Cesspool in a private house: diagram. Drain pit in a private house. Doing it right How to make a cesspool cheaper

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It is important to put a reliable overlap with a hole for pumping and ventilation. The overlap can be doubled and the interior can be filled with foam.

At the end of the work, it does not interfere with masking the pit so that it does not spoil the appearance around the house. To do this, you can cover this place with earth and decorate with plantings.

Use for draining a septic tank

This way of organizing the drainage of water from the house is very suitable for country houses and summer cottages. The construction of a septic tank is similar to a wastewater storage device and is carried out from almost the same materials. However, in its work, a special principle of settling and additional purification of water is used, which makes the accumulation of water in a septic tank more efficient than in a storage tank. In addition, the septic tank is more durable.

Unlike a simple drive, a septic tank consists of two or sometimes more sections. The most common two-chamber option. Waste water is discharged into the first section. Heavy particles and silt are deposited at the bottom and gradually absorbed into the soil. Lighter waste goes through a special pipe to the second section and is absorbed into the ground.

Required tools and accessories:

the same as during the construction of the storage;
if the area of the site and access roads to it allows, then you can use special equipment: an excavator and a crane.

How to install a septic tank?

For the construction of a septic tank, you can use the same rings as for a wastewater storage tank, only two sections (chambers) should be provided, which will be connected by a pipe. The construction technology is similar to the storage device technology. The only thing that you need to dig a hole for the rings with a margin so that there is no difficulty in lowering the rings. In the first ring, waterproofing should be provided; for this, the bottom can be concreted. In the second ring, it is necessary to create water-penetrating conditions. You can cover it with pebbles or gravel.

To overflow wastewater, the rings are connected by pipes. The gap between the rings and the walls of the pit can be filled with previously dug soil.

Overlap is made from above. For this, concrete slabs with hatch holes can be used. Hatches can be cast iron or plastic. Ventilation should be provided in the second ring. For ventilation, you can mount a pipe that would be located m above ground level. As in the first case, it is better to mask the surface of the septic tank by covering it with earth and planting the plants.

Here are two ways how to make a drain in your country house and feel more comfortable using the water and not wondering where it flows.

Sewerage in a country or rural house nowadays is no longer an exception, but rather the rule, therefore, the arrangement of such a good of civilization is attracting more and more attention of owners of private houses.

A drain pit is an integral part of any sewage system and you can build it with your own hands quite inexpensively, using available materials for this purpose.

Making a drain pit with your own hands will be discussed in our article.

Where to start construction

Before starting construction, you need to develop a plan

Before proceeding with the construction of the drainage system, it is necessary to sketch out a plan on a sheet of paper, observing the scale and taking into account the following requirements:

Distance to the foundation of a house or other structure, no closer than 5 m.
The distance to a water well, cellar or well is not less than 20 m, and preferably 30 m.
The distance to the border of the site is not closer than 1 m, and then if there is no neighbor's water intake outside the border of your site.
There is a convenient access for a sewage truck, since from time to time the drains will have to be pumped out.

Pay your attention: the requirements listed above are requirements for SanPin, but they must be clarified in the local sanitary inspection, since in each region, its own nuances can be added.

Determining the type of drain

It is necessary to decide on the type of drain

Before starting the construction of a drain pit, you need to decide on the type of drain. The type of drainage pit depends on its design and happens:

Cumulative.
Filtering.

Accumulative type, as the name implies, serves to collect wastewater, followed by pumping. That is, the entire volume of wastewater is periodically pumped out by special vehicles and taken out for disposal.

A device of this type is simpler and, accordingly, cheaper, but if 4 or more people permanently live in the house, then the operation will be quite expensive, since the pit will have to be cleaned quite often, and this is a paid service.

Filter type more difficult in construction, due to the fact that a filtering system will have to be made, but then most of the effluent will go into the ground, and pumping will be done much less often. Therefore, the operation of such a drain will be cheaper.

