Do-it-yourself hip roof: step-by-step instructions, drawings, photos and videos. Building a hip roof with your own hands How to build a hip roof yourself

Hip roofs offer an impressive list of compelling benefits. Among them are a spectacular shape, uniformity of heating and reliable protection of the house from precipitation. Due to the absence of gables, hip structures are not afraid of significant wind loads. Compared to gable options, there is much less reason to fear deformations.

The list of pluses can be continued, but their flow is slowed down by a very weighty circumstance: the hip roof truss system does not please with the simplicity of the device. However, complexity will not stop an independent builder if he is familiar with the nuances of building a hipped frame.

Hip roofs differ from their gable counterparts in that there are no vertical walls of gables in their design. The place of the pediments was taken by triangular slopes located at the ends, significantly reducing the real and visual volume of the roof.

The economic effect of volume reduction is a moot point. When cutting large-sheet material into hip slopes, costs, on the contrary, increase. For example, laying a profiled sheet or will force you to fork out for the purchase of a coating one and a half times more than for the arrangement of a standard pitched structure.

The purchase of piece material will reduce the construction budget, because you won’t have to spend money on sheathing the ends of the roof.

By analogy with any of the building structures, the hip roof can be divided into simple geometric shapes. In the simplest version, without conjugations and valleys, she has two pairs of symmetrical slopes: two triangles and two trapezoids. On this basis, the hip roof received the parallel name "four-pitched".

Viewed from the front, its section resembles an ordinary triangular gable roof. In profile, the structure has a trapezoidal configuration, which can also be divided into a rectangle with two mirror-image triangles on the sides.

The shape of the trapezoid depends on the architectural preferences of the owner. It is determined by the ratio of the length of the cornice overhang to the length of the ridge. The part of the structure, bounded by a rectangle, is constructed in accordance with hanging or layered technological roofing standards.

The hips that replaced the gables are set at a certain angle to the horizon, because. they are obliged to adjoin the inclined sides of the trapezium. It is in their device that the main snag of the hip truss system lies, because it will not work with the usual pitched method. After all, the ridge run does not completely cover the slope. Therefore, the rafter legs of the hips and the triangular parts of the large slopes associated with them literally have nothing to lean on with their upper heels.

The support for them will be special sloping rafter legs connecting the ridge run with the corners of the structure. If you look at the hip rafter structure from above, then the rafters will look like diagonals.

The installation direction was the reason for obtaining the second technological name - "diagonal". Naturally, rafter legs of different sizes in length will rely on the diagonals, because. they are installed perpendicular to the roof overhangs. They have their own name - narozhniki.

Summing up the information, we get that the following will be involved in the construction of the truss frame for the hip roof:

Ordinary rafter legs, resting on the lower part on the Mauerlat or on the floor beams. Depending on the type of support, they can be hanging or layered.
Diagonal rafters connecting the corners of the roof and the edges of the ridge run. Note that they are used not only in the arrangement of the convex corners of the hip roofs, but also in the construction of the concave corners of the valleys.
Narozhniki, forming the planes of the hips and parts of large slopes adjacent to the rafters.

The installation of hanging and layered rafter legs is carried out according to the rules according to which it is being built. We will deal with their diagonal counterparts and with rafter half-legs-spiders.

Diagonal rafter legs

Taking into account the diagonal arrangement, it is easy to guess that the length of the slopes is greater than the length of ordinary rafter legs. In addition, they serve as supports for the sparrows. In view of what the rafters are loaded one and a half times more than ordinary analogues. Therefore, it is customary to make them paired from two boards with a section equal to the same size of material for ordinary rafter legs.

Pairing of slanted rafters simultaneously solves three technical problems:

Allows you to safely increase the load due to the double cross-section of the bearing element.
Provides the opportunity to obtain a diagonal structural element of any length without sections weakened by building.
Eliminates the need for purposeful purchase of rafter timber.

Due to their length, diagonal rafters need additional supports, the number of which depends on the length of the rafter leg.

Supports for diagonal rafters

Regardless of the scale of construction, any scheme of the hip roof truss system includes supports to reinforce the diagonal rafter legs. If the design size of the swath is more than 9m, i.e. it covers a span equivalent in meters, its stability is provided by two additional supports. For smaller spans, one support located in the upper zone of the span is sufficient.

As a support for the diagonal rafters can be used:

Rack installed vertically directly on the ceiling. A piece of waterproofing is laid between it and the ceiling if the rack is to rest against a reinforced concrete slab.
Strut. It is installed, as it should be for braced rafters, at an angle, the size of which is allowed to vary from 45º to 53º. The magnitude of the slope does not play a special role. It is important that the brace itself supports the rafter in the most loaded area. The lower heel of the strut rests on the bed.
Sprengel. It is a T-shaped short beam of timber, turned upside down. It is used in the construction of large spans that require two or more reinforcing supports. The sprengel is installed so that its base is perpendicular to the rafter. It is located at the bottom of a large span closer to the corner of the roof. Instead of a sprengel, a regular short stance can be used.

They make additional supports again from a double board or bar, installed at the most loaded points.

A video review will acquaint you with the nuances of the support device for the hip roof frame:

The nuances of supporting slanting rafters

The upper heel of the diagonal rafter rests on the ridge run in various ways. The choice of method depends on the design features of the truss system:

In truss structures with one run along the central axis of the roof, the diagonal rafter legs rest directly on the run consoles.
In truss systems with two runs and plank rafter legs, the diagonal rafters rest on a truss, which in turn rests on both runs.
In truss frames with two runs and rafters made of timber, in addition to the sprengel, a surf is used - a short plank that stitches ordinary rafter legs in the ridge area. The thickness of the reinforcing shorty is from 5 cm or more.

The heel of the diagonal rafters for landing on one of the listed upper stops is hemmed in fact. Fastening is done with nails. If necessary, fixation can be strengthened with wire twists or metal clamps.

The lower heels of the braids can rest against the corner of the Mauerlat or a specially installed corner beam. You can just lean on them. Diagonal rafter legs are fastened with metal brackets, nailing over a wooden lining or corners.

Narozhniki and methods of their device

The spears form hips and triangular parts of large slopes. The top of the half-leg rests on the rafter, the lower heel on the mauerlat, mortise beam or wooden floor beam.

Installation of sprockets can be carried out:

By cutting. In the braids, nests are chosen so that the half-legs of adjacent slopes are not located opposite each other. It is recommended that the distance between the cuts be at least 20 cm. Therefore, in the installation step, the spawners are allowed to move so as not to cut down the nests at one point.
By installing cranial bars serving as supports for the semi-legs. Bars 50 × 50mm are built up along the lower edges on both sides of the diagonal rafter. Their presence allows you to abandon the cuts, significantly weakening the bearing element.

The second option is easier to work with and is preferable due to the increased rigidity of the structure. In addition, it absolutely does not oblige to change the installation step of the half-rafters: they can be located opposite each other. The sprigs are attached to the Mauerlat or beams in the same way that they used to install ordinary rafters.

