How to make a barrel out of wood. Making a wooden barrel with your own hands. What tools are needed to assemble barrels

There are not so many masters of cooperage today, but the tradition of pickling in tubs, or storing honey and wine in barrels, has remained in Russia to this day. It often happens that it is not possible, for one reason or another, to acquire a wooden container. Then you can make an oak barrel with your own hands. Although this is not the easiest task, however, if you set yourself a clear goal and follow all the features of the technology, you can make quite a decent wooden container for storing food and drinks. We will talk about how to make an oak barrel with our own hands below.

We make blanks

To make a container, you first need to select the material. If you want to store beekeeping products inside, pay attention to linden or aspen raw materials, plane trees. Not bad honey is stored in barrels made of poplar, alder wood, willow. An oak barrel is ideal for salting, fermenting or urinating.

If you figured out the raw materials, you should choose an old tree. His Bottom part best suited for rivets. During harvesting, be sure to make sure that the block is a couple of centimeters more sizes future barrel. This stock is needed for grinding the edges.

The wood must be raw. Initially, the churak splits into 2 parts. For this, an ax and a small log are used, which are gently tapped on the butt. Each half splits in two again. It is necessary to ensure that the separation takes place radially. With each subsequent half, they do the same - the number of blanks depends on the diameter of the oak barrel. It is easy to prepare raw materials with your own hands, the main thing is accuracy. Please note that blanks may have different width, but it's not scary.

Rivets are dried indoors, where good natural ventilation is established. The term is at least 1 month, and ideally even about 1 year. After drying, it is processed with special tools. It could be:

• plow;
• sherhebel;
• plane.

Process first outside riveting, be sure to check the degree of curvature according to a pre-prepared template. It can be cut from a thin board, attaching it to finished product. After all the outer surfaces are processed, you can proceed to the side ones. They are also aligned according to the template, and after processing they are jointed. The inner surface of the riveting is processed with a planer.

Rings

To make hoops, you can use both steel and wood. The latter option is less durable, so it is better to immediately give preference to metal. For hoops, hot-rolled steel in the form of a strip is used. Its width is about 3-5 cm, and its thickness: 0.16-0.2 cm.

It is necessary to make a measurement at the place where the hoop will be stretched. After that, the width of the strip, doubled, is added to a certain value. With the help of a hammer, the workpiece is bent, acquiring the shape of a ring, and then holes are punched or drilled in it and rivets are placed. The material for them is mild steel wire, the diameter of which is 0.4-0.5 cm. One of the inner edges of the hoop must be flared with the pointed end of the hammer.

Assembly subtleties

Making oak barrels with your own hands requires patience. However, the result is worth the time and effort. So, in order to assemble a barrel for pickling, you need Smooth surface. To get a finished barrel you need:

The skeleton does not need to be boiled or steamed before tightening, although there are those who insist on this. There are times when the workpiece can crack. Then experienced coopers replace it with a new one.

Bottom

To make the bottom, first you need to cut a groove from the bottom at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge of the end, its dimensions can be 0.4-0.5 mm. To do this, a special tool is used - the morning. On both sides of the groove with a chisel, you need to make a chamfer from 0.1 to 0.2 cm.

The bottom is made of a special shield. It is assembled using metal studs or nails. Having drawn a circle, you need to step back from it by 1-1.5 cm and cut out the future bottom. After that, it is cleaned with a sherhebel, and chamfers are cut along the edges. As a result, the thickness of the rivets there will be no more than 0.3 cm. This ensures complete tightness of the structure.

To make a fitting, loosen the bottom hoop and insert the bottom. It is inserted into the groove from one side, and from the second side it is adjusted with a hammer to the desired level with light taps. With a tight move, you can loosen the hoop a little more, if it goes too freely, it is better to tighten the hoop.

Next, the hoop is stuffed again, and the barrel is checked for leaks. To do this, pour some water into it. If there is a leak between the rivets, you need to slightly reduce the bottom. If water seeps through the bottom or groove, you will have to disassemble the frame and narrow one of the blanks.

