Arrangement of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time consuming, expensive and difficult, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the floors will become unusable in a short time and will need to be replaced. By using some impregnations, it is possible to protect the wood from rotting. Chemical methods of protection are very effective and prevent the process of deterioration of the material. However, a timber structure impregnated with chemicals cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that it is because of this indicator that a tree is chosen, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between the layers. Fasten the wooden covering using metal squares to create a gap between the bases and joists.

Source 1poderevu.ru

Subfloors are defined as subfloors that form an ideal surface for a subfloor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed to the floor covering.

In timber structures, sub-floors are made using three methods:

• wooden on logs;
• pouring with concrete;
• use of plywood flooring.

Source fondeco.ru

Wooden floors on logs

In a wooden house, the sub-floor device does not differ from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick structure. The only feature is how the logs are attached:

1. There is no need to attach the joists to various wooden planks. The best option is to strengthen them to the plinth or foundation grillage, retreating a couple of centimeters from all walls. The distance from the support should be at least 11cm on all sides of the log.
2. Before laying the base, lay the harness from the bottom, which is made from a long and thin board. Lags are attached to it using metal anchors. They do not need to be rigidly reinforced with a harness. It should only be fixed so that they do not stagger while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have an indent from the walls by a few centimeters.

If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to bump into the walls. But before that, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a beam or logs to choose from. It is necessary to first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut out the dimensions necessary for the groove in the tree, which will be required for the support function.

Important: it is recommended to add about 2 cm for further expansion of the lag. It must be remembered that the laying of the log and beams is done on the grillage or basement when the laying of the waterproofing layer is over.

Source kamtehnopark.ru

Standard steps between two logs are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, the choice of the section of the lag and the acting load is made. With small dimensions, the cross-sections should be approximately 15x10, with heavy loads - 15x20, with medium - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive loading, if the beams have a small cross-section, then it is desirable to provide the parameters of the cross-section of 30x40 cm.

Installation of subfloors on logs

When the installation is done, you will need to do the standard installation. It is performed in several stages:

1. It is necessary to secure the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the lags from the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial bar with boards that will be wider in width than the lags. They will need to be nailed either along or from the bottom of the lags.
2. Planks should be laid. They need to be laid on the cranial block, but not fixed. Given that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie free.
3. Waterproofing. Lay it on the rough floor. This is done to avoid additional stress. Lay the waterproofing so that it goes onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use foil insulation, and use a stapler for fastening.
4. Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
5. Vapor barrier. They are laid in the same way as waterproofing.
6. Ventilation. To create a ventilation gap, you only need to break through the counter-rails along the log on top of the vapor barrier.
7. Coating. At the final stage, it is proposed to use chipboard sheets, as well as boards. The logs must be separated from the wall with a gap of 2 cm. Heaters will then be placed in them.

Source lineyka.net

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer a house design service. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

Video description

Read more about floor insulation in a wooden house - in this video:

Plywood sub-floors

The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has a high hardness. Plywood is also used for flooring. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.

Plywood can be installed in one of two ways:

1. On a cement base. You will need to provide a level and level base or use adjusting stands.
2. Mount on logs. The main thing is to correctly set the lags to ensure that the sheet joint hits them. The lags should be positioned so that the top surface provides a straight line. Insulation and sound insulation are then removed from them.

Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it must be at least 15mm thick, if there are 2 layers, the minimum thickness must be at least 9mm.

Source homius.ru

Remove all debris and dust from the substrate prior to final installation. If possible, you should also do priming - treatment with a primer. The plywood must be fixed with glue, and the head of the self-tapping screw must be drowned.

Concrete floor

As a rough and final floor in a wooden house, the concrete option is less common than the others. The concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. This problem can be solved with the help of heat-insulating material.

The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is smoother and more durable. A concrete floor in a wooden house is also chosen because it is better preserved from destruction.

Source zamokok.ru

In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 steps:

1. Lay on the lags.
2. Lay on the ground.
3. A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
4. The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
5. Colas less than 11 cm should be driven into the ground, so that gravel can then be poured over them. After that, it should be tamped and pegs removed.
6. Next, sand is poured.
7. Then a large polyethylene film is laid, creating an overlap on the walls. She will be in the role of waterproofing.
8. Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. Each should be about 1 meter wide. The height of the installed rail must be equal to the height of the cord. Next, concrete is poured onto the prepared surface.
9. Concrete is spread along the slats.
10. Next, the concrete should be covered with a film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is sometimes necessary to spray the mass with water.
11. After the expiration date, it is covered with a cement and sand screed.

Materials for processing lags

Some environmental factors, such as dampness, should not affect lags. Therefore, when providing flooring in a wooden house, you should protect them from certain factors.

Bio-protective compounds

The drug with a bioprotective composition protects the tree from mold, rotting, blue discoloration, beetles and fungi. One application of these products will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigment is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of the application.

Source centermira.ru

Bio-protective compounds are praised for:

• environmental friendliness;
• slight odor;
• lack of allergens.

It is necessary to apply the preparations before the installation of the floor in a wooden house begins.

Indelible antiseptic

An excellent option if the city has high humidity. Also indicated for use in places with high rainfall, temperature extremes, baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time-consuming. Approximate consumption per meter is about 400 grams. Topcoat can be achieved after 4 coats. After finishing the work, the color of the tree will become pistachio.

