Do-it-yourself bath restoration technologies. How to restore the bath coating How to restore the bath enamel coating

A competently done enamel bath with your own hands makes it possible to save a lot of money that would have to be spent on the purchase of a new product and its installation.

Bathtub restoration - will it help restore its former beauty?

Over time, steel and cast iron baths begin to lose their attractive appearance. They become rough, gloss disappears from them, traces of corrosion appear in the bowl and smudges form that cannot be removed with household chemicals. In such situations, it becomes clear that the bathtub requires replacement, which costs a lot of money. Self-restoration (simple repair, often called restoration) of structures for the adoption of water procedures allows you to avoid serious costs.

The operational wear of the enamel coating is due to two reasons:

1. The use of various chemicals to clean the communications through which water enters the dwelling.
2. The use of cleaning compounds with chlorine additives and abrasive powders.

Under the influence of these aggressive preparations, the enamel on the cast iron bath deteriorates after 9–10 years of operation of the structure. Independent repair of the coating extends the time of use of the structure by another 6–10 years. In order to qualitatively restore a bathtub, you need to purchase special tools that ensure easy restoration of its enamel, as well as study the principles of performing repair work. We will talk about them in this article.

Note - all the proposed methods for restoring the coating of a cast iron bath are performed without dismantling the structure.

To date, the restoration of bathtubs on their own is carried out in the following ways:

• restoration of the bowl cover with liquid acrylic;
• applying new enamel (standard enameling compounds are used);
• restoration by mounting in a worn out insert shell.

Any of these methods show excellent results. If you make the repairs correctly, your updated bathtub will serve you for more than one year.

Simple enameling - an elementary way to restore

Repairing a bowl by applying a two-component enamel to its surface, which additionally includes a special hardener, is a fairly simple task. This operation is performed in two stages. First you need to prepare the surface of the bath:

1. Pour an abrasive powder onto the old coating and use a grinding wheel (it must be fixed in) or sandpaper (the work will have to be done manually) clean the bowl.
2. Treat areas with stubborn rust with compounds designed to transform corrosion stains. Then pour the rust converter on problem areas and leave them in this state for 30-40 minutes.
3. Rinse off the old enamel with water under pressure.
4. Use a lint-free napkin to degrease the bowl (any degreasing compound sold in building stores will do).
5. Pour hot water into the bath, leave for 10-15 minutes.
6. Drain the water and carefully wipe the bowl with the same lint-free napkin.

Now we are directly waiting for the restoration of the cast-iron structure (or steel). We take the purchased two-component enamel composition, combine its components (hardener and the enamel itself) in the proportions recommended by the manufacturer, and mix actively. When the composition is ready, apply it with a spray gun or on the surface of the bowl.

After that, you should wait a while (it is indicated in the instructions for the enamel composition) and reapply the enamel to the surface. In principle, the restoration of the coating is considered complete at this point. You will have to wait (do not use the bathroom for 6–8 days) until the enamel compound polymerization process is complete. The new coating, which provides the described restoration of the cast-iron structure, will serve you at least 6-8 years.

Liquid acrylic - a modern option

The bath can be restored using a new method. It involves the use of not two-component enamel, but a more effective glass, which is a special acrylic composition created to return enamelled metal structures to their former shine and beauty.

Stacril has several important advantages, it:

• is able to independently (with minimal participation of the person performing the repair of the structure) lie down in a perfectly even layer on the surface of the bowl and envelop it;
• characterized by an ideal viscosity index, providing a durable and reliable coating up to 6 millimeters thick.

Note that the impact and mechanical strength of the acrylic layer is significantly higher than that of standard enamel. Taking this into account, it becomes clear why the independent restoration of cast iron and steel structures today is increasingly carried out with the help of a glass. When using liquid acrylic, old enamel from the bowl is removed according to the scheme given above. There are no differences. After cleaning the bath, you only need to substitute a container for collecting excess acrylic under its drain and turn off the siphon.

The restoration itself will be performed like this:

• prepare the composition for restoration (strictly according to the recommendations of the manufacturer of the glass);
• start pouring it (very slowly) onto the top edge of the bowl;
• when the stream of solution reaches the middle of the bath, you need to start moving it (as smoothly as possible) around the perimeter of the structure;
• after completing a full circle, you should reapply the stacril according to the described method.

