At the palm leaves fell what to do. Dracaena lowered the leaves after transplanting. The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall

Dracaena is considered a very unpretentious indoor plant. She does not need special care. But in order for the flower to please the eye as long as possible with its splendor and beauty, respond in time to any changes in its appearance. What are the drooped leaves of dracaena talking about?

We will analyze what causes this problem and what needs to be done to solve it.

There may be several reasons:

• improper watering;
• not suitable in size pot;
• nutrient deficiency;
• lack of moisture;
• drafts and broken temperature;
• the plant was frozen.

Watering

The soil should be moist, not moist. The plant is watered with settled water at room temperature, when the earthen lump dries by about 2 cm. The irrigation regimen is 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in the pot, pour expanded clay or coarse-grained sand on its bottom with a layer of 3-4 cm, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from decay. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.

In the hot summer period, the flower needs to be sprayed. To wash off the dust and refresh it, we recommend once a month to put the plant in the shower, covering the ground with cellophane. After bathing the leaf growth point, blot with a napkin.

Close pot

The second reason that the leaves are constantly lowered down may be an improperly sized flower pot. If it is small, then plant nutrition is difficult. Roots need space. Check the tightness of their fit to the walls of the pot. If necessary, transplant a flower.

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

Lower leaflets may fall down due to insufficient nutrients. In a tight pot with a very developed root system, the earth quickly becomes poorer, the upper crown grows due to the lower foliage. During the period of active growth from April to September 1-2 times a month, feed the roots with pre-selected fertilizers. When watering, you can use liquid fertilizers according to the instructions.

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.

A flower loves moist air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the pot on a pallet with water so that the bottom of the pot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.

Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. Evergreen palm up to 35 years old is considered to be young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

Dracaena has an original look that attracts attention against the background of the overall interior design.

Such a palm tree is quite popular among lovers of indoor plants and due to its simple care.

In numerous photos you can see beautiful trees with a luxurious crown, which have grown to unimaginable sizes. This happened due to the positive qualities of the plant.

At some point, the ends of the leaves of the dracaena dry. This can happen for several reasons.

It is important to determine the source of the problem, as this will help in the process of treatment and recovery.

In order not to lose the plant, immediate recovery measures must be taken.

If we take into account and prevent negative effects on the plant, then there will simply not be problems with the drying of the ends of the leaves.

Reasons why leaves fall and fall

Sometimes it happens that the dracaena drops leaves after they are fully or partially lowered.

There are only three reasons why the green part of the dracaena falls first down, and then completely falls.

Why dracaena throws off leaves:

1. If the plant is more than 3 years old, then the leaves fall off due to old age.
2. If the dracaena lowered the green part and the leaves have already begun to fall from below, then the flower is poorly watered.
3. Low temperature for the plant is the main reason for leaf falling.

By the way the leaves went down and fell, you can determine the cause of “baldness”. The nature of the fall is pronounced in each of the cases, so it is almost impossible to make a mistake.

Attention! The Marginata dracaena variety most often undergoes “baldness” and leaf dropping.

From old age, the leaves fall off completely, being replaced by new units.

With poor watering, the leaves are in a lowered state for a long time, turn yellow and then fall off. From the cold there is a loss of still green leaves.

Brown spots

Often brown spots appear on the green crown of the dracaena, which catastrophically threaten the life of the flower.

Each problem stains its own brown color, which has particular distinguishing features.

Causes of brown spots:

Why the trunk blackens and dries: plant diseases

The following metamorphoses can occur as a result of the vital activity of such organisms with dracaena: the trunk dries, the leaves change color, the trunk becomes soft or empty.

In the fight against diseases and pests, it is important not to overdo it with treatment, as this can also negatively affect the condition of the flower.

Attention! Sometimes a flower affects several diseases at the same time, so an integrated approach to treatment may be required.

To treat the plant correctly, it is better to consult a specialized store.

How to help Dracaena

In order not to bring the flower to a terrible state, you need to properly care for it. Proper care is the best help for dracaena.

If any malfunctions occur, it is important to decide how to help the plant in any circumstances. There are several options for salvation, each of which corresponds to the situation.

What to do to save dracaena in some situations:

1. For any type of disease, special sprays and “medications” will be needed.
2. You can reanimate dracaena exclusively by transplanting into another container with new soil.
3. To eradicate problems with spots on the greenery of the crown, it is worthwhile to establish a watering regime and find a suitable place in the room.
4. Once every 2-3 years you need to transplant the plant into a new pot with suitable soil.

It is easy to save the plant if you follow the basic rules regarding transplantation and subsequent care. It is worthwhile to carefully monitor the indoor plant so as not to provoke an exacerbation of the disease.

Useful video

Among indoor plants, dracaena, which is sometimes called the "false palm", is very popular among gardeners.

Attracts a deep, rich color of its leaves, the splendor of the crown.

However, if the plant begins "leaf fall", then everything is for real, without "false modesty" - from its former beauty in a matter of days there may be one bare stem.

To prevent this from happening (although the reasons can sometimes be objective, and they can not be avoided), you need to carefully monitor the condition of the green pet and, having felt something was wrong, take measures.

The main problems in dracaena, as in most cultures whose homeland is the tropics, are associated with acclimatization. In an ordinary city apartment the plant often lacks heat and humidity. Both that, and another dracaena need to be given in addition, and to do it competently, without going to extremes.

If you find that the dracaena has a soft trunk and leaves are falling, the bark has become wrinkled, so you went too far with watering.

If the leaves begin to curl or turn into a tube (this may mean that the plant died) - therefore, you could not provide the green pet with a comfortable temperature, you did not save him from sudden transitions from one microclimate to another.

Problems to the flower are also created by diseases and pests, which must be learned to recognize in a timely manner.

Of all the varieties, the threat of “baldness” most often arises in Marginata, in other varieties this problem is less pronounced. The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall may be as follows:

• natural aging (leaves of this culture live from 2 to 3 years);
• water scarcity;
• cold air, drafts.

To help the plant, it’s important to figure out which of the reasons your flower is ruining.

If it is aging, then this is an objective and unregulated process. Fortunately, nature provided that at the same time all the leaves of the dracaena will not leave - those of them whose maturity has approached will begin to turn yellow, then curl, blacken and fall off. After some time, new, healthy leaves will appear in the vacated places.

In case of lack of water, massive leaf fall does not occur either.

The difference is that the aged leaves dry out completely, and the fallen leaves, due to the scarcity of watering, still partially retain their vitality.

If the gardener overdoses with watering, the plant begins lose green leaves   - this is due to the fact that the roots rotted in waterlogged soil and the plant dies.

Temperature discomfort (especially cold, draft) is expressed in the loss of green foliage by the plant.

If yellowness on the leaves appears like gray hair in a person, for natural reasons, it may not capture the whole sheet, but its tips. In this case, specialists recommend trimming by removing only the yellowed part and leaving healthy. This will preserve the decorativeness of the culture.

Often the problem arises due to the fact that the plant does not have enough sun. Most varieties have enough soft, diffused light, and even a short winter day does not have a negative effect on them. However, in some cases, dracaena cannot do without backlighting and informs the owner about the yellowness of its leaves.