Folk methods

Folk remedies for processing lags:

1. Transformer oil. Due to its deep penetration into the structure of the tree and embalming, this agent perfectly protects the material.
2. Resin. Birch resin will help from beetles, fungi and rotting. Its only drawback is that it is not protected from fire.
3. Motor oil. Pros - low price, good protection. Cons - too strong smell, sometimes interfering for several months.

Source de.decorexpro.com

Before starting work, you should understand the layout of wooden floors, which consist of 4 "layers":

1. Rough coverage.
2. Heat and waterproofing layers.
3. Finishing floor.
4. Finishing.

Therefore, wondering what to make a finishing floor in a wooden house from, you must first complete the first 2 stages, which were mentioned above, and start working on the finishing floor.

Source lesdomik.ru

To make a finishing floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.

Need to know! The finishing floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.

The construction of the floor of the first floor in a wooden house is erected in 3 stages:

1. Logs are laid - so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
2. The board needs to be fixed closer to the wall.
3. Next, you should use a hammer and a block so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. With the help of a self-tapping screw, fasteners of each log are carried out through the ridge.

Important! If there are plans to change the floor in the future, it is necessary to use a simple mounting option - all floorboards should be fixed from above to the logs using self-tapping screws.

Source ms.decorexpro.com

Conclusion

Wooden floors allow you to keep warm in the house with the use of minimal technical and material means. It is thanks to this feature that such floors throughout their centuries-old history have remained and remain the most widespread and do not yield their leadership even to the most modern high-tech flooring and coverings.

The floors made of high-quality wood, with proper care, retain their performance characteristics for centuries, are relatively inexpensive, versatile (they can be installed on any type of base), are harmless to the human body and look very impressive. If necessary, they themselves can serve as the basis for the installation of floors of a different type. In addition, wooden floors are quite easy to install and can be installed in a private house or apartment by just one person.

General principles for the construction of wooden floors

Directly genital boards are always laid on logs, but the logs themselves can be laid both on a concrete or even earthen base, and on supports - usually these are brick, wooden or metal pillars. Rarely, but the technology is still used, in which the ends of the logs are embedded in opposite walls or laid on specially provided ledges near the walls and are operated without intermediate supports. However, in this case, it is very difficult to block wide spans - logs of a very large section and weight are required, and it is almost impossible to install them correctly alone ...

Installation of wooden floors on a concrete base practically no different from the installation of floors in an apartment with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs. The situation is much more complicated with installation of the floor on the first floor of a private house, since in this case it is highly desirable to arrange a ventilated and DRY underground. Its presence to a large extent determines the strength and durability of the finished floor, especially in cases of a high location of groundwater.

A few words about the tool

The chosen method of floor installation depends on which tool you need for the job. But in any case, you cannot do without:

• laser level; in extreme cases, you can use the hydro level, but an assistant will be required to work with it;
• a regular or cross-type construction bubble level at least 1 meter long; a cross level is preferable, since it allows you to check the plane simultaneously in two directions;
• a hammer weighing no more than 500 g;
• chain or circular saw, or a good hacksaw.
• jointer and (or) grinders.

An ordinary carpenter's tool will not be superfluous - a square, a small ax, a plane, a chisel, a nail puller.

Floor device on support pillars

Traditionally, a wooden floor is assembled from the following "layers" (bottom to top):

• the basis of all flooring is logs;
• rough ("bottom") floor;
• waterproofing layer;
• thermal insulation layer;
• directly a wooden floor (final flooring);
• finishing floor covering.

This whole multi-layered "sandwich" is usually supported by support posts - concrete, brick, wood or metal.

Installation of brick pillars

The optimal choice today is brick pillars, which have acceptable strength characteristics, are quite affordable from a financial point of view and do not require special labor costs during construction. The only limitation is the height of such support pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; if it is greater, in order to maintain the strength of the supports, their cross-section will have to be increased, which will lead to a sharp increase in the required amount of bricks and, accordingly, an increase in material costs for construction. With a height of pillars up to 50-60 cm, a section of 1x1 brick is sufficient, at a height of 0.6-1.2 m, a section is made at least 1.5x1.5 bricks, posts up to 1.5 m high are laid out at least 2x2 bricks.

Anyway concrete "pyataks" must be poured under the brick supports the area of ​​which exceeds the cross-sectional area of ​​the posts by at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the centers of the platforms is selected within 0.7-1 m ALONG the log and 0.8-1.2 m BETWEEN the logs with a section of 100 ... 150x150 mm. After marking in the places where the pillars were erected, pits with a depth of about half a meter are pulled out; the main thing is that the bottom should be below the fertile layer of the earth. At the bottom of these mini-pits, a sand and gravel "pad" is made, onto which the concrete mixture is poured. It is desirable that the surface of the resulting "penny" is a few centimeters above ground level.

It is at the stage of laying out the support pillars the horizontality of the future floor is laid, and it is at this stage that it is best to use a laser level. With its help, the level of the LOWER EDGE of the LAG plus 1 cm is marked on the walls, a construction cord is stretched between the opposite walls at this level, and the height of the pillars is already adjusted to its level. It is not necessary to display it strictly to a millimeter - a gap of a couple of centimeters is quite acceptable. When calculating the total thickness of the floor, it should be borne in mind that at least its upper plane must be higher than the level of the building's basement - otherwise it will be extremely difficult to avoid "cold bridges".

