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How to really intimidate a rider? Horses know several ways. However, this does not mean that they should be feared. You just have to know how to handle a situation where the horse wants the rider to be terrified.

If you are already completely "limp", then it will not be easy to pull yourself together, so it is best not to be afraid of anything from the very beginning. You need to keep the situation under control and not let the horse take the lead.

The horse bites and kicks

Many horses bite and hit with their hind legs because they have experienced severe stressful situations in the past that they remember still. Maybe people were mistreatedwith them - scoffed and beat, as a result, horses began to perceive any person as a threat.

To help such a horse, first try to understand the reasons for its aggressive behavior. And, if it's not about bad memories, perhaps it's about reacting to some current circumstance. If the horse is constantly in the stable and does not walk in the levada, does not work much or is very tired, then as a protest he may start to beat or bite.

The horse can react to your actions as well: if you put too much pressure on it, it gets nervous. Horses, like humans, need space and may object to your intrusion into it.

What to do?

While working with your horse, be calm and relaxed, but watch its behavior and try to anticipate its actions in advance. As a herd animal, the horse needs a leader. Show her that you are the leader. However, you should not abuse power. Usually, a horse will warn you that it is about to bite by either pinching its ears or frowning.

The horse must understand that he cannot invade your personal space, unless you invite him yourself. If you see that the horse is about to bite you, stand up straight and sharply raise your hand up - not in order to hit it, but in order to show that you are not going to flee from it. If the horse is in a halter, tug on it to keep it at a sufficient distance from you, or force it to step back.

When the horse stops bullying you, release the pressure, but stay put. Soon, she will understand not only that you cannot be pushed around, but that you are not going to hurt her. Each time the horse tries to bite you, you should take the same action. If the horse lunges at you, try sprinkling water on it with a spray bottle. This should stop and scare her a little.

Kisses and hugs usually invite the horse to "play", and therefore, she understands that no one forbade biting during the game. Such "entertainment" can be really dangerous for you.

If the horse kicks with his hind legs, show her that you can control her. Pull on the chombur and turn her head towards you, and in the meantime, lightly slap the end of the chombur on her hind legs, forcing the horse to step aside. If you do, stop her. Repeat this as often as possible. If your horse kicks when you touch his leg, try using a whip with a “glove” attached to it. You can touch her leg from a distance until the horse stops struggling. When she fulfills your request, give her a reassuring pat on the neck.

If the horse still bites or kicks with its hind legs despite all your precautions, it is probably dangerous. Get the advice of a horse behavior professional!

Quacks

Zakidka - a sharp stop of the horse and a categorical refusal to move forward. Very often it is accompanied by the fact that the horse rears up, upsets or turns in place. If the horse regularly repeats rejections, he has developed a bad habit. This usually happens when walking in the field or in the forest, in front of an obstacle or when other horses are left behind, such as when she does not want to leave the carriage parking lot at a competition.

After a refueling, the horse can shitthen turn around to the side, stand on its hind legs or jump sharply in the opposite direction.

Why?

● In the wild, horses, sensing danger, flee. They would rather run away from the problem than face it. Riders should learn to cope with this reaction and teach the horse not to be afraid of "monsters".

● Some horses throw themselves over because they know they can overpower a person. This often happens when a beginner or an insecure rider is riding.

● Bouncing can be a signal that the horse is experiencing pain in the back, neck or mouth.

What to do?

Check the horse's back and teeth right from the start.

Going for walks with other horses will give you both confidence.

Resolve the problem as soon as it occurs. Otherwise, you can close up and your horse is with you. Try singing while driving - it helps a lot!

If the horse throws itself up and you are a confident rider, it will make you more collected. Perhaps you feel that you cannot do it alone, then seek help from a more experienced rider or instructor. Ask them to ride your pet for a ride to understand the situation and help you deal with it.

A well-groomed horse is less prone to rejections. Take the time to practice dressage, especially pay attention to how she performs the command "Go!" Remember: you are the leader for the horse. She is obliged to obey you.

Work on your relationship with the horse. Doing simple exercises on the ground will help you strengthen your leadership status.

Treat nature walks as an extension of your horse's training.

While walking, make her work properly and do various exercises. Make transitions, side movements, etc. If the horse is busy listening to you, it is unlikely that he will remember the refunds.

The horse will always warn you when it is about to throw.

Typical signs of a refusal: The horse squeezes, lifts its head, pricks up its ears, bounces in place, or slows down. Send the horse forward, pushing it with the body, click with your tongue. If that doesn't work, turn the horse a small volt and walk it 4-5 times, then push the horse forward. If it still tilts, turn it the other way five or six paces, and then push it forward again. Repeat this until the horse relaxes and calms down.

When preparing for a walk, choose the right equipment, and for yourself - a protective helmet and (if possible) a safety vest.

If you find yourself in an unpleasant situation, do not be afraid to get off the horse and walk it in your hands until it calms down. Do not take this as a defeat: the horse will be grateful to you for taking responsibility for what is happening and helping him.

The horse "drags"

When the horse "carried" it is scary. You are confused, the horse panicked and became uncontrollable. Anything can await you ahead: a collision with a car, people, obstacles, but your horse doesn't care. Fortunately, this type of situation is extremely rare but difficult to deal with. When riders say their horse has taken off, they usually mean that the horse has gotten out of control for a while. This is also scary, but not so dangerous.

Why?

● The horse is not driven or disobedient.

● The horse is overly cheerful.

● The horse was looking forward to a gallop.

● The horse is overfed.

● The rider indulges the horse too much and cannot handle it.

● The horse is in pain due to poorly fitted equipment.

What to do?

A well-groomed horse will most likely not think about carrying.

As long as the horse is not sufficiently trained, avoid situations that might provoke resistance. For example, do not go on nature walks with a large number of horses.

