How to straighten the front fender on a VAZ 2107. Do-it-yourself car fender repair: final straightening. Various Paintless Dent Removal Methods

No matter how disappointing it may be, no one can do without at least a little "shaking" the car in their entire life. Even professionals. Snow that has fallen from the cornice, not quite sober citizens who have chosen the "swallow" as a fulcrum, and their own carelessness or oversight leave traces on the lacquered sides of the car. Most of them have the character of slight bruises, even the paint does not peel off.

Therefore, most owners are in no hurry to rush to the nearest tinsmith. In addition, the insignificance of the damage encourages you to try to fix it yourself. So let's talk about this and talk about how to fix a dent on a car with your own hands.

repair of dents on a car without painting is possible;
it is impossible to implement it at all without investment;
you will have to show angelic patience and devilish perseverance;
if you succeed, you can open your own workshop, you will not be left without clients.

Attachments

At the stage of development, repairing dents will require not too rich tools:

straightening hammer with shock-absorbing strikers - 300 rubles;
gas burner Super-Ego R355 - 1.8 thousand rubles;
portable gas bottle- 100 rubles;
trowel from of stainless steel- 300 rubles;
thermo glue gun- 600 rubles.

In general, your expenses will not exceed 3.5 thousand rubles. If luck inspires, then buy an inexpensive (3 thousand rubles) set of the Force F-911M1 straightening tool. You can work with him at a professional level and repair not only your car.

Material features

Despite the fact that body straighteners are popularly called "tinsmiths", they work with much thicker material. The thickness of the body parts of the Soviet automobile industry was 0.9-1 mm, now the cunning Chinese put 0.55 mm, but on average it is 0.75 mm.

Dent on the rear left fender

In order for such material to bend by hand, it must be heated at least a little. The paintwork can withstand temperatures up to 80 and even 90 degrees. To do this, you need a torch from the list of tools. She is better construction hair dryer the fact that it is possible to localize the heating zone. However, before starting work, it is necessary to practice on some car skeleton in order to determine the optimal flame intensity and exposure time. Otherwise, straightening dents with your own hands will smoothly flow into a full-fledged body repair or buying a new car.

A dent on a car is a place where the metal has undergone not only deformation, but also changed its thickness. In the deepest place, it is smaller than at the edges. Sometimes so much that material ruptures. Such cases are treated, but considerable professionalism is required. When correcting a defect, you need to drive the metal from the edges to the center. As a result, the direction of action of the deformation force will be reversed and the dent will be straightened.

Repair methods

Straightening of dents is carried out not only from the inside, although this seems to be the most logical, but also from the outside. The technology of work largely depends on the area of damage and the place of its localization.

Clapperboards

So in the language of tinsmiths, dents are called large (up to several square decimeters) area, but small - no more than a centimeter - depth, with very gentle slopes. The metal in them has hardly changed its thickness. They got their name for the fact that the straightening is accompanied by cotton.

The larger the cracker area, the easier it is to straighten. Although this is explained simply: the lever arm of the force - the distance from the center of the dent to the edge - is large. Sometimes it is enough to press on it from the inside with your palm. Often it is a combined damage - at the point of application of the force, it remains a hall, which will have to be straightened separately.

Removing small dents with an impact tool

Correcting from the inside is the main way to repair these dents. To do this, you will have to remove the lining of the ceiling or doors - the usual place where firecrackers appear. If it does not lend itself to hand force, then, for example, a volleyball camera can be placed in the technological cavity. A pressure of a couple of atmospheres will be sufficient. Small - you can still touch the metal with your hand - warming up the edges will help speed up the process.

Medium dents

It is often not possible to straighten such a "byaka" from the inside. For example, on a wing, the cavity of which is covered with spars. If it is flat, without a break, then heating and punching through a trowel will help to fix it.

Heat the edges of the dent so that your hand is perceptibly hot to the touch.
Apply a trowel, making sure that it lies flat and does not touch any part of the body relief with an edge. Tap the dent in a circle with light strokes.
Constantly control the heating (cooling is no better than overheating), do not rush anywhere and persistently hammer the dent along a tapering spiral.

Construction trowel successfully replaces professional tool"Ironer". Its handle is raised up, does not crawl over the body and does not interfere with the work with a hammer. It should be made of stainless steel, and the lower, working, surface is polished so as not to scratch the paint. During work, it is necessary to constantly wipe it with a cloth so that not the slightest speck remains on it, and degrease it.

