Repair Design Furniture

How to make your own summer shower in the country. Country crafts from plastic pipes. Cabin made of corrugated board

August 1, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Plastic pipes are an excellent material from which you can collect not only pipelines, but also all kinds of crafts. Moreover, working with them is quite easy and simple, not to mention the fact that this procedure is very exciting. As an example, in this article I will give 10 of the most interesting ideas for using plastic pipes.

Features of making crafts from plastic pipes

Plastic pipes and fittings (corners and tees) in the hands of the master turn into a real designer, from which you can assemble any frame structures. The only thing you need to pay some attention to is the choice of pipes. For example, metal-plastic is not suitable for these purposes, since its bending strength is very low.

Therefore, it is best to use the following types of pipes:

Before gluing the PVC pipe to the fitting, it must be chamfered to get rid of burrs, which, in the process of joining the parts, can scrape off the glue.

Homemade options

Option 1: Laptop stand

Let's start with the simplest, but nevertheless very useful product - a laptop stand. In the photo below we see how to make a PVC pipe stand.

So, the instructions for its manufacture are quite simple:

  1. first of all, measure your laptop so that the stand fits perfectly;
  2. then cut the tubes according to the dimensions obtained:
    • 2 tubes should be about 5 cm longer than the depth of the laptop;
    • 1 tube should be 2-3 cm shorter than the width of the laptop;
    • 2 short tubes - the height of the stand rise depends on their length;
  1. now glue the corners to the two long tubes and connect them to the short tubes, resulting in 2 L-shaped parts;
  2. after that, glue the corners to the short tubes and connect the parts with the longest tube, which should be perpendicular;
  3. then glue the corners to the two ends of the L-shaped parts, which will serve as limiters so that the laptop does not move out of the stand;
  4. at the end of the work, the product can be painted in any color you like with spray paint.

Now it will be more convenient for you to work with a laptop, besides, you can put it on a bed or sofa, and it will not overheat.

Option 2: sled for children

Sledges made of plastic pipes are a more complex design, however, they are made in almost the same way as a laptop stand. So every craftsman can cope with the task.

To make a sleigh, you will need the following materials:

  • two pipes with a diameter of 40 mm;
  • tips for pipes 40 mm;
  • pipes with a diameter of 25 mm;
  • tees and angles at 90 and 45 degrees for pipes with a diameter of 25 mm.

Sledges are made as follows:

  1. start by preparing the drawing. At the heart of the design, use any sled in the photo above. The main task of the drawing is to indicate the dimensions of all parts, which will simplify and speed up further work.;
  2. then make skids from magpie pipes. To do this, mark the places of their bending with a pencil and heat it over an open fire, rotating the pipe along the axis. When the plastic softens, the ends should be bent so that the skids slide easily over the snow and do not burrow.
    It is desirable to bend the skids not only in front, but also in the back. After that, plugs must be put on the finished runners;
  3. now you need to assemble the upper part of the sled, i.e. frame to which the seat will be attached. The frame must have racks for connection to the skids.
    This design is a rectangle with stiffeners in the form of jumpers. For mounting jumpers and racks, use tees;
  4. if a small child is sledding, also be sure to make a back. To do this, use short tube cuts and 45-degree corners;
  5. when the frame is ready, you need to connect it to the skids. To do this, install it on the skids and markup, marking the holes into which the racks will be inserted;
  6. now drill holes of the required diameter so that the racks can enter them;
  7. after that, connect the runners with the uprights, inserting them into the holes until they stop. To fix the racks in the skids, use self-tapping screws;

  1. at the end of the work you need to make a seat. To do this, you can use wooden slats that are screwed to the frame with screws or planks.

This completes the manufacturing process of the sled.

Option 3: shelving

Another simple and quite useful design in the household is a rack. It can come in handy in the garage, for storing all kinds of little things, in the country or even in the apartment, in order to conveniently arrange conservation in the pantry.

The process of making a rack is extremely simple:

  1. start work by completing the drawing, indicating the dimensions of all parts;
  2. then, according to the drawing, assemble the racks and tie them with jumpers using tees;
  3. now install the rack and lay the boards on the lintels, which will serve as shelves;
  4. if the rack turned out to be high, you need to provide brackets for attaching the structure to the wall.

Option 4: snowshoes

We figured out how sleds for children are made, now let's look at how to make snowshoes with your own hands from plastic pipes for adults. For this you will need the following materials:

  • 2 pipes with a diameter of 20-30 mm, one and a half meters long;
  • a nylon cord 4-5 mm thick - 40-50 meters;
  • elastic band for fixing the foot.