If you are unsure of how to deal with different situations, ask an experienced person for help or advice.

Resume dressage with your horse. The horse must obey your commands, so work harder on transitions.

If you always do an extended canter in the same place, your horse is used to it and may play out when you get to that stretch of the path. Therefore, every time you are out for a walk, change the speed and driving routes.

If the horse is playing hard, do an extended canter uphill. The horse will not be able to go uphill too quickly and will rather get tired.

If the horse does, sit up straight as leaning forward weakens your position. Build a bridge from the reins over the horse's withers and do short and very strong half halts. If you can, turn the horse up a large volt and then gradually reduce it until you can regain control of the horse.

As a last resort, you can change the iron to a more stringent one (for example, a pelm or an Olympic bit with three rings). Try several types of iron to see which one your horse reacts best to.

Horse sweeping an obstacle

Jumping is a common problem with show jumping horses.

Why?

• The obstacle is too difficult or unfamiliar for the horse to be sure he can overcome.
• You did not approach the obstacle in a straight line, or the gallop was not energetic enough.
• The equipment is not suitable for the horse, it may hurt.
• Light: The horse's eyes do not readjust too quickly when it comes out of darkness into light, so the horse may not see obstacles.
• Bad ground.
• Pain: If the horse is constantly skirting, ask your veterinarian to examine him.
• The horse is tired or lazy.
• Rider error. If you land incorrectly, you jerk the horse's mouth or land inaccurately after jumping. Eventually, the horse may run out of patience.

What to do?

If the horse has become constantly skirting obstacles, return to the initial training. Trotting over the poles will make the horse move forward and straight. When the horse begins to confidently pass through them, place an obstacle instead of the last pole, continue to trot and overcome the obstacle as if it were a pole lying on the ground.

Maintain constant contact with the horse. If you throw the reins in front of an obstacle, the horse will have every reason to do what he wants.

To prevent the horse from escaping, place the keys along the wall of the arena. The use of the crosspieces helps the horse to move straight and you aim at the middle of the obstacle.

If the horse stops, don't panic. When approaching an obstacle, lead it straight, press your leg, and soon the horse will understand that it has no other choice but to jump.

Do not fight the horse for a long time. If she continues to walk away from the same obstacle, lower it so low that the horse feels confident overcoming it.

Train more to keep your horse from worrying about unusual obstacles. You should not jump high obstacles, let them be of different types. Use bales of straw, blue plastic, and barrels - anything that looks out of the ordinary.

Get yourself an assistant. It doesn't have to be an instructor. An experienced friend who can give you some guidance will build your confidence.

Horse kicks with hind legs

In the wild, horses kick with their hind legs, defending themselves against predators that might jump on their backs. However, if the horse kicks backwards under the saddle, it is dangerous for the rider and therefore unacceptable.

Why?

● The horse is too agitated.

● She has excess energy.

● It is too cold and the horse has recently been shaved.

● The horse has a pain, more often all because of poorly fitted equipment.

● She plays.

● Habit: Horses often kick backwards when the rider gives the command to climb into a canter or when they land after an obstacle. The horse is difficult to wean from this.

● An inexperienced and inattentive rider who tugs at the horse's mouth will soon get bored. Beating backwards is a way of protest.

● The horse has a sensitive back.

● Sometimes the horse simply mocks the rider.

What to do?

Explore the physical causes first. Check the horse's back, gear, and teeth, and ask your veterinarian dietitian for dietary adjustments. You may be feeding your horse too much for its level of exercise.

If your horse is about to kick backwards, you can tell by some signs. At this point, you urgently need to do something - don't wait until it's too late.

If the horse lowers his head and slows down, lean strongly back, beyond the vertical line, take a shorter reins and lift the horse's head up. Your leg should be extended forward more than usual, and your heel should be down. Continue to propel the horse forward. It will be more difficult for her to kick backwards if her hind legs are loaded with the weight of the rider.

Riding on volts will help you: since the horse needs to balance, it will focus on it. When the horse realizes that he cannot kick backwards, he will stop doing so. Be firm and confident. If you lack confidence, seek support from more experienced riders.

The horse gets scared

A horse's fear is a natural reaction. If a horse is afraid of something, say, noise, people, dogs, etc., it can jump to the side without thinking about anything (just like it would react in the wild). "Aggravating" circumstances - cold wind and young age.

What to do?

Stay alert at all times. It is best if you spot the scary object before the horse even sees it.

If a horse has been scared of something at least once, it can be scared every time it passes this place, even if there is no longer something that terrified it.

Stay calm: Panic won't help you. Try to talk to the horse - this way you will be able to breathe regularly and evenly.

Do not be afraid of anything. If you yourself get scared, your horse will definitely feel it and react.

If you see something that the horse is likely to be frightened of, then when approaching this object, turn its head to the other side. Apply strong pressure with the inner rein and lightly pull the outer rein. Your leg should be behind the girth to push the horse's hind legs towards the object. Such actions are especially important on the road.

Remember that by turning the horse's head away from the scared object, you will have better control over the animal.

Once you have established control over the horse, turn its head so that it can see the frightening object. If the horse is calm, praise him. You will be safe if you try to keep your hands as close to the horse's neck as possible. If you feel that it is not safe to show your horse a fearful object, do not show it, but ride forward confidently.

A well groomed horse is never strong will not be frightened, and if it does, it will be easier to calm her down. Work on transitions, lateral movements, front and back turns. This will make the horse more agile and give him confidence in himself and in you.

The horse rears up

Rearing up or on the "candle" is especially dangerous - here even the most experienced rider will doubt himself. Only a professional can handle this. Do not try to fight the horse standing on the "candle" yourself.

Why?

● The habit of throwing up.

● Laziness is an attempt to avoid work.

● The rider is too rough.

● Too strict iron.

● The horse is required to collect more than it can handle at the moment.