Removing dents on the body surface by heating

There is a very exotic straightening method based on the use of temperature contrast. For him, you need to prepare a can of carbon dioxide. These are used, for example, to charge airsoft weapons.

Heat the dent in a spiral from the edges to the center.
Spray carbon dioxide in the same way.
As the frost disappears, the metal straightens, obeying the deformation forces arising from the temperature drop.

Aligning in this way may damage paintwork... And the older the car, the higher the likelihood of such an outcome.

Small dents

Damage up to 1.5 centimeters in diameter can only be pulled out, since they are smaller than the hammer head and it is very problematic to aim at the edge. Pulling is carried out with a bolt or screw with a cap suitable diameter and shapes. It needs to be processed to the desired configuration on emery and polished.

The place of work is degreased (like the head of the bolt), after which a glue gun is used. After gluing the bolt, add more glue on top, for reliability. The thread will help secure a kind of handle or eyelet. For them, the bolt stretches to all that there is a henchman. But this must be done carefully, in several steps, constantly monitoring the process. The bolt may come off. Remove the adhesive with solvent and repeat the process until the dent is healed.

For such work, there is a professional tool - a set of polymer fungi of different sizes and forms, as well as strikers. The striker consists of two parts - similar to a bolt, bottom the fungus engaging in the figured ledge, and a massive sleeve sliding along the stem. At the end of the striker there is a wide ledge on which the bushing hits.

Car body straightening is an art. The master must feel the material and be able to predict its behavior. The skill is formed by long hours of training. However, don't be afraid to put your hands on it. The value of owning such a skill will pay off all the costs. We advise you to first train on some car skeleton.

Passenger cars often get into "accidents", and the result is a crumpled or scratched wing. This damage is minor, however, but still spoils the view. You can self-align such dents on the fender of a car, saving money, or you can still use the services of professionals to remove dents without painting.

Consider a common, common case of damage to the front wing. Naturally, the damage is different. Sometimes the wing is so crumpled that even a qualified straightener will not undertake to restore it. A different outcome is more likely: we were moving along a forest road, and touched a bush or tree with a corner. Perhaps they did not react to the “feet” that caught fire in front and touched the stopped car. The impact is not strong, the headlights are intact, but there is a "bubble" on the wing, which means that the exterior is spoiled. There is an urgent need to align such dents. You will need a jack, preferably a hydraulic jack. Such a jack must be supplemented with extension cords: hydraulic - with sections of round (thick-walled) pipe, rack and pinion - square (should fit tightly on the toothed rack). The square pipe is also replaced with two corners, which are welded into a square.

The length of the long extension is 45 centimeters. A straightening hammer, strong support, strong wooden blocks are required.

Before removing the front wheel from the damaged wing, install a support-stand under the jack socket. Then we place a suitable block under the wing, with the headlamp recess (right on the stiffener). We put another block on the front shield of the body part. We put the square extension pipe on the toothed rack of our jack. Now we mount the jack with an extension cord between the bars.

We work with a jack, we need to expand the wing from the inside, trying to stretch the fold. Instantly, the bubble will shrink. A small dent will remain on the lower flange. Next, we perform a clean straightening.

We apply support from the front side, and we will adjust the dent by tapping the hammer on the inside of the component. In this case, we do not loosen the jack. If a small bubble remains at the relief line of the wing, then it is worth wrap it with a rag wooden lath and lay it under the line, hitting the rail with a hammer.

Do not loosen the jack after straightening. It happens that, due to the residual elasticity, this wing is deformed again. After finishing work, we pull up the jack two clicks, as if overpowering this elasticity caused as a result of deformation. The jack can now be removed.

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Repair of dents on the front fenders of a car. Complex damages with fractures of the stiffening ribs. To repair such damage, the removal of the wheel arch liners is required. Dents of this nature need to be able to start doing correctly, especially with aluminum.

Dent on the front left fender with a jammed stiffener. To repair the dent on the wing, it was necessary to remove the fender liner. In time, the repair without painting took about 4 hours. The cost of this wing repair was 8000r.

