Where is the fuse located on the Rens boiler. Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, geysers, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation. The panel gives incorrect errors

With the development of modern low-rise construction and gas networks, the boiler has become familiar household appliance in every house or apartment. Basically, after installation, the boiler does not cause any trouble to users. Modern boilers operate entirely in offline and require only regular Maintenance or inspection. In our opinion, the average operating time of the units before the first breakdown is from 4 to 6 years. Some users face problems even after 9 years, and some, on the contrary, earlier. In this article, I will tell you what can be done if the boiler simply does not turn on, and I will also consider the most common malfunctions of gas boilers. Under the concept of "does not turn on" there can be completely different problems:

No indication (display off)

The boiler does not light up

The boiler does not work in any particular mode

Therefore, it is necessary to consider in detail these different situations separately. I draw your attention to the fact that to eliminate some malfunctions, user intervention is sufficient, but in some cases it is necessary to call a qualified specialist.

The boiler does not turn on - there is no indication

Almost all modern gas boilers equipped with a control board and an information panel with a liquid crystal display or LED indicators. If there is no indication, first of all it is necessary to make sure that power is supplied to the boiler. Usually the electrical connection of the boiler is carried out through a separate “machine” - check whether it is turned on or not.

Most the right way make sure that power is supplied to the boiler - check with a multimeter in voltmeter mode the presence of 220V at the point of connection to the boiler board. If there is no voltage, it is necessary to localize and fix the problem. AT real life it happens that someone from the household simply pulled the plug out of the socket.

Protective fuses

You should also pay attention to the location of the fuses. In some boilers, depending on the model (for example, Ariston, Buderus, Vaillant), the fuses are located on the board itself, and in some before connecting to the board. If there are no problems with connecting electricity to the boiler, you should check the integrity of the fuses (with the same multitester in the “ringing” mode).

If the fuses are intact and there are 220 volts at the control points, it is likely that the boiler does not turn on due to a malfunction in the control electronics.

If during the test it turned out that the fuses were blown, then there was at least a problem with the power supply. In this case, it would be correct to first examine the actuators (fan, pump, priority valve) and boiler wiring for short circuits. However, in practice, even representatives specialized organizations simply replace the fuses with serviceable ones and check the boiler in operation. If the fuses blow again, then turn off the high-voltage parts of the boiler in sequence to detect problem area(this is not a recommendation for action! This approach is not entirely correct).

Several spare fuses are usually supplied with the boiler.

If the fuses blow due to damage to any of the actuators, it must be replaced (or the cause of the circuit eliminated). In the case when it is proved that the mechanisms (and wiring) are exactly in good order, the control board itself remains. Blown fuses indicate that there was an unacceptable load on the electronics (thunderstorm, pulse power surge in the network), so a short circuit on the board itself can also be the cause of the malfunction.

The ingress of water (moisture) on the board

Water ingress is one of the most annoying situations. Although the board is in a protective case, due to leakage or condensation, water can get inside. Often it gets into the box through the wires. Water ingress almost always causes damage to the board, in most cases irreparable. On the board from water, characteristic stains and oxidation will be visible.

Varistor and power supply

Often, if the boiler board is damaged, burnt or charred elements can be visually detected on it. The varistor is protective element board, which is installed at the input of the circuit. Most of the time it's a detail. round shape of blue color(but not required). When the rated load is exceeded, the varistor is destroyed and opens the circuit. In some cases, if the varistor has helped prevent damage to the electronics, biting it out is sufficient to repair the break in the circuit. Important! Although the board circuit will work without a varistor, remember that the varistor is a safety device and right decision will replace it. The power supply is a microcircuit, which is also damaged primarily during power surges or during a thunderstorm. If cracks or damage are visible on it, diagnostics and will probably be required.

Display Board

For some boiler models (Vaillant, Ariston, Navien), the control unit consists of a main board and an information board (display board). The boiler may also not turn on if the display board breaks down. The display board, unlike the main one, is cheaper, but most often it is not repaired. In this case, the only way to detect a malfunction is to replace a known-good part.

If the gas boiler is working, there is an indication on the display, but it does not start or gives errors, further diagnostics are required.

The boiler does not light up

If the gas boiler does not light up, then in most cases the information panel will display an error signal indicating its number or code, by which you can roughly find out in which boiler system the malfunction occurred and how critical it is. In all double-circuit boilers switching between summer-winter operation modes is provided. AT summer mode the boiler will not turn on for space heating (the same is true when using weather-compensated automation or thermostats).