What to do?

When the horse rears up, there is a danger that he will rise too high, lose his balance and fall back. Lean forward in advance and wrap your arms around the horse's neck. Do not grab onto the reins to stay in the saddle, as this can tip the horse onto you. When the horse is down on the ground, lift it vigorously into a trot. Moving forward will help you avoid further candles. If the horse obeys your command, praise him.

Paying close attention to your horse's behavior can help protect yourself early. To rears up, the horse must stop, raise its head and bring its hind legs underneath. When this happens, turn it a small volt and move it forward. To maintain a strong inward bend, actively work with your inner arm. Keep your hands down to keep the horse from raising its head. Until you get the horse no longer standing on the candle, do not ask him to start training.

Julia Brown, Hannah Roche.

02.03.2012 | How to rid a horse of bad habits?

Memories of unpleasant interactions with riders are fixed in the horse's memory as defensive conditioned reflexes, so first it is necessary to find out the cause of the undesirable behavior, and only then proceed to eradicate bad habits.

What to do if the horse does not allow to sit on itself?

It happens that when the rider lands, the horse kicks, rears up or bites. There may be several reasons for this behavior. It can be a young horse, or a horse that has not lost the habit of living in the herd. A horse that does not allow to sit on itself may be ticklish, or its back is full and it hurts. It may also be that the horse simply does not want to carry a human for some reason.

If the horse does not allow himself to sit down because he is afraid of the rider, then in no case should force and punishment be used. A shy horse needs to be calmed down with affectionate treatment, bring her treats. Gradually, the animal will develop a conditioned reflex, and the horse will finally stop responding inadequately to the rider.
The most common reason for the reluctance to put the rider in the saddle may be that the horse is stagnant. In this case, before getting into the saddle, you should thoroughly drive the horse on the line. At the very beginning of the lesson, allow the horse to gallop at any gait and jump, and when the animal calms down, demand movement at a walk and trot. After that, you can begin exercises to develop useful reflexes in the horse and extinguish harmful ones.

What if the horse rears up under the rider?

An experienced rider can easily recognize when the horse is about to rears up. Before that, the horse stops, brings its hind legs under the body, after which it pushes off with its front legs and makes a characteristic swing of its head. When the first signs of unwanted behavior are noticed, the rider should use legs or spurs to send the horse forward as quickly as possible. After several unsuccessful attempts, the animal will wean itself to rears up. In difficult cases, a string is used - a special part of the harness.

If the rider did not have time to catch the right moment, and the horse nevertheless reared up, the forward push must be stopped immediately, otherwise the animal may fall onto its back. To get the horse to stand on the front legs, the rider must loosen the rein, grab the horse by the neck and lean forward with the whole body. If the horse falls, you need to release your legs from the stirrups and jump to the side without letting go of the rein. When the horse rises, the rider must sit in the saddle and push forward vigorously.

What if a horse throws the rider off of itself?

It is necessary to begin work on correcting this dangerous habit gradually. First - work on the line, then - in the hands, and only after that under the saddle, at first with a dead weight, on the line, and only then - under the rider.

A horse can throw off a person in several ways. She can hit her backwards, jump to the sides, throw herself at a brisk gait, "drag" with her head down and arch her back, or "goat". The last option is the most dangerous for humans. It is rare for a rider to stay in the saddle when the horse jumps in place on straight legs, so every effort must be made to prevent unwanted behavior. Before starting such jumps, the horse stops and lowers its head. At this point, you need to send the horse forward, at the same time raising its head as high as possible and in no case weaken the attention until the end of the lesson. Numerous unsuccessful attempts to throw off will rid the horse of this bad habit.

What if the horse does not stand still at the request of the rider?

There can be several reasons for this bad habit in a horse. Refusal to stand still on demand may be due to improper or inept handling by the rider, even in a well-trained horse. Also, the horse may refuse to stand due to excessive temperament, underworking or overwork.

If the horse refuses to stand due to anxiety, he should be given a proper rest, and then gradually begin to work. The task of the rider is to develop a conditioned reflex of calm standing on demand. Run the horse on the lane, then stop, loosen the reins, calm down with your voice and, every time he stands still, give a treat. The systematic repetition of these techniques will teach the horse to calmly stand still at the request of the rider.

What if the horse throws itself up?

The term "tuck" refers to a sharp turn on the front or hind legs, a sharp deviation to the side of the desired direction or obstacle that the rider requires to overcome. To prevent a refusal, you need to strongly draw on yourself and press against the horse's neck the rein in the direction of which the horse is going to turn, and take the other reason away from the neck and strengthen the action of the leg from the side of the refusal. Once the horse has calmed down and stopped trying to turn, it should be encouraged and sent forward vigorously. Usually, the horse does a throw in one direction. This must be borne in mind and prevented from trying to manifest a bad habit.

The same is true when throwing in front of an obstacle. If after several attempts it is not possible to force the horse to overcome it, you should take it on the line and make it jump over this obstacle 2-3 times. After that, you need to praise the horse and stop exercising. The next day, fix the jumps on the line, then do the same under the rider.

What if the horse is dragging?

If your horse has been working for a long time on a rigid rein with the previous owner, the toothless edge of its lower jaw has lost sensitivity. This is the reason why the horse does not obey the reins and "drags" or "carries" the rider. When this happens, you need to force the horse to go in a circle and gradually stop. This bad habit of the horse is corrected by working in the hands and under the saddle, energetically sending forward, and then gently taking on the reins of the mouthpiece or bit. The main task is to achieve sensitivity of the toothless edge of the lower jaw. And even during fast gaits, it is not recommended to keep the horse on a rigid rein all the time - when it slows down, the tension on the rein should be loosened, and given more freedom, as if in gratitude for obedience.

What if the horse does not separate from the group or formation?

