Dracaena hung leaves what to do. Why dracaena lowered the leaves. Varieties of dracaena - photo gallery

Typical diseases of dracaena and their effective treatment with an explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.

Why do dracaena drop leaves? Causes may be the following: the plant goes through a period of acclimatization after purchase, a transplant was carried out with soil replacement, which violated the integrity of the root system, and the irrigation mode was incorrect.

Only a purchased plant must undergo a period of acclimatization under the new conditions. Dracaena is no exception. The level of illumination in the new room, humidity and air temperature - all this can affect the well-being of the flower. No need to worry if dracaena is only purchased and it has lowered leaves. For prevention, you need to inspect the plant carefully. If there are no pests on it, the root system is in order, the trunk does not rot - there is no need to take drastic measures. Experts recommend not replanting the flower within 1 month after purchase. After this period, transplant by transshipment and strictly follow the rules for caring for dracaena. As practice shows, all dracaena lower the leaves after the purchase. This is a normal occurrence. In a healthy flower, only the crown, that is, young leaves, will look up.

Dracaena dropped leaves immediately after transplantation. This indicates a violation of the root system of the flower, namely, very thin roots that form a spider web at the bottom of the pot. They are involved in plant nutrition and provide the plant with water. It is not recommended to transplant dracaena in a complete replacement of the soil. She is more likely to transship in a larger pot. Thus, the root system will not be injured.

However, if the transplant has already been carried out and the dracaena has lowered the leaves, while its lower leaves can turn yellow intensively, the following steps need to be performed: spray the flower with a cyclone (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water) and place it under the greenhouse or a spacious cap. Leaves should not touch the walls of the greenhouse. At the same time, watering is significantly reduced. Before the next watering, the ground in the pot should completely dry (you can 1 time in 2-3 weeks). On the contrary, it is necessary to spray the flower very often with ordinary water in order to maintain high humidity under the greenhouse. The number of sprayings depends on the room temperature. The colder the less often. Cycron can only be used once a week. At the first watering, the cyclone must be added to water for irrigation. This stimulates the growth of the root system. After a transplant with a violation of the root system, dracaena lacks moisture. At the same time, intensive watering will lead to decay of the root system. The plant will replenish the lack of moisture through the crown. That is why in a greenhouse they maintain high humidity.

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Reason: Wrong watering mode. In the first case, the amount of moisture is simply not enough for the plant to maintain normal leaf turgor. In the second - there is too much moisture, which led to the decay of the root system. Through damaged roots, the plant also does not receive enough moisture. Increasing the number of irrigations will not solve the problem.

If dracaena lowered leaves due to lack of moisture, what should I do? It is necessary to place the flower under the greenhouse and conduct regular spraying. It is impossible to sharply increase the amount of watering, as this will harm the roots. Keep the plant under the greenhouse for 3-5 days. Watering the flower should be plentiful, but only after the earth coma is completely dry. Water from the pan must be removed.

Dracaena gets an excess of moisture. As a result, the root system does not cope with an excess of fluid and begins to rot. Damaged roots no longer absorb moisture from the ground, and therefore dracaena lowers the leaves. What to do? First of all, normalize watering. Next, you need to carefully, without violating the integrity of the root system, remove the dracaena from the pot by the trunk. Inspect the roots. If the root system is light yellow or white, but not brown, it is healthy. The plant is returned back to the pot and reduce watering. Watering should be plentiful, but only after the soil has completely dried in a pot.

If the dracaena lowered the leaves and its roots are soaked, flabby and have an unhealthy shade, this indicates rotting. Damaged roots are removed. The plant is transplanted into a new, special, slightly moist soil. Dracaena is placed under a greenhouse. Watering is minimized, and spraying, on the contrary, is speeded up. Can be added to spray water for cyclone. The plant is removed from the greenhouse when it begins to drive out new leaves.

Why do dracaena dry tips of leaves? Reasons: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime is violated, heavy soil.

Dracaena is a photophilous flower, and therefore its tips of the leaves very often turn yellow due to a lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown under indoor conditions, the ends of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination with an energy-saving lamp up to 12 hours. The flower must be placed at the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows do not fit the flower.

You noticed that the dracaena looks bad, the tips of its leaves are drying. What to do in such cases? It is necessary to pay attention to the watering mode. Perhaps the plant is waterlogged. As a result, its root system rots, leaves do not get enough moisture through diseased roots, and therefore their tips dry. Dracaena is watered only after the soil has completely dried in a pot. Watering in this case is carried out abundant, so that the water comes out into the pan through the drainage holes. Water is immediately removed from the pan. Otherwise, the bottom of the pot will not dry out, the roots will rot. You can not put a pot of dracaena on wet expanded clay. To check the condition of the root system, the plant is carefully removed from the pot. Healthy roots will be light. Regular spraying will help the flower. it is possible to add cyclone or epin to water for spraying once a week.

Dracaena dry the tips of the leaves, if the room is low humidity. To do this, frequent spraying of the flower is carried out, a humidifier is placed next to it. During the heating season, do not place the plant next to heating appliances.

Dracaena does not grow, new leaves grow deformed, stems are thinned and extended. Reason: the plant lacks sunlight. Perhaps the flower is in the back of the room where the light does not penetrate, or the daylight hours are shortened due to the onset of autumn-winter. Experts recommend placing dracaena near windows on the south or southeast side of the house, but with mandatory shading from midday heat. To diffuse direct sunlight on the window, just hang a transparent curtain. In autumn and winter, it is recommended to illuminate the dracaena with an artificial light lamp (fluorescent or special phytolamp). In total, the duration of daylight hours for the successful development of leaflets should be 12-14 hours.

With the onset of autumn-winter (the period from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dracaena dormancy period, the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, reduce the temperature of the plant (up to +17 ... + 18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and feeding are not carried out. During the resting period, the dracaena slows its growth, and therefore, in conditions of insufficient illumination, it does not drive out new, deformed leaves, its branches do not thin out.

The beginning flower grower does not have enough experience and intuition for growing indoor plants, he acquires it most often by trial and error. However, it is possible to avoid trouble by using some basic rules when choosing a plant and first acquaintance with it.

When buying dracaena or another plant, find out its full Latin name. Acquiring a new unknown plant, many are not interested in its agricultural technology, features, do not know the correct botanical name. Knowing the correct botanical name, you can determine the specific features of a particular species.
Excessive shading or bright light can harm your dracaena. First of all, you should choose the right place for the plant. To do this, find out how the plant relates to sunlight. In addition, which is very important, a plant that tolerates sunlight well must be accustomed to it gradually. This is due to the peculiarities of plant maintenance prior to purchase - in stores they rarely observe the light regime necessary for a particular species.
For most types of plant dracaena, drafts are fatal. When choosing a plant, consider this fact.
Overfilling or excessive dryness can be extremely harmful to the plant. Watering is of great importance. You always need to know what the needs of the plant you bought are. In addition, watering should be carried out carefully, negligence leads to unpleasant consequences. For a number of species, a necessary condition for a healthy existence in the apartment is a constant daily spraying.
Be careful when feeding a plant. It is very important to understand how much the introduction of nutrients is necessary for the plant. Mistakes in feeding can cause the plant to die or die.
Consider the individual needs of the plant to the soil mixture. When transplanting, the main mistake is the incorrectly selected soil mixture. Sometimes a transplant is started unnecessarily, at the wrong time. Often too large dishes are taken, which leads to acidification of the soil. Most plants require good drainage, which some do not pay attention to. Plants brought from Holland often do not undergo proper control by the appropriate structures, as a result of which they can carry various hazardous pests on themselves or in the substrate. Therefore, it is advisable to transplant the purchased plant with the replacement of the substrate and a careful examination of the roots.
Need to crop? Crop! Lovers - gardeners often pity their plant, are afraid to cut it. Pruning is necessary for a number of crops; if it is not carried out, the plant grows, ceases to grow and bloom.

Symptoms of care mistakes and possible causes.

The upper leaves retain elasticity, but turn yellow: It is caused, as a rule, by a high content of calcium in the soil - in those plants that cannot tolerate lime, or by the hardness of water for irrigation.

The leaves lose their luster and look lifeless: The probable cause is too much light; another cause may be a red spider mite. Even healthy green leaves may appear faded if not washed.

Leaf discoloration (chlorosis): The leaves discolor and turn yellow, the streaks remain green. Usually this happens with a lack of iron and magnesium. Both elements are needed to keep the leaf green. Irrigation with water containing a lot of calcium leads to such a deficiency: calcium binds iron in the soil. You can fix this by starting to use iron chelates or brown algal extract and pour softened water.

Leaves discolor until they become transparent: This is due to a lack of nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary, in particular, for the formation of green leaves. To restore the green color of the leaves, it is necessary to fertilize with liquid fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. More long-term support may be horny flour, which must be gently mixed into the upper layer of the earth.

