What to process a knob from Berestov on a knife. Homemade knife knife set of bark. Handle from Beresti

Transform the most ordinary crying knife is very easy, although that we are for this you need to work ... one of possible options There will be a knife transformation by making or replacing the handle from birch and wood. In this case, the texture and color of the tree will delight their owner with warm, natural colors, and natural material We will have to be very useful, especially if you use a knife often. Here is the process of making knife knob from Beresta and Tree, we will tell in the article and give step-by-step photos.

What will need will be for the manufacture of knife knife from Beresta

Here you will need berst, it is like a reasonless fact. When you get to get bark, you can do it in two ways. The first, it is to cut squares as in our case. And the second, cut round washers with a cutter, like the one that is used for the insert door handles In the door or cutting circles in plasterboard. In this case, everything will be quick, carefully and clear! Next, we need a vice or screed on a powerful heel. Since the gluing process itself will go through with such devices, and not on the knife. Still required Bulgarian with a grinding disk or ribbon Machine For grinding. At the expense of glue, you can say the following if you want, then use PVA, but Beresto can be glued and without it. About this next.

We make knife knob from Berestov with their own hands

First, you prepare all the workpieces. The best thing to try on the best thing on the knife, because from the assembly of these billets will depend on how much material it is necessary and how everything will look like on a knife.

Further, if you use glue, we water all over the glue. Here you can make it so, dilute PVA 1: 1 with water and just get into the entire assembly of this solution. 2-3 minutes is enough. Then we are waiting for 5-7 minutes until the glue slightly grab and remove everything from the handle. Now we take the tie and already as you should be tightened by all the sheets of Beresta.

You can also wear a stud with two washers from the sides and stretching the entire assembly. If your design is withstanding boiling, then the entire assembly along with a temporary retaining device is thrown into a saucepan with boiling water. Boil and pull out. You yourself will not believe how the bertie stick together to each other. It will come out of it, this natural glue glides all the sheets of Berestov. Now we are waiting for drying. Glue should dry finally. It is necessary to need about a day.
We wear everything back to the knife knob, now we set the limiting washers, the tree, bark and in the end all. We twist the nut and start handling the handle. She needs to give the shape so that she was well lay in her hand.

You can process with the help of a grinder and a circle, or on a tape grinding machine. This is whom who is and who prefers what.

After rough processing It will be necessary to polish metal, wood and bark. It is polished that give the handle that the most incredible completed and solid look. Can be polished by a fuliver or something like that. In the end, it is possible to apply a solution of a polyroli with wax.

A wax and a solution of a chipidar and solvent (1: 1) flows into it in the water bath. It is evenly mixed and after everything is cooling, but not to the end, it will still be warm, polished with this composition a handle. She will give a knife knob deep colorwill protect it from water, other liquids, to some extent from the sun.
As a result, we get a very beautiful and wonderful knife. Of course, the highlight of such a knife will be a pen from Berriest. About how to do it, you already know!

Let us continue:

Place, based on the traces of crimp, the location and holes (18 mm) of the future seam.

Drilling drill 5 mm

With the hook, sew strap.

Make oval hole under the suspension (drill, dremel). What happened.

Remove (Corvette 51) Excess Beresto and Space. The sheath is mostly ready. Go to the knife handle.

It's time to toned suwel and bark of handle under the color of the boerst scoothes. We use water morons.

Mixing (gradually) Various simulants pick up a color by checking it on a piece of supels.

The handle is covered with compotes of the veneer (tassel) and wiped with a rag.

After drying and energetic rubbing, the coarse X / B rag, the handle acquired a completely different look.

Danish polymerized (3 days) and is also arranged by a manually with a rag.

The sheath is also covered with Danish and are isolated. A woven pigtail was inserted into the oval hole from the same straps. Hands are shaking from Suweli. Everything !
Further photo session and the topic "Tues".
Ready to listen to criticism.

Each of us sooner or later a knife appears without a handle. It can be thrown out, or to arrange a budget lesson for several weekends and weekdays ... And that's what can happen!

