Repair Design Furniture

Do-it-yourself corner crane beam. How to make a crane with your own hands? What characteristics should a garage lift have?

Those who are engaged in car repairs cannot do with one jack. A crane is needed to pull the engine out. Of course, such an option http://sdm-group.com.ua/catalog/mostoviekrani is not needed in the garage, but a smaller and modernized version, and besides, it is also collapsible, is useful to many motorists and not only.

And this is not an industrial product. This crane-beam was made by some craftsmen in their garage with their own hands.


This photo shows the main dimensions

The main materials used were:
For transverse bar, solid-drawn labor with a diameter of 100mm and a length of 4150mm
For rod supports, a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm (cut a piece 1200 mm long into two identical parts
Mounting bolts of the supports to the rod M: 16
Racks are made of square pipes 100x100mm, length 2350mm
The bevels and the base are a corner 100x100mm
The rollers installed on the overhead crane are parts of the lift door drive. They are attached to a 50mm strip of metal and welded to the boom with an overlap and one of the boom supports.

The size of this girder crane was not chosen by chance. This model is designed to work with passenger cars.

The mobility of the structure is provided by ordinary rollers from the storage container welded to the vertical posts.

The disassembled structure of our girder crane takes up very little space.

The lifting mechanism is a conventional worm-type hand winch welded to the vertical post. Its carrying capacity is somewhere around 800kg. Steel cable as a drive. ...

You can also adapt the electric winch if you want, but there is no special need for this.

The above construction is not a dogma. This option was made for specific tasks and material at hand. The engine of any car can be easily pulled out, the Volga is calmly lifted by the hood. On sale, if you search, you can find a similar industrial crane, but its price will be decent. The idea is offered to you, but if you want to realize it is your business.

Any of the users of the site will agree with the statement that one of the most needed during construction is a crane. The steel hero becomes an indispensable assistant when it becomes necessary to lift a large load.

The lifting mechanism is usually associated with a huge structure tens of meters high. However, in private housing construction, when compact mechanisms come to the fore for construction, one needs an option with an arrow length not exceeding 5-7 meters.

But renting it is not a cheap pleasure, especially if the construction site takes more than one month.

In this case, there is only one way out - roll up your sleeves and build a homemade mini-crane with your own hands. And our members of the forum will help you with this!

How to make a homemade crane

Saving on your own health and trying to manually lift a heavy load, especially if the construction of a house is being carried out independently and without the involvement of hired labor, are not brought to any good. We have already told our readers,. Now we are making a crane with our own hands for building a house called " mini-pioneer ".

"Pioneer" is a movable collapsible structure, with the help of which the load is lifted to a given height. So homemade the crane can be used for digging foundations and construction and installation work for the construction of houses.

The basis of the mechanism is a supporting running frame, installed permanently or on a mobile chassis. The rotating part of the crane is mounted on the frame. The boom can be rotated manually or electrically. The construction of the crane itself is based on a modular principle and can be disassembled into several parts for the convenience of moving the mechanism from one construction site to another.

The stability of the structure is ensured thanks to the counterweight and steel ropes (turnbuckles), and the lifting of the load is carried out using a winch and a block.

An interesting experience of our member of the forum, who decided to independently build a mini "Pioneer". He needed this building mechanism for the construction of a private house from a bar.

Voldemore:

- I practically single-handedly build a house from a six-meter beam. It is impossible to lift and carry it alone. That is why I decided to assemble the mechanism in order to take the timber from the pile, put it on the sawing site and lift it onto the base.

As the height of the building increases, our member of the forum plans to put a crane on the floor beams of the house.

The member of the forum collected the frame from a corner 63x63x5 mm. An arrow 5 meters long - from a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. To strengthen the structure, two corners 30x30x3 mm were used. Voldemore includes a further extension of the boom by another 2 meters.

Voldemore:

- The lifting capacity of the mechanism is about 150 kg, but the structure can lift more weight, and in order to achieve this, it is necessary to increase the frequency of the chain hoists.

Translated from Greek, Polyspaston means "pulled by several ropes." A polyspast is a construction device for lifting a load. It consists of several blocks, interconnected by a rope or cable, which bends around the blocks in a circle. Polyspast allows you to lift a load with less effort than the weight of the load.