A similar reaction occurs due to excessive irrigation. And if the dracaena has fallen leaves and yellowed, this may be due to a lack of nutrients in the soil. It is especially dangerous to keep a flower on a starvation diet during its active growth - from April to the end of August.

CAUTION:if water regularly remains in the axils of the leaves after watering and spraying, this can cause a color change from green to yellow.

This trouble can happen even with young foliage, if the flower grows in the same pot, without replacing the soil, 3-4 years.

Salts accumulate in it, due to which the plant is not able to fully absorb nutrients, even if the owner regularly feeds his pet.

Suction roots, the main conductor of nutrients in the flower’s body, die from salinity.

Due to malnutrition, the tips of old leaves also dry out. In addition, the problem may lie in the structure of the soil - if it is clayey, heavy, poorly transmitting water.

ATTENTION:the tips of the leaves sometimes begin to dry due to a supersaturation of the soil with fluorine. This element is part of fertilizers for tropical crops, which should be used exactly according to the instructions so as not to harm the flower.

Never reassure yourself with the phrase that “there are spots in the sun”: spots on dracaena leaves pose a threat to flower health   and most often appear due to insufficient care for the plant, and their color helps determine the essence of the problem. This is what they are talking about:

If the trunk of the dracaena wrinkled, the leaves began to fall off, the probability of mistakes that the owner made, most likely through inexperience, was high. The main thing is to have time to fix them in time.

Among the most common mistakes:

• wrong, too generous watering (in fact, the soil in the pot between the waterings should dry out, control its condition by sticking a thin wooden stick in the ground);
• high air dryness (remove the flower away from heating appliances);
• insufficient lighting (the plant needs to be provided with additional highlighting);
• exposure to cold air (frozen leaves will help "wash" with warm water);
• lack of nutrients (buy fertilizer in the form of a stick in a flower shop and stick it in the soil - your pet will regularly receive top dressings in the volume necessary for him).

ATTENTION:if the leaves turn yellow after an unsuccessful transplant, help the flower recover by spraying the soil with Epin.

Specialists (in order to prevent various diseases) recommend add potassium and phosphorus to fertilizers. Unfortunately, this is not enough to avoid diseases completely.

Dracaena diseases can be:

Pests affecting dracaena can be in the soil or get on it from neighboring, already infected plants. Signs of ill health are cobwebs, specks, sticky plaque. Among the pests:

This video talks about another pest of dracaena and how to deal with it:

How to reanimate dracaena, if the trunk is fragile, the bark wrinkles, and the leaves begin to rot? Required   "Surgical intervention" in the form of cuttings: cut off the top of the dracaena and either immediately root it in the ground, or put it in a container of water so that the roots appear. This usually takes 2 months.

If the poor condition of the dracaena is associated with dry air, bring the pet back to life a warm shower will help. So that the water does not flood the roots, the pot should be placed in a plastic bag and tighten its edges around the trunk.

If the stem (and subsequently a full-fledged plant) has been standing in the water for too long, its trunk may turn yellow. This is because the aquatic environment contributes to the activation of bacteria, and the changed color of the trunk is an indication that the plant may die. You can avoid this development by urgently replacing the dracaena in a pot of earth.

A plant affected by cold air will be saved by a few sprays of warm water and placing the pot in a draft-protected place. In cases where the temperature dropped below 15 degrees Celsius, there is a great danger that the roots were affected. If the check shows that it turned out that way and the roots began to rot, they are removed and the dracaena is transplanted into a new pot. In cases when there are practically no healthy roots, the top of the flower is cut off and root.
   What to do with a broken dracaena

The broken lignified part of the stem is fairly easy to root. To do this, you need to cut the place of the scrap with a sharp knife (the cut should be horizontal), hold it in the air for a while to dry it, and lower it into a container of water, where an activated carbon tablet is added (it will protect the future plant from decay).

The remaining part of the stem in the pot can also be saved. The fracture site is neatly trimmed and filled with wax. After a short time, shoots will appear on the sides of the stem.

If the broken is not lignified, but a green shoot, it is recommended to root it in moss or in the sand. In order for the roots to form faster, the tip of the shoot is processed in the “Kornevin” preparation, and in the future they will organize artificial heating (the best temperature is 25 degrees).

TIP:if the stalk selected for rooting is very small, they stick it into the ground and cover it with a glass jar, providing a greenhouse effect.

We liked this plant due to its unpretentiousness and graceful beauty. Perhaps, dracaena is one of the few palm trees that are able to grow in a closed environment without special supervision. Therefore, if you decide to get a room palm, you will have plenty to choose from. After all, variegated African women have varieties for every taste! Dracaena flower is a home photo and care in this material.

Family:   dracenic. Bloom:   depends on the species. Cultivation:   simple.

Dracaena flower - striped dragon

Previously, dracaena and all its species, and it has about 80 of them, belonged to the asparagus family, and only recently found the eponymous "family" of dracaenas. The name comes from the Greek word "dracaina", which means "female dragon." It is not surprising that the people called the plant "dragon tree." And one of the varieties has a symbolic meaning at all: it is believed that the tree grew on the spot where the dragon’s blood was shed ...

A characteristic feature of dracaena of this species is red resin, which is used as a coloring matter. From ancient times dried red juice was served as dragon blood and used for embalming. Dragon dracaena is considered a symbol of the island of Tenerife, local residents consider this magnificent tree sacred. The variety is distinguished by its impressive size, sometimes up to 30 m high and unusual shape of the crown. The tree is a long-liver, the oldest was found even before the development of the island, the trunk girth was 15 m., And according to various sources, it was several millennia old.

The dragon tree can be called one of the most useful: all varieties are volatile plants that cleanse the air of harmful fumes. Filter plants.

Do you know ...
The popular bamboo spirals that we see in bouquets and floral arrangements are not bamboo at all, but one of the varieties of dracaena, namely Sander.

The birthplace of these many plants is Africa, some dracaenas feel comfortable in South Asia, the tropics of Central America, Australia and New Guinea. Dragon tree is often confused with cordilina, which is smaller. In the landscaping of the premises, several of the most decorative types are used. Dracaena home photo and views.

Fragrant Dracaena - African with a powerful trunk and wide leaves, blooming with white and very fragrant flowers. In shape, they are similar to flowers of Sansevier. The dimensions of the plant require a lot of space, it can grow to the ceiling.

d. fragrant
d. fragrant

Another flowering species, Dragzen Godzeff, she surkolosa - this is the most unusual and rare variety. Three varieties are known: Punctulata, Florida Beauty, and Milky Way. This species pleases with flowering on any windows, even oriented to the north side, requires support in the growth process, reaches a height of 3 m. The flowers are small, white, with a pleasant smell. The leaves are shaped like hoya leaves.

d. Godzeff
d. Godzeff Florida Beauty
d. surkolosa Milky Way and Punctulata

The flower of Dracaena deremensky became the progenitor of many spectacular varieties. These are miniature shrubs with fringed broad leaves, approx. 80 cm. Lemon Laim and White Stripe, Kanzi and White Jewel varieties are very beautiful. As they grow, the lower leaves fall, forming a dense, but short stem.

d. Deremenskaya Kanzi and White Jewel
d. Deremenskaya White Stripe and Lemon Laim

Dracaena bent away is very sweet, until it exceeds 40 cm, then the trunk begins to bend, and when shifted, it twists. Therefore, this species requires careful shaping and multiple cropping. The most beautiful varieties are Song of India and Song of Jamaica. By the way, this is the most capricious of room types.

d. bent Song of India and Song of Jamaica

The most famous fringed dracaena has varieties with bright pink, cream and light green stripes on the leaves: Colorama and Magenta. An evergreen tree grows up to 3 m tall and often forms several tops. The variety with a narrow filamentary border along the edge of the sheet was called Dracaena Marginata.

d. Marginata
d. Bordered by Magenta and Colorama

According to an ancient Aztec legend, the dracaena flower is considered a tree of happiness. So, the warrior, who once fell in love with the daughter of the high priest, was doomed to suffering. The father of his beloved was ready to give him his daughter as a wife only if leaves grew on a stick stuck in the ground. For five days, the lover desperately watered a lifeless stick, and on the night of the full moon it came to life. Since then, a twig cut off at midnight on the full moon is considered a symbol of eternal love!

