Dracaena leaves fall down. Why dracaena lowered the leaves. Resuscitation of Dying Dracaena

Dracaena is a spectacular evergreen. It can be found both in apartments and in office premises. Amateur gardeners and designers, she is appreciated for its attractiveness and unpretentiousness. However, despite the undemanding and lack of whims, dracaena suffers from unintentional errors in care, attacks of pathogenic fungi, bacteria, viruses and harmful insects. This negatively affects her presentability. Therefore, you need to know what symptoms are characteristic of a particular disease or pest, and how to deal with them.

How to create an optimal microclimate in dracaena

Dracaena is quite unpretentious, and there is nothing complicated in creating an optimal microclimate for her at home. But the requirements of the plant should nevertheless be heeded, trying to create an atmosphere as close as possible to that to which it is used in nature.

Dracaena - a popular (not least because of its unpretentiousness) houseplant

Table: Suitable conditions for growing dracaena

Factor	Recommendations
Location	Nearby (1–2 m) from a window facing east or west. Putting close to the south window is not recommended to avoid sunburn. In summer, if the dimensions allow, you can move the container to fresh air. Dracaena loves him, but does not tolerate cold drafts.
Lighting	Diffused light or light partial shade. Species with variegated leaves are more demanding on lighting. All dracaena can exist in fully artificial light, if daylight hours last at least 12 hours.
Temperature	In spring and summer it is moderately warm (20–25ºС). Dracaena does not tolerate heat well. In winter, it is slightly lowered to 17–19ºС. The lower limit is 15ºС. Exceptions are fragrant dracaena, Hooker, Dragon (they suffer a short-term decrease to 10ºС). All species react negatively to sudden changes in temperature. A difference of 10 ° C or more can lead to the death of the plant.
Air humidity	Normally exists with a standard air humidity of 40-50% (especially dracones of Dragon and Godsphere are undemanding to it), but with gratitude responds to any measures to increase it. The only thing you should not do is pour water into the sump. In winter, working radiators dry the air very much, so every 2–3 days it is recommended to spray the surrounding air with warm water. In the summer, in the heat, you can spray the plant itself, but so that the drops do not fall into sockets, or arrange a shower, covering the ground with polyethylene. Be sure to wipe the leaves with a wet cloth or sponge at least once a week.

Choose a place near the window to the dracaena, it is very difficult to put it on the windowsill because of the dimensions

In addition to the optimal microclimate, a great influence on how the plant feels is provided by timely top dressing and the correct watering regime.

In summer, you need to allow the soil in the pot to dry about 4-5 cm deep. This can be determined by sticking a wooden stick in the pot. One procedure in 2-3 days is enough. In winter, intervals are increased to 5–7 days. In wet soil, when cool, rot quickly develops. Broad-leaved dracaena need to be watered more often - they have a larger evaporation area. An obvious signal is drooping, toned leaves. And do not forget to loosen the soil after each procedure.

It will also be useful material about the conditions of the Dracaena Sander

As for top dressing, there are special fertilizers for dracaena. The tree is watered with a nutrient solution every 20-30 days, after about half an hour it is well moistened with soil. If a universal tool for indoor plants is used, pay attention to the composition. Excess phosphorus and nitrogen can lead to a deterioration in the appearance of leaves. And dracaena categorically does not tolerate fluoride.

Video: home care and flower maintenance

Diseases and pests typical for dracaena and their prevention

Dracaena, which is properly looked after, is quite resistant to damage by various pathogenic fungi, viruses and bacteria. Most often, this kind of plant problem is the result of unintentional host mistakes. An invasion of pests, even a massive one, is also unlikely to lead to its death, but it will cause a lot of trouble to the grower.

The most dangerous for it are all kinds of rot, as well as bacterial and viral diseases, which cannot be cured with modern means. In this case, the plant needs to be destroyed as quickly as possible, no matter how sorry it is. Otherwise, you may lose the entire collection.

Most often, to avoid problems with dracaena, competent prevention is enough:

• quarantine for newly acquired plants for 25-30 days;
• regular inspections of the entire collection (ideally through a magnifying glass) and immediate isolation of “suspicious” specimens;
• free, without crowding, placement of pots;
• frequent airing of the room and maintaining high humidity;
• placing indoor and cut flowers as far apart as possible, especially if it is roses or chrysanthemums;
• mandatory sterilization before using pots, substrate, any tools;
• treatment of all "wounds" inflicted on dracaena in;
• implementation of recommendations for plant care, especially those related to irrigation and fertilizing;
• maintaining cleanliness - regular dusting from leaves and other authorized water procedures.

Diagnose a problem

The plant gives the grower unambiguous signals. Deterioration of his appearance is a clear sign of health problems. It is important to correctly interpret these signs, and know what to do in each case.

Table: Symptoms and Possible Causes

External manifestations	Possible reasons
	Mistakes in leaving	Disease	Pest
Yellowing and fading leaves.	Their life span is about two years. Otherwise, excessive irrigation
Turning pale, fading leaves, deforming, thinning trunks.	Deficit of light.
Falling green leaves.	Unsuitable room temperature (both high and too low), constant cold drafts.
Drying, curled and falling leaves.	Too scarce watering.
Dry brown leaf tips.	Low humidity in the room.
Dry tips and small areas of dead tissue on the leaves.	Excess fluoride in the soil - the use of unsuitable fertilizers or irrigation with hard not settled water.
Leaves that lose color saturation and yellowish or almost discolored spots on them.	Burn from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. It is almost inevitable if the plant has been sprayed before. Drops of water focus the rays no worse than lenses.
Yellowish-white spots on the leaves, dry edges.	Low temperature in the room or its sudden changes.
A discolored “watery” border around the edge of the sheet.	Excess fertilizer in the soil (too frequent fertilizing).
Blushing leaves.	Unsuitable too heavy soil with a predominance of peat.
Fine white crystals on the back of the sheet.	A natural phenomenon provoked by a single plentiful watering in combination with high humidity.
Slow growth or its complete absence.	Unsuitable soil, lack of top dressing for a long time or overly tight pot.
A flour-like coating on the leaves.
Browning soft-touch barrel.
Brownish spots, gradually pulled by a gray "pile".
Dark "watery" spots, softening tissue.
Yellowing leaves, covered with dark brown spots.
Reddish-yellow, gradually browning spots on the leaves.
Brown spots with bright green border on the leaves.
Small beige spots with a white dot in the center.
Elongated beige spots with a pale red border.
Blurry brown spots with yellow-green border.
Dark "watery" tips of leaves, "sores" on the trunk.
Brownish spots and stripes cast in bronze.
Yellow spots on leaves, braided by petioles.
Silver “scratches” and small black dots on the leaves.
Brown "plaques" on the leaves, reddish-yellow tissue around them.
Small lumps of whitish substance in the axils of the leaves and in the ground.
Many small yellow-green or black-brown insects on the underside of leaves and sticky drops on them.

What the mistakes in leaving lead to: examples in the photo

   Dracaena, which has leaf tips dried, suffers from excessively low humidity or sunburn. Dracaena leaves can be dropped for several reasons, including natural ones. So most often it looks like dracaena before dropping leaves Dracaena can very easily get burned if sprayed leave the plant in direct sunlight Browning drying leaves of dracaena mean prolonged neglect of the plant's need for moisture The yellowing of the leaves of dracaena responds to overflow

Diseases and how to cope with them

Of the fungal diseases, for dracaena, the most dangerous are all types of rot, which develop very quickly when irrigated incorrectly. If at the same time the room temperature is still below normal, this is almost inevitable.