If the boiler does not ignite and does not make any attempts to turn on (idle) when necessary, this may be a malfunction of the electronics, but such cases are rare and relate to specific boiler models.

Usually, if there is a malfunction that prevents the boiler from working properly, the user will receive an error. That is, if the boiler does not ignite, you need to determine the error code and find its meaning in the equipment manual. Error codes with descriptions are always listed there.

Next, consider the most common boiler malfunctions that users encounter. It is worth mentioning here that mostly all modern boilers have the same basic structure and operation procedure. However, to solve a specific problem on a specific boiler, you should at least read the instructions for this boiler.

Several unsuccessful ignition attempts

This is the very first error code for most hardware manufacturers. For BAXI E01 boilers, for Arison 501 boilers, for Vaillant F28. The ignition of the gas-air mixture in the combustion chamber will occur under two conditions: the presence of gas on the burner nozzles and the presence of a spark. The gas enters the burner through gas valve, the spark is generated by a transformer on the control board (or remote). A separate case should be noted when ignition occurs, but the boiler cannot detect the presence of a flame and goes out (closes the gas supply valve).

The most common causes:

Phasing error. Often, gas boiler boards require respect for the polarity of the connection. For the average user, this means that the position of the plug in the socket matters. If the polarity of the connection is reversed, the boiler does not see the presence of a flame, continues to ignite (crackling of the electrode) even when there is already a flame on the burner, then it turns off due to an accident. Even if you did not touch the plug, the polarity could change at the substation!

Ignition or flame ionization electrode. It can be separate or combined. The main problems can be associated with contamination (oxidation) of the electrode or its gap relative to the burner. A dirty ionization electrode prevents the board from detecting the presence of a flame and operation stops.

High voltage wire. High voltage It is produced by a transformer and transmitted through a wire to the electrode, where it pierces the air gap between the burner and the electrode with a spark. If a characteristic crack is heard, but the sparks on the burner are not visually visible, it is possible that the breakdown occurs somewhere else. For example, there is a microcrack in the insulation of a high-voltage wire, and the breakdown occurs at the place where the insulation on the case is broken.

No gas on the burner. The gas valve controls the gas supply to the burner: it opens and modulates (gas dosing). The gas valves are regulated and controlled by the control board. Accordingly, the cause of the problems may be a malfunction of the valve (or the need for adjustment), its electrical part, or the control circuit on the board. Checking this device must be entrusted to a specialist. The lack of gas can also be due to external factors: a malfunction of the meter, dirty filters.

Control fee. In some cases, the lack of ignition or flame control is caused by a malfunction of the boiler's main board. This can only be considered after others have been accurately checked. possible reasons which are described above.

Insufficient draft (fan does not turn on)

Also a popular issue. If there is a problem with the removal of combustion products, the boiler will not start and ignite until it is completely eliminated. Such malfunctions and their solution are described in more detail in a separate article -.

Insufficient water pressure (make-up required)

Traditional gas boilers operate in closed system heating, respectively, so that the boiler does not turn into a hydrogen bomb, there must be a minimum water pressure inside the heat exchanger (in fact, the presence of water and circulation there). The pressure is controlled by a special sensor - a pressure sensor. An additional mechanical pressure gauge is provided for the user in the boilers. Although the systems are closed, the pressure in them can drop over time (for example, water escapes through leaks in the joints). As soon as the water pressure in the boiler drops below the minimum level (0.5 - 0.7 bar), the boiler sensor detects a malfunction and blocks the operation. In most cases, you just need to study the readings of a mechanical pressure gauge and recharge the system according to the instructions for the boiler.

The boiler does not work in DHW or heating mode

And finally, situations when the boiler does not work in any particular mode. They happen much less frequently than others. In this case, it is likely that the boiler will need to be diagnosed by a specialist. The process of ignition and operation of the boiler in different modes practically the same, except that in different modes there may be different power. In DHW heating mode, the boiler output is usually full, while in heating mode it can be minimal. You can read about problems in the operation of the DHW mode in a separate article.

Summary

In this article, we examined the most common cases when the boiler does not turn on or does not ignite. No one anywhere on the Internet will definitely tell you why your boiler does not turn on, this requires at least an external examination. This article will help you get familiar with possible situations and is written on the basis of our statistics for several years.

