Dracaena after transplanting lowered leaves what to do. Dracaena leaves fell. Transplant root damage
Why did dracaena drop leaves?
My dracaena lowered the leaves as soon as I brought to the balcony after the winter, which I didn’t do, but the leaves didn’t rise, but returned to the room for 3 days, she rose and now the beauty is standing, she has dismissed all the leaves.
Dracaena, although an unpretentious houseplant, but still to be beautiful and lush (the leaves looked up), you need to properly care for it. The first signs that the dracaena lacks care are dropping leaves, the leaves turn yellow and fall off too often.
Dracaena does not like to be watered too often. The earthen lump should dry before the next watering. Young plants need to be replanted every year and at the same time increase the size of the pot by 1-2 fingers so that the roots are not crowded.
Perhaps the cause of sunken leaves is a lack of nutrients. It is necessary to feed the plant at least 1 time per month (or 1 time in 2 weeks). I use vermicompost liquid for feeding.
Dracaena also loves the presence of oxygen at the roots. Therefore, you need to periodically loosen the soil on the surface.
In the summer, spraying is beneficial, but only this should be done in the evening, when the sun is not so strong (if you say your plant is on the balcony).
Dracaena does not like dry air. This time. It needs to be sprayed. In addition, if it’s hot in the winter, dracaena will always have such dropped leaves in your apartment. They will turn yellow over time. I have 24 degrees and the dracaena was very bad.
Perhaps she is standing on your sunny side and it may be hot. Put it in the shade or just open the window so that the plant is not so hot. And in the summer you need to water the flowers twice a week than in the winter.
Dracaena their leaves leaves seldom. If this happened, it means they did not take good care of the plant, or for a long time they were not at home.
It should be noted that it is very sensitive to drafts. If put on a draft, then not only the leaves will lower.
Also, you can not put a flower in bright direct sunlight.
Unnecessary plant transfusion.
Moderate watering will save the dracaena from root decay.
More often the plant must be sprayed. She likes this dracaena, and the leaves will stand like ears in a hare in the cold.
The land in which the dracaena is transplanted or planted should not be heavy. It should be well filled with oxygen. It is possible, and it is necessary to make drainage on 1/3 of the subboil.
The soil often needs to be loosened.
Dracaena will live longer.
My dracaena lowered the leaves after they began to open the windows for ventilation in the summer. And fertilized, and reduced the number of leaves - rejuvenated, but to no avail. I removed it from the window into the room and in a day the plant came to life, all the leaves rose. Most likely she lowered the leaves due to drafts and dry air.
We dracaena lowered the leaves after moving. The moving was in winter and the plant simply froze, the leaves seemed to wilt. It didn’t turn out to be fully revived, but nevertheless for the most part it recovered over time. The reason for this may be a draft or a too sunny place.
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Low humidity
Most often, the drying of the leaves occurs in the winter, when the heating batteries are working in the room. Dracaena is a native of the humid tropics, so dry air is absolutely unacceptable to her. To increase humidity, the crown must be sprayed daily. In addition, a glass of water can be placed next to the pot. Evaporating, it will help the dracaena survive the heating period. In the summer, the flower should be sprayed several times a day and regularly arrange “shower procedures” for it.
If the lower leaves completely and periodically (on average once every two years) completely dry the lower leaves, there is no reason for concern. Thus, the plant simply gets rid of the old foliage.
Watering problems
Despite the fact that dracaena loves moisture, it does not apply to the ground - it just has to have time to dry out. Stagnant moisture is as fatal to a flower as dry air. It is enough to water the plant once a week, and the rest of the time - to spray on the sheet.
However, it is impossible for the soil to dry completely - in this case, the leaves will not only dry out from the ends, but also become sluggish and gradually fall off.
Wrong place
The most optimal place for dracaena is away from sun-drenched windows. Direct rays literally burn out spots on the leaves, both at the tips and along the entire length of the sheet.
Some species of dracaena grow well even on the northern windows. However, it should be borne in mind that varieties with variegated foliage still need more light than plain plants.
The presence of pests
The leaves of dracaena begin to dry from the tips, and then completely, if a scab has settled on the bush. The most effective method of struggle is to collect insects with your hands while they are still young and have not had time to become covered with rough shell. Otherwise, you will have to resort to special drugs.
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A bit about Dracaena
Dracaena is a beautiful exotic plant found in nature in the humid climate of the subtropics of Africa, Asia and the Canary Islands. In nature, it can reach 20 meters in height with a trunk of several girths.
Of course, indoor dracaena cannot reach such a huge size. Nevertheless, this plant is able to attract attention with its originality. It is able to make any room cozy and attractive.
Sometimes dracaena is able to reach a height of several meters, but usually does not grow more than 50 centimeters. Rosettes of greenish-gray xiphoid leaves up to 50 cm long and 5 cm wide, collected at the top of the tree in an original bunch, will decorate your home or office.
Common types of dracaena
The most common variety is marginate. Sometimes it grows up to 3 meters in height. It is decorated with panicles, as if of disheveled leaves. Long narrow leaves disappear over time, and noticeable scars remain on the high trunk.
Another species is fragrant. It is so named because of its flowers, which have a strong aroma. But flowers at home rarely appear. It can grow to a height of 6 meters. Shiny and long green leaves bend beautifully to the ground.
