Garage lifting home-made drawings. Making lifting gates with your own hands - a diagram, calculations and a sequence of actions. Advantages and disadvantages of the lifting structure

Garage doors are an expensive design, so many car owners strive to make and install gates on their own. The technology of assembling garage doors on our own is not as complicated as it seems, and if you strictly follow the instructions, the “house” for the car will gain reliable protection.

Manufacturing features

The process of building a garage door structure begins with the design and drawing up of detailed diagrams and drawings. This does not require special skills. Take paper, ruler, pencil, measure all dimensions. First determine the width. It should be equal to the width of the car body, but have an additional tolerance on both sides of at least 30 cm. To make the measurement more accurate, it is better to take it at several points, and then stop at the arithmetic mean. Then measure the height. This is easier, since a garage is usually built for a specific car, so the required parameter is already available.

Now you can create a drawing while thinking through all the structural elements in parallel.

The swing gate scheme is the simplest:

draw two rectangles, indicate their dimensions;
if you want to have sashes of different sizes, indicate this in the drawing.

Drawings for other types of gates are made in the same way, but it must be remembered that lifting and sliding types have only one section. Here you need to be careful when determining the stiffeners. When drawing a sectional door, the number of sections is taken into account.

Types of structures

There are several types of garage doors.

Recoil

Their main element is a sash that moves parallel to the garage wall.

Among the main advantages of these gates are:

reliability of work;
service life;
strength;
saving space;
relatively low price.

The main disadvantage is that such sliding gates can be mounted only in garages with a wide facade. Its width must be at least such that the sliding sash can fit entirely on it. Such gates can be made and installed by yourself. The leaves are made in almost the same way as the leaves of conventional swing gates. The difference lies in the installation: guides and rollers are used instead of hinges.

Lifting-sectional

The door leaf consists of separate segments, which, when lifted, are refracted and go under the ceiling covering. They are based on a lever-spring device and guides with a chain drive. Making sectional doors at home is almost impossible.

Their advantages include:

multifunctionality. There are gates for low and high openings in various widths;
high heat and noise insulation characteristics;
ease of use;
saving space in front of the garage.

Disadvantages - relatively low burglar resistance and high cost.

Lift-and-turn

This is a design in which the sash, when opened, rises under the ceiling covering. Lifting is carried out by means of a hinge-link mechanism. The design of overhead gates is rather complicated. To make them yourself, you need to have good engineering experience and special knowledge. A novice craftsman can try to assemble a ready-made factory-assembled gate himself.

The main advantages are increased burglary resistance and space saving. The disadvantage is the increased requirements for the space under the ceiling.

If there is not enough space, then the swing gate will not work.

Automatic roller shutters (roller shutters or roller shutters)

This design is rare. It has not received widespread use due to its unreliability. Such gates consist of aluminum strips, which slide into a box under the ceiling. Roller shutters can be installed in guarded objects and in heated garages.

Folding (folding)

This design includes several separate canvases, interconnected by a dense flexible material (rubber, synthetic fabric). They fold when opened. When closed, the canvas stretches, completely closing the opening.

Swing type

The most unpretentious system that does not require the use of expensive materials and time-consuming installation. The box for it is made of a metal corner, the sash is made of iron sheets. The operation of the gate is simple, but the reliability indicator is extremely high.

The advantages of the system are as follows:

maximum design simplicity;
function without electricity;
universal;
low price;
reliability.

The main disadvantage is the need for free space in front of the garage for opening the doors. This brings some discomfort in winter: to open the gate, you must first clear the snow from the space in front of it.

Since swing gates are quite simple to manufacture, it is better for novice craftsmen to opt for them.

As mentioned above, the manufacture of swing gates is simpler and less costly than the manufacture of other types of structures, therefore it is the technology of their creation that is worth considering. Self-production of swing gates does not require hard-to-reach and expensive equipment. The materials can also be purchased at any building mall.

Before starting work, you need to stock up on:

metal corners for the manufacture of the supporting frame;
steel profiles;
shaped pipe;
cladding material at your discretion:
- forging;
- wood paneling;
- metal sheet or sheathing made of corrugated board.

steel strip or reinforcing bar;
screeds;
seals;
canopy;
clamps.

Dimensions (edit)

First of all, you need to figure out the height and width of the future entrance structure. The smallest value of the width should be such that the distance on both sides from the car to the gate frame is 30 cm or more. The minimum width is 5 m, but the generally accepted door width ranges from 2.5 to 3 m. This size guarantees comfortable access to the garage. When determining the width of the gate, the distance between the frame and the perpendicularly located wall should be taken into account. It must be at least 80 cm.

The height of the structure is calculated according to the size of the vehicle. An opening of 2.5 m is required for a minibus. An ordinary car needs 2-2.2 m.

To avoid inconsistencies with the garage plan, experienced professionals recommend sketching the gate during the design of the room.

Tools and accessories

Along with the materials, you need to take care to have accessories and tools on hand, such as:

angle grinder (grinder) with a set of grinding and cutting discs;
welding unit;
locksmith's square, tape measure;
construction level, hydro level;
fittings;
fasteners.

How to make and install correctly?

Assemble the box (frame) with your own hands. It consists of two structures in the shape of a rectangle, which will be further connected to each other. On the outer side of the box, hinges are welded to install the sashes, the inner one holds the gate in the opening. They are made from the 65th corner.

Cut 8 pieces of the corner corresponding in size to the height and width of the gate (4 pieces of each size). Lay out the corners on a flat surface, assemble the frames. By measuring the angles and diagonals, achieve perfect proportionality of the elements to the opening of the garage wall. Weld parts of the structures.

Insert the finished rectangular elements into the opening, adjust to the installation site. Weld the inner and outer elements together with crossbars made of reinforcement or metal strip, breaking the height and width of the gate into equal segments.