The process of making snowshoes is as follows:

  1. cut a piece 200 mm long from each tube;
  2. mark on long blanks in the middle and heat them in this place over an open fire, for example, over a gas burner;

  1. when the plastic softens, bend the pipes around a cylindrical object, for example, you can use a kettle for this purpose. Wherein in the process of bending, do not apply a lot of force, it is better to heat the workpiece again so that it does not crack;
  2. reheat the resulting sock and give it an angle of approximately 120-130 degrees. Do the same with the ends of the pipes;

  1. now both ends of the pipe should be connected. To connect pipes, you can use self-tapping screws;
  2. after that, treat the frame of the snowshoes with sandpaper so that the surface is rough;

  1. now you need to weave a mesh of nylon cord on the frame. You can connect nodes according to the diagram above.

In the process of making the grid, you need to tie a jumper to the snowshoes. When the product is ready, tie elastic bands to secure the snowshoes to the leg.

The size of snowshoes depends on the size of your foot. With a foot size 42, a snowshoe with a length of about 60 cm and a width of about 25 cm is sufficient.

Option 5: catamaran

Fans of outdoor activities can be recommended to make a homemade catamaran from plastic pipes. This design is based on external sewer pipes of large diameter. Their length should be about two meters.

The manufacturing process of this product is as follows:

  1. place three pipes at the same distance from each other and connect them with smaller diameter pipes using clamps or other fasteners. The distance between the two extreme sewer pipes should be about one and a half meters;
  2. then glue plugs on both sides of the pipes. To reduce the resistance of the floats, “bend” them from the front using 45-degree corners;
  3. on the base of the tubes connecting the floats, lay a wooden shield that will serve as a deck;
  4. a seat should be fixed on the shield, which can be made from boards.

On this catamaran is ready. This swimming facility is perfect for fishermen, as well as just lovers of walking on the water.

To control the catamaran, use the oars from the kayak. Of course, if you wish, you can design and implement a more complex design with pedal-driven blades.

Option 6: tent

The tent is made according to the same principle as all other structures - it is based on pipes and fittings. The only thing is that the parts do not need to be glued or soldered to make the products collapsible. Another feature is that you will have to sew an awning, for example, from a tarpaulin or other suitable canvas.

The construction process looks like this:

  1. to make it easier to work, draw a drawing indicating the dimensions of all parts and the location of the fittings. The design of the tent is quite simple - the base is a rectangle, to which four posts are attached at the corners.
    From above, roofs are attached to the racks. If the roof is gable, then you will need fittings at 45 degrees to assemble it;

  1. then cut the tubes into parts of the desired length;
  2. now assemble the frame from the received parts and fittings according to the drawing;
  3. Next, you need to make an awning. To do this, cut the material into canvases for each side of the tent, as well as the roof, and then sew them;
  4. now put the resulting awning on the tent to make sure the job is done correctly.

For the tent, use quality fittings so that they hold the pipes firmly and do not crack.

Option 7: making a velomobile

Fans of designing and inventing can be recommended to make a velomobile. Truth, keep in mind that for its manufacture you will need stronger pipes than for the products described above.

An excellent solution is PVC pipes with metal reinforcement with a diameter of 1/4 inch. However, it is almost impossible to find such material in the domestic market. It can be replaced with 40 mm PVC-U pipes intended for swimming pools, although their disadvantage is the high price of the fittings.

In addition, conventional polypropylene reinforced pipes can be used, inside of which metal tubes of a suitable diameter are inserted. Another option to increase the strength of pipes is to fill them with mounting foam.

The process of manufacturing a velomobile frame is not difficult. The design is assembled according to the same principle as all other products - the tubes are connected using fittings and thus the frame is assembled.

The most difficult thing when performing this task is to securely fasten the metal parts - the wheel axles, and the drive. To do this, use metal plates that can be fixed to the frame with bolts. To screw the bolt into the pipe, use the bushings that are glued.

As for the mechanical part, all parts are used from the bike. The only thing is that you can use the electric motor, as shown in the photo above. In this case, an electric drive is installed on one rear wheel, and a mechanical drive on the second.

To implement a mechanical drive, an axle with bends in the form of pedals should be placed in front, as in the photo below. This axle, in turn, transmits torque to the "sprocket", and then everything is like a conventional bicycle.

Here, in fact, are all the main nuances of making a velomobile. For other design tasks, you will surely find solutions yourself.