Elementary hip truss system

The easiest way to crown a suburban property with a four-slope structure is to buy and install ready-made roof trusses. However, it is much more interesting, more useful, cheaper to do the installation of a hip roof and a truss system suitable for it with your own hands.

Especially if it is planned to build it over a small outbuilding, gazebo or summer kitchen. On simple structures, it is even worth practicing before applying efforts to more responsible objects.

Note that in the example below there is no overlap, the attic is not fenced and there is no insulation. Snow practically does not linger on the slopes, i.e. the rafter legs are subject to the minimum load by their standard standards. The principle of scatter between the spawners has not been preserved.

All nodal connections are made with a nail trap and metal corners. The contractor will need a 5 × 25 cm board for the manufacture of rafter legs and a run, as well as moisture-resistant plywood for the construction of a continuous crate, because the building is planned to be covered with bituminous tiles.

Stage 1: Modeling and design

Regardless of the architectural complexity of the building structure, it needs a project. It will help determine the optimal form and save you from buying unnecessary materials. For a simple hip roof with a standard truss system, super-complex drawings are not required, but at least a simple sketch is necessary.

Instruction for simplified design:

We measure the width / height / length of the building. According to the data, we draw the profile and full face of the building on a sheet of paper on a scale, for example, 1:50. This means that all dimensions will need to be divided by 50. That is. the wall of the house with dimensions of 5 × 2.5 m on a home-made drawing will be shown as a rectangle with sides of 10 × 5 cm. If it comes out too small, you can choose a larger scale - 1:40, 1:25, etc. It is advisable to duplicate the finished sketch a couple of times in stock.
We choose the optimal height of the roof and the angle of its steepness. To do this, on one of the duplicates of the sketch, draw several options for the outline of the roof. We determine the most successful and measure the angle of inclination of future slopes with a protractor.
We mark on the duplicate of the sketch the installation points of the layered rafters, this is a step. We need to divide both walls into equal segments. It is not necessary that the installation step under the hip and pentagonal slope be the same. In the example, the distance between the rafter legs on both walls of the building is 20 inches, which is 50.8 cm. In fact, the installation step can vary from 0.4 to 2.1 m. However, we note that too often installed rafters will significantly increase the consumption of material, and too rarely will force the structure to be reinforced with an additional counter-lattice.
Decide on the length of the skate. Let's draw it on a duplicate of the template, given that the ridge beam must connect a whole number of pairs of rafters. Set aside equal distances from both edges of the long walls.
We transfer all the results to the main sheet and calculate how much material is needed. We consider the length of the rafters on the outer sides, taking into account the length of the cornice overhangs of 40-50 cm. Plywood consumption is calculated by the number of solid panels per each plane of a hipped roof.

By the number of rafters, we calculate the number of fasteners. We need nails in literally all nodal fasteners. There should be a pair of corners for each rafter leg. Do not forget to buy a board with a small margin in case of flaws in your own work.

To install a hip roof on brick and foam concrete walls, you will need a bar for the construction of a Mauerlat. It is not needed if the installation of the truss system is carried out on wooden walls.

Stage 2: Construction of the main part of the hip roof

First of all, we will build auxiliary scaffolding on the basis that a full-length home master should be placed between the plane of a home-made stand such as a high bench and a ridge run.

The start of the installation of the truss system for the future hip roof is the installation of the ridge part of the structure:

We nail to the walls of the building connected with the hips along an auxiliary board, one edge of which should coincide with the central axis. Between the boards we stretch the lace, repeating the central axis.
We try on a pair of rafters to the end of the building. They should intersect directly under the lace. In fact, we outline the lines of saw cuts of the upper heels, not forgetting that there will be a run 5 cm thick between the rafter legs.
According to the templates obtained, we prepare layered rafters.
We install the rafter legs in pairs according to the marks of the main part of the system. Temporarily fasten with one nail.
We install the ridge run between the upper heels, which previously freely leaned against each other.
We nail the rafters to the run.
We attach the bottom of the rafters to the Mauerlat or the upper crown of the house with metal corners.

We dismantle the auxiliary boards, we will no longer need them.

Stage 3: Construction of hip slopes

We fasten the hip part of the rafter system in the same way: the lower heels are cornered to the Mauerlat or to the upper crown, the upper ones are fixed with nails. We work in the following sequence:

We try on the first slope rafter to the slope, we mark the cut line in fact. The bottom of the rafter must pass exactly through the corner marking point.
Saw off the marked excess. We nail the diagonal leg to the ridge console, fix the bottom with corners.
We do the same with the other three braids.
We fill the hip ramp with sprigs, having previously tried on each detail to the right place and sawed off the excess.
We install pentagonal ramps.

At the end of the work, the rafters through one are screwed with wire twists to the wooden corks laid in the walls or to the second crown, so that the structure is not torn off by a strong gust of wind.

There is a way to lay twists of annealed wire into the masonry during the construction process for the subsequent fixation of the truss system. On top of the wire twist there should be three more rows of brickwork or two rows of foam blocks.

A crate is laid on the finished rafter system. In the case of a soft roof, as in the above case, the crate is made solid from inches, plywood or similar plates as a coating. Between the plates or boards leave a gap of 3 mm. For hard materials, the crate is constructed from a bar with the step recommended by the instruction.

Construction of complex hip roofs

The principle of the construction of hip roof frames with a more complex architecture is slightly different from the above example. The sequence of work is exactly the same. True, the layered rafter legs are still more reasonable and more reliable to fix with the help of cuttings.

It is highly desirable to use supports for diagonal rafters. And before mounting the ridge part, support frames are installed with a bed at the bottom and a ridge run at the top. Another change in the angle of inclination of the slopes when supported by a notch should be taken into account at the design stage.

How to build a more complex truss system for an interesting hip roof, see the video:

The hip-type truss system is more complicated than the frame of a conventional gable roof, but you can deal with its device. A four-slope design is preferable in many cases; it looks more interesting both above houses, and above gazebos and other household buildings. The described version of the construction will help to master the basics in the construction of hip structures, and with a successful result, the continuation will certainly follow.

A four-pitched hip roof is considered a rather complex and material-intensive structure, which few homeowners undertake to build with their own hands. But if you decide on independent construction, first go through the preparatory path - study the theoretical materials, including those presented in this publication. Then assemble a layout of a small rafter system in order to deal with the nodes, the nuances of their manufacture and the calculation of the amount of timber. So, let’s take the first step and consider…

Design features

This type of roofing structure, shown in the photo, is an ordinary ridge roof, but without vertical gables. Instead, 2 additional slopes are made on the sides of the building - hips with a different slope angle.

Reference. If all 4 planes are tilted at the same angle, then another type of roof will be obtained - hipped roof. Since its slopes converge at one point in the form of a dome, there is no ridge as such.

The hip roof truss system consists of the following elements (shown in the diagram):

mauerlat, bed - a powerful strapping beam mounted on the upper plane of the walls along the perimeter of the building and internal partitions;
roofing slopes are formed due to inclined beams installed with a calculated interval - rafter legs;
together with stiffening elements - puffs, racks and braces - the rafters form roof trusses;
ridge run - a beam connecting the upper points of the trusses;
in some designs, the lower part of the rafter legs is lengthened due to an additional detail - a filly.

