Repair Design Furniture

Self-repair of the hammer drill. How to properly repair a hammer drill on your own How to disassemble a hammer drill motor vertical

A hammer drill is a tool, without which it is impossible to imagine the majority of construction and repair work today. Therefore, today every person associated with such works aspires to have this tool. A video about the repair of a hammer drill will be interesting to everyone who wants to be able to independently repair the breakdown of this tool.

Finding out the cause of the breakdown

To know what exactly needs to be repaired, it is worth understanding the reasons for the breakdown of the hammer drill. This video will help you to do this.

Replacing the bearing in the hammer drill

If, when working with a hammer drill, you hear an unusual "rustle" or feel that the drill "slips", it is time to replace the bearing. This video will tell you how to do this.

Disassembly of the rotary hammer reducer

The rotary hammer reducer is designed to transmit rotary motion to the chuck from the engine. This is what drives the impact mechanism. The gearbox must be disassembled to replace or lubricate parts. You will learn how to do this in the video.

Another story about the disassembly of the gearbox.

Rotary hammer lubrication

For that. To prevent the perforator from breaking and failing, you need to properly care for it. Regular lubrication of the rock drill is one of the prerequisites for proper tool care. To lubricate the hammer drill, it must first be disassembled. You will learn how to do this by watching this video.

How to extend the life of a hammer drill

Protecting the hammer drill from dust means shedding its service life. If you want to know how you can make a dust protection for your instrument with your own hands, watch this video.

An excellent and irreplaceable assistant both in the household and in production is the rotary hammer. This tool is able to comfortably solve the most complex problems, as it has many universal properties. It is intended for drilling holes in various materials, removing walls and partitions, drilling rocks and road surfaces. A hammer drill is used under heavy loads, therefore, over time, various malfunctions may occur.

By the type of drive, perforators can be conditionally divided:

Depending on the application, this tool may have three main modes of operation:

  1. Drilling. In this mode, the device works like a drill.
  2. Drilling with a forward impact motion. This mode is used when it is necessary to make holes in concrete or brick.
  3. The jackhammer mode assumes the impact movement of the tool without rotating it.
  • lightweight (2-4 kg) used in domestic conditions and having a power of 400-700 W;
  • medium (5 kg) perforators with a power of 700-200 W belong to a professional tool;
  • heavy ones, with a weight of more than 5 kg and a power of over 1200 W, are used in construction.

Structurally, electric rock drills can be performed with a horizontal (simple) and vertical (barrel) engine arrangement.

The device of the whole mechanism

Regardless of the design of the device and the functions of its application, all models (Bosch, Makita, Stern, Energomash, Interskol) have similar components.

The hammer drill consists of the following parts:

Unlike an ordinary drill, the hammer drill has increased percussion function, which is a very important advantage in case of mechanical action on the processed material. This type of work is achieved by its own mechanism for creating a push of the working attachment, which frees the operator from the use of physical efforts when chiselling or drilling stone, brick or concrete.

The rotational motion of the electric motor is converted into translational vibration of the percussion tool by creating compression between the working pistons. This movement is active transmitted to impact devices(chisel, drill or shovel). Having studied the perforator device, it is much easier and more efficient to repair the malfunctions that have arisen.

Conventionally, all damage to the tool can be divided into two main groups - electrical and mechanical.

Mechanical damage... Often, a mechanical type of malfunction can be detected even by ear. The appearance of a grinding noise and increased noise during the operation of the device signal the operator about the need to check and repair the hammer drill. It is also possible to increase the vibration of the device and the appearance of an unpleasant odor from the body of the device.

Mechanical faults include:

  • breakdown of the device that switches the operating modes of the device;
  • premature wear of the striker and striker rubber seals;
  • damage to the striking mechanism;
  • barrel wear;
  • breakage of the working teeth of the gears;
  • malfunction of the cartridge for holding the percussion devices.

The occurrence of such problems is most often due to a violation of the rules for the operation and maintenance of this device.

Electrical faults

This type of breakdown can also be accompanied by the appearance of an unpleasant odor from the body of the device, as well as the presence of sparks when the motor rotates. Particular attention should be paid to the appearance of smoke and rapid heating of the electric motor parts.

Electrical faults include:

Without knowledge of the basics of electrical engineering, it is better not to repair a punch with your own hands, it is advisable to contact a specialist.