Option 8: zherlitsa

If you love fishing and experimenting with different gear, then you will probably be interested in this idea of ​​​​using a plastic pipe, which consists in making a summer vent. To do this, you will need a piece of sewer pipe with a diameter of 32 mm and a length of 10 cm, as well as a fishing line, a hook and a sinker.

A vent is made from a plastic pipe as follows:

  1. remove the edges from both ends of the workpiece;
  2. then drill a hole with a diameter of about 5 mm, retreating from the edge of about 1.5 cm. This hole will be used as a fishing line stopper;
  3. now drill a through hole on the opposite side of the workpiece, i.e. the tube should have two holes opposite each other;
  4. now you need to equip the workpiece. To do this, tie a suspension from a fishing line to two opposite holes (for hanging a vent). The suspension should end with a noose;
  5. now tie the fishing line to one hole and wind it around the tube. 10 meters will be enough;
  6. at the end of the fishing line you need to put on a sliding sinker, and also tie a tee hook;
  7. to fix the fishing line in the working position, put a tight rubber ring on the workpiece.

Now the tackle is ready, it remains to prepare the bait and go to the nearest suitable reservoir to check it in operation.

Option 9: folding chair

If you liked the previous option of using a plastic pipe, then the folding one will also come in handy. Moreover, it is made extremely simply and quickly:

  1. assemble a rectangle with dimensions of approximately 40X30 cm from tubes and corners; if desired, you can make the chair even more compact;
  2. now assemble the second same rectangle. Its height should be the same, and its width a few centimeters less so that it can fit snugly into the first rectangle;
  3. now, in the center of the long sides of each rectangle, drill holes opposite each other;
  4. then connect both parts with bolts;
  5. at the end of the work, sew a rag seat, as in the photo above.

As a result, you have a light and compact chair that can even be put in a backpack.

Option 10: a waterfall for children

As you know, children are very fond of splashing in the water on hot summer days. Therefore, if you have a dacha, do not deny them such a pleasure and make a waterfall.

The design of this device is extremely simple. It is a U-shaped frame. In the crossbar of this frame from below, you need to drill small holes through which jets of water will fall down.

To keep the crossbar stable on the ground, attach the legs from below, perpendicular to the frame, as shown in the photo above. Attach a hose fitting or threaded fitting to one of the legs. Install plugs on the other ends of the legs.

Now the waterfall is ready, it remains only to connect water to it. For these purposes, you can use a tank from a summer shower or install a special container where the water will be heated under the rays of the sun.

Conclusion

From plastic pipes, as we found out, you can make a lot of interesting and useful crafts. We considered as an example only 10 options for their use. However, if you stretch your imagination a little, you will surely discover a lot of other equally interesting ideas.

From the video in this article, you can get more information on how to make sleds from plastic pipes. If some points are not entirely clear to you, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

August 1, 2016

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With my own hands. Consider the simplest and most affordable ways to build such a necessary building.

We often spend our summers at the dacha in order to be closer to nature for some time, away from noisy freeways and the speed of the metropolis. But the rest will not be entirely pleasant if we do not have the opportunity to take an invigorating shower that allows us to wash off dirt and dust, and also makes us fresh and clean on a hot summer day.

Building a summer shower yourself is not so difficult, despite the fact that there are a lot of options for its implementation, some of which are quite simple and do not require serious investments, both time and money. So let's get started.

Finished building for a summer residence

If you are a too busy person, or too lazy to build a soul and you have money, then you can simply buy a finished product. Or order a frame from a craftsman, and install the tank yourself. And that's it, you can use this wonderful device!

If warm water is enough for you, you can not use electric heaters for this. In hot weather, it is enough to install a container of the required volume from the available material above the booth, paint it with black paint so that there is better heating by the sun's rays.

The tank will heat up more quickly if placed in a transparent glass or plastic box. Such a structure will allow you to provide yourself with warm water even in cool weather, the main thing is that the sun is not hidden behind clouds.

This option will be the most simple and convenient for lazy people and money comrades.

open design

An outdoor summer shower built with your own hands is suitable for quickly washing off the collected dirt. This design is very simple and easy to mount from improvised materials.

This open device will help to harden the body and increase immunity.

It is best to make such a summer shower with your own hands near some wall by installing a supply pipe with a tap on it and. To protect from prying eyes, you can attach a curtain. To do this, you need a pipe bent by an arc with loops for the curtain.

This is possible if your summer cottage has running water. If there is no water supply, you can attach a suitable container to the wall and you can take water procedures.

It is also necessary to protect the wall of the building and the floor covering from the destructive process of water. You can make wall cladding, water-repellent, and put artificial stone or other material on the floor. Only the material should not be slippery, otherwise there is a risk of injury.

If the built outdoor shower is located next to the developed site, then fixtures are not needed - the water used will evaporate and soak into the ground.

How to build a shower in the country with your own hands?

To get started, select a suitable and empty place in the country to install a new building. If you rarely use the shower, then the wastewater can be drained directly into the ground.

But in the case of frequent washing, you need to think about draining a large amount of water to a certain place. If there is a septic tank, then wastewater can be sent there, of course, if the volume of the tank allows.

After excavation, you can make the frame of a summer shower with your own hands, which must be solid (strong), because it needs to withstand the weight of the tank. The frame can be made from:

  • boards (bars), reinforced with metal corners;
  • steel corners or pipes.

A metal frame will last longer, but will require annual painting to eliminate the possibility of corrosion, while a wooden frame is much easier to complete.

Do-it-yourself summer shower - drawings for construction:

Any handy means can serve as material for the walls:

  • wooden lining;
  • plastic panels;
  • flat slate and much more.

See a photo of a summer shower with your own hands:

Inside, the booth will become more beautiful and stronger if it is sheathed with a plastic clapboard, the floor of the boards is made in the form of a lattice, having treated the wooden material from splinters.

Think about soil erosion under the shower over time. You can install a plastic or iron drip tray for the floor.

Or the easiest option is to pour a layer of rubble under the floor.

Watch an interesting video on how to make a budget summer shower in the country:

P.S. As you can see, it is possible to build a shower for a summer house on your own and you do not need to buy expensive materials, you can use what is available.

In summer, along with beautiful sunny weather and bright colors from plants, we get the need to take a shower more often than usual. In addition, swimming in the fresh air under the streams of fresh water is a real pleasure, especially if you live in an apartment and went out into the countryside. On cold days, when the water is not heated enough from the sun, you can make a heated shower.

As always, the most ingenious is simple. In our case, making a summer shower with your own hands is very simple; nevertheless, there are many options for implementing the idea.

Summer shower options for giving

Let's start with materials. It is realistic to assemble the frame from any beams, whether it is a metal-profile pipe, or wooden beams. The walls can be from a wide range of materials, here are examples: sewn up with wood, profiled metal sheets. The best quality and price converge if the summer shower is made of polycarbonate, but you can even use opaque oilcloth or tarpaulin stretched over the frame.

OPTION #1

More expensive, but also more reliable, will be a brick or building block shower. The structure can be made combined and a toilet can be built nearby, as can be seen in the photo. Masonry can be lined with any material available for this.

OPTION #2

To assemble a shower from a profile pipe, welding is most often used, but if you do not have the opportunity to use it, then you can fasten the beams through holes and bolts. In order for the corners to become rigid, a “scarf” plate or a diagonal strip of metal is attached to them. Such frames look good covered with tarpaulin or oilcloth, as can be seen in the photo.

Also, corrugated board can be easily attached to the tighter metal base, which will add reliability to the structure in many moments.

OPTION #3

In building hypermarkets, you can find a ready-made shower for outdoor conditions. But there is an opportunity to save money and make a summer shower with your own hands. The general concept has already been described above - the frame is made of corrugated pipe, and the casing is made of polycarbonate. See photos for original examples.

Such designs are designed for the use of a summer shower storage tank, heating will be carried out due to the flat shape of the tank.

OPTION #4

Another interesting solution would be a combination. For example, three walls can be made of rigid material, sewn up with wood or a sheet of metal or polycarbonate, and the fourth wall can be a screen of opaque film. Unfortunately, it will not work to immerse a water tank on such a design, and therefore water can be let in from a home water supply.

This can simplify the task of providing shower water and heating. Thus, with your own hands, you can make a shower with heated water from a home column or boiler.

OPTION #5

A shower similar to the previous one can be made by attaching it to the house, or rather to its wall. Cover the wall with a material that will not allow water to penetrate the wall and bring the pipe for the watering can to a height of about 230 centimeters. In this case, the frame is not needed at all, but if the open version does not suit you, then you can make a screen or curtain that will move along a curved pipe. The floor can be laid out with tiles or other convenient material, having previously made a drain.

OPTION #6

If possible, you can lay out shower enclosures made of natural stone. This solution will fit perfectly into the landscape design of the entire site. In the variant in the photo, water is supplied from a domestic water supply, since the presence of a barrel can disrupt the aesthetics of the structure. The stone was laid out without mortar, because its flat shape allows the whole structure to stand securely.

OPTION #7

A budget option for a summer shower is the use of materials from tree branches. The frame can be made from thick and even branches, and the walls from bending vines or long branches.

This option is not only quite cheap, but also looks original. The water supply due to the fragility of the frame is carried out from the water supply.

Finished blocks and prices

Factory-made outdoor shower cabins have a lot of variety. First of all, they can be made in different colors, since the colors of polycarbonate and corrugated board can be different. Also, the lining can be made of synthetic fabrics, for example, from a film or tarpaulin. You will also find two configurations: with and without a locker room.

On average, the prices for cabins packed in an awning are 15 thousand rubles. The package includes a tank with a volume of 200 liters. If you want to have a locker room, then the amount will be about 18 thousand or more.

The same options, but with polycarbonate walls and a heated tank, will cost 20 and 25 thousand rubles, respectively.

Of course, these prices are approximate and you can find the exact figures in local hardware stores.

What do you need to build an outdoor shower with your own hands?

Earlier we already talked about the materials from which you can make a shower stall, the frame is best made from a professional pipe; sheathing has a wide range of materials to choose from: profile flooring, polycarbonate, awning and even oilcloth. When choosing a material, consider the tools that you have for installation.

Also consider the durability of materials. For example, polycarbonate will retain its properties longer than wood, but it does not respond well to high temperatures and is more difficult to assemble.

Preparation plan

  1. Drawing and plan. On average, a shower cabin on the street is made with dimensions of 1000 * 1000 * 2200 millimeters. Such dimensions allow, inside, to feel comfortable for the average person. At the request of the owner, the width and length can be more, but in no case less. Reducing the parameters will create difficulties in accepting the procedure. And this height is due to the fact that the part will take away the lunge of the watering can from the ceiling and the pallet.

In addition, the drawing will be useful if you decide to include a dressing room or other extensions in the building. Such a calculation will help to avoid additional costs and be fully prepared for construction.

  1. The choice of material for the frame. It is recommended to use metal: a corner or a profile pipe. For the frame, you will need a corner 50 by 50 millimeters or a professional pipe 40 by 20 millimeters. Calculate the footage of the blanks based on the dimensions of the shower: height, perimeter and length. Also consider tank dimensions when designing frame dimensions. The structure must be strong enough to bear the weight of the full container. In addition, such material will last much longer than any tree. Maintenance is minimal - touch up in time to avoid rotting.

If the choice falls on a tree, then in order for it to fulfill its role for a long time, it must be treated with special moisture-resistant agents, and then with paint or varnish. The part of the tree that will be in the ground must be covered with bitumen or resin.

  1. Cladding material. The list to choose from is very large, but the most practical and most popular are brick, corrugated board or polycarbonate. All these types differ in the way they are assembled and how they need to be maintained: for brickwork: you need a mortar, after which it would be useful to varnish it from the inside; it will be enough to attach the corrugated board to the bolts, having previously drilled holes; polycarbonate is also bolted, but it will already need washers.
  2. Water source. Equip your shower with a capacity that is sufficient for the use of all those living on the site. On average, 20-30 liters of water are required per person (fortunately, the choice in stores is huge). Since the weather can bring surprises, heating will not be superfluous. It is possible to equip your tank with electric heating using a heating element. If possible, run water supply from the house to the shower, this will allow the use of water heated by a boiler or gas water heater.
  3. Roof. The important part, because while you are swimming, there will be a rather heavy load on top. In order not to be injured, the material must be rigid. As a roof, it is better to use slate or corrugated board. Polycarbonate under a large load will simply burst.
  4. Drain. Drainage is best done about two meters from the structure. This will help prevent bad odors. Convenient parameters for the pit will be 500 millimeters in diameter and 1000-1500 deep. The walls and drainage are poured with concrete using formwork.
  5. Tools and consumables. At a minimum, you will need: a hammer, a saw and a hacksaw, a grinder, a drill. Welding is well suited for fastening a metal frame, and electrodes will be needed for it. You will also need to acquire nails, bolts, drills with a diameter corresponding to the bolts.

You will also need a watering can, a mixer, if hot water supply is provided, adapters, nozzles, pipes and hoses for water supply.