Some features of support pillars

It is worth providing for them availability of fasteners for beams-lag... Typically, such fasteners are vertical "studs" with threads or anchor bolts embedded by 10-20 cm - then through holes are drilled in the logs in the appropriate places, with which the beams are "put on" the resulting pins, and are attracted by nuts and washers. The protruding excess "thread" is cut off with a "grinder".

The lateral surfaces of the posts and, especially, their upper plane, on which the lag will fit, preferably cover with a layer of strong plaster- it will additionally strengthen the structure and play the role of additional waterproofing. On the surface of the finished posts is laid 2-3 layers of small pieces of roofing material.

After the masonry mortar has completely dried and hardened (this takes about a week), logs can already be laid on the finished support pillars.

Laying logs on brick posts

The length of the lag is chosen depending on the construction of the floor. When laying on support pillars, there are only two options for such structures - "floating" and rigid.

Floating or hard floors?

In the first case, the entire "sandwich" of the floor lies and rests exclusively on the posts, not being rigidly tied to the walls or. In the second, the ends of the lag are rigidly attached to the walls in one way or another; such a design practically excludes the "walking" of the flooring, but when the building subsides, it may well lead to deformation of the finished floors.

With a "floating" version of the floor, the length of the lag is 3-5 cm less than the distance from wall to wall. In the second case, the gap should be no more than 2 cm - otherwise the logs will be difficult to rigidly attach to the walls. If necessary, lags can be made from two or more pieces, connecting them in "half paws" - but the joint must necessarily fall on the support post and be nailed or (with a lag section of up to 10x100 mm) screwed on with self-tapping screws.

If the final length of the lags is less than three meters, then they can be laid directly on the supports (not forgetting about waterproofing gaskets made of roofing material!); however, it is much better between the roofing felt and the lower plane of the beam-lag to lay flat a piece of board 25-50 mm thick. In case of head-on lags, this is a must!

Lag alignment

After laying the lags on the prepared support pillars, they must be "set" according to the level. This is done as follows: using wooden spacers of small thickness the two outer beams are laid strictly horizontally, according to the previously calculated and marked height level. So far, gaskets are used only on the extreme support pillars, for the time being, you can ignore the intermediate ones. The ends of the exposed logs are nailed to the walls; in the case of floating floors, this anchorage will be temporary.

On both sides, at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the walls, along the upper planes of the laid logs tightly the construction cord is stretched. All other intermediate beams are displayed along it; then, if necessary, gaskets are installed between the rest of the posts and lags. ALL spacers should be FIRMLY tied (nailed) to the lags, and, if possible, to the support posts. The beams should lie tightly on the posts, in extreme cases, gaps of no more than 2 mm are allowed - but not on adjacent posts.

Rough floor

After laying the log, a rough floor is made. For this, a narrow bar ("cranial" bar) is nailed along the entire length of the lower cut of the log on each side of it. Raw boards are laid on it between the logs with a length equal to the distance between the logs. After laying, these boards are covered with a "solid" vapor barrier film, on which the insulation is applied or filled up. From above, everything is completely covered with a windproof canvas.

Underfloor ventilation

When installing a floor on brick pillars in an underground space ventilation must be provided- forced (with a large cubic capacity of the underground) or natural. An obligatory element of such ventilation is the so-called "Air": through holes in or walls below floor level. Such openings should be available along the entire perimeter of the building and under internal partitions, the distance between them should not exceed 3 m.

The dimensions of the vents are usually chosen 10x10 cm, the center of the hole should be at a height of 0.3-0.4 m from the ground level (above the thickness of the winter snow cover). It is imperative to provide for the possibility of shutting off the air vents in the winter. In addition, in order to protect against rodents, the air vents are closed with a mesh with a fine mesh.

When if the underground is not too deep(no more than 0.5 m) and the device of air vents is difficult, ventilation holes are made in the floor itself - usually in the corners... These openings are covered with decorative grilles and must always be open.

How to properly lay the floors

Before laying the floorboards, the insulation is covered with a windproof cloth. The choice of the board depends on what kind of surface the finished floor will be. If it is conceived natural, you will need a tongue-and-groove floorboard (with a lock); if linoleum or laminate flooring is going to be laid, it is quite possible to do with an ordinary edged board. BUT IN ANY CASE THE WOOD SHOULD BE WELL DRY!

We attach the grooved board to the logs

The first board is placed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, and not close to it, with a spike against the wall. The next boards are pressed against the previous ones using some kind of stop (clamps, for example) and a pair of wooden wedges. Boards, especially if they are thicker than 25 mm, are nailed - screws in this case are not suitable, they do not attract the board to the upper surface of the log badly. The specified gap of 1-1.5 cm must be maintained around the entire perimeter of the room. The existing joints of the ends of the floorboards must be staggered.

Final finishing of the laid floor

After the flooring has been laid, the floor is ready for finishing, which consists in its sanding (scraping) and coating with paint or varnish... It is almost impossible to do this manually - you should use an electric jointer or grinder. After this very dusty procedure, it is recommended that all "opened" to treat cracks and gaps between the boards with wood putty made on the basis of drying oil. The last operation before painting is fixing the plinth around the perimeter of the room.