This type of restoration is called self-leveling. It should be performed continuously. Therefore, for liquid acrylic, you always need to take a large enough container so that the composition in it is enough for the entire bath. The excess glass will go into the drain, under which you put another container. The process of complete polymerization of acrylic compounds takes 24–96 hours. It all depends on what kind of mixture you buy.

Experts advise using formulations for which the drying time is as long as possible (3-4 days). They have been proven to provide a better and more durable surface that can last up to 18–20 years. One more subtlety. If you want to get a stacryl coating of any particular color, it is allowed to add about 2-3% tinting paste to the composition. It will provide the bath with a muted, light shade. Please note that more than 3% of the paste cannot be added, since the strength indicators of the stacryl layer in this case will significantly decrease.

Bath liner - an expensive but simple type of repair

People who do not want to dilute enamel or liquid acrylic, apply these compounds to the surface of the bowl, wait for their polymerization, you can advise ordering a special insert according to the size of your design for taking water procedures. Typically, such products are made in factories that produce bathtubs.

Having received the insert, you will need to perform a number of simple work:

1. Clean the bath and degrease it thoroughly.
2. Install the liner into the bowl (if you have specified its geometric parameters correctly, there are no problems with this procedure).
3. Cut the resulting product along the tile line on the wall.
4. Apply adhesive to the outer parts of the liner and to the inner bowls.
5. Carefully line up the drain holes of the bowl and liner.
6. Seal the joints with silicone.
7. Pour cold water into the tub with the insert installed for 24 hours.

After a day, drain the water - the repair is complete. Use your renovated bathroom for another 8-10 years!

No matter how expensive a bath is, it loses its appearance over time during use. Smudges and traces of corrosion appear on the surface. The enamel becomes dull, and to the touch it is no longer smooth, but rough. All this indicates the wear of the enamel and that the time has come for replacement. But do not rush to dismantle the equipment. With the help of modern tools, you can independently return the bath to perfect condition. Bath enamel restoration is performed even at home.

And why bother restoring a bathtub when you can just buy a new one? Yes, that's right. But a new product is quite expensive, especially if it is good, cast from cast iron. You can also buy traditional metal - it is cheaper. But such a product is inconvenient. When water is drawn into it, this is accompanied by rather loud sounds - the walls of apartment buildings are thin, which means that these sounds will be heard not only by all residents of the apartment, but also by neighbors.

After acquiring a new bathtub, you also need to install, while the old one should be dismantled, and this is not so simple. These works are accompanied by a large amount of garbage, and the process of dismantling and installation is quite difficult. A woman can't handle it. But she will be able to restore the bath with improvised means.

Enamel for baths gives not only an aesthetic appearance, the coating protects the bowl from the effects of aggressive substances, water. Metal, on which there is no paint and varnish or enamel layer, will quickly lose its performance, then corrosion will begin to form in the damaged area, which will eventually spread over the entire surface. It may not be possible to completely remove the rust, but drastic changes in the appearance of the product are a reality.

Restoration methods

If replacement is not an option, then let's see how to restore bath enamel. This is a laborious and rather lengthy process of applying the enamel layer to the surface of the bowl without dismantling. Three technologies are now widely applicable:

• Repair with an acrylic liner;
• Coating with liquid acrylic;
• Coated with epoxy enamel.

Using the bath insert

A repair with an acrylic insert means fixing an acrylic insert inside the bowl. The insert is fixed in the bath on the foam and sealant. This is an effective method, but costly. The advantage is quick installation. The cost of an acrylic insert is 50-60% of the price of enameled baths and some cast iron ones.

Liquid acrylic coating

The method with liquid acrylic is the so-called bulk bath. This restoration method is used for restoration work with plumbing bowls completely by hand. The materials are relatively affordable and the application method is simple. The difficulty is to obtain a high-quality and homogeneous mixture, since the components for the compound are in different states of aggregation.

Epoxy enamel coating

Epoxy coating the bowl surface is the most affordable and inexpensive way to restore. So, a new layer of epoxy enamel is applied to the bowl with a roller or brush. The downside is the drying time of the composition. For complete polymerization of the dye, at least 5-7 days are needed.

In the video: three ways to restore the bath.

People's technologies

Along with professional types, there are also folk recipes. They are no worse, but such repairs are simpler and more affordable.