If it is difficult to separate a horse from the herd, and in loneliness it shows anxiety, it means that it has a highly developed herd feeling. It will take time and systematic work in conditions that exclude contact with other horses to save a horse from the need for the company of his kind. At the beginning of the walk, it is recommended to walk in front of the horse, leading it first on a leash, and then without it. Thus, the rider replaces the presence of other horses, the horse understands that he is not alone, but you are the leader. After that, you can get on horseback and stick to the established partnership.

What if the horse bites?

This is exactly the case when a flaw is easier to prevent than to fix. To prevent the horse from biting or kicking, you need to adhere to a number of simple rules. Never hit or punish a horse for no reason, do not leave the animal without work for a long time. When a horse is in a stall, stall or under a saddle, approach it carefully, after calling it out - your unexpected appearance may scare it. If the horse nevertheless has developed this bad habit, it can be corrected with the help of severe punishment at the moment of "preparing" for a bite or blow, or immediately after the incident.

In life, there are people who show a sharp protest against something by their behavior. Such disagreement, expressed by all its appearance, is often found in animals, especially in horses. They stand on their hind legs and take an upright position, demonstrating this protest. In such cases, they say: "Rise on its hind legs!" Where did this expression come from, and how to deal with such a rebel?

Value

Usually behavior expressing resistance is somehow associated with self-defense. The phrase is often correlated with him: "Rises on its hind legs!".

However, the very word "rack" is a term that denoted an instrument of punishment and torture. It was used in Russia and in Europe from the 14th to the 18th century. This is a terrible weapon. It was designed to stretch the body of the punished person. At the same time, as a rule, his ligaments were torn. In Europe, it happened that the rack was additionally equipped with spikes. In Russia, the word meant a deck. They said: "Put the accused on a rack."

In our time, they use the expression "rears up." This means - to sharply resist, protest, rock the boat, disagree. To stand up means to object, to resist, to take up arms, to express sharp irritation, to behave defiantly, while straightening up, standing on his feet. And then, when in the XIV-XVIII centuries they said "to rack up", which means - to punish with the help of an appropriate instrument of torture.

Punishment

There was another type of punishment - on the post. The accused was hung on a pole with his arms twisted behind his back, and a load was tied to his legs. With this method of punishment, the unfortunate man's hands came out of the joints. The suspended person was beaten with a whip, they could set fire to fire, break the ribs. There was no difference between male and female, apart from the ribs. They were not broken for women. Basically in the Russian Empire, the rack is a weapon for punishing thieves.

But this type of punishment was not always and everywhere applied. For example, in the agreement between Riga and Smolensk, dating back to the XIII century, it was said that Rusyns should be bailed or put in iron, and not in a rack. But the Pskov letter of judgment said that the rack is a punishment for those who break into the court or hit the doorkeeper.

Horse protest

Among people involved in horse breeding, dressage, equestrian sports, you can often find the expression "the horse stood on an oak tree." This is the same as rearing up or on a candle. The reasons for this behavior of the horse can be different circumstances. If the horse rears up, and the rider sits on it, then most likely this is a response to rough treatment. Perhaps the rider is inexperienced and inept with the reins. Then the horse, wanting to get rid of the sensations of pain, does not obey and refuses to move forward. At the same time, she abruptly stands on her hind legs and turns around in a direction convenient for her.

It happens that the horse just plays out of an excess of energy. This behavior is typical of young, unbroken individuals. The behavior of a horse standing on a candle shows a discrepancy between the strong excitement of the horse's nervous system and the rider's restraining actions.

It happens that a horse rears up, staying in a pasture, in a levada, on a lane. Then it speaks of aggression, a desire to attack, to strike with a hoof. But not only. Often horses play like that, express a good mood, pour out an excess of energy. To distinguish between these conditions, look at the legs and hooves. If the legs are straight and the hooves are open and edge-first, this is readiness to kick. If the hooves are pointing inward and the legs are bent, this is play. But even at such a moment, you should not approach the horse. Almost everyone knows what a horse looks like on its hind legs (the photo can be seen below).

How to handle a horse that stands on a candle?

If the rider is on a horse, and she rears, then she must be forced to fall on all legs. And it doesn't matter for what reason it happened. If the horse is already rearing under you, you need to do the following:

• To do this, loosen the rein to sagging, but in no case do not throw it!
• The severity of your body must be transferred forward, so the horse will be forced to lower. In no case should you lean back! So you can throw the horse on his back, and fall himself, injuring his spine. If the fall cannot be avoided, you need to try to push off the horse so that you fall away from it. Otherwise, it can damage the rider if it falls.
• Perhaps there are sharp irritants nearby, then it is necessary to immediately move aside.
• When on all legs, it must be energetically sent forward. Working with a halter should be relaxed.

If there is disobedience to the horse, and she wants to turn in a different direction, then it is necessary to almost abruptly lie down on her neck and not let her turn her head. To do this, you need to dial a little external reason, exactly so as not to allow her to turn her head. You must act carefully, not pulling the reins. It is important to know that if she turns, she can run abruptly at a gallop.

Correcting badly driven horses

How to train a horse to obey promises

This question can be answered in different ways, depending on whether we are talking about a horse, not driven, or a bad horse. The paths and goals in each of these cases are basically the same. But for a better understanding, each of them should be discussed separately.

What is achieved by a single message in a driven horse requires a week of planned work in a non-driven horse, like any horse that resists the will of the rider. Therefore, we qualify training to promises as one of the basics of horse riding training. If the horse can pass the test for obedience to the premise, then it means that it has passed this stage.

Teaching the horse to obey the promises

If a rider trains a driven horse to obey the messages, then it is enough for him to influence the lumbosacral region. On the spot, while trotting or galloping, the horse will begin to obey the messages immediately, provided that the reins act as a warning, that is, they behave completely passively, and the legs, trying not to lose contact with the horse's sides, will support the action of the lumbosacral muscles with light pressure ...

