Feeding peppers after planting in a greenhouse. Pepper dressing after planting in the greenhouse with folk remedies. How to fertilize

It is almost impossible to grow a good crop of peppers without the help of fertilizing. This vegetable crop is considered capricious and reacts sharply to the smallest lack of trace elements in the soil, so plants require additional nutrition.

Of the additives, various mineral and organic fertilizers are used, as well as folk remedies. To begin to feed seedlings of peppers and subsequently collect a rich harvest, you need to study the composition of the fertilizer and its properties.

Each top dressing has specific features and is used only in a certain time interval. It is determined depending on the phase of development of the pepper: the growth of green mass, the development of shoots, flowering or fruiting. For example, nitrogen is used at the initial stage of cultivation, potassium and phosphorus - during the formation of ovaries and fruits. There are fertilizers that have a universal effect and are used regardless of growth (complex additives, folk remedies).

Mineral fertilizers

Minerals are one of the most important components that affect the quality of the fruit, as well as their quantity. Mineral components include:

Nitrogen

Peppers need it for a set of green mass, the formation of ovaries, provides the growth of stems.

Phosphorus

The element contributes to the development of the root system, is responsible for the formation of fruits and their ripening period.

Potassium

This compound is considered a fundamental component for the appearance of pepper. Potassium affects the color intensity, the correct shape and size of the vegetable.

Magnesium

The substance is an additional source of nutrition for the root system, and also helps maintain the mineral balance in the earth.

Top dressing in spring after transplantation

When the peppers are already transplanted into the ground, after 2 weeks they begin to fertilize the earth. The first to make nitrogen fertilizers. These include urea and ammonium nitrate.

Urea dressing

10 grams of urea are diluted in 10 liters, the solution is poured into a watering can and the pepper is watered under the root. The consumption rate per plant is 0.5 liters.

Urea can irrigate the leaves and stem of peppers. The plant perceives foliar feeding well. Fertilizer can be used in dry form, it is enough to distribute it on moistened soil with a thin layer near the stem and in the aisles. There are 7-8 grams of powder per square meter of soil.

Ammonium nitrate

Another, no less effective, fertilizer for the crop is ammonium nitrate. In chemical properties, nitrate is more aggressive than urea. In dry form, it is rarely used, often in a diluted state and for root dressing. A tablespoon of the substance is bred on a bucket of water and peppers are watered 2-3 weeks after planting in the greenhouse. The treatment is repeated after 10-14 days.

Attention!

Top dressing is carried out only in the morning or in the evening. Watering is not carried out during the day, as there is a chance of getting a burn.

During flowering and ovary formation

When the peppers are already overgrown with green foliage, and the stems become powerful, the second phase of cultivation begins. In importance, it is more important than the first, since it is during this period that the future crop is laid. Beginning in the second half of June, top dressing is carried out using phosphorus and potassium supplements. Prepare a nutrient solution: mix in a bucket of water for a tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Water the resulting solution of the plant 1 time in 10-14 days 2 times: the first time before flowering, the second time during the formation of the ovaries.

Potassium humate is also great for this period of active growth of peppers, as it increases soil fertility. 3 grams of humate is dissolved in 10 liters of water and irrigated with shoots. Humate is not recommended to be combined with phosphate fertilizers. Processing is carried out 3 times per season: before the onset of flowering, during the formation of ovaries and during fruiting.

During fruiting

During fruiting, it is recommended to use potassium top dressing in combination with nitrogen fertilizers to quickly ripen the fruit. Potassium nitrate is a substance that contains both potassium and nitrogen. It is bred in the amount of 15 grams per 10 liters and adult plants are watered under a bush. Potassium nitrate is suitable for irrigating foliage, the effect is the same as with root feeding.

Ammonium sulfate will make up for the lack of nitrogen in the soil, and sulfur will extend the fruiting period and improve the taste of the fruit. The substance can be added to mulch (40 grams per square meter of land). Top dressing is completely safe for peppers, all components are quickly distributed in the soil, without the formation of toxins and by-products.

Organic matter

A supplement with a natural organic composition is of particular value for seedlings of peppers. To obtain a high quality crop, it is enough to use organic fertilizing 3-4 times during the whole season. Organic fertilizers, like mineral fertilizers, are applied at a certain time, since their composition varies.

Mullein

A universal product used as a feed for most nightshade crops, including peppers. Fertilizer consists of a large number of minerals (nitrogen, potassium, calcium, phosphorus). Once in the ground, it increases the level of humus, which determines the fertility of the earth. The optimal time for feeding cow dung comes at the end of May. During this period, peppers need a powerful growth stimulator and strengthen immune capabilities. For 5 parts of water, 1 part of mullein is taken, the mixture is insisted for 5-6 days. During fermentation, gas is released and the color of the fertilizer changes from brown to light yellow. Dilute the solution another 5 times and start watering. Mullein is watered under the root, but foliar top dressing with a similar solution is also possible. Mullein treatment is repeated 2 weeks after the first feeding.

Important!

To neutralize the unpleasant smell of mullein, a teaspoon of copper sulfate is added to a freshly prepared solution.

Ash

Since ash contains a large amount of minerals, it is often used as fertilizer. They begin to feed with fertilizer from the pepper transplant itself. A glass of ash is bred in a bucket of water and the plants are watered several days after transplantation. Before flowering, ash can be applied to the leaves and stem. It protects peppers from the attack of pests and insects, and also prevents the occurrence of fungal diseases. Such fertilizer can be added to the mulch and sprinkled with aisle from time to time.

Iodine

The substance has antibacterial properties, and also affects the taste of the pulp and improves the quality of the fruit. Iodine is used at the beginning of growing peppers. 3-4 drops of iodine solution are added to a liter of water and applied to shoots and leaves. Iodine leads to the death of pathogenic microflora, prevents the attack of insects. The substance can be used up to 4 times throughout the season, with an interval of 2 weeks.

Eggshell

The source of calcium for peppers can serve as crushed shells. The shell from boiled eggs is dried and crushed with a crush. The crushed powder is poured into the aisles, regardless of the time of growing seedlings. You can prepare a liquid fertilizer for irrigation: mix the shell with water in a ratio of 1: 3. Peppers are watered during flowering and fruiting under the root. Calcium is easily washed out of the soil with each watering, so the need for an element arises constantly. The shell can be added to the mulch, as well as before planting peppers.

Yeast

Once in the ground, the yeast begins to process organic components, resulting in the release of nitrogen and potassium. Yeast top dressing will be especially relevant immediately after transplanting peppers to a permanent place. A bag of dry yeast and a tablespoon of sugar are taken for 10 liters of warm water. All ingredients are mixed and left to infuse for 2-3 hours in a warm place. After time, the resulting mixture is diluted 5 times and watered under the root. To enhance the growth of peppers and the rapid formation of ovaries, the supplement is used 3 times: 1 time after planting, 2 and 3 times after flowering and before fruiting.

Attention!

Yeast is a good complementary product when feeding, so it is used in alternation with mineral or complex fertilizers.

Complex feeding

The complex is a complex mixture, which includes mineral substances in a certain proportion. They have a wide spectrum of action and instantly nourish the soil, replenishing its mineral balance. The complexes are easy to use, soluble in the aquatic environment and are used throughout the time of growing seedlings: from planting to fruiting.