Solution # 1

The first step is to apply a primer. We'll have to come to terms with the unpleasant smell, but if you buy soil in an aerosol can, then the smell is more than bearable. Before starting work, the cylinder is shaken until the ball knocks on the bottom evenly, constantly and distinctly. Then the mixture is applied to the entire inner surface. After application, the primer is allowed to dry completely.

Next, the surface must be covered with enamel. You can buy special products, but can enamel is no worse. Stir the components according to the material manufacturer's instructions, and then cover the surface with a swab or small roller.

It must be remembered that one coat is not enough - the coating must be applied in three coats. Before the next layer, the previous one must dry. It is important to provide a dry microclimate in the room, otherwise everything will crack.

To restore shine, a few hours after enamel coating, the entire surface is wiped with a solvent - it will make the top layer smooth and glossy. You can also polish the bowl with GOI paste, but it is better to do this not immediately, but after two or three days. Thus, do-it-yourself enameling of baths is performed.

Solution # 2

Restoration of the enamel coating of the bathtub, if there are chips on the surface, can also be done quickly and easily. To do this, mix BF-2 glue together with dry whitewash. Then this composition is applied with a brush in several layers. Layers are applied followed by drying each. This repair is simple and quick. But you need to remember - the last layer should be strictly on the same level with the enamel level of the entire part of the bowl. Bumps and pits are not allowed.

Solution # 3

This method can be used to renew bowls with significant scratches. For work, you will need Supercement glue and nitro-enamel to match the color of the thicket. The compositions are mixed in the same proportion. Then, using a brush, apply to a chip or scratch.

There is no exact number of layers - they are applied as much as needed to level the surface. Each layer is applied 24 hours after the previous one.

If you have not been able to purchase glue, then epoxy will do. It is mixed with whitewash, the remains of porcelain in powder form. Next, these components are mixed in a ratio of 2 to 1. First comes the resin, and then the powder. The advantage of this composition is its strength after drying. The mixture dries within 5-6 days, and it will stay on the surface for up to 6 years.

Conventional enameling

Cast iron plumbing bowls and enamelled steel products are very common. They are manufactured in accordance with GOST-18297-96. Service life in accordance with GOST - 2 years. The enamel remains on the surface for up to 10 years. At the factory, they are covered with enamel by heating the thickets red-hot. Then enamel powder is poured into the bowl and wait for the powder to sinter with the metal. Then the surface is heated again to flatten the coloring powder. The result is a smooth, glossy, enameled finish.

At home, this will not work, let's see how to restore the enamel of the bath on our own. What will be needed for restoration work? Restoration requires the use of consumables and tools:

• drill with grinding wheel;
• powder abrasive;
• emery;
• rust converter;
• degreaser;
• lint-free napkins;
• natural brushes or spray;
• individual protection means;
• two-component enamel.

Preparatory process

It is worth remembering that preparation is an important step. The better the preparatory work is done, the better the enamel layer of the renewed bowl will be. The process includes the following stages:

1. The old coating is sprinkled with abrasive powder and cleaned off with an emery or a drill.

2. Treating rusty areas - using a rust converter.

3. Abrasives and enamel are washed off with water. The surface is thoroughly degreased and wiped with napkins.

4. Pour hot water into a bowl and let it stand for about 10 minutes. The water is drained and wiped dry.

Enamel application

To restore an enamel or cast iron bath with your own hands, mix the enamel and hardener and stir the mixture. The first layer is applied with a brush or spray. Then a second coat is applied and leveled with a roller. This is how we restore the state and appearance of the bowl.

Restoration with liquid acrylic

In this case, a means for restoring enamel of baths - "Stakril" will be used. The composition is an acrylic two-component material specially designed for use with sanitary bowls. The mixture is two-component and is acrylic and hardener. When these two substances are mixed, polymerization will begin, and after application, the material turns into a high-quality acrylic film with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm.

Enamel restoration consists of simple steps:

1. Preparation of the surface of the bowl is no different from the previous method.

3. The reducing agent is prepared according to the instructions, the two components are mixed.

4. Then slowly pour the finished composition onto the top edge of the bowl.

5. When the jet is in the middle, it is smoothly moved around the perimeter. When the circle is closed, the procedure is repeated.

Polymerization, depending on the type of substance, will take from one day to four days. Experts recommend choosing a long-drying composition. You can forget about scratches and chips in the bathroom for at least 20 years.

Technology implies continuity - it is better to prepare a large container for the substance. It is not worth saving, you need to cover like this: the more, the better. The excess will go into the drain hole.