Audi car Fender dent

Dent on the rear left fender. To repair the dent on the fender, it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner and wheel. The time taken to remove the dent without painting is about 4 hours. The cost of straightening the dent on the wing was 7,000 rubles

Dent on the front left fender with a jammed stiffener. To repair the dent without painting, it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. It took about 4 hours to repair the wing without painting. The cost of removing a dent from the wing was 7,500 rubles

Dent in the rear left fender, not a simple dent with a crease. For repairs, it was necessary to remove the lantern. The time taken to remove the dent is about 5 hours. The cost of repairing a dent on the wing was 8,000 rubles.

Dent on the rear right wing with a strong crease in the stiffener. To repair the wing without painting, it was necessary to remove the lantern. It took about 4 hours to repair the wing. The cost of repairing the wing without painting was 6,000 rubles.

Dent on the front right wing with damage to the stiffener. For repairs it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. The time taken to straighten the dent on the wing is about 2 hours. The cost of removing a dent without painting is 4000 rubles

Volvo car Fender dent

Dent on the rear right fender. It took about 40 minutes to repair the dent without painting. The cost of removing a dent on the wing was 2,000 rubles

Mercedes-Benz car Dent on the fender

There is a dent in the front left fender, the difficulty is that it is also made of aluminum. For repairs it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. It took about 4 hours to repair the dent without painting. The cost of repairing a wing without painting is 7500 rubles

Dent on the front right fender, stiffening rib. For repairs it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. Time spent on repairs was about 5 hours. The cost of repairing a dent without painting is 7500 rubles

Volkswagen car dent on the fender

Dent on the front right wing with damage to the stiffener. Not easy damage due to complex design wing. Time spent on repairs was about 3.5 hours. For the repair, it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner and molding (fender liner) The cost of repairing a dent is 7,000 rubles

Toyota Car Fender Dent

Dent on the front left fender with damage to the stiffener. To fix the dent, it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. Time spent on repairing the dent 2.5 hours. The cost of work is 6000 rubles

Toyota Car Fender Dent

Dent on the rear right fender with damage to the ribs. To repair the dent, it was necessary to disassemble the entire wing sidewall. Time spent on repairs was about 5 hours. The cost of repairing dents without painting was 10,000 rubles

Renault car Fender dent

Dent in the front right fender, sharp dent in the stiffener. For repairs it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. It took about 2.5 hours to repair this dent. The cost of removing a dent is 3500 rubles

Mazda car Dent on the fender

Dent on the front right fender. Chopped dent with damaged stiffener. To repair the dent on the wing, it was necessary to remove the fender liner. It took about 4 hours to remove this dent. The cost of repairing the damage was 9,000 rubles.

Toyota car Fender dent (side)

Dent on the right side, extensive with damage to the ribs. To remove this dent, it was necessary to remove the fender liner. It took about 5 hours to repair the dent. The cost of repairing the dent was 13,000 rubles.

Nissan car Dent on the fender

Dent on the front left fender. To repair the wing without painting, it was necessary to remove the fender liner. It took about 3 hours to remove the dent on the wing. The cost of repairing the damage was 6,500 rubles

BMW car Dent on the fender

Dent on the front right fender, stiffening rib. To repair the dent, it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. In time, the repair took about 2.5 hours. The cost of removing a dent on the wing was 4500 rubles

Dent on the front right fender, for repair it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. It took about 1 hour to repair this dent. Repair cost 4500 rubles

Ford Car Fender Dent

Dent on the rear right fender, damaged stiffener. To remove this dent, it was necessary to remove the flashlight. Time spent on repairs about 4 hours, the cost of repairs 8000 rubles

Ford Car Fender Dent

Dent on the front left fender, stiffening ribs badly damaged. For the repair, it was necessary to remove the fender liner, it took about 5 hours to repair these dents, the cost is 7000 rubles

TOYOTA Car Fender Dent

Dent on the front right wing, stiffener badly damaged. To remove this dent, it was necessary to remove the fender liner. Time spent on repairs about 3-4 hours, the cost of repairing a dent is 6500 rubles

Volkswagen car dent on the fender

Dent on the rear left fender, stiffener badly damaged. To fix the dent, it was necessary to remove the lantern and trunk lining. Time spent on repairs about 3 hours, the cost of repairs 6,000 rubles

Chevrolet Car Fender Dent

Dent in the rear right fender, not a pleasant room to renovate. To repair this dent, it was necessary to remove the flashlight. Time spent on repairs about 3 hours, the cost of repairs 4000 rubles