Sequence of operations

To assemble a shower cubicle, you must:

  1. According to the drawing in the photo, we weld or assemble with bolts, parts of the frame. When assembling, take into account the loss in length.
  2. We put the halves vertically and connect them using welding seams or the same bolts.
  3. We pour the screed-concrete and control that the legs plunge 10-15 centimeters into the screed. Using the level, make sure that the structure becomes even. For a brick building, concrete and screed are poured. For draining, a plastic pipe is used, which must be placed in concrete during the pouring process.
  4. After the concrete has hardened, proceed to the sheathing and installation of plumbing, accessories, as well as the final arrangement of the booth.

Upon completion of the assembly of the frame, it remains only to veneer it with the selected material. Consider the dimensions of the material based on the dimensions of the "skeleton". It is better to arrange a drain using a pallet or, at the stage of concrete formation, make a current by placing a plastic pipe there, which will lead to a sewer pit.

The source of water can be either a plastic tank on the cabin roof or a pipe from a domestic water supply.

As you can see, with just a little involvement of imagination, you can build an outdoor shower by spending a minimum of money and getting a maximum of aesthetics and quality.

So, you decided to equip a wooden shower in the country with your own hands - where do you start? Of course, with the choice of location for the shower and design. The next step will be.

After that, they move on to building walls. When this stage is over, you can do the floor, roof and door installation. Well, now about each of these stages in more detail.

Choosing a place for a summer shower cabin made of wood with your own hands

Before you make a wooden shower with your own hands, you need to carefully choose a place for it. If the heating of the water in the shower tank will occur only from the sun, then the place for the country shower should be located only on the sunny side.

The water tank should be exposed to sunlight for as long as possible during the day, especially in the morning. In this case, the water will warm up to a comfortable temperature. It is desirable that the sun illuminates the shower stall. In addition, it should be located in such a way that it is not blown by the winds.

Also, before making a shower out of wood, the place where it will be built must be equipped with a water supply and drainage system.

For the normal operation of a summer shower, a high-quality outlet and quick disposal of waste water are necessary. When the garden shower is located on an elevated place, a good outflow of water is naturally ensured. In the heat, the load on the outdoor shower increases significantly.

It is necessary to take into account the possibility of not only supplying clean water, but also constructing a concreted receiving well for wastewater. To do this, equip a drain pit with a volume of about 2 m. If a summer shower requires a small flow of water, then you can not make a drainage system. Water after bathing will be absorbed by itself, even if there is waterproof clay in the area under the soil layer.

If the family consists of 2-3 people, then a few tens of liters of warm water will be enough to take a shower. For 4 people or more, the amount of water needed to shower increases to several hundred liters.

If you make a wooden shower with additional heating with your own hands, you need to place it away from the apartment building.

When installing, you should remember about the nature and properties of groundwater. If the garden has sandy soil, then in depth it is usually underlain by clay rock. Then the used water from the shower can easily seep into the soil to the clay layer, and already through it it will fall into the aquifer or into the local reservoir. In this case, there is a danger of runoff entering the well water.

How to make a shower out of wood: design

Before you make a wooden shower, you need to draw up a project. To do this, you need to determine the size of the future design. For a good pressure of the jets, it is necessary to place a container with water at a height of 2.5 m. The convenience of the cabin is of great importance so that you can comfortably wash in the shower at any time. If the dimensions of the booth are at least 2 X 1.5 m, then inside it you can place a clothes hanger, a shelf for soap, etc.

When equipping a wooden summer shower with your own hands, remember that the dimensions of the internal space in the booth should be at least 100 x 100 cm so that you can freely raise your arms or bend down without bumping into the walls.

The cubicle must have a shower compartment and a water-proof dressing room, which is usually at least 60 cm wide, so the interior space for an outdoor shower cabin cannot be less than 160 X 100 cm. It is advisable to design a structure of 190 X 140 cm. To these parameters should be added more wall thickness, resulting in 200 X 150 cm.

How to make the foundation of a wooden shower for a summer residence with your own hands

To build a wooden summer shower with your own hands, you do not need a special foundation. The installation technology implies strict adherence to the strict verticality of the frame racks and a strong connection with the strapping. In this case, the supports should rest tightly on the linings. Compliance with these rules is mandatory, since a heavy water tank will be installed at the top. After determining the dimensions, it is necessary to make markings, marking a rectangle on the ground with dimensions of 170 X 110 cm or 190 x 140 cm. The height of a summer country shower can be 2.5-3 m. With a small support area, it will not be stable enough. To avoid tipping over the structure, it is recommended to equip a pile or. It is easy to build, but it will reliably hold the shower in the wind and other loads, since the 200 l water tank has a significant weight. As a material for the foundation, you can use metal poles, metal or asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 90-100 mm and a length of 1.5-2 m. After that, four wells 1-1.5 m deep must be drilled in the ground at the corners of the shower. insert pipes or pillars in such a way that each of them rises above the ground level by at least 30-50 cm.