In the event of a malfunction, it is necessary to determine the error and read the boiler manual. Also, for many models of boilers, descriptions of errors with recommendations are on our website. Malfunctions can be simple, which the user can eliminate by himself, and complex, requiring qualified assistance and spare parts. We strongly do not recommend performing any actions with the boiler, if there is no complete understanding of its structure and principles of operation, turn off protective devices or change the scheme of operation of the boiler to restore its operation. If there is a problem, it needs to be fixed! If the cause of the malfunction is not completely clear to you, it is better to call a specialist.

Ferroli boilers - Experts answer questions

Question:

The Ferroli Domiproject f24 boiler worked fine for a year. Then he began to work intermittently. It works for a few seconds, goes out and lights up again and so on all the time. Both during heating operation and during DHW operation. Checked the exhaust system, everything is fine. Replacing the pressure switch did nothing. I took off the plugs on the top cover of the boiler, it did not help. When I remove the cover of the sealed chamber, it works fine. What
could be the reason?

Answer:

If the boiler does not show any error and the voltage is more than 200 volts, then the heat exchanger for heating is most likely clogged. You can check by connecting the heating sensor for a few minutes in the air or, which is easier, by reducing the gas with a tap in front of the boiler. If the burning interval has increased, then flushing is necessary.

Question:

The Ferroli Domiproject f 24 boiler does not cope, the coolant temperature does not rise above 40, and the potentiometer is 70. The heated area is 70m2. And it's 12 degrees outside. What should be done?

Answer:

So there is not enough flow. Here's what to do: check the return filter, check the pump power and see if the main heat exchanger is clogged.

Question:

When the heating system is turned off, the pressure in the system drops to 0 (approximately a day to 0.5 with the ECO turned off; or to 0 with the ECO turned on in a few hours) and the DHW, respectively, also cuts down. I add water. The pressure drops again after a while. When the heating is on, the pressure does not drop or does not drop very noticeably. Feeding 1 time in 1-2 months.

Answer:

First of all, you need to pump the expansion tank with nitrogen - air up to 0.8 bar - at a pressure on the water pressure gauge in the boiler = 0. And then look for a leak, check blast valve whether water is leaving it.

Question:

After installing the Ferroli Domiproject 24 boiler, the hot water pressure was almost at the pressure level cold water. Six months later, the pressure dropped. What could be the reasons? If this is scale formation in the secondary heat exchanger, then how to rinse it and how, as well as how to avoid scale formation?

Answer:

This boiler does not secondary heat exchanger, here it is bithermic, and scale is formed in it in winter mode, especially if the flow sensor is not working and if there is a leak DHW water. You can rinse with sulfamic acid, for example, or hydrochloric acid.

Question:

Tell me please, if the boiler is completely out, nothing burns and does not turn on, although it comes to the board 220, the fuses and the varistor are intact, what burned out?

Answer:

Switching power supply on the board.

Question:

The Ferolli boiler worked normally for 2 weeks, after the arrival of the master from the service center for the first start-up, the hot water lights up and breaks off the flame. If I screw on the gas cock, it works fine. Heating works fine and with fully open gas valve. How to eliminate?

Answer:

If you can adjust the gas valve yourself in the instructions, the procedure is described quite well, if you are not sure, it is better to call the specialist again. It is necessary to set the MAX on the gas valve - use the "reset" button to go to the test mode, press the heating knob three times in the MAX if it breaks the flame with the key 10 counterclockwise, and then use the "reset" button to go to the test mode to adjust the power for heating and ignition with the heating temperature knob - power for heating with water temperature knob - ignition. Procedure 5 minutes

Question:

Hello, I have a problem with the hot water supply, the ventilation hatches are regularly turned off and the heating is turned off with the hatches closed, the pipe is clean, the fan works, and sometimes it also displays an error. How to be?

Answer:

If everything is in order with the chimney, then the sensor - the pressure switch needs to be checked.

Question:

Ferroli boiler in hot water mode. Periodically, in the standby mode, the upper and lower LEDs start flashing (simultaneously). When hot water is turned on, after 3 minutes the burner goes out, although the burner on LED is on. Also, periodically, when hot water or heating is turned on, the upper and lower LEDs start flashing alternately. ON-LiNE stabilizer with output inverter
sinusoid and 220. The boiler has one heating season.