Before installing the second bottom, make a hole in it, the diameter of which is not more than 3 cm and make a cork under it. Correct dimensions it is assumed that it will be slightly more than the thickness of the bottom and will not protrude beyond the skeleton. That's the whole sequence that you need to follow in order to make an oak barrel with your own hands.

Repair

Can it be repaired old barrel? Of course. If in her long time an alcoholic drink was stored, it is worth disassembling the structure and removing a layer about 2 mm thick from the tree. Further, the drink does not penetrate into the wood. After that, the rivets are processed and assembled again.

You can repair an oak barrel with your own hands, even if it leaks. To do this, you need to repeat the same manipulations as in the manufacture of containers - adjust the hoops.

This is what it is, cooperage business. Craft wooden crafts You can do it yourself, but it takes a lot of time and effort. But is it worth spending them, if today you can order via the Internet, on the website of the Russian Bondar company?

You can buy almost everything today. But it’s quite difficult to find a wooden barrel, really high-quality, solid, and besides, it is expensive. There is another point that not everyone takes into account - it is not a fact that a finished barrel is suitable for a specific purpose. The reason is the mismatch of the wood species. The conclusion is unequivocal - to make a barrel yourself. And if you deal in detail with the drawings, the nuances of the work, then it will not turn out to be any complicated and impossible with your own hands.

Pine

• Elasticity, bending flexibility.
• Easily processed with household tools.

• When the temperature rises, it will resin abundantly.
• The characteristic smell that will always be present inside the barrel.

Recommendation - such wooden barrels are not used for storing food or fermenting anything.

Juniper

Strength combined with ease of processing.

Big weight.

Recommendation - it is advisable to use for the manufacture of relatively small barrels for transportation (storage) of bulk materials.

Oak

• It bends beautifully after the tree is well steamed.
• Contains fungicides that protect the structural elements of the barrel from decay.

High material cost. To make a high-quality barrel, you will have to use a tree that is at least 80-100 years old.

Recommendation - if the barrel is intended for storage (sourdough) of products, aging of wines, and so on, then oak boards should be chosen.

According to the reviews of those who have already made a wooden barrel with their own hands, you can also use such types of wood as linden, ash, aspen, mulberry.

The choice of material is a rather specific issue. If a barrel is needed to store stocks of wine (cognac, vodka), sourdough (salting) cucumbers, watermelons, apples, and so on, then the best tree for her - oak. This is undeniable. But to spend such wood (taking into account its cost) to make a container with your own hands, in which it is supposed to store cement, sand, bulk products is hardly correct. Other breeds, “simpler”, are quite suitable for these purposes.

The procedure for calculating the parameters of the barrel

Based on its purpose and installation location, the dimensions and design features. In everyday life there is some confusion with the concepts. In principle, both the tub and the barrel are containers of a certain capacity, which are assembled manually from separate boards (staves, fret in the language of professionals). The difference is only in the geometry. The pictures explain everything well.

What is defined for the drawing:

• Barrel height
• Diameters (large and small).
• The angle of the staves and their number.

To simplify calculations, it is advisable to focus on typical data that are used by specialists when drawing up barrel drawings.

Do-it-yourself wooden barrel - instructions

The algorithm of actions is clear from the figures, which show the main stages of work.

But separate explanations will not be superfluous.

Rivets can be made from logs or boards. The first option is preferable, although its implementation by hand is much more difficult. The fact is that only the lower part of the tree trunk goes to the manufacture of the barrel, from the roots to the branches. You will have to chop logs (decks) on your own.

What is the feature?

• The ax blade must hit exactly in the center, along the diametral line. This will somewhat facilitate the work and will allow you to get high-quality riveting in more(based on each deck).

• Boards are obtained by splitting, hewing chocks. Wood processing is always carried out along the fibers, and not across.

It is advisable to prepare at least 2 - 3 spare rivets. Why, it will become clear when describing the assembly order of the barrel.