Hyundai car Fender dent

Dent on the rear right fender, not much metal stretch. To remove this dent, it was necessary to remove the flashlight. Time spent on repairs about 3 hours, the cost of repairs 4000 rubles

Kia Car Fender Dent

Dent on the front right fender, damaged stiffener. For repairs it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. Time was spent on removing this dent for about 2 hours, the cost of repair is 4500 rubles

Hyundai car Fender dent

Dent on the rear right fender, stiffener badly damaged. For the repair, it was necessary to remove the lantern and the luggage compartment trim. Time spent on repairs about 5 hours, the cost of work 9000 rubles

Mitsubishi car Fender dent:

Dent on the front left fender, very serious damage. For repairs it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. Time was spent on repairing this damage about 5 hours, the cost is 8000 rubles

Dent on the rear left fender, in order to get close to it it was necessary to remove the fender skin in the trunk, as well as remove the left lamp. The time was spent about 3.5 hours, the cost of removing the dent is 5000 rubles.

Chevrolet Car Fender Dent:

Dents on the front right wing (sharp), not simple. For repairs it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. The time was spent about 2 hours, the cost was 3500 rubles.

Honda Car Fender Dent:

The dent on the rear left fender was made (for painting) so that the layer of putty was minimal when painting. It was necessary to remove the wheel, wheel arch liner and drill a hole to work between the two metals. Time was spent about 3 hours, the cost of 3000 rubles.

Volkswagen car Fender dent:

Dent on the rear left fender. Difficult to repair, stiffening rib is heavily jammed. It was necessary to remove the fender liner in the trunk, as well as remove the lantern. It took about 6 hours to repair this dent, the cost is 11,000 rubles.

Dent on the rear right fender, the difficulty is that the stiffener is jammed, as well as the thickness of the metal, all the same Toyota Tundra. For the repair, it was necessary to remove the flashlight, it took about 4 hours, the cost was 7,000 rubles.

Dent on the rear right fender. The difficulty lies in the double metal, as well as near the neck of the gas tank. It was necessary to remove the bumper and lamp. Time was spent about 4 hours, the cost is 6000 rubles.

Toyota car Fender dent:

Dent on the rear right fender (arch). For repairs it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. Time was spent about 3 hours, the cost is 4500 rubles.

Volvo car Fender dent:

Dent in the rear left fender, for repair it was necessary to remove the lantern and fender liner in the trunk. The time was spent about 5 hours, the cost was 9000 rubles.

KIA car Fender dent:

Dent on the front right fender, stiffening ribs jammed. It was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner and turn signal. Time was spent about 3.5 hours, the cost is 6000 rubles.

Hyundai car Fender dent:

The dent on the rear right fender is deep enough, the stiffening rib is also affected. For repairs, it was necessary to remove the lantern and the fender liner in the trunk. Time was spent about 4.5 hours, the cost is 8000 rubles.

VAZ car Dent on the fender:

The dent on the front left fender, the hall is strong enough, the gap between the fender and the hood has decreased. For repairs it was necessary to remove the wheel arch liner. It took about 3 hours to repair the dent on the wing, the cost was 4000 rubles.

Passenger cars often get into minor "accidents", as a result - the front fender is slightly dented or scratched. The breakdown is insignificant, however, you will have to fork out to fix it in an auto workshop. But, if your car is repairable (and most of the domestic cars are just like that), then we advise you to read this article. It offers recommendations on how to level out dents on the fender of a car on your own, and, therefore, save money.

Surely, most of you have sufficient theoretical background: they know exactly what tools and materials are required to repair a car, and how to use them. Some people probably even managed to get everything they needed in advance.

It's time to put theoretical knowledge into practice. For example, let's take a simple and fairly common case - damage to the front wing. Of course, the damage is different. Sometimes the wing is so crumpled and torn that even the most skilled straightener will not undertake to restore it. But this is not often the case.

A different situation is much more likely: we were driving along a winding forest road, gape slightly - and touched a tree with a corner. Or they didn’t react to the “feet” that caught fire in front, and slightly touched the already stopped car. It seems to be not a blow, the ifars are intact, but there is a "bubble" on the wing, the exterior of the car is spoiled, and the traffic inspectors look sideways suspiciously: oh, for an hour, did you hit someone?

We urgently need to align the dents on the front fender of the car. What is needed for this?

First of all, the jack. It would be nice hydraulic. But you can do with rack and pinion, most domestic cars are still equipped with such.