Care Rules

These palm trees are the best-bought plants, they can be grown everywhere, they are extremely hardy and do not require custody. Despite the abundance of species, the growing rules for all are approximately the same. The site flowery-blog.ru will tell in more detail.

Temperature and lighting

Dracaena and its species are photophilous, but in different ways. In the direct sun, only fringed, without fear, put up, the rest can get burns. The very best lighting is the morning sun, or bright diffused light. In winter, so that narrow slightly colored leaves do not grow, the plant needs to be additionally illuminated. An exception is Godzeff's dracaena (except for its variegated species), she prefers bright diffused lighting, but she will calmly suffer a lack of light in winter.

Dragon palm grows well in room conditions, the minimum allowable temperature is 15 degrees with sparse watering, and the most comfortable approx. 25, provided that the room is not stuffy.

Watering and humidity

Regular, and most importantly moderate watering is the key to good growth and development of a room palm. A dragon tree easily tolerates a temporary lack of moisture, but a systematic overflow in a compartment with a lack of light and low temperature is harmful to the roots. Depending on the size of the pot and temperature, you can water in 7-12 days. 8 important watering rules.

Humidity does not play a special role in the growing process, but spraying will not hurt, especially in the hot season. In addition, it is periodically necessary to clean the leaves of dust with a soft cloth. Sheet top dressing.

Fertilizers and fertilizing

During active growth, the dragon tree requires regular feeding. It is carried out 2 times a month with any fertilizer for decorative and deciduous. In summer, you can alternate mineral mixtures with organic top dressing. In winter, if there is growth, you can maintain the plant by fertilizing 1 time in 2 months. If the flower hibernates in low light and humidity conditions, it is better to exclude any fertilizer.

On a note
Flowering occurs from December to April. With artificial pollination at home, round fruits with seeds can be tied.

Reproduction and transplantation

Dracaena transplantation is performed once a year for young specimens and every 3 years for adults. For large palm trees, only the top layer of the substrate in the pot can be changed annually. When choosing a pot, it is important to consider that the root system of dracaena is voluminous, so the plant needs a spacious pot with good drainage. In this case, it is better to give preference to sustainable ceramics! A good time for a transplant is the end of winter or the beginning of spring.

The substrate should be loose, nutritious and slightly acidic. How to determine the acidity of the soil. For the mixture, they take garden soil, peat, sand and a little leaf or coniferous humus. In the absence of the necessary components, you can confine yourself to garden soil and purchased peat mix, which are combined to achieve the optimal consistency. How to make soil for flowers.

Most bushy varieties initially have a beautiful, low rosette of leaves, but with age, the stalk is gradually exposed and they take the form of “false palms”. Top trimming stimulates branching. Dracaena Marginata (bordered) is also amenable to formation, from the trunks they make “candelabra” with three or five horns, “dead loops” and randomly twisted voluminous bushes. It remains only to maintain a given shape.

For the dracaena flower, propagation is carried out by cuttings in the spring. Most species are easily rooted by apical and stem cuttings in water, or a light mixture of sand and peat (photo above).

Problems in growing?

Dracaena flower care for which is not complicated, little susceptible to disease and rarely suffers from pests. But weakens and loses attractiveness in inappropriate conditions.

If the dracaena turns yellow ...

The most dangerous reasons for this behavior are excessive watering, lack of light, or low temperature. Any of these factors provokes rot of the root system and intense decay of the foliage. Carefully check the moisture level in the pot with a wooden skewer: if the soil sticks, watering should be postponed.

Clogged and heavy soil can also cause yellowing of the leaves. Earth must be loose and breathable. Feeding that supports beauty is also important. For decorative foliage palm trees, this is, first and foremost, nitrogen! When a flower grows for a long time in one pot, a strong deficiency of trace elements occurs, therefore periodically do transhipment.

If dracaena has dry leaf tips ...

This phenomenon is quite rare and not progressive. The reason for this is dry air, especially in winter. Try to place the pot with a palm tree away from heating appliances, more often spray the leaves. So that the defect is not very noticeable, you can trim the ends with scissors at an angle to the central vein.

If dracaena grows pale leaves ...

The flower of dracaena can change color in conditions of nutritional deficiency - in cramped conditions, inappropriate poor substrate, or in the complete absence of top dressing during growth. In addition, wintering becomes a difficult period, when the temperature is high and there is little light. Far from the light source, many palm trees change their direction of growth, stretch to the sun, and bend. From time to time it is useful to turn the pot and provide a sufficient level of lighting.

If there are spots on the leaves of dracaena ...

A palm tree could overheat in the sun, or freeze in a cold draft, so place your "pet" correctly. Low temperature plus high humidity contribute to the appearance of fungal diseases in the form of spots and plaque on the leaves. Diseases of indoor flowers.

• If dracaena lowered the leaves ...

This behavior is typical for palms after transplantation, especially dracaena Marginata reacts particularly strongly to it. Otherwise, it is worth checking the soil, it may be very dry and the plant is thirsty! In a compartment with yellow leaves, this may, on the contrary, be a sign of overflow.

Of the pests, the most dangerous is the spider mite, which tips will help get rid of: pests of indoor flowers.

Dracaena is a home photo of which you saw a popular houseplant that has many varieties of variegated and flowering in reserve. Growing it is not difficult!

If you still have questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. ? If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Dracaena: how to transplant a dragon tree

In recent years, dracaena has firmly established itself in the first lines of the list of popular indoor plants. Very similar to a palm tree, it is more patient and complaisant than the Hamedorei, Neantes and other eminent tropical beauties. Dracaena is easy to care for, at home it can reach three meters in height and live for several decades. But the longevity will be only that dracaena, which is properly looked after and which ensures a timely transplant.

Dracaena in natural and domestic conditions

Dracaena is a palm tree for busy and not too zealous gardeners. Although she is not even related to palm trees. Only in appearance it is very similar: a slender bare trunk with a cap of leaves on top.

In nature, dracaena lives for a very long time. On the island of Tenerife, a sacred dragon tree grew 23 meters high with a trunk circumference of 15 meters. Inside the hollow of this giant, locals who worshiped the dracaena built an altar. According to the biologist and educator N.M. Verzilin, who described this tree in the last century, sailors could see this tree back in 1402. On the same island, a 21-meter dracaena was found, which is still alive today, which is supposedly over 300 years old.