Repair of any device begins with a neat and careful disassembly of the unit. If the design of the device is poorly understood, it is better to photograph each stage of disassembly, so that in the future it will be easier to carry out the process of reassembling the element.

The elimination of almost any malfunction of the hammer drill means it partial or complete disassembly... The only exception is damage to the electrical plug of the unit. Due to the fact that almost all models of perforators are structurally arranged in the same way, the process of disassembling them is carried out according to a similar scheme.

Do-it-yourself repair of the hammer drill cartridge begins after removing it from the unit itself. The cartridge is disassembled using a flat screwdriver after removing the working attachment. When a drill, chisel or drill gets stuck in the chuck, it can be difficult to get it out. If the fixture is jammed, then you need add a few drops of grease inside and gently tap the cartridge with a rubber mallet. After a few minutes of pause, a second attempt to remove the instrument will be successful. Next, you should disassemble the cartridge:

  1. Pull the plastic skirt down.
  2. Using a screwdriver, pick up and remove the protective rubber boot.
  3. Carefully open and remove the retaining ring located behind the boot.
  4. Then remove the plastic boot, lock plates, spring and balls.
  5. All removed parts must be cleaned of debris and old grease.

During the dismantling process, you need to carefully inspect all components of the cartridge to identify defective parts. The question of how to change the chuck on the hammer drill is easily solved if you have a spare, fully serviceable part of the device in stock. Its replacement is carried out when the device is fully assembled after the damage has been eliminated.

  1. We set the jackhammer mode on the switch.
  2. Then we turn the lever a little lower, while simultaneously pressing the button until it clicks.
  3. We pull the switch towards ourselves, pry it with a screwdriver, remove it from the case. On some models, this device can be secured with screws.

Dismantling and repair of the electrical part of the rotary hammer

If you suspect that the unit has a malfunction in the operation of the electric motor, then you need to dismantle the electrical part of the device. During disassembly, it is necessary to check the serviceability of parts of the mechanism that could break during operation.

Disassembly diagram:

If it is necessary to disassemble the barrel puncher, first remove the handle of the device, and then unscrew the bolts holding the engine.

Replacing brushes

The main symptom of a malfunctioning brush is the presence of sparking in the collector area, overheating of the engine and the presence of a burning smell.

The brushes are located in special holders and are pressed against the armature by springs. This element will have to be replaced after the plates are worn by one third of the nominal value. To ensure good contact during work, new brushes need to grind to the rotating part of the engine. To do this, place a piece of fine-grained emery paper on the motor manifold and rotate to round the working surface of the brushes.

In rotary hammers, brushes of three types can be used:

  1. Coal - easy to rub in, but wear out very quickly.
  2. Graphite brushes have a harder surface and are therefore more durable.
  3. Carbon-graphite contacts are considered ideal brushes.

Necessarily it is necessary to clean the rotor and stator devices from coal or graphite dust using technical alcohol solution.

Repairing damage to the stator and rotor of an electric motor for an inexperienced craftsman is a big problem. Preventive measures for cleaning and lubricating the rotating parts of the unit will be appropriate here. Breakdown and short circuit of the winding determined with a multimeter, while repairing such breakdowns is difficult due to the compact and dense arrangement of parts.

Impact mechanism repair

The design of the percussion mechanisms differs from the type of hammer drill. Therefore, the elimination of the cause of the malfunction has its own small differences.

In the case of the barrel unit, the impact block functions on the basis of a crank mechanism. The main malfunction of such a device is considered to be wear of bearings and rotating parts. Their repair consists in installing new parts, while you need take into account the strict compliance of the element brand for this model.

For a unit with a horizontal engine, the piston of the percussion mechanism is driven by a swinging (drunk) bearing. Most often, damage to this assembly occurs due to wear of such a bearing. When replacing it, special attention should be paid to cleaning the gearbox from possible small fragments of a damaged element and subsequent lubrication of the parts to be installed.

And also the reason that the unit does not hit may be a broken striker, which must also be replaced with a new element.

After carrying out all the repair work, it is important to correctly and accurately assemble the perforator, since the density of installation of many of its elements requires precise articulation during assembly.