Drooping leaves: Common causes are either drying out the soil (due to insufficient watering) or waterlogging of the soil (due to poor drainage or too frequent watering). Other causes may be an excess of light (especially if the leaves wilt regularly in the middle of the day), dry air, too high air temperature, a cramped pot or pests.

Leaves curl and fall: The edges of the leaves curl and sometimes become dry. Twisting the leaves of plants is a measure of self-defense, because this reduces the surface of the leaf and less water evaporates from it. This happens when the plant is in a too warm place or receives little water. It is necessary to water the plant until the soil is completely saturated, or dip it in water and hold it. Choose a cooler place for him.

Leaves fall off suddenly: Rapid leaf fall without a previous long period of withering or discoloration usually indicates a shock suffered by the plant. It can be caused by a significant temperature difference (both lowering and increasing), a sharp increase in the intensity of illumination in the daytime or a strong cold draft. Sudden falling of leaves, especially in tree plants, can also be caused by drying out of the soil at the roots.

Leaves turn yellow and fall: The lower leaves of an adult plant naturally turn yellow over time and then fall. When this happens simultaneously with several leaves, the probable cause is waterlogging of the soil, lack of nitrogen, too dark place or cold drafts. First of all, you need to drastically reduce watering or completely replace the earth and less often water it. Regularly feed with appropriate fertilizers. Move the plant to a brighter place.

The lower leaves dry and fall: Three likely causes are a lack of light, too high air temperature and insufficient watering. The plant should be rearranged in a brighter place. Soak an earthball completely with water, immersing the pot for several hours in water. Move from a warm place to cooler conditions.

Leaves on new plants fall: For newly transplanted, just bought or transferred from one room to another plants, it is natural to lose one or two lower leaves. The shock from a change of scenery can be mitigated if the plant is transplanted only in a slightly larger pot than the previous one, sheltered when moving home from the store and transferred from a poorly lit place to a bright light with an intermediate stay for several days in partial shade.

Dots or spots on the leaves: If the dots or spots are dry and brown, then the most likely cause is a lack of water. If the affected areas are soft, dark brown light - this is most likely due to waterlogging of the soil. If the dots or spots are white or yellowish, the lesion is caused by the use of cold water when watering, a sharp drop in temperature, water getting on the leaves, aerosol damage, or illness / pests. If the spots are reddish, silver-white or brownish - the plant suddenly appeared under the influence of direct sunlight. If the affected area becomes wet and looks like a blister, or dry in the form of dents, the cause is the disease. Some pests can also cause leaf spotting.

Brown tips or leaf edges: The most likely cause is the drying of the leaf tips to dry air. Another possible cause is physical damage, when the tips of the leaves are often touched or pressed against the glass or wall. If the edges of the leaves are yellow or brown, this may be due to several reasons: waterlogging, insufficient watering, lack of light, too much light, too low air temperature, an excess of minerals, dry air or drafts. Other symptoms will help determine the true cause.

Small pale leaves and elongated stems: This happens in winter and early spring, after the plant was kept in low light at too high a temperature and excessively heavy watering. If possible, the ugly part of the plant is removed. If such symptoms appear during the growth period, then the reasons may be a lack of minerals or too poor lighting.

Leaves and stems rot: This is caused by a disease that occurs under poor conditions. Often the cause of the disease is waterlogging of the soil in winter or water getting on the leaves, especially if it remains overnight.

Torn edges and holes on the leaves: Most often appear when physically damaged by pets or people (sometimes even a simple touch on an unfolded sheet can damage it) or when attacked by pests.

Variegated leaves turn solid green: This is simply due to a lack of light. Remove all processes with uniformly colored leaves (if possible) and move the pot with the plant closer to the window.

A plant does not grow slowly or at all: In winter, this is normal for all plants, so do not force it to grow. In summer, the most likely cause of growth retardation is a lack of minerals, waterlogging of the soil, or insufficient lighting. If these reasons are excluded, then the pot may be cramped.

The plant does not bloom: Several reasons can lead to the fact that an adult plant does not bloom at the right time. The most likely causes associated with lighting are a lack of light or an unsuitable length of daylight for a plant. Other causes may be an overabundance of minerals, dry air, thrips, or transplantation (some plants bloom only in a tight pot).

Buds fall: The reasons why leaves fall can also cause buds or flowers to fall. This is most often caused by dry air, insufficient watering, lack of light, moving the pot with the plant to another place and pest damage.

Flowers quickly fade: As a rule, this is a result of insufficient watering, dry air, lack of light or too high air temperature.

Green plaque on a ceramic pot: A sure sign of problems associated with irrigation - occurs when waterlogged soil or poor drainage.

White peel on a ceramic pot: There are two likely reasons - use too hard water for irrigation or an excess of minerals.

- Although this is not a very fastidious indoor plant, it nevertheless requires the observance of individual care rules: appropriate temperature, humidity level, and so on. A critical violation of these rules can provoke various plant ailments that are reflected not only in the appearance and which can lead to the death of dracaena. One of the common problems, the causes and solutions of which will be discussed below, is the omission of the leaves of the plant, which usually grow up.

The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall

The most likely include:

Excessively cold temperature in the room (in particular, exacerbated by drafts). The optimum temperature for the growth and development of the plant is from 18 to 24 ° C above zero. Lower temperatures can cause the leaves to drop. In order to avoid this or to cope with the problem that has already arisen, it is necessary to remove the plant from the place where it can be purged with drafts, and also to create the optimal temperature regime in the room.
Excessive soil moisture. It can be triggered by frequent watering or an excessively wide pot, contributing to stagnation of moisture. This requires two basic rules. The first is to avoid frequent watering and allow the soil to dry between watering, the second - you need to choose a pot that is quite deep, but small in diameter (for a plant up to 15 centimeters tall, the optimal diameter of the pot is 10 to 15 centimeters; the height of the pot is 12-15 centimeters) .
Lack of moisture for the outer surface of the leaves. Dracaena receives part of the nutrition and hydration through the surface of the leaves. In this regard, once every two to three days it is required to spray the leaves from the spray with water at room temperature.
Lack of oxygen saturation. First of all, it is important to maintain the saturation of the soil with oxygen. For this, drainage is created when planting / replanting dracaena. And it is also necessary to carry out periodic loosening of the soil.
Excessive use of fertilizers. For growth and development dracaena it is advisable to use organic fertilizers in small quantities - peat, manure, humus and so on. Mineral fertilizers can be completely abandoned and used only if there are symptoms of a particular disease of dracaena, due to a lack of certain nutrients.
Exposure to direct sunlight can also cause yellowing and drooping leaves. dracaena. The plant loves light, but does not tolerate direct sunlight, which can contribute to the degradation and death of the plant. Dracaena should be in a lit room, but not on the sunny side of the room.

We liked this plant due to its unpretentiousness and graceful beauty. Perhaps, dracaena is one of the few palm trees that are able to grow in a closed environment without special supervision. Therefore, if you decide to get a room palm, you will have plenty to choose from. After all, variegated African women have varieties for every taste! Dracaena flower is a home photo and care in this material.

Family: dracenic. Bloom: depends on the species. Cultivation: simple.

Dracaena flower - striped dragon

Previously, dracaena and all its species, and it has about 80 of them, belonged to the asparagus family, and only recently found the eponymous "family" of dracaenas. The name comes from the Greek word "dracaina", which means "female dragon." It is not surprising that the people called the plant "dragon tree." And one of the varieties has a symbolic meaning at all: it is believed that the tree grew on the spot where the dragon’s blood was shed ...

A characteristic feature of dracaena of this species is red resin, which is used as a coloring matter. From ancient times dried red juice was served as dragon blood and used for embalming. Dragon dracaena is considered a symbol of the island of Tenerife, local residents consider this magnificent tree sacred. The variety is distinguished by its impressive size, sometimes up to 30 m high and unusual shape of the crown. The tree is a long-liver, the oldest was found even before the development of the island, the trunk girth was 15 m., And according to various sources, it was several millennia old.

The dragon tree can be called one of the most useful: all varieties are volatile plants that cleanse the air of harmful fumes. Filter plants.

Do you know ...
The popular bamboo spirals that we see in bouquets and floral arrangements are not bamboo at all, but one of the varieties of dracaena, namely Sander.

The birthplace of these many plants is Africa, some dracaenas feel comfortable in South Asia, the tropics of Central America, Australia and New Guinea. Dragon tree is often confused with cordilina, which is smaller. In the landscaping of the premises, several of the most decorative types are used. Dracaena home photo and views.