Table: Dracaena typical diseases

Disease	Symptoms	Treatment and prevention
Small rounded pale brown spots on the trunk and leaves with a whitish dot in the middle, quickly changing color to black-gray. Gradually, the tissues in these places die.	Wipe the leaves and trunk with infusion of wood ash or colloidal sulfur. Treat the plant and soil with a solution of Topaz, Oxychoma, Kuprozan. Repeat three times at 10-day intervals. During this time, do not water with plain water, but with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. For prophylaxis, treat the flower and soil once a month with a 0.1% solution of Fundazole, Topsin-M.
Elongated beige spots with a reddish border on the leaves. Gradually they are tightened with a layer of greenish-gray plaque.
Phyllosticosis (brown spotting)	Blurry spots of irregular shape beige-brown with lime border. Then in the middle small black “grains” are formed. At risk are adults and especially old dracaena.	Cut off all infected tissue. Remove the affected leaves completely. Sprinkle the slices with activated carbon powder, chalk, cinnamon, treat with iodine or brilliant green. Spray the flower with a solution of Skor, Topaz, HOMA. Repeat three times (treatment once a week). During this time, add any biostimulator (Zircon, Epin, potassium humate) to the water for irrigation (2-3 ml per liter).
Dark brown “watery” tips of leaves, brown spots on them, small round “ulcers” on the trunk and petioles. Healthy tissues are separated from infected by a wide yellow “oily” streak.	There are no effective treatment measures. The development of bacteriosis is provoked by constant dampness in the pot, heat in the room, and alkaline soil unsuitable for dracaena.
Spotted wilting (bronze)	Leaves are almost completely covered with stripes and spots of irregular shape. Under artificial lighting, they are brownish, cast in the sun with bronze. Dracaena growth almost stops, new leaves are small and deformed.	With the help of modern means it is impossible to get rid of the virus. More often suffer from spotted wilting plants that do not feed. A deficiency of potassium and phosphorus is harmful to dracen.
Yellowness spreading through the leaves from bottom to top. Along the edge is a "watery" border. The top of the trunk wilts. He himself is thinning, changing color to brick. In especially severe cases, dracaena is covered with “weeping” brown spots.	Wash the flower under a warm shower, remove the affected leaves. Cut the slices. Spray the plant and spill the soil with a solution of Fundazole, Vectra, Benomila. Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 3-5 days. If there is no effect, use "heavy artillery" - Quadris, Bravo, Rayek. For prevention, add Fitosporin-M to water for irrigation. In the soil when transplanting add Gumistar, Trikhovit.
Root (black) rot	Brown roots and base of the trunk, mold on the soil and an unpleasant putrefactive odor coming from it.	Remove the dracaena from the pot, thoroughly rinse the substrate from the roots. Cut all dark and slimy to the touch, capturing 3-5 cm of tissue that seems healthy. Soak the roots for 20-30 minutes in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 0.5% Bordeaux fluid. Sprinkle slices with sifted wood ash, colloidal sulfur. Transplant the plant into a sterilized pot using new soil. For 3-4 months, pour 0.5% solution of Alirin-B, Baikal-EM, Previkur.
Bacterial (wet) rot	Dark "watery" spots on the leaves and trunk. Tissues in these places soften to a semi-liquid state.
Pale brown spots on the leaves, gradually dragging on a layer of grayish “pile” with multiple small black blotches.	Cut off all leaves infected with the fungus. Treat the "wounds." Wipe them and pour the soil with a solution of Abig-Peak, Kuprozan, Topaz. For a month, water the dracaena with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (0.25 g / l).
Brown rot (rhizoctonia)	Dracaena stops growing. Leaves turn yellow, discolor, then become covered with black-brown spots.	Stop watering immediately. After 3-5 days for 10-12 hours, soak the roots in a solution of Bactofit, Agata-25K, Maxim. Let them dry well. If there is no effect, change the pot and the soil.
Small brownish spots with a bright green border on the leaves.	Cut off all affected leaves. Provide the plant with optimal or near-keeping conditions. Follow the recommendations for caring for dracaena.
Leaves, as if powdered with flour. Gradually, this plaque condenses and turns brown.	Wipe off the leaves, washing them with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Powder them with powdered activated carbon or colloidal sulfur. Pour Dracaena with a solution of any fungicide twice with an interval of 10-12 days.

Photo gallery: how a plant affected by pathogenic fungi and bacteria looks like

Powdery mildew seems to be a harmless coating that is easy to erase, but it is by no means. Brown spotting is a rather rare disease. Dracaena, affected by brown rot, practically stops growing. Gray rot is easy to recognize, but not easy to cure. Tissues affected by bacterial rot turn in semi-liquid mass Root rot is very difficult to recognize on time, and the disease can only be treated in the early stages of development. Fusarium plants in the garden often suffer, but indoor plants are not protected from infection. The plant that suffers from spotted wilting can only be thrown out. It is still impossible to cure bacteriosis Phylostyctosis most often affects adults and old dracaena Greenish-gray plaque that appears as heterosporosis develops, contains fungal spores Tissues affected by alternariosis gradually die, holes remain on the leaves, holes remain on the leaves

Video: Dracaena Disease Treatment

Dracaena attacking pests

Most pests, even having bred in a multitude, will not kill dracaena. But this does not mean that they do not need to be fought. The plant did not “bring” any exotic insects from its historical homeland. You have to deal with the most common insects and ticks that feed on its juice.

Table: Common Pests

Pest	Symptoms	Control and Prevention Measures
Rounded "plaques" of different shades of brown on the back of the sheet. Gradually they “swell”, the tissues around them acquire an unnatural yellow-red color. In severe cases, the soil turns black.	Grease visible pests with shells with machine oil, acetic acid, and pure alcohol. After a few hours, the guards can be removed. Wipe the leaves with soap suds, rinse with water. Treat the plant with Actara, Permethrin, Fufanon. If necessary, repeat another 1-2 times with an interval of 5-7 days.
Thin, almost transparent filaments braiding the petioles. On the underside of the leaf are brown dots and blurry pale or yellowish spots around them.	Wipe the leaves with alcohol, vodka or any alcohol tincture. After 15–20 minutes, use a damp sponge. Sprinkle liberally and pour dracaena, for 2-3 days, if possible, tightly cover with polyethylene. To enhance the effect, put the same container with chopped onions, garlic, turpentine. If there is no result, use acaricides - Neoron, Agravertin, Sunmayt, Apollo. A minimum of 3-4 treatments with different drugs will be required. The interval between them is 5-12 days. For prevention, weekly spray the plant with a decoction of cyclamen tubers. Or irradiate the leaves with a quartz lamp for 2-3 minutes on both sides.
Discolored leaves, small black dots and silver-beige thin “scratches” visible on the inside.	Apply soap foam or whipped flea shampoo to the leaves, leave it under polyethylene for 2-3 days. Or spray it with an oil emulsion (35-40 ml of any vegetable oil per liter of water). Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 5-7 days. If there is no result, use Fitoverm, Spintor, Actellik (2-3 times with an interval of a week).
Lumps of dirty cotton-like plaque in the axils of the leaves and at the base of the trunk. Leaves quickly turn yellow and dry.	Spray Dracaena with a soapy alcohol solution. After 2-3 hours, wash the leaves with clean water. At the same time, remove the visible “lumps” with a wooden stick. Treat the flower and soil with infusion of tobacco chips, dry mustard, red pepper. Or apply on a leaf any preparation with Neem tree oil. If there is no effect, use Spark-Bio, Calypso, Mospilan (2-3 times with an interval of 5-10 days).
Large colonies of small insects clinging to the underside of leaves (especially young ones) and the top of the trunk. Then a sticky transparent coating appears.	Wipe off the insects with soapy foam. Cut off specially affected leaves. Arrange dracene souls. 3-4 times a day spray the plant with tinctures of orange peels, onion husks, needles, and any sharply smelling herbs. If there is no effect, treat Dracaena Biotlin, Admiral, Confidor-Maxi. Repeat every 5–7 days until aphids disappear completely.