For a long and safe operation of the punch, some recommendations should be strictly observed:

Performing these simple operations helps to avoid premature wear your assistant. Remember that preventing damage is easier than fixing it later.

An electric rock drill is perhaps the most popular device that I use at construction sites, repairs, etc.

This tool is operated in rather harsh conditions - vibration, increased dustiness, power surges and others. All this, sooner or later, leads to the fact that the tool will fail and require repair.

An electric rock drill is a complex engineering product that consists of assemblies that ensure the movement of a chuck with a drill installed in it. In essence, a rock drill is a device that converts electrical energy into mechanical energy.

The main malfunctions of the punch and their external signs

Depending on the operating conditions, this device may cause problems, both mechanically and electrically.

The hammer drill scheme is pretty close to that of an electric drill. One of the differences is that instead of the usual gear pair transmitting torque to the tool, a full-fledged gearbox is mounted in the hammer drill. It is designed to convert the torque generated by the electric motor into the reciprocating movement of the chuck.

Malfunctions requiring repair can occur in almost any part of the device. But before starting the repair, it is required to diagnose the breakdown and identify the reasons that led to its appearance.

It should be noted that detecting a breakdown is not difficult, but sometimes you have to disassemble the punch body for this.

Like any technical device, the electric rock drill has some weak points in the design. It is they who are the cause of breakdowns that require repair. It is not uncommon for a perforator to fail due to the fault of a worker who operates it in extreme modes and in violation of operating rules.

It must be understood that the main faults occur in the electrical or mechanical part. In the mechanical part, the following problems most often occur:

  • the device does not perform its main functions - drilling and drilling;
  • jamming of the drill in the chuck;
  • the nozzle is not installed in the chuck;
  • extraneous noise during the operation of the device.

In an electrician, the following defects are most often manifested:

  • the engine does not work;
  • excessive sparking of brushes;
  • the appearance of burning or the smell of burnt insulation.

The beginning of the repair begins with cleaning the body of the device. This is necessary at least to prevent dirt from getting into the disassembled perforator.

Mechanical breakdowns

When repairing an electric rock drill, there is often a need to disassemble it. But before you start it, you need to make sure once again that the problems have arisen precisely in the mechanical part of the device. We will analyze in detail what problems are encountered and how they can be eliminated

Gearbox malfunctions

Untimely maintenance, poorly performed repairs, operation of the hammer drill in extreme modes can lead to the fact that any part that is part of this mechanism can fail. To identify defects in the gearbox, it is necessary to disassemble it, rinse the parts and then carry out a thorough inspection.

Revealed damaged parts must be replaced with new ones. Then assemble the gearbox, of course, you need to put grease into it. By the way, the brand of lubricant should be indicated in the operating manual.

Cartridge malfunction

If the nozzle does not enter the working position, then most likely the reason lies in the cartridge. To eliminate this defect, there is no need to disassemble the tool. As a rule, interference with the installation of the nozzle consists in the fact that any debris has got into the cartridge.

Defective mode switch

To identify malfunctions in the mode switching device, the punch will still have to be disassembled. In principle, a defect can be identified by a careful examination of the switching mechanism.

In principle, the main components are listed, in which breakdowns most often occur and require repair. Meanwhile, there are several more types of defects that can arise for various reasons. For example, there is no impact hammer mode. That is, the drill rotates together with the chuck, but does not have an impact on the working surface. The most common cause, in this case, is a floating bearing. Damage to the steel striker may be another cause of this malfunction. In both cases, replacement of the defective part is required.

It is not uncommon for the engine to run when the tool is turned on, but the chuck does not rotate. This happens most often because the gearbox is stuck. By the way, keep the hammer turned on for a long time, it is unacceptable when the chuck is inoperative, the motor winding may burn out. The hammer drill will have to be disassembled and defects in the gearbox removed. They can be caused either by damage to the gears or by debris falling into it.

Another defect is that the chuck cannot fix the drill. This problem can arise with a tool that has been in use for a long time. The cause of this problem lies in the wear of the retainer housing mount.

Electrical faults

Malfunctions associated with the electrical part of the hammer drill can also cause serious problems. By the way, a failure in work can be caused by a trivial lack of voltage in the outlet.

By the way, troubleshooting should start with less. That is, it is necessary to check the presence of power in the electrical network, the integrity of the wire and outlet.