The simplest pulley block allows you to get a three-fourfold gain in strength, one should not forget that friction losses are inevitable in this system. Even in the best block models, they reach 10%. And the more you gain in strength, the more the distance the vehicle can move the load decreases.

Voldemore:

- It took me a week to make all the components and mechanisms. I spent two more days assembling and fine-tuning the mechanism. The slewing drive and boom hoist drive is a six-fold manual chain hoist. The hoist drive is also a manual double chain hoist.

Voldemore notes that it would be much more convenient to control the mechanism with electric drives - to lift the load from the remote control on a long cord, as is done in industrial models. But in this case, the complexity of manufacturing all mechanisms increases significantly, which will lead to an increase in the cost of the structure and an increase in the time for manufacturing the crane.

The details of the manufacture of the device are interesting.

Voldemore:

- As a turntable, I took two faceplates that I found at work. Basically, I assembled the mechanism from what was at hand. Instead of an axis, I welded a 30 mm bolt. I did not take a bolt made of high-strength steel, since such bolts are welded worse, do not stretch or bend, but immediately burst if their strength is exceeded.

All units of the device are lubricated with lithol.


To reduce the weight of the counterweight, the outriggers are 2 meters long. When self-manufacturing and calculating the nodes of such a device, one point should be taken into account. The fact is that with a rotary faceplate radius of 200 mm and a distance of 2 meters to a counterweight weighing 100 kg, a tensile load of 1 ton acts on the central bolt. And this is without taking into account the weight of the boom and the load being lifted!

It is also important to check the stability of the device.

Voldemore:

- To begin with, let's imagine that our crane is a single beam that rests on one support, and this support should be the smallest distance from the axis of rotation. Three forces act on the beam: the weight of the load, the weight of the counterweight, and the weight of the mechanism. In order not to take into account the weight of the boom, I have underestimated the weight of the crane by 50 kg. The calculation is approximate and simple, but better with it than without it at all.

Boom hoist drum Voldemore made from a tube with a diameter of 100 mm.

Voldemore:

There is a nuance here - the drum should not be placed close to the blocks. It needs to be slightly shifted along the axis towards the first block so that the second layer of the cable winds up evenly.

The forum user made the blocks from three washers: two large and one small. All blocks are without bearings. It is important to ensure that the blocks bend around the rope well. That is, either the rope must be flexible, or the pulleys must be of large diameter. Otherwise, when the boom is raised without load, the cables may fly out of the blocks.

Voldemore:

- I have a rope with a diameter of 12 mm, but it is very thick - there was simply no other. If I lengthen the boom, I will put in a more flexible cable with a diameter of 5 mm, because its working load is 150 kg, and its breaking load is 850 kg.

When designing block systems, it is important to understand how a chain hoist works and is calculated. Let's take a look at the example of a mini-pioneer.

Voldemore:

- The principle of operation of a chain hoist is similar to that of a gearbox - you gain in strength, but you lose in the length of the rope and, consequently, in the speed of lifting the load.

In the gearbox, the main characteristic is the gear ratio, and in the pulley block it is the multiplicity, i.e. the ratio of all branches of the cable to those escaping from the drum. If we have 6 pieces of rope, then the pulley block is sixfold.

This means that the pulling load on the drum will be 6 times less than the weight of the load, and the rope itself, if it is designed for 100 kg, then rolled 6 times, will lift 600 kg.


DIY construction mini-cranes

The design came out so successful that many of our users decided to repeat it and even make the crane mobile by placing it on the Gazelle.

Forum user with a nickname plumag offers with the help of a similar mechanism of greater carrying capacity and equipped with electric drives, to put concrete pillars. And in order to be able to transport such an individual crane on public roads, make the structure collapsible and partially and completely mount it in the body already at the site of the proposed work. This will allow to recoup all the costs associated with the manufacture of the device in a short time.

At FORUMHOUSE you can learn everything about independent, as well as get acquainted with the mini-pioneer. The portal discusses everything you need to know to make a faucet From a concrete mixer to a pipe bender. Topics of members of the forum about making useful pets that will help you build.