Fragrant Dracaena - African with a powerful trunk and wide leaves, blooming with white and very fragrant flowers. In shape, they are similar to flowers of Sansevier. The dimensions of the plant require a lot of space, it can grow to the ceiling.

d. fragrant
d. fragrant

Another flowering species, Dragzen Godzeff, she surkolosa - this is the most unusual and rare variety. Three varieties are known: Punctulata, Florida Beauty, and Milky Way. This species pleases with flowering on any windows, even oriented to the north side, requires support in the growth process, reaches a height of 3 m. The flowers are small, white, with a pleasant smell. The leaves are shaped like hoya leaves.

d. Godzeff
d. Godzeff Florida Beauty
d. surkolosa Milky Way and Punctulata

The flower of Dracaena deremensky became the progenitor of many spectacular varieties. These are miniature shrubs with fringed broad leaves, approx. 80 cm. Lemon Laim and White Stripe, Kanzi and White Jewel varieties are very beautiful. As they grow, the lower leaves fall, forming a dense, but short stem.

d. Deremenskaya Kanzi and White Jewel
d. Deremenskaya White Stripe and Lemon Laim

Dracaena bent away is very sweet, until it exceeds 40 cm, then the trunk begins to bend, and when shifted, it twists. Therefore, this species requires careful shaping and multiple cropping. The most beautiful varieties are Song of India and Song of Jamaica. By the way, this is the most capricious of room types.

d. bent Song of India and Song of Jamaica

The most famous fringed dracaena has varieties with bright pink, cream and light green stripes on the leaves: Colorama and Magenta. An evergreen tree grows up to 3 m tall and often forms several tops. The variety with a narrow filamentary border along the edge of the sheet was called Dracaena Marginata.

d. Marginata
d. Bordered by Magenta and Colorama

According to an ancient Aztec legend, the dracaena flower is considered a tree of happiness. So, the warrior, who once fell in love with the daughter of the high priest, was doomed to suffering. The father of his beloved was ready to give him his daughter as a wife only if leaves grew on a stick stuck in the ground. For five days, the lover desperately watered a lifeless stick, and on the night of the full moon it came to life. Since then, a twig cut off at midnight on the full moon is considered a symbol of eternal love!

Care Rules

These palm trees are the best-bought plants, they can be grown everywhere, they are extremely hardy and do not require custody. Despite the abundance of species, the growing rules for all are approximately the same. The site flowery-blog.ru will tell in more detail.

Temperature and lighting

Dracaena and its species are photophilous, but in different ways. In the direct sun, only fringed, without fear, put up, the rest can get burns. The very best lighting is the morning sun, or bright diffused light. In winter, so that narrow slightly colored leaves do not grow, the plant needs to be additionally illuminated. An exception is Godzeff's dracaena (except for its variegated species), she prefers bright diffused lighting, but she will calmly suffer a lack of light in winter.

Dragon palm grows well in room conditions, the minimum allowable temperature is 15 degrees with sparse watering, and the most comfortable approx. 25, provided that the room is not stuffy.

Watering and humidity

Regular, and most importantly moderate watering is the key to good growth and development of a room palm. A dragon tree easily tolerates a temporary lack of moisture, but a systematic overflow in a compartment with a lack of light and low temperature is harmful to the roots. Depending on the size of the pot and temperature, you can water in 7-12 days. 8 important watering rules.

Humidity does not play a special role in the growing process, but spraying will not hurt, especially in the hot season. In addition, it is periodically necessary to clean the leaves of dust with a soft cloth. Sheet top dressing.

Fertilizers and fertilizing

During active growth, the dragon tree requires regular feeding. It is carried out 2 times a month with any fertilizer for decorative and deciduous. In summer, you can alternate mineral mixtures with organic top dressing. In winter, if there is growth, you can maintain the plant by fertilizing 1 time in 2 months. If the flower hibernates in low light and humidity conditions, it is better to exclude any fertilizer.

On a note
Flowering occurs from December to April. With artificial pollination at home, round fruits with seeds can be tied.

Reproduction and transplantation

Dracaena transplantation is performed once a year for young specimens and every 3 years for adults. For large palm trees, only the top layer of the substrate in the pot can be changed annually. When choosing a pot, it is important to consider that the root system of dracaena is voluminous, so the plant needs a spacious pot with good drainage. In this case, it is better to give preference to sustainable ceramics! A good time for a transplant is the end of winter or the beginning of spring.

The substrate should be loose, nutritious and slightly acidic. How to determine the acidity of the soil. For the mixture, they take garden soil, peat, sand and a little leaf or coniferous humus. In the absence of the necessary components, you can confine yourself to garden soil and purchased peat mix, which are combined to achieve the optimal consistency. How to make soil for flowers.

Most bushy varieties initially have a beautiful, low rosette of leaves, but with age, the stalk is gradually exposed and they become “false palms”. Top trimming stimulates branching. Dracaena Marginata (bordered) is also amenable to shaping, “candelabra” with three or five horns, “dead loops” and randomly curved voluminous bushes are made of trunks. It remains only to maintain a given shape.

For the dracaena flower, propagation is carried out by cuttings in the spring. Most species are easily rooted by apical and stem cuttings in water, or a light mixture of sand and peat (photo above).

Problems in growing?

Dracaena flower care for which is not complicated, little susceptible to disease and rarely suffers from pests. But weakens and loses attractiveness in inappropriate conditions.

If the dracaena turns yellow ...

The most dangerous reasons for this behavior are excessive watering, lack of light, or low temperature. Any of these factors provokes rot of the root system and intense decay of the foliage. Carefully check the moisture level in the pot with a wooden skewer: if the soil sticks, watering should be postponed.

Clogged and heavy soil can also cause yellowing of the leaves. Earth must be loose and breathable. Feeding that supports beauty is also important. For decorative foliage palm trees, this is, first and foremost, nitrogen! When a flower grows for a long time in one pot, a strong deficiency of trace elements occurs, therefore periodically do transshipment.

If dracaena has dry leaf tips ...

This phenomenon is quite rare and not progressive. The reason for this is dry air, especially in winter. Try to place the pot with a palm tree away from heating appliances, more often spray the leaves. So that the defect is not very noticeable, you can trim the ends with scissors at an angle to the central vein.

If dracaena grows pale leaves ...

The flower of dracaena can change color in conditions of nutritional deficiency - in cramped conditions, inappropriate poor substrate, or in the complete absence of top dressing during growth. In addition, wintering becomes a difficult period, when the temperature is high and there is little light. Far from the light source, many palm trees change their direction of growth, stretch to the sun, and bend. From time to time it is useful to turn the pot and provide a sufficient level of lighting.

If there are spots on the leaves of dracaena ...

A palm tree could overheat in the sun, or freeze in a cold draft, so place your "pet" correctly. Low temperature plus high humidity contribute to the appearance of fungal diseases in the form of spots and plaque on the leaves. Diseases of indoor flowers.

If dracaena lowered the leaves ...

This behavior is typical for palms after transplantation, especially dracaena Marginata reacts particularly strongly to it. Otherwise, it is worth checking the soil, it may be very dry and the plant is thirsty! In a compartment with yellow leaves, this may, on the contrary, be a sign of overflow.

Of the pests, the most dangerous is the spider mite, which tips will help get rid of: pests of indoor flowers.

Dracaena is a home photo of which you saw a popular houseplant that has many varieties of variegated and flowering in reserve. Growing it is not difficult!

If you still have questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. ? If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Dracaena: how to transplant a dragon tree

In recent years, dracaena has firmly established itself in the first lines of the list of popular indoor plants. Very similar to a palm tree, it is more patient and complaisant than the Hamedorei, Neantes and other eminent tropical beauties. Dracaena is easy to care for, at home it can reach three meters in height and live for several decades. But the longevity will be only that dracaena, which is properly looked after and which ensures a timely transplant.

Dracaena in natural and domestic conditions

Dracaena is a palm tree for busy and not too zealous gardeners. Although she is not even related to palm trees. Only in appearance it is very similar: a slender bare trunk with a cap of leaves on top.

In nature, dracaena lives for a very long time. On the island of Tenerife, a sacred dragon tree grew 23 meters high with a trunk circumference of 15 meters. Inside the hollow of this giant, locals who worshiped the dracaena built an altar. According to the biologist and educator N.M. Verzilin, who described this tree in the last century, sailors could see this tree back in 1402. On the same island, a 21-meter dracaena was found, which is still alive today, which is supposedly over 300 years old.

The false palm of the dracaena from the true ones compares favorably with its unpretentious disposition, modest requirements to the conditions of detention, and the ability to forgive the florists of their mistakes.

This plant, especially marginata (edged) and dragon tree, can green the dark corners of your home. It grows without problems in partial shade. Varieties with variegated leaves feel better in bright but diffused lighting. Direct rays can burn delicate greens. Dracaena loves artificial lighting, so she often decorates offices.

Dracaena does not require special temperature, it is suitable for moderate, indoor: in summer +25 and above, in winter 18–20 degrees. That's just from its sharp drops and from drafts Dracaena must be protected - after all, she is a southerner.

It is advised to regularly spray dracaena and moisten the air for them. But this fully applies only to particularly delicate species, for example, fragrant and bent. As practice shows, the plant has already acclimatized to the dryness of our apartments. Although, of course, a warm spray shower will be welcome. Dracaena will also like the hygienic rubbing of leaves from dust.