For the storage type, it is necessary to build a sealed well; such a well can be made from various materials:

concrete rings;
bricks;
plastic or metal container.

In a concrete or brick well, it is necessary to concrete the bottom and seal the seams, this is a difficult and expensive job, and the concrete rings themselves are expensive.

In addition, a crane is required to install the rings, and you will have to pay for the use of this crane. Brick, somewhat cheaper, but high-quality masonry and especially the sealing of the walls can only be done by a specialist, so we do not consider these options.

It is much easier to make a well from a plastic or metal container, you just need to decide on the volume. It is usually taken as a multiple of the service car, 4, 6, 8 cubes and take into account the number of people living in the house.

Stages

A drain pit from a ready-made container, it is quite affordable to do it yourself, this requires only desire and diligence. Let's take a closer look at the stages of construction.

Cooking the pit

We mark a place for a pit for a container. The dimensions of the pit should be 15–20 cm larger than the container, and the depth should be at least 1 meter from the top of the container to the ground.

We place the container in the pit, if it is made of plastic, this can be done without the help of additional equipment, but using cables.

Having installed the container in the pit, you must make sure that the height from its top to the surface of the earth is at least 1 meter. If the thickness of the soil above the tank is less than 1 meter, then it is necessary, before backfilling, to make thermal insulation with any insulation 100-150 mm thick.

Digging a trench

We begin to dig a trench from the house to the pit, the depth of the trench near the house can be 0.5–0.7 m and slope towards the pit. This slope should be within 2–3 cm per meter of trench length.

Take a note: the slope must be kept within these limits, because with a lower slope, the runoff worsens, especially of solid particles, and with a larger slope, the liquid part flows down faster than the solid fraction moves and gradually the pipes will clog.

Pipeline laying

Pipeline slope control device

A sand cushion of 20-25 cm is poured at the bottom of the trench, a pipeline is laid on it, controlling its slope. To control the slope of the pipeline, a special device is used, it consists of a building level, which is placed on a specially made rail 1 m long and one end 3 cm thick, and the other 5.

This rail with a level is placed on the pipeline and, pouring in or, on the contrary, removing sand from under the pipe, achieve a zero reading on the level scale.

Backfill

First, carefully, manually sprinkle the pipeline 20-30 cm, slightly tamp, the final backfilling, if possible, can be continued with a bulldozer, or manually. Having finished with backfilling and leveling, you can start operating the system.

As mentioned at the beginning, the operation of this system is quite costly, so it can be improved by building a filter well, where the clarified water will drain, and the solid fraction will accumulate in the storage well. In this case, it will have to be pumped out several times less often, once or twice a year.

The drain pit at the summer cottage can be improved

So, our system will consist of two parts:

Accumulative drainage pit from a ready-made container, which we have already built.
A filter well, the construction of which we will now consider.

The filter well should not be airtight, on the contrary, water will go into the ground through the holes in it.

It can be made from brick, metal pipe, and the easiest way is to use old car or tractor tires. The durability of such a well, made of tires, is not less than 12-15 years.

To make such a well, you need:

Prepare tires. It is not necessary to choose them of the same size, the main thing is that they do not fall into one another. Their number will depend on the height of the well and the thickness of the tires. For example, if we take tires from the Don combine, there are enough of them and 3 pieces.
We prepare a hole with a diameter of 0.5 m larger than the tires.
We fall asleep at the bottom of the pit 30-40 cm of sand, then 30-40 crushed stone, carefully level and tamp.
We put the tires one on top of the other, and carefully fill the gap between the walls of the pit and the tires with soil, tamping it down.

Builder's tip: the filter well should be buried 0.5-0.7 m deeper than the accumulator. The pipeline cuts into the storage tank at the level of ¾ from its bottom, and enters the filter well as high as possible, but this is not necessary.