Recovery with liner

This is the easiest and most expensive way. Unlike enameling bathtubs with your own hands, you won't be able to do everything on your own. These products are produced in industrial plants. You can order an insert for a bath, and install it yourself.

The bath renovation process is as follows:

1. First, clean and degrease the surface of the bowl.
2. Insert the liner to check the correct alignment of the holes.
3. The product is trimmed along the tile line on the wall. Then glue is applied over the bowl. Do not forget about the outer side of the liner.
4. Next, the bowl and liner are joined. Additionally, sealing is performed using silicone.

After installing the liner, the container is filled with cold water and waited for a day, and then a new bath can be used. According to the assurances of manufacturers, this method is more effective than enamel coating, and the service life will be 10 years.

This is how an old plumbing bath is being restored. There are a lot of ways - it remains to choose how to update. It is easier and cheaper to use enamelled enamel technology.

Bath enamel and acrylic coating (3 videos)

All options for restoring the bath (30 photos)

If you do not have the opportunity or special desire to change the enamel bathtub, which has lost its attractive appearance, then you can resort to its restoration. Depending on what material you choose to renew the enamel, the question of buying a new bathtub will be postponed for up to 20 years! In this article, we will tell you how to restore the bath enamel with your own hands after acid or deep chips.

It is worth noting that the factory enamel is called primary, and the enamel of the restored bath is called secondary.

Enamelled bathtubs are made of steel or cast iron. After the protective layer of the enamel is destroyed, the metal frame corrodes. Over time, under the paint and varnish layer, rust spreads over large areas, which can not only spoil the appearance of the product, but also the plumbing fixture itself. If defects are not eliminated in a timely manner, moisture penetrating inside will lead to severe damage.

Required tools

Materials and tools:

1. A common household cleaning agent.
2. Sanding moisture resistant paper.
3. Two-component putty.
4. Enamel or other material for bowl restoration.

In order to eliminate small defects, it is necessary to thoroughly process the sharp edges of the chip. This is done using a moisture-resistant skin, pre-moistened with water. After sanding, the surface should be wetted with a swab dipped in acetone, white spirit or any other solvent. The bath must be free of fat, clean and dry. The enamel is applied in thin layers, and each of them must dry well.

Enameling

The independent enameling process consists of applying the enamel using a spray gun or a specially designed brush. However, first, you should prepare the surface for enameling. The process consists of the following stages:

1. Apply a chlorine-free scrubbing powder to the old enamel.
2. Sand the bath with moisture-resistant paper or a drill and sanding disc along with the powder. It is especially important to thoroughly clean the surface of rust stains.
3. Rinse off any abrasive grit from cleaning the bowl.
4. Degrease the bath.
5. Warm it up. To do this, fill a bowl with hot water and let it sit for 10 minutes.
6. Now you need to drain the water and dry the tub thoroughly to get a matte, completely dry surface.

Note! Bath should be enameled very carefully! Bubbles and smudges should not form in the process! Violations of technology will lead to peeling of the enamel when it dries.

Enameling takes about three hours. The enamel should be applied in layers at intervals of 20 minutes. There should be at least 2 coats. However, for best results, 4 coats of enamel should be applied. Ordinary bath enamel dries for about 7 days. Do not be fooled by quick-drying types of coatings, as they are not very reliable.

Glass restoration

The technique of restoring a bath with liquid acrylic was developed not so long ago. This became possible thanks to the emergence of a new material, the so-called glass. What is this innovative tool? It is an acrylic two-component material that was specially invented to restore bath enamel. It consists of acrylic and a special hardener. In the process of combining these two components, polymerization begins. After the stacril is applied, it turns into a high quality 6mm acrylic film.

Thanks to the excellent properties of the product, you can quickly and efficiently restore your bath:

• The material is viscous, which makes it possible to make a coating with an optimal thickness of about 6 mm without much effort.
• The fluidity of the glass gives the effect of enveloping the surface, due to which the material lays down as evenly as possible.
• Slow polymerization allows work to be carried out efficiently and without haste, since the glass will not thicken earlier than the stipulated time. As a result, the bath bowl will be much stronger than if it were enamelled or fitted with a liner.

Glass restoration technology is simpler than enameling. First, you should prepare the bath, this is done in the same way as when applying secondary enamel. However, you must first disconnect the siphon and overflow. Place a container under the drain, where excess acrylic will subsequently drain.

