Hand and foot homemade lathes. Sewing machine drive. Video: improved wood lathe from a drill

As you know, household sewing machines come in hand, foot and electric drive... A foot-operated sewing machine gives a higher speed of rotation of the flywheel compared to a machine with a manual drive, and frees the hands of the operator from rotating the flywheel. It all creates Better conditions for work, leads to an increase in labor productivity and improves the quality of products.

Foot Operated Sewing Machine

At sewing factories, workshops, ateliers, industrial universal and special sewing machines are used. On special machines, only one operation is performed: buttons are sewn, loops are made, seams are sewn, embroidered, etc. On universal machines, many operations can be performed for stitching parts and processing sections of the product, and with the help of devices, the product can be sewn from the beginning to the end. Household sewing machines are universal.

Exercise

Look at figure 28, find the indicated parts on the sewing machine, and explain how the foot-operated sewing machine differs from sewing machine with manual drive.

Foot drive. The foot drive (fig. 29) has a pedal 9 mounted on screws (centers). It is set in an oscillatory motion by the legs of the worker. This movement with the help of a connecting rod 8 and a crank 7 turns into a rotational one and is transmitted to the starter wheel 4. The rim of the starter wheel has a groove into which a round belt 3 is inserted. The belt connects the starter wheel to the flywheel pulley 2 mounted on the main shaft of the machine.

Thus, the rotation of the starter wheel is transmitted by the belt to the flywheel pulley. For safety reasons, the starter wheel is closed at the front with a shield 6. At the end of the work, the belt is removed from the starter wheel using a tap 5.

Sanitary and hygienic requirements and safety rules

When working on a sewing machine with a foot drive, it is necessary to observe basically the same sanitary and hygienic requirements and safety rules as when working on a machine with a manual drive (Appendix 4 and 5). Besides:

1. When using a foot-operated sewing machine, pay particular attention to the position of the arms and legs.

2. Do not wear the belt while the machine is running.

3. Do not hold the belt with your hand, otherwise you could injure your hand with a paper clip.

5. Remove the belt from the rim of the starter wheel using a tappet.

Remember the words: foot drive, starter wheel, drive belt, breaker, guard.

Questions

1. What are the hygiene requirements when using the sewing machine?

2. What safety precautions must be observed when operating a foot operated machine?

3.What part is used to transfer the rotational motion of the starter wheel to the flywheel?

Exercises

1. Starting and stopping the machine

1) Put the machine on free wheeling.

2) Set the flywheel of the machine in motion. To do this, put your feet on the pedal, right slightly ahead of the left.

Turn the flywheel towards you with your right hand and swing the pedal while working with your feet. Put your hands on the platform.

Observe the correct direction of rotation of the flywheel!

3) Stop the car. To do this, you must stop swinging the pedal, and right hand hold the flywheel (fingers should be closed).

2. Machine operation without threads

1) Put the machine on the working stroke.

2) Place fabric under the foot and lower the foot.

3) Set the flywheel of the machine in motion. Follow correct position hands and movement of the fabric! The fabric should move away from the worker.

4) Stop the car.

Repeat the exercise several times.

Machine needle

The machine needle is one of the important working parts of the sewing machine. She pierces the fabric and passes a thread through it, threaded into the eyelet. Depending on the type of work performed in different cars use needles different lengths and shapes (fig. 31). The needles must be strong and resilient. They are made of high quality steel.

Needle device... The machine needle consists of three main parts: the bulb, the blade and the point (fig. 32).

The cylindrical flask is flat. The blade is also cylindrical in shape, but of a smaller diameter, so that the needle can more easily pass through the puncture made in the fabric by the point. The blade has two grooves - long and short. The grooves prevent the thread from rubbing against the fabric.

From the side of the long groove, the thread runs along the entire length of the needle blade. On the other hand, the thread touches the needle only in that part of it that enters the fabric: a short groove is made to this length.

The sharp end of the needle - the point - is its working part. It serves to pierce the fabric and has an eyelet for threading.

Selection of the needle. To get a good machine stitch, it is very important to choose the right needle.

Machine needles are distinguished by numbers - from 75 to 150. The number is placed on the needle bulb. The larger the number, the thicker the needle. The needles are selected depending on the thickness of the threads, the number of which, in turn, depends on the type of fabrics to be sewn (Table 21).

When choosing a needle, you need to pay attention to its quality. The needle blade should be straight, the point well sharpened, the grooves and eyelet should be smooth and well polished, as roughness and scratches reduce the strength of the thread and cause it to break.

Tasks

1. Consider a machine needle. Find the parts shown in Figure 32 on it. Compare the device of the machine needle with the manual one. Answer the questions: 1) what is the purpose of the machine needle? 2) What part of the needle is working and what work does it do? 3) Why is the eyelet in the machine needle located at its sharp end, and not in the blunt one, like in the hand needle?

2. Using the table, select a needle and thread for sewing products from chintz and satin and answer the questions: 1) what determines the selection of a machine needle?

