Fastening a bar to the wall: Tips and recommendations. How to corner the timing? Brous mount to concrete horizontally

Wooden lags are necessarily needed to provide natural ventilation of the underground space and better conservation of heat in the premises. Thanks to the use of Lag, the flooring will be able to live much longer. However, among people who do not have greater experience in construction business, you can often hear the question whether it is necessary to fix the lags for the concrete floor? The experienced masters know that for truly durable flooring, which does not change under its geometry, and for the long service, it is necessary to correctly fix the lags on any supporting structure, including on a concrete tie.

Now, when it is clear whether it is necessary to mount the lags for the concrete floor, it is worth noting that this task is not relieved, does not require special skills and knowledge, and therefore, on the shoulder of any home master.

• Materials and tools
  • Fastening elements
  • Tips for choosing Lag
  • Instruments
• Methods of installation Lag on concrete floor
  • Mounting lag on a metal corner
  • Mounting Lag to the concrete poles
• Step by step instructions for fastening Lag to concrete with your own hands
• Step between lagami

Materials and tools

Fastening elements

The question of how to fasten the lags to the concrete floor, has different answers: for this, simple or adjustable designs can be used. In the latter, special screws are applied, screwing up which, lags can be aligned. In addition, the selection of fasteners and fastening methods depends on which lags are used.

Most often used the fastening of the lag to the concrete floor with anchors with metal or screws with dowels from polypropylene, the dimensions of which are selected depending on the section of the selected bar for the lag.

The choice between anchor nails or self-drawing is due to the following:

• Cheaper, of course, selflessness, but the anchors are more reliable. In the practice of fastening with the help of self-sufficiency almost always enough.
• The advantage of the anchors is that in addition to fixing the bars, they tightly pressed the lags to the base. It becomes especially important when the finish coating is rather heavy and regularly exposed to mechanical effects - it must be considered, choosing a way to fix the lags to the concrete floor.

With modern technologies, the lags under the wooden floor could not be fixed at all, however, such a solution would increase the likelihood of skewing the floor covering or shifting lags from the initial place. Therefore, in relation to the attachment of the lag, it is best to rely on the old methods, more than once proven by time.

However, the fastening may not help if there will be a poor-quality or inappropriate sections of lumber or irregular fasteners for work.

When lags are selected for concrete floor, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• species of wood;
• timber variety;
• length and section;
• cost.

For considerations of economic feasibility, it is not worth the expensive wood, because spruce, fir or pine, with proper processing, may not be less. It does not matter of particular importance and the appearance of the material, however, you need to be disciplied with spiker or blackened instances from mold. Little value have the evenness of the tone and the correctness of the geometry of the lag. For this work, the varieties of B and Sun with humidity are not higher than 20%. As it is customary to work with lumber, they should be kept in a dry room for some time so that they equalize them with a humidity with the surrounding atmosphere.

All wooden elements before attaching lags to the concrete floor, you need to be thoroughly soaked with an antiseptic.

Instruments

Since the task is to put lags on the concrete floor, then the work will have to use such instruments:

• Drill and perforator.
• Joiner's tools: Circular saw, hacksaw, planer.

In addition, it is necessary to spend money on the waterproofing, which is necessary to spread to the entire surface of the concrete. When calculating the amount of material, it is necessary to add more fuel to the field of 10-15 cm.

Methods of installation Lag on concrete floor

Methods for fastening the lag to the concrete floor are as follows to the four main options, familiar with whom, any master can choose the most suitable for itself.

This is the simplest way to fasten the lag, but, unfortunately, it is not suitable in every situation.

1. Initially, the bar need to drill holes under the diameter of a plastic dowel, and the punching hole in the concrete.
2. Then the dowels are clogged with a hammer, after which the self-tapping screws are screwed into them or dowel-nails are drunk.
3. The screw of the screw is at the same time a few centimeters should dive into the hole.

Often asked what step fixing the lags to the concrete floor to choose better? There is no hard standard here - the step may vary from 40 cm to 80 cm, on average you can safely navigate half a meter.

Such reliably lagows will be held only when there will be a small lumen between the base and the bar. It is necessary to take into account those who want to know how to properly put lags on the concrete floor.