The polished surface is painted or varnished, for example - yacht; modern paints and varnishes allow you to imitate almost any type of wood or surface of the material. Usually, at least two layers of coating are applied, a paint roller and a good respirator are used for work. If you want to get a non-glossy, but matte floor surface, you can use wax or oil.

Floor arrangement schemes on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bathhouse

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• based on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on logs;
• with support on the walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options would be better and easier?

In houses without a basement, ground flooring is a popular solution for all rooms on the ground floor. Ground floors are cheap, simple and easy to perform; it is also beneficial to arrange in a basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. A simple design, the use of modern materials, the placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), make such floors comfortable and attractive in value.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the floor insulation on the ground may be less than that of the floor above the ventilated underground.

It is better to refuse from the floor on the ground if it is required to backfill with soil to a too high height, more than 0.6-1 m... In this case, the costs of backfilling and compaction of the soil may be too high.

The floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on a pile or columnar foundation with a grillage, which is located above the ground.

Three schematic diagrams of flooring on the ground

In the first option concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig. 1.

After the concrete has hardened, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this version, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be calculated for the standard load of the floors, have the appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as a temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. Such a floor is often referred to as a "suspended floor on the ground".

A suspended floor on the ground has to be done if there is a high risk of soil shrinkage under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of the filled soil is more than 600 mm... The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk over time of significant subsidence of the filled soil.

Second option - this is a floor on a foundation - a slab, when a reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​the building, serves as a support for the walls and a base for the floor, Fig. 2.

The third option provides for the construction of a monolithic concrete slab or the laying of wooden logs in the intervals between the load-bearing walls with support on bulk soil.

Here, the slab or floor joists are not connected to the walls. The floor load is fully transferred to the filled soil, Fig. 3.

It is the last option that is correctly called the floor on the ground, which will be our story.

Ground floors should provide:

• thermal insulation of premises from the conditions of energy saving;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against the penetration of soil moisture and gases into the premises - radioactive radon;
• prevent the accumulation of condensate water vapor inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structure.

Backfilling of a soil cushion for a floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion made of non-porous soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the upper soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for the cushion device: sand, fine gravel, sand and gravel mixture, and at a low level of groundwater - sandy loam and loam. It is advantageous to use the soil remaining on the site from the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The cushion soil is carefully compacted in layers (no thicker than 15 cm.) compaction with water pouring of soil. The degree of compaction of the soil will be higher if a mechanical rammer is used.

Do not put large crushed stone, broken brick, pieces of concrete in the pillow. There will still be voids between large fragments.

It is recommended to make the thickness of the pad made of bulk soil in the range of 300-600 mm. It is still not possible to compact the bulk soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can result in too much and uneven floor settlement.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted rubble or expanded clay in the pillow. This underlying capturing layer is made with a thickness of 20 cm.The content of particles with a size of less than 4 mm in this layer there should be no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The upper layer of expanded clay, in addition to protection from gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay 18 cm... in terms of heat saving capacity corresponds to 50 mm... foam. To protect the insulation plates and waterproofing films from pushing through, which in some floor structures are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured over the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Before starting the filling of the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay the water supply and sewerage pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as the pipes of the soil ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay down the cases for future pipe installation.

Floor construction on the ground

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• floor on the ground with concrete screed;
• floor on the ground with dry prefabricated screed;
• floor on the ground on wooden logs.

Concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive in the device, but more reliable and durable than other structures.

Concrete floor on the ground

Ground floors are a multi-layer structure, Fig. 4... Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Lay on a ground pillow material that prevents filtration into the groundmoisture contained in freshly laid concrete (for example, a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.). The film is put on the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips 20 - 30 thick mm cut from insulation boards.
3. Then they arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete of class B7.5-B10 for crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer intended for waterproofing. Radius of adjoining concrete to walls 50-80 mm... The concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective concrete layer of at least 30 mm. For the reinforcement of concrete foundations, it can alsouse steel fiber with a length of 50-80 mm and a diameter of 0.3-1mm... At the time of hardening, the concrete is covered with a film or poured over with water. Read:
4. On hardened concrete floor preparation bonded waterproofing. Or two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen basis are laid on the mastic with the institution of each layer on the wall. Rolls are rolled out and overlapped 10 cm... Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture, and also serves as a protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The floor waterproofing layer must be connected to a similar wall waterproofing layer. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of waterproofing and gas insulation thermal insulation slabs are laid. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Foam plastic is also used, with a minimum density of PSB35 (living quarters) and PSB50 under heavy loads (garage). Polyfoam eventually collapses upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying the foam on the polymer-bitumen coating, lay one layer of polyethylene film with an overlap of sheets 100-150 mm... The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by the heat engineering calculation.
6. Per layer of thermal insulation laying the underlying layer(for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to the moisture contained in the freshly laid concrete of the floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a "warm floor" system (or without a system). When heating floors, it is necessary to provide expansion joints in the screed. Monolithic screed must be at least 60 mm... executed from concrete of class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf / cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The mesh is placed in the lower part of the layer. Read: . For a more thorough leveling of the surface of the concrete screed, especially if the finished floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling mortar is applied on top of the concrete layer from dry mixes of factory production with a thickness of at least 3 cm.
8. On the screed mount the finishing floor.