2) How to determine the quality of the needle?

Installing the machine needle (fig. 33)

Exercises

1. Raise the needle bar to the upper position.

2. Loosen the needle clamp screw.

3. Insert the needle through the needle holder into the needle bar until it stops.

The long groove of the needle must be on the side of the thread guide!

4. Tighten the needle clamp screw.

5. Check if the needle passes freely into the hole in the throat plate and does not touch the hook. To do this, lower and raise the needle.

The upper thread is threaded into the eye of the needle from the side of the thread guide on the needle holder!

7. Check the quality of the stitching.

Needle placement is essential. Normal operation of the machine depends on the quality of the needle and its correct installation (Table 22).

Questions

1. How to install the machine needle correctly?

2. What is the name of the machine part into which the needle is inserted?

3. In which direction should the long groove point when inserting the needle?

4. From which side is the needle threaded?

5. What problems with the sewing machine can be caused by improper needle insertion or defects?

Sewing by machine

Exercises

1. Take a fabric measuring 30 x 40 cm, fold it in half with the wrong side inward and sweep (Fig. 34, a).

2. Draw lines every 3 cm parallel to the fabric cuts.

3. Sew the fabric along the marked lines and remove the basting stitches (Fig. 34, b).

Observe the rules for working on the machine!

4. Check the quality of the resulting stitch: correctness and evenness of the stitching.

Use the resulting fabric sample to make a holding mitten for gripping hot dishes.

Practical work

Making mittens-holders

Progress

1. Place the gauze-holder on the prepared fabric and trace its contours (Fig. 35, a). The mold can be made by yourself: circle the contour of the hand and cut with a 1 cm seam allowance (Fig. 35.6).

2. Cut out a mitten, fold and sweep the details at a distance of 1 cm from the cuts.

3. Sew a mitten (Fig. 35, c), remove the basting stitches, process the sections with buttonhole stitches.

4. Make a thread loop (fig. 36).

5. Check the quality of the work performed: the quality of the stitching, the quality manual work(sewing buttonhole stitches and sewing buttonholes).

Winder

There is a device for winding thread on a bobbin in a sewing machine: winder and tensioner... The winder is attached to the right side of the sleeve, near the flywheel, and the tensioner is attached to the machine platform (fig. 37).

The winder (fig. 38) is a metal spindle-rod 5 with a sleeve put on it. At the right end of the spindle there is a pulley 7, on the rim of which a rubber wheel 6 is put on, at the left end there is a pin 4. The spindle is connected to the machine sleeve by means of a lever 8. To fix the spindle in the right position there is a latch 9. For even winding of threads, the latch is equipped with a tongue 1.

The tensioner consists of two tension washers mounted on the platform and a spool pin.

Exercise

Look at the drawing of the winder and find the marked parts on the sewing machine.

The exercise. Winding the thread onto the bobbin

1. Put the machine on free wheeling.

2. Place the spool on the spool pin located on the machine platform (see Fig. 37) and thread the thread between the tensioner washers.

3. Wind a few turns of thread around the bobbin by hand.

4. Slide the bobbin onto the winder spindle so that the spindle pin engages the notch in the bobbin (see Fig. 38, 3 - 4). The bobbin is thus fixed on the spindle and will not rotate during winding. The thread from the bobbin should run down to the worker.

5. Press the rubber wheel against the flywheel rim by pushing in the lever bushing until the latch tab is inserted between the bobbin walls. Thus, the rubber wheel will come into close contact with the flywheel rim and the winder will start working.

6. Set the flywheel in motion. Wind the thread around the bobbin until the latch tab bounces off the bobbin. When winding, the thread should lie tightly, in even rows, otherwise it will get tangled and torn during sewing.

7. Cut the thread and remove the bobbin from the spindle.

Remember the words: winder, tensioner, winder spindle, pin, bushing, latch.

Questions

1. Tell us about the sequence of winding the thread on the bobbin.

2. Why, when putting the bobbin on the bobbin spindle, drive the spindle pin into the groove of the bobbin?

3. What role does the latch tab play when winding the bobbin thread?

4. Why is the rubber wheel on the winder pulley?

5. How should the thread be laid when winding it onto the bobbin?

Linen seams

Lingerie is sewn so that the fabric cuts are inside the seam. it connecting seams: double and sewing... They are called linen seams(Table 23).

Practical work

Making samples of linen seams

Equipment: work box, four pieces of cloth measuring 10 x 10 cm.

Making a sample of a double stitch

Progress

1. Prepare a sample: fold the two fabrics with the wrong side inward, chop and sweep.

2. Stitch the details (Fig. 39, a). Remove the basting stitches and, spreading the seam allowance on two sides, iron it. Turn the sample to the wrong side, straighten the seam and sweep (see Fig. 39, b).

3. Sew the details, remove the basting stitches, iron the finished seam. Trim the specimen cuts with zigzag scissors or overcast (see Fig. 39, c).