Once I was given a decorative knife of Chinese masters. For a long time, the deformity did not live, but instead of urn, I decided to make a simple chopping knife and sent the remaining blade to torture: I pulled out, I went, let go, polished, drilled holes for fasteners ... The story is not about the blade, so "we are going on."
At the cottage, pieces of spire pear were selected (or apple trees - I don't remember already), in the nearest forest there was a sodaned birch ...
The rusties were waged on the recipes of masters in a salt solution with coniferous sawdresses and download branches, after which they sucked. These recipes can be easily found on the Internet, so I will not stop on the details.
The first thing was sharpened by the Britis. The response is drilled in it regular drill According to the metal in the size of the shank, given the time not slipping, it was not turned and put on tight. A little epoxy for strength and voila!




Beresto was decided to glue immediately on the shank - so that the villages are tight.
The outer edge cut out with scissors, the inner span of a knife. Beresta was laying for several months in a dry room, but remained elastic, if you can say so, so it did not expose it to any additional processing.
Several tips:
1) the outer edge of the bark billets do not try to make the handle as close as possible to the form of the handle - during the action, then everything will go without any problems, but they do not miss the size;
2) Bresh billets It is important to have the fibers in different directions so that the handle keeps the load in all directions;
3) The more accurately carved the inner hole, the better - over time it will not give the backlash and will not scroll.




On the skouring hand from the primary materials constructed simple clamp (Budget for consumables is ridiculous), the blade to avoid pollution is wrapped with a painting ribbon (sticky side to outside so that the glue does not stay on the blades.
Bristian blanks can soak half an hour in hot water And simply send under the press, but I decided not to wet, but missed all the waterproof PVA (when the PVA with Bershest is scratched, such a charming smell is given!) And sent to the clamp.



In the blank, the hole was also made by the hole "in the bunch". It was planted a blank planted on epoxy, after which the formation of handles began. The process is simple: we take a drill (it is important that the turnoves can be placed relatively small), a rubber nozzle with velcro, emerate circles of different graininess and make what was conceived!
I sat down very firmly, but since the holes were already drilled, I had to go to the copper wire as planned in advance (I took the hammer and zadolbil - the edges themselves flattened, and repelly removed the emery).
The last stage is polished felt.




Beresta is a durable material, but the tree is desirable to further process something. It is better to do it in advance, but I did not know that.
In various forums, in different ways, I describe the process of the shaft of the handle with Cookie - do not believe anyone: Beresta darkens from wax (the photo shows a small spot near the thousands), and if you are wrapped with scotch, then when unwinding you can damage it to it.
I decided to act the most simple and fiscal ( linseed oil dry / polarizes long, teak oil or special impregnations need to be sought, and they are probably not no one else) - bought a piece of wax in the market at the market, threw in a jar, melted on a water bath and held it, he was heated in the water bath, it will not stop the workpiece until it stops Going out the air, then plotted (right with the remains of wax) with a soft cloth.
Now you can remove the scotch from the blade and sharpen.




On each fruit tree There is a place where the gardener cuts off annually by a worthless escape, as a result of which a bump-thigh is formed on the branch / trunk. This thief is called Suwel - the perfect piece of wood for needlework, for in the context gives an amazing drawing.
I got a combuary in the wavy fibers, and the tick is all in the bugs of the bitch. There was one big and black bitch on the center of the center in the center, but I decided to leave, and he, the infection, when heated was gone in the side ...



Photographed on a file, so the quality of polishing and drawing of the area is unlikely to be evaluated ...



Because of the shape of the knife and personal beliefs, the sheath decided to do not be desired, and besides, with a guard of a koburn type. Everything went four evenings.
The process is simple: cleaned waterproof PVA from three layers Berestors front, rear and edge into the center and under the press.
Usually, the barking sheaths make "invalid" outward, but I had a very beautiful best, so I did not turn over - it went through a thin layer of PVA for safety and that's it.
From a piece plastic cornerremaining when installing windows, made a blank in the size of the blade, inserted between the workpieces and glued them with each other. After drying, leveled and stuck the edges.


The last day - drilled holes and flashed a bunk needle.
IMPORTANT: Do not drill "under beer" - it can be as crooked as I have.
Tip: The ends of the threads are easy to hide inside, if one wrap around the other, and then stick to the hole, from which he (the first tail of the thread) went out and tightened. Then we cut from both sides and everything (although you can still drop glue into the hole).
Since almost everything was done from what was in the garage (I bought only a nut and wax), the budget of the crafts came out ridiculous.
And most importantly: if you decide to make a knife yourself, be sure to familiarize yourself with the legislation on this topic!
Do not judge strictly - this is my first knife and sheath. ;-)

Set of knife knife from birch. Handle for knife with their own hands from Beresta. Bruce from horns. Bruce from the moose horns for a knife. By yonas_kaki.Wedge - Lauri RT 77 - 77x19x3.3 Handle - Power horn, berst ahead with brass, rogue, pin. Parameters - 95x27x18 Sheath - Beech liner, vegetable oppling leather, high shoe thread, wax for shoes, embossing, brown felt-tumbler.