This is a classic flooring on the ground. On its basis, various design options are possible - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floor on the ground is often made without a layer of concrete preparation... A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a base for gluing roll waterproofing on a paper or fabric base, impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation as a waterproofing, a more durable specially designed polymer membrane is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the ground pad.

The profiled membrane is a high-density polyethylene (HDPE) sheet with projections molded on the surface (usually spherical or frustoconical) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. The material is produced with a density from 400 to 1000 g / m 2 and comes in rolls from 0.5 to 3.0 width m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed in the sandy base, without deforming or shifting during installation.

Fixed in a sandy base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for placing thermal insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes withstands without rupture the movement of workers and machines for transporting concrete mixtures and solutions (excluding caterpillar machines).

The service life of the profiled membrane is over 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand cushion with the spikes down. The membrane spikes will lock into the pad.

Seams between overlapping rolls are carefully glued with mastic.

The spiked surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which makes it possible to lay insulation plates directly on it and concreting the floor screed.

If plates of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joints are used for the installation of a layer of thermal insulation, then such plates can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Backfilling from crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

In this version, a polymer film of waterproofing is laid on top of a layer of insulation.

If the top layer of the soil cushion is poured from expanded clay, then you can refuse the layer of insulation under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with a bulk density of 250-300 kg / m 3 it is enough to make a heat-insulating layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with a bulk density of 400-500 kg / m 3 in order to achieve the same thermal insulation capacity, it will be necessary to lay a layer with a thickness of 45 cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers 15 cm and compacted using a manual or mechanical rammer. The easiest way to tamp is multi-fraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. In wet expanded clay, the thermal insulation properties are reduced. For this reason, it is recommended to arrange a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Expanded clay concrete, large-porous without sandy encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a waterproof cement capsule.

Strong, warm and with low water absorption will be the base for the floor, made of large-pore, sand-free expanded clay concrete.

Floor on the ground with a dry prefabricated screed

In floors on the ground as an upper bearing layer, instead of a concrete screed, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For living quarters of the first floor of a house more simple and cheap option there will be a flooring device on the ground with a dry prefabricated floor screed, Fig. 5.

A floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in damp rooms - bathroom, boiler room.

A floor on the ground with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 - Floor covering - parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Adhesive for parquet and laminate joints.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed made of prefabricated elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.

5 - Glue for screed assembly.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Pipe of communications (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous fiber mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 - Expanding dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Reinforced concrete base of class B15 concrete.

13 - Substrate.

The device for joining the floor to the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Figure 6 are as follows:
1-2. Lacquered parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Parquet adhesive and primer, or standard undercoat.
5. Prefabricated screed made of prefabricated elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.
6. Water-dispersive adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced concrete screed of class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of PSB 35 foam or extruded polystyrene foam, calculated thickness.
12. Substrate.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. Outside wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and itself has certain thermal insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay the insulation with a strip along the outer walls (item 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for the floor without underfloor heating (without underfloor heating).

Floor insulation thickness on the ground

Fig. 7. Necessarily in the floor, along the perimeter of the outer walls, lay the insulation with tape, at least 0.8 wide m. Outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the outer walls, depends rather strongly on the outside air temperature. A cold bridge is formed in this zone. Through the floor, soil and basement, heat leaves the house.

The ground temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The ground is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building rules prescribe it is imperative to insulate the area through which heat escapes. For this, it is recommended to arrange thermal protection at two lines (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate the outside of the basement and foundation of the house to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation in the floor structure around the perimeter of the outer walls. The width of the insulation tape along the outer walls is not less than 0.8 m.(item 11 in fig. 6).

The thickness of the insulation is calculated from the condition that the general indicator of the resistance to heat transfer in the floor - soil - basement section must be no less than the same parameter for the outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the basement insulation plus the floor must be no less than the thickness of the outer wall insulation. For the climatic zone in the Moscow region, the total thickness of foam insulation is not less than 150 mm. For example, vertical insulation on plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the outer walls.

When choosing the size of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that the insulation of the foundation helps to reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its sole.

These are the minimum requirements for floor insulation on the ground. It is clear that the larger the dimensions of the heat-insulating layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Install thermal insulation under the entire floor surface in order to save energy, it is necessary only in the case of underfloor heating in the premises or the construction of an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room is useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat assimilation of the floor surface... Heat assimilation of a floor surface is the property of a floor surface to absorb heat in contact with objects (for example, feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. This insulated floor will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W / (m 2 ° C)... A calculator for calculating this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on logs on a concrete screed

Concrete base slab, class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. on a layer of crushed stone, rammed into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden bars - logs with a cross section minimum, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., it is recommended to lay on a waterproofing layer with a step of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By sliding or sliding the pads, the height of the lag is adjusted. Span between adjacent support points lag no more than 900 mm. A gap of 20-30 width should be left between the joists and the walls. mm.

Lags lie freely without attachment to the base. At the time of installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary ties.

For the device of the subfloor, wood-based panels are usually used - OSB, chipboard, DSP. Thickness of slabs not less than 24 mm. All joints of the slabs must necessarily rest on the logs. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the slabs between adjacent lags.

