How to make a water-heated floor with your own hands. Do-it-yourself warm water floor: features and nuances. How to make a warm floor with your own hands, the necessary materials and tools Where to install a warm floor

The issue of underfloor heating always arises when the main heating system cannot cope with heating the room. You insulated the balcony, added a room for the bathroom to the main building, insulated the veranda or hallway in a private house. And I want to immediately feel the warmth and comfort of my home with my feet at the entrance. Installed radiators heat the air rushing to the ceiling. And the floor remains cold.

A large assortment of materials for the manufacture of underfloor heating is presented on the Russian market. They are divided into two types according to the heating method: electric and water. When choosing a water heat carrier for heating, I was guided by the following: there is already a heating system in the room, the danger of electric shock is excluded, an acceptable price.

Having water heating, I decided to install underfloor heating in the attached bathroom. I read a huge amount of literature, opted for floors with a water circuit for heating. The high heat capacity of water makes it possible to transfer heat more efficiently and favorably distinguishes it from other heat carriers.

He began the work with the preparation of the surface of the earthen floor. A thin layer of gravel was poured with a cement-sand screed 5-8 cm thick, leveling the floor in the horizon. An insulating strip is laid on the floor. It insulates the heating circuit from the floor and directs heat upward due to its reflective properties.

For the insulating gasket, a 6 mm thick material covered with a foil layer was selected. The use of a foil layer for heat reflection is strictly necessary.

Flexible metal-plastic pipes with a diameter of 16 mm are laid on top of the insulating layer. We lay the pipes with a snake in increments of 20-30 cm, fasten them with clips. You can use any fastener you are familiar with.

Nowadays, many residents of private houses install a hot water floor for the main or additional heating. It has a lot of advantages: it increases comfort, heats the room evenly, does not require additional energy consumption (since it works from one boiler with radiators). The instructions in our article will allow you to install water underfloor heating without even having experience. However, before that, it is worth studying all the nuances.

Best of all, a warm water floor system is combined with laying under and tiles.

• First, both materials are strong and durable.
• Secondly, they do not emit harmful substances when heated.
• And thirdly, the heating perfectly complements the tile (the material itself is cold), and you can walk on it even barefoot due to its high heat capacity.

Of course, a warm floor can be made under linoleum, PVC tiles and even carpet, if there is a special mark.

But, for example, it makes no sense to heat the carpet, and the surface temperature cannot be exceeded above 31 ° C, according to SNiP 41-01-2003. Otherwise, it will provoke the release of harmful substances.

Installation in an apartment

Probably, many tenants had the idea to independently connect "for free" water heated floors to the central heating system or hot water supply. And some even do so, but in most cases it is prohibited by local law.

For example, in Moscow, the government decree No. 73-PP of February 8, 2005 is in force, in Appendix No. 2 it is clearly written about the prohibition of the re-equipment of public water supply systems for floor heating.

If you break the rules, at best, you can get a fine the first time you visit the plumbers. And at worst - the risk of leaving neighbors without heating.

In some regions, the ban does not apply, but the connection requires an examination so as not to disrupt the operation of the system.

In general, from a technical point of view, such options are possible, but only when a separate pumping and mixing unit is connected and the pressure in the system at the outlet is maintained.

Note! If there is a jet pump (elevator) in an apartment building, then metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes cannot be used.

Floor installation methods

There are several ways to arrange a warm water floor.

• The most popular and reliable of them is the concrete screed. Unlike electric types, pipes of 16 mm cannot be hidden in tile glue, and it will not work. Therefore, a screed is poured at least 3 cm above the pipes.
• The second way is to lay pipes in cut-out polystyrene foam grooves. The grooves are made by hand, pipes are laid inside, then the screed is poured.
• The next option is often used in houses with a wooden floor, although it requires a lot of labor - it is laying in wooden grooves. To do this, boards are stuffed onto the floor, which create a gutter of the desired shape for laying.

Types of pipes used

Three types of pipes are suitable for a warm water floor.

• Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene (PEX-EVOH-PEX) are inconvenient to work, because it is difficult to give them the desired shape (when heated, they straighten). But they are not afraid of liquid freezing and are maintainable.
• Reinforced-plastic pipes are the best option: low price, ease of installation, keep their shape stably.
• Copper pipes are expensive; when used in a screed, they must be covered with a protective layer to prevent alkaline attack.