Anchors, in contrast to the self-tapping screws, not only hardly fix lags, but also attract them to the surface of concrete. Thanks to this installation, wooden beams will hold more reliably, so most masters prefers to the anchors. In addition, this powerful fastener will restrain to a certain degree of wood deformation, especially if it is not previously dried enough. But the anchor is much more complicated from the concrete base from the concrete base, than to drive it there, so when dismantling, workers will have to spend a lot of effort.

Be that as it may, but when using anchors, the floor covering will not be removed, but it may be necessary. To avoid the latter, you need to install gaskets more often.

1. Installation of Lag on the concrete floor here begins with drilling in a bar of through holes.
2. Then, opposite each of them in concrete, retaliatory holes are made.
3. After that, an anchor bolt is inserted into both holes and is spinning with a cape or horn key. At the same time, it is important not to drag the bolt, otherwise it bends a bar, especially when there is a clearance in this place. Then, on the cleaning field there will be a deepening.

Before installing an anchor in the beam, you need to drill a deepening of the larger diameter so that the bolt head is placed there.

Anchors should be located in a step of 60-100 cm, and their lengths should be enough so that they deepen into concrete about 6 cm. The anchors with a diameter of 10 mm are most often applied. Usually one lag is held 4-5 anchors.

Video about fastening Lag to the concrete floor Anchors:

Mounting lag on a metal corner

With lags of 10 or more centimeters, it becomes uncomfortable to work. It is better to use steel corners for their attachment, which one shelf will touch the lag, and the other with a concrete base. Fixation in this case is produced: to concrete - a dowel-nail, and to the bruus - self-drawing. At the same time, the main load should be on the gaskets, and not to the fastening elements, because the corners should only fix the position of the beam.

So that the lag is better fasten with the surface, you need to use self-tapping screws, whose thread does not reach the hat.

Bashed wooden elements to a concrete base can also be used using galvanized steel corner. The installation process is as follows:

1. Attach the corner to the lage through the screws, which should deepen in the wood at least 30 mm.
2. Attach the corner to the concrete base with the help of dowels.

Video on how to fasten the lags to the concrete floor.

There is one more option, how to fix lags for the concrete floor. To do this, use a rectangular stand, which is attracted to the base four dowels. In the middle of this stand there is a hairpin, which pierces the timber.

Rotating the nut under the beam, it is possible to accurately set its height, and use the top nut to fix the element in the desired position.

It is not so difficult to install this system, it is attached to the floor of a dowel, and in the lage you will need to make a hole under the heel. From the section of lags depends the frequency of mounting supports under it, however, in any case it is not recommended to make an interval more than 1 meter. A similar embodiment of the lag to a concrete base, although it is recognized as optimal, however, due to the high cost, it was not too popular.

After fixing, the varnish floor of boards, OSB or such materials is littered on them. If the work is carried out qualitatively, the appearance of the finishing can be impeccable.

Mounting Lag to the concrete poles

Lags to concrete pillars are attached similarly. It uses the same fastener, but intended for columns.

1. In advance, the pillars need to be waterproolated by improving them with a simple bitumen or bitumen mastic. The upper scenes of the poles can be waterproolated, putting the rubberoid slices pre-cut on it.
2. Also in advance at the base of the posts and in the bar need to do holes in which to drive a dowel or anchor strut.
3. The timber is attracted to the pillar with a self-tapping screw, in which length is 2-3 times higher than the spreader width.
4. Also, the timber can be attached by special metal plates equipped with screws. To this end, they are screwed to the base of the pillars of the dowel-nails, and in the lag, the through hole is drilled, into which it will then need to insert the screw and fasten the lag to the top of the poles. Thanks to this, lag will be tightly kept.

Step by step instructions for fastening Lag to concrete with your own hands

Attach wooden lags to the concrete floor is even alone. Fastening options There are several, and below the stages of one standard methods are presented.

1. Welcome on a concrete base of waterproofing (rubberoid or a simple PVC film). The junctions between the pieces need to be fixed with a special scotch.

1. Next, you need to decompose on the floor of the lags with a definite step. This step will depend on the material from which the finishing flooring will be made: when using a 25x100 mM, lagows can be laid with an indent 70-80 cm, and for other materials, the step will need to be reduced to 40 cm.
2. If the length of the material is not enough to overlap the entire room, then the elements are permissible to stick with an iron corner or making the inscriptions that form the connection in the indigenous spike.
3. Before installing lags on a concrete floor, you need to do extreme lags that will be located near the walls. They must be laid in terms of the level, clearly aligning their height in lining under the beams of wooden planks or plywood pieces. It is more convenient to use the laser level. When extreme lags are fixed, a caprochy thread is stretched between them, which will be a reference when installing the rest of the lag.
4. To attach to the concrete floor of the bar, you need in that, and in the other to do holes. In the hole in the concrete you need to drive a dowel or steel anchor strut. Every lagua needs to be recorded at least four anchors, and the self-tapping screws need to be located 40-60 cm from each other.