Now you need to prepare the acrylic mixture by combining the glass with a hardener. Do this according to the instructions attached to the material. Then slowly pour the prepared mixture onto the top of the bowl. After the jet reaches the middle of the bowl, smoothly move it around the perimeter of the bath. After the circle is complete, repeat the steps starting from the middle.

The filling process must be continuous. Do not try to save money, because such a restoration will lead to a waste of material resources. Better to let the excess go into the container under the drain hole.

Note! Acrylic polymerizes depending on its type, usually this period ranges from 1 to 4 days. It is better to buy a glass with a longer drying time, since this is the surface that will be of high quality! The service life is approximately 20 years!

Acrylic liner insert

The technology of inserting an acrylic liner is also known as a bath in a bath. The financial costs will be higher than with standard enamelling. It is also worth noting that the procedure cannot be carried out at home, since the acrylic liner is made on industrial equipment.

The insert is molded in accordance with the measurements made for a particular bath bowl. The color and shape can be very diverse. The finished product must be inserted into an old bath. The drain holes fit together. And then both bowls are fastened with an adhesive, which is first applied to each of the surfaces. The insert is cut at the level of the tile, and you can already seal the joints yourself with silicone.

Note! Both the production and installation of the acrylic liner should be carried out by specialists, because even the smallest deviation from the technology can lead to depressurization of the bowls and the subsequent formation of fungi that are hazardous to health.

After the acrylic liner is installed, fill a new bowl with cold water and leave it for 24 hours. The bath is now ready for use. It should be noted that the service life of the liner, subject to all the rules for caring for it, is at least 5 years.

Do you already have experience in enamel restoration? Which of the above methods have you applied? What difficulties did you encounter during the restoration process? What helped you cope with them? Write your comments to the article! Your experience can be useful to many!

Over time, any thing comes to a state far from its original appearance. The same fate befell the bathroom. And despite the most careful care and the use of advertised cleaning products, you soon begin to notice scratches, stains, chips on your bathroom. The color fades or is hidden under a coating of dirt and rust.

And so you start to think about changing the bathroom. Of course, such thoughts may be dictated by the need to re-plan the bathroom, change all plumbing and others. And if your bath suits you in all respects, and the purchase of a new bath does not fit into the family budget, then there is a solution that will help to kill several birds with one stone. This solution is to renew the enamel of the bathroom.

How are we going to restore?

Today, there are two ways to restore the bathroom cover. Either special enamels for the bathroom are used, which have high wear resistance, or acrylic liners are used. Let us briefly dwell on the characteristics of each method.

Enamels.

They are sold in aerosol cans or in special containers and resemble regular paint. What is the difference between these enamels? Firstly, in terms of service life. Aerosol enamel, due to the high solvent content in itself (so that the paint can be well sprayed from the can), will have a shorter service life. For this parameter, it is better to give preference to enamels in containers.

But in terms of ease and speed of application, the advantage is for aerosol enamels. There are times when it is necessary to urgently carry out cosmetic repairs, and at the same time, durability does not really matter. Here, of course, aerosol enamel will help you. You can easily cover even the most inaccessible places with it in a short time. No paint drips or lint from the brush. Even coverage will save you a little trouble. Although it will not last so long.

Before buying enamel, consult about its brand. Now we offer a wide selection of enamels from both domestic and foreign manufacturers.

Liners.

Bath liners are made of high-strength acrylic. Manufacturers offer their customers not only white or transparent colors. You can choose a pale blue, light pink or light green color. Fancy color solutions are also possible. It all depends on your wishes and financial capabilities.

Installation of the acrylic liner is less time consuming. It is made to measure for your bathroom and then simply inserted into the old bathtub. The liner is attached using a special adhesive mixture. She pre-processed the surface of the bathroom and the surface of the liner. Then they are pressed tightly together. At the same time, the bathtub will not decrease in size, it will not become narrower. The liner is quite thin on the sides. The only changes that will occur to the bathtub are that it will rise up to 2 cm from the inside of the bottom and become like new. Installation work takes about two hours. The service life of the liner is quite long.

The process of direct restoration of bathroom enamel is conventionally divided into three stages:

Cleaning and preparation of the bath surface;
- priming the bathroom surface;
- applying new enamel to the bathroom surface.