Along the line of convergence of the planes, hip rafters are installed, resting on the corners of the building. Their slope coincides with the angle of the main slopes. But the end rafter legs, called sprigs, form steeper or gentler slopes on the sides of the house.

In the construction of 4-pitched roofs, 2 types of trusses are used - hanging and layered. In the first, the lower belt (puff) relies only on the external fences of a private house, therefore it is irrational to put them on too long spans due to the increased consumption of materials for stiffeners. Hanging truss device, see the drawing:

The advantage of layered structures is the ability to rely on a capital interior partition and overlap large spans without increasing material consumption. Roofing beginners should pay attention to these trusses, as they are more reliable and easier to install.

If it is planned to arrange a residential attic on the attic floor, then the slope of the main slopes increases, and the farm receives 2 supports in the form of racks that form the walls of the room. It is customary to put these details on the beds or floor beams of a wooden house. The ceilings of the attic room are formed thanks to horizontal puffs connecting the rafters on top, as done in the diagram:

Hip roof device step by step

Like any serious structure, a hip roof is built by hand in several stages:

Creation of a project with the calculation of load-bearing structures.
Logging and other roofing materials.
Installation of the truss system.
Laying a coating with insulation (if necessary).

Design advice. So that you do not have to worry about the reliability of the building, it is strongly recommended to entrust the design work to engineers, regardless of financial costs. They will calculate all the parameters - the installation step of the rafters, their cross section, the number of struts and puffs in accordance with the weather conditions in your area.

Above, as an example, a drawing of a hipped roof with layered trusses covering 2 spans of 4.5 m is shown. The length of the main rafter legs is 6 m, the height of the ridge is 4 m, the angle of inclination is 41 °. This design can be taken as a basis if the width of the building does not exceed that indicated on the drawing (9 meters). Consider an important point: the more the hips are tilted, the greater the load experienced by the sprigs and the central ridge knot, where they rest. In this example, the hips are best placed at an angle of 45-50 °.

The most difficult thing in the construction of hip roofs is the correct installation of the splicing units of the corner rafters with the Mauerlat and the upper belt of the trusses in different designs. This is another reason to consult with designers who design individual junctions. So that you understand what we are talking about, we present drawings of the upper support node, where the hip rafter leg adjoins the ridge.

Some designs do not provide for the manufacture and installation of a ridge run between trusses. Then the hip ribs are attached to the puff and additional struts, as the drawing prescribes:

The lower support node of the leg on the Mauerlat and the splicing of the rafters looks somewhat simpler, although in reality it requires careful sawing of the boards at various angles, which is reflected in the diagram.

For a visual acquaintance with a more complex system, where the hip is combined with a bay window, we suggest watching a training video:

Lumber selection

Before you make a hip roof truss system, you should choose high-quality and dried wood. In terms of price-quality ratio, the most suitable option is coniferous wood - spruce, larch or pine. Pronounced knotiness, rot and traces of vital activity of insect pests are unacceptable.

We present the most "running" sizes of lumber used for the phased construction of hip roofs:

main rafter - single board 50 x 200 mm or double 40 x 150 mm;
mauerlat: minimum section - 100 x 150 mm, optimal - 20 x 20 cm;
narozhniki - board 5 x 15 cm;
runs - timber 50 x 150 or 50 x 200 mm;
struts, crossbars - a board with a thickness of 25 to 50 mm;
racks - a bar 5 x 10 cm.

A set of mounting plates and corners will also not be superfluous

Note. If roofing structures are calculated for you by design engineers, then they will also draw up a specification of all materials with dimensions.

On the crate for laying corrugated board or metal tiles, boards with a thickness of 25-32 mm are traditionally used, and bars 5 x 5 cm are used on the counter-lattice.

Mounting the strapping beam on the walls

Unlike gable roofs, where the Mauerlat is installed on the side walls, under the hips, the strapping is done around the entire perimeter. An exception is frame, log and lumber houses, where the upper wall crossbar or the last tier of logs acts as a Mauerlat. Then grooves are made in it, where the rafter legs are inserted, as shown in the photo.

On the walls of light cellular stone - aerated concrete and foam block - before laying the strapping, a reinforcing reinforced concrete belt is arranged. Mounting studs are embedded in it, on which a strapping beam is subsequently put on. Step by step the order of work looks like this:

Installation of panel formwork, knitting of the reinforcing cage with embedded parts and pouring the belt with M200 concrete mix.
Waterproofing the concrete surface with roofing felt or bituminous primer.
Installation of the beam and its fixation on the studs.

Mauerlat corner connections are made by cutting into half a tree. In the same way, the timber is increased in length if the standard size of 6 m is not enough. Also, horizontal struts are made in the corners or iron brackets are driven in, which do not allow the beams to move apart under the load of the main and hip rafters.

Advice. Be sure to treat all wooden parts with an antiseptic and flame retardant. One protects the wood from decay, and the second increases its fire resistance.

Assembling the truss system

Roof trusses of large sizes are usually mounted on site, because it will take twice as many workers to lift them from the ground. In wooden houses, first of all, all ceiling beams are installed, and temporary flooring is arranged on them. For the installation of a high ridge, scaffolding will also be needed.

The phased assembly of the hip roof structure is carried out in the following order:

As with the construction of a gable roof, the first step is to place the central supports, where the ridge run is attached.
The installation of the main rafters is carried out, which are cut from above and below at the desired angle. On the ridge, the oncoming rafter legs are brought out into one plane and fastened with steel plates on self-tapping screws (yellow, not black). Beams are fixed to the Mauerlat with corners.
After installing the main trusses, tighten them with crossbars and struts according to the drawings, using bolts for fastening.
Install the ribs - the extreme hip rafters. Their connection with the ridge and strapping timber is carried out according to one of the schemes proposed above.
Saw off and nail the sprigs to the frame. Each of them is cut at different angles, determined by measuring at 4 points (along each edge of the board).
If necessary, fix the fillies to provide an overhang of 0.5 m, and hem the eaves with boards.

Advice. Since the hip ribs are very long, they must be increased and additional supports should be placed. Make the joint near the ridge, where the load on the roof is less, and mount the supports closer to the Mauerlat.

How the elements of the hip structure are attached in reality, see the following video:

Laying the finish coat

This final operation is carried out according to the traditional technology, which provides for ventilation of the under-roof space and the installation of a waterproofing layer from a diffusion membrane. The latter does not allow moisture to penetrate from the street into the attic, at the same time, the film freely passes water vapor out. There is only one difference from covering ordinary gable roofs: additional flashings are placed along the fracture lines (on the hip ribs).

The coating material is laid in the following order:

The rafter system is completely covered with a diffusion membrane. The canvases are rolled out horizontally with an overlap of at least 100 mm, starting from the bottom. Joints must be sealed with adhesive tape.
The film is nailed to the outer edges of the rafters through the bars of the counter-lattice with a section of 5 x 5 cm, providing ventilation under the metal tile or other material.
Perpendicular to the direction of the rafter legs, the boards of the crate are nailed. The installation interval depends on the selected coating, and for soft tiles, the packing is continuous.
Roofing material and all fittings are mounted on the ends of the roof, as well as around ventilation and chimneys.