Sandera - completely different from the previously described and is a shrub. Its leaves are oval, bright green in color with small golden spots.
Dragon - it grows slowly, has an exotic appearance, a resin that turns red in the air like blood, its height can reach one and a half meters.
Care
Dracaena is an unpretentious plant, so caring for it is simple and easy. This is a photophilous plant, so it is preferable to place it on the southern windows. However, at the height of summer, your pet needs to be lowered.
Bright sunlight is less harmful to flowers with colorful leaves, but dracaena with darker foliage need protection from the sun.
Water them often, but in moderation. In the summer - every other day, and do not forget to have a warm shower every week. For this, water having room temperature is needed.
With a decrease in room temperature to 14-16 degrees, reduce watering, the plant falls asleep. For irrigation, you need to use filtered or boiled water. And you still need to remember the main rule: waterlogging is always more harmful than drying out. This rule is also relevant for dracaena, although it is hygrophilous.
Like other domestic flowers, she needs to be fed.
With a lack of nutrients, even green leaves can fall. You need to feed with special fertilizers. Use them according to the detailed instructions on the packaging.
Breeding methods
For propagation, apical cuttings, pieces of stems, branches and seeds can be used. Planted in peat mixed with sand. Rooting occurs within 2 to 4 weeks.
Dracaena has a highly developed root system. A tight pot inhibits the growth of the flower, so it is necessary to transplant the plant annually, before the onset of the growth period. This is the end of March or the beginning of April.
When buying a plant in a store, it is best to transplant it as soon as possible. It is necessary to correlate the size of the plant and the pot. If it is forty centimeters high, then the diameter of the pot should be no more than 15 cm.
Dracaena is suitable substrate for palm trees. Pour drainage to the bottom of the tank to avoid root rot. We transplant the plant and water it well, adding a stimulating growth drug to the water.
Plant rejuvenation
Very often, gardeners have to deal with the problem of leaf falling in dracenas. Why is this happening and what to do?
Some species grow fast enough. Over time, the trunk of the plant begins to become bare due to falling of the lower leaves. This means that the plant needs to be rejuvenated.
Only to decide on it is scary. After all, it will be a pity if such a large crown cannot root or buds grow on the trunk and such a beautiful flower dies.
Throw away all doubts, because this plant is very lively, not many indoor flowers can compare with its resistance.
Pruning should be done with the onset of spring. It is necessary to cut off with a sharp secateurs, because to do this with a knife will not work. Cut at an arbitrary height, the surface of the cut is blotted to remove the allocated juice, sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, apply a garden var or pour wax.
The height of the cut top is left about 25 centimeters, removing the sheet plates located below. Then it needs to be dried for several hours, after which it is put in water with a tablet of activated carbon. The roots on it will appear within a month. After that, the top can be planted in the prepared substrate. It can be tied to a support, this will give stability.
The part of the trunk that turned out to be "superfluous" can be cut into separate segments. Each of them should have 2-3 growth buds. Dry the resulting pieces and place in a moist substrate for rooting. You can arrange them horizontally on the surface or vertically, slightly deepening.
The stump left after the cut will soon please you with awakened kidneys.
Of these, new sprouts will begin to develop. It is important to reduce watering after pruning, because the plant has nothing to evaporate moisture that enters the roots. Watering should be increased gradually, as the green mass increases.
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Why do dracaena drop leaves?
There may be several reasons:
- improper watering;
- not suitable in size pot;
- nutrient deficiency;
- lack of moisture;
- drafts and broken temperature;
- the plant was frozen.
Watering
The soil should be moist, not moist. The plant is watered with settled water at room temperature, when the earthen lump dries by about 2 cm. The irrigation regimen is 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in the flowerpot, pour claydite or coarse-grained sand with a layer of 3-4 cm on its bottom, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from decay. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.
In the hot summer period, the flower needs to be sprayed. To wash off the dust and refresh it, we recommend once a month to put the plant in the shower, covering the ground with cellophane. After bathing the leaf growth point, blot with a napkin.
Close pot
The second reason that the leaves are constantly lowered down may be an improperly sized flower pot. If it is small, then plant nutrition is difficult. Roots need space. Check the tightness of their fit to the walls of the pot. If necessary, transplant a flower.
The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.
Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.
Nutrient deficiency
Lower leaflets may fall down due to insufficient nutrients. In a tight pot with a very developed root system, the earth quickly becomes poorer, the upper crown grows due to the lower foliage. During the period of active growth from April to September 1-2 times a month, feed the roots with pre-selected fertilizers. When watering, you can use liquid fertilizers according to the instructions.
In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.
Temperature and humidity
Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.
A flower loves moist air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.
In a particularly hot period, you can put the pot on a pallet with water so that the bottom of the pot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.
Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.
As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. Evergreen palm up to 35 years old is considered to be young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.
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Main reasons
Typically, this problem occurs due to errors made by the owners in the care process. Leaves may fall off when there is insufficient or excessive watering. There are also natural causes due to which dracaena leaves fall.
These primarily include the age of the plant. Another factor is the inappropriate microclimate. Despite the fact that this flower is considered hardy and resistant to various environmental conditions, there are certain conditions for its maintenance.
In a healthy plant, the bark is quite dense. But as practice shows, dracaena may cause deterioration of the bark and leaves. If the reason is age, then nothing will be done with it. Each leaf lives a certain time. Subsequently, it turns yellow and falls off. This is a natural process, and you will not be able to resist it in any way.