Summer watering of dracaena should be plentiful: the hotter, the more. In winter, water is given sparingly, but the soil is not completely dry. The lower the temperature, the less moisture. Excess water at the roots leads to disease. Therefore, it is useful to loosen the topsoil so that air penetrates into the pot without hindrance.

Over the years, dracaena, like real palm trees, loses lower leaves. This is a natural occurrence. It is necessary to worry if leaf fall becomes massive.

To stimulate lateral kidneys and rejuvenate, it is recommended to cut the dracaena. Healthy plants, growth not less than 30 cm, cut off the top with a sharp knife, about 5-6 cm. It can then be rooted. The wound must be greased with garden varnish or sprinkled with charcoal. After about a month, new shoots should appear under the cut.

Video: how to care for a lazy palm tree

How to plant or transplant indoor dracaena

Dracaena is usually transplanted every two years. But this rule can be violated. If the plant develops well, does not cause concern - it is better not to disturb it. Even the most skilled transplant is very stressful for the plant.

The root system will inevitably be injured during this operation. But in some situations, transplantation is the only way out.

When you need to transplant a dracaena:

The root system of the dracaena develops inland, it has few lateral processes. Therefore, when choosing a new pot, pay attention to the tall and narrow containers. After transplanting, there should be enough space below for root development.

The size of the container depends on the size of the dracaena. A guideline here can be a plant 40–45 cm tall, which requires a pot with a diameter of 15–20 cm. Every 2-3 years, the diameter should increase by 2-3 cm, not more. You should not save money and take dishes for growth for dracaena. The roots will not be able to settle in a large volume of soil, the moisture will stagnate and the putrefactive process will begin.

To think for a long time what is better: plastic or ceramic - it makes no sense, the picky dracaena grows equally well in dishes made of any material. So here rely only on your taste and finances.

But be sure to check the drainage holes in the pot, and if they are not there, be sure to do it. They must be large enough to rid the plant of unnecessary moisture.

Necessary soil and drainage

Dracaenas are not capricious in the choice of soil. False palms like a breathable, moderately nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic (6–6.5 pH) substrate with a slight addition of loosening components and peat.

You can buy specialized soil for dracaena or palm trees, or you can make a mixture yourself. Here are some recipes:

turf land - 2 parts, leaf and compost - 1 part each, peat - 0.5;
on 2 shares of turf land - 1 deciduous and 0.5 coarse sand;
on 2 shares of turf land, 1 share of sand, peat and humus land;
equally leafy land, horse peat, chopped moss and half a fraction of perlite or coarse sand;
into two parts of rotted compost or humus for part of leafy soil, sand or vermiculite;
turf land, greenhouse and deciduous humus in equal shares, half of the share is river sand;
universal soil for indoor plants half diluted with garden soil, add a little chopped moss.

Useful additives can be added to the soil mixture for dracaena: crumbs of charcoal or red brick. Coal protects the roots and the earth from rot, and brick enhances friability and absorbs excess moisture. The proportion is approximately the following: on a bucket of soil 3-4 handfuls of coal and 0.5 kg of crushed brick. Like Dracaena and coconut fiber. Soak the briquette just before adding it: the coconut substrate greatly increases in volume.

Expanded clay, pebbles, vermiculite, brick chips, polystyrene are suitable for the drainage layer. Do not use drainage twice, especially expanded clay and brick, it is not worth it, it absorbs harmful salts.

Proper land sterilization

It is better to sterilize the soil in advance, about a month before the intended transplant. It should lie down and come to life.

The right time for a transplant

Young dracaena (3-4 years of age) are usually transplanted in a year or two, adult specimens every 5 years or less. You can deal with transplantation during the entire period of vegetation (growth), that is, from spring to mid-autumn. But spring (in March - April) relocation is the best option. The plant has awakened from hibernation, is actively building greenery and root system. This means that the new land will be quickly and profitably inhabited.

However, in some cases it is necessary to change the soil and the pot even in late autumn. For example, a plant became ill from overflow, pests were found in the soil, or you purchased dracaena growing in the transport soil, and it is still far from spring. In an autumn transplant for a plant, there is nothing too extreme. Just take a closer look at the migrant and create milder conditions for him. If the dracaena does not take root, spray it with warm water with the addition of a stimulant (Zircon, Epin, Skor).

Transshipment is the best way to transplant

Transshipment is the most sparing type of transplant. It is suitable for healthy adult plants that need a little more room for growth. When transshipment, earthen is stored unchanged. And new soil is poured between it and the walls of the pot. As a rule, dracaena perfectly tolerates this procedure. She does not have to spend energy on adaptation.

Step-by-step instructions for transshipment of dracaena

Before transshipment for 3-4 days, do not water the dracaena, then the earthen coma can be saved.
Prepare new soil, drainage and pot.
At the bottom, pour a drainage layer, a little soil.
Tilt the pot with dracaena or, if the size allows, turn over to get an earthen lump with roots. You can push it through the drain hole.
Place an earthen lump in the center of the new pot, the top of the lump should be only slightly below the top edge of the container.
Gradually sprinkle the earth from different directions, compacting with your fingers and shaking the pot.
Do not fill the pot to the top to make it convenient to water the plant, and do not leave voids in the ground.
After transplanting, water the dracaena well.
Put it in a warm (+ 20–22 о С), slightly shaded place.
Water sparingly for two weeks, avoiding overflow, occasionally spray. Observe the condition of the plant.
If there are no problems, put the dracaena in a permanent place and take care as usual.

Transplant requirements after purchase

When buying dracaena, be careful. Look at the foliage, it should be clean with green tips. Often in flower shops you can see plants with cut leaves. This means that they are incorrectly contained: in too dry air or without watering, and by cutting the ends of the leaves they try to mask the mistakes. Also inspect the lower part of the leaves and the stem: for signs of pests.

When you bring the dracaena home, do not rush to introduce it to the other green inhabitants. Keep the plant in quarantine for at least 2 weeks. During this time, problems not noticed in the store may appear. In addition, the dracaena must adapt to the new environment.

And two weeks later, it is necessary to solve the question: to transplant the dracaena or not. If there is no doubt in plant health, wait with a transplant until spring. There are some problems, for example, poor soil quality, replant your false palm at any time of the year. Usually store plants are kept in a peaty poor substrate. But for dracaena it is not so harmful, it, unlike cacti, is tolerant of peat. Therefore, when transplanting a recently purchased plant, do not clean the root system completely, but remove only what is left behind.

Landing and transplanting

Pour a layer of expanded clay or other drainage into a new pot. On top of it is a soil mixture.
Do not water Dracaena before transplanting for 3-4 days, so that the earth at the roots dries and does not crumble.
Draw a knife or spatula along the edge of the flower pot, separating the earthen lump from the walls.
Video: how can transplant dracaena

Large dracaena transplant

At home, over time, the dracaena grows into a three-meter tree. Such a giant is very difficult to transplant. It is much easier to update only the top layer (5-6 cm) of soil. Humus or other useful components are necessarily added to the new soil for nutrition.

But sometimes transplants cannot be avoided. Then look for an assistant. Alone to deal with the transplantation of tall dracaena is very difficult.

Stages of transplanting a large specimen:
Before transplanting, do not water the dracaena for several days, so that an earthen lump is easier to remove from the pot.
Prepare the soil mixture, drainage and pot.
At the bottom of the tank, pour a drainage layer and part of the soil.
Using a knife or spatula, carefully draw along the inner walls of the old pot to separate the grown roots.
If the roots sprouted into the drainage holes, trim them.
Get the dracaena with an earthen lump from the old pot (perhaps for this you will have to stand on a chair, holding the plant by the stem, and the assistant will pull the pot). Another option: carefully put the plant on its side and knock well on the pot, then carefully pull out the dracaena along with an earthen lump.
Shake off the soil slightly, do not remove all. Remove too long roots from below, do not worry too much during surgery - dracaena will quickly restore what was lost.
Transfer the plant to a new pot, set in the center and gradually fill the soil between the walls and the earthen lump with soil, slightly tamping it.
Pour the soil around the circle, wait for it to settle, and add more soil. But do not try to fill the pot to the brim, otherwise it will then be inconvenient to water, change the topsoil.

For oversized dracaenas, so as not to transplant often, you can take the pot slightly for growth. And it is better to invest in ceramic. It is more stable than plastic.

Video: how to transplant a high dracaena

Transplant Care

After dracaena has moved to a new pot, it needs to create greenhouse conditions for a couple of weeks. This means that the plant is placed in a quiet and warm place without drafts, protected from direct sunlight. The best lighting is dim.

Water the dracaena very carefully. After transplanting, the main danger is waterlogging of the soil. The roots have not yet penetrated into the new soil, moisture may not be absorbed and stagnate in the pot. This will lead to souring and rot. Pests are happy to settle in moist soil.