Note. The bars of the counter-lattice, nailed to the rafters, should not become an obstacle to the ventilation air. Therefore, they are specially shortened to a length of 2-3 m and nailed with a gap of 5-10 cm between adjacent elements.

The insulation of the hip roof is done both during the installation of the coating and after it, the main thing is to assemble the correct “pie” shown in the diagram. In the first case, the mineral wool is laid from above, under the waterproofing, and in the second - from the inside.

Conclusion

It must be understood that the advantages of a hip roof over a gable roof are few. Firstly, it is a beautiful architectural solution, and secondly, it reduces the wind load on the side facades of a private house. But for this, the homeowner will have to pay for the increased consumption of timber and the complication of construction, and hence the time costs. Hence the advice: do not rush into a decision and think carefully about the pros and cons. But if you have already taken it, then do the roofing with high quality, for yourself, without saving money on consultations with civil engineers.

A novice craftsman can make many mistakes during the construction of a hip-type roof. The reason for this is not even the complexity of the design or installation, but the incorrect execution of the preparatory design work. Every professional builder knows that to cut once, you need to measure at least seven. Therefore, it is built with its own hands only on the basis of engineering calculation and a plan drawn up according to it. Next, read how to calculate the main parameters of the roof, select the cross-section of its elements and perform high-quality installation.

Design features

The hip roof is one of the varieties of the hipped roof. If you look at a house with such a roof from above, its shape will resemble a sealed envelope. Two slopes of a smaller area in the form of a triangle are called hip. And the other two have a trapezoidal shape and a larger size. The hip subtype roof device consists of the following nodes:

Skate. This is the top of the roof, the line that the rafter pairs form at their junction. The peculiarity of the hip roof ridge is that its length is less than the length of the structure to be covered.
Hips. Hips are called triangular slopes, which are located above the end walls. They replace the pediment and are formed by diagonal and intermediate rafters.
Skatov. The hip roof, in addition to the hip ones, has two trapezoidal slopes that start from the ridge and end with an overhang.
Ribs. Ribs are the angles formed at the junction of the hips and trapezoidal slopes. The number of hip roof ribs coincides with the number of diagonal rafters, that is, there are four in total.
Drainage system. Drainage, consisting of funnels, pipes and gutters, is necessary to drain excess liquid from the surface of the hip roof into the storm sewer.

Please note that the device of the hip-type roof does not allow making a residential attic in it, since two additional slopes significantly reduce the ceiling in the under-roof room.

Rafters and supporting elements

The hip truss system is somewhat different from the gable, the complicated design of the slopes requires a larger number of elements. It includes:

Elements of the hip roof truss system

Skate ride. A beam on which rafter pairs are connected.
Diagonal rafters. Four rafter legs forming hip ribs. From the end of the ridge, they depart to the corner joints of the Mauerlat, connecting with the Mauerlat. Their length is greater than that of ordinary rafters, therefore, double boards or material of a larger section are used for their manufacture. It is interesting that the angle of the diagonal rafter legs is flatter than that of the intermediate ones, this should not be forgotten when drawing up the drawings.
Intermediate or ordinary rafters. Rafter legs, which are fixed with the top on the ridge run, and with the end on the Mauerlat.
Central ordinary rafters. Six rafters that join with the end of the ridge and the diagonal rafter leg. A labor-intensive node of the truss system, the installation of which requires attention and precise marking.
Short legs or stalks. Short rafter legs do not touch the ridge at the top, they are attached to diagonal rafters. The lower the sprig is, the shorter its length.
Puff. Jumper between an ordinary rafter pair, made of timber. The puff located in the upper part of the roof, under the very ridge, is called the crossbar. And as the lower puff, fixed at the base of the rafters, floor beams are used.
Rack. A vertically mounted beam that supports the ridge, transferring the weight of the roof to the load-bearing partitions. In some versions of the truss system, racks are installed in the middle of the rafters to free the center of the attic room.
Brace or rafter legs. Supports fixed perpendicular to the rafters. The brace protects the rafters from sagging, it is necessary if the length of the roof slopes is more than 4.5-5 m.
Sprengel. A truss truss is a device that is necessary to support diagonal rafter legs. It consists of two beams: one connects the two sides of the Mauerlat, and the second rests on the first and diagonal rafters.

Experienced roofers say that the truss system will only come out reliable if you use the same material, the same section and the same method of fastening for the manufacture of elements.

Calculation and design work

Before building a hip-type roof, you need to calculate the elements of its design. Before starting the calculations, a diagram of the overlapped house with all known sizes is outlined. Further, using simple geometric formulas based on the Pythagorean theorem, determine:

Hip roof parameters

The height of the skate
h \u003d b x tgα / 2, where b is the length of the structure between the rafter legs on the end side, and α is the angle of the slopes.
The length of ordinary rafters.
e \u003d b / 2 x cosα, where b is the length of the structure between the rafter legs on the end side, and α is the angle of the slopes, e is the length of ordinary rafter legs.
Area of slopes.
S = 2ea, where S is the total surface area of the slopes of the hip roof, e is the length of ordinary rafters, and is the length between the rafter legs along the length of the structure.

Diagonal rafter length factor

Hip roof drawing with dimensions

For standard values of the slope of the slopes of the hip roof, there are tables with coefficients with which you can determine the length of the diagonal rafters without calculations, knowing the dimensions of the privates. The step between the rafter pairs is also looked at in reference materials, focusing on the type of wood, its thickness and the length of the slopes. The results of the calculations are applied to the drawing, according to which the markup is subsequently made.

Mauerlat installation

Mauerlat - the base on which the roof is installed. Mauerlat is necessary in order to distribute the weight of the roof along the perimeter of the load-bearing partitions. Most often, hardwood timber is used for its manufacture. The heavier and more complex the roof device, the larger the cross section of the Mauerlat should be. In most cases, a pine beam with a size of 150x150 mm or more will do. Mauerlat is installed before building a house, in the following order:

Applying the markings of the hip roof

Measure and saw off a bar of the required length. In the corners, the Mauerlat is connected to each other "in the paw". To cut a groove for fastening, you need to apply markings.
On the top row of masonry, a formwork is constructed from boards and poured with viscous concrete, into which metal spiers are inserted to fasten the Mauerlat beam.
After the concrete has hardened, you need to create a waterproofing layer between it and the Mauerlat. To do this, bituminous mastic can be applied to the concrete or the surface of the screed can be covered with roofing material.
Treat the timber with an antiseptic preparation, a deep penetration flame retardant and a moisture-proof varnish.
Mark and drill holes in the Mauerlat for metal studs.
Put the beam on the studs and tighten firmly with anchor bolts.

It is important that each hole made reduces the strength of the Mauerlat, so you should not use a large number of studs, and it is strictly forbidden to make cuts in it for mounting rafters!

Construction process

A do-it-yourself hip roof is built according to clear instructions that describe the sequence of each step. In order for the result to justify the time and materials spent, the work should be carried out according to the technology:

The hip roof is optimal for honest construction, but to build it yourself, you need calculations, design and patience, without which it is impossible to succeed.