The bandaging of the pillars during the construction of a wooden summer shower for a summer residence with your own hands can be done in the form of a closed strapping, starting from the top.

This foundation design is a rigid frame. It is more convenient to assemble it on the ground, and then fasten it with long bolts.

The strength of the structure is ensured by the coincidence of all axes. In addition, fastening must be done using long bolts. In this case, it will be possible to install a water barrel with a volume of about 200 liters on the roof of the shower. A shower cubicle is considered the most stable if there are six foundation pillars under it. Under the columnar foundation, six holes should be dug with dimensions of 20 X 20 or 30 X 30 cm and a depth of 40-50 cm. The dimensions and depth depend on the structure of the soil. Pits must be filled with cement-sand mortar mixed with pebbles or gravel.

The places for the shower frame are ready. The base of the do-it-yourself wooden shower frame for the cottage should be made waterproof, with a slope to the drain, which is connected to the used water drainage system. Between the pits, it is necessary to remove the upper layer of soil to a depth of 20 cm, and along the edges of the formed pit, it is necessary to strengthen the formwork from boards or plywood.

The recess under the shower can be covered with roofing felt or PVC film, but it is better to concrete it, forming a kind of water-resistant tray so that the earth does not silt under the country shower. After that, the bottom of the pit must be covered with sand, spilled with water, tamped, and then poured with a solution so that the platform rises 10 cm above the ground and grabs places for the foundation.

From the pallet, which has a slight slope, the water will go into the gutter, so the slope must also have a drainage gutter. Drainage of water from the summer shower must be organized into a special gutter (septic tank) located on the site or outside it. Water should be discharged through a pipe laid in a trench with a certain slope towards the sewage pit.

Under a wooden shower with your own hands, you can arrange a strip foundation up to 30 cm deep without a monolithic concrete platform. In order to give the future structure the correct geometric shape, it is necessary to check the equality of the diagonals of the foundation using a rope or a thick fishing line. After that, you can proceed to digging a trench 30 cm X 30 cm. The foundation should be poured with a concrete solution prepared from 1 part of cement, 3 parts of clean sand and 5 parts of fine gravel (5-20 mm).

Before preparing the solution, the sand must be carefully sieved. The solution must be poured into the excavated trench. When it completely hardens, use the level to check the horizontalness of the foundation.

If there are any irregularities, they must be leveled using a cement-sand mortar. If constant use of the shower is expected, then under the foundation it is necessary to pour a concrete platform or lay it out of brick in the form of a rectangle. Concreting of the foundation site should be done with a slope towards the sewer pipe, and a wooden grate should be placed on top.

How to make the walls of a wooden shower cabin for a summer residence with your own hands

When building the walls of a wooden shower cabin with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that with high humidity, the wood can begin to rot, so it should be treated with special anti-rot agents. It also has a number of advantages: it is an environmentally friendly, outwardly attractive and fairly durable material.

If it is not possible to make the entire booth out of wood, then you can use wood to build load-bearing poles. The remaining parts will be easier to attach to wooden poles than to metal pipes. The erection of the walls of the shower cubicle should begin with a rigid frame.

For a slate frame, you will need four cast-iron pipes, but any other material available can be used. For pipes in a concrete or brick foundation, holes should be prepared, pipes inserted into them and concreted for strength. When the cement mortar is completely dry, you need to proceed to the installation of slate sheets. For such a booth, three sheets of slate are required. They should be attached on three sides directly to the prepared frame.

On the fourth side there will be a door. The frame for the cabin can be made of metal corners. Its two elements are the lower and upper "circles" made of metal corners. For them, you can use corners 30 x 30 mm.

The third element of the frame is the binding "circles": pieces of metal reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm and the required length. For greater structural strength, the lower "circle" of the frame should be concreted into the base. It is recommended to supplement the vertical reinforcement with several wooden bars to make it easier to fasten the material used to cover the booth.

Do-it-yourself wood shower poles are best sheathed on both sides with wooden clapboard. Such walls will reliably protect the building not only from the cold, but also from the heat. Since the frame pillars are usually located at a distance of about 1 m, it is not necessary to erect an intermediate frame.