Our video will tell you what tools are needed to equip a carpentry workshop. See how to do A yourself in this tool, which will simplify the work on your site near the country house.

Homemade lifting devices are now becoming more and more popular. During construction, when working in a garage, you often have to move heavy loads. In construction, manual transportation takes considerable time and it is not always possible to install ramps or scaffolding. In any case, it is much easier and more efficient to use lifts.

Crane diagram

The same applies to the automotive theme, a garage with a lift is much more convenient to operate. The simplest lifts are an ordinary beam, rigidly fixed at one end, and a movable block is installed at the other end. A rope is thrown over the block, with the help of which the weights are tightened by hand.

Such a homemade lift is quite simple to manufacture, but from a practical point of view, it is very inconvenient. Firstly, the load is still lifted manually, and secondly, dismantling and installing a beam from one place to another takes even more time than simply dragging weights. Similar mechanisms are used in log houses.

Materials and tools:

  • pole supports;
  • wooden top beam;
  • metal guide;
  • wheel pulley;
  • bearings;
  • chain hoist;
  • sprains;
  • pulley;
  • welding machine.

If the question of how to make a log lift yourself makes you think, then here is a fairly simple solution. On 2 vertically dug pillars, an upper beam is installed with a length slightly longer than the length of the future structure. This clearance makes it possible to drag logs directly from the stack to the installation site.

The wooden beam must be provided from above with a metal guide along which the mechanism will move. Further, the technology is simple, a wheel-pulley on a bearing is connected to an L-shaped metal part, to the other end of which a hand chain hoist with a carrying capacity of at least 750 kg is attached. This minimum is explained by the fact that the weight of a thirty-centimeter-wide log house ranges from 270 to 400 kg, depending on the moisture content of the wood.

The pillars for such a structure must be at least 20 cm in diameter, and the beam, based on the load, is a bar of at least 15X20 cm in cross section.

The guide is a piece of reinforcement, to which, at equal distances, no more than half a meter, the tips of the nails are welded. They will attach the guide to the wooden beam.

The beam is fixed a couple of tens of cm away from the posts in order to avoid coupling the transport device and the post.

To strengthen the structure, spacers are installed on the nailed beam. If the height of the pillars is 4-5 m, then for stability they must be dug into the ground by 1 m and spacers must be installed on the side to which the beam is shifted.

The pulley, preferably with sides, is put on the guide and the lift is ready for operation.

Homemade crane

For individual construction, you cannot do without a crane, which can also be made, if necessary, with your own hands.

A home-made crane will help to mount ceilings, foundations and all other structural elements, due to its ability to fall below the zero mark by 2.5 m and rise to a height of about 2 m.

Such a crane allows you to transport cargo over a distance of 3 m. For home construction, the proposed possibilities should be sufficient.

This design does not provide for a slewing mechanism, since the crane is not designed for loads of more than 300 kg and is easily rotated manually along with the entire structure.

In order to make a crane with your own hands, you will need:

  • 4 telescopic tubes with an outer diameter of 140 mm,
  • three-meter I-beam,
  • metal corners for supporting structures,
  • telpher or hand winch.

Homemade crane

Telescopic pipes are welded in pairs to the ends of beams, consisting of two adjoining corners 1.5 and 0.5 m long, thus, 2 U-shaped structures are obtained, which are welded with a beam along the base for stability and reinforced with triangular spacers.

Additional support angles are welded to the smaller frame, which will serve as the rear support of the crane, to prevent the future lifting device from tipping over.

An I-beam is welded in the center of the lower part of the horizontal beams so that the smaller frame is on the edge of the I-beam, and the larger one is a little further 1.5 m from the smaller one.

A winch is attached to the lower part of the I-beam, which will be a horizontal mobile device, while a telescopic system will help to move loads in a vertical direction.

Lift in the garage

How to make a homemade garage lift? Car enthusiasts often resort to self-repairing a vehicle, and removing a car engine by hand is not an easy task.

For such purposes, it is simply necessary to have a garage lift, even if it is made by hand. The collapsible beam crane system does not take up much space, and is made from:

  • cross tube,
  • square racks on triangular supports equipped with casters,
  • manual winch.