Video instruction

The hip roof is often used in the architectural solutions of country houses built in the European style. Its design is not only reliable, but also very aesthetic. And, taking as a basis even the simplest version of it, you can diversify it with various elements that will become a kind of decoration for the whole structure and a sign of sophistication of style.

A do-it-yourself hip roof, drawings of which you need to select or prepare in advance, can be done independently, but one master obviously cannot cope with such a volume and complexity of work.

What is a hip roof?

The most common a simple hip roof scheme consists of four slopes, two of which are triangular in shape - they are called "hips". They are located at the ends of the building and connect the ridge with the cornice. Two frontal planes in the form of a trapezoid have a large area and a slope, which is also located from the ridge to the eaves.

Hip roof - top view

It should be noted that there are half-hipped roofs - they are also referred to as the Dutch type. In this case, during construction, the cornices of the end slopes are located much higher than the front ones. Installation of such a roof, as a rule, is carried out in cases where a living space is arranged in its space.

The basics of hip roof construction

The traditional hip system consists of certain units and elements that are always mounted in the same way and are the basis for more complex roofs of this type. This figure shows just such a design, which includes the following details:

1 - The corner rafter or rib is always placed at a smaller angle than the same, but intermediate elements of the system. For such a roof structure, boards with a section of 50 × 150 mm are suitable for both side and intermediate rafters.

2 - Short rafter legs are not fixed on the ridge, but on the corner rafter board. They should have the same slope as the intermediate rafters.

3 - The ridge in this case has the same cross-sectional size as the rafter legs.

4 - Rafters that converge and join at the corners of the ridge on three sides are called central rafters.

5 - Intermediate rafters are the legs that connect the ridge and the strapping, passing through the upper part of the building, and forming a cornice.

In the following diagram, in addition to those already mentioned, you can see the device of other structural elements.

After the rafters, you can see the rack that supports the ridge and is installed at the junction of two beams. These elements are not always used, sometimes they are simply replaced with other retaining parts, for example, in cases where the space under the roof must be free if it is planned to arrange a room in it.
The puff is a fastening element for the rafters. Most often, it also plays the role of a floor beam.
The filly is mounted to the installed rafter legs to increase the roof overhang, which will become a protection from atmospheric precipitation for the gap under the roof and the upper part of the walls.
The wind beam is attached to the rafters obliquely from that side of the roof, which is considered windy. Sometimes it is installed on both trapezoidal slopes.
The rafter or short rafter is used only in the hip structure and is attached to the corner rafter.
Mauerlat is present in any truss system and is a bar that is attached around the entire perimeter of the walls of the building.
Sprengel is another detail of the system, giving it rigidity and relieving the load from the walls. It is installed diagonally, relative to the corners of the building and fixed to the Mauerlat.
The struts are installed at different angles to the rafter legs, depending on whether the attic will be used to create an additional room.
The rib, diagonal or side rafters can be installed either on one side of the roof or on both sides, depending on the intended design.
Runs in given case, they call the distance between the fastening of the rafters to the ridge beam - it will depend on the weight of the selected roofing material and the expected snow load in the construction area.

Stages of work on the installation of a hip roof

If a hip structure is chosen for the roof of the house, then work on it must be carried out in strict sequence:

Any project begins with drawing up a diagram of the truss system.

The next step is the calculation of all parameters, which will depend on the width of the distance between the walls of the house and the presence of capital partitions inside the building.
Further, according to the calculations, the necessary materials are acquired and the tools necessary for work are prepared.
Then comes preparation for tying. walls for installation of trusssystems - flooring waterproofing material.
The walls are marked for the installation of the truss system.
The most important stage - installation the entire system according to the project.
Final stage - device roofs.

Preparation of the roof scheme

The roof scheme can be different - it will depend on the imagination and capabilities of the owner of the house, as well as on the location of the walls of the building. When drawing up the scheme, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that the more complex the roof structure is, the more material will be needed for it, and the installation of the system will take longer.

If the design is very complex, then the best option would be to seek the help of professionals who will help you correctly calculate the thickness and number of elements necessary for the reliability of the system. Of course, it will take some time to draw up such a project and certain financial resources will be spent, but it is better to use the development of specialists than to act at random and get an unreliable design.

Calculation of system parameters

If the decision is made to rely on one's own strength, then, when making calculations, the following factors must be taken into account:

The reliability of the bearing walls and the foundation of the building over which the roof will be erected.
Type of truss system (layered or hinged).
The size of the section of rafters and bars for other elements of the system.
The angle of inclination of the slopes and the distance of the run between the rafters.
Dimensions of elements such as protrusions and openings for chimney pipes, ventilation, windows.

To calculate the exact proportions of the structure, you can use formulas specially developed for this, which will make the roof reliable and durable. Designation of parameters in formulas:

S is the total area of the roof slopes;

h is the height of the system from floor to ceiling;

d is the length of the side or diagonal rafter legs;

e - the length of the intermediate rafters;

a is the distance between the rafters along the length of the building;

α is the angle of inclination of the slope;

b - the distance between the rafters from the end hip side.

The formulas for calculating the device of a simple hip roof are as follows:

Skate height:

Length of intermediate front rafters:

The length of the end, hip rafters:

Roof slope area:

Having calculated the main parameters of the system, it is possible, based on them, to purchase materials for construction.

Roof materials

To install the truss system, you will need not only well-dried high-quality wood, but also metal fasteners, as well as roofing nails, self-tapping screws and anchor bolts.

From metal elements, you will need to purchase corners and fasteners of various configurations that will help make the structure more reliable and strong.

One of them is the sliding mount. It is installed at the bottom of the rafters, thus securing them to the Mauerlat. By installing it, you can eliminate the risk of deformation of the roof system when the load-bearing walls shrink.

Another long-used fastener is staples. They connect different parts of the system, for example, rafters and floor beams or Mauerlat, if the roof is being erected, for example, on a building that has already shrunk for a long time.

For the manufacture of wooden elements you will need:

Particular attention is paid to the quality of wood for the installation of the system

- for laying the Mauerlat, you will need a bar with a section of 100 × 150 mm;

- the rafters and the ridge are made of timber with a section of 50 × 150 mm. Builders involved in the construction of roof systems recommend installing the entire system from timber or boards with the same cross section - this guarantees the strength and reliability of the building;

- a crate of boards is stuffed on top of the rafter system, the cross section of which should be 25 × 150 mm.

When choosing wood for a rafter system, you can rely on a table compiled specifically for this. It shows the permissible length of rafters (in meters) from coniferous wood (larch, spruce, cedar, pine), depending on its quality, beam cross-section and the average snow load in the region.