However, there are cases when, at a young age, a flower loses all its leaves. The bark also deteriorates. The trunk becomes weak. Why does dracaena do this? Because you take care of her incorrectly. You are probably watering it wrong. It is not difficult to solve this problem: it is enough to ensure timely watering, and you will be able to maintain an attractive appearance of such a plant culture.
Often the owners of such plants are afraid of under-supplying water and carry out watering in a larger amount than the flower requires. Even given the fact that dracaena loves humidity, this cannot be done. As a rule, with an excess of liquid, dracaena drops its leaves in a rather short time. In this case, the bark begins to rot, as do the roots. What to do in this situation? It is enough to simply reduce the amount of water for irrigation and to make it not so often.
It is important to complete a series of immediate actions. Remove the flower from the pot without damaging the roots and bark (i.e. with soil). Remove some of the land to inspect the condition of the root system.
Remove those roots that have rotted. Allow the rest to dry, removing any remaining soil. Subsequently do not abuse the watering. The plant will stop dropping leaves as soon as the soil moisture level is normalized and the roots dry out.
If the dracaena has a soft trunk and leaves fall, this is a likely sign of improper watering.
To do this, dry the roots and plant the flower again in less moistened ground. The stem will wither away from excess fluid. As a result, leaves that can no longer be held on a weakened "skeleton" begin to fall. It is important to ensure that in the axils of the leaves after transplantation and watering, too, no water remains. Otherwise, they will rot and fall off again.
It is imperative to maintain the right microclimate. So you will be able to save even the "bald" flower. For these purposes, set the room temperature above +15 ° C. If the flower will be in a cold room for a long time, this will lead not only to falling leaves, but also to the death of the whole plant. In addition to optimal temperature conditions, it is required to regularly feed such a culture. This flower needs nutrients such as potassium nitrous, ammonium sulphide, potassium phosphate.
The components must be mixed and diluted in warm water. It is important not to overdo it using fluoride, otherwise the plant will begin to dry out, and you will only aggravate the problem. Now you know why dracaena drops leaves. Having figured out the reason, you will be able to quickly eliminate the errors of caring for the flower and return it to a healthy beautiful appearance.
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Symptoms of care mistakes and possible causes.
The upper leaves retain elasticity, but turn yellow: It is caused, as a rule, by a high content of calcium in the soil - in those plants that cannot tolerate lime, or by the hardness of water for irrigation.
The leaves lose their luster and look lifeless: The probable cause is too much light; another cause may be a red spider mite. Even healthy green leaves may appear faded if not washed.
Leaf discoloration (chlorosis): The leaves discolor and turn yellow, the streaks remain green. Usually this happens with a lack of iron and magnesium. Both elements are needed to keep the leaf green. Irrigation with water containing a lot of calcium leads to such a deficiency: calcium binds iron in the soil. You can fix this by starting to use iron chelates or brown algal extract and pour softened water.
Leaves discolor until they become transparent: This is due to a lack of nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary, in particular, for the formation of green leaves. To restore the green color of the leaves, it is necessary to fertilize with liquid fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. More long-term support may be horny flour, which must be gently mixed into the upper layer of the earth.
Drooping leaves: Common causes are either drying out the soil (due to insufficient watering) or waterlogging of the soil (due to poor drainage or too frequent watering). Other causes may be an excess of light (especially if the leaves wilt regularly in the middle of the day), dry air, too high air temperature, a cramped pot or pests.
Leaves curl and fall: The edges of the leaves curl and sometimes become dry. Twisting the leaves of plants is a measure of self-defense, because this reduces the surface of the leaf and less water evaporates from it. This happens when the plant is in a too warm place or receives little water. It is necessary to water the plant until the soil is completely saturated, or dip it in water and hold it. Choose a cooler place for him.
Leaves fall off suddenly: Rapid leaf fall without a previous long period of withering or discoloration usually indicates a shock suffered by the plant. It can be caused by a significant temperature difference (both lowering and increasing), a sharp increase in the intensity of illumination in the daytime or a strong cold draft. Sudden falling of leaves, especially in tree plants, can also be caused by drying out of the soil at the roots.
Leaves turn yellow and fall: The lower leaves of an adult plant naturally turn yellow over time and then fall. When this happens simultaneously with several leaves, the probable cause is waterlogging of the soil, lack of nitrogen, too dark place or cold drafts. First of all, you need to drastically reduce watering or completely replace the earth and less often water it. Regularly feed with appropriate fertilizers. Move the plant to a brighter place.
The lower leaves dry and fall: Three likely causes are a lack of light, too high air temperature and insufficient watering. The plant should be rearranged in a brighter place. Soak an earthball completely with water, immersing the pot for several hours in water. Move from a warm place to cooler conditions.
Leaves on new plants fall: For newly transplanted, just bought or transferred from one room to another plants, it is natural to lose one or two lower leaves. The shock from a change of scenery can be mitigated if the plant is transplanted only in a slightly larger pot than the previous one, sheltered when moving home from the store and transferred from a poorly lit place to a bright light with an intermediate stay for several days in partial shade.