Answer:

First, check the dual temperature sensor.

Question:

The Ferroli Domiproject boiler was in operation for 1 month, worked normally and one night began to make strange sounds similar to strong boiling (it was heard through closed door). The unit was turned off until the morning, in the morning I checked the pump, the supply voltage (there is a stabilizer) - everything is normal. I started the boiler - the sound returned, I think scale formed - I flushed the heat exchanger, nothing helped - at a temperature of 40 and above, cacophony begins if you open hot water- the sound disappears, you close it - it appears again.

Answer:

Perhaps the return filter is clogged, low flow through the heat exchanger - the heating system.

Question:

When the heating circuit is heated, above 55 degrees, the heat exchanger starts to make noise, as if boiling. Can the temperature in the DHW be exceeded due to a large circulation in the heating circuit? I set the temperature with the heating potentiometer from 45 to 60 degrees. For half an hour the boiler gained temperature, then it began to make hissing sounds, did not wait any longer, turned the knob to 55, the burner turned off.

I watched the gas pressure parameters, after ignition in the furnace, the pressure on the burner maximum, after about 10 seconds, drops to a minimum, so it burns for about five minutes, then it starts adding 10 pascals, and stops. Somewhere at three millibars, it starts to make noise, it works for another three minutes, then after gaining a temperature of 55-60 degrees, it turns off.

I cleaned the boiler (pump, heat exchanger, furnace, filter) - it didn’t help, then I set the lower gas pressure setting to 40% lower than the passport one - the noise disappeared at 60 degrees. Paradox - take off the lid closed chamber combustion - the boiler does not make noise. You dress - it starts to make noise. What could be?

Answer:

Or scale in the heating circuit or some kind of dirt. It is necessary to flush with a booster, if it helps - well, it doesn’t help - install another heat exchanger or another boiler with separate heat exchangers.

Question:

I have the following problem. Boiler Ferroli DOMIproject C24. When hot water is turned off circulation pump the heating circuit may not turn on. It does not turn on until the burner is ignited for heating. The water in the boiler boils and the red LED starts flashing. The boiler is in trouble. This happens several times a day. How can you solve this problem yourself?

Answer:

Clean the DHW flow sensor.

Question:

The 2A fuses on the Ferroli DOMIproject C24 boiler burn out. What can be done?

Answer:

Just like that, fuses cannot burn, you need to look for where the circuit occurs, leading to the fuse burning. First, check the operation of the pump.

Question:

I bought a Ferolli boiler and installed it. Uninterruptible SMART APC 750. Hot water is coming no problem. I turn on the heating, it gives an error "the overheating protection has tripped". The pump is not working. What to do?

Answer:

Unlock the pump shaft. If this does not help, connect the pump directly. If not working, replace pump. If it doesn't help, pay for repairs.

Question:

There is such a problem. The Ferroli Domiproect F24 boiler, when hot water is turned on, the heating is periodically turned off, and then it starts up again. What could be the problem? The board has been replaced.

Answer:

It is necessary to adjust the operation of the gas valve - minimum power.

Question:

Tell me what could be. When I turn on the boiler, the red and yellow lights immediately turn on (they often flash, what can be in addition to the sensor? And another related question, if you remove and bridge the contacts that fit the sensor, then the flashing of the lights should stop if the problem is in the sensor, I think correctly or wrong?

Answer:

If the wires are bridged, the error does not disappear, the sensor needs to be replaced.

Question:

Boiler Ferroli DOMIcompact c24. Relieves pressure to 0. There are no leaks in the system. It seems to reset when hot water is turned on. Cold water supply pressure 2-3 atmospheres. The boiler worked for two years.

Answer:

There may be a breakdown between the circuits, and the pressure drops below the cold water supply pressure due to ejection. You most likely have a different problem! Expansion tank lost air. The heating system cools down and the pressure drops when you turn on the DHW.

Question:

Tell me, is it possible to adjust the minimum pressure switch so that the boiler turns on at a pressure of 0.8 bar?

Answer:

There is an adjusting screw on the pressure sensor under the cap on top.