To insert a pipeline into one of the tires, the higher the better, we cut a hole along the diameter of the pipe. We lay, not forgetting about the slope, the pipe and carefully fill the soil.
We make a cover for a well from metal or wood.

Our custom drainage system is ready.

It turns out that making a drain pit with your own hands will not be difficult, you just need to follow these simple rules. This will save you a significant amount.

The creation of a sewerage system in a private house will qualitatively change the living conditions in it, bringing it closer in comfort to a city apartment, and compliance with SanPin standards will save nature from pollution and you from fines.

Detailed video instruction about how to build a drain pit in a private house with your own hands, you can here:

There is no general sewage system in small settlements. At the same time, the need for safe collection of sewage in a suburban area plays an important role. Do you agree? A well-equipped drainage pit in a private house will perfectly cope with the duties of receiving and partial disposal of wastewater.

But is she capable of providing comfort and epidemiological safety to household members? How to make sure that the pit is not a hassle? These issues should be carefully dealt with before deciding on the device of such a system.

We will also discuss solutions to the problem of wastewater in a suburban area and talk about how to build a cesspool on your own and what is needed for this. The article contains expert advice, photo and video materials to help you better understand the arrangement of a sewer point on the site.

The operation of a suburban household is associated with the production of wastewater. Every homeowner is faced with the task not so much of the accumulation of domestic waste water, but of their cleaning. Moreover, the solution common in rural areas - digging an old barrel or tank under the sewer cesspool - is ineffective.

If the daily volume of wastewater exceeds one cubic meter (1000 liters), then the shortcomings will soon manifest themselves as unpleasant odors. Or worse - intestinal infections among household members. Finally, a self-organized drain pit from a worn-out keg is illegal in a number of situations.

Image gallery

A drain pit with a filter bottom (fig. On the left) can only be used for gray waste water or for the disposal of water discharged from a multi-chamber septic tank. To collect brown sewer masses, sealed accumulators are built (figure on the right)

Porous or silicate bricks are not suitable, you need a material made of fired clay. Only walls made of fired bricks are capable of keeping mechanical loads from ground movements for years, not collapsing under the constant influence of moisture and generally do not let it into their own thickness.

The best option for a brick single-chamber accumulator is a fully waterproofed structure, which is periodically emptied by suction trucks.

If a drain pit is arranged for the disposal of gray effluents coming from a kitchen sink, bath, shower, etc., then a brick structure is arranged with a permeable bottom in type.

The bottom of the filtering or otherwise absorption well is filled with a soil filter composed of sand, fine, then coarse gravel or crushed stone.

The thickness of the cleaning backfill should be at least 1 m, between its conditional base and the highest groundwater level, noted in the rainy season, there should be at least a meter.

In the case of installing a brick sewage system on sandy loam soil, the filtration properties of which are insufficient for the free passage of treated wastewater, its throughput is increased. This is done by forming holes in the lower part of the walls during masonry.

We will analyze the construction of the simplest option - a collection pit for waste disposal, which does not perform absorption functions. Its bottom and walls will not let the waste mass, clarified and disinfected by a soil filter, into the environment.

The optimum depth of the pit for the drainage pit is 2-2.5 m.There is no need to dig deeper - the hose of the sewage suction machine will not reach

All the comforts of human living are associated with three components: electricity, water and sewerage. The owners of "summer residences" - summer cottages, small country houses - try to equip their seasonal dwelling with maximum comfort. Providing it with electricity is the simplest task, almost every corner of Russia is electrified. Water supply is decided by the arrangement of wells or wells. The most difficult issue - the local sewerage device - also has a standard solution: a do-it-yourself drain pit is being built on the site.

A drain pit in a private house or in the country is an elementary structure designed to collect and accumulate local sewage effluents. Household waste from toilets, kitchen sinks, washing machines and dishwashers is transported here through sewer pipes.

No treatment facilities are foreseen on the eve of this simplest collection of sewage effluents. As the pit is filled, it is cleaned by pumping out the contents. Depending on the method of cleaning, the accumulated sewage is removed by special machines - sewers, or after treatment with biological products, it is used for watering plants and as fertilizer.