1. You need to prepare in advance the alignments for Lag - Chipboard or Phaneur cut into smooth stripes. With these elements, the lag design is fixed in a flat position (pieces of plywood are simply put under lags, if you need to lift them) so that the finishing coating on it does not creak and not walked.

1. If there is a concrete base, on the contrary, convexity, then it will have to leve out a lag not to put plywood, but choosing from it from the bottom of the material using the plane.
2. When all lags are installed in their place, then between them should be placed thermal insulation, for example, fall asleep clamzit.

1. Before closing the finish coating, you should think about the laying of the necessary communications. It is also desirable to use a layer of vaporizolation.

Step between lagami

How to put lagows on a concrete floor, if different materials will be used for finishing coverage? Below is the relationship between the thickness of the floor boards and the distance between the lags:

• with a thickness of a board in 20 mm between lags, a distance of 20 cm should be;
• for a 25 mm thick boards, step 50 cm is required;
• for 25 mm - 60 cm;
• for 40 mm - 70 cm;
• for 45 mm - 80 cm;
• for 50 mm - 100 cm.

If the floor is plywood, the step between lags is determined differently:

• with plywood thickness 15-18 mm, a step of Lag 40 cm is required;
• at 22 mm - 60 cm.

How do you prefer to fix lags for the concrete floor, and why? Tell us about your opinion or experience in the comments.

The bar at one time was one of the most popular building materials that was used in construction. However, in recent times, it began to be experimenting more often as an auxiliary element, combining with the latest developments or other mounting systems.

That is why the question of how to fasten the timber with their own hands on a different surface, is very popular with beginner builders.

Types of mountage

At the moment there is a mass of various fasteners, thanks to which you can produce any connection of different elements. All of them differ in their technical specifications and applications. At the same time, the installation instructions clearly regulates their use when working with a timber is made.

Corner

In such cases, the timber is mounted into the wall in its manufacture:

• For this, the material is first treated with moisture protection impregnation, which not only protects it, but also increases adhesion.
• Next, it is installed on the masonry in the place where it is planned to be installed.
• Then continue to build the wall with the cluttered material.

It is worth noting that this method is suitable as a mounting of a bar to concrete. In this case, it is used as an additional reinforcing element. If the design of the house assumes that the walls will be built out of the plates, then a concrete belt creates a concrete belt to organize overlapping and installing.

Roof

Considering the fact that the fastening of the lag to the wall of the house from the bar is made by connecting them through a carved lock and brackets, then many builders make a mistake that you can also organize docking and on the roof. However, this design implies a completely different approach, since has its own exploitation conditions.

First of all, it should be noted that the connection type of all roof elements should be developed in accordance with the project. They must withstand heavy loads and be strong enough. Therefore, not only nails and locks are used to fix them, but also a brackets.

A typical attachment of the rafter to the skate brue is performed by means of their installation at an angle of 45 degrees and the connection using the fastening element. Quite often, when creating the roof use bolted systems that can provide enhanced reliability and quality of all nodes. However, even when they are used, it is better to strengthen the design with brackets.

Currently there are a lot of different mounting elements for the implementation of all sorts of projects of such structures. They are sold in the form of finished products, and their price is quite accessible even for people with a small income.

Tip!
In the manufacture of the roof, you should not make changes to the project.
This can lead to a weakening of the design and reduce its life.

Suspension

Quite often, when finishing, the room arises the need to fasten the bar at a short distance from the ceiling. This may be associated with different design solutions or decor elements.

It is possible to carry out such a fastening of a bar to the concrete ceiling using special suspensions. They are acquired in specialized stores in accordance with the weight of the material that they will need to bear.

The suspension is fixed on the ceiling with shock dowels, and a special fastener is mounted on the bar. Next, combine both elements and result in the necessary connection. The height of the material is regulated by the suspension system, which allows fixing at the required level.