Transplant Issues

Most often, dracaena safely relocates from pot to pot and quickly adapts. But there are also problematic transplants. Then the plant becomes bored, the leaves wilt, the green hat of the foliage turns yellow. What is the cause of malaise? It can be assumed that during the transplant one or more errors were made:

Incorrect soil mixture. Dracaena does not tolerate heavy and too oily soil, soil with a high content of peat, which repels moisture, is not suitable for it. The solution to the problem is a new transplant into the correct land.
The new pot is too big. A plant weakened by a transplant cannot use all of the soil. Undeveloped soil will be constantly wet, then acidify, and the growth of putrefactive flora will begin. And there is not far from and to the rot of the roots. The way out is a transplant into a smaller pot with soil replacement.
Waterlogging after transplantation is the most common problem. Caring hosts water the plant, without waiting for the surface of the earth to dry out, the soil turns into a swamp, the flower becomes even sadder. To please, it is watered again. With such "care", a fatal outcome can occur. Do not water the plant until the top layer of soil dries 1–2 cm, remove water from the sump. If the situation is critical, try to dry the earthen room. Remove it from the pot and place it on paper (so that moisture is absorbed) in a warm and dry place. If you want to take care of dracaena, it is better to spray it, but also without undue enthusiasm.
Incorrect contents after transplantation. This often happens during the autumn-winter transplant. In a cool room, a weakened plant freezes. Put the dracaena closer to the warm battery, and so that it does not suffer from dry air, spray it, put nearby containers of water.

Yellowing and death of leaves

Yellow leaves and small leaf fall are normal in the first two weeks after transplanting. But if the fall of the leaves intensifies further, measures must be taken. Yellowing is a sign of overflow or airtight soil. Reduce hydration. Change the soil if necessary.

Dracaena yellow leaves - a serious reason to think about the grower

If the leaves of the dracaena have brown and dry tips, the air dryness is most likely to blame. Spray the plant and moisten the air. Another reason is overfeeding dracaena. After transplantation, it should not be fed for 2-3 months. Everything you need is already in the soil, if it is properly composed.

The tips of the leaves blacken in a too cold room or when touching a cold window pane.

Dracaena lowered the leaves

Video: Fix Transplant Errors

Cuttings

Beautiful palms are not easy to breed and only by seed. And the dracaena, so similar to a palm tree, is easy to grow from the cuttings. Roots and segments of the stem lend themselves to rooting. Thus, you can not only get a new plant, but also rejuvenate the old.

We plant cuttings

In an adult and healthy dracaena, cut the stalk 3–5 cm with a sharp sterile knife: top of the stem with leaves.

A plant without a crown also does not disregard. Sprinkle the wound with charcoal and dry. Spray the plant with growth stimulants. After 3-4 weeks, new kidneys begin to develop under the cut. Dracaena will receive a second life.

The amazing vitality of dracaena and its ability to reproduce formed the basis of the Aztec legend. According to her, the high priest, who did not want to give his daughter in marriage to a warrior, stuck a stick in the ground and said that if there were no leaves on it in five days, there would be no wedding. And he promised to execute the groom. The warrior began to water this stick. And on the fifth day, leaves grew on it - this was how dracaena was born. The Aztecs call it the tree of happiness.

Dracaena is also propagated by segments of the stem up to 12 cm. Sections are dusted with charcoal, the cuttings are dug in moistened sand and a greenhouse is arranged. Just don't confuse the top end with the bottom. Such cuttings root in 2-3 weeks.

Some gardeners create original compositions by planting several young dracaena in one pot. So they look more magnificent. However, do not plant old and young dracaena together. An adult plant will not allow a teenager to develop.

Rooting cuttings of dracaena

Reviews of gardeners: beautiful, complaisant, unpretentious

Dracaena is not a sissy. I had a cat drop it from a shelf onto a table: a pot to smithereens, a dracaena crown into a laptop ... A pile of land. fragments, broken leaves ... And her cat ate more than once. All dracaena nothing.

About the transplant. I usually put two pots in the bathtub - with a flower and a new one with a small layer of earth. Then I spill a pot of flower with water, then I pry off the ground with a small spatula, pull out a flower with a lump of earth - and immediately into the next pot. I top up the earth, tamp a little, spill water as it should. I leave it for 40 minutes in the bathtub so that the water is excess glass. All.

Olesya

http://www.woman.ru/rest/medley8/thread/4193523/

When transplanting dracaena, a prerequisite is that there should be no empty spaces in the roots, that is, the earth should be carefully distributed between the roots and roots during transplantation, so as not to rot, add coal powder, a little Fitosporin. Watering immediately is not necessary, in the new land and so there is moisture, the first watering in a couple of days. Drainage is necessary - I have 1/4 pot of polystyrene foam. But I would have cleaned the whole store land, just soak the roots in a bucket of warm water for 5 minutes and rinse them. I personally popped a bunch of earthworms. After transplantation, Dracene was sprayed with Epin solution every 10 days (3 times). The pot must necessarily be commensurate with the root stain - otherwise everything will rot. I have a big pot, but half a pot of land, as it grows, I will add land. You can’t dig the trunk - only roots should be in the ground.

Oksana

http://eka-mama.ru/forum/part58/topic139865/?PAGEN_1\u003d2

Too big a pot is not good either. At least pouring is very easy. I poured my favorite dracaena from great love thoroughly after transplantation. In a small pot, she simply swallowed water. And after transplanting into a large pot, out of habit, I also watered it abundantly. But is there a lot of land? and it keeps moisture. As a result, she hung all the leaves. I had to urgently change the land. Now she has come back. But the view is not the same as before. So, if you transplant into a large pot, then you need to be watered very carefully. Moreover, other dracaenas transplanted into the same pots with the same root system feel normal. I usually watered them. I didn’t try so hard.
If the roots stick out of the pot, it is necessary to transplant, since in the pan they begin to rot. I checked this on personal experience.

http://homeflowers.ru/yabbse/index.php?showtopic\u003d5583

My parents have dracaena at least 10 years old. It was brought once long ago from Spain in the form of a piece of the trunk. Once every couple of years, when it outgrows all possible sizes, it is mercilessly chopped into separate pieces, similar to firewood. These firewoods are scattered in glasses of water and perfectly take root. The first time, too, was scary, but over so many years almost all the processes have taken root. Already half of the city, probably, our offspring are growing!

frekensnork

http://forum.ditenok.com/showthread.php?t\u003d34842

It is no coincidence that Dracaena became one of the most popular plants. Its original leaves give an exquisite style to any interior. And to look after her is simple and pleasant. And even such a traumatic procedure as a transplant, a patient dracaena transfers with dignity. The main thing is not to disappoint this plant, to do everything according to the rules.

Causes of dropped leaves in dracaena

Dracaena is considered a very unpretentious indoor plant. She does not need special care. But in order for the flower to please the eye as long as possible with its splendor and beauty, respond in time to any changes in its appearance. What are the drooped leaves of dracaena talking about?

Why is dracaena letting go of leaves

We will analyze what causes this problem and what needs to be done to solve it.

Why do dracaena drop leaves?

There may be several reasons:

improper watering;
not suitable in size pot;
nutrient deficiency;
lack of moisture;
drafts and broken temperature;
the plant was frozen.

The soil should be moist, not moist. The plant is watered with settled water at room temperature, when the earthen lump dries by about 2 cm. The irrigation regimen is 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in the pot, pour expanded clay or coarse-grained sand on its bottom with a layer of 3-4 cm, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from decay. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.

In the hot summer period, the flower needs to be sprayed. To wash off the dust and refresh it, we recommend once a month to put the plant in the shower, covering the ground with cellophane. After bathing the leaf growth point, blot with a napkin.

Close pot

The second reason that the leaves are constantly lowered down may be an improperly sized flower pot. If it is small, then plant nutrition is difficult. Roots need space. Check the tightness of their fit to the walls of the pot. If necessary, transplant a flower.

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

Lower leaflets may fall down due to insufficient nutrients. In a tight pot with a very developed root system, the earth quickly becomes poorer, the upper crown grows due to the lower foliage. During the period of active growth from April to September 1-2 times a month, feed the roots with pre-selected fertilizers. When watering, you can use liquid fertilizers according to the instructions.

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.

A flower loves moist air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the pot on a pallet with water so that the bottom of the pot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.

About the causes of drying of dracaena leaves and their methods

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Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. Evergreen palm up to 35 years old is considered to be young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

How to transplant Dracaena yourself and avoid mistakes

When do I need a transplant?

How to transplant dracaena at home? First of all, it is necessary to decide in which period it is best to take for a rejuvenating and stimulating flower growth procedure. The best time is the end of winter or the beginning of spring. As the plant wakes up after hibernation, and its vital processes become more active, dracaena transplantation at home will be the least stressful for it.