So, they mainly act with the lumbosacral region and legs, and not with the reins. And it would be wrong to shorten the reins by turning the hands.

A horse that does not obey the prompts when the lumbosacral muscles are tense and the pressure of the legs is not satisfactory. In this case, we are talking about an insufficiently driven or badly trained horse.

Teaching an unreached horse to obey promises

An unattended horse is taught to obey promises when it is already accustomed to walking under the saddle at a shortened trot and with long, smooth, space-grasping steps calmly walks alongside the accompanying horse. And the real work with her begins a little later, when the horse gets so used to the rider that he has to urge it on with a whip. When using a whip, especially when working with a young horse, the rider must be very careful not to intimidate him. More and more the rider with his legs finds contact with the horse, and the horses are driven by calm legs. The realization that it is being sent by the pressure of the legs comes to the horse gradually, along with the accompanying light blow of the whip.

All further work consists in practicing different gaits on the horse. As soon as the horse begins to slow down and his stride becomes shorter, the rider must set the pace himself, without giving the right of his choice to the horse, and seek obedience. This is the beginning of the message training. At this time, the horse's appearance is not paid much attention. Stiffness and other detectable defects are corrected in the shortened trot. At the same time, the horse lowers its neck and head, if the rider does not oppose the reins, and gradually takes the reins itself.

You should not change the pace ahead of time and switch to extended trot. Turning on the move and changing the pace should only be done as an experiment. You need to move forward gradually, without haste.

After a while, the horse will completely obey the action of the legs, take the reins and begin to chew on the bit. With a completely passive hand, the rider forces the horse to take the reins. The most important thing is to independently search for a reason. But the rider should not speed up this process with a set of reins, otherwise the horse may hit the vertical with his nose, raise his head and start playing with a bit. But she should not follow the reins and push the bit with her tongue; the rider can discourage this by pushing the horse vigorously at the correct pace. If this does not help, then you should lightly hit with the whip. The rider sometimes hears the horse begin to push the bit with his tongue; again, a light whip and a fresh message are needed. The calm and steady course of the horse must be reinforced every day. Strengthening the gait is a touchstone: is the rider working properly? With a correct landing, the rider, at the moment of stopping the movement, more and more affects the horse with the lumbosacral muscles, which is the first and prerequisite for a correct landing, and since any turn is always accompanied by an inclination of the body, a young horse after a while will clearly respond to prompts ...

Correct seating and gradually more and more tangible action of the lumbosacral muscles and legs will accustom the horse to the passive action of the reins. Any artificial or forced positioning of the horse's neck and head with the help of recruited reins will not lead to the desired result. It is possible that the horse, thanks to the round neck, will give the impression of being driven, but this will not make it obedient and, of course, will not always obey the promises.

Teaching the bad horse to obey the promises

Correcting bad horses is one of the most important sections of horse riding. Only riders who work with horses actively, energetically, but unhurriedly experience dressage. The results of the work will tell if the horse is ridden right or wrong.

Any, even a very well-trained horse can be quickly spoiled by improper influences. He who has never or very rarely had the opportunity to correct the horse following the reins, and again to teach him to obey the promises, will hardly be able to force his horse to obey them for a long time. It is unlikely that the feeling will tell him when the horse is going to stand on the reins and how he should prevent this or how to fix it. To such a rider it will appear that all horses have the same defects.

Sometimes they talk about the disobedience of a horse, although what they are talking about has nothing to do with the concept of disobedience. The horse never out of cunning or maliciously avoids the rider's influence; she does this when she is frightened, in pain, or when the rider is giving the wrong message.

The horse may not react to the impact, but this is always not her fault, but the rider's. So, in most cases, unpleasant pressure on the reins is the result of too tight a hand. At the beginning of the training, this can be corrected by the action of the lumbosacral muscles, the transfer of the center of gravity of the body, the send or the action of spurs.

If the horse is already accustomed to "lying" on the lead, then only short blows of the whip close to the girth will help, which should be repeated immediately if he tries to "lie" on the rein again. But it is necessary to punish immediately at the moment of disobedience and always with only one blow. The horse will take a few quick steps forward in fear and may "lie down" on the rein again. Then she should be punished again and so on until she stops. But the most effective is not the whip and not the spurs, but the message from the lumbosacral muscles and legs.

The rider often complains that his horse:

has a hard, "dead" mouth;

stubborn;

goes before the reins;

leans on the occasion;

has an irregular neck bend (behind the third cervical vertebra);

walks in short, hurried steps, with a hot temperament;

puts the legs incorrectly;

tongue tries to push out the bit;

shakes his head;

has a "deer" neck;

goes for a reason;

lifts his head sharply;

has an irregular neck set (in hot horses with a weak back);

stiffness in one or both hind legs

does not obey the legs;

lost her agility.

All of the above disadvantages will disappear immediately as soon as the horse begins to obey the promises. Consequently, shortcomings are primarily symptoms of one basic evil called refusal to obey the promises, but they manifest themselves in each case in different ways.

Fearfulness of a horse

If a horse is afraid of some object, then it always turns its head in its direction, looks at it with fear. Then the rider makes the horse look away from the object that excites the horse (fig. 19). Joining other riders makes it easier to drive past objects that arouse fear; in this case, the horse is forced to take the other direction from the very beginning.

If possible, the horse should be allowed to look closely at the object that scares him. The rider's patience and soothing voice will help with this.

The horse is "goat"

The horse can "goat" in different ways: on the spot, jumping forward and jumping to the sides. In all three cases, she lowers her head, and because of this, the rider can easily fly out of the saddle. By energetic action of the reins, the rider should try to lift the horse's head and force it forward. If the horse itself does not stop "goating", and the rider is not able to force her to obey the promises, then he is unlikely to sit in the saddle.