Dots or spots on the leaves: If the dots or spots are dry and brown, then the most likely cause is a lack of water. If the affected areas are soft, dark brown light - this is most likely due to waterlogging of the soil. If the dots or spots are white or yellowish, the lesion is caused by the use of cold water when watering, a sharp drop in temperature, water getting on the leaves, aerosol damage, or illness / pests. If the spots are reddish, silver-white or brownish - the plant suddenly appeared under the influence of direct sunlight. If the affected area becomes wet and looks like a blister, or dry in the form of dents, the cause is the disease. Some pests can also cause leaf spotting.
Brown tips or leaf edges: The most likely cause is the drying of the leaf tips to dry air. Another possible cause is physical damage, when the tips of the leaves are often touched or pressed against the glass or wall. If the edges of the leaves are yellow or brown, this may be due to several reasons: waterlogging, insufficient watering, lack of light, too much light, too low air temperature, an excess of minerals, dry air or drafts. Other symptoms will help determine the true cause.
Small pale leaves and elongated stems: This happens in winter and early spring, after the plant was kept in low light at too high a temperature and excessively heavy watering. If possible, the ugly part of the plant is removed. If such symptoms appear during the growth period, then the reasons may be a lack of minerals or too poor lighting.
Leaves and stems rot: This is caused by a disease that occurs under poor conditions. Often the cause of the disease is waterlogging of the soil in winter or water getting on the leaves, especially if it remains overnight.
Torn edges and holes on the leaves: Most often appear when physically damaged by pets or people (sometimes even a simple touch on an unfolded sheet can damage it) or when attacked by pests.
Variegated leaves turn solid green: This is simply due to a lack of light. Remove all processes with uniformly colored leaves (if possible) and move the pot with the plant closer to the window.
A plant does not grow slowly or at all: In winter, this is normal for all plants, so do not force it to grow. In summer, the most likely cause of growth retardation is a lack of minerals, waterlogging of the soil, or insufficient lighting. If these reasons are excluded, then the pot may be cramped.
The plant does not bloom: Several reasons can lead to the fact that an adult plant does not bloom at the right time. The most likely causes associated with lighting are a lack of light or an unsuitable length of daylight for a plant. Other causes may be an overabundance of minerals, dry air, thrips, or transplantation (some plants bloom only in a tight pot).
Buds fall: The reasons why leaves fall can also cause buds or flowers to fall. This is most often caused by dry air, insufficient watering, lack of light, moving the pot with the plant to another place and pest damage.
Flowers quickly fade: As a rule, this is a result of insufficient watering, dry air, lack of light or too high air temperature.
Green plaque on a ceramic pot: A sure sign of problems associated with irrigation - occurs when waterlogged soil or poor drainage.
White peel on a ceramic pot: There are two likely reasons - use too hard water for irrigation or an excess of minerals.
Due to its tropical appearance, dracaena decorates the home interior and is widely used in the design of office premises. The plant is considered unpretentious and resistant to disease. But if you notice problems when growing this "palm", you need to respond urgently. First you need to accurately diagnose the disease, and then immediately proceed to the treatment of the disease.
Optimal home environment for growing dracaena
Dracaena is a beautiful tropical plant native to Africa, Asia and South America. Externally, the plant looks like a palm tree, but in fact it is not, but belongs to the asparagus family.
In nature, you can find multi-meter specimens with lignified trunks, long wide leaves of green color or with stripes of different shades.
In total, there are about 150 species of plants. The most popular are Dragon, Fragrant, Massangeana, Marginata (bordered), Deremskaya, Bent, Sandera (lucky bamboo), etc.
Varieties of dracaena - photo gallery
Dracaena Dracaena has variegated leaf color Dracaena Dragon has as sharp as teeth of a legendary animal, leaves Dracaena Unbent leaf tips are bent up It is believed that Dracaena Sandera, or lucky bamboo, attracts luck Dracaena Massangeana has a solid tree trunk 
Dracaena Marginata more than other species resembles a palm tree
Knowing the features of the growing conditions, it is easy to avoid the disease dracaena:
Dracaena diseases can be fungal, bacterial or viral.
We diagnose infectious diseases - table
| Symptom | Care Error | Disease |
| Round stains of brown hues appear on the stem and leaves, later fungal spores form in their place and the lesion site turns black. | Fungal spores got into the soil, excess moisture | Alternariosis |
| The tips of the leaves dry out, spots with black dots appear inside. | Excessive watering, cold room, heavy soil | Phyllosticosis |
| Oblong spots are beige, yellow with a red or brown edging, a green coating is possible, the leaves quickly turn yellow and dry. | Improper irrigation regimen, infection in the ground | Heterosporosis |
| Spots of various shapes, brown stripes, deformation of young shoots. | Weakened immunity due to improper conditions | Spotted wilt |
| Yellow stripes on the leaves and moist brown plaque (rot) at the tips, ulcers on the petioles and stems. | Heavy soil, waterlogged soil, high alkali content in the substrate | Bacteriosis |
Most dracenes are susceptible to fungal diseases. The most common of these are alternariosis and phylosticosis. As a rule, the disease occurs with high air humidity and excess moisture in the soil. Also, the cause of the disease is spores of fungi that could be in the soil or were introduced from the outside. For example, unsterilized garden equipment that has previously come into contact with an infected plant can become a carrier of an infectious disease.
If dracaena is transplanted into heavy garden soil, it is often and plentifully watered with running unsteady water, with a high degree of probability this will lead to a bacterial disease. Of all species of dracaena, Dracaena is most susceptible to bacteriosis.. This beauty is especially popular with amateur gardeners for the colorful leaves and the difference in their colors. However, these leaves are also often chosen by bacteria and fungus.