The false palm of the dracaena from the true ones compares favorably with its unpretentious disposition, modest requirements to the conditions of detention, and the ability to forgive the florists of their mistakes.

This plant, especially marginata (edged) and dragon tree, can green the dark corners of your home. It grows without problems in partial shade.   Varieties with variegated leaves feel better in bright but diffused lighting. Direct rays can burn delicate greens. Dracaena loves artificial lighting, so she often decorates offices.

Dracaena does not require special temperature, it is suitable for moderate, indoor: in summer +25 and above, in winter 18–20 degrees. That's just from its sharp drops and from drafts Dracaena must be protected - after all, she is a southerner.

It is advised to regularly spray dracaena and moisten the air for them. But this fully applies only to particularly delicate species, for example, fragrant and bent. As practice shows, the plant has already acclimatized to the dryness of our apartments.   Although, of course, a warm spray shower will be welcome. Dracaena will also like the hygienic rubbing of leaves from dust.

Summer watering of dracaena should be plentiful: the hotter, the more. In winter, water is given sparingly, but the soil is not completely dry. The lower the temperature, the less moisture. Excess water at the roots leads to disease. Therefore, it is useful to loosen the topsoil so that the air penetrates into the pot without hindrance.

Over the years, dracaena, like real palm trees, loses lower leaves. This is a natural occurrence. It is necessary to worry if leaf fall becomes massive.

To stimulate lateral kidneys and rejuvenate, it is recommended to cut the dracaena.   Healthy plants, growth not less than 30 cm, cut off the top with a sharp knife, about 5-6 cm. It can then be rooted. The wound must be greased with garden varnish or sprinkled with charcoal. After about a month, new shoots should appear under the cut.

Video: how to care for a lazy palm tree

How to plant or transplant indoor dracaena

Dracaena is usually transplanted every two years. But this rule can be violated. If the plant develops well, does not cause concern - it is better not to disturb it.   Even the most skilled transplant is very stressful for the plant.

The root system will inevitably be injured during this operation. But in some situations, transplantation is the only way out.

When you need to transplant a dracaena:

The root system of the dracaena develops inland, it has few lateral processes.   Therefore, when choosing a new pot, pay attention to the tall and narrow containers. After transplanting, there should be enough space below for root development.

The size of the container depends on the size of the dracaena. A guideline here can be a plant 40–45 cm tall, which requires a pot with a diameter of 15–20 cm. Every 2-3 years, the diameter should increase by 2-3 cm, not more.   You should not save money and take dishes for growth for dracaena. The roots will not be able to settle in a large volume of soil, the moisture will stagnate and the putrefactive process will begin.

To think for a long time what is better: plastic or ceramic - it makes no sense, the picky dracaena grows equally well in dishes made of any material. So here rely only on your taste and finances.

But be sure to check the drainage holes in the pot, and if they are not there, be sure to do it.   They must be large enough to rid the plant of unnecessary moisture.

Necessary soil and drainage

Dracaenas are not capricious in the choice of soil. False palms like a breathable, moderately nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic (6–6.5 pH) substrate with a slight addition of loosening components and peat.

You can buy specialized soil for dracaena or palm trees, or you can make a mixture yourself. Here are some recipes:

• turf land - 2 parts, leaf and compost - 1 part each, peat - 0.5;
• on 2 shares of turf land - 1 deciduous and 0.5 coarse sand;
• on 2 shares of turf land, 1 share of sand, peat and humus land;
• equally leafy land, horse peat, chopped moss and half a fraction of perlite or coarse sand;
• into two parts of rotted compost or humus for part of leafy soil, sand or vermiculite;
• turf land, greenhouse and deciduous humus in equal shares, half of the share is river sand;
• universal soil for indoor plants half diluted with garden soil, add a little chopped moss.

Useful additives can be added to the soil mixture for dracaena: crumbs of charcoal or red brick.   Coal protects the roots and the earth from rot, and brick enhances friability and absorbs excess moisture. The proportion is approximately the following: on a bucket of soil 3-4 handfuls of coal and 0.5 kg of crushed brick. Like Dracaena and coconut fiber. Soak the briquette just before adding it: the coconut substrate greatly increases in volume.

Expanded clay, pebbles, vermiculite, brick chips, polystyrene are suitable for the drainage layer. Do not use drainage twice, especially expanded clay and brick, it is not worth it, it absorbs harmful salts.

Proper land sterilization




It is better to sterilize the soil in advance, about a month before the intended transplant. It should lie down and come to life.

The right time for a transplant

Young dracaena (3-4 years of age) are usually transplanted in a year or two, adult specimens every 5 years or less. You can deal with transplantation during the entire period of vegetation (growth), that is, from spring to mid-autumn. But spring (in March - April) relocation is the best option.   The plant has awakened from hibernation, is actively building greenery and root system. This means that the new land will be quickly and profitably inhabited.

However, in some cases it is necessary to change the soil and the pot even in late autumn. For example, a plant became ill from overflow, pests were found in the soil, or you purchased dracaena growing in the transport soil, and it is still far from spring. In an autumn transplant for a plant, there is nothing too extreme. Just take a closer look at the migrant and create milder conditions for him. If the dracaena does not take root, spray it with warm water with the addition of a stimulant (Zircon, Epin, Skor).

Transshipment is the best way to transplant

Transshipment is the most sparing type of transplant. It is suitable for healthy adult plants that need a little more room for growth. When transshipment, earthen is stored unchanged. And new soil is poured between it and the walls of the pot.   As a rule, dracaena perfectly tolerates this procedure. She does not have to spend energy on adaptation.

Step-by-step instructions for transshipment of dracaena

• Before transshipment for 3-4 days, do not water the dracaena, then the earthen coma can be saved.
• Prepare new soil, drainage and pot.
• At the bottom, pour a drainage layer, a little soil.
• Tilt the pot with dracaena or, if the size allows, turn over to get an earthen lump with roots. You can push it through the drain hole.
• Place an earthen lump in the center of the new pot, the top of the lump should be only slightly below the top edge of the container.
• Gradually sprinkle the earth from different directions, compacting with your fingers and shaking the pot.
• Do not fill the pot to the top to make it convenient to water the plant, and do not leave voids in the ground.
• After transplanting, water the dracaena well.
• Put it in a warm (+ 20–22 о С), slightly shaded place.
• Water sparingly for two weeks, avoiding overflow, occasionally spray. Observe the condition of the plant.
• If there are no problems, put the dracaena in a permanent place and take care as usual.

Transplant requirements after purchase

When buying dracaena, be careful. Look at the foliage, it should be clean with green tips.   Often in flower shops you can see plants with cut leaves. This means that they are incorrectly contained: in too dry air or without watering, and by cutting the ends of the leaves they try to mask the mistakes. Also inspect the lower part of the leaves and the stem: for signs of pests.

When you bring the dracaena home, do not rush to introduce it to the other green inhabitants. Keep the plant in quarantine for at least 2 weeks. During this time, problems not noticed in the store may appear. In addition, the dracaena must adapt to the new environment.