The pipe is inserted into fasteners welded to the top of the uprights and secured with bolts. The winch is welded to the vertical post, and 2 rollers are welded to the beam, along which the cable from the winch moves. The winch in the garage is also easy to do with your own hands.

After using the homemade crane, the beam is disassembled into 2 supports and a crossbeam, which are placed in any corner of the garage. The advantage of such a crane-beam is that its creation does not require special skills and materials, everything can be found at hand.

In addition, the crane beam will allow you to lift and transport loads up to 800 kg within the garage.

Homemade garage winch. The design of the winch assumes the presence of a drum with a cable, which is attached to the shaft to a frame made of square pipes. A large sprocket is attached to the outer edge of the drum, and a small one on a chain drive is attached to an electric drive. If the winch is planned to be manual, then a handle is attached to the shaft on which the drum is fixed.

Car lift in the garage. To fix a car in the garage, a pit or overpass should be provided, but it is easier to organize a lift. Although this is a rather risky undertaking, equipping a lift in the garage with your own hands makes a practical and economic sense.

The simplest car lift is the already described overhead crane with a winch, in which case, after lifting to the required height, the car is placed on platforms. But there is a risk of the rope breaking, so there is another garage lift.

To make a scissor lift you will need:

  • channel bars from which the platform and base are made,

and for the manufacture of scissors are suitable:

  • I-beams,
  • hydraulic cylinder,
  • bushings,
  • pump,
  • distributor for two sections.

The beams are held together by bushings on the scissor principle, and a hydraulic cylinder with a handle helps to raise the scissors to the desired height.

Car owners who independently repair their "iron horse" periodically ask themselves the question: how to make a crane beam with their own hands? It is a practical and relatively inexpensive lifting device that greatly simplifies difficult and time-consuming work, such as removing the engine. In addition, lifting equipment is suitable for low-rise construction: lifting bricks, mortar and other building materials to a low height.

You can make such a mechanism in the garage yourself. For this, almost any metal is suitable, which often lies unattended on the territory of garage cooperatives and construction sites. Self-made cranes can be gantry, with a pivoting boom structure, or suspended, moving along a channel in a horizontal plane.

Features of factory-made crane beams

  • moving along the guide beam in a given direction;
  • capture and lifting of cargo;
  • short-term fixation in the raised position or unloading at the desired point;
  • return to the starting position, if necessary, repetition of the working cycle.

By their design features, girder cranes are divided into two categories: supporting and suspended. These groups differ in the arrangement of the path of movement. Support modifications move along crane tracks equipped with a special rail. Loading and unloading operations are controlled manually or by means of an installed electric drive.

Suspended models are fixed to ceilings. The function of guides here is performed by an I-channel. Such designs are more versatile in application, and help to more rationally use the interior space of the room. It should be clarified that if the crane equipment is supposed to be installed inside the garage box, it is better to stay with the suspended version.

To simplify the installation process, a manual drive can be used. This variation does not have high performance, but for the needs of motorists, more is not required. If you have experience in installing electrical equipment, you can supply a motor for the hoist.

Main characteristics

When making a home-made crane beam, it is better to focus on the technical parameters of factory-made models. These characteristics were calculated by qualified specialists, therefore they are optimal for multipurpose applications.

The characteristics of various modifications may differ, but in general, it looks like this:

  • Work zone. The span length varies between 3-28.5 meters. It is not worth focusing on this indicator: not every garage has such an area, therefore the length of the crane run is selected based on the actual size of the room.
  • Lift height. Industrial lifts lift loads to a height of 6-18 meters. For private use, you can stay at the minimum option. For example, if we are talking about a simple hoist for a tractor or a car, a lifting height of 1.5 meters is sufficient.
  • Voltage. Electrical equipment operates on a three-phase 380V network. If you intend to install a hand-operated lifting device, this parameter is irrelevant.
  • Operating temperature range. Factory models work correctly at temperatures of -20 / + 40 degrees. This parameter must be taken into account when choosing accessories.