Agricola

The additive is popular with most gardeners. It has no poisons; it is safe for plants and fruits. Its action is aimed at accelerating fruiting, increasing productivity. For the entire season, 3-4 feeding is carried out with an interval of 2 weeks. 25 grams of the substance is stirred in 10 liters of water and the seedlings are watered, starting from 3 weeks after transplanting into the greenhouse.

Effecton-o

The fertilizer contains phosphorus and potassium in the composition, is more suitable for use in the second phase of cultivation - during flowering and the formation of ovaries. The main purpose of the product is foliar top dressing. The solution is prepared by mixing 2 tablespoons of granular mixture and 10 liters of water. Effekton is used no more than 3 times throughout the season.

Baikal

Fertilizer is mainly used at the beginning of seedling cultivation, as it intensively nourishes the root system and provides early flowering. Baikal is diluted in the aquatic environment in a ratio of 1: 1000. Watering is carried out a couple of weeks after planting peppers in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Repeat the treatment after 14 days.

The main rule in the successful cultivation of peppers is the proper use of fertilizer. For it to really work, it is bred in the right proportion and used for irrigation or irrigation in a given time interval. If the seedlings themselves are rapidly developing and growing well, no need to apply top dressing. Excess minerals in the soil lead to wilting and death of the crop.

Pepper is a heat-loving plant that requires care. Its beginning comes from the warm regions of America. But what if the harsh climate prevails? There is a way out in this case too. In the northern regions of the country, it has become a habit to grow many vegetables in greenhouses. Feeding and growing peppers in a greenhouse is easy, but you need to approach this process with all seriousness and responsibility. Fertilizer is selected based on age, variety, condition, weather and more.

Pepper refers to those plants that like to receive mineral fertilizers. Most they like nitrogen and potassium but not chlorine. This is worth watching. Fertilizer is chosen with a low content of chlorine or its complete absence. It also requires fluoride in the ground. If the soil has a deficiency of this component, then it is necessary to introduce it artificially throughout the growth and development. Mandatory components for peppers after planting:

1. Nitrogen. It stimulates the plant to grow and develop both the fruit and the plant itself.
2. Phosphorus. Vitally necessary at the very beginning. Fertilizer with phosphorus affects the formation of the future crop, the formation of fruits.
3. Potassium. Participates in the formation and setting of fruits.
4. Calcium. Necessary for both man and plant. First of all, it strengthens the plant, helping it to develop and bear fruit properly. Required throughout the growth period.

It should be understood that feeding pepper in greenhouses will differ slightly from that carried out in the open. The plant needs more care and diligence. In order for the pepper to grow fruitfully and delight the crop throughout the entire period, mineral and organic fertilizers are applied. Mineral fertilizer is responsible for plant growth, and organics stimulate fruit development and productivity.

How to feed pepper after planting in a greenhouse?

Pepper nutrition in the greenhouse should not take place immediately, but after a few weeks. At this point, the plant will grow stronger and will be ready for the absorption of fertilizers. You can feed after planting with a solution:

• Ammonium nitrate - 40 grams.
• Superphosphate - 40 grams.
• Potassium sulfate - 20 grams.
• The water is warm - 10 liters.

Stir all ingredients thoroughly. Water must be warm, approximately 25 degrees. But before applying fertilizer, you should also water each bush with warm water. When fertilizer is applied, the ground is loosened. Opponents of chemistry have the option to use natural fertilizer in the form of mullein or bird droppings. Mullein is bred in a ratio of 1:10 and insisted for a week, and litter 1: 5 for about 5 days.

You can also feed with herbal solutions. To do this, you need to collect the entire weed on the site, grind and pour into some container. In general, about 6 kg of grass should be obtained, but without seeds and roots. The crushed grass is poured with 10 liters of Koryak, a bucket of ash, water and mix thoroughly. The resulting solution should be infused for about a week and you can use it. Pepper feeding in the greenhouse occurs according to the same scheme as in open ground. For each bush, spend 1 liter of solution, without touching the bushes.

The next feeding will take place at the time of fruit set. Approximately 2 weeks after the first. For the second top dressing, fertilizer is used from organic substances. To choose the right fertilizer, you need to examine the plant itself. The lack of nitrogen in the earth affects the appearance of the plant. If the stems and shoots are thin and fragile, and the foliage has a dark green color, then you should prepare a solution that will saturate them with the missing components. Prepare a solution:

• Sodium Sulfate - 1 tsp
• Superphosphate - 1 tbsp.
• Water - 10 liters.

All ingredients must be mixed in warm water and pour peppers. Throughout the growing season, plants require spraying and foliar top dressing. Peppers can be fed with diluted ash, in which there are all the necessary substances.

Fertilizer for peppers in a greenhouse: lack of minerals

Shortage or oversupply of mineral fertilizers adversely affects the condition of the plant. Even if top dressing is made on time, pepper is susceptible to diseases. There are external signs by which it becomes clear what to focus on and how to treat. Diseases in appearance:

At the seedling stage, peppers need to be fed about 2 times. The first time they do it in the initial stage of development, when a couple of leaves appeared. And the last subcortex is done when planting in the greenhouse is planned. During this period, it is advisable to feed exclusively with mineral fertilizers.

Topping pepper in a greenhouse: planting and care

Planting seedlings is done in accordance with the recommendations for a particular variety, but mainly most peppers don't like intimacy. Peppers of large-fruited varieties, weighing about 500 grams, are recommended to be planted at a distance of 70 cm from each other. Such planting will facilitate future care of the fruits and the plant itself.

When a plant is planted in a greenhouse, then holes are prepared in advance. It is worth remembering that pepper does not need deep holes. This may adversely affect development. Usually planted at the same depth that they had in the tank. The root system in most cases does not exceed the place of cotyledon leaves.

It is also worth noting that peppers are heat-loving plants, therefore, before planting, the soil must warm up. If planted in a cool land, they will stop in development, and the fruiting period will come soon. The deeper the hole is made, the greater the likelihood of root cooling. When planting, the main role is played by temperature, not in the greenhouse itself, but in the soil. So that the seedlings do not die, it is better to wait until the earth is completely warmed up.

During the preparation of the holes, an important condition is fertilizer. It is not necessary to lay the mineral components in the hole itself, it is better to distribute them throughout the garden and dig. So the fertilizer mixes with the ground and does not burn the roots. It should be taken into account that the optimal temperature inside the greenhouse should be about 25 degrees. Drafts are undesirable, pepper likes high humidity. Water only with warm water. In general, over the entire period of growth until fruiting should be avoided hypothermia of this plant.

Conclusion

So that pepper grows well in the greenhouse and delights the fruits, need to feed him on time, and also properly looked after. Greenhouse conditions can adversely affect seedlings, especially in the initial period. Spring weather is not stable: it is hot in the afternoon and too cold at night. Such temperature changes affect the plant badly. So that they do not stop in development, you need to help them relieve stress. Well in this case, covering material helps. It maintains a stable temperature, and the earth does not have time to cool overnight.

Pepper, like most solanaceous, refers to those vegetables that can not tolerate low temperatures. To grow a decent crop is a real problem for cold climatic zones. Experienced gardeners and gardeners amateurs know that for growing pepper  Must have greenhouse  (or greenhouse) and well-fertilized soil. The soil should be saturated with the necessary substances and mineral additives for optimal growth and development of pepper seedlings. It is necessary to monitor the amount of phosphorus and nitrogen in the earth, because these substances are fundamental for the development of the root system and the formation of fruits. Nitrogen tends to be washed out due to frequent watering, so it is applied more often. There are many remedies and recipes, how to feed pepper in a greenhouse. They will be discussed in this article.