And two weeks later, it is necessary to solve the question: to transplant dracaena or not. If there is no doubt in plant health, wait with a transplant until spring. There are some problems, for example, poor soil quality, replant your false palm at any time of the year. Usually store plants are kept in a peaty poor substrate. But for dracaena it is not so harmful, it, unlike cacti, is tolerant of peat. Therefore, when transplanting a recently purchased plant, do not clean the root system completely, but remove only what is left behind.

Landing and transplanting

• Pour a layer of expanded clay or other drainage into a new pot. On top of it is a soil mixture.
• Do not water Dracaena before transplanting for 3-4 days, so that the earth at the roots dries and does not crumble.
• Draw a knife or spatula along the edge of the flower pot, separating the earthen lump from the walls.

  Video: how can transplant dracaena

  Large dracaena transplant

  At home, over time, the dracaena grows into a three-meter tree. Such a giant is very difficult to transplant. It is much easier to update only the top layer (5-6 cm) of soil. Humus or other useful components are necessarily added to the new soil for nutrition.

  But sometimes transplants cannot be avoided. Then look for an assistant. Alone to deal with the transplantation of tall dracaena is very difficult.

  Stages of transplanting a large specimen:

• Before transplanting, do not water the dracaena for several days, so that an earthen lump is easier to remove from the pot.
• Prepare the soil mixture, drainage and pot.
• At the bottom of the tank, pour a drainage layer and part of the soil.
• Using a knife or spatula, carefully draw along the inner walls of the old pot to separate the grown roots.
• If the roots sprouted into the drainage holes, trim them.
• Get the dracaena with an earthen lump from the old pot (perhaps for this you will have to stand on a chair, holding the plant by the stem, and the assistant will pull the pot). Another option: carefully put the plant on its side and knock well on the pot, then carefully pull out the dracaena along with an earthen lump.
• Shake off the soil slightly, do not remove all. Remove too long roots from below, do not worry too much during surgery - dracaena will quickly restore what was lost.
• Transfer the plant to a new pot, set in the center and gradually fill the soil between the walls and the earthen lump with soil, slightly tamping it.
• Pour the soil around the circle, wait for it to settle, and add more soil. But do not try to fill the pot to the brim, otherwise it will then be inconvenient to water, change the topsoil.

For oversized dracaenas, so as not to transplant often, you can take the pot slightly for growth. And it is better to invest in ceramic. It is more stable than plastic.

Video: how to transplant a high dracaena

Transplant Care

After dracaena has moved to a new pot, it needs to create greenhouse conditions for a couple of weeks. This means that the plant is placed in a quiet and warm place without drafts, protected from direct sunlight. The best lighting is dim.

Water the dracaena very carefully.   After transplanting, the main danger is waterlogging of the soil. The roots have not yet penetrated into the new soil, moisture may not be absorbed and stagnate in the pot. This will lead to souring and rot. Pests are happy to settle in moist soil.

Transplant Issues

Most often, dracaena safely relocates from pot to pot and quickly adapts. But there are also problematic transplants. Then the plant becomes bored, the leaves wilt, the green hat of the foliage turns yellow. What is the cause of malaise? It can be assumed that during the transplant one or more errors were made:

1. Incorrect soil mixture. Dracaena does not tolerate heavy and too oily soil, soil with a high content of peat, which repels moisture, is not suitable for it. The solution to the problem is a new transplant into the correct land.
2. The new pot is too big. A plant weakened by a transplant cannot use all of the soil. Undeveloped soil will be constantly wet, then acidify, and the growth of putrefactive flora will begin. And there is not far from and to the rot of the roots. The way out is a transplant into a smaller pot with soil replacement.
3. Waterlogging after transplantation is the most common problem. Caring hosts water the plant, without waiting for the surface of the earth to dry out, the soil turns into a swamp, the flower becomes even sadder. To please, it is watered again. With such "care", a fatal outcome can occur. Do not water the plant until the top layer of soil dries 1–2 cm, remove water from the sump. If the situation is critical, try to dry the earthen room. Remove it from the pot and place it on paper (so that moisture is absorbed) in a warm and dry place. If you want to take care of dracaena, it is better to spray it, but also without undue enthusiasm.
4. Incorrect contents after transplantation. This often happens during the autumn-winter transplant. In a cool room, a weakened plant freezes. Put the dracaena closer to the warm battery, and so that it does not suffer from dry air, spray it, put nearby containers of water.

Yellowing and death of leaves

Yellow leaves and small leaf fall are normal in the first two weeks after transplanting. But if the fall of the leaves intensifies further, measures must be taken. Yellowing is a sign of overflow or airtight soil.   Reduce hydration. Change the soil if necessary.

  Dracaena yellow leaves - a serious reason to think about the grower

If the leaves of the dracaena have brown and dry tips, the air dryness is most likely to blame. Spray the plant and moisten the air. Another reason is overfeeding dracaena. After transplantation, it should not be fed for 2-3 months. Everything you need is already in the soil, if it is properly composed.

The tips of the leaves blacken in a too cold room or when touching a cold window pane.

Dracaena lowered the leaves

Video: Fix Transplant Errors

Cuttings

Beautiful palms are not easy to breed and only by seed. And the dracaena, so similar to a palm tree, is easy to grow from the cuttings. Roots and segments of the stem lend themselves to rooting.   Thus, you can not only get a new plant, but also rejuvenate the old.

We plant cuttings

1. In an adult and healthy dracaena, cut the stalk 3–5 cm with a sharp sterile knife: top of the stem with leaves.

A plant without a crown also does not disregard.   Sprinkle the wound with charcoal and dry. Spray the plant with growth stimulants. After 3-4 weeks, new kidneys begin to develop under the cut. Dracaena will receive a second life.

The amazing vitality of dracaena and its ability to reproduce formed the basis of the Aztec legend. According to her, the high priest, who did not want to give his daughter in marriage to a warrior, stuck a stick in the ground and said that if there were no leaves on it in five days, there would be no wedding. And he promised to execute the groom. The warrior began to water this stick. And on the fifth day, leaves grew on it - this was how dracaena was born. The Aztecs call it the tree of happiness.

Dracaena is propagated and segments of the stem up to 12 cm. Sections are dusted with charcoal, the cuttings are dug in moistened sand and a greenhouse is arranged. Just don't confuse the top end with the bottom. Such cuttings root in 2-3 weeks.

Some gardeners create original compositions by planting several young dracaena in one pot. So they look more magnificent. However, do not plant old and young dracaena together. An adult plant will not allow a teenager to develop.

Rooting cuttings of dracaena

Reviews of gardeners: beautiful, complaisant, unpretentious

Dracaena is not a sissy. My cat dropped it from a shelf onto a table: a pot to smithereens, a dracaena crown into a laptop ... A pile of land. fragments, broken leaves ... And her cat ate more than once. All dracaena nothing.

About the transplant. I usually put two pots in the bathtub - with a flower and a new one with a small layer of earth. Then I spill a pot of flower with water, then I pry the earth with a small spatula, pull out a flower with a lump of earth - and immediately into the next pot. I top up the earth, tamp a little, spill water as it should. I leave it for 40 minutes in the bathtub so that the water is excess glass. All.