To facilitate bending, the rivets are given an irregular geometry. The thickness at the ends of each board should exceed the same parameter in the center by about 0.2. That is, if it is supposed to assemble a barrel from 10 mm boards with your own hands, then they are hewn with the expectation that their thickness in the lower and upper parts of the container is at least 12.

Drying staves

AT various sources terms are indicated, which are measured in months, or even years (up to 3). At this point, it is necessary to focus on local conditions, the initial and its porosity. Artificial acceleration recommendations this process when doing work with your own hands are not entirely useful. Without practice, it is difficult to determine the optimal mode for the same electric / cabinet and the exposure time of the tree in it. Experienced craftsmen it is advised to wait until the moisture evaporates from the wood naturally.

It is only necessary to place it in a room with proper conditions - a temperature of at least +20 ºС and good ventilation. You may have to wait 2 or 3 years. But a high-quality barrel "in one day" is not made, and this must be understood.

If we are talking about a container for household purposes, then you can dry the staves even on the stove. But in any case, a barrel is not assembled from raw boards. After a couple of weeks (due to shrinkage of the wood), gaps will begin to appear between them. Checked.

hoops

Finding metal strips, drilling holes for rivets with your own hands is easy. The only thing you should pay attention to is that it is better to take tool steel. It is characterized by increased strength (tensile strength) and corrosion resistance. If it is pre-treated with drying oil and then burned (for example, with a blowtorch), you will get hoops of the original light brown shade.

Bottom

It is cut out of a shield, which is assembled by hand from pre-prepared boards. Moreover, using a different technology than frets (sidewalls). Their thickness does not change along the length. To ensure the tightness of the joints, the ends are milled, that is, the assembly is carried out according to the well-known tenon-groove principle. In some cases, special (sealing) rails are installed.

Barrel assembly

The sequence of actions is shown in this figure.

This work is not done alone; 2 - 3 assistants will definitely be needed. Rivets are placed along the lower hoop with maximum fit. If a last board not "included", it should be slightly hewn to size. This is where spares come in handy, since the first, or even the second time, with your own hands, without experience, it may not be possible to adjust the “finishing” board. A little bust with a sample of wood, and it will have to be rejected.

The penultimate stage - installation of the bottom

And only after that, the hoops are coupled (if they are adjustable) or their final landing in place (in height).

The last step is wood sanding.

How to process the barrel from the outside is decided on the spot (“skin” and manually, grinder / machine), But after that it is desirable to cover the container beeswax(thin layer). This will provide additional protection for the tree from external factors.

Good luck, beginner coopers!

Especially for the "Craftsmen" website, Vladimir Nikolayevich shares the "technology" of making a 25-liter oak barrel. How to make a barrel with your own hands, read on.

How to make a barrel with your own hands

In the spring he brought material from the forest, sawed it and covered it with sawdust in the basement, leaving it to dry for the whole summer. Soon we will get a wooden barrel with our own hands.

Churbak d 50 and 42 cm high neatly split into four parts. From quarters, gently tapping with a mallet on the butt (photo 1), pricked 14 blanks for riveting about 3 cm thick.

Important! The split should go radially so that the tree does not crack in the future.

I processed the blanks with homemade chips from all sides, making them slightly concave (photo 2). With a plane, he gave smoothness, at the same time narrowing at the top and bottom (photo 3).

For the uniformity of barrels of this volume, the master made two mounting hoops (the middle one is slightly larger in diameter). There is also the main hoop-shutter, which Vladimir Nikolayevich guards like the apple of his eye: he does not knock on it with a sledgehammer and constantly checks its evenness with a pattern drawn on the table, because the future “face” of the barrel depends on the correctness of the circle.

On the shutter, with the help of special brackets made of hoop iron, I fixed three rivets (photo 4). Continued assembling the barrel, filling the perimeter. Tapping lightly on the hoop with a hammer, he reined it in and checked whether the edges of the rivets were tightly connected. Then planted the middle hoop (photo 5).

On a note. To achieve contact of the rivets along the entire length of the side surface, it is necessary to accurately calculate the width and number of blanks, based on the future diameter of the homemade barrel.