When using reinforcement, you can make holes in the wall, and then drive pieces of reinforcing bar of the required size into them, fixing them by welding on the frame. Typically, the connecting pieces are welded over the edges of the opening.

Assembly and installation of sashes

Guided by the drawings, measure and cut elements from a 40x40 mm equal angle corner, place them on a flat plane. Assemble the base of future sashes and doors (wickets). Align by measuring the diagonals and corners of all rectangular frames and weld. Cut two pieces out of the sheet. They should be 40 mm longer than the length of the garage opening, but cut different canvases across the width. One should be 20 mm less than the frame width, the second - 20 mm more.

Weld the canvases with the frame, while making sure that the canvases protrude 2 cm beyond the frame along the perimeter. A similar protrusion should be on the wicket. This is done in order to close the gaps between the box and the frame. This design will prevent excess moisture and drafts from entering through the gaps. When welding the sheets, do not make a continuous seam. Better to do a dotted line weld using the 1x5 principle.

The final stage is the welding of the hinges. The lower hinge segment with the pin is fixed by welding to the frame, and the upper segment to the gate leaf. For reliability, you can strengthen the fixation of the hinges by means of metal plates. In the place where the hinge is fixed to the box, an iron bar can be installed to increase the welded area. Place the gate leaf in the place indicated in the drawing. Make sure that this position allows you to easily open the gate. Mark the location of the second segment of the lower loop. Weld it along the markings, aligning exactly vertically.

Without loading the lower hinge, hang the sash. Mark the location of the upper hinge on the door and frame, remove the sash. Weld the hinge segments according to the markings, hang the gate leaf, test its movement. If it opens freely and remains in the given position, then you can start mounting the second part. This process is similar to the one already given.

After mounting in one of the leaves, install the wicket, proceeding in the same sequence as for the doors themselves. Install handles, hooks, locks, latches after complete installation of the sashes.

In a heated garage, it is advisable to sheathe, insulate and seal the gates. Also, don't forget to grease the hinges.

Installation of other door models

Roller shutter and folding models presuppose the use of ready-made devices for opening and closing, therefore, they are mainly purchased in a ready-to-install form, and also made to order, having created a circuit in advance. In such situations, you can only assemble and put the door frame with your own hand, then hang the canvas, guided by the attached description.

A box is not required to mount a sliding gate. Self-creation of such gates comes down to assembling one large canvas. To do this, you can apply a procedure similar to that used when assembling a curtain with a wicket. For the installation of such structures, guides are placed above and below the opening, along which the canvas will move in the future. All equipment is purchased ready-made.

Installation is limited only to the assembly of parts according to the instructions.

The "sore spot" of such gates is the hinges. High load provokes rod breakage, hinge displacement, longitudinal deformation and other malfunctions. Systematic lubrication of the hinges will help to delay the occurrence of such breakdowns. The second problem is sagging. It may appear due to the absence of cross members and deformation of the structure frame. In this situation, aligning the leaves or replacing them, as well as installing spacers, will help.

To date, many designs of garage doors have been developed and put into practice. Swinging ones in terms of ease of use are in many ways inferior to sliding ones, but they still remain the most reliable. There is simply nothing to break in them. The design is simple, so any car owner can make a swing gate for a garage with his own hands.

Swing gates can be either double-leaf or single-leaf

Before starting to implement the idea, you need to clearly understand what a swing gate is, what elements they consist of and how they work. There are two types of this design:

with one sash;
with two.

The first option is not suitable for a garage, since the dimensions of one sash will be too large, and it will be inconvenient to open it.

Bivalves consist of several elements:

frame made of a metal corner, round or profiled pipe;
sash;
wickets in one of the doors, if such is provided for by the project;
loops;
jibs / crossbars / jumpers;
bolt and / or lock.

The assembly and installation of swing gates is simple. But those who do not have experience in the manufacture and installation of such structures will need detailed instructions that take into account all the nuances of each stage of work.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of swing gates is reliability... But this is far from their only plus. The simplicity of the design leads to other advantages:

there is no need to set up and maintain automation;
among the budgetary alternatives of sectional, lifting and sliding gates, there are no comparable in cost to swing gates - the latter are always more favorable in price;
you can install automation: drives that open and close the doors;
there is no need to reinforce the opening and the upper overlap, which is often required when installing sectional or overhead doors;
the possibility of insulating the doors and frame;
many options for the design of the doors.

The main disadvantage is the need to get out of the car and close / open the gate under any, most unfavorable weather conditions. In addition, in winter it is necessary to clear the space in front of them from snow.

What materials can be made

Hinged gates made of a profile pipe, if properly manufactured and used, are guaranteed a long life

Despite the wide selection of building materials, reliable swing gates can be made in several ways.

Option number 1:

Metal corner 50x50z3 mm - for making the frame of the sash and reinforcing it with jibs or crossbars.
Cold-rolled metal sheets 2.5-3 mm thick. Attached to the frame with a 3 cm outlet. Welding is used.
4 loops with a section of 25 mm, dimensions 30x160 mm. They are welded onto metal sheets through additional metal plates.

Option number 2:

Rectangular pipe 40x40x2.5 mm or 50-50-2.5 mm for the frame of the shutters and reinforcing elements.
Metal sheets with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm are fixed to the frame with rivets.
4-6 loops.
4 metal hinge plates.

For the device of the gate posts, pipes 80x80x3 mm are used. The upper beam, reinforcing the opening, is made of channel # 16 (shelf height 160 mm) or # 18, depending on the width of the gate. The threshold can be made from the same materials: a profile pipe or a metal corner.

The most reliable way to arrange swing gates in the garage is to mount a frame made of channel No. 24 under them and install it at the stage of walls and floors construction. If this is not possible, the elements reinforcing the opening are mounted: the upper beam, the threshold and the racks for the sashes.

Reference! The proposed options for materials for the device of swing gates in the garage are universal and suitable for any buildings: brick, concrete, wood, from foam and aerated blocks. The only exception is a metal profile garage. For such buildings, lightweight structures are needed.