As a rule, it is enough just to read the instructions for the materials from the purchased kit to restore the surface of the bath and follow it carefully. We will describe this whole process step by step.

Cleaning and preparing the bathroom

Preparatory work begins with the fact that we clean the bath from a layer of old enamel, which is no longer so strong, from scratches, chipping and marks rust. We take cleaning powder, sandpaper (preferably waterproof) or abrasive stone and carefully process every centimeter of the bathroom. This stage is very time consuming and requires a lot of patience and a lot of time. Do not forget that when working, you must use protective equipment - thick rubber gloves and a respirator.
Rust stains can be difficult to remove with cleaning powder alone (otherwise they would not exist). Oxalic acid can be used for these areas of the bathroom. Just take the slightly aggressive version. Mix the acid with water to a state of gruel and apply with a piece of cloth to problem areas. Now you have half an hour to rest. After that, return to the bathroom and thoroughly wash off the acidic gruel.

For reliability, you can fill the bathtub with hot water and let it stand for 10-15 minutes. After that we drain the water and rinse the bath, let it dry well. The bath should dry until moisture completely disappears from the pores of the material. Otherwise, the coating will not fit well. To do this, use a fan or dry the bath with a hairdryer.

Bath surface priming

The well-dried bath surface should now be primed. The meaning of the application is the same as when pasting wallpaper or plastering walls - to improve the adhesion of the topcoat to the surface to be treated.

Brushed primers have several disadvantages. First, there is a very strong smell, which has nothing to do with the aromas of French perfume. So you can't go to the bathroom for a couple of days without holding your breath. And secondly, it is necessary to ensure that no brush bristles remain on the primed surface of the bath. But the good is now there are primers in aerosol cans.

If you are using an aerosol primer, remember to shake the can thoroughly before use. Do this until you hear the ball knocking evenly inside the balloon. This means that the composition is well mixed.

During the application of the primer, make sure that bubbles do not appear on the surface of the bath. Otherwise, after applying new enamel, it will peel off and peel off. After applying the primer, allow the surface to dry thoroughly again.

Application of restoring enamel to the bath surface

And finally, your suffering is coming to an end, since this is the last stage of the work. While the primer was drying on the bathroom, you already managed to pick up the enamel. Again, if you cannot make a choice on your own, sales consultants in building supermarkets or good hardware stores will always help you. As we already mentioned, it is better to opt for enamel, which is packaged in cans, and not in aerosol cans.

To apply enamel from a can, stock up with a brush, mohair roller or, in extreme cases, a cloth sponge. The tool must be new. Of course, it is better to take a roller, since the brush bristles can stick together and then leave visible grooves. And it will be more convenient for you to work with a roller.

So, we apply the enamel in several layers (up to 3). Each previous layer must dry thoroughly. It's at least half an hour. And only then can you start applying the next layer of enamel. Make sure to apply evenly layers of enamel. If there is high humidity in the bathroom and you use a heater, be careful. This can cause stains or even cracks on the surface of the bath due to sudden changes in temperature and humidity.

Complete drying of the applied enamel will occur in a week, but you can see the first results in a couple of hours. Therefore, think in advance about where you will swim, as this week is not worth soaking the surface of the bath. When the bath is completely dry, it can be given extra shine by polishing the surface with a polishing paste applied to a piece of flannel.

Renovated bathroom care

A bathtub with acrylic liners is washed with a damp cloth or a soft sponge with ordinary laundry soap. It is enough just to regularly wipe the acrylic surface in such a way that no dirt and rust remains on it.

After enameling the bathtub should be protected from getting on its surface of various types of varnishes (hairspray too). Such a bath should be washed with gentle powders. Never do this with scouring powders with abrasive particles. The use of acid-based formulations is also not recommended. If you are used to soaking linen in an old bathroom, and you are not going to give up such an undertaking even in a new bathroom, then at least give up bleach. Otherwise, he will quickly do his "dirty deed" on the new coating and it will be damaged.

"How can you wash such a bath then?" you ask reasonably. Use detergent or dishwashing detergent, regular soap solution. Forget about brushes and brushes, hard sponges. Only soft rags or foam sponges. Yes, maintenance is more laborious and often you will have to devote more time to cleaning the bathroom. But this is how you can protect the restored bath from re-aging and extend the life of the applied coating.

Even in the most expensive and high-quality bathtub, the top coat loses its original shine over time.