Horizontal strips can be fastened directly to corner posts. For these purposes, slate, sheet asbestos cement or other materials should be used. Plastic and metal are allowed, but not recommended.

For the device of the simplest version of the shower cabin of the summer shower, you will need boards and bars for the construction of the room, as well as brick and cement for laying the base.

After marking and preparing the base, the bars should be attached to the foundation with brackets and anchors, then sheathed with boards or clapboard. Along the perimeter, the bars must be tied in three places.

When building a shower cabin made of wood with your own hands, it is recommended to choose a beam of 100 x 100 mm for the frame.

After carrying out work on laying the foundation and external strapping, it is necessary to make a dressing inside the frame, which will serve as logs for the shower floor. Rigid elements (slopes) must be made between adjacent pillars, which must be installed in the thickness of the wall itself. Most often, the walls of a summer shower are arranged in the form of shields from quarter-planed boards.

The construction of a summer wooden shower must be approached thoroughly. To give the entire structure the necessary stability, it is required to concrete the bases of the beams or dig them into the ground. Before that, they should be tarred or smeared with machine oil. In addition, they can be wrapped with roofing material. This is done in order to prevent the wood from rotting in the ground. The support posts from above must be interconnected by dressing from the same beam. This will give strength to the entire structure, which can withstand weights up to 200 kg. After that, you can proceed to the lower dressing, which will become the basis for the shower floor.

The walls should be upholstered with wooden boards, having previously treated them with drying oil, which will prevent the wood from rotting. It is recommended to insulate the walls using foam plastic or one of the modern foamed PVC insulation.

The best rest after hard work in your summer cottage is a pleasant, warm, relaxing shower, which will not only have a calming effect, but also relieve nervous tension that has accumulated over the whole day.

To install the shower, epoxy resin is used, for the manufacture of which special fillers for resins are used.

Therefore, many gardeners equip their plots with summer showers.

Summer shower at your dacha

The outdoor shower stall is perhaps one of the most important buildings on the site. With it, you can not only wash your body after a whole day of work on your site, but also refresh yourself in the summer heat.

Before installing a shower cabin on your site, you need to choose the best place for this. The shower should be located at a small distance from the main building, most often behind the house.

After the owner of the site has decided on the area for the shower and the size of the shower cabin, he can proceed with the installation. This room must be at least 1 sq.m. area, but preferably a little larger.

If a shower dressing room is planned in order to undress and hang dry things, the building area is doubled. The height of the building is usually approximately 2.5 meters.

In general, the dimensions of our cabin are 1.0x2.0x2.5 m, this is the best option. If the cabin is planned to be mounted from wood, then it is necessary to mount the frame using wooden beams or metal corners.

The walls in the shower cabin, for the best ventilation method, should recede from the ceiling and floor by twenty centimeters. They can be built from materials left over after the main construction of the homestead.

Shower equipment with water supply

When installing a shower stall in your summer cottage, the owner must necessarily think in advance how to equip the water supply and drainage. Since the drainage and supply system is mounted at the time of laying the foundation of the future shower cabin.

Water in the shower is very often served from a source located at a remote distance. Such a source can be a well drilled on the site, or a standard water supply.

Nowadays, due to the presence of plastic pipes of small diameter, it will not be difficult to connect the cabin to the main source of water supply. What are the benefits of these pipes, they are more durable and do not rust and various erosions, like metal pipes.

They are sold in coils, and there is not much trouble during the laying of the pipe for the water supply, it is only necessary to provide a connection to the main source, which can be done with a small, rubber piece of hose.

You can also easily connect a plastic pipe to a storage tank for a shower. The advantage of such pipes is that if they were not installed thoroughly, they can be easily removed from the site for the winter period.

Shower drain

Water drainage after washing can be done in various ways. Some owners of summer cottages absolutely do not drain the water.

One of the most normal ways is to drain water into a centralized sewer, but, unfortunately, not every owner of a summer cottage has such an opportunity.

The best way, of course, is then the waste and drainage pit. This is inexpensive and allows wastewater to go deep into the ground. A pit for drainage water can be placed under the shower stall, or in close proximity to it.

It is dug to a depth of no more than 50-60 cm, the size of the sides is 1.0x1.0 m. After the pit is dug, the soil in it is tightly rammed and it is covered with rubble or broken bricks.

On top of the filled pit, put a plastic, steel or wooden pallet.

After that, a shower cabin is mounted. If the wastewater pit is nearby, it is best to drain it from a plastic sewer pipe.

Photo ideas on how to make a summer shower in the country