Types of drain pits

Drain pits are classified in relation to ground level and materials of manufacture.

In relation to ground level

On this basis, sewage waste collectors are divided into two groups:

superficial;
underground.

Surface sewage collectors

This option is only suitable for use in the warm season. It is used extremely rarely, since the sewer network has to be laid on top in this case. The required slope (from the "supplier" of drains - sinks, toilet bowls, etc. - to the collector) can be provided only on condition that all sources of drains are located above the inlet of the tank. It is advisable to arrange surface drainage tanks in areas with a high level of groundwater.

Underground drain pits

Underground sewage collection facilities are the most common. Depending on the amount of drains, the design of the drain pit may or may not have a sealed bottom. Sanitary norms of Russia it is allowed to make holes without sealing the bottom if the daily volume of wastewater does not exceed 1 m 3.

In all other cases, a sealed underground reservoir is equipped.

By materials of manufacture

For the construction of the drain pit structure, the following materials can be used:

ceramic brick;
concrete (in the manufacture of a monolithic structure);
used tractor tires;
plastic;
wood.

For the device of drain pits with your own hands, concrete rings are the most unsuitable option. For their installation, construction equipment is required - manually with heavy products cannot be handled.

The easiest and cheapest way to equip a drain pit in a private house or in a summer cottage is to decorate its walls with tires. But such a design is unreliable in terms of tightness: there is a high risk of the liquid component of sewage drains getting into the soil.

Location - sanitary restrictions

Some homeowners believe that they can do whatever they want on their property, and they are deeply mistaken. Sanitary services are not asleep - they require strict adherence to the rules and regulations in force in the state, regardless of the type of property.

The location of the drain pit in a private house is also strictly regulated: the standards stipulate the minimum permissible distances from the waste storage tank to engineering structures, residential buildings and the boundaries of the site:

to the water conduit (central) - 10 meters;
to the underground gas pipeline - 5 meters;
to the drinking well: 20 m - on clay soils, 30 m - on loam, 50 m - on sandstone and sandy loam;
to a residential building (own and neighboring) - 10-12 meters;
to the fence (border of the site) - 1 meter.

The maximum depth of the drainage pit is also regulated: it should not exceed 3 m, if the groundwater level allows it. These restrictions are contained in SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 and SNiP 30-02-97.

Important: Homeowners should be aware that non-compliance with sanitary requirements can threaten not only with a fine - in case of damage to the health of others, a criminal case can be initiated.

In addition, when making a drain hole in the country with your own hands, it must be located on the site in such a way that it is possible to organize unhindered access to it for special equipment at the time of pumping out.

Tip: Practice shows that it is better to place a drain hole from the windows of residential premises at a distance of at least 15 meters.

Construction procedure

The device of a drain pit in a private house with your own hands, regardless of the choice of material, is carried out according to the general algorithm:

Explosive gas is generated in sewer tanks. To divert him ventilation is arranged... Its role is played by a pipe brought out through the pit cover. Its dimensions are regulated by building codes: diameter - 100 mm, height - at least 600 mm from ground level.

Choosing a way to clean the drain pit

Before you build a drain pit in a private house, a very important question should be decided: how you will clean it. The amount of work on the improvement of the site depends on this:

if it is easier for you to periodically invite specialists with a sewage truck, take care of organizing an access road;
If you are ready to clean yourself, purchase a plastic container with a sealed lid and find out in advance who will receive your waste. Don't forget about hand and respiratory protection. It is better if it is a gas mask, but, at worst, a respirator will do. Of course, you can't do without rubber boots.

When arranging a drain pit, you need to take care not only of how to dig it out, but also how to clean it

Modern technologies can significantly simplify the process of cleaning the drain pit if it fills up quickly, or even make it practically waste-free. We are talking about microscopic helpers - capable of converting wastewater into sufficiently pure water and a solid fraction suitable for use as fertilizer.