To clearly understand in what cases it is necessary to undertake the renewal of the soil mixture in a flower pot, select the following list:

it is recommended to transplant the dracaena into another pot if the rhizome has grown so much that it filled the container, and its processes can even be seen on the surface of the earthen coma. By updating the substrate and picking up a larger flower pot, you will create enough free space for your plant and stimulate the growth of shrubs;
transplantation of dracaena after purchase is another requirement for a grower. First, indoor flowers are sold in fragile plastic pots or flowerpots, not intended for long-term use. Secondly, you cannot be sure of the quality of the soil mixture and the absence of pests until you replace the substrate with your own hands;
it is recommended to plant dracaena in the event that you have excessively flooded the soil with water, and the dropped leaves of the plant and its decay on the face;
the soil for transplantation needs to be updated, since the substrate in which the indoor shrub grows has ceased to be nutritious. In addition, the earth becomes very clogged over time and begins to pass water and air poorly;
when a plant is infected with pests, not only its treatment with insecticidal drugs, but also transplantation of a home palm will help.

Knowing how to plant dracaena at home, and at what time is best done, you can achieve excellent results during the cultivation of shrubs.

What tools will be needed

To properly plant this homemade flower, you must clearly know what devices will help you in your work. It is not enough to decide what size pot the dracaena needs. Among the tools and materials that an experienced grower should have at hand, it is worth highlighting the following:

drainage;
high-quality soil mixture;
spray;
a container of water;
scissors or pruner.

Knowing how to properly transplant a dracaena, you stimulate your indoor shrub to even more active development.

Choosing the right pot

Perhaps you, as a beginner grower, can think about which pot to transplant the dracaena into. This moment must be given due attention. It is believed that a ceramic flower pot is best suited for dracaena. What is good about this material is its culvert properties, which is priceless for your indoor flower.

If you wish, you can buy a plastic flowerpot. However, in this case, be prepared for the fact that the irrigation regime will have to be observed with particular care. The water in the pot dries a little longer than in a container made of ceramics, so you can not overmoisten the substrate in any case. As for the size, it is better to buy a pot that is 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. It is impossible to plant the shrub in a too spacious container, since the plant will put all its strength into the growth of the rhizome, and not the stem part.

Which soil is suitable

How to plant dracaena and what kind of land this plant needs - it is advisable to find out these points in advance in order to prevent mistakes. Prepare the substrate for the indoor shrub yourself or buy the finished mixture for palm trees in a specialized store. If you decide to mix all the necessary components for the soil composition at home, you will need turf land, peat, leaf land, as well as compost.

Step-by-step instruction

Let's find out how to transplant the dracaena after the purchase in stages. Even if you are going to carry out this kind of procedure for the first time, there should not be any problems.

This process necessarily includes the following points:

approximately 3-4 days before the transplant, it is recommended to stop the substrate wetting;
at the bottom of the pot you purchased you need to pour pebbles, expanded clay or cracked brick - this material will perform the function of drainage;
carefully inspect the root system of the flower, if you need to trim old or damaged root processes;
place the plant in a new flowerpot, cover the roots with the soil mixture, and form a mound not too large around the stem - this way, water after irrigation will drain down.

To dracaena after transplantation did not lower the leaves, be sure to provide competent care for the flower, especially at first.

Further care and mistakes for beginners

In general, dracaena transplanted in spring or summer is treated under the same conditions as before the procedure. Do not leave the flower in the sun, as the plant may get burned. It is recommended to moisten the substrate 3-4 times a week. Do not forget to spray the leaves of the flower, as the plant is very fond of moisture. From time to time, fertilizers must be applied to the soil.

As for the mistakes, even if they are made, they rarely lead to the death of the bush. However, buying an oversized flower pot can contribute to plant wilt. The same can be said about the overmoistening of the soil substrate. Create favorable conditions for the shrub for growth, provide care for the dracaena based on the basic recommendations of specialists, and the plant will fully develop, and you can later transplant the flower without much effort.

Video "Dracaena transplant"

From this video you will learn how to properly transplant a dracaena.

Rules for self-transplanting dracaena

Most flower growers consider dracaena one of the most beautiful indoor plants. Dracaena is able to decorate any interior due to its unusual and spectacular appearance. Like any other plant, it will require a transplant. This process can be carried out immediately after purchase or after some time. A correct transplant will help to get rid of all sorts of problems associated with caring for dracaena.

Dracaena is one of the most beautiful ornamental deciduous plants. Most of them came from the tropics. About 150 varieties of this plant are counted, whose homeland is called tropical and subtropical Africa, as well as islands located in southeast Asia.

Regardless of variety, dracaena occasionally requires a transplant. into a larger pot. The need for this arises due to the fact that the root system of the plant does not tolerate crowding. It is recommended to transplant young dracaena annually with the advent of spring. For larger and adult dracaena, transplantation is needed as it grows. If there is no need to transplant the plant yet, in spring it is necessary to change the topmost layer of soil with heavier soil.

It is generally accepted that in emergency situations, dracaena can be transplanted even in autumn, despite the fact that the plant is preparing for winter sleep. Emergencies mean the threat of wilting or drying out due to an overly tight pot and the purchase of a young, new plant. After acquiring dracaena, a transplant must be performed in a few weeks, regardless of the time of year. This is explained by the fact that in the store the plant is placed in small pots, with improper soil, abundantly saturated with fertilizers designed to accelerate growth. All this can lead to the death of dracaena.

Of course, the dracaena transplant carried out in the autumn, is very stressful for the plant. A natural reaction to it will be falling leaves or yellowing. It must be remembered that any indoor flower, including dracaena, is categorically not recommended to be disturbed in the fall. It is at this time that preparation for wintering occurs, and excess stress will cause depletion of the plant.

Before proceeding with the transplant, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the features characteristic of dracaena. Observing the simple rules, you can easily save yourself from the many problems associated with plant transplantation. The quality of the earth has a direct impact on the condition of the flower, its growth, proper development. In this regard, it is necessary with all responsibility to approach the choice of soil in which dracaena will be located.

The substrate, which has a direct impact on the further development, growth and health status of the plant, plays one of the most important roles in dracaena transplantation. Overall this the flower is picky enough and is able to easily accept any soil. However, the most suitable option for the plant is peat land with an acidity level of 6.0-6.5.

If you have to choose between a ready-made purchased substrate and a self-prepared mixture, it would be better to completely rely on your own capabilities and feelings. The only exception to the rule is the use of sheet soil, which was previously in the garden or in the garden. This type of soil should not be used when transplanting, since it contains a fairly large amount of mineral salts and fertilizers.

The most suitable option is a mixture prepared from leaf, compost, peat and turf lands in the ratio 1: 1: 0.5: 2. In order to prevent soil caking, it is also recommended to add about a quarter of a pot of river sand. If it was decided to purchase a finished substrate, you need to pay special attention to the presence in it of the necessary nutrients and trace elements.

How to choose a flower pot

To date, the attention of gardeners presented huge assortment of flowerpots, among which it is difficult to make the right choice. Almost every person, first of all, pays attention to the pots having the most attractive external characteristics. However, such containers may in fact be unsuitable for use. In this regard, when choosing a new flower pot for dracaena, you must comply following recommendations:

In order for the plant to please the eye for a long time, a new flowerpot should be chosen, starting from the size of the root system. For example, with a dracaena height of about 40 cm, the pot should be at least 15 cm in diameter.
The diameter of each subsequent flowerpot should be in diameter 2 or 3 cm more than the previous. The grave mistake of some novice flower lovers is to buy a pot too large, taken with a margin. In such a container, the water will stagnate, having a detrimental effect on the health status of the plant.
Most gardeners are convinced that a ceramic flowerpot is best suited for dracaena. They justify this opinion with the probability of a better supply of the root system with oxygen, obtained due to the porous structure of the container. At the same time, it is believed that the substrate in this case dries out more evenly. In fact, as practice shows, in ordinary plastic pots, dracaena grows and develops no worse.
If the dracaena is old enough, it is better to choose stable flowerpot, with glassy outlines.
One of the prerequisites for choosing a pot is the presence of holes in the bottom, due to the fact that for dracaena stagnation of water in the soil coma can be fatal.

The dracaena transplant process

From how correctly and in a timely manner a plant transplant will be made, its further life entirely depends. It is highly recommended not to do this in the autumn. With the advent of autumn, the flower prepares for winter holidays and breaking this process can harm the dracaena.

For a transplant you will need:

A new flowerpot with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm larger than the previous one.
Soil purchased in the store or prepared independently.
Expanded clay or other drainage.
A sharp knife or pruner.
A vessel of water heated to room temperature.
Sprayer for water.

In a new pot, pre-treated with hot water, it is necessary to pour prepared drainage layer. The height of this layer is determined by the presence of perforation in the bottom of the tank. If there are no holes, then the drainage thickness needs to be increased, and if there is, then for a medium-sized pot, the height should be 2-3 cm. After completion, you need to very carefully remove the dracaena from the previous flowerpot, carefully freeing the root system from the old soil. If there are rotting sites on the roots, they must be removed and sprayed onto the dracaena root system using a spray gun.