By and large, if the tool does not show any signs of life, it is likely that the electrical part of the tool is out of order. The main electrical defects include the following:

Lack of voltage in the supply network, cable break

Any electrical device can be connected for testing. If voltage is present in the network, then it is necessary to check the integrity of the cable.

To identify this defect, they inspect it, then, using a tester, ring it. To eliminate a cable break, you can either solder it or twist it. But it's best to replace it.

Start button malfunction

The cause of this defect may be elementary oxidation of the contacts in the button. To test this assumption, it is necessary to dismantle the rear casing cover. If there are no visible signs of oxidation, it is advisable to use a tester. To correct this malfunction, you can clean the contacts, but it is better to replace the power button.

Erasing brushes

With prolonged and intensive use of the perforator, the brushes wear out, through which electric current flows to the motor. With a lot of wear, they begin to spark and a burning smell appears. The brush must be at least 8 mm long.

Upon reaching this and smaller size, they are replaced. The replacement procedure is quite simple and anyone who is not even familiar with the basics of electrical engineering can handle it.

Breakage of the speed regulator

If this problem is identified, it is advisable to replace the entire assembly. But, in fairness, it should be noted that this defect is not common.

Motor malfunction

This is probably the worst defect that can occur with an electric tool. The user should understand that it is better not to repair the engine on his own. For this, there are specialized workshops equipped with all the necessary repair and diagnostic equipment.

When the engine is running, a certain layer of carbon deposits forms on the manifold. You can remove it yourself and then try to enable it. If this operation does not help, then it is necessary to ring the armature and stator. There are certain requirements for the resistance in the windings.

Repair of these units is permissible only in an electrical workshop. It is permissible to do this work at home, but only if you have special equipment and certain knowledge about the operation of the electric motor. This operation, performed at home, will significantly reduce the cost of repairing the hammer drill as a whole.

Important! Repair of the device is carried out with the tool disconnected from the electrical network.

Required tools and materials

To repair and restore the working capacity of the tool, you will need some keys, both ordinary open-end and hexagons, screwdrivers with different slots. A puller will be required to remove the bearings.

Disassembly and assembly of the perforator must be carried out using the kinematic and electrical circuits of the perforator.

Quick search for a breakdown

To diagnose a faulty hammer drill, most often there is no need to use special equipment and tools, with the exception of a tester and a device for rewinding the motor.

You can establish the cause of the breakdown using an ordinary inspection.

And in order to identify problems in the mechanism of the tool, it is desirable to know and understand its structure and principle of operation.

Rules of work or how to protect the device from damage

To ensure long-term and efficient operation of an electric rock drill, it is enough to follow a few simple rules. In particular:

  • When working, it is impractical to put strong pressure on the tool, at least there is no need for this, and moreover, with excessive pressure, the tool breaks down faster.
  • Operation of the electric hammer drill in idle mode is inadmissible.
  • When working with porous materials, it makes sense to turn off the impact mechanism. When working with particularly hard materials, it is advisable to use a lubricant.
  • When working, especially for a long time, it is necessary to monitor the heating of the housing, especially in the place where the gearbox is installed. If there is a noticeable heating, it is necessary to stop the work and wait until it cools down. Cooling water must not be used, its use may damage the gearbox parts.
  • Work with the tool should be carried out in the following mode - at least 10 minutes break after half an hour of work.

DIY repair

Do-it-yourself punch repair can be done only partially. But, for example, such a unit as an electric motor is still better done in a special workshop.

It is best to make repairs in the warranty workshop of the company from which it was purchased.

Only those materials recommended by the manufacturer should be used to lubricate the hammer drill assemblies.

Barrel hammer repair

The drum hammer differs from the traditional one in that the electric motor is located vertically and it cannot work in the drilling mode.

Therefore, due to the design features, in order to get to certain nodes, additional operations will have to be performed, in particular, to inspect the electric motor, it is necessary to remove the lower part of the casing or the cover. And to replace the brushes, special technological holes are provided in the body.

Replacing the power button

To replace this button, you will have to disassemble the case, disconnect it and install a new one in its regular place.

Replacing brushes

To replace the brushes, it is necessary to provide access to the brush assembly. To replace, it is necessary to release the brushes from the lock, install new ones in their place.