Calculation of a warm water floor

Before installing and purchasing materials, it is imperative to calculate the warm floor. To do this, draw a diagram with contours, which will then come in handy during repair work in order to know the position of the pipes.

• If you are sure that there will always be furniture or plumbing in a certain place, pipes are not laid in this place.
• The length of the loop with a diameter of 16 mm should not exceed 100 m (maximum for 20 mm will be 120 m), otherwise the pressure in the system will be bad. Thus, each circuit occupies approximately no more than 15 square meters. m.
• The difference between the length of several contours should be small (less than 15 m), that is, they should all be of equal length. Large rooms, respectively, are divided into several circuits.
• The optimal pipe spacing is 15 cm when using good thermal insulation. If in winter there are often frosts below -20, then the step is reduced to 10 cm (only possible at the outer walls). And in the north, you can't do without additional radiators.
• With a laying step of 15 cm, the consumption of pipes is approximately 6.7 m for each square of the room, when laying every 10 cm - 10 m.

The graph shows the dependence of the flux density on the average temperature of the coolant. Dotted lines indicate pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, and solid lines - 16 mm.

The graph shows data that is valid only when using a 7 cm thick cement-sand screed, covered with tiles. If the thickness of the screed is increased, for example, by 1 cm, then the heat flow density decreases by 5-8%.

• To find the flux density, the sum of the heat loss of the room in watts is divided by the pipe laying area (subtract the indents from the walls).
• The average temperature is calculated as the average value at the inlet to the circuit and at the outlet of the return.

The optimum temperature at the inlet and outlet should not differ by more than 5-10 degrees. The maximum temperature of the coolant should not exceed 55 ° C.

According to the above diagram, only a rough calculation can be performed and the final adjustment can be made using the mixing unit and thermostats. For accurate design, be sure to contact a professional heating engineer.

Floor heating cake

The technology of laying a warm water floor consists of several layers, which are laid in a certain sequence. The total thickness of the cake is 8-14 cm, the load on the floors is up to 300 kg / sq. m.

If the base is a concrete slab:

• waterproofing;
• insulation;
• reinforcing mesh;
• water floor heating pipe;
• screed.

For waterproofing, it is permissible to use ordinary plastic wrap or special materials. The damper tape is made from cut strips of thermal insulation 1-2 cm thick, or they buy a ready-made version with a self-adhesive base.
The choice of insulation depends on several factors: region, base material. For example, for floors on the ground, extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 5 cm (optimally 10) is also used, and if there is a warm basement under the floor of the first floor, then thinner options from 3 cm can be used.

The main purpose of the insulation is to direct the heat upward from the heating and prevent large heat losses.

In case the base is floors on the ground:

• bulk soil 15 cm;
• crushed stone 10 cm;
• sand 5 cm;
• rough screed;
• waterproofing;
• damper tape around the perimeter;
• extruded polystyrene foam not less than 5 cm;
• reinforced screed with heat carriers.

It is important to tamp the preparatory layers for the rough screed carefully in layers. When compacting the base tightly and using extruded polystyrene foam, it will not be necessary to make a rough screed.

Underfloor heating installation

Let's say a good foundation has already been prepared: a flat concrete slab or a backfill layer without strong drops. The differences should not exceed 7 mm when checking with a two-meter rail. If there are irregularities, they can be covered with sand.

Waterproofing

Someone puts waterproofing under the bottom of the insulation, someone, on the contrary, upstairs, and some use both here and there.
If extruded polystyrene foam is used, it practically does not need waterproofing, so its position is not so critical. But it will not allow the cement milk to penetrate between the seams of the insulation and go into the slab and will additionally hold back moisture from below.
If you fix it to the bottom of the insulation, then you can attach the pipes to the warm floor directly to the insulation. If the waterproofing is laid up, then the installation of a mesh will be required to fix the pipes.

We lay the waterproofing with an overlap of 20 cm on the walls, and on top of each other. We glue the joints with tape for sealing.

Damper tape

If you bought a ready-made tape, just glue it around the perimeter. It usually has a thickness of 5-8 mm and a height of 10-15 cm. The height should be above the level of the filling, the excess is cut off with a knife. If the tape is made by hand, then be sure to glue or screw it to the wall with self-tapping screws.