For garages, "flexible" gates are made of metal profiles, such that each leaf can be pressed against the opening with minimal effort. The frame of such structures consists of a bent profile of an open section (L- or U-shaped). The leaves are installed on 4-6 hinges.

Doors with a rigid frame are designed and manufactured in such a way that the sashes approach the opening with a minimum gap and immediately close with the provided locks, without additional efforts. The exact data on the required materials in a particular case can be obtained through calculations.

Payment

You can make the calculation manually, using formulas, or using a special calculator

Professional calculation of strength characteristics and geometric parameters of materials for the manufacture of garage doors is performed using a set of complex mathematical formulas. The following factors are taken into account:

the stiffness of the opening;
warping deformations for given sizes of valves and the use of a certain material;
bending strength;
twisting forces (from wind pressure, weight load, mechanical stress).

To perform accurate calculations, specialized calculators have been developed. You can use them if necessary.

Required materials and tools

For the manufacture of swing gates (with a wicket) with dimensions of 2200x3000 mm, you will need not only materials and tools. Appliances will also be needed, since swing garage doors are made / welded only in a horizontal position.

Materials (edit)

The shaped tube is ready for use

Metal corner 50x50x2 mm, length 2.2 m - 2 pieces (in total, 4.4 m of the corner will be required).
Profile pipe 50x25x2 mm, length 3 m - 2 pcs.
Sheets of cold-rolled metal (can be replaced with hot-rolled) 1250x2500 mm, 2 or 3 mm thick - 3 pcs.
Profile pipe 40x25 mm (or 40x20 mm) 2.2 m long - 9 pcs (required for the manufacture of horizontal slats of doors and wickets).
Profile pipe 40x20 mm, 3 m long - 3 pcs (for the manufacture of vertical slats of the sash frame).
Profile pipe 40x40 mm, 3 m long - 1 pc
Additional elements: steel plates for hinges and for strengthening the frame joints, steel rods.
The castle is suvaldny.
Garage bolts: vertical and horizontal.
Metal primer.
Thinner No. 646.
Dye.
Insulating tape.
Coarse to medium grit sandpaper.

Reference! Using a profile pipe for the threshold device is a reasonable solution. With this design of the frame, the gate wings are raised above the level of the parking area cover by 20-25 mm. In this regard, rainwater will not leak into the room.

Instruments

Welding machine.
Electrodes.
Sledgehammer, hammers.
Grinder, discs for metal.
Drill, drill.
Perforator.
Screwdriwer set.
Bolts with nuts, self-tapping screws.
Clamps.
Level (preferably laser).
Roulette or rangefinder.

Important! Before starting to work with the welding machine, you need to make sure that the garage wiring can withstand this load.

When calculating and purchasing materials, take into account the need for strapping (double frame with horizontal jumpers) of the garage opening. For its manufacture and installation, the same materials and tools will be required. You can use a metal corner, channel, profile pipes. The strapping is an optional element of the gate device, it is necessary in order to strengthen the opening and the structure as a whole.

Gadgets

To perform cutting and assembly work, you will need two tables: main and auxiliary. The dimensions of the main one should be such that both sashes with frames fit on it. The surface of the table must be leveled. Otherwise, there is a high risk of distortions. The table must be strong, capable of withstanding the weight of metal, tools and blows from a sledgehammer.

Preparatory work

Opening preparation

The preparation of the opening consists in performing several actions:

Make sure the walls on either side of the opening are free from cracks and deformations.
Dismantle the old structure, if any.
Level the opening (if necessary).
They clean surfaces from dirt, cement deposits and plaster.

Step-by-step instructions for making metal swing gates

Installation of metal swing gates for a garage can be done in two ways.

Option number 1:

The grinder went into action

Step 1. Cutting out materials: cut corners and pipes with a grinder to the required dimensions, corresponding to the drawing or project.

Step 2. Assembling the double frame.

Two vertical strips, the length of which corresponds to the height of the door, are welded together by horizontal bridges (steel strips).
In the wall of the opening, holes are drilled for the clips, which can be used as pins from the reinforcement. The minimum hole depth is 200 mm.
Dust the holes.
Fill them with a cement-sand mortar.
Using a sledgehammer, hammer the pins.
On the protruding part of the pins, measure 50 mm and cut off the excess with a grinder. There is another option for performing this task: cut the pins flush with the frame, scald them after installing it.
They plant the frame.
The protruding parts of the reinforcement are bent with a sledgehammer.

Installation work is performed using a plumb line and level. The second vertical frame post is installed in the same way.

Step 3. Layout of the horizontal line for the installation of the upper beam and threshold. When performing work, use a laser level.

Step 4. According to the instructions given in step # 2, the horizontal frame beams are installed.

Step 5. The frame of both leaves is assembled on the table. Do not forget about the need for reinforcing bars, which can be located in an x-shape, t-shape, or according to the principle of horizontal bridges. If a wicket is provided, its frame is welded from the corresponding elements.

Step 6. Weld on the hinges.

Step 7. Hang the sashes.

Step 8. The sheets of metal are welded in (the sashes are sewn up).

Sash sheathing sheets must have an overhang at the top and bottom of at least 20 mm.
The center should be overlapped by one of the flaps.

Step 9. They clean the metal from the effects of welding.

Step 10. Cover with an anti-corrosion primer.

Step 11. Install locks and locks.

Step 12. Paint the gate.

If necessary, the sash and opening are insulated.

Option number 2:

The second option for the manufacture of swing gates is suitable in the absence of conditions for building perfectionism

This method of making the sash frame is optimal in situations where it is not possible to build a perfectly flat horizontal surface for assembling the frame.

Step 1. Making scarves. 4 identical strips 50 cm long are cut from a metal corner. At several points they are grabbed to the opening frame. The gusset is an auxiliary element that will subsequently be cut off by a grinder. Therefore, no continuous welding is required.