After fitting two hoops, the rest of the barrel must be pulled off. Coopers have a special device for this - a yoke. But Vladimir Nikolaevich came up with his own original structure for the screed, which he calls the "goat".

I fixed a winch on a U-shaped metal frame turned upside down. I installed the barrel on the crossbar, wrapped the loose part of the frame with a cable and carefully pulled it off with a winch (photo 6).

Planted the third hoop on a wooden barrel (photo 7) and removed it from the "goat".

With a special chisel with a groove at the flat end, lowered the hoop as low as possible (photo 8).

I put the barrel to dry in the barn, heating the stove for no more than two hours a day.

After two weeks he continued to work. I cleaned the outer sides of the product with a straight plow. I made 4 hoops in two sizes from black-painted steel. Having removed the middle mounting hoop, I stuffed a permanent one at a distance of 10 cm from the bottom. Trimmed both sides of the barrel with an electric jigsaw (photo 9). Installed two more hoops at the top. Leveled the inner surface with shaped plows (photo 10). With a homemade chime with four teeth from a saw, I cut a groove 5-6 mm deep around the circumference (photo 11).

I assembled the bottom for the barrel from prepared boards, connecting with stainless galvanized nails without hats.

To prevent leakage, I first laid the ends with strips of cattail (photo 12)- the first secret received from the craftsman Belov.

I calculated the size of the bottom as follows: I marked a point near the groove and, having estimated the approximate radius of the barrel in this place, set aside six radii along the groove with a compass, as if inscribing a hexagon in a circle. To start and finish exactly at the intended point, it is necessary to select the radius empirically. The size thus obtained was indicated by a compass on a shield assembled from boards (photo 13). I cut it with a circular cutter along the intended circle (photo 14).

Clutching the bottom in a homemade stavlyug (vice for weight support), he made a bevel around the entire perimeter with a plow (photo 15).

He put a soaked white bun in the groove - the second secret from Belov against a leak.

Do-it-yourself oak barrels video

Preparation of moonshine and alcohol for personal use
absolutely legal!

After the demise of the USSR, the new government stopped the fight against moonshine. Criminal liability and fines were abolished, and the article on the prohibition of the production of alcohol-containing products at home was removed from the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation. To this day, there is not a single law that prohibits you and me from engaging in our favorite hobby - making alcohol at home. This is evidenced by the Federal Law of July 8, 1999 No. 143-FZ “On Administrative Responsibility legal entities(organizations) and individual entrepreneurs for offenses in the field of production and circulation of ethyl alcohol, alcoholic and alcohol-containing products" (Collection of Legislation Russian Federation, 1999, N 28, art. 3476).

Excerpt from the Federal Law of the Russian Federation:

"The effect of this Federal Law does not apply to the activities of citizens (individuals) who do not produce products containing ethyl alcohol for the purpose of marketing."

Moonshine in other countries:

In Kazakhstan in accordance with the Code of the Republic of Kazakhstan On Administrative Offenses dated January 30, 2001 N 155, the following liability is provided. So, according to article 335 “Manufacture and sale alcoholic beverages home-made" illegal production for the purpose of selling moonshine, chacha, mulberry vodka, mash and other alcoholic beverages, as well as the sale of these alcoholic beverages entails a fine in the amount of thirty monthly calculation indices with confiscation of alcoholic beverages, apparatus, raw materials and equipment for their manufacture, and also received from their sale of money and other valuables. However, the law does not prohibit the preparation of alcohol for personal purposes.

In Ukraine and Belarus things are different. Articles No. 176 and No. 177 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of Ukraine provide for the imposition of fines in the amount of three to ten tax-free minimum wages for the manufacture and storage of moonshine without the purpose of sale, for the storage without the purpose of sale of apparatus * for its production.