Photo Gallery: How Dracaena-Infecting Pests Look

Aphids are distinguished by a rare “omnivorous”, dracaena is also part of its interests. If you do not pay attention to the mealybug, very soon the plant will be covered with a continuous carpet of stirring “fluff”. Small black dots on the leaves are nothing other than thrips. The spider mite is not an insect , therefore, to combat it, not general insecticides are used, but special preparations - acaricides. Durable carapace of the scale shield - reliable protection against most folk remedies.

Video: common pests of indoor plants and their control

Plant Resuscitation

Most often, the dracaena requires urgent resuscitation, its owner is to blame. Most painfully, it reacts to improper watering - “drought” or “swamp” in the pot.

In the first case, cut off all the dry leaves to living tissue without touching the growth point at the top of the dracaena. Every 2-3 days, spray with a solution of any biostimulant. Rearrange as close to the south-west or south-east orientation window. Water according to the instructions. If the roots are not affected, after 2-3 months the dracaena will give new leaves. When the growth point has dried up, you will have to cut it off and hope that the side kidneys “wake up”. But the chances of it are not so many.

In a waterlogged substrate, the development of rot is almost inevitable. Drazen needs to be transplanted as soon as possible, regardless of the time of year. But this procedure does not guarantee success; it will be effective only at an early stage of the development of the disease. In the process, be sure to cut off all the roots affected by the fungus, do not forget to sterilize the new pot and soil. At first, be very careful with watering, but spray the dracaena daily. Select capacity according to the size of the root system (plus a maximum of 2-3 cm).

What to do with a broken dracaena palm

Dracaena is a fairly massive plant, so the aboveground part can simply outweigh the pot. Also, the “fractures” she often received are the result of the intense activity of children and domestic animals. In this case, do not be upset. If everything is done correctly, instead of one plant you will get two.

Broken dracaena - not a reason to arrange a tragedy

The easiest way is when the trunk broke, but did not break at all. “Tires” are placed on it, as if on an arm or leg, and the skin is fixed so that it covers the “wound” if possible. You can wrap strips of sphagnum moss or coconut fiber on top.

Do not forget to "seal" the cut

Otherwise, the remaining part of the plant in the pot:

1. Saw off the barrel evenly below the point of damage. It is advisable to do this according to the “scars” left from the fallen leaves.
2. Disinfect the section with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% m Bordeaux fluid.
3. Pour with liquid wax, paraffin, cover with garden var. If nothing is at hand, apply 2-3 coats of oil paint.
4. Put the plant in partial shade. Water sparingly. When growth buds form, return to normal care.

Also, material on methods of propagation of dracaena will be useful:

The side kidneys on the dracaena "wake up" for a long time, be patient

Broken tip:

1. Cut at an angle of approximately 45º. Try to do this as smoothly as possible, without “flaking” and chipping. Let it dry for 2-3 hours.
2. Tear off the interfering leaves. Put in a container with a biostimulator prepared according to the instructions. Succinic acid and activated carbon can be used (per tablet for every 200 ml). An alternative is rooting in wet perlite, vermiculite, sand. The slice will need to be sprinkled with any powdery root stimulator.
3. Change the water every 3-4 days, regularly moisten the substrate. Provide bottom heating, daylight hours of at least 12 hours and a temperature of approximately 25ºC.
4. Be patient. The rooting process can last 3-4 months or even six months. When the first new leaf appears, transplant the plant into soil suitable for adult dracaena.

Most often, the broken tip of the dracaena is rooted in water

Video: rooting dracaena cuttings

Dracaena, like any houseplant, is not immune from attacks of diseases and pests. However, it is quite resistant to them, and the tree, which is properly looked after, rarely suffers. Nevertheless, individual errors in care, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can trigger a deterioration in the appearance of dracaena. If nothing is done, the plant may even die. Therefore, it is important to be able to recognize what caused these or other symptoms, and know what to do to deal with the problem.

Due to its tropical appearance, dracaena decorates the home interior and is widely used in the design of office premises. The plant is considered unpretentious and resistant to disease. But if you notice problems when growing this "palm", you need to respond urgently. First you need to accurately diagnose the disease, and then immediately proceed to the treatment of the disease.

Optimal home environment for growing dracaena

Dracaena is a beautiful tropical plant native to Africa, Asia and South America. Externally, the plant looks like a palm tree, but in fact it is not, but belongs to the asparagus family.

In nature, you can find multi-meter specimens with lignified trunks, long wide leaves of green color or with stripes of different shades.

In total, there are about 150 species of plants. The most popular are Dragon, Fragrant, Massangeana, Marginata (bordered), Deremskaya, Bent, Sandera (lucky bamboo), etc.

Varieties of dracaena - photo gallery

Dracaena Dracaena has variegated leaves Dracaena Dragon has as sharp as teeth of a legendary animal, leaves Dracaena Unbent leaves are bent upwards It is believed that Dracaena Sandera, or lucky bamboo, attracts luck Dracaena Massangeana has a strong tree-like trunk
  Dracaena Marginata more than other species resembles a palm tree

Knowing the features of the growing conditions, it is easy to avoid the disease dracaena:

Dracaena diseases can be fungal, bacterial or viral.

We diagnose infectious diseases - table

Symptom	Care Error	Disease
Round stains of brown hues appear on the stem and leaves, later fungal spores form in their place and the lesion site turns black.	Fungal spores got into the soil, excess moisture	Alternariosis
The tips of the leaves dry out, spots with black dots appear inside.	Excessive watering, cold room, heavy soil	Phyllosticosis
Oblong spots are beige, yellow with a red or brown edging, a green coating is possible, the leaves quickly turn yellow and dry.	Improper irrigation regimen, infection in the ground	Heterosporosis
Spots of various shapes, brown stripes, deformation of young shoots.	Weakened immunity due to improper conditions	Spotted wilt
Yellow stripes on the leaves and moist brown plaque (rot) at the tips, ulcers on the petioles and stems.	Heavy soil, waterlogged soil, high alkali content in the substrate	Bacteriosis

Most dracenes are susceptible to fungal diseases. The most common of these are alternariosis and phylosticosis. As a rule, the disease occurs with high air humidity and excess moisture in the soil. Also, the cause of the disease is spores of fungi that could be in the soil or were introduced from the outside. For example, unsterilized garden equipment that has previously come into contact with an infected plant can become a carrier of an infectious disease.