Pepper feeding mode

Follow the feeding regimen - a prerequisite for growing peppers.

Peppers are fed for the first time 1 month after planting, then regularly every 10 days.

For the first feeding, a mixture of cow droppings and water in a ratio of 1 to 8 is well suited. It is possible to add weakly concentrated mineral fertilizers to the mullein, in which case the proportion changes and amounts to 1 to 6.

Once every 4 weeks, plants are sprayed with 0.12% calcium nitrate or potassium phosphate 0.1%. Spraying is carried out during the ventilation of the greenhouse to avoid thermal burns of the leaves.

The recipe for feeding peppers in greenhouses

The recipe of our grandmothers - watering slurry - is also effective and is able to create competition with industrial fertilizers. The recipe is simple:

• We breed 4 medium cow cakes with warm water 24-27 degrees in a 12 liter bucket (you can use buckets from under the putty). The ratio of mullein to water should be 1:10. Close the lid and insist a day in the heat. Two buckets of the obtained manure concentrate are added when watering on a five-liter bucket. Double superphosphate (50 g per 10 l of the finished solution) can also be added here. Pour the pepper solution under the root. Consumption: 1 liter of solution per 1 plant.

When the first flowers appear and before the formation of ovaries in the greenhouses, we continue to feed the plants.

Feeding Methods

Store fertilizers are applied in accordance with the instructions on the packaging, improvised fertilizers - in accordance with generally accepted doses. It is possible to adjust the amount of fertilizer according to the individual conditions of the plants in the greenhouse.

Fertilizers useful for peppers include:

Ammofoska or nitroammophosphate;
   ammonium nitrate;
   potassium chloride.

From the available fertilizers for peppers, there are:

Mullein;
   mutton manure;
   chicken droppings;
   organic fertilizers - nettle, ash, sawdust.

If cow dung is familiar to almost every gardener and it can be used by any novice agronomist, then chicken and mutton dung should be introduced very carefully.

Dry chicken droppings are introduced only in the row-spacing to prevent “burning” of the plant roots.

On acidic soils, in addition to top dressing, ash and sawdust are added.

Passive top dressing of peppers

In addition to active top dressing of peppers, you can use the passive method of enriching the soil with nitrogen. Thanks to the root system of legumes, the nitrogen content in the soil increases by 10-15%. To do this, we plant peas or beans on resting soils before planting peppers. Creeping varieties can also be used; they can be planted during the flowering period of peppers between planting holes.

Despite the many nuances, if feed peppers in a greenhouse  on time, do not forget about plentiful watering and protect seedlings from drafts, an excellent harvest is guaranteed!

Fruits on the plant appear 2 weeks earlier than in open ground. Moreover, this result can be achieved even when using an unheated design. In addition, tomatoes in a greenhouse are less susceptible to such a common disease as late blight.

Therefore, the total yield is higher quality and larger. In this case, it is necessary to solve problems with drip irrigation in advance.

TOMATOES in a greenhouse: planting, pinching, garter, top dressing

However, it is not difficult to organize it.Following competent recommendations and careful care, full trust in a professional and courage in experiments - all this will lead to ripe fruits. Growing tomatoes in your greenhouse or in the open field is not a big deal if you know the basic requirements for growing this vegetable.

Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse is somewhat different from growing them in open ground. You need to start with the fact that the tomatoes in the greenhouse are in a confined space, not receiving anything from the outside except sunlight. They need to be watered and aired in a timely manner.

And proper feeding of tomatoes in the greenhouse will be the key to a good and plentiful harvest. It is best to plant tomatoes in the greenhouse when the seedlings are strong enough, reach a height of 20-30 centimeters, and 10-12 pieces will appear on each plant leaf. By timing, tomato seedlings are planted in the greenhouse in the first decade of May.

Fertilizer beds

For each bed of loamy or clay soil, it is necessary to add 1 bucket of peat, sawdust or humus for each square. meter. If peat is already in the beds, they are placed on a bucket of humus, sod land, sawdust or small shavings.

Half a bucket of coarse sand is also laid. On top of all this add a spoonful of potassium sulfate and 2 tablespoons of superphosphate. Then everything is well dug up.

Vegetative top dressing

The soil for tomatoes must be properly prepared by introducing the necessary fertilizers into it. In terms of 1 square meter of land should be added: 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate, as well as half a bucket of coarse sand.

Dig the soil well and prepare the holes. The next fertilizing of tomatoes in the greenhouse is done after 20 days. It is carried out with organic or mineral fertilizers.

Fertilizers are best used liquid, watering plants at the rate of 1 liter of water per plant. The second feeding of tomatoes grown in the greenhouse is carried out 10 days after the first feeding. It is carried out with complex fertilizers, such as "Ideal" or "Fertility." After 12 days, you can carry out another fertilizer application.

This time, you can use special tools that improve the fruit ovary, and you can use this fertilizer composition: 2 tablespoons of wood ash and 1 tablespoon of superphosphate per 10 liters of water. Each plant is poured with such a solution at the rate of 2 liters under the root. When the tomatoes enter the phase of active fruiting, they are fed sodium humate and nitrophos.

Pollination of tomato flowers

The fruits appear due to the fact that the bees pollinate them. But in the closed system of the greenhouse there are no bees. Therefore, it is necessary to solve this problem.

In sunny warm weather, flower brushes must be shaken slightly. The main thing is to do it carefully. For germination of pollen on the pistil, after pollination, it is necessary to sprinkle water on the flowers with a fine spray and water the soil.

After a couple of hours you can reduce the humidity by opening the door and the window in the greenhouse. Pay more attention to airing. It is of great importance in the flowering phase of tomatoes. It is important to prevent condensation from appearing on the film.

Due to waterlogging of the soil, the content of dry matter and sugar in the fruit is reduced. Because of this, they become acidic and watery, such as on the market. Thanks to the proper watering of tomatoes in a greenhouse, the crop will not just be high. You will also receive quality fruits. Use the following scheme for watering tomatoes in a greenhouse:

• Before the flowering of plants begins, water the seedlings of 4-5 liters of water per square meter. meter every 5-7 days. Prior to fruiting during flowering, more abundant watering is needed. It will take 10-15 liters of water per square meter. meter.

In this case, you should consider that water should have a temperature in the range from +20 to +22 degrees. This is a very important point. You can water only in the morning hours.

At other times, watering is harmful. So you can prevent the appearance of harmful excess moisture. Thus, for the successful cultivation of tomatoes in greenhouse conditions, irrigation and competent dressing of plants is of great importance.

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More articles about the cottage and garden

Pepper, like tomatoes, eggplant, belongs to the nightshade family. All these vegetable crops respond very well to mineral fertilizers applied to the soil, especially potassium and nitrogen, only pepper needs them slightly higher than tomatoes.

Chloride does not tolerate pepper well, therefore, fertilizers should use fertilizers with a minimum chlorine content, and even better, without it at all. The composition of the mineral fertilizers that are applied to the soil depends on both the variety of planted seedlings and its age, weather conditions and the size and quantity of the formed ovaries. It should be understood for what purpose certain mineral fertilizers are applied. So for normal growth and development, from the time the first sprouts appeared to the beginning of fruit formation, phosphorus fertilizers are needed for pepper.