It is believed that this molding method is not reliable, but in practice it turns out that it can withstand significant loads. However, if this material is used only as a decor, then you can make the imitation of the timber to the wall, which will create the necessary effect without risk to fall on the head.

For such elements, there are their own fixation systems that are designed for a specific product. Usually they are supplied with the material itself.

Tip!
If it is possible to avoid this method of installation, then it needs to be used.
Usually builders just migrate such bars into the wall, and the suspensions are put to strengthen or beauty.

Output

In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic. Also on the basis of the text, which is set out above, we can conclude that there is a lot of different principles. At the same time, they all have their own characteristic scope, features and durability.

Fastening a bar to the wall - not a simple question. The bar has always been popular in the construction of private houses. Currently, construction materials with new properties are increasingly appearing, technologies are developing. A combination of a bar with new building materials and installation systems sometimes causes questions - how technically will correctly perform the fastenings of a bar to different surfaces?

Fastening is required for fastening. Today there are many types of fasteners for any elements connections. Their differences are the scope and technical characteristics that regulate the permissible load on the fastening element and the fastener technology.

Corner metal fasteners have holes for fastening with self-draws, nails or dowels. Metals for corners are not exposed to oxidation and strong enough. The reserve of the strength of the corner needs to be taken at least 2, that is, the corner must withstand the weight twice as much as the weight of the element that will rely on it. At the same time, you still need to consider and calculate what kind of designs will rely on this bar.

Wooden bars are attached to the walls with different goals - to strengthen the mounted furniture on these walls, bookshelves or decorative elements of the interior, as well as household appliances. When installing door frames, for cladding outside and inside, for the visor device above the entrance door or a canopy for the veranda, you also need to make fastenings of timber to the walls. The main thing is to first need to decide on the material of this wall, and approach the aerated concrete blocks, a plasterboard facing and a brick wall, of course, will have to be completely different.

The choice of fastener method depends on the material of the wall and features of the design being created. Of course, in the context of the aerated concrete, it is not about exciting runs from a bar to walls from cellular concrete or ceramic blocks, it is impossible without a device of aropoyas or reinforcing structures, but only about the attachment of bars, for example, for crates for plasterboard.

It is also not about to mount the timber to brick and concrete walls for the device of overlapping or floors with lags from a bar, since there should be significant loads in these structures and its fastening. The design of the fastening of the bar at the same time - installation in the wall in the process of masonry or concreting, or supporting the armoomas.

The ends of the bar are additionally impregnated with flaky diffraction composition before deploying or laying into the wall and protect the layer of waterproofing material. Antiseptics on oil bases are not recommended, as they make the evaporation of moisture. The ends of wooden beams are cut under 70 degrees, so that the moisture is better evaporated. The gap between the niche wall and the beam is obligatory, thermal insulation is laid, since the beam relies on the outer wall.

When laying beams from a bar on Armopoyas, they are fixed with special anchor plates covered with anti-corrosion composition.

Corner fasteners are used to attach a bar to concrete and brick designs. Reliable and durable compound is possible when using high-quality corners from a metal that can withstand the load.

• Before installing the corner elements, the layout of the position and circuits of the bar is applied to the surface, using the measuring instruments. You can use the usual plumb and construction level, but the laser level will allow you to quickly make markup and vertically, and horizontally simultaneously.
• Then the corner elements are fixed with dowels, self-drawing, nails use for lighter structures. Fully self-tapping screws are not tightened so that you can slightly correct the position of the element.
• The bar is inserted into the corners and join them with self-draws, then tighten the mounting of the corners to the wall completely. Corner clamp fasteners, if necessary, adjusting its position exactly on the markup.

Fastening timber to concrete and brick wall

Brick should be used carefully, strictly at right angles, not "loose" drill so as not to split the brick. The split can cause squeezing of bricks. If you get into the cavity of the brick, you will have to use a dowel of anchor type, which when turning into the wall, forms a node, or a spacer dowel. Shoot a dowel carefully. Mechanical anchor for the device for fastening wooden bars to brick walls is much better than self-tapping and nails, and technologically, and by fastening strength.

For concrete, you need a drill with a perforator function and strong plastic dowels under the self-tapping screw, sometimes before the plastic dowel clogging in the wall is additionally lubricated with glue.