If dracaena is transplanted into heavy garden soil, it is often and abundantly watered with running unsteady water, with a high degree of probability this will lead to a bacterial disease. Of all species of dracaena, Dracaena is most susceptible to bacteriosis.. This beauty is especially popular with amateur gardeners for the colorful leaves and the difference in their colors. However, these leaves are also often chosen by bacteria and fungus.

Professional gardeners note that dracaena is quite resistant to viral diseases. But still, rarely does a flower strike a spotted wilt. This virus can infect a plant in which immunity is already weakened. For example, immunity is reduced if the flower suffers for a long time from improper care or is damaged by insect pests. With a viral infection, dracaena stops growing and begins to fade.

Dracaena diseases - photo gallery

With phyllosticosis, the tips of the leaves dry. With alternariosis, the leaves can become brown stained. Spotted wilting leads to the fact that the plant can rot.

Dracaena insects - table

Symptoms	Pest	Treatment
On the inner side of the leaves there are dark (red) spots entangled in cobwebs; when the tick multiplies, white sticky plaque and white larvae appear on the leaves, trunk (similar to white sticks).	Wash sheets with hot soapy water (50 ° C), treat with acaricide. Repeat the procedure after 7 days
The sheet is covered with a silver film, black dots, similar to scratches, form inside the sheet; a sticky coating appears, the sheet bends and dries out.	Thrips	Spray three times with an insecticide (Decis) with an interval of 1-2 weeks
Withered dry foliage, the inside is covered with sticky mucus, beige and brown swollen spots inside the leaf plate.	Shield	Wash leaves with soapy water and spray with an insecticide (Fitoverm or Intavir)
White plaque, similar to the accumulation of cotton shreds or white sticks, is located in large groups on the leaves and sinuses, the leaves dry and deform, covered with sticky colorless drops.	Mealybug	Remove insects with soapy water, treat twice with an insecticide with an interval of 2 weeks
Leaves turn yellow, curl, dry out, sticky coating, there are many white dots on the underside of the leaf and stems (aphid larvae can also be yellow, green or black, depending on the species).	Aphid	Spray with insecticides up to 3 times with an interval of 2 weeks

Pests of indoor plants - photo gallery

The leaf is covered with a silver film with black dots inside. The mealybug looks like an accumulation of cotton swabs. Aphids look like white specks. The scabbard forms beige, brown swollen spots. The spider mite weaves a web

Other causes of plant problems are care errors

With improper care, the dracaena loses its decorative appearance: the plant grows poorly, discards leaves, the trunk becomes thin and bare, bends. Therefore, first of all, check, maybe your dracaena is not sick, but simply groomed.

Fungal infections most commonly affect Dracaena

The main problems in care and their consequences:

In most cases, the flower is exposed to infection by microbes or an attack of insects precisely with weakened immunity, which is due to improper care.

The onset of plant disease can be seen by the state of the leaf. It should be borne in mind that the process of drying and dying of the lower leaves of dracaena is a natural sign of growth. These leaves should be trimmed, and the trunk will eventually become stiff in that place.

In other cases, an unhealthy color of foliage signals problems of care.

We solve problems

The health problems of dracaena can be completely different. Let's try to figure out what needs to be done in each case. Let's start with the leaves.

If dark spots appear on the leaves, perhaps the plant suffers from excessive watering and stagnation of water in the pan. It is necessary to check the condition of the roots of the plant.

If the roots of the plant are completely rotted, the trunk of the dracaena becomes soft. This phenomenon can occur as a result of frequent and abundant watering of the soil. The plant is unlikely to be able to cure. The recommended temperature for healthy plant growth is from 16 to 25 ° C.

Rotting trunk of dracaena may be the result of frequent watering

If the trunk froze and became soft

Staying for a long time in drafts, outdoors or indoors, where the air temperature is below 18 degrees, dracaena freezes.

If the top is frozen, you need to cut it to a healthy trunk

At the same time, the stem of the plant may still remain alive (firm and firm to the touch), and the leaves become limp and lowered. They can’t be saved. If the top of the dracaena dropped, you need to rejuvenate the trunk:

1. Cut off the crown with a clean knife until the beginning of the living (dense) tissue. Discard the top, and sprinkle the place of the cut on the trunk with crushed coal.
2. Place the pot with the plant in a sunny place in a warm room (temperature 22–25 ° C). Eliminate the possibility of drafts.
3. Pour the flower with a complex fertilizer diluted half as much as indicated in the instructions.
4. Every week, spray the trunk and soil with a growth stimulator for plants.
5. Observe the correct watering regime and wait for the dracaena to recover and give side kidneys.

If the tip is broken

What to do if the top of the dracaena is broken and a healthy long trunk remains:

If the trunk is too long or crooked

There are times when the dracaena is rapidly growing: the trunk grows in height quickly, but in itself is thin and not strong enough. This can happen if the dracaena is completely satisfied with the conditions of her detention, but she is standing in a poorly lit place. For example, the trunk quickly becomes thin and long at the dracaena of the Bordered and Deremsky.

There is no need to rush to say goodbye to your favorite plant, because one can be done from one in such situations. Dracaena can be performed anti-aging pruning and divide the trunk into several parts:

How to treat Dracaena from lesions - details

To combat fungal diseases, the flower must be carefully treated with a fungicide. It is also advisable to transplant the plant and replace the infected soil with sterilized soil.

The use of fungicides in fungal diseases

For treatment, it is recommended to use a solution of Fundazole in the proportions of 10 grams per 500 ml of water. Spray the infected tree once every 2 weeks, repeat the procedure three times. An alternative to Fundazole can be the treatment of a sick plant with Topaz or another drug that contains copper. All procedures are carried out strictly according to the instructions and in a well-ventilated area.

Fundazole is used for any fungal infections of plants.

For the prevention of fungal diseases of dracaena, it is necessary to avoid overmoistening of the soil, cool and dark rooms, contact with untreated garden tools.

Viral infections and bacterial diseases of dracaena are currently considered incurable.  Unfortunately, a diseased plant must be destroyed so as not to infect other indoor flowers.

Transplantation into sterile soil

With fungal diseases or with the development of root rot from waterlogging or freezing of an earthen coma, the roots begin to rot in the plant, fungal spores multiply in the soil. To get rid of them, dracaena needs to be transplanted into sterile soil.

Procedure:

1. Pull the flower out of the pot, completely free the root system from contaminated soil under running water.
2. With a clean knife, cut off rotten roots (they will be soft to the touch) to healthy parts and treat with Fitosporin's solution (spread the paste according to the instructions).
3. Place the finished substrate for dracaena in a heated oven for 10 minutes; for sterilization, the temperature regime should be set to 200 degrees. Cool.
5. To restore and build up the root system, choose a smaller pot for the flower (3 cm in diameter and less than the previous height). Add a layer of expanded clay, sterilized soil and plant dracaena in the usual way.

How to use insecticides

Leaves of dracaena are attacked by a scab, a spider mite and other pests, especially if the flower is in a cool room with dry air.

Actellik - one of the most popular insecticides. The drug Aktara has a hazard class 3 (moderately dangerous for humans). Fitoverm is considered the least dangerous drug from pests.