Peppers need nitrogen and calcium throughout their growth, development, and fruiting periods. During the period when the plants actively form ovaries, in order for them to develop normally, it is necessary to feed the plants with potash fertilizers. So, if the weather is cloudy for a rather long time, the weather is not very sunny, then you need to increase the amount of potash fertilizers by about 20%. In the case of constant sunny weather, reduce the amount of potash fertilizers also by 20%.

Spring preparation of the earth in the greenhouse

Before embarking on the planting of pepper seedlings in beds, they must be specially prepared and fertilized. The following fertilizers must be introduced into the greenhouse soil, based on 1m2:

• 1 hour a spoonful of potassium sulfate; 1 glass of wood ash ;? buckets of humus or compost (last year).

The mineral fertilizers listed above can be replaced with a complex mineral fertilizer, preferably specialized, making about 1-2 tbsp. tablespoons per m2. Before applying, carefully read the composition indicated on the package.

If the fertilizer contains a large amount of chlorine, then it is better not to use it, since pepper very poorly tolerates this substance. (See. Fertilizing a tomato in a greenhouse) After fertilizers have been applied, it is necessary to loosen or shallow dig the ridge, then shed it with warm water and cover with a clean transparent film. In this state, the prepared ridge is left for several days, up to the time of planting.

Basic rules for feeding peppers

1. Peppers are fed every two weeks. Dissolve organic and mineral substances in warm, standing water. Its temperature should be close to the soil temperature in the greenhouse (approximately + 250C). Before fertilizing, each plant should be poured with warm water, and only then fertilizer should be applied. After fertilizing, the soil around each plant should be lightly loosened, if it is not mulched. It is necessary to alternate fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers. Any fertilizing only on wet soil. Therefore, a couple of days before dressing, plants must be properly shed.

Important: do not give the pepper an excess of nitrogenous fertilizers, as this will lead to the plant building up a large green mass, to the detriment of the setting and development of the fruit.

Organization of feeding during the season

When to feed?

The timing of the beginning of feeding depends on at what time and in what volume, how and by what, the ridge on which the pepper was planted was refueled. If in the autumn compost or humus was laid in the soil, and in the spring during digging, the earth was fertilized with mineral fertilizers, then there is less need for fertilizers and fertilizing can be carried out somewhat later. Peppers planted in small greenhouses can be fed less frequently - every 15-20 days. Consider in more detail than to feed pepper in a greenhouse. (See also Topping Tomato)

First feeding

Planting pepper seedlings in a greenhouse is carried out when the height of the plant reaches 15-25 cm, on it there are at least 8 real leaves and buds are already laid. So after about 14-15 days  after transplanting peppers to a permanent place, plants begin to bloom. It is at this time that the first top dressing of peppers is carried out in the greenhouse.

You can use a solution of any bird droppings in water, in a ratio of 1:15, which has been infused for at least 5 days, or a liquid mullein in a ratio of 1:10, which has been infused for a week. If organic fertilizers are not available, then you can dissolve 40 g superphosphate  and ammonium nitrate, add 20 g of potassium sulfate, in 10 liters of warm and settled water. Tip: a so-called “herbal tea” is a very good fertilizer containing all the micro and macro elements necessary for plants. Making it yourself is very simple: nettle, wood louse, dandelion, plantain or coltsfoot, that is, any weeds that you remove from your site, are finely chopped or cut. It is important that there are no seeds and roots on the plants.

All this green “pulp”, the weight of which should be about 6-7 kg, will fit in a 100 liter barrel. There they lay 1 glass of any ash and a bucket of mullein. Water is barrel-boiled, and then all its contents are thoroughly mixed. The resulting composition should be infused for at least a week.

The first feeding of tomatoes in the greenhouse, and of any other crops, including pepper, is carried out 1-2l per plant. Two weeks after the first feeding, during the formation of the ovaries and the development of the fruits, the second feeding is carried out.

Second feeding

In the event that the first feeding of pepper in the greenhouse was carried out with mineral fertilizers, the second should contain organic substances. To do this, you can dilute 1 glass of urea in a 100 liter barrel,? buckets of any bird droppings, 1 bucket of last year's manure.

All components are filled with water and left to infuse for 5-7 days. Then it is used at the rate of 5-6 liters of solution for every 1 m2. In the event that you notice the fragility of the stems or shoots of peppers, as well as saturated dark green leaves, indicating an excessive amount of nitrogen in the soil, you can feed the plants by dissolving 1 hour .spoon of potassium sulfate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate in 10 l of water.

Foliar top dressing

Throughout the entire period of growth and development of peppers, plants need both calcium, phosphorus, magnesium and calcium, as well as trace elements such as iodine, molybdenum, zinc, boron, manganese. A good way to bring all these necessary and important substances to the plant is foliar top dressing, in other words, spraying the entire plant with a fertilizer solution. If the plants do not grow well, foliar top dressing will help to stimulate the growth and development processes. To do this, dilute 1 teaspoon of urea in 10 liters of water. In the event that the plants began to shed flowers and ovaries, foliar feeding of peppers with a solution of boric acid can help (solution of 1 teaspoon in 10 liters of water). When the fruits are poorly formed, you can spray with a solution of 1 hour. tablespoons of superphosphate into 5 liters of water.Before starting to spray, the prepared solutions should be filtered and then sprayed with a spray gun. In order to protect peppers in the greenhouse from pests such as spider mites and aphids, as well as to increase the resistance of this crop to various diseases, it is recommended to periodically perform foliar dressing of plants an aqueous solution of ash, which contains all the necessary elements.

For each person, it is obvious that it is not always possible, even with the maximum effort expended, to get a decent harvest. It is not a matter of the quantity and total weight of the fruit, although this is also an extremely important indicator.

But you can collect a mountain of vegetables, the taste of which will not be up to par. Why does it depend? There are no trifles in growing vegetables, everything is important here: the timing of planting seedlings in the soil or greenhouse, an irrigation schedule, and proper pinching.

But nothing affects the taste of the fruit like fertilizer. Therefore, in this article we will talk about how to feed tomatoes in a greenhouse and in open ground. The scheme for feeding tomatoes in greenhouse conditions and in open ground conditions is almost the same, the only difference is that there is no one-time fertilizer application immediately after transplanting.

general informationSome inexperienced gardeners ask themselves the question: "Why think out how to feed tomatoes for growth?" A certain part of people has a clearly formed opinion: fertilizer is bad. There are reasons for such a statement: if there are a lot of fertilizers, they not only badly affect the plants, but also are deposited in the fruits, making them tasteless, inedible or unsafe for human health.

Therefore, it is extremely important to adhere to the recommended concentration. However, you still have to think about how to feed the tomatoes. Indeed, in order for one centner of tomatoes to form, the plant must process about 0.25 kg of nitrogen, 0.15 kg of phosphorus and up to half a kilogram of potassium.

Non-root top dressingWhen the question arises of how to feed tomatoes, most people choose only root dressings. However, there is a way to add all the beneficial substances, bypassing the root system.