Bacteria not only decompose the contents of the drain, but they also work diligently to combat odors.

Just keep in mind, when deciding the question of how to clean the drain pit in a private house, that biological products should be chosen in accordance with the composition of the wastewater. Most bacteria cannot withstand contact with household chemicals: detergents and washing powders are detrimental to them. However, microorganisms that are resistant to aggressive environments are now being grown.

After the bacteria have worked hard, you will need to pump out the liquid component using a pump (it is completely harmless to humans, animals and plants) and remove solid sediment from the pit.

The townspeople, using the water supply, as a rule, do not think about where the waste water then flows. But the owners of country houses often have to solve the problem of waste disposal on their own. Consider how to properly make a drain pit. After all, it is this popular version of the local sewage system that is the simplest, cheapest and most affordable for self-construction.

When improving a house and a plot, the first thing to do is to build water supply and sewerage systems. Since it is quite difficult to imagine a comfortable life when it is necessary to carry water from a well.

There are a lot of options for organizing wastewater disposal, but the simplest and therefore very popular is the construction of a drain pit. Consider how to make a drain pit with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professional builders.

Types of drain pits

For all its simplicity, the drain pit can have a different design. The most common options are:

Sealed pit.
Filter pit.
Two-chamber pit.

Sealed pit

This version of the local sewage system is the safest for the environment, since all the drains from the house disappear into a sealed sump and remain there until they are pumped out by sewers.

Thus, there is no risk of contaminated water getting into the ground and soil water, that is, the presence of this type of sewage on the site does not affect the ecological systems. The disadvantage of this waste disposal option is the need to regularly pump out the accumulated liquid.

Filter drain pit

Sanitary rules are allowed to build drainage pits of a filter type only if the volume of wastewater per day is less than a cubic meter. If there is little wastewater, they have time to be processed by natural decomposition. Pits of this type can be built for a bathhouse, as well as for a house in which there is a separation of drains.

In the latter case, two sewer branches and two drainage pits are built. In the first (filter type), wastewater is transported from the shower room, from the washbasin, from the washing machine, that is, relatively clean. In the second (sealed type), sewage from toilets and kitchens should be transported.

Two-chamber drain pit

Another practical solution to the problem of how to build a drain pit is the construction of a two-chamber installation. Consider the principle of operation of such a treatment plant:

The pit consists of two chambers connected at the top by an overflow.
The first chamber is sealed, the second is filtering.
The drains (undivided) come from the house into the first sealed chamber, where they are mechanically separated, that is, they are simply defended. Solid inclusions sink to the bottom, and relatively clean water pours into the second chamber.
From the second chamber, water is filtered into the ground.
Waste accumulated in the first chamber should be pumped out periodically.

Advice! So that the drain pit can be cleaned less often, it is recommended to use special biological products. Bacteria recycle organics, reducing the amount of solid waste.

Construction planning

Before making a drain pit, a construction plan should be drawn up. It is necessary to decide on the type of structure, choose a construction site and determine the required volume of tanks.

How to determine the volume of the drainage pit?

The main indicator on which the volume of the drainage pit will depend is the intensity of use of a residential building. It is clear that a more voluminous pit is needed for a house than for a summer cottage.

Advice! Of course, it is better to determine the volume of effluents individually, but there are generally accepted norms. So, for a family of three permanently residing in the house, a pit with a capacity of 6 cubic meters should be built.

When determining the volume of the tank, the following factors should also be taken into account:

Availability of sewer services.
The volume that the sewage equipment can pump out at one time.

Where to locate the drain pit?

Soil water should lie deep enough on the site, since the minimum depth of the pit is two meters.
If there is a source of drinking water nearby, then a pit should be placed at a distance of at least 30 meters from it.
The cesspool cannot be placed on a slope.
It is necessary to provide for the availability of free passages for servicing the pit.
You can not place a hole next to the house and the fence of the neighboring site. The minimum distance to the accommodation is five meters.