Often a horse with a sensitive back, when the rider is treated too roughly during the saddle, begins to "goat" immediately after landing. In most cases, this can be foreseen by feeling the tension in the back and the uncertainty of steps during the drive. It is better to first ride such a horse in a circle on the line until the tension subsides. But the most important thing is that a horse with a sensitive back, prone to "goat", must be saddled very calmly, the girth must be pulled slowly and carefully. It is recommended to let go of the girth one or two holes before getting into the saddle. If at the moment of "goats" the rider will treat the horse roughly, punish it, then it is unlikely that he will achieve obedience.

The horse rears up.

When the horse rears up, the rider, as in the "goat", should try to send it forward, because the horse can only rears up while standing still.

If the horse rears up, then the rider, in order not to fly out of the saddle or so as not to overturn the horse by pulling the reins, it is better to grab its neck or mane. In this case, the stirrups must be thrown. When the horse is down, the rider should immediately sit up straight and try to send the horse forward. The rider makes a gross mistake by holding on to the neck or mane for too long, because it deprives himself of the opportunity to influence the horse. Immediately after the horse's forelegs touch the ground, the rider should try to raise his head with the reins, as the horse cannot rears up with his head up. In the same way, the rider should act when he senses in advance - and this is very rare - that his horse is about to rears. The low position of the hands and pressure from the reins will not prevent the horse from rearing up.

The most unpleasant thing in this case is the overturning of the horse, if one or both of the horse's hind legs lose support, it will fall on its back or side. In this case, the rider must push off the horse to avoid being hit by it. If, from the fright, the rider kicks off too early, he will fall close to the horse, and she can fall right on him.

The horse carried

This is the case with a horse when it does not obey the reins and cannot be restrained. This most often occurs when the rider pulls on the reins for too long and too hard. This happens to an inexperienced rider, although everyone knows that a horse is stronger than a rider. The horse can carry with the neck raised and arched. If the rider realizes that he has lost control of the horse, then he should not hope that it will stop by itself; jerking or pulling on the reins will not help in this case. The main thing at this moment is for the rider to look straight: he must see where the horse can be directed in order to make it go first along a large radius, and then, narrowing the circles, finally stop. At the same time, they act only with an internal motive, although they are surprised that the horse obeys him.

Enraged, with bloodshot eyes, horses are very rarely carried.

Horse refusal to move forward

Sometimes the horse refuses to move, but tries to stay with other horses at the stable or door. She rears up, “goats” or behaves as if she wants to push the rider against the wall. This intention of the horse should be prevented and corrected by the same techniques that are used when he "goats", stands on its hind legs or is pressed against the wall of the arena. The most important thing is to subject the horse to the influence of the rider and make it move forward. If a horse tries to join other horses or to get into the stable even after having been ridden for some time, then the rider has reason to think that the horse is not obeying the promises. The stubbornness of the horse once again reminds of this.

The horse is pressed against the wall of the arena

If the horse is pressed against the wall of the arena, the rider must force him to take in the opposite direction. With the pressure of the outer leg, he can easily take it away from the wall of the arena.

Figure: 20 Controlling the horse while trying to snuggle against the wall of the arena

How to wean a horse from bad habits

Each rider first tries to find instructions for weaning a horse from bad habits, and then listens to various advice of this kind: for this you need longs, cord, cavaletti or some other means.

But in most cases, this is the wrong advice. Among them there are such: to force the horse to chew the bit iron, to lower the neck. By following these tips, the rider does not help the horse to acquire ease of movement, does not subordinate it to his will, and in the end it is not this that makes the horse perceive the impact and obey them.

It is quite clear that there cannot be a universal remedy, just as there is no panacea. Everything is decided by the rider's subtle understanding of the character of the horse and the ability to notice and wean the horse from bad habits in time. Therefore, a novice rider should not undertake the rectification of a bad horse; he will be able to do this later, when he really learns to enter the rhythm of the horse's movement, acquires a firm and correct fit.

There is only one way to get rid of a horse from bad habits - to completely subordinate it to the will of the rider, that is, to teach it to obey the promises.

The difficulties encountered on this path are different and depend on whether the horse follows the reins, on the bit or in front of the reins, whether it develops stiffness in the cervical vertebrae, back or hind legs; when these defects are corrected, dressage must be practiced rather than the parts.

Therefore, the way to wean a horse from bad habits can only be as follows:

1. First, any horse, obeying the message, must learn to move forward.

2. When this is achieved, the horse is taught to take it inside the arena.

3. the next step is teaching the horse the correct head and neck position.

4. When this is achieved, she is taught to take the occasion.

5. If the horse finds a rein on its own, then it can be upset.

In order to subsequently accustom the horse to the mouthpiece, when weaning it from bad habits, they always use a bit. His horse accepts more readily, because he acts softer.

How to teach a bad horse to obey promises

The hardest thing is to work with a horse that is striving uncontrollably forward, because it cannot stand the impact of the legs. Some believe that such a horse cannot be subordinated to the will of the rider at all. It all depends on whether it is possible to bring the horse back to normal at all. In this case, it should be transferred to a circular motion. However, the rider should not be tempted to stop the horse by pulling on the reins: the primary task of the reins is to steer. Stay on the volta until the horse allows itself to be sent, without trying to drag again. The more firmly the rider sits in the saddle, knows how to influence the lumbosacral region, the more carefully and calmly he acts with his legs on the horse's sides, the faster he will succeed.