Making a seam pattern

Progress

1. Prepare a sample: fold and split two pieces of fabric with the front sides inward so that the bottom piece protrudes 0.7 cm (Fig. 40, a).

2. Bend around the cut of the upper part with the lower part, sweep and grind the parts (Fig. 40, b).

3. Remove the basting stitches, fold the seam towards the upper part and baste. Stitch a seam (Fig. 40, c).

4. Remove the basting stitches, iron the finished seam, cut the sample with zigzag scissors or overcast (Fig. 40, d).

Sample design... Attach samples to an album and sketch the seams.

Devices used when working on a sewing machine

When working on a sewing machine, various small mechanization devices are of great help (Fig. 41). They contribute to improving the quality of the processed products, making labor easier and increasing its productivity. Working with fixtures does not require preliminary sweeping of the parts to be sewn.

By using sewing feet(Fig. 41, a) you can sew a seam seam, and with the help of a knife-switch (Fig. 41.6) - a hem seam with a closed cut (hemming). For seams different widths use knife switches of certain sizes.

When sewing a double seam, you can use the limit ruler - the seam will be smoother.

Remember the words: linen stitches, double stitch, seam stitch, seam foot, cutout foot.

Questions

1. What help do the sewing attachments provide?

2. How many times is the sewing foot sewn with the sewing foot?

3. How are seams of different widths performed with the help of a knife-switch?

4. What seams can be made with the limit ruler?

Machine parts connections

Movable and fixed connections of parts... Connections of machine parts are movable and fixed. Mobile called joints in which some parts can move relative to others. Motionless called such joints in which the parts cannot move relative to each other.

In a sewing machine, an example of a movable connection is the connection of the starting wheel of a foot drive with an axle (Fig. 42, a), and a fixed connection is the connection of a reel pulley with a spindle (Fig. 42, b).

Detachable and permanent connections of parts... Movable and fixed connections can be detachable and one-piece. Detachable connections can be repeatedly disassembled and reassembled without destroying parts. At permanent connection you cannot separate the parts without damaging the connection or one of the parts.

Examples of such connections in a sewing machine are those shown in Table 24.

Remember the words: movable and fixed connections, detachable and one-piece connections.

Tasks

1. Look at table 24 and find the indicated connections on the sewing machine.

2. Determine the types of connections of the parts shown in the figure (Fig. 43).

Questions and tasks for repeating the topic "Sewing on a sewing machine"

1. Name the parts of the sewing machine foot drive in the sequence of transmission of motion from the pedal to the flywheel.

2. Tell us about the sanitary and hygienic requirements when working with a foot-operated sewing machine.

3. What safety precautions warn about handling the sewing machine drive belt with care?

4. What is the purpose of the grooves in the needle and why are they different in length?

5. How to choose and install the machine needle correctly?

6. How does the winder work?

7. What joining seams do you know?

8. What kind of underwear seams do you know and what is their feature?

9. What devices are used when making linen seams?

10. Fill in the table:

Foot operated machines were invented by humans long before electricity was discovered. On such a machine, the Russian Tsar Peter I mastered the basics of turning, ancient craftsmen used them to create their masterpieces of wooden architecture and shipbuilding.

To all young technicians it is necessary already now to learn how to mechanize one's labor, to study the structure and principle of operation of machines, first simple ones, then more and more complex ones. We must learn to build machines and use them. Our article should help you with this.

This lathe for wood with a foot drive was built by young technicians from the Golob secondary school of the Volyn region in the mid-60s of the last century, at the same time this article was published in an appendix to the magazine "Young Technician".

Let's understand the device of the machine. It consists of a solid frame on which a base is fixed - two horizontal parallel bars, called parallels.
Rice. 1 General form homemade lathe.

On the left there are two racks, on which they are fixed: at the bottom - a flywheel (flywheel), at the top, above the parallels, - an axis (spindle) and a stepped pulley (headstock), fixed motionlessly.
On the right is the tailstock; it can move along the parallels and is fixed to them with a wedge or a bolt with a compression nut. This headstock has a center - a horizontal bar, set at the same height as the headstock spindle.
A stand is installed between the headstock and tailstock - a handyman on which the cutter rests during operation. The handyman can move along parallels. It is fixed in position using a wedge or a bolt with a compression nut.
The spindle is driven by a flywheel and a pedal. When you press the pedal with your foot, the connecting rod starts to move and the flywheel rotates. The belt transfers this rotation to the pulley. Together with the pulley, the spindle begins to rotate and a piece of wood sandwiched between the spindle and the center of the tailstock. A chisel is supported on a hand-hand and a tree is sharpened with it.

How fast does the spindle rotate? It depends on the ratio of the diameters of the flywheel and pulley, which are cylindrical wheels adapted for belt transmission. Let's turn to the laws of motion.