Step 2. Cut off 4 strips to make the sash frame.

Step 3. The corners prepared at the previous stage are tacked to the kerchiefs by welding so that a "frame in frame" design is obtained. Continuous welding is needed only in the inner corners (for sashes).

Step 4. Installation of stiffening ribs. If a gate is provided in one of the doors, its frame is welded.

Step 5. Installation of awnings / hinges. Use products with a male-female connection. "Dad" is fixed to the frame of the opening, "Mum" - to the gate leaves.

Step 6. With a grinder, cut the frame of the sashes in the middle vertically.

Step 7. Cut off the kerchiefs.

Step 8. The sashes are sheathed with metal sheets or other material selected at the design stage.

Video: DIY swing garage doors

Features of care and operation

Correctly made and installed swing gates have a large margin of safety. In order for their operational resource not to be prematurely exhausted, several simple maintenance rules must be observed.

Keep metal structures clean.
Timely renew the protective paintwork.
Avoid mechanical damage to the casing: dents and paint chips.
Do not clean painted structural elements with scrapers, hard-bristled brushes, washes or solvents.
Before opening / closing the sashes, make sure that there are no obstacles in the way of their movement.
Do not allow weight loads on the gate leaves.
The hinges are periodically lubricated with Litol or another similar action.

The process of making swing gates in a garage is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. All stages of this task, from design to painting the finished structure, can be done by hand. This will significantly reduce the cost of the estimate for the improvement of the garage.

A beautiful wooden garage door completes the facade of the house. In addition to their direct function, they serve as part of the overall decor and are often designed in accordance with the general style of the building. But the main thing that is required of them is reliability and durability.

Features of wooden garage doors

Unlike metal, wooden garage doors have to be assembled from separate small parts (boards). This greatly increases the labor and time required to fit and connect them. But the result is no less durable construction than metal.

Gate construction

To make wooden garage doors durable and not sag during operation, special parts are included in their design. A gate of any design consists of the following elements:

Sash frame. A rigid frame is required to evenly distribute the load when operating large sashes. Wooden parts cannot be joined in the same way as in welded structures, and they always retain little mobility. It can be eliminated with the help of stiffeners and jibs that prevent the free part of the sash from sagging.
Sheathing. Separate elements of the outer cover of the sash are designed to close the gaps between the frame parts, to prevent precipitation and strangers from entering the garage. There should be no gaps or gaps between the boards. The cladding also performs decorative functions.
Frames or boxes. This design detail is different depending on the direction of opening of the leaves and the device of the gate. It requires no less strength than from the frame and sheathing: all the mechanisms for hanging and opening are attached to the frame.
Mechanism. This part can be the simplest and most traditional - swing doors are installed on the hinges. In modern garages, both electric lifts and sliding sash rollers can be used.
Castle. For the safety of the car, garages are locked using different types of locks. These mechanisms prevent the doors from opening, and increased requirements are imposed on them: the safety of the car and other contents of the room depends on the strength and inability to open the lock.

Classification, advantages and disadvantages

The classification of different types of gates is carried out according to the method of fastening and the direction of opening of the leaves:

in hinged hinges they are located on the lateral parts of the doors, and they open forward and to the sides;
sliding doors have 1 solid sash that moves sideways, parallel to the wall;
for swing-lifting mechanisms, it unfolds the canvas from a vertical closed position to a horizontal open position, raising it to the ceiling;
folding and sectional consist of several separate sections connected by hinges, and the door opens horizontally or vertically by folding.

The choice of model depends on the size of the garage building: for sliding and swiveling ones, a lot of space is needed when moving the shield, and folding and swinging ones are also suitable for a small room.

Among the advantages of using wood in comparison with metal - ease of processing and assembly without special skills, decorative material. But wooden gates have disadvantages in comparison with metal:

fragility;
flammability;
susceptibility to decay.

The manufacturing features of each variety differ in the installation of the opening mechanism. But the main stages of assembling the frame and sashes, hanging them and installing the lock occur according to general principles.

What materials and tools are needed?

The most affordable wood material is pine: timber and boards from it are easy to purchase from construction firms at a relatively low price. If increased decorativeness is required from the gate, it is better to put beautiful and expensive species on the cladding: oak, spruce, birch, etc. Larch is especially resistant to decay, but larch from it is heavy and will require a solid frame around the perimeter of the gate opening.

To assemble a garage door you will need:

timber with a cross section of at least 5x10 cm;
boards 2.5 cm thick;
arrow hinges for swing gates or a suitable mechanism for another type;
garage lock;
steel corner, fastening screws for wood or nails;
electric saw;
a plane (it is better to take an electric one, since the amount of work is great);
puncher, screwdriver or hammer;
paints and varnishes;
measuring instruments.

Drawing creation and opening preparation

Drawings of the gate must be prepared in advance, based on the measurements of the opening for the vehicle entrance. If the room does not have a separate entrance for a person, it is rational to make a wicket in 1 wing. When drawing up the drawings, the number of shields that are assembled for garage doors with their own hands are also taken into account. When measuring the opening, take measurements in 2-3 places vertically and horizontally. A smaller value is taken for the width and height of the box. You can find out the dimensions of the sashes after installing the frame parts in the opening.

When measuring, unevenness of the walls may be detected. In case of large deviations, it is advisable to align the edges of the opening, removing the excess with a perforator (in a concrete building) or a saw, and then make new measurements. This must be done in order to fasten the frame not to the embedded elements, but to the main wall. If the irregularities are small, they can be filled with concrete or foam after the door has been installed.

Frame installation

You need to make it from a bar with a thickness of at least 10 cm so that the box can withstand the weight of the doors when they are opened. The frame is made by installing a horizontal beam on top and 2 vertical beams on the side parts of the opening. Fixation is made with anchor bolts to the walls inside the opening.