Linear expansion of concrete is 0.5 mm per meter when heated to 40 ° C.

Insulation

Insulation sheet for a warm water floor is laid with an offset of the joints so that it is tightly connected.

Reinforcement

The first layer of reinforcing mesh is usually laid on insulation and used as a base for attaching contours and even distribution of heat over the surface. The nets are tied together with wire. Pipes are attached to the mesh on nylon clamps.

The diameter of the mesh rods is 4-5 mm, and the mesh size - depending on the pipe laying pitch, for convenient fastening.

In addition, it is imperative to lay the reinforcement on top of the pipes, since even when using the mesh from below, it will have almost no effect if it lies at the very bottom. Or, during pouring, place the mesh on supports, creating a gap.

Pipe fixation methods

A water-heated floor can be installed in several ways, we will list them.

• Tensioning clamp made of polyamide. Used for quick fastening of pipes to the mounting grid. Consumption - about 2 pieces per 1 m.
• Fastening wire made of steel. Also used for installation to the grid, the flow rate is exactly the same.
• Stapler and clamps. Suitable for quick fixing of pipes to thermal insulation. The consumption of clamps is 2 pieces per 1 m.
• Fixing track. It is a U-shaped PVC strip, which serves as a base for laying pipes 16 or 20 mm in it. Fixed to the floor.
• Mats for warm water floors made of polystyrene. A pipe is laid in the middle of the grooves between the posts.
• Distribution aluminum plate. It is used for installation in wooden floors, reflects and evenly distributes heat over the surface.

Application of various types of pipe fasteners

Pipe laying

The pipes are laid with an indent from the walls of 15-20 cm.Each circuit is highly desirable to be made from a single pipe without welding, and their length should not be more than 100 m.The step between the pipes at the walls is 10 cm, closer to the center - 15 cm.

The layout of the warm floor is different, for example, a spiral or a snake. At the outer walls, they try to take a laying step more often or draw a contour from the feed next to cold walls. An example of a circuit for enhanced heating of external walls is shown in the photo, this option is best used in cold regions:



In other cases, the contours are usually laid with a spiral (snail), this is a universal option.

In places with a large accumulation of pipes, in order to avoid overheating of the surface, some of them are covered with a heat-insulating tube.

Metal-plastic 16 mm and 20 mm can be easily bent by hand, without the use of special tools. In order to evenly bend the pipes with an angle of a small radius and at the same time prevent it from cracking, the corners are bent in several passes (hand interceptions).
At an angle of 90 °, you will need about 5-6 interceptions. This means, first, resting on the thumbs, make a small bend, then slightly shift the arms towards the bend and repeat the steps.

The presence of kinks on pipes in places of sharp turns is unacceptable.

Polypropylene pipes are much more difficult to bend because they are springy. Therefore, for bending, they are heated or made, but in the case of a warm floor, they are simply attached to the mesh, making the bends less sharp.

The installation of a water-heated floor begins by connecting the first end of the pipe to the distribution manifold, and after laying the room, the return line is immediately connected (the second end).

Connecting circuits

In most cases, the circuits are connected via a distribution unit. It has several functions: increasing the pressure in the system, regulating the temperature, uniform supply to several circuits, combining with radiators.

There are many schemes for connecting to the boiler, which we wrote about in the article about: with manual adjustment, with weather automation and auto-adjustment using servo drives and sensors.

Eurocone fitting

The pipes are connected to the manifold using Eurocone clamping fittings.

Crimping

When you have completed the installation of all circuits, be sure to pneumatically test the system for leaks. For this, a pressure test is done with the help of a compressor. A small household compressor with a pressure of more than 6 bar is suitable for testing. The pressure in the system is brought to 4 bar and left on for the entire time until the system is started.

Since air molecules are much smaller than water molecules, even a slight depressurization can be detected. In addition, the water can freeze if you do not have time to connect the heating, and nothing will happen with the air.

Underfloor heating screed

The screed is poured only after the installation of all circuits and hydraulic tests. It is recommended to use concrete not lower than M-300 (B-22.5) with crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm. A minimum thickness of 3 cm above the pipe is made not only to obtain the required strength, but also to distribute heat evenly over the surface. Weight 1 sq. m. screed with a thickness of 5 cm is up to 125 kg.