Each push with restless legs will frighten the horse again and encourage him to drag. Thanks to the long work on the volt, the horse gradually returns to normal. There is no other remedy. The rider will soon be able to send the horse, but only if he has a correct seat in the saddle. This ability to sit firmly and confidently in the saddle is crucial, especially when riding horses with a sensitive back. He who sits in the saddle with a deeply arched spine will never become a master of riding. The inner rein keeps the horse on the volt, and the outer rider does not attach importance yet, as well as the position of the horse's head. First, you need to achieve only one thing - so that not the horse determines the pace of movement, but the rider. And only when it succeeds, the work itself begins. Dressage begins only after the horse can be sent, that is, from the moment when the rider can act on it with the lumbosacral muscles and legs.

The situation is somewhat different with horses that are phlegmatic and impervious to legs. It is wrong to force such people to move only by the influence of their legs. There is no point in disturbing a horse with spurs, only a whip will help here. Lean horses are also trained to move forward under the influence of the legs, lumbosacral muscles, and sometimes the whip. The rider must be able to use the whip. If the horse again learns to go forward under the influence of the lumbosacral region and legs, the rider will be able to set the pace of movement himself: calm and even, but slightly higher than the horse wants. Forgetting this when teaching the horse to obey the messages, the rider makes the worst mistake.

Fixing Bad Horses

After the bad-riding horse has been trained to move forward by the action of the lumbosacral region and legs, it begins to be taught to move with a reception.

An indispensable condition for the horse's obedience to the promises is the complete ease of its movements; the sooner this is achieved, the sooner she begins to obey the will of the rider.

Horses tend to relax their muscles more quickly (especially those with a sensitive back) if the rider sits upright in the saddle and sends the horse forward rather than forward. After all, from birth, as already mentioned, any horse moves to the right or to the left.

To force the horse to take in the volt, the rider, while gently pushing on the inside, simultaneously gives up the outside rein. Almost every horse will soon take in volts when riding, if not in one direction, then in the other direction and, accordingly, vice versa. By changing the direction of travel to volt, the rider must determine which direction the horse takes more willingly. This is not difficult to understand and does not require special skill. They begin to work in the direction where the horse is more willing. In this case, it does not play a special role in what the horse begins to accept: with the neck, croup, or at the same time. The main thing is not to forget that moving forward is decisive and that neglecting the position, as well as incorrect position of the rider's body, can lead to failure or minimal success.

If the horse, despite the energetic message and reproach of expectation, does not accept or respond to the influence of the internal rein in either direction, then the rider should resort to the help of decoupling.

The use of this aid seems to complicate the work, but in such cases it is inevitable. True, this requires the rider to become well acquainted with the use of the tool before starting work. If the intended goal is achieved, then the auxiliary means should be immediately abandoned, excluding it. Otherwise, there will only be harm.

The faster the horse begins to take in volts, the softer the effect of the inner rein, if the rider simultaneously gives the outer and energetically sends the horse forward. If he strongly picks up an internal reason, then one should not be surprised that a horse, and she is stronger than a person, will not easily yield. Success decides on careful handling of the reins, while the horse is propelled forward vigorously by shifting the center of gravity. If this fails when moving a volt in one direction, you should try the other. Shifting from left to right and from right to left can also help, but the horse's reception cannot be complicated at this stage by counter-pulling the outside rein.

If the desired is achieved, then the inner rein should remain in the dialed position. The softer the inner rein is, the more readily the horse takes the rein and obeys the rider.

How to get the right head and neck in a bad horse

Figure: 21 Training a Horse Using Sliding Auxiliary Reins

It is not clear to many riders why the horse's neck and head should be properly set first. As a result of dressage, the front legs of the horse, when moving, are brought forward almost straight, capture more space, and the hind legs are bent. Straightening the forelimbs is pointless in itself and does not make sense unless the hindlimbs are bent at an angle to take the brunt of the weight. When pushing off the ground with its hind legs, the horse lowers its head itself. Therefore, she must not only lower her neck, but also stretch it. This stretching of the neck is perhaps even more important than dropping it. If the rider could not at any moment force the horse to stretch his neck, then in order to avoid influences, he would constantly follow the reins. Then the rider could not really make the horse obey the message.

Lowering the head and stretching the horse's neck are the main elements of the horse's regulation. This relaxes the horse in the back and can work more vigorously with the hind legs.

It is best to start this work when moving to the volt at a shortened trot. With the external rein, the rider first puts very light pressure on the external jaw of the horse in order to immediately return the rein with the hand or the entire forearm. The pressure, lasting only one moment, should direct the horse's attention to the outside rein, for moving the arm forward - giving the rein - is more important. This movement should force the horse to yield and extend the neck.

By acting on the lumbosacral region and legs, the rider should force the horse to move a little faster than it is comfortable with. If the rider forgets about the lead and the horse walks at a pace that suits him, then he will not accept the weakened reins, and all the work will go to waste. The message must necessarily affect when the hand of the outside hand gives up the rein. The hand of the inner hand should maintain the same position regardless of the movements of the other hand. Otherwise, the rider will come to the fact that in turn he will act with both hands - then forward, then backward. This way you cannot force the horse to obey the promises, but only put it on the rein.

If the rider for a long time proposes to lengthen the neck and accept the reins by advancing the outer hand, then over time the horse will agree with his desire. This constant influence may seem annoying and insignificant to the horse, but it will not be painful or unpleasant at all, and therefore she will not resist him, and with each new circle she will be more obedient. If the rider is patient the horse will gradually accept the reins. If this process seems too long for the rider, he may try to lead the horse to the external rein, recruited a little harder and raised for a moment with the brush, sending it stronger and forcing it to take more. The more uncomfortable for a horse with a raised neck, short pressure on tense ganaches, the faster the horse develops a correct head and neck position. The rider can try to see if he can do it faster in the other direction. But he cannot and should not do otherwise or achieve more. You can only help the horse to develop the correct posture, but she must find it herself.