Two wheels connected to each other by a belt (Fig. 2) will have the same linear velocity, since any point of the belt in every unit of time passes the same distance; therefore, any point taken on the circumference of each wheel moves with the same speed. It is further known that the circumference of the wheel is equal to the value 2╥R... If the wheel makes so many revolutions per minute, then each point of its circumference passes a path equal to 2╥R 1 n 1 meters. But based on the first position, each point of the circumference of the second wheel must complete the same path in the same period of time. Therefore, with a radius, it will make a different number of revolutions This is expressed by the formula:
2╥R 1 n 1 = 2╥R 2 n 2

This implies a very important position: for two wheels connected by one belt, always:

R 1 n 1 = R 2 n 2

n 1 / n 2 = R 2 / R 1

In other words, the number of revolutions per minute that two shafts will make is inversely proportional to the radii of the wheels mounted on them, with which they are connected to each other.
Using this formula and knowing the number of revolutions of one of the wheels, it is easy to determine the number of revolutions of the other wheel. Suppose the first wheel (flywheel) rotates 100 rpm with a radius of 280 mm. You want to know how many revolutions the second wheel (pulley) makes if its radius is 70 mm.
Substitute numerical values into the last formula and solve the problem for n 2

n 2 = 100x280: 700 = 100x4: 1 = 400(revolutions).

The 4: 1 ratio showing the ratio of the radii of the wheels is called the gear ratio. It allows solving problems for determining the number of revolutions of one wheel, if the number of revolutions of the other is known. To do this, it is enough to multiply the speed by the gear ratio.
These calculations will have to be resorted to when determining the dimensions of the stepped pulley.
We now proceed to the preparation of machine parts. This will require good tree- dry, without cracks and knots, certainly hard species: oak, beech, in extreme cases, birch. Wood conifers not good
Prepare three bars for the racks 1 , 2 and 3 size 960x100x80 mm; three bars (stands 4 for racks) - 640x100x80 mm; two bars (for parallels 5 ) - 1400x120x40 mm; six bars (legs 6 for stands) - 275x100x80 mm; two planks 7 connecting legs - 1400x50x35 mm; one bar for the tailstock 8 - 550x100x80 mm; two bars for a handyman 9 and 10 - 250x50x20 mm and 400x60x50 mm; round roller 11 for a handyman - with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of 320 mm; three bars for the pedal 12 - 1000x80x40 mm, 960x80x40 mm and 530x80x40 mm - two clamping wedges 13 - each 20 mm thick, 250 mm long and 40 mm wide at one end and 50 mm at the other.
After all the bars have been prepared, proceed to marking (Fig. 1) and further processing them.

At the lower ends of the bars intended for the racks 1 , 2 and 3 , make spikes 100x80x30 mm At a distance of 315 mm from the upper ends, make cuts for the parallels 5 - 120 mm wide and 25 mm deep. At a distance of 100 mm from the upper ends of the posts 1 and 2 drill holes for the spindle 16 and make grooves for the ball bearings (by size). At a distance of 140 mm from the lower ends of the same struts, drill holes for the flywheel axis (crankshaft 17 ) and also make grooves for the ball bearings through which this axis will pass.
After that, into the bars 4 , intended for stands for stands, at a distance of 365 mm from their front ends, hollow out on top of the slots for the spikes of the stands 100x30 mm in size, and on the bottom side at a distance of 20 mm from the ends - two slots for the spikes of the legs 6 size 60x30 mm. On bars designed for legs 6 , make spikes 80x60x30 mm and cutouts for the planks 7 - 50 mm wide and 35 mm deep
A very important job - making an axis (spindle 16 ) with stepped pulley 15 - for the headstock.

The spindle can be made from a cut water pipe or a round steel bar with a diameter of 20-25 mm, threaded at one end. This axis must rotate in ball bearings (fig. 3). Therefore, it is best to first obtain suitable ball bearings, and only then, according to their inner diameter, pick up or grind the axle. If the ball bearings cannot be found, then install sliding bearings. They can be made from pieces of bronze or copper tubing.
Pulley 15 it is better to carve out of metal, but you can also make it out of solid wood. It fits snugly onto the spindle and is secured with a locking screw.
The profile of the pulley depends on which drive belt you use. For a flat belt, a cylindrical pulley is made, for a round one - a grooved one.
The pulley does not have to be stepped, that is, consisting of two or three wheels different diameters... On the described machine, the stepped pulley is supplied with the expectation that over time an electric drive will be made to the machine. A single pulley can be supplied on a foot-operated machine.
Now you need to decide at what speed the spindle should rotate, and depending on this, determine the diameter of the pulley (or three cylindrical wheels forming a stepped pulley). Here it is necessary to take into account the strength and structure of the machine and the dimensions of the parts that will be processed on it.
The average rotational speed for foot operated machines is approximately 300 rpm (electric driven machines typically run between 700 and 1500 rpm). When processing small parts, the number of revolutions can be increased; when machining large parts, the spindle should rotate more slowly. At a high number of revolutions, the blank can break out and hit the worker.
On the machine of young technicians from Golob, with a flywheel diameter of 570 mm, the pulleys have diameters of 140, 100 and 70 mm. This means that the gear ratios are approximately (rounded) 4: 1, 6: 1 and 8.5: 1. Assuming a flywheel speed of 80 rpm, then with a gear ratio of 8.5: 1, the spindle will rotate at 680 rpm. This speed is too large for a foot-operated machine. It is better to limit yourself to a pulley designed for a gear ratio of 4: 1 (or, if the pulley is stepped, then for gear ratios of 4: 1.5: 1 and 6: 1). Using these numbers, determine the diameter of the pulley yourself.
The width of each of the three wheels forming the stepped pulley is 35 mm, hence the total pulley width is 105 mm.
Flywheel diameter 14 - 570 mm, width 95 mm (other sizes are possible). To make a flywheel, you need to select and well cut dry boards with a thickness of 20-25 mm and glue three or four of them (depending on the thickness of the boards) square boards. To glue the shields, you will need the so-called zvinki - the same clamps, but longer. Make them from bars. Place the boards in two zwinki, after having lubricated their edges (except for the outer ones) with hot carpentry glue, and clamp them with two wedges, hammering them one towards the other. All this is shown in Figure 4.