As a rule, treatment with folk remedies helps in the fight against spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, and scabies and thrips are destroyed after treatment with insecticides.

Green soap helps in the care of dracaena

Resuscitation of Dying Dracaena

If the dracaena has been ignored for a long time and already has a dying appearance, it is still worth trying to save it.

If the bottom of the plant has rotted

With frequent and plentiful watering, the roots rot in the dracaena, and later the trunk and the top rot. This situation can be called hopeless, the plant can only be thrown away. In rare cases, the leaves and part of the trunk may not have time to suffer, then you need to try to save the crown and root it like an apical stem:

1. With a sharp sharp knife, cut off the apical shoot with part of the trunk (healthy and strong). The top should have a healthy appearance: the leaves are dense, and the trunk is solid. Make a cut perpendicular to the trunk, sprinkle the place of cut with crushed coal.
2. Leave the resulting stalk in the air for two hours, so that the cut point is slightly dry.
3. Place the handle in a transparent glass with settled water at room temperature and add a root stimulant, for example, Kornevin. Dilute half as much as indicated in the instructions.
4. Put a glass with a handle on a sunny windowsill.
5. As necessary (if it blooms), change the water in a glass, add.
6. When roots more than 5 cm appear, plant the dracaena in a small pot, deepening the cuttings with roots 2 cm in the sterilized soil.

If the top is dry

If the dracaena has not been watered for a long time, for example, during a long vacation, the plant can lose all the leaves from a lack of moisture, and the growth point itself can dry out.

Drying of the growth point is irreversible and requires trimming of dracaena

In this case, there is still a chance to save the plant. For this:

1. First of all, the dracaena needs to arrange “bath procedures”. In order to wet the earthen lump well and uniformly and revitalize the root system, the flower pot should be placed in a basin for half an hour with standing warm water (water should be at room temperature).
2. The dried-up top should be cut with a sharp knife and discarded, treat the cut site with activated powdered charcoal and wait for the side (sleeping) kidneys to wake up.
   

   Think about the height at which to trim the trunk so that the plant is aesthetically pleasing.

3. Spray the flower once a week with a plant growth stimulator, for example, Epin.
4. Watering should be carried out moderate once a week, while twice a month to introduce complex fertilizers for dracaena.
5. Put the pot with the plant 2 meters from the solar window so that the scattered rays of the sun fall on the plant.
6. A month later, dracaena should appear new leaves from the side buds.

When caring for and rehabilitation of a plant, observe the following rules:

Dracaena is one of the most popular home flowers, used not only as an indoor plant, but also as an office plant. To ensure a flower's long life, you need to know the general rules for caring for it; it is especially important to recognize diseases on time. A serious and obvious symptom of ill health is leaf fall. Find out why this is happening and how to solve this problem.

Why Dracaena drops leaves: the main reasons

Homeland dracaena are tropical forests. Externally, the flower resembles a palm tree: it has a straight stem that ends with a rosette of long leaves growing 20-60 cm in length.

Dracaena is a flower that tends to drop leaves, but this is not a natural process. With a large loss of leaves, the plant dies, so this problem should cause immediate intervention by the gardener.

Did you know? « Dracaena»   translated from the ancient Greek language  as« dragon female". Also called shrub« dragon tree» . The name comes from a legend that long ago, two giants - a dragon and an elephant - converged in battle. The dragon was crushed by an elephant, and in the place where drops of his blood fell, huge trees with a magnificent crown grew.

In addition, it is precisely decorative qualities that are highly valued in dracaena, and the loss of deciduous cover will deprive the flower of its main content advantage.
The main reasons for falling leaves are:

It should be borne in mind that dracaena itself throws off the leaves, if it is no longer a young plant. The maximum lifespan of dracaena is 15 years; when approaching this age, leaf fall is a natural process.

Violation of conditions

If the plants wilted and fell off in a short time, and the trunk began to rot and dry, it is necessary to change the conditions of the flower.

  Good growth will be ensured by such parameters of care:

1. Temperature. The plant loves a temperature of + 20–25 ° C in the summer. And in the cold season, the minimum allowable temperature is + 16 ° C. If you keep the flower at a lower temperature, it will stop growing and fall into suspended animation.
2. Lighting. Dracaena loves the sun, since the plant was brought from the sunny tropics, however, direct rays are harmful to it. It is best to place the pot in partial shade. The most sensitive to light are variegated dracaena.
3. Location in the house. Since direct rays are undesirable for the plant, it is best to place it on the east or west side of the house. Most often located on the windowsills.
4. Pruning. A necessary process for the growth of lateral buds of a tree. The flower must be at least 30 cm high - only then can it be cut. You can remove leaves in spring or summer.
5. Moisturizing. A tropical plant requires plenty of moisture, especially in winter, during the heating season. To do this, you need to do air spraying near the flower pot.

Improper maintenance of the shrub at room conditions leads to the fact that it loses its natural beauty and color of leaves, the shape of the bush, the health of the trunk and root system. Therefore, before you buy such a plant, it is important to familiarize yourself with the rules of its cultivation in advance.

Lack or excess of fertilizer

Complex fertilizers are used as top dressing for dracaena. They must be given a flower twice a month, during the period of active growth, from approximately March to early September.

In gardening shops you can buy special fertilizers for dracaena: "Rainbow", "Ideal", "Dracaena."

The lack of trace elements, especially potassium, leads to the fact that the flower is covered with bronze spots and stripes. And from an excess of fertilizing, the roots and stem of the dracaena can rot.

Important!The abundance of fertilizers containing fluoride can lead to loss of color of leaves and their fall.

Wrong watering

Watering is the main way to nourish the shrub with water. To prevent the death of dracaena, you need to remember that she loves abundant watering, but it is not necessary to fill it too much, otherwise the root system will become waterlogged and begin to rot, and with it the stem.

In summer, dracaena is watered once every two to three days, while checking whether the earth has dried up at the base of the stem. Water is used at room temperature. Additionally, water is sprayed from the spray near the plant, thus moistening the air next to it. Withering leaves is a signal that you need to water more often.

In winter, the flower rests, and he needs watering every 3-4 days. However, if your plant stands on a windowsill under a battery, it needs to be watered more often. It is necessary to focus on the soil: if it has already dried up and you do not see wet spots - then you can water the pot again.

Transplant root damage

Since the root system of dracaena grows rapidly, very soon the gardener will be faced with the need to transplant it into a new pot. For a flower with a height of about 40 centimeters, a container with a diameter of 15 centimeters is needed.

The roots of the shrub are quite strong, but nevertheless, when separating the stems, it is important not to damage them, otherwise the plant will not develop further.

Important!A transplant should not be done more often than once every 2-3 years.

It is better to carry out the procedure in late March - early April. When replanting, do not forget to keep the drainage layer in the pot so that the bush does not have an excess of moisture.

Pests and diseases

Diseases and pests can nullify any efforts of the gardener. To prevent this from happening, you need to be able to determine their symptoms in time.

Did you know? According to the ancient Aztec legend, the cut trunk of the dracaena in the full moon will bring happiness and love.

How to save a plant

If you notice signs of illness or a sharp fall of leaves in your dracaena, you need to decide how to reanimate the shrub.

In order not to treat bush diseases, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures in time to prevent diseases.