Most horses react to this in a few minutes, some only after half an hour, but at one time each horse reacts to such an impact. If the horse hesitantly made the first attempt to correctly position the neck, then the rider should move his legs and the influence of the lumbosacral muscles forward and force him to take first in one direction, and then in the other; and more intense to the side more comfortable for the horse itself, so that it understands that it has done exactly what the rider wanted from it. Then everything must be repeated with taking in the other direction. For this purpose, the rider should "change hands" until the horse's head and neck are in the correct position. This will lay the foundation for obedience to the messages.

How to get a bad horse to take the reins

If the horse has a correct head and neck position, the rider needs to take advantage of this and act passively with the reins. Then the horse itself takes the reins and begins to chew on the bit iron. If no pressure is exerted on the horse, but only to send and demand to really move forward, then he will have no reason for stiffness, tension or fright.

Accordingly, the position of the head and neck is a prerequisite, a sine qua non for the horse to accept the rein. But the correct set does not mean that the horse is holding on to the reins, nor is his regulation identical to the correct set of the neck. These three actions - ruling, setting the neck, and moving on the bit - are largely intertwined, and much more than you might think. Their separate consideration is necessary to explain each of these processes.

In this case, the most important thing, when sending, is not to forget to keep the horse on the bit all the time and, giving the rein with the outside hand, to make sure that the connection through the rein between the hand and the horse's mouth is really a consequence of the send, and not a set of reins.

All the tension in the jaws, ganaches, neck, back and limbs that was present until that moment should be relaxed in a uniform, maybe monotonous, but energetic trot. The horse, on the other hand, will move more and more naturally forward and eventually will begin to obey the legs, reins, influences of the lumbosacral region and will go in balance.

If the horse itself has taken the rein,
then it can be upset

As a result of the previous work, the horse is already obeying the promises. There is only no guarantee that what has been achieved will be preserved. Again and again, you need to force her to stretch her neck to strengthen the relaxed manner of movement, which the horse cannot help but like. This gives her confidence, thanks to the energetic message, she will have a step, more and more exciting space. The slightest set of reins collects the horse, makes it not only chew on the bit iron, but also yield to the requirement of the rein, that is, move the center of gravity closer to the hind limbs. This work is already a transition to collection.

Not all horses lend themselves quickly to training, but it will soon become clear if a given horse can be ridden. If after 8-14 days of intensive work the rider shows the first results, then he can hope to train his horse to obey the promises. If no shifts are noticeable, then, most likely, the rider is doomed to failure, because it will not come by itself. In such a case, the rider must ask himself if he is to blame for the failure. For the most part, this is because the rider has not learned to enter the rhythm of the horse's movement.

Mistakes in fixing bad horses

The described methods of fixing bad horses may seem pretty simple, but in practice they are ... even simpler than many people think. Each rider should not only know, but also be able to correct bad horses, this is the guarantee of his future success.

But anyone who wants to try to teach obedience to a bad horse should know that a prerequisite for success is the rider's confident entry into the rhythm of the horse's movement, that is, the ability to sit correctly in the saddle. If someone does not understand this, then, of course, he will not be able to force the horse to obey the promises, since without mastering the basics of sitting in the saddle, one cannot learn how to exert the correct effects on the horse.

It is often asked whether one should be tough, uncompromising when dealing with a bad horse. The question is fundamentally wrong. Teaching the messages cannot be carried out by brute force - any correction requires the greatest concentration, intuition, intelligence and patience, if the rider wants the horse to understand and do his will.

Some riders believe that most errors in horses are due to the character or constitution of the horse and cannot be corrected. This is a very common misconception.

Many riders also find it most difficult to correct the horse following the reins. For a rider who has experience with bad horses, all tasks are the same, the only difference is that one horse is easier to correct, the other is much more difficult.

Sometimes the trainer advises to teach the horse to obey the prompts first on the spot or on the move with a walk, and only go to trot after the first stage has been successfully passed. This recommendation is erroneous because this path is much more difficult and almost always teaches the horse to follow the reins. When trotting, the rider has a better sense of the horse's reaction to the message.

The well-known advice "the rider should give up as soon as the horse yields" is misunderstood by many, which is the reason for countless mistakes. And this advice should be understood as follows: the rider should not be in a state of numbness and he should only pick up the reins until the horse yields. If the rider continues to gain the reins even if the goal has already been achieved, then there will be an inconsistency between him and the horse, in which the horse is innocent. The experienced rider will give up the rein the very moment the horse gives up.

Often times this recommendation is taken to mean, "The rider must yield only when the horse has given way." That is, he must pick up the reins until the horse gives up. This is a misinterpretation of advice. If the horse does not yield when the reins are pulled, then the rider did not act simultaneously with the lumbosacral region and the legs. In this case, a stronger force is enough to induce a response from the horse. Not so few riders try to simply "pull" the horse with the reins, although it is stronger than any person. And if someone succeeds in this, then in 99 cases out of 100 the rider will miss the long-awaited moment and give up the reason too late. And if he catches the right moment, the horse will most likely follow the reins.

Some riders do not know about the effects of the lumbosacral region, others have heard about them, but they do not know how and what to do, some generally deny the possibility of such effects, many do not believe that it is possible to change the position of the horse's head and neck by the influence of the reins , or believe that it is so difficult that only top-class riders can handle it. Therefore, it is not uncommon for a rider to try to steer a horse using only the reins. And the expression "to maintain the correct position of the horse's head when exposed to the reins", which is common among the masters of riding, is understood literally by many. If the horse resists, then the rider pulls the rein harder, and if the horse gives in and the rein hangs for a moment, then the rider rejoices, believing that he has achieved obedience because he no longer feels the pressure on the rein. In this situation, everything suggests that the horse will learn to follow the reins, and the rider taught her this, albeit against his will. This happens much more often than is believed, and ultimately leads to the fact that the horse gradually develops an irregular head position and a fracture in the cervical vertebrae, which naturally catches the eye of every qualified rider.

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