On the shields prepared in this way, mark the circles. In this case, you need to provide for which belt will be used on your machine. If it is flat, then all the circles should be of the same diameter, if it is round, then the diameter of the middle (inner) circles should be about 30-40 mm less. Cut the circles very carefully and overlap each other like this. so that the boards of the first circle intersect with the boards of the next circle, etc. Glue the circles together and screw them together for strength. But before doing this, think about how to make the flywheel heavier. This can be done in several ways.
The first way is as follows. In the inner circles, as close to the edge as possible, gouge or drill several identical holes, placing them evenly around the entire circumference (Fig. 5, a). Fill these holes with lead. Instead of lead, you can put identical pieces of metal in them, for example, large nuts.

To make the flywheel heavier according to the second method, not solid circles are placed between the outer circles, but small circles in the center and rings around the circumference (Fig. 5, b). In this case, all the circles and rings must first be connected to each other, and then a hole must be drilled in the side wall and through it the hollow space inside the flywheel must be filled with dry sand. Remember to shake the flywheel while doing this so that the sand settles more firmly.
It is very important that the flywheel is balanced, that is, that the load is evenly distributed around its circumference.
In the center of the flywheel, drill a hole along the diameter of the axle (crankshaft 17 ) On both sides of the flywheel, screw metal couplings, in one of them you need to drill a hole and cut a thread for the locking (that is, fixing the flywheel to the axle) screw. The attachment of the flywheel to the axle is shown in Fig. 6.
Flywheel axis - crankshaft ( 17 - do according to fig. 1 from a steel rod with a diameter of 20-25 mm (you can pick up a long bolt of a suitable diameter and saw off its head). It is difficult to bend such a shaft yourself; it is better to seek help from a forge or a mechanical workshop.

This shaft should rotate in bearings embedded in the struts 1 and 2 (fig. 6) Connect the crank shaft with a connecting rod 18 with pedal 12 ... The connecting rod can be made from wood or metal. The device of the connecting rod and pedal and their connection are clear from Fig. 1.
Now let's start assembling the machine.
First, assemble all three stands with stands, insert the spikes of the stands into the slots of the stands, and then, after adjusting, you can weld them in. Insert the bars into the cutouts of the racks - parallels 5 (often called a skid) and secure with bolts, nuts and washers. Distance between posts 1 and 2 should be 130 mm, between the uprights 2 and 3 - 1000 mm. Glue the spikes of the legs into the slots of the stands 4 , and when the glue dries well, then fasten them with planks 7 .
Remember that you can use wood glue, screws, small bolts, but not nails to fasten parts of the machine.
Assemble the pedal 12 and attach it (for example with door hinges) to the front strip 7 .
Insert into the notches on the racks 1 and 2 bearings, place the flywheel between the struts and insert the crankshaft. Remember to put two steel plates on it to secure the bearings. Secure the flywheel with a locking screw and check if it rotates exactly in the same plane, if the axis is not skewed. The axle misalignment can be eliminated by ripping the bearings with small nails. When correct centering of the flywheel axle is achieved, secure the bearings with steel plates and the shaft with two metal couplings with locking screws or studs. Washers must also be placed under them.
Connect the crank shaft to the connecting rod 18 ... Studs and washers are also needed here.
Lubricate all rubbing parts with Vaseline and check if the foot control works well,
Assemble the parts of the headstock in the same order: insert the bearings into the recesses, push the pulley onto the spindle, check the alignment and secure everything. To prevent the spindle from moving in the longitudinal direction, put two metal couplings on it, filling the gaps between the pulley and the bearings. Secure the couplings with the locking screws.
Now put on the drive belt 20 and check the transmission of rotation from the flywheel to the pulley and spindle.
For cylindrical pulleys, a flat belt with a width of 20-25 mm is taken. For grooved pulleys, a twisted rawhide belt is used - supon. The tension of the round belt is easy to adjust: just twist it tighter.