Article 12.43 repeats this information practically word for word. “Production or purchase of strong alcoholic beverages (moonshine), semi-finished products for their production (mash), storage of devices for their production” in the Code of the Republic of Belarus on Administrative Offenses. Item number 1 says: "Manufacturing individuals strong alcoholic beverages (moonshine), semi-finished products for their manufacture (mash), as well as storage of devices * used for their manufacture - entails a warning or a fine in the amount of up to five basic units with confiscation of these drinks, semi-finished products and devices.

*Purchase moonshine stills for home use it is still possible, since their second purpose is the distillation of water and the production of components for natural cosmetics and perfumes.

AT household barrels and tubs are in great demand. They keep lard, hams in brine, ferment cabbage, and soak apples. What can be compared, for example, with a cucumber or a tomato pickled in an oak tub. And in a linden barrel, honey, apple juice are perfectly stored, you can cook kvass in it.

Finally, oak tub with a lemon or bay tree and today will not spoil the interior of even a city apartment. Just do not find these simple products either in the store or on the market. But you can do it yourself, and although this task is not an easy one, an amateur master is quite capable of coping with it. We will tell you more about the manufacture of these containers needed in the economy.

First of all, you need to choose wood. Oak and pine are unsuitable for storing honey - honey darkens in an oak barrel, and smells of resin in a pine barrel. Linden, aspen, and plane trees are needed here. Poplar, willow, alder will also come down. But for salting, pickling or urinating better than oak there is nothing - such a barrel will serve for more than a decade. For other needs, you can use blackberry, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch and even birch.

This table will help you determine the size.

External dimensions				Width and Depth morning groove	Distance from morning groove to the end
Drum capacity (l)	Height	Bundle Diameter	in my head
15	345	295	262	3*3	20
25	420	340	300	3*3	20
50	535	420	370	3*3	25
100	670	515	450	3*3	25
120	770	525	460	3*3	25

Note that here are the dimensions of the barrels, in order to choose the size for the tub, the height and diameter of the head remains the same. The diameter in the bunch of the barrel (diameter in the center) for the tub goes into the diameter of the bottom.

When the size is selected, you need to proceed to the blanks of the riveting, the main component of the barrel.

I will give the dimensions of the rivets

Capacity	Riveting width	Riveting thickness	bottom thickness	Bottom width
15	40-90	14	16	50 or more
25	40-90	14	16	50 or more
50	40-90	17	19	50 or more
100	40-100	18	19	50 or more
120	40-100	18	19	50 or more

There is another way to determine the size. The ratio of the diameter of the height of the tub or barrel should be in proportion, for example, 350:490 mm (Fig. 1-6). Increasing or decreasing the height, change the diameter of the container. The number of staves for a barrel or tub is calculated according to the formula 2 * Pi * R / W, where R is the radius of the tub in the lower section (for a barrel - in the middle); "Pi" is a constant value equal to 3.14; W - the width of the stave along the bottom of the tub (for a barrel - in the middle).

riveting

Usually, the lower part of the trunk of old trees goes to riveting, it is called “riveter”. But a lover of tinkering will choose blanks from ordinary firewood, and adapt a thin trunk to the job. It is best to make riveting from raw wood. First, the chock - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future riveting - is split in half, gently tapping the log on the butt of the ax. Each half is then again pricked into two parts, and so on, depending on the thickness of the chock, in order to ultimately obtain blanks 5-10 cm wide (for sweet clover - 15 cm) and 2.5-3 cm thick. You just need to try to split went radially - this will save the riveting in the future from cracking.

The chopped blanks are dried in a room with natural ventilation at least a month. You can use a dryer to speed up the process. The dried workpiece is processed with a plow or sherhebel and a planer.

Rivet marking.

They take a board with a width of 30 to 100 mm, draw a line along the outside that divides the riveting in half in width (for a barrel - and in length). For the taper of the tub (barrel), it is necessary to withstand the taper of the riveting. It should be around 8°. This means that if the width of the stave along the bottom of the tub (for a barrel - in the middle) is 100 mm, at the top it should be 8 mm narrower, i.e. 92 mm. And for the barrel at the top and bottom - 92 mm. Fix the set width of the riveting with dots and connect 4 dots with lines - for the tub and 6 dots - for the barrel. These are the riveting planing guidelines that determine the taper. The plane of the segment of the radius on the template, its direction towards the center, together with the already defined slope of the future skeleton of the barrel or tub, is the main requirement for the fit of the riveting one to the other during the sharpening. Therefore, it is necessary to apply the template to the riveting being processed more often, checking the correct planing.