Dracaena should be placed in a new flowerpot and carefully fill in the remaining space among the roots. Do not allow appearance in the root system air sacs. After graduation, for the speedy adaptation of the flower to new soil, you should pour it with a solution of fertilizers. In the future, dracaena should be moderately watered. At first, it is recommended to use zircon. Fertilizers will need to be applied twice a month. With the correct transplant, this dose should be enough.

When transplanting dracaena, special attention should be paid to the zone of transition of the plant trunk to the root neck. This place can not be excessively deepened into the ground, and the neck should be slightly sprinkled with earth. The soil is better to use light or medium density. The roots of dracaena really like the air. Most gardeners believe that the plant should be transplanted into store peat soil, however, it is too heavy. Best of all, a flower grows in a mixture of peat soil with coco soil or deciduous. In this case, the roots receive a sufficient amount of air and moisture.

After planting, the plant needs put in a quiet placeso that no one hurts him. It is important that it receives enough dim light. The most successful time for transplantation are:

late fall. An overgrown color transplant as needed.
early spring. Good time to transplant a young plant.

The flowerpot should be slightly larger than its predecessor, since in a very large pot the flower may die.

Plant transplant after purchase

Should dracaena be transplanted immediately after its acquisition? There is no definite answer to this question. A younger plant is better leave in the same pot before spring. In case of doubt about the need for a transplant, it is recommended to choose a transshipment. In this case, dracaena with the earth is transferred to a larger pot and supplemented with new soil. After this, the plant must be fertilized with zircon.

If the purchased plant is planted in transportation soil, then it must be transplanted into new soil, removing completely the old one.

Feeding dracaena after transplantation

After all procedures related to transplant, dracaena adapts for several weeks. At this time, the root system is formed. In order for the process to go as quickly as possible, the plant needs to be watered with a liquid that stimulates root growth, but no more than twice a month. In general, the plant should be fed from March to November, with a frequency of once every few weeks. In winter, top dressing should be done once a month, and the amount of active substance must be reduced by half. A universal fertilizer used for dracaena and palm trees is best suited.

Watering dracaena

The process of watering dracaena is no different from the usual. The only caveat is the need for the first time add zircon to the irrigation fluid.

So, dracaena transplantation is a fairly simple action that even a novice flower lover can handle.

Why did dracaena drop leaves?

My dracaena lowered the leaves as soon as I brought to the balcony after the winter, which I didn’t do, but the leaves didn’t rise, but returned to the room for 3 days, she rose and now the beauty is standing, she has dismissed all the leaves.

Dracaena, although an unpretentious houseplant, but still to be beautiful and lush (the leaves looked up), you need to properly care for it. The first signs that the dracaena lacks care are dropping leaves, the leaves turn yellow and fall off too often.

Dracaena does not like to be watered too often. The earthen lump should dry before the next watering. Young plants need to be replanted every year and at the same time increase the size of the pot by 1-2 fingers so that the roots are not crowded.

Perhaps the cause of sunken leaves is a lack of nutrients. It is necessary to feed the plant at least 1 time per month (or 1 time in 2 weeks). I use vermicompost liquid for feeding.

Dracaena also loves the presence of oxygen at the roots. Therefore, you need to periodically loosen the soil on the surface.

In the summer, spraying is beneficial, but only this should be done in the evening, when the sun is not so strong (if you say your plant is on the balcony).

Dracaena does not like dry air. This time. It needs to be sprayed. In addition, if it’s hot in the winter, dracaena will always have such dropped leaves in your apartment. They will turn yellow over time. I have 24 degrees and the dracaena was very bad.

Perhaps she is standing on your sunny side and it may be hot. Put it in the shade or just open the window so that the plant is not so hot. And in the summer you need to water the flowers twice a week than in the winter.

Dracaena their leaves leaves seldom. If this happened, it means they did not take good care of the plant, or for a long time they were not at home.

It should be noted that it is very sensitive to drafts. If put on a draft, then not only the leaves will lower.

Also, you can not put a flower in bright direct sunlight.

Unnecessary plant transfusion.

Moderate watering will save the dracaena from root decay.

More often the plant must be sprayed. She likes this dracaena, and the leaves will stand like ears in a hare in the cold.

The land in which the dracaena is transplanted or planted should not be heavy. It should be well filled with oxygen. It is possible, and it is necessary to make drainage on 1/3 of the subboil.

The soil often needs to be loosened.

Dracaena will live longer.

My dracaena lowered the leaves after they began to open the windows for ventilation in the summer. And fertilized, and reduced the number of leaves - rejuvenated, but to no avail. I removed it from the window into the room and in a day the plant came to life, all the leaves rose. Most likely she lowered the leaves due to drafts and dry air.

We dracaena lowered the leaves after moving. The moving was in winter and the plant simply froze, the leaves seemed to wilt. It didn’t turn out to be fully revived, but nevertheless for the most part it recovered over time. The reason for this may be a draft or a too sunny place.

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Low humidity

Most often, the drying of the leaves occurs in the winter, when the heating batteries are working in the room. Dracaena is a native of the humid tropics, so dry air is absolutely unacceptable to her. To increase humidity, the crown must be sprayed daily. In addition, a glass of water can be placed next to the pot. Evaporating, it will help the dracaena survive the heating period. In the summer, the flower should be sprayed several times a day and regularly arrange “shower procedures” for it.

If the lower leaves completely and periodically (on average once every two years) completely dry the lower leaves, there is no reason for concern. Thus, the plant simply gets rid of the old foliage.

Watering problems

Despite the fact that dracaena loves moisture, it does not apply to the ground - it just has to have time to dry out. Stagnant moisture is as fatal to a flower as dry air. It is enough to water the plant once a week, and the rest of the time - to spray on the sheet.

However, it is impossible for the soil to dry completely - in this case, the leaves will not only dry out from the ends, but also become sluggish and gradually fall off.

Wrong place

The most optimal place for dracaena is away from sun-drenched windows. Direct rays literally burn out spots on the leaves, both at the tips and along the entire length of the sheet.

Some species of dracaena grow well even on the northern windows. However, it should be borne in mind that varieties with variegated foliage still need more light than plain plants.

The presence of pests

The leaves of dracaena begin to dry from the tips, and then completely, if a scab has settled on the bush. The most effective method of struggle is to collect insects with your hands while they are still young and have not had time to become covered with rough shell. Otherwise, you will have to resort to special drugs.

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A bit about Dracaena

Dracaena is a beautiful exotic plant found in nature in the humid climate of the subtropics of Africa, Asia and the Canary Islands. In nature, it can reach 20 meters in height with a trunk of several girths.

Of course, indoor dracaena cannot reach such a huge size. Nevertheless, this plant is able to attract attention with its originality. It is able to make any room cozy and attractive.

Sometimes dracaena is able to reach a height of several meters, but usually does not grow more than 50 centimeters. Rosettes of greenish-gray xiphoid leaves up to 50 cm long and 5 cm wide, collected at the top of the tree in an original bunch, will decorate your home or office.

Common types of dracaena

The most common variety is marginate. Sometimes it grows up to 3 meters in height. It is decorated with panicles, as if of disheveled leaves. Long narrow leaves disappear over time, and noticeable scars remain on the high trunk.

Another species is fragrant. It is so named because of its flowers, which have a strong aroma. But flowers at home rarely appear. It can grow to a height of 6 meters. Shiny and long green leaves bend beautifully to the ground.

Sandera - completely different from the previously described and is a shrub. Its leaves are oval, bright green in color with small golden spots.

Dragon - it grows slowly, has an exotic appearance, a resin that turns red in the air like blood, its height can reach one and a half meters.

Care

Dracaena is an unpretentious plant, so caring for it is simple and easy. This is a photophilous plant, so it is preferable to place it on the southern windows. However, at the height of summer, your pet needs to be lowered.

Bright sunlight is less harmful to flowers with colorful leaves, but dracaena with darker foliage need protection from the sun.

Water them often, but in moderation. In the summer - every other day, and do not forget to have a warm shower every week. For this, water having room temperature is needed.

With a decrease in room temperature to 14-16 degrees, reduce watering, the plant falls asleep. For irrigation, you need to use filtered or boiled water. And you still need to remember the main rule: waterlogging is always more harmful than drying out. This rule is also relevant for dracaena, although it is hygrophilous.

Like other domestic flowers, she needs to be fed.

With a lack of nutrients, even green leaves can fall. You need to feed with special fertilizers. Use them according to the detailed instructions on the packaging.

Breeding methods

For propagation, apical cuttings, pieces of stems, branches and seeds can be used. Planted in peat mixed with sand. Rooting occurs within 2 to 4 weeks.

Dracaena has a highly developed root system. A tight pot inhibits the growth of the flower, so it is necessary to transplant the plant annually, before the onset of the growth period. This is the end of March or the beginning of April.