Sew a flat belt with a thin rawhide strap. Sew the round belt with a staple made of thick steel wire (fig. 7). To prevent the belt from slipping, pour a little rosin powder under it on the pulley and flywheel.
It remains to collect the tailstock and the handbook. These are very important details, especially the grandmother.
At the lower end of the bar 8 designed for the tailstock, make two cutouts measuring 220x80x25 mm so that after stripping this part of the bar fits snugly between the parallels.In the same lower part, departing from the end by 60 mm, hollow out the hole for the clamping wedge. At the top of the block (100 mm from the end), drill a hole for the pressure screw ( 19 ) with center and handle.
The clamping screw can be a bolt with a bent end; its other end should be sharpened on a cone. It rotates in two nuts fixed in a block (just as you strengthened the bearings).
To make the tailstock more stable, screw the two support rails onto the tailstock. And so that the clamping screw cannot come off during operation, attach a stopper from a curved thick nail or steel bar with a thread and a nut.All these parts of the tailstock are shown in Figure 8.

Install the mounted tailstock in parallel (slide) so that the center of its clamping screw approaches the center of the spindle. The points of the centers must coincide; if this does not happen, it is necessary to adjust the position of the tailstock in the parallels.
On a bar 10 make cutouts 200x20x50 mm in size on both sides for the assistant. At the wide end of the bar, hollow out a hole 25x50 mm; insert a bar into it 9 and secure with a small wedge. The top of the bar 9 cut at an angle (as shown in fig. 1) Firmly screw a 220 mm long sheet metal plank onto it (for greater strength). In the roller 11 make two rectangular holes 50X20 mm each; the distance between them is 110 mm. A bar is passed through the upper hole 10 , a clamping wedge is inserted into the bottom 13 .
Now you need to equip the spindle for fixing the workpieces to be machined. different sizes... Auxiliary parts for this purpose are the faceplate fork and the cartridge.
It is better if the spindle is made of pipe. In this case, the faceplate can be a flange screwed onto the pipe. As a cartridge, it is convenient to use a connecting sleeve, the so-called "transitional" - with different diameters. A fork can be easily made from a short piece of pipe, "screwed into the coupling halfway; the end must be flattened and filed according to Figure 9.

In the same way, a fork, a faceplate and a chuck for a spindle are made from a steel rod or bolt. As a last resort, you can simply saw off the end of the spindle and turn it into a fork, but this is less convenient for work.
Good job homemade machine depends on the accuracy of the parts, the accuracy of their fitting to each other, the strength of the joints. It is clear that the machine should not stagger during operation, the spindle should not hit in the bearings. The flywheel must rotate evenly and strictly in the same plane. Finally, the fastening of the tailstock and the handcuff in any position must be rigid and reliable.
Therefore, it is necessary to correctly set the parallels, firmly connect them to the racks, precisely adjust the lower parts of the handguard and the headstock to the distance between them. The whole frame must be very firmly connected. If the struts wobble in the grooves, then during operation the belt may come off the pulley or, even worse, the workpiece will break out of the centers. Stiff the entire system. It is possible that the most critical connections will have to be reinforced with flat steel elbows.
For final finishing machine, clean all wooden parts with a fine sandpaper and cover with linseed oil, and then alcohol varnish. Paint metal parts with enamel or oil paint
We do not dwell on trifles and minor details, since we believe that only those young technicians who already have known knowledge, skills and experience should undertake the construction of a lathe, even the simplest one.

The construction of the machine opens up wide possibilities for independent design, improvement of individual parts and assemblies For example, clamping wedges 13 can be replaced by bolts with compression nuts.Such replacement is shown in fig. 10 When processing long objects, the handrail can be replaced with a bar screwed to the uprights 2 and 3 at points "A" (Fig. 1). Instead of a foot drive, you can make an electric one by attaching an electric motor under the pulley.
If you cut a thread at the end of the spindle protruding to the left (that is, outward) and pick up nuts with washers, then you can put on a small round sharpener or a grinding wheel.

In the next article we will talk about cutting tools used when working on a wood lathe.

We offer you to get acquainted with the drawing-diagrams of a lathe having the simplest design, which was used even before the advent of electric motors. The design of the lathe is attractive in that it is available in production to almost everyone, does not have complex assemblies and does not require any scarce materials. And the possibilities, despite the "antiquity", are no worse than those of any purchased lathe: after all, all the wonderful examples of folk wooden art, which we admire in local history and ethnographic museums, were created on approximately such machines.

1 - flywheel, 2 - crankshaft, 3 - drive belt, 4 - machine racks, 5 - headstock drum, 6 - headstock shank, 7 - support, 8 - upper tie (caliper guide), 9 - tailstock head, 10 - tailstock (bolt), 11 - foot bearings, 12 - bottom brace (pedal axis), 13 - pedal, 14 - pedal thrust.