Wireframe creation

Having determined the size of the movable panels, a bar with a section of 5x10 cm is cut into parts for each sash or section:

2 sidewalls;
2 horizontal parts (top and bottom);
1-2 transverse stiffeners;
2-3 jibs (diagonals of rectangular fragments);
if necessary, a separate frame for the wicket door integrated into the sash frame.

The connection of the parts of the base is made by the half-wood method, choosing ½ the thickness of the bar at the ends of each part. In this case, a thorn is formed, and on the abutting part - a groove for it. When combined, the plane of the frame will be single, without parts protruding above it. For reliability, steel corners are additionally placed, fixing them with self-tapping screws.

Stiffeners can be embedded by selecting a piece of wood in the frame. Jibs are fastened with screws or nails.

Sheathing

So that there are no gaps between the cladding parts, an edged or profiled board is chosen. In the latter case, the material has a protrusion on one side and a groove on the other. When docked, you get a solid canvas.

Boards are cut into pieces according to the measure of width or height: they can be positioned both horizontally and vertically. For decorative gates, a diagonal arrangement is also used:

4 sides from the center;
herringbone;
in different directions on each of the 2 wings.

Fastening the sheathing to the frame is carried out with nails or wood screws.

Installation features

When installing wooden garage doors with your own hands, you should prefer arrow-shaped hinges with an elongated flap for the sash. This is a one-piece design, and the fastening is done first to the shield, and then to the box. The pad is nailed to the frame stiffener or its upper and lower crosspieces. Decorative hinges are placed on the outside, and simple ones can be fixed from the inside.

When hanging, take into account that the wood swells in damp weather. It is advisable to leave gaps between the box and the shutters about 1 cm wide.

Locks and bolts

Internal locks are often installed on garage doors, which are difficult to open from the street (bolts, hooks). Make a secure mortise lock on the built-in door. It is installed on the frame of the wicket, and a recess for the tongue is made in the frame of the gate.

Surface treatment and finishing

Even before installing the metal fittings, the entire front surface of the shield must be smoothly planed, eliminating the unevenness of the joints of the boards. After that, the wood, if desired, is impregnated with fire retardant, antiseptic compounds, covered with a stain. After such processing, they need to be dried, hung, and then covered with waterproof varnish along with decorative hinges. Particular attention should be paid to the processing of the end parts of the boards: moisture penetrates into them more easily than into the surface cut.

Nowadays, purchasing a solid garage structure is not a cheap pleasure. Do-it-yourself garage doors are cheaper to make, but certain knowledge and skills are required. It is also desirable to have the skill of welding. Therefore, how to make a gate for a garage with your own hands is a question that you need to understand thoroughly. And then it will already be possible to begin to fulfill the task.

Near a private house

Most users choose them for their compact size.

Advantages: convenience, protection against burglary, versatile in use. Disadvantages: high cost, folding structures are prone to deterioration.

Swing gates

The photo shows a swing design.

On a suburban area

Sliding gates

Rollback option

Up-and-over gates

These are the most practical and convenient vertical designs. When opened, the sheet of metal rises up and lies horizontally in the form of a visor. The design of such a mechanism is simple. The canvas is attached to the frame and moves around the axis, changing the horizontal position to the vertical one. Hinged gates are easy to use.

Lifting structure drawing

Advantages: resistance to corrosion and burglary, do not require additional space.

Comparison of characteristics

Guided by the indicators in the table, we can say that the choice is only up to the buyer. It all depends on cost and reliability. For example, swing and sectional models are well placed in a home garage, but they are not suitable for garage cooperatives, since they have a low degree of reliability.

Up-and-over garage doors are suitable for any building, but their main drawback is their high cost. Due to the low price for a private garage, swing gates are suitable. If necessary, they can be insulated, automated and reinforced with an additional sheet of metal. In addition, it is easy to weld a garage door at home.

Frame device diagram

The frame is made of a metal corner, which is welded along the entire perimeter of the doorway. Thus, the slope is trimmed inside and out. Between themselves, the inner and outer corners are welded with metal strips in several places. You should get a wireframe frame.

After the frame is ready, collapsible hinges are welded on the sides. The lower part must be connected with an outer corner, and the upper part with a frame frame. This design is also suitable for a garage from

Do-it-yourself lifting garage doors

Today, overhead garage doors are very popular, and they are also a convenient, reliable and practical protection for a garage, but at the same time, factory options are quite expensive. Opening with the help of a special mechanism, they take a horizontal position under the ceiling and move forward for a short length, thereby forming a small shelter in the form of a visor. As already mentioned, factory samples are quite expensive, but no one bothers to study the Internet resources for the independent manufacture of such gates, and armed with the necessary tools and drawings to make them with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of the lifting structure

The lifting structure perfectly fulfills the function assigned to it and has a number of indisputable advantages over other types of garage doors, but at the same time it is not without its disadvantages.

Advantages:

No additional opening space required. Unused space under the ceiling is used.
The one-piece construction of the blade provides reliable protection against penetration.
Any external decoration and decoration can be used.
The door leaf can be additionally insulated with expanded polystyrene.
It is possible to supply equipment for automatic opening.
Can be used in both single and double garages.

The disadvantages are primarily due to the design features of the lifting mechanism and the inability to do it otherwise.

Disadvantages:

Installation is only possible in rectangular openings.
In case of damage, a one-piece canvas must be replaced, since it does not imply partial repair.
When the door is open, the opening height decreases.
The gate mechanism is designed for a certain load and this should be taken into account when insulating.
Some complexity of installation.

The device and scheme of work of folding garage doors

The lifting (panel) gate system is a fairly simple mechanical device. The main and load-bearing elements are the frame, guides and a lever-spring mechanism that moves the sash. The mechanism can be controlled either manually or using an electric drive controlled by a remote control (remote control). When opening the gate, levers attached to the bottom of the sash are used, and two guides for the movement of the rollers, fixed at the top at the ends of the sash. Opening is carried out by lifting the lower part of the sash by the handle and is done quite easily, since the stretched springs of the lever mechanism help in opening the gate.