Household chemicals, regularly falling solid objects, as well as rust, chlorine and other reagents contained in water do their job - the enamel tarnishes, becomes covered with rusty streaks and becomes disgustingly rough to the touch.

Of course, it is impossible to put up with this, but it would be wasteful to throw away the bath because of such defects, because the main material is still quite efficient. Fortunately, there is an opportunity to give this most useful sanitary appliance a second youth and flawless appearance.

From this article, the reader will learn how to restore enamel in the bathroom with his own hands at home and what measures to take so that the new coating lasts as long as possible.

To work, you need a kind of "restorer's kit", which includes the following tools and materials:

1. Abrasive tool: The easiest option is sandpaper. But it is better to use the means of mechanization - a grinder with a grinding wheel or a drill with the same attachment.
2. Vacuum cleaner: spray or flat brush with natural bristles.
3. Lint-free wipes or rags.
4. Gloves and respirator designed to protect against three media or organic solvent vapors.
5. Powder cleaning compound - also with an abrasive effect.
6. Means for combating rust (often use the composition of the brand "Tsinkar").
7. Means for degreasing surfaces. You can use baking soda slurry or some kind of solvent, for example, "Nefras". Aggressive detergents like Pemolux are also suitable for this purpose.

If you still decide to work with sandpaper, get a holder for it that resembles a plaster float. It is equipped with screw clamps and a comfortable handle, which makes sanding work much easier.

Preliminary work

It is impossible to immediately cover the bathroom with a new composition.

Before applying a new coating, the surface of the bath must be properly prepared.

In this case, the restored bath will last a long time.

This is done like this:

1. All dirt is thoroughly washed off from the inner surface of the bath. In the choice of products, you can not hesitate - the most abrasive powders and the most active detergents will do. After washing, for reliability, you can walk with a degreaser.
2. After drying, rusty areas, if any, must be treated with a rust inhibitor. Typically, the holding time is about half an hour.
3. Now the already worn old enamel needs to be scratched even more. For this, an abrasive tool was prepared. The rougher the surface, the easier it will be for the new coating to catch on. It is necessary to work well with rusty streaks - after treatment with "Tsinkarem" they should completely disappear. Those who have chosen a grinder to perform this operation should be careful: having gone into a rage, this tool can easily make a hole in the thin walls or bottom of the bath. Particular attention should be paid to safety precautions. To avoid harmful dust getting into your lungs, carry out work in a respirator. Always wear safety goggles when abrading with a power tool. The grinder is especially dangerous for the eyes.
4. All that has been scraped off must be thoroughly washed off. Then the surface of the bath is degreased again and rinsed again. At the same time, the quality of degreasing is checked: the water flowing down the walls should not collect in droplets.
5. Then the bath is dried (to speed up the process, you can wipe it with napkins or blow it with a regular hair dryer) and release it from the strapping. If there are deep cracks or chips on the surface, they must be repaired with a quick-drying auto-putty.
6. Immediately before applying the coating, the object of the restoration should be vacuum cleaned (without the use of attachments).

Some coatings, such as acrylic enamels, are designed to be applied to a warm surface. In this case, the bath must be filled with hot water before starting the restoration work and left for 10 - 15 minutes. Then the water must be drained, and the bath must be freed from the drain fittings and quickly dried with a hairdryer.

To keep it from cooling too quickly, the room must be warm enough. Also, the bath can be heated with infrared heaters.

Despite the fact that the acrylic bathtub is not very heavy and durable compared to the cast-iron version, this type of plumbing is becoming more and more popular, largely due to its design. Let's explain it with our own hands.

Faucets of which company will serve you for many years, you will find out in the review.

Have you started a major overhaul in your apartment and decided to remodel the bathroom? Then the following topic will probably be useful to you:. Read about how to organize the piping in the bathroom with your own hands.

Methods

It's time to move on to the most important stage. There are three ways to restore the lost charm to the bathtub.

Enameling

Within the framework of this method, the bath is coated with enamel - a special compound, the main element of which is epoxy resin.

It is better to choose a 2-component mixture that includes a hardener in addition to the main compound.

When choosing enamel, you should not save money - expensive compositions greatly simplify the work. The products of the Finnish company Tikkurila have proven themselves well.

These enamels reliably adhere to the base and harden relatively quickly. In the economy class, the enamels Epoxin and Epovin demonstrate good characteristics. Their disadvantage is a long drying period, which takes up to 4 days.