And now about how it all was done. Over the size of the size was taken Ketitskaya Lighter

therefore, her native sister will regularly appear in the process of the story. So ... I took the blade and saw a piece from the horns suitable in size for the future hospital

(I do not pay attention to the sharpening shank - the wedge was initially preparing for another product) because the knife is not standard small, I decided to draw a sketch, although I have not done this long ago

according to the sketch, it became clear that the tail will have to not just cut, but also bend, which was done, with the help of items depicted in the photo

Then he took the future friend and with the help of G-6 G-6 from the Oberman's sector, gave it to the ends (not seryoi, and the hospital) shape of elegant arc

Having placed on the front side of the future hospital, drilled three holes on the front side, and with back side, I made a sample by a mumbler with a cutter (seen in the photo) so that when fitting, do not make up the entire thickness of the housing, but only thin (about 5 mm) wall. All tools used in fit are shown in the third photo.

I could never fit the Lauri blade to the horn without gaps, and not only to Horny, if you are honest, but fortunately, I have long been learning the method of dealing with this (it is on the horny principles) and I'll show it right now!

But first, you need to prepare a facial surface. Having sled it carefully, almost polished, shed a strong cyanacryl and put on the sun dry.

When everything dried, Skashchyril is surplus and polished the facial surface with steel cotton. Carved the latter plate next bit and made from trimming pine board... Probably, it will correctly call it Punson. Those. Krenovina, which snaps tightly the brass spacer to the concave surface of the hospital (it can be seen on a common photo in the lower right corner) sweat, then stuck the usual tape the facial surface of the hospital and thin sharp knife Cut the tape over the edge of the hole. Now it will be clear why.

Mixed white poxipol and smeared the shank, in the hospital area and the Bruce himself from the inside, Masyuki right along the stacked tape face. Incusted the wedge into the Britis, filled the sample from the opposite side of the hospital in the same Pokilipol, smeared the surface to them, put on the tail of the brass, Punson and lit all in the clamp.

Explicit sweeps from the blade we remove with a cotton wool or a napkin, moistened in alcohol or acetone, but so as not to squeeze the plowing from the gap. Further it is important to correctly catch the moment when Poksipol has already stood so much that it will not get out of the gap, if you pull, but also did not get so much that he harden finally. This moment comes hours in 8-12 after gluing. Take the edge of Scotch and - about a miracle! It did not stick to the bistore and all overlooking, essentially, only on the blade. Carefully, thin and sharp knife, cut off the surplus, trying not to scratch the combuary and blade. With the same knife we \u200b\u200bclean the inner side, where the brass.

Go to Bester. First you need to estimate - how many plates need. To do this, on the sketch, we measure the plot that will be filled with Best, we submit them to the thickness of brass spacers multiplied by their number, and divide the residue to the thickness of the Berestov existing sheet (measuring the unit). We obtain the approximate number of the desired plates. Add from 10 to 30 percent for shrinkage (the thickness of the burest, the more shrinkage) and proceed to cutting. I will not write in detail that it is necessary to clean it outside from small lochmotyev, dirt (if any), etc., and from the inner - from "proboscope" seals. I try to harvest Beresto so that one of her edge (across the fibers) was as smoother as possible. It greatly facilitates the cutting. On the Stangel, I donate the length of the plate (it will be rectangular) and I spend it along the edge of Beresta, then I cut off the line and cut off from the resulting strip the piece, the desired width, already cut this strip to the end, trying to bypass damaged and problem areas. The next strip is meant not a long future plate, but width. Those. On parts of the fiber plates will go along, on the part. Along / travelers should be equally and strictly alternate. This requirement and beauty and strength (a kind of laminate is obtained).

Then I take a Baaalish saucepan, pouring a gaaharya water from under the tap in it (I give water to drain, for a while, so that it was truly hot! ..) And throwing all the sliced \u200b\u200bplates into it. In turn, we take them out, "I contact" the special tool and cut the partition with a sharp knife. "Probles" do so that the record is sitting on the tail as tight as possible, without the backlash, but so that the edges are not climbed and not sticking along the tail, it will greatly complicate the shrinkage. And immediately add them in turn - along / across.