The scheme of the lifting mechanism

There are two types of overhead gate mechanisms:

Lever-spring is a fairly simple and reliable mechanism that is popular among garage owners. Mounting features: precise adjustment of the tension springs and high quality and precision mounting of the roller guides.
With counterweights - it is mainly used on doors with a large sash weight. The cable is attached to the bottom corners of the sash and runs through the block to a counterweight attached to the other end of the winch.

Lifting gate scheme

Lifting garage door drawing

When preparing a drawing for your opening dimensions, you should use ready-made solutions, slightly adjusting them to your dimensions. Here is an example of blueprints for making a gate:

Lifting gate drawing

Frame drawing, dimensions must be set according to your gate dimensions.

Frame drawing

What is required for manufacturing

For the manufacture of the sash frame, profile pipes of rectangular section with dimensions 40 * 20 and a wall thickness of 2 mm are most suitable. For transverse and longitudinal spars, we also use shaped pipes, but of smaller dimensions - namely 20 * 20 * 2 mm, to reduce the weight of the structure. For sewing up the front and inner sides of the sash, a profile sheet is best suited, since it is already coated with an anti-corrosion compound from the factory. You can also use galvanized sheet metal.

For guides, it is ideal to use a channel with a width of up to 20 cm. The size of the channel shelf depends on the width of the rollers used in your particular case. The box, to which the lever-spring mechanism is attached in the garage doorway, can be made of a wooden beam 100 * 50 mm. For these purposes, you can also use a metal corner with a shelf of 50 mm.

Sliding rollers and lever-spring rollers are purchased separately from a retailer specializing in sliding gates.

For thermal insulation of the gate, for reasons of price and quality, it is advisable to use expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 40 mm and a density of 15 to 25 kg / m 3.

Instruments

To work, the following tools should be at hand:

Bulgarian;
welding machine;
tape measure, pencil;
hammer;
screwdriver, screwdriver;
drill, drill;
set of wrenches;
level.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

How and what to insulate

Classic heaters used for these purposes are mineral wool and expanded polystyrene boards. Polyfoam compares favorably with a mineral plate in that it does not shrink over time. We will insulate the sash with 40 mm thick foam and 20 density. First, insert the foam without fastening into the sash in order to cut off all the necessary cuts to size. Styrofoam sheets are glued to the profile sheet from the inside between the side members on "liquid nails". Next, we fasten the inner plane of the sash with a sheet of galvanized sheet metal with self-tapping screws and a drill.

Insulation of the gate leaf with foam

Exploitation

For the convenience of using the garage door, an electric drive with a control unit can be installed to the existing opening system, which is operated by commands from the remote control. When purchasing an operator, make sure that it matches your type of gate.

In winter, rubber seals must be periodically lubricated with silicone grease to avoid freezing of the sash and damage to the seal when opening the gate. Also, periodically pay attention to the lubrication of the linkage system and the support rollers.

Video: homemade folding garage doors

Video: lift-and-turn structure

The lifting garage door system is simple to implement on its own, so almost any car owner with the skills of welding and working with metal is able to do this, the main thing is to be more careful with the installation of such critical elements as guides. From the beginning of work to the complete installation of the gate, you can manage it in 2 days if you call your friends or acquaintances to help you.

House

To ensure the long-term safety of the car, it must be stored in a place that will protect it from the effects of rain, frost, etc. But atmospheric phenomena are not the worst thing that can harm the car, so you should equip garages with reliable gates. Well suited for such a task, and also differ in the unusual design, swing overhead gates. Next, we will consider the features of their design, drawings and the sequence of manufacturing with our own hands.

Advantages, disadvantages and complexity of self-creation of overhead gates

The advantages of such designs include:

They are difficult to hack.
They open without the need for effort.
With the right technology, they are durable.
Maintain interior space.
Can be installed in various garage openings.

Disadvantages:

Difficulty doing the job.
The mechanical components of the structure can be overloaded.
High thermal conductivity.

Despite the need to have basic skills in handling a welding machine, as well as some other tools, almost everyone will be able to make pivoting lifting gates with their own hands. In the process of work, you need to use the correct drawings and do the work exactly with the specified data.

How does the structure work?

Frame features

List of the main parts of the swing overhead gate:

The frame is the main part of the entire structure, on which the rest of the elements are fixed.
Swing-type sash mounted in a steel frame.
Recoil spring - needed for manual closing.
Sash movement mechanism.

For the sash, it is better to use materials with low weight indicators - this will reduce the level of load on the structure, which will ensure its long-term and trouble-free operation.

Main structural elements

When making a door frame with your own hands, you need to be guided by the size of the garage opening. It is optimal to choose plank shields or wall panels as the material of the shutters (used for finishing structures). If insulation is required, it is better to use non-flammable materials.

It is especially important, before making it yourself, to decide on the type of mechanism that will move the sash from one position to another. It can be in the form:

A hinge-lever structure based on moving hinges along guides, the task of which is to move 2 levers in specific directions.
Counterweights that move the sash using a block system.

The second option is easier to make with your own hands, but it implies the need for more materials to create.

What do you need to do it yourself?

Example of a detailed drawing

To make a home-made swing-type swing gate, you need to prepare:

Welding machine (without its presence, the collection of the remaining items on the list is irrational).
Drill.
Spanners.
Roulette.
Screwdrivers.
Level.
The material for creating hinges and guiding components is a channel or corner.
Return springs.
Corners.
Brackets.
Counterweights.
Guide skids.
Cable.
Selected elements to create a sash.
Steel for finishing.
Profile pipe.

An example of a design with automation

Specific data on the amount of materials, their sizes and parameters must be taken from a specific drawing, selected or created for a specific garage.