Professional gardeners note that dracaena is quite resistant to viral diseases. But still, rarely does a flower strike a spotted wilt. This virus can infect a plant in which immunity is already weakened. For example, immunity is reduced if the flower suffers for a long time from improper care or is damaged by insect pests. With a viral infection, dracaena stops growing and begins to fade.
Dracaena diseases - photo gallery
With phyllosticosis, the tips of the leaves dry. With alternariosis, the leaves can become brown stained. Spotted wilting leads to the fact that the plant can rot. Heterosporosis is determined by a green coating. With bacteriosis, the plant rots, the stem can become covered with ulcers.
Dracaena insects - table
| Symptoms | Pest | Treatment |
| On the inner side of the leaves there are dark (red) spots entangled in cobwebs; when the tick multiplies, white sticky plaque and white larvae appear on the leaves, trunk (similar to white sticks). | Wash sheets with hot soapy water (50 ° C), treat with acaricide. Repeat the procedure after 7 days | |
| The sheet is covered with a silver film, black dots, similar to scratches, form inside the sheet; a sticky coating appears, the sheet bends and dries out. | Thrips | Spray three times with an insecticide (Decis) with an interval of 1-2 weeks |
| Withered dry foliage, the inside is covered with sticky mucus, beige and brown swollen spots inside the leaf plate. | Shield | Wash leaves with soapy water and spray with an insecticide (Fitoverm or Intavir) |
| White plaque, similar to the accumulation of cotton shreds or white sticks, is located in large groups on the leaves and sinuses, the leaves dry and deform, covered with sticky colorless drops. | Mealybug | Remove insects with soapy water, treat twice with an insecticide with an interval of 2 weeks |
| Leaves turn yellow, curl, dry out, sticky coating, there are many white dots on the underside of the leaf and stems (aphid larvae can also be yellow, green or black, depending on the species). | Aphid | Spray with insecticides up to 3 times with an interval of 2 weeks |
Pests of indoor plants - photo gallery
The leaf is covered with a silver film with black dots inside. The mealybug looks like an accumulation of cotton swabs. Aphids look like white specks. The scabbard forms beige, brown swollen spots. The spider mite weaves a web
Other causes of plant problems are care errors
With improper care, the dracaena loses its decorative appearance: the plant grows poorly, discards leaves, the trunk becomes thin and bare, bends. Therefore, first of all, check, maybe your dracaena is not sick, but simply groomed.
Fungal infections most commonly affect Dracaena
The main problems in care and their consequences:
In most cases, the flower is exposed to infection by microbes or an attack of insects precisely with weakened immunity, which is due to improper care.
The onset of plant disease can be seen by the state of the leaf. It should be borne in mind that the process of drying and dying of the lower leaves of dracaena is a natural sign of growth. These leaves should be trimmed, and the trunk will eventually become stiff in that place.
In other cases, an unhealthy color of foliage signals problems of care.
We solve problems
The health problems of dracaena can be completely different. Let's try to figure out what needs to be done in each case. Let's start with the leaves.
If dark spots appear on the leaves, perhaps the plant suffers from excessive watering and stagnation of water in the pan. It is necessary to check the condition of the roots of the plant.
If the roots of the plant are completely rotted, the trunk of the dracaena becomes soft. This phenomenon can occur as a result of frequent and abundant watering of the soil. The plant is unlikely to be able to cure. The recommended temperature for healthy plant growth is from 16 to 25 ° C.
Rotting trunk of dracaena may be the result of frequent watering
If the trunk froze and became soft
Staying for a long time in drafts, outdoors or indoors, where the air temperature is below 18 degrees, dracaena freezes.
If the top is frozen, you need to cut it to a healthy trunk
At the same time, the stem of the plant may still remain alive (firm and firm to the touch), and the leaves become limp and lowered. They can’t be saved. If the top of the dracaena dropped, you need to rejuvenate the trunk:
- Cut off the crown with a clean knife until the beginning of the living (dense) tissue. Discard the top, and sprinkle the place of the cut on the trunk with crushed coal.
- Place the pot with the plant in a sunny place in a warm room (temperature 22–25 ° C). Eliminate the possibility of drafts.
- Pour the flower with a complex fertilizer diluted half as much as indicated in the instructions.
- Every week, spray the trunk and soil with a growth stimulator for plants.
- Observe the correct watering regime and wait for the dracaena to recover and give side kidneys.
If the tip is broken
What to do if the top of the dracaena is broken and a healthy long trunk remains:
If the trunk is too long or crooked
There are times when the dracaena is rapidly growing: the trunk grows in height quickly, but in itself is thin and not strong enough. This can happen if the dracaena is completely satisfied with the conditions of her detention, but she is standing in a poorly lit place. For example, the trunk quickly becomes thin and long at the dracaena of the Bordered and Deremsky.
There is no need to rush to say goodbye to your favorite plant, because one can be done from one in such situations. Dracaena can be performed anti-aging pruning and divide the trunk into several parts:
How to treat Dracaena from lesions - details
To combat fungal diseases, the flower must be carefully treated with a fungicide. It is also advisable to transplant the plant and replace the infected soil with sterilized soil.