The subfloor can be made from a grooved floorboard. Such a floor made of quality planks can be used without floor covering. The permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

Insulation can be laid in the space between the lags, if necessary. Mineral wool slabs must be covered with a vapor-permeable film on top, which prevents the penetration of insulation microparticles into the room.

Rolled waterproofing made of bituminous or bitumen-polymer materials pasted in two layers on a concrete underlying layer by melting (for welded roll materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing pasting waterproofing, a longitudinal and transverse overlap of panels of at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underfloor space on the ground along the logs, slots in the baseboards should be provided in the rooms. Holes with an area of ​​20-30 are left in at least two opposite corners of the room cm 2 .

Wooden floor along the ground on logs along the posts

There is another constructive floor scheme - this is wooden floor on the ground on logs, laid on posts, Fig. 5.

Positions in Fig. 5 .:
1-4 - Elements of the finished floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and self-tapping screws for screed assembly.
8 - Wooden log.
9 - Wooden leveling strip.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - The column is brick or concrete.
12 - Base soil.

The device of the floor on the logs along the columns allows you to reduce the height of the ground cushion or completely abandon its construction.

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground below the house. If heaving, then the floor in winter and spring can "spree" under the influence of forces.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this, and the underground part

The construction of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Warming the soil under the house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in a house on a pile foundation can be recommended only for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, the underground part of the foundation is also required to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multilayer walls with insulation outside, a cold bridge is formed through the basement and the supporting part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.

When building a house is started, the question of floors arises first of all, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and hence the health of the residents, will depend on them. The device of floors in a private house can be carried out in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

• Wood has always been considered the most popular and comfortable floor for a home, since wood, unlike concrete, is itself a warm material.
• Concrete floors are more durable than wood, but require good insulation, so they are often combined with wooden floors.
• Screed or floating floors were not so popular with home owners in the past, but recently, many are increasingly turning to this option, since it is easy to install, and it can be done in literally one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features of your device, depending on the design of the house, on the area on which it should be laid, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even on the financial capabilities of homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm, and it was pleasant to walk on it, each of its types requires insulation, therefore it is necessarily included in the plan of general arrangement works.

Wooden floors can be made in different ways, but they are always fixed on logs, which are made from beams laid on a concrete base, support pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is only possible in a room with a small area, for example, a narrow corridor or a small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are subdivided into single-layer and double-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Support pillar floors

The floors on the support pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall coating. The lag system, arranged only on the support pillars, is called "floating".

"Floating" floor on support pillars

The floors according to such a system are arranged as follows:

1. The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house to install brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected, the higher the pillar should be, the greater its width and thickness.
2. At the bottom of the dug holes, crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured, then filled with water and carefully compacted. The better the bottom is rammed, the more reliable the support for the lag system will be, therefore this process must be carried out conscientiously.
3. Red brick pillars are laid on the rammed pillow, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their size should be at least 40 × 40, and preferably 50 × 50 cm.
4. On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded rods are embedded or anchors are installed, on which the floor beams will subsequently be fixed.
5. It should be noted that if a building or room has a small area, then support pillars can be arranged only along the perimeter of the future room, but in this case, massive beams must be laid on them.
6. After the pillars are ready, waterproofing material is laid on their top. Better if it is three to four layers of roofing material.
7. Holes are drilled in the beams through which the fastening pins will pass.
8. Beams from a bar or log are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on pins and set in level, leveling with the help of wooden lining boards.When the base of the floor is exposed, it is better to fix the lining to the bars with the help of nails, and the bars themselves must also be fixed by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the pins are too high, it is cut off with a sander.
9. It is best to cover the surface of the underground with expanded clay, with a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well contain moisture that can come from the ground, and will additionally insulate the floors.
10. In order for the floor arranged in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this option all the conditions are created for this. If it is supposed to immediately lay a floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving a distance of no more than ten centimeters between it and the wooden covering.

floor boards

Rough floor

The sub-floor can be arranged in several ways. The choice of a specific method will depend on the insulation material.

• If slag or expanded clay is used as insulation, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the lower cut of the beams. The gaps between the boards are coated with clay, diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay dries, you can fill in the cells with insulation, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
• If the floors are insulated with mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

• A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and to the lower boards and thin plywood is laid. Insulation is laid on it, which is also closed on top with a vapor barrier, attached to the beams using a stapler and brackets.

• Then logs-bars measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a clear example of installing a subfloor

Wooden floor on the ground

Arrange a wooden floor and on the ground. There is a scheme for this, focusing on which you can draw up a work plan.

• The soil is underground, it is necessary to compact it well, and arrange on it a pillow of sand, gravel or crushed stone of the medium fraction, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, and then compact it again.
• Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing felt, is laid on the tamped pillow. If desired, you can lay a reinforcing mesh under it, for greater strength. The waterproofing should be at least 10 centimeters on the walls.
• On the waterproofing, bricks or concrete blocks are placed on the mortar, which will later become a support for the beams. The supports are placed so that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other (standard width of the insulation).
• The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - it can be foam plastic of 50 ÷ 100 mm or mineral wool.
• Wooden beams are installed on bricks, or better - on concrete blocks, they are leveled, and fixed with a corner.
• Between the laid beams, for greater insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
• On top of the insulation, cash yeah fix the vapor barrier film.
• Then a floorboard is laid, which is fixed with carnations, carefully driven into the side of it.
• The board is laid at a distance one and a half centimeters from the wall to provide ventilation.