The first thing you pay attention to when looking at the proposed machine is that it does not have any motor. The drive is a foot pedal and a crankshaft pivotally connected by a metal (although it can be wooden) rod. A flywheel is mounted on the crankshaft, which contributes to the uniform rotation of the workpiece, clamped between the shank of the headstock and the cone of the tailstock. As a flywheel, for example, a massive wooden circle (a cut of the trunk suitable diameter) or a disc made from thick boards (in two or three layers), respectively processed with a hacksaw, files and sandpaper.

From the flywheel, rotation is transmitted through a leather or rubber-fabric belt (or cord) to the headstock drum. Since the latter has the same diameter along its entire length, the change in the rotation speed of the workpiece depends only on the operation of the pressure pedal. If the drum is made in the form of a row of pulleys of different diameters, the desired revolutions can be obtained by simply throwing the belt. However, then it will be necessary to come up with a device for tensioning the belt when transferring it from a larger pulley to a smaller one.

To connect the listed parts and assemblies into a single structure, wooden racks are used, in turn, resting on wooden thrust bearings. Both the racks themselves and the thrust bearings are made of identical boards with a thickness of 20-25 mm.

1 - pillar thrust bearing with a window for a spike, 2 - rack end stop with a spike.

The longitudinal strength of the structure is given by the lower and upper ligaments. On one of the lower ones - the one that is longer, uniting all three racks (made of a pipe or a bar), a pedal is hingedly attached. And above it, on the upper bundle (a board, like the racks, but half their width), a support is installed on which the processing tool will rest: a chisel, chisel, file or grinding block. The caliper can be moved horizontally and fixed in the desired place thanks to the eccentric with a handle located at the bottom. All parts of the caliper are made of hardwood.

Caliper base - H-shaped body; it can be made entirely or from bars. A support for the tool (bar) is inserted into the upper groove, and the lower one slides along the bar of the machine's upper tie. The eccentric fixing its position is a metal disc with a square hole off-center; the same hole is at the handle bar. The rod-axis included in them has the same square section as the middle part of the headstock shaft, where the drive drum is installed. The head of the headstock ends with a tooth holding the workpiece.

1 - support, 2 - H-shaped body, 3 - screws for fastening the support, 4 - eccentric clamping disk, 5 - eccentric axis, 6 - handle bar, 7 - handle screw, 8 - handle, 9 - bar of the upper clamp of the machine.

The crankshaft is made of steel bar with a diameter of at least 10 mm. A sleeve is placed on its shank for protection wooden rack at the point of rotation of the threaded part.

1 - crankshaft, 2 - flywheel, 3 - rack, 4 - bushing.

1 - pedal, 2 - traction loop, 3 - buckle of the foot bearings, 4 - pedal hinge-hinge.

The connection of the struts with the thrust bearings and the fit of the pedal are clear from the figures. The tailstock in the bore of the rack can be without an additional protective sleeve, since it has only a conical nozzle as its rotating part. The main part - the axle - is an M8 bolt with a wing nut and a washer resting on the rack when clamping the part; the end of the bolt is sharpened to facilitate rotation of the headstock head (an embedded steel ball can be used instead).

1 - thrust axis of the head (bolt M8), 2 - thrust washer, 3 - adjusting wing nut, 4 - head of the headstock.

The workpiece to be machined should not have a rectangular cross-section, otherwise an inexperienced "turner" will not be injured for a long time, because the tool is not fixed, it is held only by hands and the support of the support. Therefore, the latter should be fed to the piercing site gradually and very carefully. If you have to grind a block, then you must first round it off with a coarse file (you can use the same machine), and only then use the cutters.

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Sewing machines, 20th century, have always been produced, with foot and hand drive. But more often with a foot. In this article, I will show you how it works. And what kind of malfunctions happen to him. The main reason, not serviceable, is:

1. Not knowing the device.

1. Not knowledge, consistency, disassembly in order to carry out a routine inspection.
2. In time, add lubricant.

On photo 1, foot drive.

1. Drive wheel.
2. Axle, drive wheel.
3. Bolt, core, to the hub.
4. Traction attachment to the drive wheel.
5. Figured screw.
6. Figured nut.
7. The bracket that connects the pedal to the rod.
8. Pedal.
9. Cone screw with lock nut.
10. Drive belt.

Photo 1.

On Photo 2, shows the linkage of the rod to the pedal.

If, when you press the pedal, while sewing, you hear a knock in the area of ​​the pedal, then you need to:

1. Stop working immediately. Otherwise the drive will be damaged!
2. Inspect, knots, drive!

Disconnecting the rod from the pedal:

On the rod No. 1, a figured screw No. 3 is put on. From the bottom to the rod, a ball No. 2 is welded. The figured screw is inserted into the hole of the bracket No. 5. This bracket No. 5 is screwed to a wooden pedal. It is not possible to get to the screws!

This is what leads to confusion, how to make out?