Materials and tools

To make a homemade crane beam, you will need the following building materials:

  1. Support rods - made of a round pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.
  2. Cross bar - all-metal pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm.
  3. Racks - square section pipe 100 * 100 mm.
  4. Reinforcement bevels for headrail and base - angle steel.
  5. Fasteners - M16 bolt-nut set.
  6. Lifting mechanism - hand hoist or telpher.

To assemble the structure you will need:

  • spanners;
  • Bulgarian;
  • welding machine.

Before starting work, it is recommended to make a drawing of the future crane beam indicating the dimensions of the constituent elements. In addition, it makes sense to calculate in advance the optimal load capacity so that the hoist can cope with the assigned tasks.

Suspended crane beam

This design is optimal for a garage, but there are a number of nuances. First, overhead lifts require rails, which are usually laid during the construction phase. Secondly, the base must be strong and withstand loads of at least 250 kilograms.

Of course, you can equip guides for the movement of the hoist yourself. To do this, you need to make mortgages in the wall, to which you can fix an I-beam or a square-section pipe. The length of the crane run is calculated based on individual needs. In general, to remove the engine, there is enough free wheeling of 1.5-2 meters. It is better to make a guide from a single piece of pipe. If you have to weld on the missing part, it is recommended to carefully control the quality of the seam so that the structure does not collapse under load.

Having dealt with the guide, we proceed to the manufacture of the carriage. This element can be welded from a steel corner by fastening the posts with studs. Steel strips and corner pieces can be used here. The dimensions are arbitrary, the main thing is that the width of the carriage matches the parameters of the guide.

The structure will require 8 bearings: 4 to move the carriage (wheels) and 4 to bypass rollers, which will perform a supporting function. For the undercarriage, it is better to use larger diameter bearings. Considering the importance of the element and the expected load, it is not worth saving on quality. For bypass rollers, any widespread demand, for example, Chinese factory-made rollers, will do.

Support bearings are installed on studs of a suitable diameter (2 for each), which, in turn, are inserted into the holes of the side strips and fixed with nuts. The bypass sleeves are welded to the bottom of the structure. They are needed in order to exclude the skew of the crane beam.

Additional metal strips are welded to the side edges, going down. Four holes are drilled here: 2 on each side. A supporting pin is inserted into the lower part, onto which the hoist is actually suspended. A safety pin is installed in the upper grooves to prevent deformation of the carriage under load.

It remains to put the crane trolley on the rail, tighten the structural elements with bolts.

Step-by-step manufacturing scheme

Support beam fastening

Trolley with support bearings

Jib crane with mounted carriage

Supporting crane beam

It is a full-swing design with boom and hoist. In the garage, such a crane-beam can only be used as a corner crane, however, this option has a competitive advantage. The design is collapsible and portable, therefore it is quite suitable for construction and other economic purposes. As in the previous case, most of the parts can be found in the garage, but some of the items will have to be purchased. In any case, a do-it-yourself jib crane will be much cheaper than purchasing a factory model.

First, a rotary mechanism is assembled, consisting of two bearings, a housing and a base. Immediately it is necessary to clarify that the body and the lower platform are made on a lathe, so they will probably have to be ordered. Bearings are selected individually, taking into account the size of the housing part and the diameter of the sleeve on which they will fit. The structure is tightened with bolts, for which holes of a given diameter with an internal thread are drilled in the body.

Now we turn to the manufacture of support legs. This will require a piece of pipe and four pieces of a channel. The upper edge of the pipe is leveled with a grinder and a file: a rotary mechanism is welded to this part, therefore it is important not to skew. The channel is cut so that the height is at the level of the person's waist.

This is to ensure that the rotation of the hoist handle is straightforward. The support legs are cut in level so that the crane beam does not fall over during operation. In addition to the lower part of the channel, a cross made of any rigid profile is fixed. It is better to use a threaded connection here to simplify the transportation process.

The next structural element is the platform of the crane equipment. The best option would be an I-beam, bolted to the turntable. Alternatively, a channel or wooden beam 150 * 200 mm is suitable. Here you need to focus on balance so that the crane does not fall over and does not outweigh the platform when lifting the load. To do this, a counterweight made of scrap metal or brick is suspended in the opposite boom of the platform. In order for the element to organically fit into the overall structure, it is better to weld a small box, inside which the counterweight will be placed.