It is important to choose the right enamel color. After enameling, the old coating will show through in places, so the difference between its color and the color of the new coating should be no more than 1 tone. If you want to change the color radically, for example, put snow-white on turquoise enamel, you will have to enamel in several steps with a smooth transition from tone to tone. In this case, the preparatory procedure will also need to be repeated each time.

The enamel is applied in the following order:

1. Prepare a mixture for the first layer (there will be two of them). We take half of the compound and hardener and mix them according to the recipe. From that moment on, everything must be done quickly, since the finished enamel loses its fluidity in just 30 - 45 minutes. Moreover, you need to be guided by this time even if the manufacturer promised you a whole hour - as practice has shown, the information on the packaging does not always correspond to reality.
2. Moving from the edges to the center, apply the composition with a brush. Previously, a container must be placed under the drain hole. The brush should move either longitudinally or transversely. At the bottom, especially near the drain, we lay a thicker layer.
3. After applying the 1st layer immediately (without waiting for drying), prepare and apply the 2nd.
4. After a 15-minute pause, rub the resulting drips and drops, moving the brush from the bottom up. It is important not to be late here: if the coating has time to grab, it will be impossible to eliminate the influxes.
5. After a week, when the process of drying and polymerization of the enamel is completely completed, you need to cut off the drops formed on the edge of the drain hole and install a drain.

The service life of the epoxy coating is 6 - 8 years.

Epoxy enamels are highly toxic, therefore a respirator must be worn when working with them. It is also necessary to provide ventilation of the room.

Restoration with Stakril

Acrylic-based enamel is stronger and more durable. It also comes with a hardener. Produced under various brands, the most famous of which are Stakril, AlfaVanna and EcoVanna.

Such a coating not only has better performance characteristics, but is also easier to apply, since it remains fluid longer (delayed polymerization effect) and is less toxic.

Restoration of enamel with glass

The drying period of the compositions of various brands varies from 1 to 4 days. It is important to take into account that long-drying enamels provide a more reliable and high-quality restoration.

"Liquid acrylic" is poured in two passes. First, it is poured in a continuous stream onto the side, moving along the perimeter of the bath. Before starting work, you need to substitute a container under it to collect excess enamel. The second run is pouring acrylic from the center to the edges (you need to move along a spiral path).

You do not need to worry about any kind of relief formations like rises or drops - they will disappear by themselves.

During drying, the fresh coating must be completely insulated from small debris, moisture and dust. Subject to the application technology, it will last about 15 years.

Acrylic liner insert

This method is the most expensive, but it is the simplest. In addition, the bathroom can be used the very next day after the restoration.

To select the correct insert, you need to carefully measure the inside of the bath.

Together with the liner, it is necessary to purchase a special foam on which it will need to be planted.

The insert is installed in the following order:

1. The drain and overflow holes should be carefully outlined with chalk or pencil.
2. Now you need to put the liner in the bath and press it more tightly against the inner surface. Above the insert should be outlined with a simple pencil, using the edges of the bath as a ruler.
3. Next, the insert is removed and cut along the lines drawn with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Holes must be cut along the circles that were printed when the plastic came into contact with the drain and overflow.
4. The edges of the bath along the entire perimeter are coated with silicone sealant. In the same way, you need to process the edges of the holes. Everything else needs to be covered with foam, which was sold with an acrylic insert. Make sure that the composition is distributed over the entire surface - in places where it is absent, acrylic will sag and even crack.
5. The insert is installed in the bath, pressing it tightly against it.

Installing the acrylic liner in the bathtub

Immediately after this, you need to install the piping and fill the bath with water. The weight of the water will prevent the foam from swelling as it cures. After a day, the water can be drained - the bath is ready for use.

Features of using the restored bathroom

To make your new coating last longer, follow these guidelines:

1. Avoid dropping heavy objects into the bathtub.
2. It is better to wipe the acrylic enamel coating after each use with a dry cloth or rag.
3. Do not use abrasive powders to clean the bath.
4. Do not soak laundry with bleach in a restored bath.

We are forced to upset the lovers of salt baths: if dyes are present in the composition of the salts, they will have to be abandoned.

If a fungus is found in the bathroom, you need to start removing it as soon as possible, because mold adversely affects the health of the inhabitants of the apartment. Our helpful tips will help you.

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