But everything is ingenious, simple:

On the screw No. 3, the nut is screwed on the cap No. 4. You need two open-end wrenches to unscrew.

1. Traction.
2. Figured screw.
3. Plug nut.
4. Bracket, pedal mounts.
5. Fastening screws.
6. (Wooden) pedal.

The pedal can be made of wood and metal!

Photo 2.

On photo 3, shows the assembly, fastening the drive wheel, on the hub.

1. Fastening bolt, shaba No. 2.
2. Retaining washer, drive wheel No. 3.
3. Core No. 4 is inserted into the drive wheel.
4. Core inserted into hub # 6.
5. Bolt, locking the position of the core No. 4, in the hub No. 6.
6. Hub, fixed (with screws or screws), to the right upright rack bed number 7.
7. Vertical stand, horizontal table top.

Photo 3.

The balls are covered with Tsiatim lubricant. And in the case of prophylaxis, without disassembling the unit, a few drops of oil I 18 A are enough. From this:

1. The thickened grease will become sour.
2. The creak will disappear.

The lubricant is changed every 3-4 years!

On photo 4, the connection of the traction with the wheel.

1. Nut, for sector wrench.
2. Head body.
3. Bearing balls.
4. Axle - threaded core at the right end.
5. Lock nut.
6. Drive wheel.
7. Traction locknut.
8. Traction.

For a long time I was interested in the topic of what will happen without electricity and fuel, or everything will collapse or it is necessary to invent.
Found an article with interesting drawings and photographs of hand-operated (foot-operated) machines.
The machines are quite simple, it is not difficult to understand and make it yourself.

Here is a partial reprint of the article:

The prehistory of the appearance of the first machine tools begins with the most ancient historical periods, when our ancestors, who possessed primitive tools-tools (mainly made of stone), drilled holes, for example, to put a hammer or ax on a stick. And even then, a device arose, which was constructed in approximately the following uncomplicated manner. From durable wood a rod was cut out, one end of which was sharpened. With this pointed end, the rod rested against a depression in the stone filled with fine-grained sand. A bow string was spirally twisted around the rod. When the bow was set in motion, the rod began to rotate (like a drill), which provided grinding of the recess with the help of sand. As a result, a hole was drilled in the stone.

Paleolithic Drill Jig

In ancient times, there were also devices for processing ceramics and wood in Greece and Rome. According to the historian Pliny, a certain Theodore, a resident of the island of Samos (in the Aegean Sea), 400 years BC successfully used a device on which mechanically rotated (from a foot drive) metal products were turned. Ancient decorations testifying to this have survived to this day.

Drawing of a lathe that has survived to this day
Greek master Theodore (VI century BC)

So, even in ancient Egypt, a lathe with a bow-type manual drive was used. On this device, stone and wooden crafts... In this distant prototype of modern machine tools, such basic structural elements of the machine as the bed, headstock, supports for cutters, etc. have already figured in the embryo. Both hands of the worker took an active part in the work of the "machine". Reverse rotation of the product, feed of the cutter required the application of great physical efforts of a person. These "machines" with minor modifications have been used for many centuries in different countries the world.

"Machine" with a manual bow drive, used in
ancient egypt for lathe work

Working on an ancient Egyptian lathe

In the future, the turning device underwent a number of design changes. It was already set in motion by a human foot and tied with a whip to two neighboring trees. The workpiece was fastened between two sharpened stakes tied to tree trunks.

Lathe "machine" with foot drive

The product was rotated by a rope, the upper end of which was tied to a springy tree branch, in the middle the rope wrapped around the product, and the lower end of the rope ended in a loop. The man inserted his leg into the loop, and, pressing and releasing the rope, set the product in a rotational motion. it lathe it was used for a very long time in a wide variety of modifications.

At the beginning of the 15th century, the base of the lathe was wooden bench... On the bench-bed there were two headstock, connected by a bar that served as a support for the cutter. This eliminated the need for the turner to keep the cutter suspended. Machine parts were made of wood. A flexible pole, fixed on a pillar, hung over the machine. A rope was attached to the end of the pole. The rope was twisted around the shaft, went down and tied to a wooden pedal. By pressing the pedal, the turner set the part in rotation. When the turner let go of the pedal, the flexible pole pulled the rope back. In this case, the workpiece was rotated in reverse side, so that the turner had to, as in bow lathes, alternately press and then move the cutter.

Lathe leg-propelled
(from the book "House of the 12 Mendel Brothers", 1400)

At the beginning of the 17th century, machines with a continuous rope manual drive from a handwheel located behind the machine began to be used. The following figure shows a lathe described in the book of Solomon de Cau, published in France in 1615. On this machine, the ends of the product were processed, and the carriage support was pressed against the copy by weights.

Handwheel rope lathe
(from the book of Solomon de Co, 1615)

(from the site tool-land.ru)

From the pictures you can clearly imagine how the simplest machines look like, and in which case they are not difficult to reproduce.