Variety	cross section	Distance between rafters in mm
	mm	300	400	600	300	400	600
1.0 kPa			1.5 kPa
Higher	38×89	3.22	2.92	2.55	2.81	2.55	2.23
	38×140	5.06	4.60	4.02	4.42	4.02	3.54
	38×184	6.65	6.05	5.28	5.81	5.28	4.61
	38×235	8.50	7.72	6.74	7.42	6.74	5.89
	38×286	10.34	9.40	8.21	9.03	8.21	7.17
1 and 2	38×89	3.11	2.83	2.47	2.72	2.47	2.16
	38×140	4.90	4.45	3.89	4.28	3.89	3.40
	38×184	6.44	5.85	5.11	5.62	5.11	4.41
	38×235	8.22	7.47	6.38	7.18	6.52	5.39
	38×286	10.00	9.06	7.40	8.74	7.66	6.25
3	38×89	3.06	2.78	2.31	2.67	2.39	1.95
	38×140	4.67	4.04	3.30	3.95	3.42	2.79
	38×184	5.68	4.92	4.02	4.80	4.16	3.40
	38×235	6.95	6.02	4.91	5.87	5.08	4.15
	38×286	8.06	6.98	6.70	6.81	5.90	4.82
2.0 kPa			2.5 kPa
Higher	38×89	4.02	3.65	3.19	3.73	3.39	2.96
	38×140	5.28	4.80	4.19	4.90	4.45	3.89
	38×184	6.74	6.13	5.35	6.26	5.69	4.97
	38×235	8.21	7.46	6.52	7.62	6.92	5.90
	38×286	2.47	2.24	1.96	2.29	2.08	1.82
1 and 2	38×89	3.89	3.53	3.08	3.61	3.28	2.86
	38×140	5.11	4.64	3.89	4.74	4.31	3.52
	38×184	6.52	5.82	4.75	6.06	5.27	4.30
	38×235	7.80	6.76	5.52	7.06	6.11	4.99
	38×286	2.43	2.11	1.72	2.21	1.91	1.56
3	38×89	3.48	3.01	2.46	3.15	2.73	2.23
	38×140	4.23	3.67	2.99	3.83	3.32	2.71
	38×184	5.18	4.48	3.66	4.68	4.06	3.31
	38×235	6.01	5.20	4.25	5.43	4.71	3.84
	38×286	6.52	5.82	4.75	6.06	5.27	4.30

In addition, it will be necessary to buy roofing material, insulation and a vapor barrier film, which is laid on the rafters under the crate. A soft coating is traditionally chosen as a roofing material for a hip roof structure - it is easier to fix it on a complex configuration of such a truss system. Under such a roof it will be necessary to make plywood flooring.
You also need to purchase for wood processing before installation.
You may need steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm to secure some elements in the load-bearing wall.

Prices for various types of timber

Tools for the job

In advance, you need to prepare not only all the necessary materials, but also tools, since without them the work will not be possible. To install the truss system you will need:

Hammer, preferably with a nail puller.
Electric screwdriver.
A mallet is a rubber or wooden mallet. It is necessary for some operations for leveling and fitting wooden elements.
Wooden rail 1.5-1.7 m long to bring individual nodes to the same level.
Marker or pencil for marking.
Jigsaw, hacksaw and power saw.
Building level, plumb.
Roulette and ruler.
Chisel for gouging grooves.
Planer - it is better to have both a conventional and an electric version, since it is more convenient to work with a conventional tool at a height, and large planes can be processed below with an electric one.

Carrying out installation work

The figure shows a simplified diagram of a hip roof, which can be used as a reference when installing the system.

The work is carried out in stages and without any haste, with careful consideration of each step, since the design of the hip roof is quite complex.

The first step is to prepare the wood for preparation by treating it with an antiseptic solution and drying it well. When the material is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the system.

Installation of the system begins with the installation and fixing of the Mauerlat along the perimeter of the bearing walls. It must be laid on a layer of waterproofing material.

After installing the Mauerlat, markings are made on it, according to previously performed calculations. To make the marking as accurate and noticeable as possible, bright markers are used or beacons are driven in in certain places.

It is very important that the distances marked on one wall are identical to the markings on the opposite wall, otherwise the floor beams and other elements will be laid unevenly.

The key to success is the right markup

Next, the floor beams are laid. They can be mounted on walls next to the Mauerlat or on a fixed beam below the wall surface.

Then the Mauerlat is fastened with puffs, which helps to relieve the load from the load-bearing walls.

After the floor beams are laid, experienced craftsmen advise covering them with plank flooring without fixing them to the beams. Such flooring is needed for comfortable and safe work.

The next step is to install the racks. They are fixed on puffs or floor beams.
Racks are fastened from above with a ridge beam, and rafter central legs are attached to it from the end hip sides of the roof.
Further, intermediate rafters are marked and screwed from the frontal slopes of the roof.

Then follow the diagonal rafters that connect the ridge and the corners of the building. If necessary, additional racks are installed under them.

On diagonal rafters, sprigs or short rafters are fixed. They are installed at the same distance between them as the intermediate ones.
Depending on the design, other supporting or reinforcing elements can be built into it, for example, struts or trusses, as well as a wind beam.
If the rafters are installed and end on the Mauerlat, then they are extended with additional elements - “fillies”, they will create a canopy over the wall.

Roofing material flooring

The structure of the roofing "pie" of the hip roof

Before proceeding to the next step in the installation of the elements necessary for the roof, it is necessary to mark the location of the window openings, the holes through which the chimney and ventilation pipes will be led out, the entrance to the attic room or the exit to the balcony. They are framed with additional slats, stuffing them around the perimeter of the planned openings.
Then, a roofing “pie” is installed on the rafter system. The work is done in the following sequence:
A vapor barrier film is stretched and fixed on top of the rafters
Further, on top of it, battens are screwed onto the rafters.
Insulation is placed between the slats, which is covered with windproof materials (for example, dense plastic wrap).
Then, the fastening of the counter-lattice follows.
The next step will depend on which coating material is chosen. If, for example, a metal tile is used, then it can be screwed directly to the rails of the counter-lattice. When choosing a soft roof, it is imperative to lay plywood or OSB sheets under it.

Complex components of the hip roof system

I would like to draw attention on complex nodes of the truss system, the installation of which always raises many questions.

can be carried out by several types of rigid fasteners:

- using metal corners installed on both sides of the rafter leg;

- nails driven at an angle through the rafter into the Mauerlat;

- special brackets;

- sliding fasteners.

The connection of the rafter legs on the ridge beam can also be done in different ways:

- by laying them on top of each other above the timber and fixing them together with bolts;

- device on the rafters of special recesses for rigidity when installing them on a ridge;

- adjusting the rafters at the selected angle on the ridge and fastening them with wooden or metal plates on both sides.

Another very difficult knot is the connection of the ridge beam with the rafters. These elements must have reliable mating and fastening, since the durability of the hip side of the roof depends on this.

- The ridge beam is laid on racks and fastened on both sides with overlays from boards.

- The diagonal ones are cut at the right angle and fixed to the ridge beam and the intermediate rafter. In the same way the second rafter is also mounted, going to another corner of the house.

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for rafters

Video: hip roof construction secrets

If there is no experience in erecting such a complex architectural element of a building as a roof, then it is recommended to use the help of qualified specialists. Moreover, this moment applies not only to the hip roof structure, but also to all the others, since any type of this structure has its own characteristics with complex connecting nodes.