The use of fungicides in fungal diseases
For treatment, it is recommended to use a solution of Fundazole in the proportions of 10 grams per 500 ml of water. Spray the infected tree once every 2 weeks, repeat the procedure three times. An alternative to Fundazole can be the treatment of a sick plant with Topaz or another drug that contains copper. All procedures are carried out strictly according to the instructions and in a well-ventilated area.
Fundazole is used for any fungal infections of plants.
For the prevention of fungal diseases of dracaena, it is necessary to avoid overmoistening of the soil, cool and dark rooms, contact with untreated garden tools.
Viral infections and bacterial diseases of dracaena are currently considered incurable. Unfortunately, a diseased plant must be destroyed so as not to infect other indoor flowers.
Transplantation into sterile soil
With fungal diseases or with the development of root rot from waterlogging or freezing of an earthen coma, the roots begin to rot in the plant, fungal spores multiply in the soil. To get rid of them, dracaena needs to be transplanted into sterile soil.
Procedure:
- Pull the flower out of the pot, completely free the root system from contaminated soil under running water.
- With a clean knife, cut off rotten roots (they will be soft to the touch) to healthy parts and treat with Fitosporin's solution (spread the paste according to the instructions).
- Place the finished substrate for dracaena in a heated oven for 10 minutes; for sterilization, the temperature regime should be set to 200 degrees. Cool.
- To restore and build up the root system, choose a smaller pot for the flower (3 cm in diameter and less than the previous height). Add a layer of expanded clay, sterilized soil and plant dracaena in the usual way.
How to use insecticides
Leaves of dracaena are attacked by a scab, a spider mite and other pests, especially if the flower is in a cool room with dry air.
Actellik - one of the most popular insecticides. The drug Aktara has a hazard class 3 (moderately dangerous for humans). Fitoverm is considered the least dangerous drug from pests.
As a rule, treatment with folk remedies helps in the fight against spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, and scabies and thrips are destroyed after treatment with insecticides.
Green soap helps in the care of dracaena
Resuscitation of Dying Dracaena
If the dracaena has been ignored for a long time and already has a dying appearance, it is still worth trying to save it.
If the bottom of the plant has rotted
With frequent and abundant watering, the roots rot in the dracaena, and later the trunk and the top rot. This situation can be called hopeless, the plant can only be thrown away. In rare cases, the leaves and part of the trunk may not have time to suffer, then you need to try to save the crown and root it like an apical stem:
- With a sharp sharp knife, cut off the apical shoot with part of the trunk (healthy and strong). The top should have a healthy appearance: the leaves are dense, and the trunk is solid. Make a cut perpendicular to the trunk, sprinkle the place of cut with crushed coal.
- Leave the resulting stalk in the air for two hours, so that the cut point is slightly dry.
- Place the handle in a transparent glass with settled water at room temperature and add a root stimulant, for example, Kornevin. Dilute half as much as indicated in the instructions.
- Put a glass with a handle on a sunny windowsill.
- As necessary (if it blooms), change the water in a glass, add.
- When the roots more than 5 cm appear, plant the dracaena in a small pot, deepening the cuttings with roots 2 cm into the sterilized soil.
If the top is dry
If the dracaena has not been watered for a long time, for example, during a long vacation, the plant can lose all the leaves from a lack of moisture, and the growth point itself can dry out.
Drying of the growth point is irreversible and requires trimming of dracaena
In this case, there is still a chance to save the plant. For this:
- First of all, the dracaena needs to arrange “bath procedures”. To wet the earthen lump well and evenly and revitalize the root system, place the flower pot in the basin for half an hour with standing warm water (water should be at room temperature).
- The dried-up top should be cut with a sharp knife and discarded, treat the cut site with activated powdered charcoal and wait for the side (sleeping) kidneys to wake up.
Think about the height at which to trim the trunk so that the plant is aesthetically pleasing.
- Spray the flower once a week with a plant growth stimulator, for example, Epin.
- Watering should be carried out moderate once a week, while twice a month to introduce complex fertilizers for dracaena.
- Put the pot with the plant 2 meters from the solar window so that the scattered rays of the sun fall on the plant.
- A month later, dracaena should appear new leaves from the side buds.
When caring for and rehabilitation of a plant, observe the following rules:
Dracaena has an original look that attracts attention against the background of the overall interior design.
Such a palm tree is quite popular among lovers of indoor plants and due to its simple care.
In numerous photos you can see beautiful trees with a luxurious crown, which have grown to unimaginable sizes. This happened due to the positive qualities of the plant.
At some point, the ends of the leaves of the dracaena dry. This can happen for several reasons.
It is important to determine the source of the problem, as this will help in the process of treatment and recovery.
In order not to lose the plant, immediate recovery measures must be taken.
If we take into account and prevent negative effects on the plant, then there will simply not be problems with the drying of the ends of the leaves.
Reasons why leaves fall and fall
Sometimes it happens that the dracaena drops leaves after they are fully or partially lowered.
There are only three reasons why the green part of the dracaena falls first down, and then completely falls.
Why dracaena throws off leaves:
- If the plant is more than 3 years old, then the leaves fall off due to old age.
- If the dracaena lowered the green part and the leaves have already begun to fall from below, then the flower is poorly watered.
- Low temperature for the plant is the main reason for leaf falling.
By the way the leaves went down and fell, you can determine the cause of “baldness”. The nature of the fall is pronounced in each of the cases, so it is almost impossible to make a mistake.
Attention! The Marginata dracaena variety most often undergoes “baldness” and leaf dropping.
From old age, the leaves fall off completely, being replaced by new units.
With poor watering, the leaves are in a lowered state for a long time, turn yellow and then fall off. From the cold there is a loss of still green leaves.
Brown spots
Often brown spots appear on the green crown of the dracaena, which catastrophically threaten the life of the flower.
Each problem stains its own brown color, which has particular distinguishing features.
Causes of brown spots:
Why the trunk blackens and dries: plant diseases
The following metamorphoses can occur as a result of the vital activity of such organisms with dracaena: the trunk dries, the leaves change color, the trunk becomes soft or empty.
In the fight against diseases and pests, it is important not to overdo it with treatment, as this can also negatively affect the condition of the flower.
Attention! Sometimes a flower affects several diseases at the same time, so an integrated approach to treatment may be required.
To treat the plant correctly, it is better to consult a specialized store.
How to help Dracaena
In order not to bring the flower to a terrible state, you need to properly care for it. Proper care is the best help for dracaena.
If any malfunctions occur, it is important to decide how to help the plant in any circumstances. There are several options for salvation, each of which corresponds to the situation.
What to do to save dracaena in some situations:
- For any type of disease, special sprays and “medications” will be needed.
- You can reanimate dracaena exclusively by transplanting into another container with new soil.
- To eradicate problems with spots on the greenery of the crown, it is worthwhile to establish a watering regime and find a suitable place in the room.
- Once every 2-3 years you need to transplant the plant into a new pot with suitable soil.
It is easy to save the plant if you follow the basic rules regarding transplantation and subsequent care. It is worthwhile to carefully monitor the indoor plant, so as not to provoke an exacerbation of the disease.
Useful video
- Although this is not a very fastidious indoor plant, it nevertheless requires the observance of individual care rules: the appropriate temperature regime, humidity level, and so on. A critical violation of these rules can provoke various plant ailments that are reflected not only in the appearance and which can lead to the death of dracaena. One of the common problems, the causes and solutions of which will be discussed below, is the omission of the leaves of the plant, which usually grow up.
The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall
The most likely include:
- Excessively cold temperature in the room (in particular, exacerbated by drafts). The optimum temperature for the growth and development of the plant is from 18 to 24 ° C above zero. Lower temperatures can cause the leaves to drop. In order to avoid this or to cope with the problem that has arisen, it is necessary to remove the plant from the place where it can be purged with drafts, and also to create the optimal temperature regime in the room.
- Excessive soil moisture. It can be triggered by frequent watering or an excessively wide pot, contributing to stagnation of moisture. This requires two basic rules. The first is to avoid frequent watering and allow the soil to dry between watering, the second - you need to choose a pot that is deep enough, but with a small diameter (for a plant up to 15 centimeters tall, the optimal diameter of the pot is 10 to 15 centimeters; the height of the pot is 12-15 centimeters) .
- Lack of moisture for the outer surface of the leaves. Dracaena receives part of the nutrition and hydration through the surface of the leaves. In this regard, once every two to three days it is required to spray the leaves from the spray with water at room temperature.
- Lack of oxygen saturation. First of all, it is important to maintain the saturation of the soil with oxygen. For this, drainage is created when planting / replanting dracaena. And it is also necessary to carry out periodic loosening of the soil.
- Excessive use of fertilizers. For growth and development dracaena it is advisable to use organic fertilizers in small quantities - peat, manure, humus and so on. Mineral fertilizers can be completely abandoned and used only if there are symptoms of a particular disease of dracaena, due to a lack of certain nutrients.
- Exposure to direct sunlight can also cause yellowing and drooping leaves. dracaena. The plant loves light, but does not tolerate direct sunlight, which can contribute to the degradation and death of the plant. Dracaena should be in a lit room, but not on the sunny side of the room.
Recently, my dracaena began to lower its leaves and, frankly, I panicked. This has never been observed for her, although she is not a very long partner with me, so I decided that I need to deal with this problem myself, and then help others who encounter similar difficulties.
It turned out that there are many reasons why dracaena leaves fall, and they can all be of a very different nature. For example, one of the possible options why the dracaena began to manifest itself so unhealthy may be moisture. Humid air, an unfavorable amount of watering, the placement of other plants, moss nearby - all this can affect the life of dracaena.
A decrease in air humidity also affects this plant. As it turned out, often dracaena leaves are lowered if it is located in close proximity to batteries or other devices that drain the air. An acceptable percentage of moisture in the room where the dracaena lives is 20%, so you need to slightly moisten the air if the dracaena is more yellow and yellow, or, conversely, reduce the amount of moisture if the dracaena blackens, marks out and also leaves the leaves down.
Drafts plus humidity - another enemy dracaena. It can not be placed in intermediate rooms, in corridors, near windows, where a draft is constantly walking. Firstly, the drafts immediately make the dracaena hurt, no matter in what condition it is, just like what happens to a person when he has a cold. They just need to be eliminated or the dracaena moved to another place to neutralize this problem.
Using the wrong fertilizers their insufficient, excessive quantity is the next point that affects the fact that dracaena lowered leaves. What to do in this case? Deal with the amount of fertilizer that you have applied. An insufficient amount requires one more, control, top dressing, excessive - will affect somewhat worse and there will be more difficulties. You will have to transplant the plant, changing the soil mixture, using a completely new pot at the same time, then you will have to restore the dracaena health from the basic stage, maybe even refresh it with pruning so that it starts to recover more intensively and cope with a smaller volume of crown than it would have to if it were former condition.