Replacing bearings

If extraneous sounds are heard during the operation of the punch, then there is a high probability that the bearing has reached a certain degree of wear. That is, it needs to be replaced.

To do this, it is necessary to complete or partially disassemble the case and gain access to the unit in which it is installed. It may require a puller to remove it. By the way, some bearings can be secured with retaining rings.

Replacing the cartridge

To replace a cartridge that has exhausted its resource, first of all, it is necessary to take into account which company produced this product. The thing is that the schemes for fixing the cartridges from different manufacturers have their own characteristics.

For example, to dismantle a chuck in a Bosch rotary hammer, you need to do the following manipulations - loosen the retaining ring, pull out the chuck and install a new one in its place.

Drunk Bearing Repair

In some models of this instrument, the impact is exerted by a drunken bearing. With intensive use, it can be destroyed.

To repair it, you need a flat-head screwdriver. After disassembling the housing, the bearing must be removed from the housing, disassembled, replaced with worn parts and installed in place.

Bell bushing and impact bolt repair

To repair the percussion mechanism of the punch, it is necessary to remove the raster sleeve, for this it is necessary to release the spring and the retaining ring. After that, the impact bolt is replaced with a new one, or sent for restoration.

Replacing the liner

The sleeve fails quite rarely. To replace it, the old one must be removed from the aluminum housing and a new one must be installed instead.

A hammer drill, like any electric tool, requires careful handling, correct operation and timely prevention. If you neglect these standards, then the device may fail without depleting its resource. For some malfunctions, a hammer drill can be repaired with your own hands, and to eliminate breakdowns associated with the electrical part of the engine, you will need specialist help.

All unit faults can be divided into 2 groups: mechanical and electrical.

Mechanical breakdowns

If any mechanical malfunction appears in the punch, then its presence can be determine by ear(noise rises, rattling appears).

You may also feel increased vibration or an unpleasant odor coming from the unit housing.

So, the following can be attributed to mechanical failures:

  • breakage of the device operating mode switch;
  • worn out rubber bands of the striker and striker;
  • failure of the striking mechanism;
  • failure of the unit barrel due to wear;
  • breakage of gear teeth;
  • breakage of the chuck causing the drill to fly out.

Electrical faults

Malfunctions associated with the electrical part of the punch can also be accompanied by an unpleasant odor from the body of the device, arcing. Also you can notice that the engine heats up quickly and hums not rotating, or smoke appears from it.

Electrical breakdowns of the device include such as:

  • the device does not turn on;
  • breakdown of the start button;
  • wear of brushes;
  • collector clogging;
  • violation of electrical contacts;
  • burnout of the stator or rotor winding of an electric motor.

Punch disassembly algorithm

To eliminate mechanical and electrical malfunctions (with the exception of a breakdown of the electrical plug), you cannot do without disassembling the unit body. The most popular among craftsmen, both home and professional, are the brands of perforators Bosch, Makita, Interskol, Energomash. The design of units from different manufacturers is approximately the same, therefore, the methods for disassembling the devices will be similar. However, you should not disassemble the device completely, as it will be difficult to assemble it back. The photo below shows how a fully disassembled punch looks like.

Removing the cartridge

Disassembly of the unit for troubleshooting should be carried out carefully, with an inspection of each removed part. To make the assembly easy, it is better to photograph the disassembly process. If you have not found external defects on the device, then it is recommended to start disassembling it with the cartridge.


We disassemble the case

If you need to disassemble the unit body, you must first remove the operating mode switch.


Dismantling the electrical part of the rotary hammer

To get to the electrical part of the device, if you suspect that there may be a breakdown, you must perform the following steps.


If it is required to disassemble a barrel rock drill, with a vertical electric drive, then the handle is first removed, and then the bolts holding the motor are unscrewed.

Replacing the brushes of the electric motor

The main sign that it is time to change the brushes is the formation of increased sparking in the area of ​​the electric motor collector, the rapid heating of the brush holders, and the smell of burning. When the brushes are not worn out, the spark can only be seen under them. Otherwise, the spark is visible all over the collector circle.

The presence of a spark in the circle of the collector with worn brushes is a sign of bearing wear, a violation of the rotor or stator insulation, burnout of the collector plates, a stator or rotor burnout.