Question:

Boiler Ferroli Domicompact C 24 kW. There is a problem. The chimney is clean, the pressure of water and gas is normal, but the boiler works as it pleases. I set it to 45C, it heats up normally, then like crazy. Turns on at any time. There is a leak in the make-up tap into the heating system, but after make-up, I turn off the taps for supplying and discharging hot water. What do you advise?

Answer:

Repair the make-up valve, check the NTC sensor (replace). According to the NTC, the boiler turns on for heating. When t changes, the NTC resistance changes. If the readings are incorrect, then the inclusion of the boiler is inadequate. Alternatively, you can check the variable on the board.

Question:

Boiler Ferroli domicompact F 24, 4.5 years. Heat exchanger leaked last year. They called the master - soldered. This winter, another problem appeared: The heating temperature jumped to 60 C, and the pipes heated up to 80 C. The pressure went off scale to 3.5 bar. Or it drops to 0. Tell me what's the problem?

Answer:

Replace NTC, bleed volume compensator and do preventive maintenance.

Question:

The Ferroli Domicompact F24 boiler works with the jumper removed room thermostat. The problem came up when I connected the thermostat (COMPUTHERM Q7 RF). For some time everything works fine, then after opening the contacts in the thermostat receiver, the boiler continued to work as it did. Depending on the position of the temperature controller, heating occurs, heating is turned off, the pump drives water. Thermostat
connected correctly and works on the circuit-opening - checked by the tester.

Moreover, when to turn it off completely i.e. the jumper is removed, the boiler is working, the position of the DHW regulator is on or off, it does not matter - everything is the same. Sometimes after turning on the DHW, it turns off and then (as expected) it works normally from the thermostat. Sometimes, after turning off the thermostat, it tries to start, but immediately turns off, so several times, after which the pump works for 6 minutes and the boiler turns off. If possible, can you tell me what's wrong?

Answer:

Check the wires from the board to the room thermostat connector. When the circuit is closed (or the thermostat closes the contacts) - the boiler works for heating, when it is open - it waits for the contacts to close to turn on the heating.

Question:

There is such a problem: the Ferroli DomiCompact F24 boiler works fine from the 220V network, and when the Leoton 500 watt converter is connected, the gas does not ignite. What to do?

Answer:

Turn the fork over.

Question:

I have a Ferolli DOMIcompact C24 boiler. Everything worked fine, and then suddenly, when the heating of the apartment was turned on, the pressure on the boiler began to rise sharply to 3 bar. To make it clearer: The boiler does not work - I set the pressure to 1 (I hear a click, the light stops flashing). I set the temperature to 40. The device starts up and starts heating the water.

Literally, in 5 minutes, the pressure increases sharply to 2.5 or more. (This was not the case before). I drain the water from the system (through the return valve), thereby reducing the pressure. And so I do until the water heats up to the desired temperature. When the water has warmed up, I lower the water from the tap and set the pressure to 2 bar. When the boiler works constantly at this temperature and does not turn off (in winter), the pressure remains unchanged (sometimes it slightly increases).

And when you turn off the heating of the heating system, the pressure drops below 1 and the device does not ignite. You have to open the make-up tap and draw water to increase the pressure to start the boiler. It's summer now and the heating system is not working. I set the pressure to 1.5 to heat the water. It's been like this for 2 months now. Tell me, what's the problem?

Answer:

The problem is the lack of air in the expansion tank.

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I have a "Hydrosta-250" boiler. After a power surge, the fuses burned out, changed, the boiler turned on. He opened the hot water, and 2-3 seconds - and the "Pump new" fuse burns out. What could be and how to find out?

South Korean double-circuit wall-mounted gas boilers "HYDROSTA" are designed for both heating and hot water supply of country houses-cottages. The boiler settings are monitored by the built-in microprocessor, which controls the set value of the heat carrier temperature, while smoothly regulating the boiler power. The boiler operating modes can also be controlled manually using a room remote control. Using a digital indicator, you can control the operation of the HYDROSTA wall-mounted boilers in all modes, and the sound alarm of the room thermostat makes it possible to receive the necessary information even at a sufficient distance from the heating unit. The operation of all units of the boiler is monitored by a telemetry system, and, if necessary, transmits a signal to the control panel about the malfunctions that have occurred. Exhaust gases are removed through a separate chimney channel by a forced ventilation system.

Thus, wall-mounted gas boilers "HYDROSTA" differ in their class in better side both in terms of quality and reliability.