With a screed thickness of more than 15 cm or at high loads, an additional calculation of the thermal regime is required.

With an increase in the thickness of the screed, it takes more time to heat it up to a certain temperature after switching on, and the inertia of the system also increases. The lower the thermal conductivity of the screed, the higher the temperature of the coolant will need to be made.

Expansion joints

Examples of dividing a large room into zones

The absence or incorrect position of thermal gaps is the most common cause of screed failure.

Shrinkage seams are made in the following cases:

• the room has an area of ​​over 30 sq. m .;
• walls are more than 8 m long;
• the length and width of the room differ by more than 2 times;
• over the expansion joints of structures;
• the room is too curved.

For this, a damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the seams. In place of the seam, the reinforcement mesh must be divided. The expansion gap should be 10 mm thick at the base. The upper part is treated with a sealant. If the room has a non-standard shape, it must be divided into simpler rectangular or square elements.




If pipes pass through expansion joints in a screed, in these places they are laid in a corrugated pipe, 30 cm corrugation in each direction (according to SP 41-102-98 - 50 cm on each side). It is recommended not to separate one contour with expansion joints; supply and return pipes must pass through it.

Correct passage of contours through technological seams

When laying tiles on expansion joints, the likelihood of their peeling off due to different expansion of adjacent slabs increases. To avoid this, the first part is laid on tile adhesive, and the second part is attached to an elastic sealant.

For additional separation, expansion joints of an incomplete profile can be used. They are made with a trowel, 1/3 of the thickness. After the concrete has set, they are also sealed with a sealant. If pipes pass through them, they are also protected by a corrugation.

Screed cracks

A fairly common occurrence is the appearance of cracks on the screed after drying. This can provoke a number of reasons:

• low density of insulation;
• poor compaction of the solution;
• lack of plasticizers;
• too thick screed;
• lack of shrinkage seams;
• too fast drying of concrete;
• incorrect proportions of the solution.

It is very easy to avoid them:

• insulation must be used with a density higher than 35-40 kg / m3;
• the screed solution must be plastic when laying and with the addition of fiber and plasticizer;
• in large rooms, you need to make shrinkage seams (see below);
• also, concrete should not be allowed to set quickly; for this, it is covered with plastic wrap the next day (for a week).

Screed mortar

For underfloor heating, it is imperative to use a plasticizer to increase the elasticity and strength of concrete. But you need to use special types of non-air-entraining plasticizers for underfloor heating.

Without experience, it will not work to make a cement-sand screed for a warm floor without crushed stone / gravel, and the correct branded DSP will cost more than factory concrete. Therefore, in order to avoid cracks due to a violation of the composition of the solution, it is concrete with crushed stone that is poured.

Mortar M-300 from cement grade M-400, washed sand and crushed stone is made according to the following proportions.

• Mass composition of C: P: U (kg) = 1: 1.9: 3.7.
• Volumetric composition for 10 liters of cement P: W (l) = 17:32.
• From 10 liters of cement, 41 liters of mortar will be obtained.
• The volumetric weight of such concrete M300 will be 2300-2500 kg / m3 (heavy concrete)

There is also another option using granite screening instead of sand; the following elements were used for its preparation:

• 2 buckets of crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm;
• water 7-8 liters;
• superplasticizer SP1 400 ml of solution (1.8 liters of powder is diluted in 5 liters of hot water);
• 1 bucket of cement;
• 3-4 buckets of granite screening with a fraction of 0-5 mm;
• bucket volume - 12 liters.

High-quality concrete should not release water during installation (delaminate). If everything is done correctly and the air temperature is 20 ° C, it should begin to set in 4 hours, and after 12 hours it will not leave traces of heels.

After 3 days after pouring, the screed will gain half of its strength, and will harden completely only after 28 days. It is not recommended to turn on the heating system until this moment.

Installation on a wooden floor

Wood does not conduct heat as efficiently as concrete, but installation on it is also feasible. For this, distribution plates made of aluminum are used. The pipes are laid in wooden grooves made by fixing pre-prepared boards.

For the installation of linoleum, carpet and other materials that require a flat surface, a leveling layer of chipboard, plywood or gypsum fiber board is laid above the pipes. If parquet or laminate will be used as a topcoat, the construction of a warm floor can be slightly simplified, without the use of an equalizing layer.