Important!Note that each year a flower drops a small amount of yellowed leaves from the bottom of the stem to prepare for the winter season. This is a natural process.

1. When planting in a pot, make a drainage system. In this way, you provide the roots with protection against excess water.
2. The flower does not tolerate drafts, but dies at low temperature. Therefore, in the cold season, make sure that the plant does not freeze.
3. Dracaena is a moisture-loving bush, and requires increased humidity of air and soil. Do not miss watering the plants even in the winter season.
4. Also, do not apply too much fertilizer to the soil so that the leaves do not fall. In this case, it is better to add less minerals so as not to burden the soil.

Dracaena is an exotic plant that at any time of the year will remind you of the sea, palm trees and relaxation. It is not difficult to grow it, you just need to follow the basic rules of maintenance. And even if the plant was struck by the disease, it is important to help him in time, eliminating the cause of the falling leaves.

Many owners of dracaena face various problems in caring for such a plant. The most common - in dracaena, leaves fall. Let's find out what are the causes of this phenomenon, and what to do to save the flower.

Typically, this problem occurs due to errors made by the owners in the care process. Leaves may fall off when there is insufficient or excessive watering. There are also natural causes due to which dracaena leaves fall.

These primarily include the age of the plant. Another factor is the inappropriate microclimate. Despite the fact that this flower is considered hardy and resistant to various environmental conditions, there are certain conditions for its maintenance.

How to save a plant

In a healthy plant, the bark is quite dense. But as practice shows, dracaena may cause deterioration of the bark and leaves. If the reason is age, then nothing will be done with it. Each leaf lives a certain time. Subsequently, it turns yellow and falls off. This is a natural process, and you will not be able to resist it in any way.

However, there are cases when, at a young age, a flower loses all its leaves. The bark also deteriorates. The trunk becomes weak. Why does dracaena do this? Because you take care of her incorrectly. You are probably watering it wrong. It is not difficult to solve this problem: it is enough to ensure timely watering, and you will be able to maintain an attractive appearance of such a plant culture.

Often the owners of such plants are afraid of under-supplying water and carry out watering in a larger amount than the flower requires. Even given the fact that dracaena loves humidity, this cannot be done. As a rule, with an excess of liquid, dracaena drops its leaves in a rather short time. In this case, the bark begins to rot, as do the roots. What to do in this situation? It is enough to simply reduce the amount of water for irrigation and to make it not so often.

It is important to complete a series of immediate actions. Remove the flower from the pot without damaging the roots and bark (i.e. with soil). Remove some of the land to inspect the condition of the root system.

Remove those roots that have rotted. Allow the rest to dry, removing any remaining soil. Subsequently do not abuse the watering. The plant will stop dropping leaves as soon as the soil moisture level is normalized and the roots dry out.

If the dracaena has a soft trunk and leaves fall, this is a likely sign of improper watering.

To do this, dry the roots and plant the flower again in less moistened ground. The stem will wither away from excess fluid. As a result, leaves that can no longer be held on a weakened "skeleton" begin to fall. It is important to ensure that in the axils of the leaves after transplantation and watering, too, no water remains. Otherwise, they will rot and fall off again.

It is imperative to maintain the right microclimate. So you will be able to save even the "bald" flower. For these purposes, set the room temperature above +15 ° C. If the flower will be in a cold room for a long time, this will lead not only to falling leaves, but also to the death of the whole plant. In addition to optimal temperature conditions, it is required to regularly feed such a culture. This flower needs nutrients such as potassium nitrous, ammonium sulphide, potassium phosphate.

Why did dracaena drop leaves?

My dracaena lowered the leaves as soon as I brought to the balcony after the winter, which I didn’t do, but the leaves didn’t rise, but returned to the room for 3 days, she rose and now the beauty is standing, she has dismissed all the leaves.

Dracaena, although an unpretentious houseplant, but still to be beautiful and lush (the leaves looked up), you need to properly care for it. The first signs that the dracaena lacks care are dropping leaves, the leaves turn yellow and fall off too often.

Dracaena does not like to be watered too often. The earthen lump should dry before the next watering. Young plants need to be replanted every year and at the same time increase the size of the pot by 1-2 fingers so that the roots are not crowded.

Perhaps the cause of sunken leaves is a lack of nutrients. It is necessary to feed the plant at least 1 time per month (or 1 time in 2 weeks). I use vermicompost liquid for feeding.

Dracaena also loves the presence of oxygen at the roots. Therefore, you need to periodically loosen the soil on the surface.

In the summer, spraying is beneficial, but only this should be done in the evening, when the sun is not so strong (if you say your plant is on the balcony).




Dracaena does not like dry air. This time. It needs to be sprayed. In addition, if it’s hot in the winter, dracaena will always have such dropped leaves in your apartment. They will turn yellow over time. I have 24 degrees and the dracaena was very bad.

Perhaps she is standing on your sunny side and it may be hot. Put it in the shade or just open the window so that the plant is not so hot. And in the summer you need to water the flowers twice a week than in the winter.

Dracaena  their leaves leaves  seldom. If this happened, it means they did not take good care of the plant, or for a long time they were not at home.

It should be noted that it is very sensitive to drafts. If put on a draft, then not only the leaves will lower.

Also, you can not put a flower in bright direct sunlight.

Unnecessary plant transfusion.

Moderate watering will save the dracaena from root decay.

More often the plant must be sprayed. She likes this dracaena, and the leaves will stand like ears in a hare in the cold.

The land in which the dracaena is transplanted or planted should not be heavy. It should be well filled with oxygen. It is possible, and it is necessary to make drainage on 1/3 of the subboil.

The soil often needs to be loosened.

Dracaena  will live longer.




My dracaena lowered the leaves after they began to open the windows for ventilation in the summer. And fertilized, and reduced the number of leaves - rejuvenated, but to no avail. I removed it from the window into the room and in a day the plant came to life, all the leaves rose. Most likely she lowered the leaves due to drafts and dry air.

We dracaena lowered the leaves after moving. The moving was in winter and the plant simply froze, the leaves seemed to wilt. It didn’t turn out to be fully revived, but nevertheless for the most part it recovered over time. The reason for this may be a draft or a too sunny place.

info-4all.ru

Low humidity

Most often, the drying of the leaves occurs in the winter, when the heating batteries are working in the room. Dracaena is a native of the humid tropics, so dry air is absolutely unacceptable to her. To increase humidity, the crown must be sprayed daily. In addition, a glass of water can be placed next to the pot. Evaporating, it will help the dracaena survive the heating period. In the summer, the flower should be sprayed several times a day and regularly arrange “shower procedures” for it.

If the lower leaves completely and periodically (on average once every two years) completely dry the lower leaves, there is no reason for concern. Thus, the plant simply gets rid of the old foliage.

Watering problems

Despite the fact that dracaena loves moisture, it does not apply to the ground - it just has to have time to dry out. Stagnant moisture is as fatal to a flower as dry air. It is enough to water the plant once a week, and the rest of the time - to spray on the sheet.

However, it is impossible for the soil to dry completely - in this case, the leaves will not only dry out from the ends, but also become sluggish and gradually fall off.

Wrong place

The most optimal place for dracaena is away from sun-drenched windows. Direct rays literally burn out spots on the leaves, both at the tips and along the entire length of the sheet.