However, the characteristics of the "Hydrosta-250" boiler, as well as any other heat generator, correspond to the specified parameters only when it is supplied with an energy carrier and power supply, which are also parameters specified by the standards. So, for example, the voltage in the network should be within 220V ± 10%, which means - not less than 200V and not more than 240V. It should be noted that the service life household appliances and its electronics is determined not only by the brand of a foreign manufacturer, but also by the quality of the mains power supply in their native country. Any sudden power surges and even a simple power outage can and will cause equipment breakdown.

Usually, the main reasons for the manifestation of a surge in the mains voltage above the permissible value can be breaks in the power line, as a result of which a voltage imbalance may occur. In addition, lightning strikes near power lines can also be one of the causes of overvoltage. In any case, if household appliances fail, you need to file a lawsuit against the culprit of the power failure to compensate for the damage incurred. To identify the culprit, the owner of suburban real estate should apply to the local organization "Energosbyt". As a rule, the specialists of this organization carry out an inspection and examination of the scene of the incident and draw up an appropriate act. The conclusions obtained as a result of the survey are notified to the applicant no later than 30 calendar days from the date of application.

As for this case, it is not possible to identify the cause of the fuse blown at a distance from the boiler. You should contact the nearest service center, whose specialists can sort out the cause of the malfunction on the spot and troubleshoot the boiler.

From this article you will learn what problems can arise in the automation of gas boilers, why it is not possible to ignite the igniter, because of which the boiler can turn off for no reason, and most importantly, we will figure out what actions need to be taken to diagnose and eliminate this malfunction.

The owners of non-volatile gas boilers are probably familiar with the situation when, for some reason, it is not possible to ignite the boiler, or a lot of time is spent on ignition. In this case, the problem lies in the automation of the boiler.

Today, in domestic and imported gas equipment, the EUROSIT 630 gas valve is most often used. It is he who performs the functions of maintaining set temperature coolant and, in case of an emergency, completely shuts off the gas supply to the burners. Further start-up of boilers with such automation is possible only manually. However, not always the reason for the emergency shutdown of the boiler is a real accident.

Let's try to understand this using the example of the Zhytomyr-3 boiler. Of the automation, it provides protection against the loss of the flame on the igniter and violation of traction.

Note: All gas hazardous work must be carried out exclusively by representatives of specialized organizations that have the appropriate permits. Therefore, this article is provided for informational purposes only. Also, this article will help to control the work of the master and, possibly, save you from the need to purchase unnecessary spare parts.

Let's decide what we will call the ignition of the igniter. The EUROSIT 630 valve control knob allows you to switch the boiler to three main modes:

• disabled;
• ignition;
• temperature adjustment (1-7).

To ignite the pilot burner (igniter), it is necessary to turn the control knob to the “ignition” (spark) position, press it and use the piezo ignition button to ignite the pilot burner. Next, the handle is held for a few seconds (no more than 30) and released. The igniter should continue to burn. This is what we will call the ignition of the igniter. If the igniter goes out, you need to repeat the procedure a few more times. If this does not help, you need to look for a malfunction.

At the moment of ignition of the igniter, the flame heats the thermocouple, which in turn generates EMF (approximately 25 mV for serviceable SIT thermocouples), which enters through the circuit of the automation sensor (sensors) to the solenoid valve.

By pressing the handle of the gas valve, we manually open the solenoid valve, supplying gas to the igniter, which, in case correct operation equipment, is held by the EMF generated by the thermocouple and remains in the open position after the handle is released. The thermocouple itself performs the function of protection against loss of flame on the igniter. The sensors in the circuit are normally closed and, when triggered, open their contacts, ensuring a complete shutdown of the boiler.

Preparation for work

To carry out work to identify and eliminate problems with the ignition of the igniter, we need the following tool:

• open-end wrenches No. 9, 10, 12;
• pliers;
• multimeter;
• flat head screwdriver;
• alcohol.

Getting Started

To determine the cause of the malfunction, check the thermocouple circuit - the solenoid valve. First, check the thrust sensor. In this boiler, it is located on the flue. To do this, remove the two terminals from the sensor.

We close the two terminals together, they should connect tightly (for this you can press them a little with pliers).

We are trying to ignite the igniter. If this was done, the cause of the malfunction is in the thrust sensor. However, do not rush to change it. Let's check it out first.