The sequence of work to create a sliding garage door with your own hands

An example of execution with a drawing

Assembling the box. It looks like a U-shaped structure, built of 3 beams, buried in the mass of the screed of the reinforced concrete floor structure. The depth should be at least 2 cm. Plates or squares are used to secure the horizontal bar.
Installation of hinges. The upper bracket is mounted under the ceiling of the structure. To prevent jamming during operation, you need to make sure that after installing the bracket, its movement along the sash is completely free.
Sash manufacturing. Steel corners are cut to the required length and the frame is welded from them. When it is ready and the compliance with the opening has been checked, the sash elements are installed in the frame and fixed with self-tapping screws. As a rule, at this stage, insulation is immediately carried out. Next, you need to install rubber seals.
Installation of rails. This is the name of the part of the structure into which the hinge rollers are inserted. The location of the rails can be chosen depending on the characteristics of a particular garage: on the sides of the upper bracket or directly under the ceiling. Once installed, the rollers should move freely and smoothly.
Pre-assembly of the sash. This is necessary in order to indicate the places of fixation of the lifting mechanism in the sash.
Strengthening the hinge mechanism to the sash. To get started, you just need to attach the hinges and make sure that the levers move freely when the overhead gate moves. If this is not the case, check their correct location (they must be installed parallel to each other).
Installation of counterweights or springs. They are installed on a guide bracket. The springs should be installed to the right and left of the sash. They should also be parallel. Return type springs are required to ensure complete closure of the garage. If their characteristics are not enough for this, then experiment with a mass of counterweights.
Installation of steel linings. They are attached to the ends of the structure using self-tapping screws.
Plastering joints. To complete this step with your own hands, you can use ordinary cement mortar.
10. Installation of the lock.

When doing the work with your own hands, you need to make sure that it is performed in exact accordance with the selected or created drawing. Each process must be treated with full responsibility - a small mistake can cause problems with the operation of the mechanism. If you are not completely sure of the correctness of the work, it is better to read the special documentation or ask for advice from a professional who will help you navigate in a particular case.

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Overhead garage doors that rise to the ceiling are called sectional, because they fold in several places. In my version, as in many home-made gates with an upward rise, there are no sections, this is a one-piece gate that moves with two vertical and two horizontal guides. The lifting gates have two big advantages, they do not take up space, and they cannot be covered with snow, besides, it is much easier to automate them (to put a drive).

I will make the overhead gates to the garage from a 20x40 mm profile pipe, and sew it with a profiled sheet. The guides will also be made of the same profile pipe, along which the gate will roll on bearings.

Guide rail

I cut out a guide from a 20x40 pipe to insert the bearing on the axle.

Then I welded the frame of the gate from the same pipes, the size of the opening was 280 cm. The height was 230 cm, the corners were reinforced with a corner. A frame garage, in the process of construction, the opening is not yet limited from above, on the sides there are racks made of a board of 50 * 150 mm. I secured the vertical rails by tilting them slightly towards the inside of the garage to make the door easier to lift.

Gate bearings

I welded the bolts with bearings to the door frame, brought the bearing into the guide, the upper bearings and guides have not yet been installed.

Inside the garage.

So that the gate does not fall out of the guide downwards, I drilled a profile at the bottom and inserted a nail. The guide was screwed directly to the board.

Above the guide holds the corner

Then he sawed off the excess from the vertical guide, welded a bracket for the upper roller to the gate frame from above, and a bolt with a bearing had already been welded to it. I also put a horizontal guide, fixed it on brackets to the ceiling, and put a bearing into it.

Side view of the same unit, only from the other side of the gate

Photo of fastening with a horizontal rail bracket

The bracket is made of a profile pipe and fittings, welded to the rail

Adjusted the gate guides, sewn up with corrugated board. The garage is not yet insulated, there is only a frame, everything is done in parallel.

Sheathing with profiled sheet

Outside view, the corrugated board is not very even. Fastened it to roofing screws.

In order for the gate to rise easily, without effort, you need to put a counterweight, for this, through the blocks, I hung two buckets with screenings on a cable.

Gate block system

I use blocks like this

This is how the gate looks in the open position, raised up towards the ceiling.

Insulation of garage doors

The garage was insulated, there was a question about insulating the lifting gates, with our own hands. They cannot be made too heavy, so I will insulate them with extruded polystyrene foam. I will glue it on the mounting foam to the profiled sheet, for the reliability of fastening I will add more rails, which I attach to the roofing screws to the profile pipe of the gate itself.

After gluing the insulation, you need to press it until the foam dries. In this photo of the lifting gate, you can see the design of the counterweights, I redid it so that there is only one counterweight, and it is in the corner, for this I slightly altered the cables, and put additional blocks (1,2,3) Green arrows show the movement of the cables when the gate rises.

At the bottom, the cables are fixed to the brackets

Counterweights for lifting

A more detailed photo of the node where the cables from the gate counterweights come

So that the cables were the same, and the gate did not twist when lifting or lowering, I put the counterweight not to the cables, but to the same block that rolls freely along the cable, thereby ensuring a uniform tension of the cable, i.e. my cable consists of one solid piece, the ends of which are fixed at the bottom of the gate, and the load pulls by the loop through the blocks.

As a result, the lifting gates to the garage are insulated and equipped with counterweights.

I lift it manually for now, in the future I plan to put a drive with a remote control of the gate, of course I will do everything with my own hands.

This is how do-it-yourself lifting gates look from the inside in frost

Insulation 30 mm freezes, this thickness for the Urals is apparently not enough, most likely you will have to make another layer of 30 mm, the total will turn out to be 60 mm.

Exterior view UPD

The garage is tiled, the gates are almost completed, they look like this, we haven't got around to automating yet.

During the operation of the garage, we decided to put the door on the side of the gate, in winter to go out into the street, we had to raise the gate, this is not very convenient and the loss of heat.