In short, it is quite difficult to choose a place for construction, especially if the site is already equipped. However, you cannot deviate from the rules listed above.

The choice of material for construction

For the construction of a sealed pit, the following materials are used:

Concrete mortar. A formwork is being built into which the solution is poured. The thickness of the walls and the bottom should be at least 7 cm, it is advisable to perform reinforcement with a steel mesh.
Plastic containers. This is the least time consuming option. A pit is prepared, into which a finished plastic container is installed.

Advice! To exclude the possibility of deformation of containers under the action of soil pressure, as well as its floatation during spring floods, it is recommended to concreting the walls and bottom of the pit. When concreting the bottom, special fastening loops are laid, to which a plastic tank is tied with polymer straps.

Concrete rings.
Ceramic brick.

When choosing the last two options, you have to take additional measures to seal the seams. For this, the brickwork (or the joints between the rings) is treated with mortar from the inside, the bottom of the pit is concreted.

Additionally, from the inside, the walls are covered with a bitumen solution, and the outside is covered with a thick (20 cm) layer of oily clay. And what is the best way to overlay a drain pit if a filter version of a treatment plant is being built? There are no less options. Perfect for:

Brick. The walls should be laid out so that there are five-centimeter gaps between the rows, staggered.
Reinforced concrete rings. Manufacturers specially produce rings for the construction of drainage wells, they have perforations. If it was not possible to buy such rings, holes in solid products can be made independently using a puncher.
Old car tires. From this material at hand, you can easily assemble a drainage well. The tires are stacked one above the other, having previously cut off the lower rim on each of them.
Old plastic or metal barrels. For the construction of a pit, a barrel without a bottom is used, while a number of holes are made in its lower part for better water filtration.

Stages of construction of a drainage pit

Consider how to properly make a drain pit, provided that you do the work yourself:

Construction begins with the preparation of a pit and trenches for laying a supply pipeline.
The pit should be deeper than the planned depth of the drainage pit, since a drainage cushion is arranged at its bottom.
The drainage cushion is performed by pouring a layer of sand and gravel, each layer is tamped with high quality.
If the pit is airtight, then the height of the layers can be 10-15 cm. On top of the drainage pad, either put a finished reinforced concrete slab or make a concrete screed.
If a filter pit is being built, then the layer of crushed stone should be at least 20 cm so that the drains are better cleaned and the bottom does not silt up longer.
Next, the walls of the tank are strengthened, that is, brickwork is performed, concrete rings or plastic containers are installed, depending on the chosen construction material.
If a sealed tank is being built, then after the walls have been strengthened, they are waterproofed.
At this stage, the connection of the supply pipeline to the receiving tank is also carried out. The connection between the pipe and the tank must be airtight, but not rigid, so that it does not collapse under the action of ground movements. It is convenient to use rubber couplings.

At a distance of about 40 cm from the surface of the earth, an overlap for the pit is arranged. As a rule, a ready-made reinforced concrete slab with a hatch hole is used as a ceiling. If desired, such a slab can be cast on your own, having previously built the formwork.
Alternatively, thick boards can be used for the construction of the floor, but in this case, it will turn out to be less durable.
A hatch must be made into the ceiling to check the filling of the pit and pumping out its contents.
It is advisable to install a ventilation pipe on the cover. Indeed, in the process of decomposition of waste, various gases are formed, including methane, which are explosive. Therefore, it is better to provide for the availability of ventilation.
From above, the overlap can be covered with soil. The soil must be poured with a mound to prevent rainwater from flowing into the pit.

So, if you plan to arrange a local sewage system, the construction of a drain pit is one of the simplest, but at the same time, convenient and practical options. It will not hurt for beginners in the construction business to visually see how to make a drain pit - a video describing the stages of work can be found on construction sites.