When choosing plywood and chipboard, make sure that they have sanitary-hygienic and thermomechanical characteristics, allowing them to be used together with underfloor heating.

Prices for water heated floor

The price for a warm water floor is formed from several components:

• cost of materials (pipes, insulation, fasteners, etc.);
• the cost of the pumping and mixing unit and the collector;
• work on leveling the base and pouring the top layer of the screed;
• the cost of installing a warm floor.

On average, the price of a water heat-insulated floor for a turnkey installation together with all materials and work will cost about 1500-3000 rubles. Per 1 sq. M. m.

Below is an approximate estimate for a house of 100 sq. m., but the prices for water heated floors are highly dependent on the region, so it is best to drive in your data there and make an independent calculation. It does not include the costs of installing and purchasing radiators, a boiler, a topcoat and a screed.

Estimate for the installation of a water-heated floor system on the 1st floor.
№	Material name	Unit rev.	Qty	Price	Sum
1	Extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm	m2	96	227	21792
2	Mounting mesh 150 * 150 * 4	m2	106	30	3180
3	Polyethylene film 250 microns	m2	105	40	4200
4	Metal-plastic pipe 16 mm	m. p.	700	39	27300
5	Damping tape from backing	m2	30	50	1500
6	Manifold Valtec 1 ", 7 x 3/4", "Eurocone"	PCS.	2	1600	3200
7	Manifold connection fitting (Eurocone) 16x2 mm	PCS.	14	115	1610
8	Pump-mixing unit	PCS.	1	14500	14500
9	Dowels and screws	PCS.	300	1,5	450
10	Mounting tape	m. p.	50	11	550
11	Other accessories for warm water floor	poses	1	0	0
	Total by materials				78282
	Name of works	Unit rev.	Qty	Price	Sum
1	Rough screed	m2	96	60	5760
2	Damper tape installation	m. p.	160	60	9600
3	Laying waterproofing	m2	100	60	6000
4	Laying the mounting grid	m2	110	150	16500
5	Installation of pipes	m2	96	300	28800
6	System pressure testing	m2	96	20	1920
	Total by work				68580
1	Total by materials				78282
2	Total by work				68580
3	Total				146862
	Overhead transportation costs			10%	14686
	In total, according to the estimate, the installation of a water-heated floor system is 1 floor.				161548

Installation of warm water floors is shown in the video:

The underfloor heating system will be an excellent addition to the main heating system. Also, the warm floor can safely perform the functions of the main heating without the need for additional devices.

Often, owners decide to install a warm floor on their own. And if to connect it is necessary to possess the skills of performing electrical work, then the independent arrangement of a water heated floor is within the power of everyone. Read the instructions and get started.

Preparatory work

First step

Dismantle the old screed all the way to the base. Make sure that the surface difference does not exceed 1 cm.

Second step

Place a layer of waterproofing material on a thoroughly cleaned surface.

Third step

Attach a damper tape around the perimeter of the room. If your system will consist of several contours, the tape must also be laid along the line between these contours.

Fourth step

Thermal insulation material, as well as the procedure for insulation, is selected individually in accordance with the conditions of a particular situation.

So, if the system is to be used as a supplement to the main heating, it will be enough to install foil-clad polyethylene.

In most situations, however, foam or other suitable material is used as the thermal insulation material.

Also available for sale are heaters designed specifically for installation in combination with floor heating pipes. In their structure, there are already channels for pipe laying.

Fifth step

Place a reinforcing mesh over the insulation. It will help to increase the strength of the screed with which you fill the pipes.

In this case, the pipes of the system can be attached directly to the mesh, eliminating the need for special clips and strips. In this case, ordinary plastic ties can be used for fastening.

You need to carry out an individual calculation and determine the optimal pipe-laying parameters for each individual room.

The easiest way to do the calculation is with the help - this will give you the opportunity to save time and effort.

It is rather difficult to calculate the required power for each individual circuit solely using the formulas. Such a calculation requires taking into account many parameters. In this case, the slightest mistake can lead to extremely unfavorable consequences.

To calculate the system, you need to know the following parameters:

The listed parameters will allow you to calculate the optimal length of the pipes to be laid, as well as the appropriate spacing for their placement to ensure the required level of heat transfer.