Some species of dracaena grow well even on the northern windows. However, it should be borne in mind that varieties with variegated foliage still need more light than plain plants.

The presence of pests

The leaves of dracaena begin to dry from the tips, and then completely, if a scab has settled on the bush. The most effective method of struggle is to collect insects with your hands while they are still young and have not had time to become covered with rough shell. Otherwise, you will have to resort to special drugs.

www.glav-dacha.ru

A bit about Dracaena

Dracaena is a beautiful exotic plant found in nature in the humid climate of the subtropics of Africa, Asia and the Canary Islands. In nature, it can reach 20 meters in height with a trunk of several girths.

Of course, indoor dracaena cannot reach such a huge size. Nevertheless, this plant is able to attract attention with its originality. It is able to make any room cozy and attractive.

Sometimes dracaena is able to reach a height of several meters, but usually does not grow more than 50 centimeters. Rosettes of greenish-gray xiphoid leaves up to 50 cm long and 5 cm wide, collected at the top of the tree in an original bunch, will decorate your home or office.

Common types of dracaena

The most common variety is marginate. Sometimes it grows up to 3 meters in height. It is decorated with panicles, as if of disheveled leaves. Long narrow leaves disappear over time, and noticeable scars remain on the high trunk.

Another species is fragrant. It is so named because of its flowers, which have a strong aroma. But flowers at home rarely appear. It can grow to a height of 6 meters. Shiny and long green leaves bend beautifully to the ground.

Sandera - completely different from the previously described and is a shrub. Its leaves are oval, bright green in color with small golden spots.

Dragon - it grows slowly, has an exotic appearance, a resin that turns red in the air like blood, its height can reach one and a half meters.

Care

Dracaena is an unpretentious plant, so caring for it is simple and easy. This is a photophilous plant, so it is preferable to place it on the southern windows. However, at the height of summer, your pet needs to be lowered.

Bright sunlight is less harmful to flowers with colorful leaves, but dracaena with darker foliage need protection from the sun.

Water them often, but in moderation. In the summer - every other day, and do not forget to have a warm shower every week. For this, water having room temperature is needed.

With a decrease in room temperature to 14-16 degrees, reduce watering, the plant falls asleep. For irrigation, you need to use filtered or boiled water. And you still need to remember the main rule: waterlogging is always more harmful than drying out. This rule is also relevant for dracaena, although it is hygrophilous.

Like other domestic flowers, she needs to be fed.

With a lack of nutrients, even green leaves can fall. You need to feed with special fertilizers. Use them according to the detailed instructions on the packaging.

Breeding methods

For propagation, apical cuttings, pieces of stems, branches and seeds can be used. Planted in peat mixed with sand. Rooting occurs within 2 to 4 weeks.

Dracaena has a highly developed root system. A tight pot inhibits the growth of the flower, so it is necessary to transplant the plant annually, before the onset of the growth period. This is the end of March or the beginning of April.

When buying a plant in a store, it is best to transplant it as soon as possible. It is necessary to correlate the size of the plant and the pot. If it is forty centimeters high, then the diameter of the pot should be no more than 15 cm.

Dracaena is suitable substrate for palm trees. Pour drainage to the bottom of the tank to avoid root rot. We transplant the plant and water it well, adding a stimulating growth drug to the water.

Plant rejuvenation

Very often, gardeners have to deal with the problem of leaf falling in dracenas. Why is this happening and what to do?

Some species grow fast enough. Over time, the trunk of the plant begins to become bare due to falling of the lower leaves. This means that the plant needs to be rejuvenated.

Only to decide on it is scary. After all, it will be a pity if such a large crown cannot root or buds grow on the trunk and such a beautiful flower dies.

Throw away all doubts, because this plant is very lively, not many indoor flowers can compare with its resistance.

Pruning should be done with the onset of spring. It is necessary to cut off with a sharp secateurs, because to do this with a knife will not work. Cut at an arbitrary height, the surface of the cut is blotted to remove the allocated juice, sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, apply a garden var or pour wax.

The height of the cut top is left about 25 centimeters, removing the sheet plates located below. Then it needs to be dried for several hours, after which it is put in water with a tablet of activated carbon. The roots on it will appear within a month. After that, the top can be planted in the prepared substrate. It can be tied to a support, this will give stability.

The part of the trunk that turned out to be "superfluous" can be cut into separate segments. Each of them should have 2-3 growth buds. Dry the resulting pieces and place in a moist substrate for rooting. You can arrange them horizontally on the surface or vertically, slightly deepening.

The stump left after the cut will soon please you with awakened kidneys.

Of these, new sprouts will begin to develop. It is important to reduce watering after pruning, because the plant has nothing to evaporate moisture that enters the roots. Watering should be increased gradually, as the green mass increases.

ogorodsadovod.com

podokonnik.temadnya.com

Why do dracaena drop leaves?

There may be several reasons:

• improper watering;
• not suitable in size pot;
• nutrient deficiency;
• lack of moisture;
• drafts and broken temperature;
• the plant was frozen.

Watering

The soil should be moist, not moist. The plant is watered with settled water at room temperature, when the earthen lump dries by about 2 cm. The irrigation regimen is 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in the flowerpot, pour claydite or coarse-grained sand with a layer of 3-4 cm on its bottom, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from decay. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.

In the hot summer period, the flower needs to be sprayed. To wash off the dust and refresh it, we recommend once a month to put the plant in the shower, covering the ground with cellophane. After bathing the leaf growth point, blot with a napkin.

Close pot

The second reason that the leaves are constantly lowered down may be an improperly sized flower pot. If it is small, then plant nutrition is difficult. Roots need space. Check the tightness of their fit to the walls of the pot. If necessary, transplant a flower.

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

Lower leaflets may fall down due to insufficient nutrients. In a tight pot with a very developed root system, the earth quickly becomes poorer, the upper crown grows due to the lower foliage. During the period of active growth from April to September 1-2 times a month, feed the roots with pre-selected fertilizers. When watering, you can use liquid fertilizers according to the instructions.

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.

A flower loves moist air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the pot on a pallet with water so that the bottom of the pot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.

Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. Evergreen palm up to 35 years old is considered to be young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

villaved.ru

Main reasons

Typically, this problem occurs due to errors made by the owners in the care process. Leaves may fall off when there is insufficient or excessive watering. There are also natural causes due to which dracaena leaves fall.

These primarily include the age of the plant. Another factor is the inappropriate microclimate. Despite the fact that this flower is considered hardy and resistant to various environmental conditions, there are certain conditions for its maintenance.

In a healthy plant, the bark is quite dense. But as practice shows, dracaena may cause deterioration of the bark and leaves. If the reason is age, then nothing will be done with it. Each leaf lives a certain time. Subsequently, it turns yellow and falls off. This is a natural process, and you will not be able to resist it in any way.

However, there are cases when, at a young age, a flower loses all its leaves. The bark also deteriorates. The trunk becomes weak. Why does dracaena do this? Because you take care of her incorrectly. You are probably watering it wrong. It is not difficult to solve this problem: it is enough to ensure timely watering, and you will be able to maintain an attractive appearance of such a plant culture.

Often the owners of such plants are afraid of under-supplying water and carry out watering in a larger amount than the flower requires. Even given the fact that dracaena loves humidity, this cannot be done. As a rule, with an excess of liquid, dracaena drops its leaves in a rather short time. In this case, the bark begins to rot, as do the roots. What to do in this situation? It is enough to simply reduce the amount of water for irrigation and to make it not so often.