When buying a plant in a store, it is best to transplant it as soon as possible. It is necessary to correlate the size of the plant and the pot. If it is forty centimeters high, then the diameter of the pot should be no more than 15 cm.

Dracaena is suitable substrate for palm trees. Pour drainage to the bottom of the tank to avoid root rot. We transplant the plant and water it well, adding a stimulating growth drug to the water.

Plant rejuvenation

Very often, gardeners have to deal with the problem of leaf falling in dracenas. Why is this happening and what to do?

Some species grow fast enough. Over time, the trunk of the plant begins to become bare due to falling of the lower leaves. This means that the plant needs to be rejuvenated.

Only to decide on it is scary. After all, it will be a pity if such a large crown cannot root or buds grow on the trunk and such a beautiful flower dies.

Throw away all doubts, because this plant is very lively, not many indoor flowers can compare with its resistance.

Pruning should be done with the onset of spring. It is necessary to cut off with a sharp secateurs, because to do this with a knife will not work. Cut at an arbitrary height, the surface of the cut is blotted to remove the allocated juice, sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, apply a garden var or pour wax.

The height of the cut top is left about 25 centimeters, removing the sheet plates located below. Then it needs to be dried for several hours, after which it is put in water with a tablet of activated carbon. The roots on it will appear within a month. After that, the top can be planted in the prepared substrate. It can be tied to a support, this will give stability.

The part of the trunk that turned out to be "superfluous" can be cut into separate segments. Each of them should have 2-3 growth buds. Dry the resulting pieces and place in a moist substrate for rooting. You can arrange them horizontally on the surface or vertically, slightly deepening.

The stump left after the cut will soon please you with awakened kidneys.

Of these, new sprouts will begin to develop. It is important to reduce watering after pruning, because the plant has nothing to evaporate moisture that enters the roots. Watering should be increased gradually, as the green mass increases.

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Why do dracaena drop leaves?

There may be several reasons:

improper watering;
not suitable in size pot;
nutrient deficiency;
lack of moisture;
drafts and broken temperature;
the plant was frozen.

Watering

The soil should be moist, not moist. The plant is watered with settled water at room temperature, when the earthen lump dries by about 2 cm. The irrigation regimen is 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in the pot, pour expanded clay or coarse-grained sand on its bottom with a layer of 3-4 cm, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from decay. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.

Close pot

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.

A flower loves moist air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the pot on a pallet with water so that the bottom of the pot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.

Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

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Main reasons

Typically, this problem occurs due to errors made by the owners in the care process. Leaves may fall off when there is insufficient or excessive watering. There are also natural causes due to which dracaena leaves fall.

These primarily include the age of the plant. Another factor is the inappropriate microclimate. Despite the fact that this flower is considered hardy and resistant to various environmental conditions, there are certain conditions for its maintenance.

In a healthy plant, the bark is quite dense. But as practice shows, dracaena may cause deterioration of the bark and leaves. If the reason is age, then nothing will be done with it. Each leaf lives a certain time. Subsequently, it turns yellow and falls off. This is a natural process, and you will not be able to resist it in any way.

However, there are cases when, at a young age, a flower loses all its leaves. The bark also deteriorates. The trunk becomes weak. Why does dracaena do this? Because you take care of her incorrectly. You are probably watering it wrong. It is not difficult to solve this problem: it is enough to ensure timely watering, and you will be able to maintain an attractive appearance of such a plant culture.

Often the owners of such plants are afraid of under-supplying water and carry out watering in a larger amount than the flower requires. Even given the fact that dracaena loves humidity, this cannot be done. As a rule, with an excess of liquid, dracaena drops its leaves in a rather short time. In this case, the bark begins to rot, as do the roots. What to do in this situation? It is enough to simply reduce the amount of water for irrigation and to make it not so often.

It is important to complete a series of immediate actions. Remove the flower from the pot without damaging the roots and bark (i.e. with soil). Remove some of the land to inspect the condition of the root system.

Remove those roots that have rotted. Allow the rest to dry, removing any remaining soil. Subsequently do not abuse the watering. The plant will stop dropping leaves as soon as the soil moisture level is normalized and the roots dry out.

If the dracaena has a soft trunk and leaves fall, this is a likely sign of improper watering.

To do this, dry the roots and plant the flower again in less moistened ground. The stem will wither away from excess fluid. As a result, leaves that can no longer be held on a weakened "skeleton" begin to fall. It is important to ensure that in the axils of the leaves after transplantation and watering, too, no water remains. Otherwise, they will rot and fall off again.

It is imperative to maintain the right microclimate. So you will be able to save even the "bald" flower. For these purposes, set the room temperature above +15 ° C. If the flower will be in a cold room for a long time, this will lead not only to falling leaves, but also to the death of the whole plant. In addition to optimal temperature conditions, it is required to regularly feed such a culture. This flower needs nutrients such as potassium nitrous, ammonium sulphide, potassium phosphate.

The components must be mixed and diluted in warm water. It is important not to overdo it using fluoride, otherwise the plant will begin to dry out, and you will only aggravate the problem. Now you know why dracaena drops leaves. Having figured out the reason, you will be able to quickly eliminate the errors of caring for the flower and return it to a healthy beautiful appearance.

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Symptoms of care mistakes and possible causes.

The leaves lose their luster and look lifeless: The probable cause is too much light; another cause may be a red spider mite. Even healthy green leaves may appear faded if not washed.

Dots or spots on the leaves: If the dots or spots are dry and brown, then the most likely cause is a lack of water. If the affected areas are soft, dark brown light - this is most likely due to waterlogging of the soil. If the dots or spots are white or yellowish, the lesion is caused by the use of cold water during irrigation, a sharp drop in temperature, water entering the leaves, aerosol damage, or illness / pests. If the spots are reddish, silver-white or brownish - the plant suddenly appeared under the influence of direct sunlight. If the affected area becomes wet and looks like a blister, or dry in the form of dents, the cause is the disease. Some pests can also cause leaf spotting.

Brown tips or leaf edges: The most likely cause is the drying of the leaf tips to dry air. Another possible cause is physical damage, when the tips of the leaves are often touched or pressed against the glass or wall. If the edges of the leaves are yellow or brown, this can be due to several reasons: waterlogging, insufficient watering, lack of light, too much light, too low air temperature, an excess of minerals, dry air or drafts. Other symptoms will help determine the true cause.

Torn edges and holes on the leaves: Most often appear when physically damaged by pets or people (sometimes even a simple touch on an unfolded sheet can damage it) or when attacked by pests.

Variegated leaves turn solid green: This is simply due to a lack of light. Remove all processes with uniformly colored leaves (if possible) and move the pot with the plant closer to the window.

Flowers quickly fade: As a rule, this is a result of insufficient watering, dry air, lack of light or too high air temperature.

Green plaque on a ceramic pot: A sure sign of problems associated with irrigation - occurs when waterlogged soil or poor drainage.

White peel on a ceramic pot: There are two likely reasons - use too hard water for irrigation or an excess of minerals.

Dracaena hung leaves what to do. Why dracaena lowered the leaves. Varieties of dracaena - photo gallery

Symptoms of care mistakes and possible causes.

The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall

Dracaena flower - striped dragon

Care Rules

Temperature and lighting

Watering and humidity

Fertilizers and fertilizing

Reproduction and transplantation

Problems in growing?

Dracaena: how to transplant a dragon tree

Dracaena in natural and domestic conditions

Video: how to care for a lazy palm tree

How to plant or transplant indoor dracaena

Necessary soil and drainage

Proper land sterilization

The right time for a transplant

Transshipment is the best way to transplant

Step-by-step instructions for transshipment of dracaena

Transplant requirements after purchase

Landing and transplanting

Video: how can transplant dracaena

Large dracaena transplant

Video: how to transplant a high dracaena

Transplant Care

Transplant Issues

Yellowing and death of leaves

Dracaena lowered the leaves

Video: Fix Transplant Errors

Cuttings

We plant cuttings

Rooting cuttings of dracaena

Reviews of gardeners: beautiful, complaisant, unpretentious

Causes of dropped leaves in dracaena

Why do dracaena drop leaves?

Close pot

Nutrient deficiency

Temperature and humidity

How to transplant Dracaena yourself and avoid mistakes

When do I need a transplant?

What tools will be needed

Choosing the right pot

Which soil is suitable

Step-by-step instruction

Further care and mistakes for beginners

Video "Dracaena transplant"

Rules for self-transplanting dracaena

How to choose a flower pot

The dracaena transplant process

Plant transplant after purchase

Feeding dracaena after transplantation

Watering dracaena

Low humidity

Watering problems

Wrong place

The presence of pests

A bit about Dracaena

Common types of dracaena

Care

Breeding methods

Plant rejuvenation

Why do dracaena drop leaves?

Watering

Close pot

Nutrient deficiency

Temperature and humidity

Main reasons

Symptoms of care mistakes and possible causes.