Another sign that the stator has burned out is the presence of sparks under only one electrode. If you have a tester, then they can check stator and rotor: Measure the resistance of the rotor and stator alternately. If it is the same on both windings, then everything is in order with the stator. If you notice clear signs of problems with the rotor or stator in your hammer drill, you will have to take the device to a service center for repair. As for the brushes, you can change them yourself.

To get to the place where the brushes are installed, you will need to disassemble the housing in which the motor is installed, or simply remove the back cover. Opening the lid, you will see the brushes fixed in special holders. The photo below shows how these parts look.

There are 3 types of brushes that are installed on rotary hammer motors.

  1. Graphite- they are distinguished by their durability, but since they are very hard, then grinding them to the collector is not ideal, which negatively affects the latter.
  2. Coal- easily rub against the collector, providing good contact, but wear out quickly.
  3. Carbon-graphite- an ideal option, as they are a mixture of 2 components that complement each other.

It is very important not to wait for the engine to sparkle and then change the brushes. Replacement is needed after they are worn out by 1/3 of the nominal (8 mm). Even if one brush has worn less than the other, you still need to change both.

Pay attention to the condition of the spring in the new brushes and the attachment of the contact. If the spring is blown off while the engine is running, it will be severely damaged. Also, if the spring is weak, then it will not be able to provide good contact.

It is imperative that before changing the brushes, you need to do it well. clean the rotor and stator from the remains of graphite or coal dust. You can clean these parts with technical or medical alcohol.

Next, you should fix the electrodes in the holders and grind them to the collector. To do this, put a piece of fine-grain sandpaper on the collector and rotate in different directions to make lapping electrode... Lapping continues until the electrode contact area is slightly rounded. This will provide a better fit to the collector plates and, accordingly, better contact.

Diagram of the percussion mechanism, its malfunctions and repair

The impact mechanisms of perforators differ in their design, depending on which family the devices belong to. Therefore, the repair of these mechanisms will take place according to different principles.

Barrel punchers

Rotary hammers with a vertical engine usually have an impact unit based on a crank mechanism (KShM). Below is a diagram of this type of percussion mechanism.

The next photo shows the device in section, where you can see the location of the KShM.

The hammer mechanism of a unit with a vertical motor may have the following malfunctions. The connecting rod has a separate bearing that is mounted on the cam of the eccentric wheel, but sometimes it can be located at the base of the connecting rod. In some models of rock drills, a sleeve bearing (instead of a rolling bearing) can be installed in this place, which requires constant lubrication. If it is not there, or it is already old, then this knot wears out. During repairs, the connecting rod and eccentric barrel will have to be completely replaced.

Another common problem is the firing pin broke... This malfunction can be calculated if you notice that there is no more impact on your hammer drill. To get to the striker, you will need to completely disassemble the barrel of the device. It is done as follows.


In this case, the firing pin is intact. But if it is broken, then replace it with a new one. You should also pay attention to the rubber bands and the oil seals in the barrel body. If they are worn out, they must be replaced.

Pistol perforators

The device of the percussion mechanism of the pistol-type unit is slightly different from the mechanism of the same purpose installed in the barrel-type apparatus.

Its main difference is that the piston does not move with the help of a connecting rod, but from a swinging ("drunk") bearing. Therefore, the most common failure of this unit is the wear of a “drunken” bearing that needs to be replaced.

The next photo shows a broken "drunken" bearing, which is the reason the hammer stopped hammering.

The swinging bearing is removed with a flat screwdriver, with which you need to pick up the bracket and remove it. Thereafter, the bearing is easily separated from the gear housing.

When replacing a collapsed bearing, be careful flush the gearbox, since it is in its body that fragments of a broken part can remain.

After cleaning and installing a new bearing, apply a grease layer of grease to this unit.

Also, the reason that the device does not hit may be a broken firing pin. To get it, you need to remove the retaining ring, which is visible in the hole.

Take a small screwdriver, hook the ring with it, and slide it to the right (towards the gear).

Do the same on the other side of the part. Next, insert a screwdriver into the hole in the part and push the removed inner parts of the mechanism.

After this action, you can easily get the retaining ring, and the body in which the broken striker is located.

If you disassemble this case, then you will see the "culprit" of the malfunction, due to which the hammer drill does not hammer.

When assembling the hammer mechanism, be sure to apply generous grease to all parts.