It must be remembered that the long-term service life of the entire structure will depend on the reliability of the coating of the house, therefore, its construction must be taken with the utmost responsibility.

Supporters of the European style in the construction of suburban real estate in most cases opt for a hip roof, the advantage of which is not only external attractiveness, but also the reliability of the structure. Choosing even the simplest option for execution, you can use a lot of interesting elements that can give the building a special sophistication and uniqueness.

What is a hip roof

The most uncomplicated hip roof is made in the form of a frame with four slopes: two triangular end, called hips, and two frontal trapezoidal planes. All slopes are laid from the ridge element to the eaves, while the front surface has a larger area and length of the slope.

In addition to the standard version, there are half-hipped roofs, which are usually used to create a design in the Dutch style. This option provides for the installation of frontal slope eaves significantly lower than the end ones. It is advisable to build such a roof when arranging an attic space as a living space.

All four hip roof slopes converge on a ridge beam, which is smaller than on gable roofs

The installation of a hip roof is carried out on the basis of the assembly of nodes and elements that are also present in the structures of more complex roofs.

The main frame of the structure is assembled from the following elements:

For the manufacture of side rafters and intermediate systems, boards with a section of 50 × 150 mm are harvested. When constructing a structure, it should be remembered that the extreme rafters should have a smaller angle at the top than the intermediate ones.
The installation of short rafter legs is carried out to the corner rafter, and not to the ridge, while their angle of inclination should be the same as that of the intermediate parts.
For ridge elements, material of the same section is selected as for rafters.

In the frame of the hip roof, it is customary to distinguish between central and intermediate rafters. The central elements are called, the docking of which is carried out at the corners of the ridge beam from three sides. Intermediate rafters are located between the central ones and connect the ridge with the Mauerlat, forming a cornice.

The central rafters converge on the ridge element from three sides

Additional, but no less important in the construction of a hip roof are the following factors:

To support the ridge, a stand is usually placed at the junctions of two rafters and a ridge beam. If living quarters are arranged under the roof, then the racks can be replaced with supports, and in some cases removed altogether.
To strengthen the structure of the rafters, a puff is used, which, as a rule, is also a floor beam.
Puffs strengthen the truss truss and at the same time are floor beams
The upper part of the walls and the gap of the under-roof space are reliably protected from precipitation due to the increased overhang due to the installation of "filly" rafters to the legs.
On the windy side of the building, a wind beam is attached to the rafters; if necessary, its installation is allowed on both slopes of a trapezoidal shape.
The hip roof is the only structure that is equipped with a rafter or a short rafter leg installed to the corner rafter.
Mauerlat, being a necessary part of any truss system, is constructed in the form of a bar in a hip roof and is attached around the perimeter of the entire building.
Mauerlat is fixed on the upper end of the load-bearing walls around the entire perimeter of the building and serves to connect the frame of the house with the roofing system
In order to relieve the load exerted on the walls and give the system greater rigidity, a diagonal jumper, a sprendel, is strengthened between two adjacent Mauerlat elements.
The angle of inclination of the struts is selected depending on whether the attic space will be equipped for living space.
Diagonal rafters, together with the rib, can be mounted both from one end of the roof, and from two of its sides, while the choice depends on the structure being built.
Run - the gap between the points of attachment of the rafters to the ridge, the size of which is determined by the type of material and what load the snow masses exert on the house in the construction region.

Photo gallery: houses with hip roofs

All arches of the hip roof of a square house converge at one point. Part of the attic structure can be brought out on the slope of the hip roof. The house can have extensions covered with a similar roof. The roofs of several equal parts of the house can be combined into a single structure. The slopes of the hip roof can be made of glass. The hip roof looks great on buildings in the medieval style

Self-construction of a hip roof: detailed instructions

Do-it-yourself roof installation requires strict adherence to the construction stages, as well as the skills of similar work and a set of special tools.

List of tools and materials for the construction of a hip roof

Installation of a roof frame is impossible not only without high-quality lumber or roofing, but also without appropriate fasteners.

Metal fasteners include:

nails and self-tapping screws for roofing;
anchor bolts;
steel corners;
other details responsible for the reliability and strength of the structure under construction.

An important point in the arrangement of the roof frame is the installation of a sliding fastening of truss trusses both on the ridge and at the junctions with the Mauerlat. This method of fixing the elements of the rafters eliminates the possibility of damage to the roofing system due to shrinkage of the load-bearing walls and during seasonal deformations of the building. .

Sliding fastening allows the elements of the rafters to move within tolerances with small deformations of the building frame

The structure of the rafters is assembled from the following materials:

Mauerlat is made of timber with a section of 100 × 150 mm.
For the ridge and rafters, a beam with a section of 50 × 150 mm is selected. Specialists involved in the installation of rafters recommend using timber or boards with the same section in their work, only then the maximum strength and quality of the structure will be achieved.
The rafter system, as soon as it is ready, is equipped with a wooden crate with a section of boards of 25 × 150 mm.

When choosing a roofing material, several options are offered, among which soft roofing is considered the best. It is easiest to attach it to complex truss systems like a hip . Before installing the coating, a layer of insulation and a vapor barrier film should be laid; if necessary, plywood can be additionally attached.

Before proceeding with the installation of the roofing cake, all wooden parts of the rafters should be treated with an antiseptic.

Installation of the structure will be carried out much faster if the necessary tools are at hand:

Video: how to make washed down rafters in a hip roof

What you need to know when designing and budgeting for construction

The design of the roof can be any, depending on the needs and capabilities of the owner of the house. The complexity of the work will depend on the location of the load-bearing walls. As the complexity of the project for its implementation increases the consumption of materials, labor costs, and the timing of the order.

The complexity of erecting a hip roof primarily depends on the size and configuration of the building.

The construction of a complex hip roof is best left to professionals who will perform accurate calculations of all elements of the truss system and will be able to make the roof in strict accordance with the project. Those who like to try their hand at self-construction need to consider several factors:

The ability of the structure and foundation to withstand the load of the future roof.
Features of the truss system - layered and mounted structures have their own subtleties of implementation.
Permissible cross-sectional size of wooden structural elements for given values of length and distance between roof trusses.
Correspondence of the angles of inclination of the slopes and the rafter run when bringing them together on the ridge.
The need to organize additional holes and protrusions, for example, for chimneys, ventilation, window and other openings.

When designing a truss system for a hip roof, many different factors must be taken into account.