You must also find a suitable pipe-laying route. Remember: water gradually loses heat as it passes through pipes. That's why distribution must be performed taking into account a number of important nuances, namely:

• it is recommended to start laying pipes from the less warm (external) walls of the room;
• if the pipe is introduced into the room not from the side of the outer wall, then part of the pipe from the point of entry to the wall must be insulated;
• in order to gradually reduce the intensity of heating from the outer walls of the room to the inner walls, a "snake" laying option is used;
• in order to ensure uniform heating of the space in rooms that do not have external walls (wardrobes, bathrooms, etc.), use the spiral installation method. In this case, the spiral should develop from the edge of the room to its middle.

The most commonly used step for laying pipes for underfloor heating is 300 mm. In places with increased heat loss, the pipe spacing can be reduced to 150 mm.

It is desirable that the resistance of the pipes in the circuits connected to a common collector be the same. To do this, you need to divide especially large contours into several smaller ones. Particularly large in this case are contours with a pipe length exceeding 100 m.

Also, experts strongly do not recommend heating several rooms with one circuit. Attic floors, glazed verandas, balconies, etc. the rooms must be heated by a separate circuit of the system. Otherwise, the heating efficiency will be significantly reduced.

Underfloor heating installation instructions

Proceed with the installation of the system. The work is carried out in several stages.

The first stage is the collector

The collector is installed in a specially designed collector box. Usually the thickness of such a box is 120 mm. Select the dimensions in accordance with the dimensions of the collector coarse and taking into account the dimensions of various kinds of additions such as drain sensors, pressure sensors, etc.

Arrange the manifold group so that there is enough clearance under it to bend the pipes.

Install the manifold cabinet. Do this so that the pipe lengths from each heated room and system circuit are approximately the same.

Most often, collector cabinets are simply wall-mounted - the 120mm thickness allows this to be done. The manifold box must be installed above the level of the underfloor heating system.

It is important to remember: it is categorically not recommended to create all kinds of niches in load-bearing walls, and in most situations it is even strictly prohibited.

The assembly of the manifold cabinet is carried out in accordance with the attached instructions, so you will not have any problems and difficulties at this stage.

Second stage - heating boiler

First of all, choose a suitable power. The equipment must normally withstand the incoming loads and have a certain power reserve. The calculation is extremely simple: you add up the power of all underfloor heating systems and add a 15 percent headroom.

The coolant in the system under consideration is provided by a pump. The design of modern boilers includes a suitable pump from the outset. Usually, its power is sufficient to ensure the normal functioning of the system in rooms up to 120-150 m 2.

If the dimensions of the room exceed the given values, you will have to install an additional pump. In such situations, the pumps are installed in remote manifold cabinets.

It is necessary to install shut-off valves directly at the points of inlet and outlet of the coolant from the boiler. With the help of these devices, you can turn off the heating equipment when such a need arises, for example, for repairs or preventive maintenance.

Most often, home craftsmen give preference - they are the easiest to install and show themselves very well when working in conjunction with a floor heating system. To install and connect the equipment, you just need to follow the provisions of the manufacturer's instructions.

Prices for a range of heating boilers

Heating boilers

Third stage - pipes

Pipes are laid in accordance with a previously prepared diagram. For fastening the elements, profiles with holes for the placement of screws are usually used.

You can also attach the pipes to the mesh with plastic ties - this was mentioned earlier.

When attaching the pipes, make sure that they are not pinched too tightly - it is better when the loop is free.

Try to make bends as accurate as possible, while observing the recommendations for the minimum allowable radius. In the case of polyethylene pipes, this radius is usually 5 pipe diameters.

If you squeeze the plastic pipe too tightly, a whitish streak forms at the bend. This indicates the occurrence of a crease. It is forbidden to use such pipes - a breakthrough will appear very quickly in the place of the crease.

Connect the pipes of the system to the manifold using a fitting or a Eurocone system.

After completing the installation of the system, be sure to check. To check, fill in water, apply a pressure of about 5 bar and leave the warm floor in a similar state for a day. If, after 24 hours, no noticeable extensions and leaks are noted, you can proceed with the arrangement of the screed.