It is important to complete a series of immediate actions. Remove the flower from the pot without damaging the roots and bark (i.e. with soil). Remove some of the land to inspect the condition of the root system.

Remove those roots that have rotted. Allow the rest to dry, removing any remaining soil. Subsequently do not abuse the watering. The plant will stop dropping leaves as soon as the soil moisture level is normalized and the roots dry out.

If the dracaena has a soft trunk and leaves fall, this is a likely sign of improper watering.

To do this, dry the roots and plant the flower again in less moistened ground. The stem will wither away from excess fluid. As a result, leaves that can no longer be held on a weakened "skeleton" begin to fall. It is important to ensure that in the axils of the leaves after transplantation and watering, too, no water remains. Otherwise, they will rot and fall off again.

It is imperative to maintain the right microclimate. So you will be able to save even the "bald" flower. For these purposes, set the room temperature above +15 ° C. If the flower will be in a cold room for a long time, this will lead not only to falling leaves, but also to the death of the whole plant. In addition to optimal temperature conditions, it is required to regularly feed such a culture. This flower needs nutrients such as potassium nitrous, ammonium sulphide, potassium phosphate.

The components must be mixed and diluted in warm water. It is important not to overdo it using fluoride, otherwise the plant will begin to dry out, and you will only aggravate the problem. Now you know why dracaena drops leaves. Having figured out the reason, you will be able to quickly eliminate the errors of caring for the flower and return it to a healthy beautiful appearance.

grow-me.ru

Symptoms of care mistakes and possible causes.

The upper leaves retain elasticity, but turn yellow: It is caused, as a rule, by a high content of calcium in the soil - in those plants that cannot tolerate lime, or by the hardness of water for irrigation.

The leaves lose their luster and look lifeless: The probable cause is too much light; another cause may be a red spider mite. Even healthy green leaves may appear faded if not washed.

Leaf discoloration (chlorosis): The leaves discolor and turn yellow, the streaks remain green. Usually this happens with a lack of iron and magnesium. Both elements are needed to keep the leaf green. Irrigation with water containing a lot of calcium leads to such a deficiency: calcium binds iron in the soil. You can fix this by starting to use iron chelates or brown algal extract and pour softened water.

Leaves discolor until they become transparent: This is due to a lack of nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary, in particular, for the formation of green leaves. To restore the green color of the leaves, it is necessary to fertilize with liquid fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. More long-term support may be horny flour, which must be gently mixed into the upper layer of the earth.

Drooping leaves: Common causes are either drying out the soil (due to insufficient watering) or waterlogging of the soil (due to poor drainage or too frequent watering). Other reasons may be an excess of light (especially if the leaves wilt regularly in the middle of the day), dry air, too high air temperature, a cramped pot or pests.

Leaves curl and fall: The edges of the leaves curl and sometimes become dry. Twisting the leaves of plants is a measure of self-defense, because this reduces the surface of the leaf and less water evaporates from it. This happens when the plant is in a too warm place or receives little water. It is necessary to water the plant until the soil is completely saturated, or dip it in water and hold it. Choose a cooler place for him.

Leaves fall off suddenly: Rapid leaf fall without a previous long period of withering or discoloration usually indicates a shock suffered by the plant. It can be caused by a significant temperature difference (both lowering and increasing), a sharp increase in the intensity of illumination in the daytime or a strong cold draft. Sudden falling of leaves, especially in tree plants, can also be caused by drying out of the soil at the roots.

Leaves turn yellow and fall: The lower leaves of an adult plant naturally turn yellow over time and then fall. When this happens simultaneously with several leaves, the probable cause is waterlogging of the soil, lack of nitrogen, too dark place or cold drafts. First of all, you need to drastically reduce watering or completely replace the earth and less often water it. Regularly feed with appropriate fertilizers. Move the plant to a brighter place.

The lower leaves dry and fall: Three likely causes are a lack of light, too high air temperature and insufficient watering. The plant should be rearranged in a brighter place. Soak an earthball completely with water, immersing the pot for several hours in water. Move from a warm place to cooler conditions.

Leaves on new plants fall: For newly transplanted, just bought or transferred from one room to another plants, it is natural to lose one or two lower leaves. The shock from a change of scenery can be mitigated if the plant is transplanted only in a slightly larger pot than the previous one, sheltered when moving home from the store and transferred from a poorly lit place to a bright light with an intermediate stay for several days in partial shade.

Dots or spots on the leaves: If the dots or spots are dry and brown, then the most likely cause is a lack of water. If the affected areas are soft, dark brown light - this is most likely due to waterlogging of the soil. If the dots or spots are white or yellowish, the lesion is caused by the use of cold water during irrigation, a sharp drop in temperature, water entering the leaves, aerosol damage, or illness / pests. If the spots are reddish, silver-white or brownish - the plant suddenly appeared under the influence of direct sunlight. If the affected area becomes wet and looks like a blister, or dry in the form of dents, the cause is the disease. Some pests can also cause leaf spotting.

Brown tips or leaf edges: The most likely cause is the drying of the leaf tips to dry air. Another possible cause is physical damage, when the tips of the leaves are often touched or pressed against the glass or wall. If the edges of the leaves are yellow or brown, this may be due to several reasons: waterlogging, insufficient watering, lack of light, too much light, too low air temperature, an excess of minerals, dry air or drafts. Other symptoms will help determine the true cause.

Small pale leaves and elongated stems: This happens in winter and early spring, after the plant was kept in low light at too high a temperature and excessively heavy watering. If possible, the ugly part of the plant is removed. If such symptoms appear during the growth period, then the reasons may be a lack of minerals or too poor lighting.

Leaves and stems rot: This is caused by a disease that occurs under poor conditions. Often the cause of the disease is waterlogging of the soil in winter or water getting on the leaves, especially if it remains overnight.

Torn edges and holes on leaves: Most often appear when physically damaged by pets or people (sometimes even a simple touch on an unfolded sheet can damage it) or when attacked by pests.

Variegated leaves turn solid green: This is simply due to a lack of light. Remove all processes with uniformly colored leaves (if possible) and move the pot with the plant closer to the window.

A plant does not grow slowly or at all: In winter, this is normal for all plants, so do not force it to grow. In summer, the most likely cause of growth retardation is a lack of minerals, waterlogging of the soil, or insufficient lighting. If these reasons are excluded, then the pot may be cramped.

The plant does not bloom: Several reasons can lead to the fact that an adult plant does not bloom at the right time. The most likely causes associated with lighting are a lack of light or an unsuitable length of daylight for a plant. Other causes may be an overabundance of minerals, dry air, thrips, or transplantation (some plants bloom only in a tight pot).

Buds fall: The reasons why leaves fall can also cause buds or flowers to fall. This is most often caused by dry air, insufficient watering, lack of light, moving the pot with the plant to another place and pest damage.

Flowers quickly fade: As a rule, this is a result of insufficient watering, dry air, lack of light or too high air temperature.

Green plaque on a ceramic pot: A sure sign of problems associated with irrigation - occurs when waterlogged soil or poor drainage.

White peel on a ceramic pot: There are two likely reasons - use too hard water for irrigation or an excess of minerals.