Note: in this work, we dismantle the sensor in order to show the features of its installation on the boiler and the marking. You don't need to do this to check.

We unscrew the two screws securing the draft sensor to the boiler flue.

Please note that the sensor is not attached close to the flue body, but is mounted on paronite gaskets. This is necessary in order to reduce the heating of the sensor through its contact with the body, and also to provide a gap between the hole in the gas duct and the sensor plane.

We examine the sensor. Its contacts must be firmly attached to the case. They should not be oxidized. The sensor rating (temperature at which the sensor contact opens) in this case is 75 °С (designation on the housing L75C).

We check the thrust sensor with a tester, measuring its resistance. It should be minimal (equal to the resistance of the probes) - 1-2 ohms. If the sensor does not ring, it is definitely necessary to replace it with a similar one (with the corresponding response temperature).

If the sensor managed to ring, we wipe the sensor contacts and the circuit terminals with alcohol, press them with pliers and dry them. We mount the sensor in place and connect it. We are trying to ignite.

If the ignition was successful, the cause of the malfunction was found and eliminated.

Be sure to check the draft after ignition of the main burner. To do this, you can bring your hand to the place where the thrust sensor is installed. No heat should escape from this hole. If this happens, it is necessary to eliminate the cause of insufficient traction. In this case, the sensor works correctly.

Attention! It is strictly forbidden to operate the boiler with a faulty chimney!

We remove the terminals from the contacts of the traction breaker and measure the resistance of the circuit. It should be no more than 3 ohms.

If this condition is met, we perform the following actions. With the key No. 9, we unscrew the nut that fastens the thermocouple to the draft breaker. With the key number 12, we unscrew the traction chopper half a turn, which consists of two parts: a brass sleeve and a plastic insert.

We take out plastic insert with contacts and unscrew the part completely.

Checking the thermocouple. We connect it directly to the solenoid valve (the place where the traction chopper was installed). We fix it with key number 9.

We make the ignition of the igniter. If it was not possible to produce it, the cause of the malfunction is most likely in the thermocouple. The solenoid valve fails extremely rarely.

Let's look at the thermocouple. In some cases, the thermocouple is repairable. It happens that the contact of the thermocouple disappears. This is not a reason to replace, it is enough to solder it.

It is important that the dielectric gasket is intact.

Ensure that the thermocouple is correctly positioned in the igniter flame. The tip of the thermocouple must be immersed in the flame.

To adjust the position of the thermocouple relative to the igniter flame, it is necessary to loosen the nut securing the thermocouple to the pilot burner with a key No. 10. When moving the thermocouple, it is necessary to set it in correct position and secure with key no. 10.

To make a final verdict on replacement, the EMF generated by the thermocouple can be measured. To do this, it is necessary to ignite the igniter, and, while holding the valve knob pressed, measure the EMF between the thermocouple contact and its body. The optimal value should be at least 18 mV. If the thermocouple is in good condition, we will clean the parts of the traction breaker with alcohol, and also wipe the thermocouple contact. Especially if it had to be soldered.

We assemble the traction chopper in the reverse order, connect a thermocouple to it. Strongly crimp parts should not be. Efforts should be enough to ensure reliable contact. We crimp the terminals with pliers and, after wiping them with alcohol, we try to ignite.

Performing all of the above operations will surely help you troubleshoot your boiler.

Another cause of problems with ignition may be insufficient gas pressure on the igniter. This is due to a clogged injector. To clean it, it is necessary to release the fastening nut with a key number 10 copper tube igniter and remove the jet.

Advice: you can lightly tap the igniter to make it easier to remove the jet.

We clean the hole of the residential jet copper wire. Violation of the hole size is not allowed!

At the moments of the most intensive gas consumption, the pressure in the central main pipe may drop. Accordingly, the gas pressure on the igniter can also decrease. To do this, it may be necessary to adjust the gas pressure on the igniter. We unscrew the screw securing the decorative trim and remove it.

Adjustment is carried out by turning the screw on the valve. Turning it counterclockwise increases the gas pressure on the igniter.

These tips will help you deal with the ignition problems of your boiler. In practice, the most common problems are with contacts, and not with sensors. Therefore, if each time you ignite the igniter, you have to hold the valve handle longer and longer, we advise you to simply clean the contacts and tighten the automation terminals. In order to avoid real problems with the operation of automation, we recommend that you clean the boiler in time.