Riveting point.

They plan the riveting with a planer, adjusting each in thickness, and immediately determine which side will be the outer one. To do this, half-fill the left and right side rivets in length. With a sherhebel with an oval base and a piece of iron, they plan the inner side cleanly according to the template (Fig. 5) and draw a line with a pencil dividing the riveting in half along the length. Then, with a hacksaw, the riveting is trimmed along the length and the dividing line is drawn to the ends. A semi-joiner (joiner) cleans the outer and sides of the riveting, the correct planing is checked with a template. It is made along the radius of the assembly hoop for the tub, and for the barrel - along the radius of the umbilical hoop, made in advance. For a barrel with two bottoms, two pairs of hoops are prepared - 2 stubborn and 2 umbilical. The umbilical hoop should pass freely through the stubborn one.

Especially carefully check the correctness of the sharpening of the sides of the riveting for the barrel. The template should fit snugly against the side and outer sides of the riveting, especially at the center line dividing the riveting in half along the length. When planing the sides, deviations from the line drawn to the end and dividing the riveting in half should not be allowed.

HOOPS

Barrel hoops are made of wood or steel. Wooden ones are not so strong, and a hundred times more hassle, so it is better to use steel ones. Hot-rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm is used for hoops.

Having measured the barrel at the place where the hoop was stretched, we add to this size the double width of the strip. With hammer blows, we bend the workpiece into a ring, punch or drill holes and put rivets made of soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm. One inner edge of the hoop must be flared with blows of the pointed end of the hammer on a massive steel stand.

Assembly of the skeleton

The assembly hoop is made in the middle between the top and bottom of the tub and a slightly smaller diameter along the middle line for the barrel. On clean wooden base we put the assembly hoop vertically and put 5-6 rivets inside it with the outer side to the hoop. On the left, we clamp one of the rivets and the hoop with a clamp. Slightly lift the hoop and spread out the rest of the rivets. Let's get a hoop. The snug fit of the rivets along the entire length (for tubs) and up to the midline (for barrels) is the result of careful sharpening and fitting. In the same way, we assemble the frame for the barrel, but here we remove the assembly hoop after fitting the umbilical hoop, then we fill the stubborn hoop. If it is stuffed tightly, then we planed correctly and correctly selected the last riveting in width.

The skeleton for the barrel from the middle or a little higher fan-shaped diverges to its bottom. To tighten the loose end of the skeleton, apply various ways and fixtures. The end of a steel stranded cable with a diameter of 6-8 mm is fixed to a fixed support. The second end is thrown onto a hot, steamed loose skeleton, put on a ledge of a pillar made of earth, dug in for this purpose, or a raised part of a log and using the “stranglehold” method, using a strong stake inserted into a loop at the end of the cable, “twist” the skeleton and put it on umbilical, and then stubborn hoops.

After assembly, the skeleton is checked for horizontality and verticality, and all hoops are finally upset. On the inside of the core (barrels or tubs), the sag is cleaned, and at the ends of the rivets they are cut off by 1/3 of the thickness (Fig. 6) and by 2-3 mm with outer side. The outer and inner sides of the skeleton are finally cleaned, the upper and lower ends are half-filled.

Installation of donets in the skeleton

To do this, several operations are performed.

1. Cutting the morning groove in the core. Morning cut the morning groove. The width of the teeth of the steel nail file is 4-5 mm. Therefore, the width of the cut morning groove should be 4-5 mm. The nail file protrudes 4-5 mm from the half-fallen bar of the morning time. Therefore, the depth of the groove of the chime cannot be different. The thickness of the chime bar is a limiter for the distance of the chime cutting from the top of the core to the bottom of the plank on which the bar is fixed, i.e. 40-50 mm. Be sure to chamfer 2-3 mm or a little more on both sides of the morning groove to prevent chipping of the core riveting when inserting bottoms and compressing them with hoops.