Wooden floor on a concrete screed

When installing the floor on concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if it is necessary to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you cannot save on logs - they must be massive enough, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be noted right away that with such a floor device, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the above-described subfloor, otherwise it will be very cold.

• First, a preliminary marking of the location of the lags is made on the concrete pavement. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account the future insulation. Marking is done by beating off the line with color.
• Further, on the broken lines, marks are made at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
• At these points, holes are drilled into which studs are installed with clamps located approximately at the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
• In the beams themselves, at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs mounted into the concrete surface, holes are drilled, and then the beam is put on the studs.
• Then, using a level, the clamps are twisted in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to the ideal horizontal, controlling its level.
• On top of the studs, the nuts are tightened, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
• The next steps are the construction of the subfloor, insulation and flooring of the clean floor.

Fastening the lag directly to the screed

Arrange logs on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself with the right tools.

• Stripes are beaten off on the concrete pavement, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
• Further, with the help of anchoring, the logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. In this case, the bars can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
• Then, it would be nice to lay a thin insulation, for example, polyethylene foam, which can be fixed to the logs with staples.
• Along the wall, all over strips cut from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
• Next, lay on the covered polyethylene insulation plates material or expanded clay of small or medium fraction is filled up.

• From above, it is imperative to close the insulation with a vapor barrier film.

• Next, a floorboard or thick plywood is laid, and a decorative coating can also be laid on top.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor is also arranged in different ways, but, in general, they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete pavement is mainly made in houses with concrete or brick walls, and it is started after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

• If necessary, the top layer of soil is selected in order to arrange a sand cushion in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters. It needs to be tamped well by pouring water.
• The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be tamped. The thickness of its backfill must be at least 10 centimeters.
• Next, arrange a rough screed. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam crumbs to the solution. In addition, in this case, the solution can be mixed not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
• On the finished solidified rough screed, you need to spread the waterproofing, which should be 15-20 centimeters on the walls. For it, you can take roofing material or an ordinary thick plastic film - the main thing is that the material is laid tightly, with gluing overlaps.

• Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing - expanded clay, or extruded high-density polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is chosen at the request of the owner of the house and depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is built.
• A metal reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the insulation, and then a finishing screed is poured into which insulation material can also be added. In order for the screed to be even, and there are no floor height differences in the room, it should be done on exposed construction level of beacons.

• If desired, additional insulation can be made on such a coating. On the finished screed, you can lay wooden floors, lay laminate linoleum or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents you from organizing a "warm floor" system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing difficult in the construction of floors using a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why in recent years it has been used more and more often.

The main thing in its installation is a high-quality homogeneous bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slags or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only easy to use, but also perfectly perform the task of sound insulation and thermal insulation. With a good distribution of bulk material over the area of ​​the room, it almost does not shrink, therefore, with a conscientious performance of the work, the bulk floors will last a long time.

Leveling loose mix

• To keep the floors in shape, and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads from boards are installed.
• On top of the dry screed, slabs of moisture-resistant HWP, plywood or other sheet materials are laid. The most important thing is to set the first plate perfectly evenly - this is done with the help of a level. The next boards to be laid will be aligned with the first. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mixture, but it must be moved very carefully over the surface. The evenness of the stacking of sheets during the entire operation is controlled using a level.
in areas that are subject to the greatest stress, for example, in walkways.
• On gypsum fiber sheets have folds, with the help of which they are connected to each other when laying them on a dry screed.
• The sheets are stacked with an offset of half the sheet, by analogy with brickwork - this will increase the stability of the coating.
• Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to the flooring of another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If the floor is used gypsum fiber sheets, then on the first layer a fold is cut off from them, so that they are tightly adjacent to each other and the bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
• The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
• The laid top layer of sheets is fixed with bottom c using glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They are necessarily twisted under load - for this it is enough just to stand on the top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
• It is not recommended to join the sheets exactly along the line of the doorways - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
sealed with a waterproofing material such as a sealant.
• If such floors are arranged in a room where the humidity is high, the entire surface of the floor is treated with a coating waterproofing before laying the decorative coating.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed is mounted quite easily, if you approach the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate- in terms of the timing of work, such technology under any circumstances is many times superior to any other.

Natural building materials are considered quite relevant in use. In this regard, wooden floors in a private house, being an environmentally friendly product, are used in many country buildings.

They are quite popular, since the installation is quite simple and reliable. You can do the work without the services of specialists with your own hands. True, this will take a lot of effort and time. In addition, you will have to carefully study the nuances of the technology of their flooring.

Option selection

Sooner or later, such a question arises before every owner planning to reconstruct or build his house from scratch.

First, it is necessary to decide on how the floor will be installed in a private house.

At the moment, the following options for flooring wooden floors are most popular:

1. Located on logs (cuttings) on the ground.
2. Installed on brick (concrete) pedestals.
3. Cement screed flooring.

The advantage that a wooden floor in a private house has over a concrete analogue is the environmental friendliness of the material and good thermal insulation performance. The only drawback is the need for well-executed waterproofing. If this is not done, even the most reliable larch or beech floor will eventually need to be replaced.