Other mechanical failures and their elimination

In addition to breakdowns associated with the percussion mechanism, other mechanical breakdowns may occur in the hammer drill.

Mode switch

There are times when the unit's mode switch fails. This is mainly due to dust clogging of this node. To repair the switch, you will need to disconnect it from the case (see above for how to do this) and clean it from dirt. If you find any breakage in the plastic parts of the switch, it will have to be replaced.

Slant gears

The reason that the device stopped working normally, namely, stopped drilling and chiseling, may lie in worn teeth on the rotor shaft.

If this happens, the teeth will also be worn out at the intermediate helical gear.

This problem occurs when the tool is jammed or the clutch is not working properly. The breakage is eliminated by replacing the intermediate gear and the engine rotor.

The drill does not hold in the chuck

The reason that the hammer drill does not hold the drill lies in the breakdown of the cartridge and the wear of the parts included in its composition:

  • there was a deformation of the balls;
  • the stop ring is worn out;
  • the fixing spring has sagged.

You will need to disassemble the cartridge and replace the problem parts.

Drill stuck in a hammer drill

The reasons that the drill got stuck in the chuck of the apparatus may be as follows.

  1. Before installing the tool, you have not applied any lubricant to the shank. You will need to push back the chuck sealing gum and inject into the WD-40 tool seat.
  2. Dust got under the balls. Follow the same operation as above.
  3. If you used a conventional drill inserted into the adapter in the hammer drill, then also process it liquidWD-40, wait a couple of minutes, and, lightly tapping with a hammer on the clamping surface, loosen the rig in different directions. Typically, after these steps, the clamping jaws open and allow the drill to be removed.
  4. The tool shank is riveted. You will first need to fill in the WD-40 liquid and try to pull out the drill. If all else fails, then you need to disassemble the cartridge and knock out the equipment. You can also use the tips on how to get the tool stuck in the device from this video.

A home craftsman who is able to use a hammer drill may well cope with its repair. It will be about restoring the perforator's performance.

Disassembled hammer drill

Perforators have firmly taken their place in the arsenal of the working tool of home craftsmen. Like any other power tool, it can fail. It is not at all necessary to immediately run to the workshop, the repair of the punch can be done by hand... Especially its mechanical part.

We will analyze the principle of operation and the device of the perforator

The tools may differ in power, functionality, but the principle of operation and design concept are the same. Of course, we are talking about electromechanical versions. pneumatic hammer drills are the lot of specialized service centers.

So, we have in our hands a standard household or professional electric rotary hammer. The main elements of the device:

Punch mechanism in section

  • Electric motor. It can be located along the spindle of the chuck, or perpendicular - the difference is not important.
  • Reducing gear. Provides a reduction in rotational speed and simultaneously increases the torque of the working axle
  • Impact mechanism. This is exactly the device that distinguishes the hammer drill from a conventional electric drill.
  • Cartridge. Receives the loads of the working attachment and transmits torque and shock to the working area. Serves as a lock for attachments. The most common standard is SDS.

The fundamental difference in design concerns only the striking mechanism. In most modern devices, an electro-pneumatic method of transferring impact energy is used. The piston makes reciprocating movements, and with the help of an air cushion transfers energy to the ram, which in turn strikes the striker, which has a mechanical connection with the cartridge.

The advantage of the design is the high impact energy and the absence of a mechanical connection between the ram and the piston.

The compressed air acts as a damper to reduce the vibration of the tool.

This method of operation allows the striking mechanism to be automatically disengaged at idle speed. Perforation occurs only when the tip pressure is applied to the working area. When you apply force towards the drilling, the bypass valve closes, the cylinder becomes sealed and the compressed air drives the ramming mechanism. This saves the resource of the main hammer units.

The transmission of vibrations in the electro-pneumatic percussion mechanism is realized in two ways:

How the tool works

  1. Crank mechanism. A crank is located on the gearbox shaft, which gives a reciprocating motion to the piston. This design provides high power transmission of impact energy, and is used in medium and heavy rock drills. The disadvantage is the large size. The main advantage is high reliability and reduced vibration on the body.
  2. Oscillating bearing. Reciprocating movements are transmitted by a specially shaped outer bearing race. This design is compact, and is used in light-type rock drills. The main disadvantage is the rapid wear of the swing bearing.