Fastening a bar to a wooden wall

Apply perforated fastening elements of corner type or flat. The fasteners differ in dimensions, metal thickness and coating. Nails, screws and screws are used. For large nails, the holes are predicted, especially when working with dried wood.

Fastening to a wall of aerated concrete and plasterboard

Gas blocks The material is soft, for them are suitable screws with threads for the whole length, but it is better to use anchors, mechanical or chemical. To qualitatively install an anchor with embarrassed ribs or wedge-shaped, pre-kill the hole with a diameter of a little more anchor. One of the types of anchors is great for hollow blocks and blocks from cellular concrete - foam blocks, gasoblocks, etc. The main "parts" of the anchor is a steel sleeve having ribs and a nut at the end. When the screw is screwed into the sleeve, the ribs bent and spread out, forming a "butterfly", which securely holds the anchor inside the material.

Chemical anchors are even stronger, they are suitable for all wall materials from lightweight concrete and for drywall, and for any wall materials. The principle of operation is the ability of synthetic resins deep into the pores and gripped with the base. The weak fastening link to porous blocks and plasterboard is not fasteners, but the material of the base, especially when the vertical load is the action, and the chemical anchors are helped to solve. Chemical anchor insert, applying a special pistol. In the furnace hole is extruded under pressure adhesive mass, and the fastening element is immediately inserted - the heel with thread or rod. The adhesive composition fills the pores of aerated concrete or other porous block, and after frozen, it forms a solid and reliable fastening. The effort of a chemical anchor of a brick of more than 500 kg. The time of service of chemical anchors - dozens of years, from temperature differences they are not deformed, to the aggressive media inert. The latter is very important when working with aerated concrete, which is aggressive to metals. All fasteners for aerated concrete must have an anti-corrosion coating.

For mounting the bar to aerated concrete or drywall, an anchor fastening method is the most durable, albeit cost. It all depends on the density (brand) of the aerated concrete and from the required load. For fastening the crate can be enough to apply mechanical anchors - wedge-shaped or type "spiral nails". The latter are convenient because they are mounted in a wall of aerated concrete, scoring the usual hammer. When driving, a spiral nail is screwed into the block without disturbing its porous structure.

The dowel, similar in the working position on the spokes of a semi-walled umbrella, wears the gentle name Molly and is great for fastening wooden bars to plasterboard partitions, in order to secure pictures on them, not heavy shelves or lamps. Molly is a view of a spacer anchor bolt having a sleeve with longitudinal slots, which, when tightening the threads of the inserted screw until it is completed and turns into an umbrella. The carrier's ability is excellent, but this mount has drawbacks - it is possible to remove it, only breaking the part of the partition. In addition, with "Molly" it is impossible to work in close space.

Fastening timber in roof structures

Lags from the bar are mounted with a lock connection and brackets, but for the roof this dock is unacceptable, since the roof is operated in completely different conditions. All elements of the roof (rafal system) are set according to the project and calculation, and they are fixed with special elements and bolted systems, sometimes further strengthen the brackets.

Fastening a bar on the suspension

In the interiors sometimes use decor elements for which it is required to fix the timber to the ceiling on the free suspension or imitate such a suspension. Sometimes the suspension of the bar is needed by constructive considerations. This type of attachment is performed by means of a special suspension designed for a certain load. The suspension system of this type may have an additional ability to adjust the height of the suspension of the bar.

The suspensions are attached to the ceiling of the dowels, and the second part of the mount is installed on the bar, then the elements are connected. Practice shows that such fasteners, contrary to expectations, can withstand considerable loads. But still it is better not to have a similar risk factor, and for design, imitate suspension, and the bar is fixed reliably into the wall. The suspension system in this case is set to strengthen the mount, and in design purposes, "for beauty".

The mounting of a bar to the wall cannot be called the most difficult operation conducted during construction and repair work, but it requires care and accurate compliance with all recommendations and existing rules.

Such manipulations are necessary when installing interior partitions, the installation of household appliances or the incarnation of design projects.

There are many ways to attach a wooden bar to the walls and each manipulation must be made using certain fasteners. Their choice depends on the quality of the base and the upcoming load.

Ways to perform work

Bar is used both to create a crate and furniture design, partitions

In modern construction, high-quality fastening of a wooden bar to the walls, erected from various materials, is often a necessity. Such work is performed for:

• strengthening structures;
• installation of new frames;
• facilities;
• erection of light supplies;
• assembly of designer furniture.