2. Assembly of bottom shields. They are assembled on wooden or metal (preferably stainless) studs-nails from 4-6 boards. The extreme ones are called shoals, the middle ones are called grouse. Planks are taken on the jambs, which is wider. We don't yet know the diameter of the circle from the chime. We take a compass (Fig. 4) and spread its legs approximately by the radius of the intended circle along the chime, insert the tip of the compass leg into the chime, divide the circle into 6 parts. Thus, we will determine the radius of the circle by chimes for the bottom. We transfer the resulting radius to bottom shield and draw a circle.

3. Sawing out the bottoms. With a bow saw or a circular saw, we cut out the required bottom. In this case, the cut should be along the inner side of the line drawn by the circle when the saw teeth are set 2-2.5 mm. This will reduce the diameter of the circle by 0.14 constant "Pi".

4. Donets processing. We put the bottom circle on the workbench, sharpen it cleanly on both sides, draw a line 3-4 mm thick at the end with a pencil in the middle. With a radius 25-30 mm smaller than the bottom, draw a circle on its two sides. These are the borders of chamfering. With a chisel or planer, we will chamfer and make sure that the morning groove and chamfered bottoms fit well. The line at the end of the bottom is left untouched.

5. Installation of Donets. This is the final operation for the manufacture of a barrel or tub. We turn the skeleton of the tub with the wide part up and slightly knock down the lower hoop. We knock down the stubborn at the barrel, and shift the umbilical hoop so that the bottom enters the morning groove. To keep the bottom in a horizontal position when installed in chimes, a nylon thread will help to cross-tie the bottom. When the bottom is set in chimes, the thread is pulled out, the hoops are put in place. Before installing the second bottom into the skeleton of the keg, two tongue and groove holes are drilled in it opposite each other and 4-5 cm from the inner side of the skeleton with a diameter of 20-25 mm, into which tongues are placed so that debris does not get into the keg. After installing the second bottom, the hoops are finally stuffed and make sure that the bottoms are crimped with rivets in the chimes, and the rivets between themselves would not have gaps. If the rivets were planed correctly and the slope was maintained according to the pattern, the bottom was carefully sawn out, the product will be of high quality.

Take note.

1. Before assembling the frames for a barrel or tub, the finished riveting must be dried to 17-20% moisture.

2. Soak oak, spruce, pine, aspen barrels and tubs for at least 10 days, changing the water after 2-3 days. At the same time, jambs and planks are soaked, which press the fermented products.

3. To reduce the formation of mold on the rivets of the tub, when stored in the cellar, it is wiped with a swab dipped in calcined vegetable oil. Jambs, planks and pressure stone are washed once a week with hot water.

HOW LONG DOES A BARREL SERVE

First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember what to paint jellied containers oil paint should not be: it clogs the pores, which contributes to the decay of wood. It is desirable to paint the hoops - they will not rust. For decorative purposes, a barrel, a flower tub can be treated with mordants.

The brown color of the oak is given by slaked lime mixed with a 25% ammonia solution. A black solution of iron sulphate or an infusion for 5-6 days of iron filings in vinegar.

A decoction of the rhizomes of the fragrant woodruff (Asperula odo-rata) turns linden and aspen red. Red-brown color gives a decoction of onion skins, brown - a decoction of fruit walnut. These dyes are brighter than chemical ones and more stable.

It must be remembered that wood is better preserved with a constant humidity regime. Therefore, dry products must always be kept dry, and bulk products filled with liquid. Both of them cannot be placed directly on the ground. It is better to substitute a brick or plank under the barrel than to subsequently get rid of the rot by cutting the chimes.

But no matter how long a hand-made barrel serves, all this time it will be a pleasant reminder to the owner of difficulties overcome in comprehending the secrets of the ancient craft of the cooper.

© finished barrels in the photo