Olesya

http://www.woman.ru/rest/medley8/thread/4193523/

When transplanting dracaena, a prerequisite is that there should be no empty spaces in the roots, that is, the earth should be carefully distributed between the roots and roots during transplantation, so as not to rot, add coal powder, a little Fitosporin. Watering immediately is not necessary, in the new land and so there is moisture, the first watering in a couple of days. Drainage is necessary - I have 1/4 pot of polystyrene foam. But I would remove all the store land, just soak the roots in a bucket of warm water for 5 minutes and rinse them. I personally popped a bunch of earthworms. After transplantation, Dracene was sprayed with Epin solution every 10 days (3 times). The pot must necessarily be commensurate with the root stain - otherwise everything will rot. I have a big pot, but half a pot of land, as it grows, I will add land. You can’t dig the trunk - only roots should be in the ground.

Oksana

http://eka-mama.ru/forum/part58/topic139865/?PAGEN_1\u003d2

Too big a pot is not good either. At least pouring is very easy. I poured my favorite dracaena from great love thoroughly after transplantation. In a small pot, she simply swallowed water. And after transplanting into a large pot, out of habit, I also watered it abundantly. But is there a lot of land? and it keeps moisture. As a result, she hung all the leaves. I had to urgently change the land. Now she has come back. But the view is not the same as before. So, if you transplant into a large pot, then you need to be watered very carefully. Moreover, other dracaenas transplanted into the same pots with the same root system feel normal. I usually watered them. I didn’t try so hard.
If the roots stick out of the pot, it is necessary to transplant, since in the pan they begin to rot. I checked this on personal experience.

http://homeflowers.ru/yabbse/index.php?showtopic\u003d5583

My parents have dracaena at least 10 years old. It was brought once long ago from Spain in the form of a piece of the trunk. Once every couple of years, when it outgrows all possible sizes, it is mercilessly chopped into separate pieces, similar to firewood. These firewoods are scattered in glasses of water and perfectly take root. The first time, too, was scary, but over so many years almost all the processes have taken root. Already half of the city, probably, our offspring are growing!

frekensnork

http://forum.ditenok.com/showthread.php?t\u003d34842

It is no coincidence that Dracaena became one of the most popular plants. Its original leaves give an exquisite style to any interior. And to look after her is simple and pleasant. And even such a traumatic procedure as a transplant, a patient dracaena transfers with dignity. The main thing is not to disappoint this plant, to do everything according to the rules.

Causes of dropped leaves in dracaena

Dracaena is considered a very unpretentious indoor plant. She does not need special care. But in order for the flower to please the eye as long as possible with its splendor and beauty, respond in time to any changes in its appearance. What are the drooped leaves of dracaena talking about?

Why is dracaena letting go of leaves

We will analyze what causes this problem and what needs to be done to solve it.

Why do dracaena drop leaves?

There may be several reasons:

2. improper watering;
3. not suitable in size pot;
4. nutrient deficiency;
5. lack of moisture;
6. drafts and broken temperature;
7. the plant was frozen.

The soil should be moist, not moist. The plant is watered with settled water at room temperature, when the earthen lump dries by about 2 cm. The irrigation regimen is 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in the pot, pour expanded clay or coarse-grained sand on its bottom with a layer of 3-4 cm, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from decay. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.

In the hot summer period, the flower needs to be sprayed. To wash off the dust and refresh it, we recommend once a month to put the plant in the shower, covering the ground with cellophane. After bathing the leaf growth point, blot with a napkin.

Close pot

The second reason that the leaves are constantly lowered down may be an improperly sized flower pot. If it is small, then plant nutrition is difficult. Roots need space. Check the tightness of their fit to the walls of the pot. If necessary, transplant a flower.

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

Lower leaflets may fall down due to insufficient nutrients. In a tight pot with a very developed root system, the earth quickly becomes poorer, the upper crown grows due to the lower foliage. During the period of active growth from April to September 1-2 times a month, feed the roots with pre-selected fertilizers. When watering, you can use liquid fertilizers according to the instructions.

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.

A flower loves moist air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the pot on a pallet with water so that the bottom of the pot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.

About the causes of drying of dracaena leaves and their methods





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Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. Evergreen palm up to 35 years old is considered to be young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

How to transplant Dracaena yourself and avoid mistakes

When do I need a transplant?

How to transplant dracaena at home? First of all, it is necessary to decide in which period it is best to take for a rejuvenating and stimulating flower growth procedure. The best time is the end of winter or the beginning of spring. As the plant wakes up after hibernation, and its vital processes become more active, dracaena transplantation at home will be the least stressful for it.



To clearly understand in what cases it is necessary to undertake the renewal of the soil mixture in a flower pot, select the following list:

8. transplanting dracaena into another pot is recommended if the rhizome has grown so much that it fills the container, and its processes can even be seen on the surface of the earthen coma. By updating the substrate and picking up a larger flower pot, you will create enough free space for your plant and stimulate the growth of shrubs;
9. transplantation of dracaena after purchase is another requirement for a grower. First, indoor flowers are sold in fragile plastic pots or flowerpots, not intended for long-term use. Secondly, you cannot be sure of the quality of the soil mixture and the absence of pests until you replace the substrate with your own hands;
10. it is recommended to plant dracaena in the event that you have excessively flooded the soil with water, and the dropped leaves of the plant and its decay on the face;
11. the soil for transplantation needs to be updated, since the substrate in which the indoor shrub grows has ceased to be nutritious. In addition, the earth becomes very clogged over time and begins to pass water and air poorly;
12. when a plant is infected with pests, not only its treatment with insecticidal drugs, but also transplantation of a home palm will help.



Knowing how to plant dracaena at home, and at what time is best done, you can achieve excellent results during the cultivation of shrubs.

What tools will be needed

To properly plant this homemade flower, you must clearly know what devices will help you in your work. It is not enough to decide what size pot the dracaena needs. Among the tools and materials that an experienced grower should have at hand, it is worth highlighting the following:

13. drainage;
14. high-quality soil mixture;
15. spray;
16. a container of water;
17. scissors or pruner.

Knowing how to properly transplant a dracaena, you stimulate your indoor shrub to even more active development.

Choosing the right pot

Perhaps you, as a beginner grower, can think about which pot to transplant the dracaena into. This moment must be given due attention. It is believed that a ceramic flower pot is best suited for dracaena. What is good about this material is its culvert properties, which is priceless for your indoor flower.



If you wish, you can buy a plastic flowerpot. However, in this case, be prepared for the fact that the irrigation regime will have to be observed with particular care. The water in the pot dries a little longer than in a container made of ceramics, so you can not overmoisten the substrate in any case. As for the size, it is better to buy a pot that is 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. It is impossible to plant the shrub in a too spacious container, since the plant will put all its strength into the growth of the rhizome, and not the stem part.

Which soil is suitable

How to plant dracaena and what kind of land this plant needs - it is advisable to find out these points in advance in order to prevent mistakes. Prepare the substrate for the indoor shrub yourself or buy the finished mixture for palm trees in a specialized store. If you decide to mix all the necessary components for the soil composition at home, you will need turf land, peat, leaf land, as well as compost.

Step-by-step instruction

Let's find out how to transplant the dracaena after the purchase in stages. Even if you are going to carry out this kind of procedure for the first time, there should not be any problems.