In the raised position

The gate has been working for the second year (UPD from)

To make it warmer in the garage, they made a wood-fired stove from a barrel. See article

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Do-it-yourself garage overhead doors photos, drawings, and description

In the article, we will consider how to make a garage door with your own hands, the main advantage of such a gate is that when the garage opens, the sash moves to the ceiling in the garage, and this is much more convenient than in the case of a swing gate.

So, you decided to equip lifting gates in your garage, and do it yourself. The simplest design of overhead gates is the one that was installed on the shell-type garages. However, these doors have a technological gap from the door leaf to the opening. Naturally, this is unacceptable, since in our conditions the garage must be insulated, and the presence of even a small gap is completely inappropriate.

It is required that the adhesion of the closed gate to the opening is realized as tightly as possible, in addition, the presence of a wicket should be provided in the gate, so that in winter not to force cold air into the garage structure during the full opening of the gate.

Download the drawing of the garage door

For the manufacture of a garage door frame, you can use an aluminum profile, and for arranging a frame under a gate, you can use wooden blocks. From the outside, a profiled sheet or any other lightweight finishing material is attached to the gate frame with self-tapping screws.

After completing the specified actions, we get a gate in which the gate opens to the side of the street. The wicket must open exactly so that when the gate is raised, it does not open by itself (this is fraught with injuries).

The size of the gate is made larger than the length of the opening (by about 10 cm), This is done in order to ensure that there is no gap between the gate and the wall of the building (5 cm from the inner sides).

The lower part of the canvas on the sides needs to be equipped with wheels, I used wheels from ordinary roller skates. And so that they could easily move along the wall of the garage, I installed vertical guides: I bought a profile for mounting drywall (metal thickness 0.6 mm) from the UD hardware store (metal thickness 0.6 mm), and used it as guides. From the beginning I thought it would bend, but practice has shown that there is not a very large load on the sidewalls of the profile and it can withstand quite well.

The doors are suspended with chains (then replaced with metal strips of 25x4mm) on the front wall of the garage building in such a way that the center of gravity of the door leaf is lower than their fastening, and the location of the upper part is close to the opening.

To facilitate the lifting of the door leaf and to simplify its maintenance in the extreme upper position, it is necessary to provide the structure with a counterweight, the selection of which is made in accordance with the weight of the leaf. The roller axles are equipped with cables that must be passed through the blocks and loaded with a counterweight.

At the bottom of the gate, from the outside, a conventional door handle should be installed, which helps when closing and opening the gate, since it is convenient to use.

That's all about production technology. Using these instructions, you can easily build a lift-type gate in your garage.

A few more options for garage lifting gates -video

Lifting garage doors are the best way to solve the problem of free space. But the problem is the high cost of factory models. Therefore, if you have the desire, tools and supplies, you can make them yourself. What is required in order to make a do-it-yourself lifting gate to your garage? Instructions and drawings will help solve this issue.

Analysis of the manufacturing scheme

Unlike other options, it is not recommended to use the factory model drawing as a basis. In most cases, the blade is lifted using a complex system of counterweights and guides. It will be problematic to make such a gate design on your own. But some components can be taken from this drawing.

The bottom is a particular problem. Moving joints and an adjustable lift system can be tricky to make. Exit - fix the lower part of the door leaf using a roller system. The frame will act as guides. As a result, the circuit will be modernized for making the structure with your own hands.

Description of the principle of operation of a home-made overhead garage door:

The upper rollers are attached to the L-shaped profile pipes. The movement takes place along horizontal guides from a U-shaped profile.
Lifting is carried out using a counterweight. A hook is welded at the bottom of the gate, to which a steel cable is attached, leading to the roller at the top. The mass of the counterweight depends on the weight of the sash and its height, and is determined empirically.
Additionally, you can make a swing sash. For this, stiffeners must be welded onto the door frame.
The canvas is formed from aluminum or galvanized sheets. It is advisable to make insulation from the inside.

This is a general description of the principle of manufacture and operation of the structure. Details can be adapted to a specific opening, improve the functionality of the overhead door.

Required consumables

Most often, available material is used for manufacturing. Rolled metal can be purchased at points of delivery, use old structures, having previously disassembled them. It is necessary to check the quality of the workpieces - no mechanical deformation, rust or other defects.

For manufacturing, you will need the following materials and components:

The gate frame is made of a corner or channel. Thickness - from 50 mm and more. It must be taken into account that a layer of insulation and an inner lining will be installed.
The box has two functions - to fix the canvas and to be a guide for the rollers. To do this, it is recommended to take a channel 30 * 50 * 30 cm.
Top horizontal guides. They are also made from a channel, but in smaller sizes. Width depends on the selected rollers.
Rollers. There are no special requirements for them, it is important that the surface is rubberized.
Square pipes. Needed for the manufacture of additional structures.

The thickness of each component depends on the overall dimensions of the structure. The channel of the box must be at least 3 mm, the frame must be at least 1.5 mm. For installation, dowels are required; it is recommended to connect the elements of the overhead gates by welding. Mechanical fasteners will not provide adequate quality connections.

Sequence of work

After drawing up a drawing of an overhead garage door, you need to choose the right material and make blanks. Overall dimensions take into account the thickness of the weld. The opening is being prepared - aligning the walls, checking the dimensions horizontally, vertically and diagonally. The drawing is being corrected.

Work order:

Installation of the box and upper horizontal rails. The latter are attached to the ceiling of the garage.
A frame is made according to the dimensions obtained. It should not be 3-5 mm larger than the dimensions of the box. For a tight abutment, you can later install the sheet over the structure.
Installation on the frame of the lower and upper rollers.
Installation of the frame on guides with preliminary fixation.
Checking the operation of the gate. They need to be opened and closed several times.
Formation of a sheet of steel sheets.
Counterweight adjustment.

Only then can you start priming and painting. For safety, it is recommended to put a lock at the bottom.

In the overview video, you can see an example of making a similar design: