If you want to make furniture from solid wood, you will have to take certain measures against the deformation of the wood. The list of such measures includes the selection of the appropriate compound.

There are many known ways to connect wood parts so that they do not deform in the future. One of the most effective is dovetail". The parts are connected to each other in such a way that it is almost impossible to separate them even without glue. Each thorn is clamped as if by pincers. The strength of the connection is also enhanced by the fact that the area of ​​the docking areas covered with glue is much larger here than with simple connection without spikes.

In addition, the dovetail connection can rightfully be called decorative, since it can decorate any piece of furniture, of course, provided that all the teeth are carefully and accurately made. And this will require painstaking work with a saw and a chisel. All grooves and tenons must fit exactly together, and all fugues must be equally narrow. From the first time, such accuracy is hardly achievable: first try to gain experience by processing simple boards.

Many interesting and beautiful examples dovetail joints can be seen when looking at old furniture.

The dovetail joint is considered the most beautiful, reliable and durable corner joint. It is not so easy to execute it.

It's done like this

• Cut out pieces of the desired length from the boards.
• On one of the boards, mark the spikes and grooves.
• Transfer the markings from the front face of the board to the end and then to the back face.
• Saw grooves and cut them out with a chisel.
• Using the processed board, mark the location of the spikes and grooves on the other board.
• After processing the second board, try to connect both parts without glue and make corrections if necessary.
• Apply glue to the joints, carefully connect the parts and hold under pressure until the glue seizes.

WHAT YOU NEED

materials:

Wood blanks Clay.

Instruments:

• Ruler.
• Pencil.
• Awl or knife.
• Square.
• Tenon saw.
• Chisels of suitable width.
• Workbench.
• Clamps.
• A hammer.
• Mallet.

The shape of the grooves and spikes in the dovetail joint

The beauty of this box is in the harmony of the material and the corresponding design using the dovetail connection.

Homemade device for marking the bevels of the spikes: cut from a thin sheet metal template and shape it accordingly.

Carry out marking on the part having the required length

Before marking the spikes and grooves, measure the part again, it must have the required width. If the width of the part is larger than it should be, then the markup will be inaccurate and, therefore, unusable.

Choose the right chisel

Before you start grooving, check if the chisel you have is the right size for them. Take care of the right tool in advance if you plan to make very thin spikes. Chisels come in various widths - from 4 to 40 mm.

Bar protects against damage

When connecting parts, never hit the mallet directly on the wood. Use a small piece of wood to protect parts from damage.

Learn more about the dovetail connection

When making a dovetail connection, both parts are interlocked by means of a special form of teeth. The upright board shown in the figure has spikes that fit into the grooves of the horizontal board. Connecting and disconnecting boards is possible only with the vertical position of the spikes. Otherwise, this cannot be done.

The boards connected in this way react differently to the load. And therefore, it does not matter in which part to make grooves, and in which - spikes.

In drawers, spikes are made on the front board, grooves - in the side walls. Since the greatest load on the box occurs when it is pulled out, the connection will be most durable precisely with this arrangement of the spikes.

AT hinged shelf the maximum load falls on parts located horizontally.

They should be with spikes that will hold curly grooves in vertically arranged parts.

The spikes should always be narrower than the grooves, especially when using dense and durable wood. The peculiarity of the dovetail connection is also that the spikes and grooves in finished product look different than when unfolded - as shown in the figure below.

Uniform distribution

Products with dovetail corner joints are not covered with colored varnish. Therefore, the location of the spikes and grooves must be uniform across the entire width of the parts. Extreme spikes may be slightly wider or narrower. All other spikes and grooves should be the same.

Drawing dovetail spikes

Experienced carpenters can distribute the teeth almost by hand. For those who are just starting to master this method of connecting parts, we recommend using a ruler.

For boards up to 15 cm wide, mark out, for example, four spikes and three grooves or five spikes and four grooves. For boards up to 20 cm wide - five spikes and four grooves or six spikes and five grooves. An approximate distribution scheme is as follows: the ratio of the average thickness of the spike to the average width of the groove is 1:2.

You can very accurately draw the spikes and their bevels according to the scheme shown in the figures on the right.

Other ways of division are also possible. You can choose, for example, a smaller width of the spikes. In the so-called English connection, the spikes are very narrow, and the grooves are wide. However, in any case, the studs should not be beveled too large to damage the narrow parts of the grooves.

Mark the thickness of the board on the part parallel to the end edge, then half the thickness and then draw a line, the distance to which from the end is equal to the thickness of the board multiplied by three. To now accurately distribute the four spikes and three grooves, put marks on the oblique auxiliary line, the distance between which is a multiple of 10. Then transfer this division to the marking lines.

Here the dashed lines show the middle lines of the grooves: the points of their intersection with the auxiliary line at a distance of "triple thickness" of the board are very important for the final marking.

From the points of intersection of the middle lines of the grooves with the auxiliary line, draw lines through the points on the marking line "half the thickness of the board". Thus, the spikes and grooves will be marked very accurately.

markup

So, you have outlined the spikes and grooves on the front face of the board. Now you need to transfer the markup to the end side.

To do this, you need a square and a well-sharpened pencil, awl or knife. Depending on the type of wood, it may be useful or even necessary to cover the front side of the board with chalk: the markings will be more visible on a white background. From the end side, the markings are transferred to the back of the board.

The marking will be more accurate if the part is fixed on the workbench.

Marking from symmetrical elements on one part should be applied simultaneously so that, for example, the contours of the spikes in the corners drawer matched.

With the help of a sharpened pencil (or awl) and a square, the marking lines are transferred from the front face to the end side of the board.

Grooving

After transferring the marking lines, before starting to saw, shade the drop-out areas on the details - the gaps between the spikes. So you will not confuse anything with further sawing and working with a chisel.

The part should be fixed on the workbench in such a way that the marking lines of the bevels parallel to each other take a strictly vertical position. This is easy to do if you use a square. Saw first the grooves on one side, then turn the part over, fasten and saw through the remaining bevels of the grooves.

Install the saw not on the marking line, but close to it on a drop-down section of wood. From time to time check on both sides of the board if the saw is pointing correctly or if the cut needs to be corrected.

The grooves are cut with a chisel, which should be held strictly vertically. In this case, the position of the part itself must be horizontal. It is possible to more accurately guide the chisel when another board is fixed on top of the part, the edge of which runs along the line marking the depth of the grooves.

First, the grooves are processed with a chisel on one side of the part. After a recess is made about half the thickness of the board, it is turned over and the grooves are completed. This method avoids cracking of the board, as well as inaccuracies in the processing of grooves.

Fasten the part so that the marking lines take a strictly vertical position. Check with a square.

To cut grooves with a chisel, fix the parts on the workbench in a horizontal position. The part must not slide.

Saw only the sides with the same slope. Turn over and fasten the part, saw through the other sides.

spikes

Experienced carpenters prefer to first make the spikes and then cut the grooves on another board. But you can do otherwise: use the ready-made grooves in order to mark spikes on another board.

At the same time, it is also recommended to cover the end side with chalk so that marking lines are not lost on a dark tree with catchy growth rings. The latter must be carried out very accurately. To do this, you can use an awl or a well-honed pencil.

Transferring layout lines

Marking lines from the end side of the board to the front and back plates are transferred strictly at right angles to the end. The length of the spikes depends on the thickness of the grooved board. These marking lines must also be perfectly accurate. It is better to mark the depth of the spikes not with the help of a board with grooves, but by measuring the length of the spikes from the end edge, transfer these dimensions to the corresponding part. Otherwise, the spikes may turn out to be longer than necessary.

When marking, keep in mind that the front should be the most better side boards, and the marking lines at the same time - as accurate as possible.

It is advisable to cover the dark wood details with chalk so that the marking lines are better visible and the cuts are more accurate.

Compound

To cut spikes on the part, it is again firmly clamped, but this time the position of the board should be strictly vertical, as well as cuts, which are only slightly beveled in a different plane, either to the left or to the right.

Fixing the part

To make cuts, the saw is also installed close to the marking line on the drop-down section of wood. After completing the work with a saw, the part is fixed on a workbench in a horizontal position and proceed to the processing of intermediate sections between the spikes with a chisel. As with grooving, the notch is made only half the thickness of the board, after which the part is turned over and the “extra” wood is removed from the opposite side. At the same time, you can slightly correct the cuts if there is more than necessary between the marking lines of the wood.

First, make cuts only on the left or right side spikes, then parallel cuts on the other side.

After removing the intermediate sections between the spikes, carefully trim the saw cuts with a chisel.

Gluing

Before applying glue evenly and in a thin layer to all the spikes and grooves, lightly treat the surfaces to be glued sandpaper without rounding the edges. Then try to connect the parts without glue. You will immediately see if they fit together and what else can be corrected.

Carefully connect the boards so that the spikes and grooves do not split. Keep in mind that the grooves are especially often cracked.

Glue is applied evenly in a thin layer over the entire surface of the spike. To do this, use the spout of a bottle of glue or a thin brush.

Joiner's putty will help correct mistakes

With an ideal connection of spikes and grooves, all butt joints are very tight, without the slightest gaps, which not only reduce the strength of the connection, but also spoil appearance products. However, even experienced carpenters do not always achieve perfect results, so you should not be upset if the connection needs to be corrected in some places.

Proceed as follows. Spread a plastic sheet under the workbench and shake off the sawdust on it. From sawdust and glue, make carpentry putty, which will help you make small adjustments.

Although ready-made carpentry putties and mastics of various colors are available for sale, home-made putty has advantages: it contains sawdust of wood, with which you this moment work, that is, this putty will fully match the tone of your product.

Putty should be applied carefully, in small portions, filling only the cracks. It is better to compact and level the puttied areas with a chisel blade, and not with a spatula.

Homemade putty will help you correct errors such as chipped chips or inaccuracies in work.

Sample

Wedge-shaped spikes can be quickly and accurately cut with a milling cutter if using special nozzle for drill and template. In this case, during one working operation, two parts are processed at once, installed with a slight offset to each other. True, their connection is noticeably different from the dovetail connection made traditional way, because at machining details, all the spikes and grooves are the same. For this reason, the connection cannot be considered decorative, but it is also beautiful in its own way, and most importantly, very reliable. The distribution of tenons and grooves in such a connection depends on the size of the cutter used.

You can quickly cut the spikes with a cutter if you use a special nozzle for a drill.

This is how a template is used for cutting spikes with a cutter fixed in a drill.

Wooden construction does not lose its relevance in our time: houses and baths from economy to luxury class are still being built from logs. Technology has come a long way and some of the old ways of making the material have been improved, but the basics have remained unchanged: the cutting of the beam and log joints is still carried out manually according to different patterns. Next, consider the dovetail cutting method.

Description

The dovetail joint is a kind of paw cutting. The lock is the intersection of the cut ends of the log located perpendicular to each other, the upper and lower faces of which are beveled to the inside. The shape of one element resembles the outlines of a dovetail, hence the name.

The slope of the horizontal planes gives the castle greater strength than a straight cutting "in the paw". When the tree shrinks, the volume of protruding elements decreases, which, by increasing the friction force, strengthen the fastening.

Advantages and disadvantages of felling dovetail

Dovetail beam fastening has a number of advantages:

• Absence of corner protrusions as in the case of traditional cutting "into the bowl". This allows you to make the sheathing of logs and timber freely around the entire perimeter of the walls.
• Compared to the paw-cut, the dovetail has a strong lock and the design is stable and reliable.
• The joint is sealed.
• The cabin is neat in appearance compared to other types of castle building.
• Installation of logs and castle does not require special skills, algorithms and additional fasteners.
• Relative cost-effectiveness of excavation work, which reduces construction costs.

What you should pay attention to when choosing a dovetail:

• The complexity of creating a cutting for an inexperienced person. This is the type of joint that should be prepared by a professional.
• Inclined joints favor the passage of rainwater into the castle, which can cause putrefactive processes in the wood and the development of mold. To avoid this phenomenon, the corners are carefully waterproofed and sheathed from the outside.
• Corners are bridges of cold. To keep the room warm, they must be lined with heat-insulating materials.

The disadvantages of dovetail felling are easily eliminated at the stage construction works, therefore, one should not be afraid of them and refuse a log house of this type.

How to make a felling

It is difficult to make a dovetail with your own hands if an inexperienced craftsman does the work. The process may take long time, therefore, in the absence of skills, it is better to entrust the manufacture to a specialist with experience. This is relevant if we are talking about clumsy felling, which, by the way, is practically not used in the modern world. She has a number of disadvantages:

• Low operating speed;
• Inaccurate sizing.

Modern construction tools allow processing timber and logs with much more high speed than a normal hand axe.

A dovetail template for timber is an auxiliary device that copies and marks the outline of the future product, along which excess fragments are cut with a chainsaw. In the video, the master talks about how to use this intricate item:

A template of another type of ShBL-E also allows you to get the perfect dovetail contour without special skills.

Craftsmen with a sharp eye are able to create locks without the use of templates, with only an electric or chainsaw in their hands.

Before proceeding with the direct cutting, you need to decide on the contour of the log and the dimensions of the constituent elements of the castle. For different diameters of the log and the size of the sides of the beam, individual, but averaged dimensions of the "dovetail" are accepted (see the picture and table below).

Leg connection dimensions
Diameter, mm	Dimensions, mm
	a	b	c	f
140	99	74	49	25
160	113	85	57	28
180	127	95	64	32
200	141	106	71	35
220	156	117	78	39
240	170	127	85	42
260	184	138	92	46
280	198	148	99	49
300	212	159	106	53
320	226	170	113	57
340	240	180	120	60
360	255	191	127	64

The given values ​​are regulated by GOST 30974-2002, on the basis of which locks are currently being manufactured according to the specified type. The parameters are selected in such a way that the most hermetic, warm and strong lock connection is obtained.

If there is no metal template at hand, as in the video, you can use traditional method and make the "tail" the old fashioned way:

• 1) Put the dimensions of the outer contour on the end of the log or on the paper from which the projection will be taken;
• 2) Make a cut to the desired depth;
• 3) Remove the sloping part on the ledge.

(Scheme layout options for the template).

Features of the connection of the timber "in the dovetail"

The finished log house, before being sent for assembly, is treated with antiseptics and allowed to dry well. This measure will reduce the risk of unpleasant consequences when the wood gets wet.

The laying itself does not require any special measures: the logs are assembled according to the scheme by numbers. The advantage of a log house with a similar connection lies in the tight fit of the constituent elements. Logs need to be stacked on top of each other, additionally using waterproofing pads, for example, roofing material or its modern polymer counterparts. Sealing of seams with flax-jute is done only after construction is completed.

It is possible to lay logs in parallel with the sealing material. In this case, it is necessary to choose well-prepared wooden blanks so that new cracks and gaps do not open during shrinkage and shrinkage, which will still have to be isolated.

After some time, the logs dry out, including the castle, which is a bridge of cold. To prevent the heat from escaping from the premises, it is important to caulk the resulting gaps in time and insulate the corners with any modern heaters. For interior decoration professionals recommend using mineral wool slabs.

It is advisable to carefully waterproof the outer corners with sheathing, for example, siding. It protects the beam from any negative impacts environment.

Timber is a traditional building material for suburban buildings. Its thermal insulation properties, strength, reliability and beautiful appearance attract private owners to design various buildings from this material. At the same time, it is very important to know and strictly follow the timber assembly technology. One of the most successful is the dovetail connection. Therefore, it is this installation technology during construction that will be considered further. wooden houses from a log house.

Features of the dovetail connection

1. During the operation of the house, each of the building elements can be under different levels load, therefore, before construction, it is necessary to correctly calculate the load for each wall, so that then the connecting tenons and grooves are designed in the correct place.
2. Connecting elements in ready-made look a little different than in the deployed, that is, on the bars, which have not yet been connected to each other.
3. The connecting spikes should be slightly narrower than the grooves, especially if strong and dense wood was used in the construction of the house.
4. Due to the different inclination of the paw, the protection of the structure from the wind is significantly increased.
5. If the design of the docking sections is thought out correctly, then with the angular connection of the bars, you can do without additional fasteners (thorns and vertical stakes).

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Dovetail beam fastening technology

To dock the log house in this way, you may need the following tools:

The dovetail connection is the most reliable and beautiful corner connection.

• saw with small teeth;
• thickness gauge;
• a set of chisels;
• plane;
• square;
• small.

The dovetail frame is considered the most durable and beautiful corner connection. In it, all parts are fixed to each other quite firmly, often without requiring adhesive solution. Each structural element firmly clamps the spikes of the adjacent element, preventing its displacement in the horizontal and vertical directions.

Adjacent structural parts are interlocked using a special form of teeth. The spikes are driven into the grooves horizontal bar, while it is possible to separate adjacent elements only when the spikes are placed vertically, in other positions it is impossible to do this. In practice, fastening a beam into a dovetail is used where additional wood processing is not planned, so it should be as even as possible over the entire width: the dimensions of all spikes and grooves should be the same.

At the first stage, using a planer, one side of the timber is processed until flat surface. This side will be internal for construction. The opposite side is finished only near the edges at a distance equal to two log diameters. The remaining sides are also processed, only for a length of 1.5 diameters.

Then on construction site 2 first elements are placed opposite each other, and 2 more are laid on them. The angle formed in this way is adjusted to the level, and the log house is marked from both ends. In this case, the nest for planting a log house should not be more than half of its thickness. The next element is placed in the recess made, and so on.

For a more secure fit, you can drill a vertical hole in the dovetail leg and drive a spike into it. In this case, the diameter of the hole should be approximately 35 mm, and the spike should be a slightly larger diameter. This procedure should be carried out in a checkerboard pattern so that the upper spike does not accidentally fall into the lower one when laying.

Modern carpentry experts consider fastening logs without residue dovetails as a practical and reliable option. corner connection. The T-shaped installation of the beams is almost the same as the fastening with the main tenon, only the tenon has the shape of a trapezoid, which provides an ultra-reliable docking at the corners of the house. A properly cut dovetail gives the entire structure of the house additional strength, durability, and keeps it from natural deformations for wood.

Heritage of wooden architecture

Wood in Russia traditional construction material. Built in harsh climatic conditions, the hut, the tower made of larch, cedar, pine had high strength, were warm, dry, comfortable. applied different technique a log house, a corner, an oblo, a bowl, these techniques involved a slight removal of the ends of the logs around the corners of the house, which protected them from freezing even in the most severe frosts. Siberians considered such a technique to be predominant, but there were other methods of construction. These techniques are without residue, that is, without taking the log to the surface of the wall:

• in the paw, the logs were hemmed at the ends, one log seemed to be embedded in the paw of the other;
• into a boar, while depressions were made in the log in the upper and lower parts;
• into a dovetail, when a spike was cut in the idea of ​​a trapezoid in one log and a nest under it in another.

These are just the basic techniques of the log house, along with many other crown joints that the masters in Russia were famous for. Installation was carried out without fasteners or dowels, wooden pins were used, additionally fastening the corners together. Buildings for household purposes were sometimes erected using a pillar method, when vertically standing logs were tied together.

Important! Connections without residue, including dovetail, were used for cold outbuildings. Modern ways insulation allows the use of a dovetail mount, which is attractive because it makes the building frame especially stable and strong.

The main trick of fastening the dovetail is that the trapezoidal spike jams the ends of the logs, which are pressed down by the weight of the entire structure. Without any fasteners, they do not diverge, do not disperse.

Advantages and disadvantages of fastening

The dovetail mounting technology is complex. Not everyone can cut down the spikes of a trapezoid; skills in working with wood and carpentry tools are required. But everything might have been a wish.

Dovetail as a way to connect crowns has the following advantages:

• saving wood, this method is considered low-waste;
• extra meters usable area, fastening without residue increases the length of the wall by 10-12%;
• the possibility of any exterior finish, thanks to smooth corners;
• high reliability of the lock connection;
• savings on fasteners;
• additional protection against swelling of logs, the connection angle prevents water from entering the castle;
• nice appearance.

The main argument in favor of this method of fastening can be centennial houses and buildings, which are not difficult to find in the Russian outback.

The dovetail method, in fact, is a reworked mount in the paw, they also say oblique paw, emphasizing its traditional character.

Important! The dovetail refers to the cold joints of logs in the corners, so immediately prepare the insulation. pay attention to acrylic sealants suitable for sealing, insulation. Choose environmentally friendly heaters, easy to install, jute fabric, for example.

However, there are drawbacks to this method as well. These include:

• cracking of wood under the influence of temperature changes, however, this disadvantage is inherent in all types of compounds;
• the possibility of fungus, mold at the joints, appropriate wood processing, high-quality waterproofing is required;
• the difficulty of cutting out the thorns of the trapezium.

Cutting a spike without making mistakes is really difficult. It is required to observe a length of 40 mm per dowel, patience is required. Masters advise to prepare a prototype of a trapezoid spike, according to which to make log blanks for subsequent laying. The prototype is applied to the log, outlined, then cut out with a hammer and chisel. You won’t be able to work with a saw right away, you can ruin the material.

Important! Invite professional carpenters, if only to look at their work, then go to self-construction walls with dovetail fastening.

Technology features

The dovetail fastening technology complies with GOST 30974-2002. It is mainly used to connect low-rise buildings from timber, less often from logs. The connection has the following types:

• using a key, which is hammered into trapezoidal grooves;
• spike fastening;
• groove fastening.

The most common fastening in the groove. It is used for both external and internal walls. This is best method when assembling a structure from a living, undried tree with a diameter of 260-320mm. If you use logs of a smaller diameter, then a spike may break off, for beams of a larger diameter, other problems associated with a large weight are typical, over time, the spikes can be squeezed out to the surface.

Before laying the logs are prepared. On one, a spike is cut out, on the other, it is cut, a recess for the first log with a spike. They start with the first crown, or as it is also called salary. It is laid on a waterproofing layer, the horizontal is corrected using wedges, since the foundation surface is not always perfectly flat.

The installation of the first and second crowns, as well as all subsequent ones, takes place in pairs, first two logs opposite to each other are laid, then two perpendicular ones. If the connection is loose, the material is removed, the cut is adjusted in the corners.

Important! Before proceeding with the construction of a house or other serious structure, test the technology on something small, a doghouse, for example. After the technology is mastered, feel free to proceed to the main construction.

And to see if the technology is reliable, look at its other applications in weapons, such as furniture assembly.

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STUD JOINTS "DOVEL TAIL"

The dovetail stud joints are not only visually attractive, but also very durable. The ability to properly cut such spikes is a sign of skill that comes with experience.

When assembling furniture, fasteners are now widely used - screws, dowels, various ties. However spike connections, including those on dovetail spikes, do not finally give up their positions. They are quite reliable and at the same time beautiful. On such connections, for example, the side walls of cabinet furniture with covers can be fastened. Breaking a dovetail joint by stretching is not easy. Therefore, it is often used in the manufacture of drawers. But we should not forget that the dovetail connection is resistant to such a load in only one direction.

Chipboard parts are not suitable for dovetail joints: this material is too loose. In one way or another, plywood, boards or furniture panels are suitable here.

Dovetail spike shape

If you look at the connection from above, you can clearly see that the "dovetails" are fan-shaped spikes at the end of one of the parts. The sides of the spikes are bevelled inward with a slope ranging from 1:5 - for "rough", but strong connections used when rallying softwood parts and furniture panels, up to 1:8 - for hardwood parts. The connection on the latter looks more attractive. And you need to know that with a smaller slope, the connection under load can disperse, and with a larger one, the spikes can collapse.

In the finished connection, the “teeth” that engage with the spikes are clearly visible. The slope of the spikes must exactly match the slope of the "teeth".

There should always be "teeth" (and not halves of spikes) in the connection along the edges -

this prevents buckling of the connected parts.

Another factor that affects the appearance of joints is the distance between the dovetails. In principle, the following rule applies: the wider the dovetails (thorns) or the greater the distance between them, the better. However, there is a limit to everything, besides, products come in different sizes (for example, a chest and a box), and one should not forget about the strength of the connection.

Marking spikes

The preparation of parts begins with trimming (their thickness does not have to match), and then mark
the position of the spikes and "teeth". It is better for a novice master to give a small (1-2 mm) allowance in length.

Malka is used for marking. To adjust it to the slope angle of the spikes, for example 1:6, draw two mutually perpendicular lines on paper and divide them into six from the intersection point equal parts. Connect the sixth mark on one line with the first mark on the other. The slope of the resulting diagonal will be 1:6. According to this sketch, Malka is exposed.

At both edges, parts with spikes outline the width of the extreme "teeth" and draw lines through these points parallel to the edges. Next to the detail diagonally
impose a tape measure or ruler and turn it until the size between the lines is divided without a trace by the desired number of spikes. These points are marked on the diagonal, and then, using a thickness gauge, they are transferred to the end of the part. As a result of these simple constructions, the positions of the centers of the gaps between the spikes are determined.

On both sides of the centers found, lay off the same segment (in our example, 3 mm). The distance between the ends of the segments will be equal to the minimum gap between the spikes. From these points, with the help of a bevel, finally, the spikes themselves are marked. The height of the spikes is marked with a thickness gauge placed on a thick

the tire of the part with “teeth”. Marking is done on both sides of the part.

If the part has a length allowance, it should be taken into account when marking. In this case, the length of the spikes will be slightly longer than required. Later, when the parts are connected, the excess is removed with an end planer.

When marking up, all parts with spikes are marked with some conventional signs to avoid confusion.

thorn cutting

For cutting spikes and “teeth”, special tenon saws are used. When using a conventional fine-toothed saw for ripping it will need to be further prepared, in particular, to reduce the tooth spread (especially if the saw is new). To do this, the saw blade is placed with its entire surface on the touchstone and one or two times it is easily passed over it. The same is repeated, turning the canvas over to the other side.

When cutting dovetail spikes, the part is clamped in a vise. If there are two such parts (for example, the side walls of a drawer), the spikes can be cut into both at once.

Start cutting along the marking lines by tilting the saw back and at the same time guiding it with your thumbnail. When the cutting line is "caught", the saw is leveled and work continues until the part is sawn to the full height of the tenon (to the horizontal mark). Under no circumstances should this label be crossed.

Now you can remove the material between the notches that form the tenons. This operation is performed with a chisel. Having selected wood on one side up to half the thickness of the part, it is turned over and processed in the same way on the other side.

Next, proceed to cutting the "teeth". The part with “teeth” is clamped in a vise, the part with sawn spikes is placed on the end and fixed. Then the saw is inserted into the cuts and the end part of the part with “teeth” is cut. Finally, the “teeth” are cut in the same way as the “dovetails”. And in this case, sawing should not be done along the marked line, but in such a way that the teeth of the saw lightly touch it from the outside. In conclusion, the material between the "teeth" is removed with a chisel.

Before connecting the parts, it is necessary to eliminate possible irregularities and carefully bevel the inner edge on both sides of each tenon (especially on the outer ones). This will facilitate the operation of connecting parts, and in the finished product such a bevel will not be noticeable.

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