This process necessarily includes the following points:

18. approximately 3-4 days before the transplant, it is recommended to stop the substrate wetting;
19. at the bottom of the pot you purchased you need to pour pebbles, expanded clay or cracked brick - this material will perform the function of drainage;
20. carefully inspect the root system of the flower, if you need to trim old or damaged root processes;
21. place the plant in a new pot, cover the roots with the soil mixture, and form a mound not too large around the stem - this way, the water will drain down after irrigation.

To dracaena after transplantation did not lower the leaves, be sure to provide competent care for the flower, especially at first.

Further care and mistakes for beginners

In general, dracaena transplanted in spring or summer is treated under the same conditions as before the procedure. Do not leave the flower in the sun, as the plant may get burned. It is recommended to moisten the substrate 3-4 times a week. Do not forget to spray the leaves of the flower, as the plant is very fond of moisture. From time to time, fertilizers must be applied to the soil.



As for the mistakes, even if they are made, they rarely lead to the death of the bush. However, buying an oversized flower pot can contribute to plant wilt. The same can be said about the overmoistening of the soil substrate. Create favorable conditions for the shrub for growth, provide care for the dracaena based on the basic recommendations of specialists, and the plant will fully develop, and you can later transplant the flower without much effort.

Video "Dracaena transplant"

From this video you will learn how to properly transplant a dracaena.

Rules for self-transplanting dracaena

Most flower growers consider dracaena one of the most beautiful indoor plants. Dracaena is able to decorate any interior due to its unusual and spectacular appearance. Like any other plant, it will require a transplant. This process can be carried out immediately after purchase or after some time. A correct transplant will help to get rid of all sorts of problems associated with caring for dracaena.

Dracaena is one of the most beautiful ornamental deciduous plants. Most of them came from the tropics. About 150 varieties of this plant are counted, whose homeland is called tropical and subtropical Africa, as well as islands located in southeast Asia.

Regardless of variety, dracaena occasionally requires a transplant. into a larger pot. The need for this arises due to the fact that the root system of the plant does not tolerate crowding. It is recommended to transplant young dracaena annually with the advent of spring. For larger and adult dracaena, transplantation is needed as it grows. If there is no need to transplant the plant yet, in spring it is necessary to change the topmost layer of soil with heavier soil.

It is generally accepted that in emergency situations, dracaena can be transplanted even in autumn, despite the fact that the plant is preparing for winter sleep. Emergencies mean the threat of wilting or drying out due to an overly tight pot and the purchase of a young, new plant. After acquiring dracaena, a transplant must be performed in a few weeks, regardless of the time of year. This is explained by the fact that in the store the plant is placed in small pots, with improper soil, abundantly saturated with fertilizers designed to accelerate growth. All this can lead to the death of dracaena.

Of course, the dracaena transplant carried out in the autumn, is very stressful   for the plant. A natural reaction to it will be falling leaves or yellowing. It must be remembered that any indoor flower, including dracaena, is categorically not recommended to be disturbed in the fall. It is at this time that preparation for wintering occurs, and excess stress will cause depletion of the plant.

Before proceeding with the transplant, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the features characteristic of dracaena. Observing the simple rules, you can easily save yourself from the many problems associated with plant transplantation. The quality of the earth has a direct impact on the condition of the flower, its growth, proper development. In this regard, it is necessary with all responsibility to approach the choice of soil in which dracaena will be located.

The substrate, which has a direct impact on the further development, growth and health status of the plant, plays one of the most important roles in dracaena transplantation. Overall this the flower is picky enough   and is able to easily accept any soil. However, the most suitable option for the plant is peat land with an acidity level of 6.0-6.5.

If you have to choose between a ready-made purchased substrate and a self-prepared mixture, it would be better to completely rely on your own capabilities and feelings. The only exception to the rule is the use of sheet soil, which was previously in the garden or in the garden. This type of soil should not be used when transplanting, since it contains a fairly large amount of mineral salts and fertilizers.

The most suitable option is a mixture prepared from leaf, compost, peat and turf lands in the ratio 1: 1: 0.5: 2. In order to prevent soil caking, it is also recommended to add about a quarter of a pot of river sand. If it was decided to purchase a finished substrate, you need to pay special attention to the presence in it of the necessary nutrients and trace elements.

How to choose a flower pot

To date, the attention of gardeners presented huge assortment of flowerpots, among which it is difficult to make the right choice. Almost every person, first of all, pays attention to the pots having the most attractive external characteristics. However, such containers may in fact be unsuitable for use. In this regard, when choosing a new flower pot for dracaena, you must comply following recommendations:

22. In order for the plant to please the eye for a long time, a new flowerpot should be chosen, starting from the size of the root system. For example, with a dracaena height of about 40 cm, the pot should be at least 15 cm in diameter.
23. The diameter of each subsequent flowerpot should be in diameter 2 or 3 cm more than the previous. The grave mistake of some novice flower lovers is to buy a pot too large, taken with a margin. In such a container, the water will stagnate, having a detrimental effect on the health status of the plant.
24. Most gardeners are convinced that a ceramic flowerpot is best suited for dracaena. They justify this opinion with the probability of a better supply of the root system with oxygen, obtained due to the porous structure of the container. At the same time, it is believed that the substrate in this case dries out more evenly. In fact, as practice shows, in ordinary plastic pots, dracaena grows and develops no worse.
25. If the dracaena is old enough, it is better to choose stable flowerpot, with glassy outlines.
26. One of the prerequisites for choosing a pot is the presence of holes in the bottom, due to the fact that for dracaena stagnation of water in the soil coma can be fatal.

The dracaena transplant process

From how correctly and in a timely manner a plant transplant will be made, its further life entirely depends. It is highly recommended not to do this in the autumn. With the advent of autumn, the flower prepares for winter holidays and breaking this process can harm the dracaena.

For a transplant you will need:

27. A new flowerpot with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm larger than the previous one.
28. Soil purchased in the store or prepared independently.
29. Expanded clay or other drainage.
30. A sharp knife or pruner.
31. A vessel of water heated to room temperature.
32. Sprayer for water.

In a new pot, pre-treated with hot water, it is necessary to pour prepared drainage layer. The height of this layer is determined by the presence of perforation in the bottom of the tank. If there are no holes, then the drainage thickness needs to be increased, and if there is, then for a medium-sized pot, the height should be 2-3 cm. After completion, you need to very carefully remove the dracaena from the previous flowerpot, carefully freeing the root system from the old soil. If there are rotting sites on the roots, they must be removed and sprayed onto the dracaena root system using a spray gun.

Dracaena should be placed in a new flowerpot and carefully fill in the remaining space among the roots. Do not allow appearance in the root system air sacs. After graduation, for the speedy adaptation of the flower to new soil, you should pour it with a solution of fertilizers. In the future, dracaena should be moderately watered. At first, it is recommended to use zircon. Fertilizers will need to be applied twice a month. With the correct transplant, this dose should be enough.

When transplanting dracaena, special attention should be paid to the zone of transition of the plant trunk to the root neck. This place can not be excessively deepened into the ground, and the neck should be slightly sprinkled with earth. The soil is better to use light or medium density. The roots of dracaena really like the air. Most gardeners believe that the plant should be transplanted into store peat soil, however, it is too heavy. Best of all, a flower grows in a mixture of peat soil with coco soil or deciduous. In this case, the roots receive a sufficient amount of air and moisture.