I dial them onto the tail, I put another brass, keep the back of the poinson and clamp in the clamp. For good, it would be nice to give this cause to dry. Then the fibe of the lines will be twice. But with this situation, the process can delay the day to 4 and, most importantly, it may turn out a big color difference between the packages (I already had it once). And I decided to do everything in one right. Has it all exactly as much as I did slits in the plates for the next package. Only I pierced it after a set, no longer curved Punson, but straight. We look at the pictures.

The remaining two packages gathered in the same Makar (only another pointers had to do - concave) and put it dry. To once again emphasize the fact that the assembly of Berestov on the wet self-sufficient, I show a photo on which handle has already been harasshed, but there is still no slut. Those. Beresta nothing holds. However, it does not smell or by itself, nor when shelling in Grinder, although the thickness of the package from the edge to the brass (brass to Bester does not stick) just 15 mm in the thick place.

Everything dried, he was arranged, go to the hill. According to the sketch, it approximately noted the right piece of horns, sipped him and slept on a small roller of the Greenman to the arc formed by the dried bark. Spinned and once again figured the fit - all nishtyak!

Initially, the installation was planned deaf. But after gluing and sprinkles ... In short, it returned to the hole on the ass (overlooked with the drilling under the shank). What to do? .. Mobile, list of contacts, Finca. RU - "Vasiyiaiiiiiiil !!! Pomiriiiiiiii !!!" "Come" - answered Vasil in the end, appeared from a knife in the ass here such a pin.

And from now on, the shoals got avalanche-like! First, I never imagined anything. Stupidly sprinkle would not come out - too much hole - 8mm and too close the tail - one incorrect movement and the drill will lead to the side and pipets to the neighbor. Sliced \u200b\u200ba piece of Pina, circulated him with a needle on the population and chose a nutrooter with a cutter. But chose not perfectly round. Yes, and the pin himself is also not simple - there are two holes in it, which, too, need to fill something. I thought for a long time than, a bunch of options went over and decided, filled with the color of the neighboring - Bul. The glue was not going to Pokcipol, but on Epox a 30-minute, so that the reserve is more. I staped in her sawdust horns - everything is gray. Added tooth powder - it became much white. Okay, I think it will freeze - just what you need. Froze - gray! Not that it looks completely bad, but ... I would like to whitewash. Yes, and got there something dark ... ugh !!!

Okay, it is necessary to sew sheath. I will not write about it in detail. And so three, at least, this process was described in colorfully and I also learned the insert, I had impregnated His Central Asian, I reached the skin, I soaked with Pva, sewed, melted, dried. The question arose about the drawing for embossing. Chose with the Woftymer customer

1. to work, you will need a large number of barks. It should be dry. That's right if you sort it up in different packages depending on the thickness. The blanks for the handle are made very simple. They can be square or round. With the help of a stencil cut curly details from Berriest. All uneven sections of Beresta, of course, can be selected, but you can clean emery paper (at your discretion).
2. Hands or with the help of a sharp blade we remove a white layer from the surface of Berest. For work, it is not useful. In each workpiece, in the center, we drill a hole, the diameter of which must accurately match the rod. We sit every detail on the metal rod.
3. As soon as the rod is filled, tightly tighten the bark, and screw the nuts on the rod. The more denser you delay the Berest, the better the handle will be. The length of such a workpiece can be different, but it is optimal to consider 110-130 mm.
4. Stage of cooking. Put the handle in a deep saucepan. Cooking handle needed 2-3 times to 20-35 minutes. After each cooking, carefully take out the handle, and continue to pull the nuts. Ultimately, the length of the handle will become no more than 90-95 mm. The cooking process helps Beste together. This happens at the expense large number Segrating in her. Dry handle best on fresh air or the balcony in the clumsy form.
5. After the workpiece is dry, carefully remove the nuts and remove the rod. The blank can be made of well-dried wood. For gluing blanks and blanks, use epoxy resin. This is a very durable and reliable material.
6. The final stage - giving the form. You can work on turning machine Or take advantage of sandpaper. Beresta absorbs almost nothing, so the painting or coating of the product is a useless occupation.