Secondly, the jack must be supplemented with extension cords. different lengths: hydraulic - thick-walled sections round pipe, rack and pinion - square, tightly put on a toothed rack. If not found square tube, it can be replaced with two corners welded into a square. The longest extension should be between 40 and 45 cm.

Thirdly, you need a straightening hammer and massive support, as well as a few pieces of good sturdy wooden blocks.

If all this is prepared, you can begin to work on leveling the dent.

First of all, remove the front wheel from the damaged fender. We will install a reliable support-stand under the jack of the jack. Next, we will place one suitable block under the wing on a stiffening rib next to the recess for the headlight, and place another block on the front shield of the car body, that is, in the rear part of the wing.

We put a square extension pipe on the jack's rack (we will consider this option as more familiar), insert the jack with an extension cord between the bars and, working with the jack, as when lifting a car, we will expand the wing from the inside, stretching the fold. The "bubble" will begin to shrink before our eyes. And, probably, it will disappear altogether, only a small dent on the lower flange of the wing will remain. Here, in fact, comes the time for clean straightening.

Applying support from the front side, you should adjust this dent by lightly tapping the hammer from the inside of the wing, without loosening the jack. Probably, a small bubble will remain at the decorative embossed wing line. But here, too, there is a way out. You need to wrap a wooden strip with a rag, lay it exactly under the line and, hitting the strip with a hammer, remove the bulge.

In general, there is a special conversation about the embossed line, since no matter what part of the car body you straighten, this line will almost certainly be present there.

The fact is that in addition to decorative function it is also a stiffener. And if this edge falls into the straightening area, it is necessary to start with it. First you need to edit, knock out the stiffener, bring the line to its original state, and only then straighten other sections. This, if I may say so, is one of overriding rules, a little "professional secret" that affects the quality of work.

Do not loosen the jack as soon as you have finished straightening - it happens that due to the residual elasticity, the wing can deform again. To avoid this, after finishing work, pull up the jack one or two more clicks, as if overpowering this very elasticity caused by deformation. Now you can remove the jack.

Often without any apparent reasons on the wing of a car suddenly forms what the professionals call in their own jargon a "lampoon": with the naked eye you can see that the wing is slightly swollen outward. If you lightly press on such a bubble with your hand, it disappears, sometimes emitting a characteristic click (hence the "flap"). But any push on the bumps, and the wing is blown out again as before. And so it can go on indefinitely.

Such a defect appears from the fact that the wing is stretched out, a certain amount of excess metal has formed: it has nowhere to go, only to bend into a bubble.

Well, if the reason is clear, then it becomes clear how to treat. Remove excess metal, "stretch" the wing. And here again the decorative line comes to the rescue. You need to wrap the rail with a rag, rest it against the decorative line, and knock it down with a hammer so that the wing is pulled under the line. Often a couple of blows are enough to get rid of the "flapper", the wing is again tight and stiff. This is the second "professional secret".

In the cases of wing deformation discussed above, straightening, as such, was almost never used: we extended the wing with a jack, and only slightly tweaked the metal on the ribs.

But there are times when the blow falls not on the end of the car wing, but on the side - as a result, a dent is formed on the wing. Such a dent cannot be leveled by pulling alone. In this case, you will have to resort to straightening.

The essence of straightening is that the "excess" metal formed from stretching is evenly dispersed in a large number of small tubercles. The more such bumps there are, and the smaller they are, the better your work is.

But, before proceeding with straightening, one more rule must be taken into account: straightening must start from the edges of the dent, and move along a tapering spiral, ending in the center. This is the third "secret".

First you need to determine where the dent ends. To do this, we will draw a criss-cross over it with a straightening file, and then we will begin to knock out the wing from the inside, using a hammer with a sharp beak and supports. When the straightening blade begins to remove the top of the bumps over the entire surface, that is, when the metal is stretched, you can begin to level the dent. Here we will use a straightening "saw". And do not be afraid that it will make holes in the metal: the thickness of the car wing is 0.5-0.6 mm, it is very difficult to remove such a layer.

And after the canvas, the surface should be leveled with putty or solder. This could be the end. But after all, for any straightening work, and even more so, using different kinds lifting devices, safety issues are of particular importance .

Remember:

A lifted vehicle must not be left on a jack - it is imperative to use reliable, sturdy stands. When installing the jack for extracting body parts, you must make sure that it rests firmly and does not slip.