Fourth stage - screed

When filling, the pipes must be at operating pressure. After pouring, the screed must be left to dry for a month. Only after the screed is fully cured, you can proceed to laying the topcoat.

When forming a concrete screed, it is necessary to take into account a number of important features associated with the nature of the distribution of thermal energy in the thickness of the pour and the applied topcoat.

If tiles are to be laid, the thickness of the screed should be about 30-50 mm. Alternatively, you can reduce the distance between the pipes to 100-150 mm. Otherwise, the heat will be distributed absolutely unevenly.

In the case of laying linoleum, laminate panels, etc., the thickness of the screed should be even thinner. To strengthen the pouring in such a situation, it is necessary to use an additional reinforcing mesh laid over the pipes.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Thus, the installation of the underfloor heating system is carried out without any problems on its own. You just need to follow the given provisions of the instructions and take a responsible approach to the implementation of all activities.

Happy work!

Video - Make a warm floor with your own hands

Space heating based on underfloor heating technology is much more efficient than heating with conventional radiator batteries. Underfloor heating provides the room with normal air circulation: warm air is at the bottom, cooler air is higher.

There are two options for floor heating in the house: electric and water. But the electric method of floor heating is very expensive to operate, therefore, water floor heating is more popular.

How to organize a warm water floor in the house

To heat a house with water, you need a number of pipes. Water will circulate through the system and heat the floor.

The bottom line is that you need to lay the pipes under the floor covering. The process is not the easiest, but anyone who wants to can figure it out.

Which room is suitable for installing a warm floor

Since this option for floor heating requires a considerable number of pipes, it is mainly installed in private houses.

Multi-storey buildings are not suitable for this type of heating. The management company simply will not give permission for the installation of underfloor heating from general heating.

New buildings for the most part are equipped with systems for both radiator and water floor heating.

In order for the installation of a warm floor to be successful, you need to study all the nuances of this process.

Heat conductor temperature

In order for the floor to be at a comfortable temperature, the water temperature in the batteries should not be higher than 45C. In this case, the flooring itself will heat up to 28C.

But in most cases, heating systems produce a minimum temperature of about 65C. Only gas boilers are able to maintain the required temperature level. They are effective precisely at low temperatures.

If other heating systems are used, then a mixing unit is required. It adds cooling water from the return pipe to the existing heating system.

The cooling effect is as follows: hot water from the boiler enters the thermostatic valve, which opens the addition of cold water from the return pipe when the temperature rises sharply.

How to make a warm floor with your own hands: eyeliner

There are two technologies for fixing pipes:

Dry eyeliner. Metal strips with prepared pipe channels are laid out on expanded polystyrene mats or on wooden plates. This will distribute the heat more evenly during heating.

Plywood or other rigid materials are laid on top. If you plan to install warm floors under the tiles, then the whole technology remains unchanged, only tiles are laid on OSB or plywood using special glue.

Screed or wet pipe installation. This technology will require several layers:

• Insulation;
• Mesh or tape;
• Pipes;
• Screed.

The floor covering is laid after the screed has set. You can put a waterproofing silt reinforcing mesh under the insulation.

Note!

A damper tape must be used when installing the floor. It is laid where two contours are connected, having previously rolled it over the entire area.

Which system is the best?

How to make a warm floor, and which system to use in this case? Both systems have pros and cons.

The dry styling option will be more costly if you buy all the components ready-made. But their mass is much smaller and they can be used faster.

The screed, on the other hand, has a large mass, and not any foundation will be able to withstand it. Only having a foundation with a margin can you allow installation in this way.

If screed pipes are damaged, it will be very difficult to repair them. The screed will have to be broken, and the repair itself can cause damage to nearby pipes.

It is possible to use a warm floor in a screed only on the 28th day after laying, because the concrete must gain strength. Almost a month will have to do without heating.

Note!

If the house has a wooden floor, then the screed and high temperatures will contribute to the rapid deterioration of the wood.

It is necessary to study all the initial data at home in order to avoid serious consequences. Perhaps, in some cases, it is better to resort to dry technologies.

Underfloor heating in your home is a great idea that can be implemented by understanding the information about this process.

It is worth studying the information found, looking at a photo of a warm floor on the Internet, as well as diagrams of piping systems for floor heating.

Do-it-yourself photo of a warm floor

Note!