Step-by-step instructions for installing the truss system

First, the wood is prepared - it is well dried, treated with antiseptic compounds and dried again. As soon as the material is ready, you can proceed with its installation according to the scheme below:

Along the perimeter of the supporting base, a Mauerlat with a mandatory waterproofing layer of roofing material or similar materials is laid and securely fastened.
The roof mauerlat is laid on a waterproofing material and fastened with studs
Mauerlat is marked according to the previously calculated dimensions. To make the marks clearly visible, it is recommended to apply them with a bright marker or even drive in small beacons. It is important to observe the identity of the markings on opposite planes, otherwise the laying of the beams will be uneven.
The marking must be done very carefully so that the truss trusses and puffs are installed evenly.
Installation of floor beams is carried out on a Mauerlat or on an additional beam, reinforced just below the plane of the walls.
Floor beams (puffs) can be mounted on the Mauerlat
To reduce the load from the supporting frame, the Mauerlat is fastened with transverse puffs.
Transverse puffs redistribute the load from the roof evenly around the entire perimeter of the truss system
After completing the laying of puffs on top of the floor beams, it is recommended to build a plank flooring for fastening to the beams. It will be convenient and safe to walk on it when performing further work.
Temporary flooring is used for safe movement over the entire floor area during the installation of rafters
Next, racks are installed for puffs or for floor beams.
At the top, the racks are attached to the ridge beam. The central rafters from the end of the roof are also mounted on it.
Then the marking and installation of intermediate rafters from the side of the gables is carried out.
Intermediate rafters are installed from the front side
After that, the diagonal rafters are laid, connecting the ridge element of the building with the corners. If necessary, it is possible to install additional racks.
Diagonal rafters connect the ridge roof element to the corners
To the diagonal rafters are fixed short rafters, called rafters. The distance between them should be the same as between the intermediate elements.
Jugglers connect diagonal rafters with Mauerlat
Other details of support and reinforcement may also appear in the design diagram: struts, wind beams, truss system.
If the rafters end on the surface of the mauerlat, they must be extended beyond the frame of the building with the help of “fillies”, due to which cornices and roof overhangs are created.

Rafter legs can be attached to the Mauerlat with various rigid elements, for example:

Rafter legs to the bar of the ridge element are also attached in several ways:

The connection of the legs above each other and above the beam, followed by fastening to the bolts.
Creation of recesses on the rafters to strengthen the rigidity of the connection with the ridge element.
Bringing the rafters to the ridge with their subsequent fastening with the help of wooden or metal plates.

At the point where the ridge beam is attached to the rafter legs, a rather complex knot is also obtained, and only with reliable pairing and fixation of all parts can we talk about the durability of the hip roof. In this case, the ridge beam is laid on top of the racks, after which it is fastened with wooden plates on both sides. Then the diagonal rafter elements are sawn out, which are attached to the ridge and the intermediate rafter. Similarly, the second rafter is installed for another corner of the house.

Video: do-it-yourself installation of a hip roof truss system

Roof preparation for roofing

When the rafter system is fully installed, you can begin to prepare the structure for laying roofing material:

Marking is carried out in the places of the planned window and door openings, chimney outlets, ventilation openings, followed by framing the selected openings with wooden slats.
Next, the roofing pie is mounted in the following sequence:
1. A layer of vapor barrier film is stretched and attached to the rafters.
2. The next layer is the crate.
3. In the intervals between the slats, a heater with a wind protection similar to a polyethylene film is attached.
4. Next, a counter-lattice is installed.

The last stage before the installation of the coating is directly determined by the selected roofing material. So, if the choice fell on a metal tile, then it can be attached directly to the counter-lattice. If a soft roof is used, then an additional layer of plywood or OSB sheets will be needed.

Arrangement of the roof ventilation system

For air intake from the under-roof space, a ventilation hole is made at the bottom of the wind filing, and for its output - in the upper part of the roof - closer to the ridge element. When creating a filing from wooden boards, you can leave a small gap between them, which will create better ventilation.

With a dense assembly of the filing, it is recommended to make several small wooden gratings and spread them out over the entire length of the wind filing in 80 cm increments. To drill the desired hole, you will have to arm yourself with a drill with a cup nozzle. The place for the upper air outlet is equipped in the roof itself.

When using flexible tiles, ventilation is carried out by a ventilated ridge, ceramic tiles allow air to be supplied through a roof valve. Ventilation of slate, ondulin and other similar coatings is carried out through standard skates. The metal tile is ventilated with a ridge seal.

Video: metal hip roof

Gazebo with hipped roof

A gazebo with a hip roof will become the standard of a design solution, and subject to competent calculation and arrangement, it will be distinguished by reliability and durability of operation. It will not be difficult to assemble a hipped roof with your own hands. This design is suitable for a gazebo in the form of a rectangle or square. The first option is an assembly of a hip structure with two triangular and the same number of trapezoidal slopes. The second option is a hip hip roof, consisting of 4 isosceles triangular slopes.

The hip roof for a square gazebo consists of four identical triangular sections

A four-pitched roof is an excellent choice when building a gazebo, since it allows the use of any roofing, and its convenient design provides a free viewing angle, it can be easily equipped, for example, in the Chinese style, adding length to the overhangs and a few curved diagonal rafters.

At the preparatory stage of work, a drawing of the future roof is made, taking into account the main factors:

the weight of all rafters and their additional elements;
masses of roofing and waterproofing;
the level of climatic loads, the layer of snow masses;
the weight of the builders serving the roof;
loads from equipment that is planned to be installed on the truss system.

On what will be the slope of the slopes and what materials are chosen to cover the roof, the features of the installation directly depend, for example, the spacing of the lathing laths and the truss system. And all this affects the overall weight of the building.

You can extend the life of a wooden gazebo by pre-treating all its elements with special antiseptic impregnations, as well as a fire retardant. All these compounds are applied quite simply with an ordinary brush or roller.

The support for the hipped roof of the gazebo can be wooden, brick walls or support frame racks. If a brick is used in the work, then the construction will turn out to be capital and will require the construction of a solid foundation that can withstand heavy loads. The construction of a hip roof on such a gazebo is generally similar to installing a roof on a residential building or other large-sized structure.

Small hip roofs can be assembled on pillar supports, which must first be well fixed.

If the gazebo is installed on wooden poles, then you should first check the strength of the fastening of its supports, they must stand strictly vertically, and for the rigidity and stability of the frame, they are tied up with jumpers from below. Jumpers are also mounted on top, which will be a strapping for a pitched structure. Due to the high load, the supports may gradually disperse, so it is recommended to fasten them at the upper ends with diagonal jumpers in advance, and lay wooden or steel plates at the docking points.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a hip roof for a gazebo

First, a ridge beam is attached with special struts and vertical supports.
The construction of the roof begins with the installation of a ridge beam on vertical racks.
Further, diagonal rafters are laid to form roof slopes. This stage involves the possibility of increasing the length of the overhangs with the help of overhead boards - "fillies", which lengthen the rafters.
Then perform the installation of the central and intermediate rafters and sprockets.
Diagonal and intermediate rafters connect the ridge beam with the mauerlat and form a frame for installing the batten
To protect wooden elements from moisture, a waterproofing membrane is laid on top of the rafters.
A crate is mounted on the waterproofing layer, and if necessary, additional ventilation equipment is also installed with a counter-crate.
Installation of roofing completes the process of building a gazebo

A hipped roof is assembled in the same way as a regular hip roof, excluding the installation of a ridge beam. In this case, a bunch of diagonal rafters is made into a ridge knot.

Video: building a gazebo and a barbecue with your own hands

The lack of experience in the construction of roof structures can adversely affect the quality of the future roof and the degree of protection of the entire structure, therefore, to perform this kind of work, it is recommended to contact professional construction teams. With the right approach, the hip roof will become an excellent architectural design for a house, gazebo and any other buildings.