Use only a tool that is in good condition. Pay particular attention to the hammer tip. The handle of the hammer must be smooth, free from burrs, cracks or chips.

When working, wear gloves or, at least, thread gloves.

That's all. Now you can fix and align minor defects and dents on the front fender of your car. It will help you save family budget, and at the same time grow in your own eyes, and in the eyes of your loved ones and friends. Better yet, don't get into accidents, even small ones.

Damage to the car body, even if it is insignificant, is a rather unpleasant phenomenon, many car owners are familiar with it firsthand. An unsuccessful approach to the arch or drive into the courtyard, an obstacle that has arisen from nowhere in the form of a pillar, curb or garage door - all this is not a complete list of the causes of damage to a car. Removing a dent on a car fender is a laborious process that requires careful preparation and utmost concentration.

Possible variations

First, you need to soberly assess the degree of complexity of the damage. Most often, if the dent is small, most car owners can correct it. For more serious defects, it is better to go to a car repair shop.

If the choice fell in favor independent decision problems, you should decide on the algorithm of actions in which it will not be so difficult to straighten the dent. There are repair methods, which include:

puttying;
the ability to squeeze out a dent;
a way in which you can pull out the damage.

Method 1: putty

After you have chosen a way to remove a dent, you need to prepare certain tools:

automotive epoxy putty;
construction trowel;
dye to match the surface to be treated;
timber or sandpaper;
foam sponge, spray, brush or roller;
a piece of coarse fabric.

Procedure

The surface of the damage is fine-grained. sandpaper or a diamond bar. In the process, you should grab a small area of the entire coating near the dent. This will ensure better adhesion of the putty to the metal. The procedure should be carried out as carefully and carefully as possible in order to completely remove the previous coating from the damaged surface.

The next step is to degrease the treated surface with any reagent. Then, use a cloth to remove any remaining moisture and paint particles.

After cleaning and degreasing, an epoxy car putty is used. It must be applied to the deformed area, slightly capturing entire areas.

You should not try to do absolutely the first time. flat surface, since the dried and slightly shrunken putty after this will still be subject to sanding.

The material must be allowed to dry in accordance with the attached instructions. After complete drying with a coarse cloth, the treated area is sanded. As a result, the surface should be smooth, without inclusions and irregularities.

The final stage is the application of the dye. Depending on the skills and abilities available, you can do this with a roller, or with a brush or spray gun. Dry the painted surface using the natural drying method or, if possible, using a drying chamber.

If you cannot correct the dent in the described way, you can use the second method and try to squeeze it out.

Option 2: extrude

A pretty real way to fix the appearance of a dented car fender. In this case, other tools will be needed to work with the damage:

wooden mallet (mallet);
powerful magnet;
a piece of clean fabric;
several self-tapping screws;
pliers;
thin drill and drill.

Sequence of work

It is not possible to fully straighten the wing by straightening. The reason lies in the stretching of the metal, which does not allow the material to return to its original position. It will improve the appearance of the wing by reducing the level of the dent at least 2-3 mm below the total surface.

In order to remove the damage, it is necessary to have free access to the deformed area from all sides, in particular, from the back of the car body. Using wooden hammer, straighten the wing surface from the shallowest to the deepest place of the dent. Do not use a conventional hammer, as it can damage the surface even more.

In the process of work, on the reverse side of the surface, a wooden block... This will help prevent excessive bending of the metal in the opposite direction.

In addition, it is worth working carefully with a mallet: if you hit with a hammer on a flat area, new irregularities will appear. There are often cases when it is impossible to access back side damage. Then a number of small holes should be drilled in the deformed area and self-tapping screws should be screwed into them. After that, using pliers, you can try to pull the screws for the caps, thereby pulling out the dent.

The final stage is the treatment of the deformed surface with a primer (method 1).

Method 3: pulling

Not every car owner knows that some of the dents can be pulled out with a magnet. The main thing is to use a sufficiently powerful magnet. The essence of the method is to bring it to the edge of the damaged area and pull it towards you. The magnet must be sequentially moved over the deformed surface until it gradually flattens out.

This method is good because it helps prevent possible damage to the paint. In cases where the paint on the leveled area is still damaged, it must be completely removed. Along the way, it is worth grabbing a few centimeters around the perimeter of the deformed surface. As a result, it remains only to putty, prime and paint the straightened area.