The timber is used to create, frame with facade or reliable fixation of furniture designs, household appliances or electronics. Qualitatively performed work make it possible to create a design capable of withstanding increased loads, decorate the room or exercise a long-time redevelopment.

Fastening options

P-shaped suspension for fastening

To perform the work efficiently use several fastening methods:

• hard;
• soft.

The simplest recognized as soft, since for its implementation it will takes special brackets made from metal on the surface of the wall and having a P-shaped form. The distance between them should not exceed 40 cm. It is necessary to securely fasten the brackets themselves, and it can already be fixed with a wooden bar.

Before choosing the fastening method, it is necessary to accurately calculate the upcoming load and clarify the features of the base.

Self-tapping screws are used in hard mount

The hard method of attachment requires the use of a variety of fasteners, choose which depending on which material is made from what material. It can be:

• dowel nails;
• bolts;
• plastic or metal dowels.

The degree of complexity of work depends on the quality of the walls, but all experts recommend to fix it with a hard way, as this will avoid further deformation of the collected frame.

In most cases, it becomes necessary to make the timing of a brick wall. It is important to know some features and nuances of the process to achieve the desired result.

Mounting order

Before mounting, make markup

The mounting of the bar to the brick wall is carried out with a hard way. To do this, the wizard will be needed:

• building level;
• drill;
• wedge-shaped anchor;
• screwdriver.

You can use the dowels of the system "quick installation", then enough level, drill, dowels and hammer. First you need to make marking on the surface of the wall, checking the vertical and horizontal level. Then it will be necessary to note on the bar itself the location of the fasteners that the frame will be mounted. The distance between them will be from 30 to 50 cm.

Now this markup should be repeated on the surface of the wall in the places of the upcoming attachment. Through holes drill in a bar, and then, apply a drilled bar to the wall, make holes in it. Then entered (driven) plastic dowels in them and screw screws or special nails are inserted for quick installation and driven by a hammer. For example of fastening a wooden board to a concrete wall, see this video:

Fastening a timber to a brick wall - the operation is not difficult, but for accurate execution requires the participation of two workers, one of which will hold the components of the design, and the second drill holes and fix the fasteners.

Wooden timber - practical building material. Low price, low heat loss, low weight and simplicity of installation of a house from a bar make this material very sought-after. However, fasten the timber on the foundation is not so simple, because the tree is not glued to the concrete and do not weld to the metal. In this article we will tell about how the timber is attached to various foundations, which pay attention and what errors are allowed.

Types of foundations for a house from a bar

Waterproofing

The lower bar, as well as the wooden woodscreen, it is necessary to protectively protect against water and dampness, but it is not always possible to use creativity or other than effective (and most often smelling) substances. If there is no possibility to treat Scarlet or lower bar with heavy fractions of oils, it is necessary to use less effective substances, and between the foundation or iron / concrete woodwork and the bar need to be laid at least 2 layers of the rubberoid. This material that falls out when the temperature drops. After all, in the morning the air temperature is growing, and the temperature of the foundation or woodwork remains unchanged. If you are using Wooden Scarlet, the waterproofing must be laid both under it and above it. It will protect the wall from dampness and prevents the appearance of mold and rot.

What kind of attachment is better

Choosing a fastening method, consider the following factors:

• humidity of timber;
• climatic conditions;
• seismic activity;
• the strength of the most frequent winds.

For fastening wet (over 16%), only the shrinkage compensators must be used to the wooden wrought-up. All other fastening methods are ineffective.

After all, the bar is high and especially natural humidity, gives a very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. For fastening a bar of high or natural moisture to a wooden painter, it is necessary to use the analogue of the shrinkage compensator, only made not from the screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same way can be used when installing a bar on threaded studs. Instead of nut and washers, you need to use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same method of fastening should be used in those regions where strong and long rains go in spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use the lower ram with humidity not higher than 12%, to process it with the most efficient hydraulic protection and set to the maximum rigid mount (ordinary and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire design. The same approach must be applied in those regions where the wind speed often exceeds 20 meters per second. The neglect of the rigid fastening in the seismic or windy regions will lead to the fact that the fastening under the influence of external factors will break out and the house will begin to swing. Disranged by shrinkage compensators when working with a natural and high humidity bar, as well as in regions with frequent and strong seasonal rains, will lead to the appearance of gaps between the bustling crown and the foundation or painter.