After planting, the plant needs put in a quiet placeso that no one hurts him. It is important that it receives enough dim light. The most successful time for transplantation are:

33. late fall. An overgrown color transplant as needed.
34. early spring. Good time to transplant a young plant.

The flowerpot should be slightly larger than its predecessor, since in a very large pot the flower may die.

Plant transplant after purchase

Should dracaena be transplanted immediately after its acquisition? There is no definite answer to this question. A younger plant is better leave in the same pot   before spring. In case of doubt about the need for a transplant, it is recommended to choose a transshipment. In this case, dracaena with the earth is transferred to a larger pot and supplemented with new soil. After this, the plant must be fertilized with zircon.

If the purchased plant is planted in transportation soil, then it must be transplanted into new soil, removing completely the old one.

Feeding dracaena after transplantation

After all procedures related to transplant, dracaena adapts for several weeks. At this time, the root system is formed. In order for the process to go as quickly as possible, the plant needs to be watered with a liquid that stimulates root growth, but not more than twice a month. In general, the plant should be fed from March to November, with a frequency of once every few weeks. In winter, top dressing should be done once a month, and the amount of active substance must be reduced by half. A universal fertilizer used for dracaena and palm trees is best suited.

Watering dracaena

The process of watering dracaena is no different from the usual. The only caveat is the need for the first time add zircon to the irrigation fluid.

So, dracaena transplantation is a fairly simple action that even a novice flower lover can handle.

Typical diseases of dracaena and their effective treatment with an explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.

Why do dracaena drop leaves? Causes   may be the following: the plant goes through a period of acclimatization after purchase, a transplant was carried out with soil replacement, which violated the integrity of the root system, and the irrigation mode was incorrect.

Only a purchased plant must undergo a period of acclimatization under the new conditions. Dracaena is no exception. The level of illumination in the new room, humidity and air temperature - all this can affect the well-being of the flower. No need to worry if dracaena is only purchased and it has lowered leaves. For prevention, you need to inspect the plant carefully. If there are no pests on it, the root system is in order, the trunk does not rot - there is no need to take drastic measures. Experts recommend not replanting the flower within 1 month after purchase. After this period, transplant by transshipment and strictly follow the rules for caring for dracaena. As practice shows, all dracaena lower the leaves after the purchase. This is a normal occurrence. In a healthy flower, only the crown, that is, young leaves, will look up.

Dracaena dropped leaves immediately after transplantation. This indicates a violation of the root system of the flower, namely, very thin roots that form a spider web at the bottom of the pot. They are involved in plant nutrition and provide the plant with water. It is not recommended to transplant dracaena in a complete replacement of the soil. She is more likely to transship in a larger pot. Thus, the root system will not be injured.

However, if the transplant has already been carried out and the dracaena has lowered the leaves, while its lower leaves may turn yellow intensively, the following steps must be performed: spray the flower with a cyclone (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water) and place it under the greenhouse or a spacious cap. Leaves should not touch the walls of the greenhouse. At the same time, watering is significantly reduced. Before the next watering, the ground in the pot should completely dry (you can 1 time in 2-3 weeks). On the contrary, it is necessary to spray the flower very often with ordinary water in order to maintain high humidity under the greenhouse. The number of sprayings depends on the room temperature. The colder the less often. Cycron can only be used once a week. At the first watering, the cyclone must be added to the water for irrigation. This stimulates the growth of the root system. After a transplant with a violation of the root system, dracaena lacks moisture. At the same time, intensive watering will lead to decay of the root system. The plant will replenish the lack of moisture through the crown. That is why in a greenhouse they maintain high humidity.

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Reason: Wrong watering mode. In the first case, the amount of moisture is simply not enough for the plant to maintain normal leaf turgor. In the second - there is too much moisture, which led to the decay of the root system. Through damaged roots, the plant also does not receive enough moisture. Increasing the number of irrigations will not solve the problem.

If dracaena lowered leaves due to lack of moisture, what should I do?   It is necessary to place the flower under the greenhouse and conduct regular spraying. It is impossible to sharply increase the amount of watering, as this will harm the roots. Keep the plant under the greenhouse for 3-5 days. Watering the flower should be plentiful, but only after the earth coma is completely dry. Water from the pan must be removed.

Dracaena gets an excess of moisture. As a result, the root system does not cope with an excess of fluid and begins to rot. Damaged roots no longer absorb moisture from the ground, and therefore dracaena lowers the leaves. What to do? First of all, normalize watering. Next, you need to carefully, without violating the integrity of the root system, remove the dracaena from the pot by the trunk. Inspect the roots. If the root system is light yellow or white, but not brown, it is healthy. The plant is returned back to the pot and reduce watering. Watering should be plentiful, but only after the soil has completely dried in a pot.

If the dracaena lowered the leaves and its roots are soaked, flabby and have an unhealthy shade, this indicates rotting. Damaged roots are removed. The plant is transplanted into a new, special, slightly moist soil. Dracaena is placed under a greenhouse. Watering is minimized, and spraying, on the contrary, is speeded up. Can be added to spray water for cyclone. The plant is removed from the greenhouse when it begins to drive out new leaves.

Why do dracaena dry tips of leaves?   Reasons: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime is violated, heavy soil.

Dracaena is a photophilous flower, and therefore its tips of the leaves very often turn yellow due to a lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown indoors, the ends of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination with an energy-saving lamp up to 12 hours. The flower must be placed at the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows do not fit the flower.

You noticed that the dracaena looks bad, the tips of its leaves are drying. What to do in such cases? It is necessary to pay attention to the watering mode. Perhaps the plant is waterlogged. As a result, its root system rots, leaves do not get enough moisture through diseased roots, and therefore their tips dry. Dracaena is watered only after the soil has completely dried in a pot. Watering in this case is carried out abundant, so that the water comes out into the pan through the drainage holes. Water is immediately removed from the pan. Otherwise, the bottom of the pot will not dry out, the roots will rot. You can not put a pot of dracaena on wet expanded clay. To check the condition of the root system, the plant is carefully removed from the pot. Healthy roots will be light. Regular spraying will help the flower. it is possible to add cyclone or epin to water for spraying once a week.

Dracaena dry the tips of the leaves, if the room is low humidity. To do this, frequent spraying of the flower is carried out, a humidifier is placed next to it. During the heating season, do not place the plant next to heating appliances.

Dracaena does not grow, new leaves grow deformed, stems are thinned and extended. Reason: the plant lacks sunlight. Perhaps the flower is in the back of the room where the light does not penetrate, or the daylight hours are shortened due to the onset of autumn-winter. Experts recommend placing dracaena near windows on the south or southeast side of the house, but with mandatory shading from midday heat. To diffuse direct sunlight on the window, just hang a transparent curtain. In autumn and winter, it is recommended to illuminate the dracaena with an artificial light lamp (fluorescent or special phytolamp). In total, the duration of daylight hours for the successful development of leaflets should be 12-14 hours.

With the onset of autumn-winter (from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dracaena dormancy period, upon the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, reduce the temperature of the plant (up to +17 ... + 18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and feeding are not carried out. During the resting period, the dracaena slows its growth, and therefore, in conditions of insufficient illumination, it does not drive out new, deformed leaves, its branches do not thin out.