By analogy with humans, it looks like this: drugs introduced through the stomach (into the soil) act slower than those that enter the body through the blood (absorbed from the surface of the leaves). Foliar top dressing is carried out with special drugs, such as "Master" or "Plantafol ", Conventional mineral or organic mixtures are not suitable for this. It is very convenient to combine such top dressing with spraying from various pests and diseases. What to feed tomatoes: the classic fertilizer application schedule The fertilizer application schedule is compiled individually for each particular case, however you must follow several general rules: - tomatoes fertilize 4-5 times per season; - very timely watering is important: useful substances should not lie dead weight in dry earth, but should be delivered to plants with water; - plenty of moisture leads to leaching of fertilizers, so in rainy summers or in trouble In soils, the number of top dressings is doubled, but the amount of introduced substances decreases by about a third; - root dressings can be carried out both with special mineral mixtures and independently made from potassium permanganate, egg shell crumbs, wood ash, humus, chicken droppings, etc. So, you have received full information on how to feed tomatoes. It remains only to put this knowledge into practice and grow a rich, tasty and healthy crop.

Topping tomatoes in open ground and a greenhouse

Tomatoes grade EupatorSo, two weeks have passed since you planted tomato seedlings in a greenhouse or open ground. It's time to feed the plants. Topping tomatoes in open ground or a greenhouse - is there a difference? What types of top dressing are there at all?

In recent years, gardeners (those whom I know) give preference to organics, trying less to use mineral fertilizers. Very popular is home-made cheap, but very effective “green fertilizer”. But about him, a little lower.

Types of fertilizing tomatoes

There are two types of top dressing. Root and extra root. Most gardeners use root top dressing. It feeds plants through the root system, that is, it is watering with a nutritious mineral or organic solution under the root.

Many people know about foliar, but they use it less often, but in vain. Foliar - this is when we apply the same nutrient solution directly to the leaves of plants. This type of fertilizing tomatoes with mineral or organic fertilizers has several advantages.

Firstly, it saves fertilizer. Because when we bring them under plants, a significant part of the nutrients is washed out with watering, during rain, not all nutrients go to the plant.

And when we bring the solution to the surface of the leaf, all the nutrients pass through the leaf into the plant. Moreover, this happens very quickly. Therefore, foliar top dressing is much faster than the root.

Secondly, it is used to promptly help a plant suffering from a deficiency of one or another microelement. I try to use foliar top dressing more often for seedlings, for plants recently planted in open ground or a greenhouse, that is, for younger seedlings. For foliar top dressing, lower concentrations of solution are used than for root seedlings, so as not to cause leaf burns.

Fertilizers are used for it, which are completely dissolved without sediment, which do not contain chlorine. Usually these are liquid forms of fertilizer mixtures, no matter what they are - mineral or organic.

Try to use non-chlorinated water for preparing nutrient solutions - rainwater or at least well-maintained tap water. Both root and foliar top dressings are equally useful for tomatoes that grow in open ground, and for greenhouse ones. In the first half of the growing season, plants should be alternated.

In the second - go to the root dressing. A greenhouse with high humidity should be ventilated more often, especially after spraying. In order for the plant to get the maximum benefit from any top dressing, you need to know when - in the morning, afternoon, evening - it is better to carry them out.

When to feed tomatoes

A very important point: if you are doing foliar top dressing or root dressing, then this should be done in the morning or evening. Why is that? If we are talking about foliar, then the nutrient solution should be on the surface of the leaves for as long as possible, so that it can absorb.

And in bright sunshine, spraying leaves can cause a burn. This is the first. And secondly, the sun will quickly dry the droplets of the nutrient solution, it will not have time to completely absorb in the leaves.

When foliar top dressing, you should make sure that the solution falls not only on the outside of the leaf, but also on the inside. Under the root, water the plants with a mineral or organic solution, too, in the early morning or evening. I prefer evening watering, and my neighbor in the country waters her cucumbers, tomatoes in a greenhouse or open ground only early in the morning.

The reasons, too, seem to be clear: water or a nutrient solution that has fallen on the leaves during the day can cause a burn of leaves. You should not force the plant to waste energy on healing or healing wounds.

How often should feeding be done?

The question is usually asked, how often do you need to fertilize tomatoes with mineral or organic fertilizers? The short answer is not very often. And, more precisely, then I spend them, both root and non-root after 10-15 days. That is, about 2-3 times a month. I alternate them.

Once - foliar top dressing, next time - I feed my tomatoes at the root. I do foliar top dressing (spraying) in the first half of the growing season, that is, as soon as I noticed that the first fruits were full, they started to turn white, I stop feeding. And I continue to do root ones during the whole period of vegetation (development) of tomatoes. The first time is to feed the tomatoes 10-12 days after transplanting.

When the flowering of tomatoes begins, do not miss the deadlines - the number of ovaries and the harvest will depend on this. In the greenhouse or open ground, top dressing is carried out as follows. It is necessary to feed each plant individually.

If the soil under the plants is dry, it is necessary to moisten the soil a little before top dressing. Water the tomatoes with clean water, the temperature of which is not lower than 20-22? C. When watering in a greenhouse, try to ensure that water does not fall on the leaves - there is no need for excess moisture there.

Water in the morning - after this, be sure to ventilate the greenhouse. And after watering, pour half a liter of nutrient solution under each tomato bush. I try to do foliar top dressing of tomatoes in the greenhouse in the morning, so that by the evening the nutrient solution is absorbed. Plants should be dry at night.

How to feed tomatoes in a greenhouse or open ground

For the first feeding after transplanting seedlings, I use liquid fertilizer based on humates. This year it is GUMI Kuznetsova (a natural fertility elixir). For 10 liters of water - 2 tablespoons of elixir. But you can proceed from the assortment of your shops for gardeners and gardeners.

It’s nice to use Gumat-80, Gumat + 7, Gumat-Universal, Emerald, Ideal. For 10 liters of water, 1-2 tablespoons of fertilizer is enough.

Add 1 tablespoon of instant mineral fertilizer (for example, Fertika Universal) to each plant. 0.5 liter of solution is enough for each plant. Tomatoes in open ground or in a greenhouse are better to undernourish than to overfeed. Therefore, when planting seedlings from mineral fertilizers I use only ash and compost.

After planting - humate-based fertilizer with Fertika Universal. And that’s all. The following dressings are organic only.

How to make organic "green manure" yourself

I really like the positive reaction of my tomatoes to "green manure". How do I cook it? Very simple. There are a lot of recipes for this “green fertilizer”. Its base is mowed green weed grass. I have an old metal 200 liter barrel.

But they do not advise using a metal barrel for the preparation of this fertilizer, apparently, the process of metal oxidation adversely affects the quality. I don’t have a plastic barrel. You know yourself, there are almost no hopeless situations.

I bought a huge 300-liter plastic bags. I put one bag in another (for strength), placed them inside the barrel. Filled 1/3 with water so that she straightened them.

The polyethylene was slightly warmed up by the sun, became elastic, stretched out, the bags were tightly clad outside on the edge of the barrel. I got a metal barrel with a plastic liner. So, I already had a little water in the barrel, I add mowed grass there.

Experienced gardeners are advised to fill the barrel with mowed nettles. But I didn’t have so much nettle, so I threw an almost full (2/3) barrel of different weeds, and nettle was there too.

I threw about 1 kg of wood ash, half a bucket of chicken manure on top, added 2 liters of milk “store” whey (natural, they say, 1 liter is enough), a pack of baker’s yeast (100 g). I added water almost to the top. This recipe was taken long ago from the book “Sense Agriculture” by Yu. I. Slashchina.

He calls this solution an infusion of microbial organisms. The author instead of yeast recommends adding mash - 3 liters of non-chlorinated water, insist 150 g of sugar for 2-3 days. The solution in the barrel wanders very actively and stink, sorry for the details, not the most pleasant one.

And you need to mix the fertilizer at least once a day. All this is insisted weeks 1,5-2. Then I take out the fermented grass. When it dries, I put it under the zucchini. Why zucchini - I do not know.

Somehow it happened from the very beginning. Zucchini is very grateful. You can try using this mulch on other plants. A little more than half of the nutrient infusion in the barrel is obtained.

Top up the barrel. I take a ready-made infusion (500 ml), add it to a watering can with water (6 liters), water tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, pumpkins - half a liter of solution per bush. Yes, I almost forgot. The effect will be better if the soil under the plants is moist.

That is, before root dressing, be sure to water the tomatoes in open ground or in a greenhouse. I really like the result of such organic dressing - the plants are always green, they look healthy, tolerate bad weather, grow very quickly, a lot of fruits are tied up and, it seems to me, less pain , that is, their immunity has increased. With this solution, root and foliar top dressing can be carried out. I usually spend foliar planting on young plants planted in open ground or a greenhouse.

Watering under the root - every 10-12 days. I have enough of this solution for a long time. But everything, of course, depends on the number of plants planted. If I feel that “green fertilizer” is not enough, then after less than half of it remains in the barrel, I fill the barrel with new grass.

I’m not adding anything else except water. I wait 10-15 days - a new nutrient solution is ready. This "green fertilizer" works well against late blight.

At least, it seems to me that after I started using it, there were almost no cases of late blight on the leaves, fruits. Last year (2013), only a few tomato fruits (5 pieces), growing in open ground, were thrown from one bush.

I did not notice any signs of late blight on the remaining bushes. But this garden year (2014) began with rainy weather. Humidity in the greenhouse and in the garden is high.

To prevent late blight on tomatoes, powdery mildew or downy mildew on cucumbers, zucchini, I additionally treat the plants with a solution of milk serum (1 liter per 10 liters of water), to which I add 10 drops of iodine. This solution is especially beneficial for tomatoes.

Iodine helps to increase the number of ovaries, and whey has a depressing effect on pathogenic fungi. To prevent late blight on tomatoes, I alternate processing. Once with a solution of whey, and another with a solution of Fitosporin.

This drug not only protects tomatoes from the development of late blight, it also nourishes plants with bioactive microelements, especially its new modification - Fitosporin-M. Sometimes I skip lactic acid treatment, but I always replace it with Fitosporin solution, which well inhibits the development of fungal and bacterial diseases on plants. Do not forget that moisture, high humidity in greenhouses or in the garden during the rainy season have a beneficial effect on the development of late blight and others fungal, bacterial diseases.

Be sure to treat your seedlings, do not wait for the first signs of the disease to appear. If the disease has begun to manifest itself, then fighting it is already late and almost useless. So, the answer to the main question.

Pepper refers to nightshade crops that require special care in terms of applying mineral and organic fertilizers. This seedlings can be grown in greenhouses, which allows you to get fruits long before their seasonal appearance on open beds. Feeding peppers in a greenhouse is the most important component of the proper cultivation of this plant, without which it is not only difficult, but almost impossible to get a good harvest. How to fertilize peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse, with what frequency and to what extent - in our article.

Soil preparation in the greenhouse

As a rule, soil preparation and fertilizing is performed either in the autumn season, after harvesting, or in spring. Summer residents, that is, those who grow vegetables, as they say, immediately on the table, prefer the second option. In this case, at least 10 days before the planting material is planted in the soil of the greenhouse, it must be enriched with nutrients.

Spring work with soil

For these purposes, you should prepare such a mixture:

• potassium sulfate - 15 grams;
• superphosphate preparation –30 grams;
• wood ash –7-8 tablespoons;
• decayed manure or compost - half a bucket.

Dosage is based on the treatment of m2 of land. For lack of the above components, you can use ready-made specialized mineral feed. Preparations of this category, for the most part, are made at the rate of two tablespoons per m2 of soil.

As part of mineral fertilizers, the amount of chlorine should be minimal.

Before using any finished product, be sure to read its composition. In the presence of chlorine, it is better to refuse such a product, since pepper, in principle, does not tolerate it well, and with an excess begins to instantly wither.

After applying a complex of fertilizers to the soil, a shallow cultivation of the beds is necessary. After that, abundant watering is carried out with warm water. It is imperative that the water temperature is in the range of 20-25 ° C. This will help nutrients absorb faster into the ground.

After watering, the ground is closed with a colorless film base, which is removed immediately before transplanting.

Autumn works

This is a more favorable field of work, which allows to better prepare the soil for planting. Autumn work to increase soil fertility is a key factor in ensuring the growth and development of crops next year.

Before winter, complex mineral complexes are not introduced into the soil. It’s enough to use organics:

• manure;
• humus;
• bird droppings;
• peat.

These components are mixed in equal parts, the composition covers the beds and dig.

After fertilizing, the beds must be dug up

With this article they read: Mold in a greenhouse - ways to combat and prevent

How to organize seasonal feeding

First of all, it is worth figuring out when it is necessary to make fertilizers.

The timing

Fertilizer application time largely depends on the autumn tillage. So, if in the autumn the land was cultivated with compost or humus, and in the spring, mineral preparations were added to it, then the quantitative proportion of fertilizer will be minimal, and the timing of their introduction will be late.

Pepper seedlings, as well as tomatoes, as well as eggplants planted in small greenhouse shelters, are fed once every 15-20 days.

VIDEO: When, how and how to feed pepper in a greenhouse

After transplanting seedlings

If seedlings were planted in a greenhouse shelter in a timely manner, when the sprouts already had at least 8 full leaves, then 15 days after transplanting, mass flowering is observed.

It is during this period that plants need first feeding. For this, as a rule, a solution of bird droppings diluted in purified water from chlorine is used at a rate of 1:15, respectively. Before irrigation, such a mixture should be infused for at least five days. Bird droppings can be replaced with liquid mullein, diluting it in water in a proportion of 1:10. In this case, the infusion time is seven days.

Chicken droppings as fertilizer

For lack of organic components, seedling treatment with a solution based on the following components is allowed:

• superphosphate substances - 30 g;
• ammonia-based nitrate –20 g;
• potassium sulfate - 15 g.

All ingredients are dissolved in a ten-liter bucket.

In addition, there is also fertilizing seedlings of tomatoes and peppers with folk remedies. This is the so-called "herbal infusion", which can be easily prepared on their own. To do this, you need the following ingredients:

• nettle leaves;
• wood lice;
• dandelion tops;
• plantain leaves.

All greens are finely chopped with a knife. One condition is that there should not be seed elements or rhizomes on plants. In the final count, about 6.5 kg of green porridge of a similar mixture should be obtained, which is placed in a 100-liter container. As a last, a barrel is perfect. To the pulp is added wood ash in the amount of one glass and a bucket of mullein. After that, the contents are poured with non-chlorinated water and everything is thoroughly mixed.

You can use such a composition 15 days after preparation. The consumption rate is 1.5 liters per plant bush. Re-introduction of "herbal infusion" is carried out after 15 days after the first vitaminization procedure.

This article reads: Wood ash as fertilizer for the soil.

Fertilizer folk remedies

To ensure the full cultivation of this nightshade culture, it is necessary to alternate the complexes. So, if the first feeding, which was introduced into the soil, was mineral, then the second must necessarily be based on organic substances. And vice versa.

You can try one of the effective recipes: for a 100-liter capacity we take one glass of urea, half a bucket of bird droppings and a bucket of decayed manure. All ingredients are thoroughly mixed, poured with water and infused for a week. Such an infusion is applied at the rate of 5.5 liters per m2 of land.

Mineral fertilizers, which include superphosphate, must be prepared at least 24 hours before use. This is due to the fact that superphosphate substances are very poorly soluble in water. And the indicated time period is quite enough for this component to completely dissolve.

Foliar application

During the entire period of seedling growth, it requires regular mineral and organic nutrition. And in order to provide the plant with all these microelements, experts recommend resorting to foliar feeding when a leafy culture system and its stems are irrigated with a nutrient solution.

With wilting leaves and the absence of damage, foliar top dressing is performed

For example, if you are stunted, you can use urea-based irrigation baths (a teaspoon of 10 liters of water). And when dropping ovaries and flowers, an infusion of boric acid (a teaspoon per ten-liter bucket) is great.

To stimulate good fruiting, irrigation is carried out with a composition of superphosphates (2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water).

Before spraying the plant with a mineral or organic solution, strain it through a sieve. This will prevent the ingress of insoluble particles of fertilizer on the foliage, which can lead to burns.

In order to protect the vegetation from ticks, aphids and increase resistance to all kinds of diseases characteristic of nightshade crops, experts advise treating the vegetation with a solution based on wood ash once every two weeks.

How to fertilize pepper

1. Solanaceae are fed every two weeks, alternating not only the type of nutritious feed, but also the method (foliar with root).
2. Before entering the fertilizer, the seedlings are plentifully watered with warm water.
3. After root irrigation, shallow cultivation and mulching of the soil is carried out to maintain moisture.

Mulching can be done with straw or dry cut grass

Here, in fact, all the nuances of feeding peppers in a greenhouse. We hope these tips will help you get a high-quality and high yield.

VIDEO: Tips for growing bell pepper in a greenhouse

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Proper feeding of sweet peppers in the greenhouse

Bell pepper belongs to the nightshade family and is a heat-loving plant, depending on the climate of the region, it can grow in soil, greenhouses or greenhouses. This vegetable is demanding on potassium and nitrogen, so the question often arises: how to feed pepper in a greenhouse? When feeding, varietal features should be taken into account.

At the initial stages, plants simply need phosphorus fertilizers, since they stimulate root development, and preparations containing calcium and nitrogen should be used to stimulate the formation of fruits. The soil substrate in a greenhouse or in a greenhouse for peppers should also have sufficient fertility, if the soil is sparse, peppers can stop growing and not give such desired fruits.

Pepper is a very thermophilic plant, and it is in the greenhouse that all optimal conditions of humidity and temperature are created, as a result of which bell peppers from the greenhouse will delight you with their appearance and taste.

Greenhouse soil preparation

Growth processes directly depend on the composition of the soil in which the seedlings of peppers are planted, so before planting seedlings, it is necessary to prepare greenhouse soil. For this, measures should be taken to disinfect the soil; for this, a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 l of solution per square meter) is used. Before planting make the following solutions:

• a solution of rotted manure, one liter of mullein, a spoon of copper sulfate per 10 liters of liquid is used for its preparation. Such a solution is applied in a dose of five liters per meter approximately 5-6 days before planting seedlings of pepper;
• a mixture of 20 grams of superphosphate, potassium sulfate and azofoski;
• to prevent the appearance of excess dampness, the soil should be sprinkled with ash or dolomite flour, these substances can avoid an increase in acidity;
• the introduction of sawdust, rotted manure and peat into the soil can improve its structure, sometimes crushed eggshells are used for these purposes.

In some cases, greenhouse soil is prepared in the fall, and 5 kilograms of fertilizer per meter can be used as nitrogen fertilizer, and superphosphate can be applied at a dose of 50 grams per meter. After autumn top dressing, in the spring it is enough to dig the soil with a turnover of the reservoir.

Varieties of peppers grown in greenhouses should have a long growing season. Famous varieties of pepper for greenhouses are:

• Amika F1 is an exotic look of peppers with cream-colored fruits;
• The Golden Pheasant;
• "Sun";
• "Orange Miracle";
• “Veronica”, “Anastasia”, “Kolobok”, “Shorokshary” possess red fruits.

Feeding Technique

To cultivate pepper in a greenhouse, it is very important not to abuse fertilizers, therefore it is enough to introduce useful elements every two weeks. Pre peppers should be abundantly watered and only then fertilizer should be applied.

Then carry out loosening, if the soil surface is covered with mulch, loosening is not necessary. Organics and minerals must be correctly alternated throughout the entire growing process. For proper top dressing, the following terms and proportions must be observed.

First application

At the initial stage, peppers are fed in the greenhouse 10-15 days after placing the pepper bushes in a permanent place. Often seedlings are planted at the stage of reaching a height of 20 cm. At the time of formation of the ovaries, bird droppings should be made, observing the dosage of 1 part of the litter and 10 parts of water.

Important! Experienced vegetable growers recommend using herbs and microelements as microelements. In this case, various herbs (nettle, wood lice, sow thistle) are finely chopped, two pinches of wood ash and a bucket of rotted manure are added, put all this in a container of 100 l and add water.

In this case, the herbal gruel should be about 8 kilograms. Such a solution is insisted for 10 days, after which they are watered, approximately 1.5 liters per bush.

Second application

The second time, peppers are fed after 15 days, it is during this period that alternation should be taken into account, that is, if at the beginning you treated with mineral fertilizers, then the next time it is carried out with organo-containing elements.

As a top dressing, the following composition of nutrients is used: a glass of urea, half a bucket of bird droppings of rotted manure, all components are poured into a container or container with a capacity of 100 l and water is added, then allowed to settle for 8 days, after which irrigation is carried out, at the rate of 5 l solution per meter.

The saturated green color of the leaves and stems indicates that the soil contains an excessive nitrogen content, in these cases you should prepare this mixture: add 10 teaspoons of potassium sulfate and superphosphate to 10 liters of water.

Spraying or foliar top dressing solves several problems:

• to stimulate growth processes, peppers are sprayed with a solution: one teaspoon of urea per 10 liters of water;
• if pepper discards leaves and fruit ovaries should be fed with a solution: a teaspoon of boric acid and 10 liters of water;
• if the fruits are sung unevenly, then it is necessary to spray with a mixture of one teaspoon of superphosphate and 5 l of water.

To protect plants in the greenhouse from pests, spraying with an aqueous ash solution is carried out.

Important! Pepper negatively relates to excess nitrogen-containing fertilizers, such an excess leads to the formation of a saturated green ground mass, but inhibits the formation of ovaries and fruits.

Feeding Mode

To develop a feeding regimen during the growing season should be based on what fertilizers were applied to the soil in autumn and spring. Peppers that grow in small greenhouses should be fed approximately once every two weeks 3 times per season. Phosphorus fertilizers should be applied throughout the entire period, it can be said, from seed to the period of fruit formation.

Phosphorus has a beneficial effect on the development of the root system and accelerates the ripening of fruits. Almost the same effect is exerted by magnesium and calcium, so timely and regular application of such fertilizers will help to get excellent yields of fragrant peppers.

Peppers need organic fertilizers throughout the entire period, the main requirement for such fertilizers is the introduction of drugs in small doses.

Important! To preserve the bushes, fresh manure should not be used as organic fertilizer, as it can cause damage and the bushes will simply burn out.

An effective fertilizer is a solution containing:

1. Ammonium nitrate - 20 grams.
2. Potassium sulfate - 30 grams.
3. Superphosphate - 40 gr.
4. 10 liters of water.

Carry out regular inspections of the bushes, and if you find the following undesirable symptoms:

1. Twisting the edges of the sheet plates indicates a lack of potassium.
2. If a darkened color (violet) appears on the back of the leaves of the pepper, this indicates a lack of phosphorus elements.
3. The gray color of the stems and leaves indicates a lack of nitrogen.

In such cases, top dressing by spraying will help you, a huge plus of foliar top dressing is that the nutrients in this way quickly penetrate the leaves and stems and have a positive effect.

In rare cases, additional feeding is carried out, which have a targeted effect, for example:

• strengthening growth processes;
• acceleration of ripening effects;
• stimulation of the formation of ovaries.

Conclusion

From the above information, it is easy to understand that in order to get a good harvest of peppers, three important steps should be done:

• the right choice of variety;
• prepare the soil well;
• to develop a competent feeding scheme and know exactly how to feed peppers in a greenhouse.

Observing all the stages, be sure that you will delight your loved ones with the sweet and fragrant fruits of bell pepper. Good luck

prosadiogorod.ru

How to feed pepper after planting in a greenhouse?

You can get an excellent crop of peppers if you properly and correctly feed the plants in the greenhouse. Pepper refers to those crops that respond very well to the presence of mineral fertilizers in the soil. It is especially recommended to feed with nitrogen and potassium, but the chlorine content in fertilizers should be in minimal quantities, and even better if it is not in them at all.

The choice of fertilizer will depend on various factors - on the variety and age of seedlings, on its condition, on the weather. For the normal growth and development of pepper, it will be necessary during this period to introduce phosphate fertilizers into the ground until the hearths are formed. During growth and fruiting, the plant needs nitrogen and calcium. At the time of formation of the ovaries, supplements with potassium should be used.

Young plants at the time of active growth must be fertilized with mineral and organic fertilizers. Watering should be done carefully under the root, so as not to fall on the foliage and stems.

Fertilizers for pepper in the greenhouse

Young peppers need to be fed after planting in the greenhouse not immediately, but after a couple of weeks. The best option would be to use natural fertilizers. You can breed chicken droppings (take 1 to 5), insist the mixture for at least five days. In addition to chicken droppings, a liquid mullein is suitable, which is first bred in a ratio of 1 to 10 and insisted for at least a week. If there is no organic fertilizer, then you can prepare the solution using ammonium nitrate and superphosphate (40 g each) and potassium sulfate (20 g), all this must be dissolved in ten liters of warm water. The water temperature should be approximately the same as the ground in the greenhouse (about 25 ° C). Before applying fertilizer, you must first pour pepper with warm water. And after top dressing, it is imperative to loosen the earth around the bush, if the soil is not mulched.

For the first feeding, you can prepare herbal fertilizer. To do this, you need to collect all the weed grass that is on the site (for example, dandelions, plantain or nettle) to get about six to seven kilograms. The mass should not have roots and seeds. After the greens are crushed and placed in a barrel, where a bucket of mullein and a glass of ash are added, water is poured and mixed well. After seven days, you will have ready herbal fertilizer, which is perfect for the first feeding of peppers. A liter of fertilizer should be used up for each bush.

A couple of weeks after the first feeding, they perform one more. At this point, the ovaries should begin to form on the pepper. This time, you should definitely feed the plants with organic fertilizers.

It is necessary to carefully examine the stems of plants and shoots. If they turn out to be very fragile, and the foliage has a deep dark green color, then this is a sign of the saturation of the earth with nitrogen. In this situation, a teaspoon of potassium sulfate and a tablespoon of superphosphate should be diluted in warm water (10 l).

Further, during the entire growth and fruiting cycle, peppers will need different substances (zinc, iodine, manganese, calcium and others). Feeding is recommended by spraying plants from a spray bottle. It is very useful to do foliar top dressing with ash diluted in water, which includes the mass of elements necessary for pepper.

ladym.ru

Pepper fertilizer in the greenhouse

• Greenhouse Pepper Care
  • How to feed weak seedlings of pepper in a greenhouse?
  • Dates for fertilizing weakened peppers in a greenhouse
  • How to fertilize pepper depending on its age?
  • The correct ratio of nutrients to fertilizers
  • Spring feeding greenhouse peppers
  • Summer dressing of pepper in a greenhouse

With the onset of the warm season, you can often go outside, walk, relax and, of course, work. This applies mainly to summer cottages, because it is precisely outside the city that you have to devote a lot of time to such a process as planting various crops, processing them, watering and much more. Do not forget about the need for timely nutrition of peppers in the greenhouse and other crops, such as: cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes.

Before planting in open ground, the age of peppers should be 75-85 days.

Tools for working with pepper seedlings.

First, several important conditions must be observed. First of all, if you plant pepper in the ground not in the house, but in a greenhouse or greenhouse, you need to check the soil. It should be soft, warm and sufficiently moist. Ideal peppers grow in the area where onions or carrots were grown last season, but it is necessary to avoid the soil where tomatoes or potatoes grew the day before, since they and peppers are exposed to the harmful effects of the same pests. Before planting seedlings in a greenhouse, you need to fertilize the earth using rotted manure or compost. This will be the first top dressing of pepper in the greenhouse. If you cannot find this type of fertilizer, then in any specialized store you will definitely find something that will suit both your site and pepper.

Fertilizer should be carried out a second time no earlier than 1.5-2 weeks after the pepper is planted in the greenhouse. And in the third - during the fruiting period. Also, do not forget about the additional nutrition of pepper in the greenhouse. So, if you notice that the plant needs feeding, be sure to carry out a reserve fertilizer. This can be understood by the appearance of the stem and leaves of pepper. For example, if the basal leaves turned red, then pepper needs phosphorus, nitrogen deficiency manifests itself in the acquisition of a gray matte shade by the plant, in the case of a lack of potassium, the leaves dry out and begin to curl.

Each of the above additives is necessary, but their action is aimed at some kind of 1 process - flowering, fruiting and plant growth.

In any case, it is necessary to monitor the development and condition of pepper when organic fertilizers are introduced into the soil.

Organic fertilizers must be used regardless of the state of the soil and how well the pepper grows. Such feeding will not hurt, but it will not be superfluous. In order to strengthen the seedlings in the greenhouse, try to saturate the air with carbon. To do this, it is best to install a tank for digesting manure in the greenhouse and fill it with half fresh manure and half settled warm water. Fertilizing peppers even at the seedling stage allows you to create strong shoots, which subsequently are much easier to adapt to the future environment.