Of all the known methods of flooring, the concrete base is considered to be the most durable. But the material is very cold, so a wooden covering must be laid on top of it.

Construction and wood

Choose wood for flawless flooring

As an example, we consider the system of laying wooden floors in a private house located on the ground floor. For this situation, the coating is laid on the ground and consists of the following elements:

• lags (overshoots);
• rough floors;
• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• clean floors;
• finishing floor covering.

The structure is located on support pillars or beams made of cement mortar or bricks. Under the floor there is a subfloor in which communications can be placed, as well as use this free space for storing canned goods, vegetables or other unnecessary things.

If the underground has been thought out in advance, and the foundation was well insulated during its installation, the arrangement of a full-fledged basement floor is allowed.

This method of floor installation is considered the most common, since thanks to the subfloor, the space is well ventilated, the wood is always dry, and an optimal microclimate is created on the ground floor. Installation of a wooden floor directly on the ground is allowed only if the groundwater level has been taken into account.

Failure to comply with these requirements can lead to the formation of mold and mildew in the subfield. At the same time, special attention must be paid to waterproofing.

Choice of materials

Choose resinous wood for lag

Wooden floors in a private house are constantly exposed to heavy loads, therefore, for their installation, it is recommended to use only solid wood species, and it is also necessary to choose materials that are suitable for the following characteristics:

1. The lifespan of the floors will depend on what percentage of moisture the fiber has. Otherwise, you will have to thoroughly dry the boards and treat them with special compounds that prevent the formation of mold.
2. It is recommended to install the floor in the house only from boards and beams that do not have cracks and chips. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the need to repair the structure in a short period.
3. Treatment with fire-fighting compounds and antiseptics is required in any case.
4. Planks of oak, ash and beech have the greatest strength. The disadvantage of materials made from these types of wood is that they are too fragile and expensive. Therefore, the most common lumber is made of coniferous species: pine, spruce, larch, cedar.

Underground

Don't forget the vents

When laying floors with your own hands, be sure to think about the fact that the subfloor under them has ventilation holes. If this is not done, the service life of the flooring will be significantly reduced.

If windy and snowy winters occur in the region in which the house is located, a ventilation pipe with a visor is installed as a barrier against blowing out the underground space.

To improve the quality of ventilation, you can make an additional window fan. A small lattice with a cell more than 10 mm in size will serve as a barrier to entry of mice and rats.

Posts or beams

The device of floors in a private house begins with the installation of base posts. In most cases, these are brick lined or poured concrete structures. As an option, wood of durable species is used: oak, beech, ash, but their service life rarely exceeds 10 years. For more information about the device of floors in a house made of timber, see this video:

First you need to choose the location of the columns. To do this, you need to use a tape measure and lacing. The rope runs between the walls in the center of the room. With an interval of 80 - 100 cm from each other, notes are made in the ground. These are the locations of the pillars. Then you can be guided by the following rule: the distance from the posts depends on the thickness of the lag or cut. The larger the beam, the greater the distance you can make.

To determine the exact distance between the posts, it is recommended to use the table.

After the installation sites are determined, you can proceed with the installation of the pillars. The best option would be to pour separate foundations under them, going 50 - 100 cm deep.

Their height should exceed the ground level by 5-10 cm, after which a layer of waterproofing is laid and the main element is mounted. The average width depends on the height of the structure and ranges from 40 to 50 cm.

To avoid leveling the floor and facilitate your work, you need to take care of the correct horizontal line even at the stage of preparing the base for the posts and monitor its observance throughout the entire installation process.

Installation of logs (cuttings)

Water protection is placed under the wooden logs

Before making wooden floors in a private house, you need to lay a wooden beam on pillars aligned at the same height, on which the floorboards will be laid in the future. It is necessary to place a waterproofing on the stone surface; for this, the use of roofing material is allowed.

A bar is laid on top, which must be fixed on the base of the pillars. To do this, you can use metal plates or corners, which are attached with anchors, screws or nails. After the cuts are laid and secured, they need to be treated with an antiseptic.

If the horizontal has not been observed, the plane is leveled by placing wooden wedges under the timber.

Installation of floorboards

Depending on the chosen method of how the flooring in a private house will be, the procedure for further work may differ significantly. The simplest is the installation of a single floor.

It will take much more time and consumables to make a double wooden floor with insulation placed inside.

Single

After the cuts are fixed, grooved boards with a thickness of 4 - 5 cm are laid on them. Fixation to the timber is carried out using self-tapping screws or nails. After completing the installation, it is allowed to lay the flooring or paint the erected floor.

A predominantly single floor is installed for a summer cottage, which is used only in warm weather.

Double insulated

If the floor is to be installed for a house where you will be living permanently, it is recommended to use a double floor with an intermediate position of thermal insulation. Such technology will require more time and money, but the result will not keep you waiting long. The floor will be much warmer, and living in the house will be more comfortable. For more information on installing a wooden floor, see this video:

The installation procedure is as follows:

When installing rough wooden floors in a private house, you need to leave a gap of 2 - 3 cm from the edge board to the wall. It is needed for the temperature shift of the wood and will help to avoid possible swelling of the surface.

Wood is considered a natural and environmentally friendly material that requires compulsory care. Despite the superficial complexity of flooring for a private house, even a person who does not have sufficient multifaceted experience in this area can do this work.