A winch and boom are placed on the platform. The lifting capacity of the winch is selected individually. As practice shows, for household needs, a value of 500-1,000 kilograms is sufficient. When buying, it will not be superfluous to pay attention to the presence of a retainer brake.

The arrow is assembled from three elements:

  1. Shaft mountings.
  2. Bars.
  3. The tip where the pulley is installed.

The body of the fastener can be welded from pieces of the channel by passing any metal "round timber" with a diameter of 20-30 mm through the central part. The shaft is “locked” from the sides with bearings of a suitable size to increase the wear resistance of rubbing parts and to simplify lifting / lowering of the boom. The boom body is made of a wooden beam, which is clamped by a channel. A pulley block is placed in the upper part, through which the winch cable is passed.

Using a garage as a repair shop often requires lifting heavy building materials and auto parts. Having built a beam crane with your own hands, you can move large items on an automated mechanism.

Required tools and materials

For self-assembly of the structure, you must first prepare a set of tools and materials. In particular, you will need:

  • square pipes for racks;
  • seamless pipe with a cross section of 100 mm for a cross bar;
  • pipes with a cross section of 110 mm for rod supports;
  • metal corners 100x100 mm;
  • fixing bolts M16;
  • telpher;
  • welding machine.

Calculations

In order for the structure to correspond to the size of the room and function in the required working space, it is important to carry out calculations before performing installation work. You can prepare a drawing indicating the dimensions of all components yourself or use a special calculator. The standard parameters in the calculations are as follows:

  • height not exceeding 2.5 m for repairing cars and carrying out work requiring lifting and moving heavy objects;
  • the lifting capacity depends on the type of hoist used and, as a rule, is 800-1000 kg;
  • width of the structure - from 4 m;
  • rack sizes - 120 cm.

If it becomes necessary to work with larger equipment, the lifting mechanism can be additionally equipped with vertical A-shaped posts. Also, if desired, it is allowed to make the structure easily disassembled, which is important in conditions of limited space or in case of a rare need to lift loads.

Garage crane assembly

When assembling a lifting garage crane with your own hands, you must sequentially perform a series of actions, according to the instructions. Adhering to the installation rules, it will be possible to make a structure that will regularly serve for many years. The key steps in assembling homemade equipment are preparing the frame and securing the crane beam for lifting, holding and moving loads.

How to make the frame-basis of the crane lifting mechanism

The main load falls on the equipment racks, therefore, to securely fix the structure, it is required to build a strong frame. The erection of an element involves the following actions:

  1. Legs are made from metal corners using a welding machine for a crane and welded at an angle of 45 degrees on each side of a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm. Metal triangles are welded to the posts to create spacers.
  2. To ensure the movement of the structure to the horizontal base, rollers are welded on both sides of the racks. It is important to use casters designed for metal containers as they are capable of supporting a lot of weight.
  3. A pipe is placed on top of the structure, along which the lifting mechanism moves. The length of the pipe depends on the size of the garage and your own design requirements.
  4. The roller for the movement of the cable is fixed on the I-beam, which are pre-welded in the center of the pipe.
  5. For additional stability of the frame, a square pipe is welded to the beam. It is positioned on top of the beam in such a way that there is a 20 cm protrusion on each side.
  6. The cross tube is inserted into a square tube and through-holes are made for the retainers on both sides. Mounting bolts are inserted into the holes and tightened.

Installation of the lifting mechanism

The main element of the crane is the lifting mechanism, which can be manual or automatic. The tefler consists of a cable and a winch mounted on the side of the rack. The cable moves due to the rotation of the rollers. Additional fixing of the elements is not required, it is enough to fix the lift on the rack.

A self-made crane can be equipped with lifting equipment that is used in elevators. Such mechanisms are highly reliable and able to withstand massive objects.

To simplify the performance of repair work, it is allowed to connect an electric drive to the lifting element. For the automation of the structure, a 300-500 W motor is suitable. The electric drive is mounted to the base of the girder crane.

The structure, equipped with an electric drive, is widely used in large-scale repairs of a garage and disassembling a car for parts when a complex of works is required. According to the principle of operation, manual and automated cranes do not have significant differences.