Using the wrong fertilizer affects the dracaena much worse than you might think - it's like drinking an alcoholic drink instead of life-giving water when you are strictly forbidden. Instant effect: dracaena begins to wither before our eyes, leaves fall, the earth in the pot starts to react quite strangely, and the old, cheerful and beautiful dracaena perishes on your hands. In this case, my advice is always one, especially for beginning gardeners: always learn the rules for caring for dracaena. Pay attention to the fertilizer item, check what soil composition you purchased or made on your own at home - what is missing in it, and what elements are too much, and only then choose the appropriate fertilizer, but in no case take it at random or for your reasoning - in the case of feeding dracaena, there can be no improvisation.
Dracaena lowers the leaves, all sleek some. How to raise them?)
If everything is all right with the roots, arrange a hot shower for the dracaena! So that the hand would tolerate the temperature of the water, the water should not be warm, nor boiling water, but hot enough. Cover the ground, wrap the pot with a bag, so as not to pour and redeem the foliage, within a minute, you can slightly less.
maybe she is standing in a too sunny place, maybe there is not enough water for her (then you need to spray on the leaves). and the most likely option is to transfer it to a larger pot ..
In mine it happens when I forget to water or the sun falls on the leaves.
And still need to be fed liquid fertilizer for palm trees.
Watering should be done on time and fertilizer should be applied at least once every 2 weeks.
It stands in the sun, maybe I also had this and the leaves turned yellow, put it in the shade and now, it feels great.
Try changing the location, if she likes it, she picks up the leaves within 5 minutes. Still, she can lower them from heavy watering. So do not try to spray better.
indoor-plants-tips.ru
Why did dracaena drop leaves?
Dracaena their leaves leaves seldom. If this happened, it means they did not take good care of the plant, or for a long time they were not at home.
It should be noted that dracaena very sensitive to drafts. If put on a draft, then not only the leaves will lower.
Also, you can not put a flower in bright direct sunlight.
Unnecessary plant transfusion.
Moderate watering will save the dracaena from root decay.
More often the plant must be sprayed. She likes this dracaena, and the leaves will stand like ears in a hare in the cold.
The land in which the dracaena is transplanted or planted should not be heavy. It should be well filled with oxygen. It is possible, and it is necessary to make drainage on 1/3 of the subboil.
The soil often needs to be loosened.
Dracaena will live longer.
Dracaena, although an unpretentious houseplant, but still to be beautiful and lush (the leaves looked up), you need to properly care for it. The first signs that the dracaena lacks care are dropping leaves, the leaves turn yellow and fall off too often.
Dracaena does not like to be watered too often. The earthen lump should dry before the next watering. Young plants need to be replanted every year and at the same time increase the size of the pot by 1-2 fingers so that the roots are not crowded.
Perhaps the cause of sunken leaves is a lack of nutrients. It is necessary to feed the plant at least 1 time per month (or 1 time in 2 weeks). I use vermicompost liquid for feeding.
Dracaena also loves the presence of oxygen at the roots. Therefore, you need to periodically loosen the soil on the surface.
In the summer, spraying is beneficial, but only this should be done in the evening, when the sun is not so strong (if you say your plant is on the balcony).
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Dracaena - home care
Dracaena is a very popular houseplant with a large species and varietal variety. There are species that grow only in the wild, there are species that can survive only in greenhouse conditions, and there are indoor options that are unpretentious and do not require special attention. In general, the most common indoor dracaena personal care requires the most minimal.
Sometimes people subject to superstitions may wonder whether it is possible to keep a dracaena at home, to look for signs related to its room contents. Usually the harm of dracen is contrived and is nothing more than a prejudice. There are no restrictions on its content, except for the most obvious ones - the presence of allergies in any household. In all other respects, this flower will only benefit.
Dracaena is a flower with longevity. Her lifespan when grown indoors can be either five or fifteen years, and depends on the quality of care. How to care for dracaena at home so that she feels well and lives as long as possible? Follow these simple guidelines.
Lighting
Dracaena is a fairly photophilous plant, so you can place it on the eastern and western windowsills. The south side is also acceptable, but try to protect the plant from direct sunlight. In the midst of summer afternoon, it is better to clean it at partial shade. If the opportunity allows, provide the plant with diffused light - this will be the most ideal option.
If the lighting is insufficient, the leaves of the dracaena will begin to fade. A deep shadow will have a very detrimental effect: the leaves will quickly fade and die.
If the lighting is artificial, then this is also suitable for the plant, it is quite capable of growing and developing quite well.
Temperature
The plant prefers moderate temperature in the summer and cooler in the winter, but does not tolerate cold. Choose a warm place for him in the fresh air in summer - a balcony facing east or west is perfect. Remember the danger of direct sunlight. In the spring and summer, the optimum temperature is 20-25 degrees. In winter, Dracaena is suitable for a temperature regime of 12-15 degrees, but not lower, otherwise the plant will freeze and die quickly. Also, dracaena should be protected from drafts and sudden changes in temperature.
Watering and humidity
The plant is quite hygroscopic, so watering should be plentiful, but systematic. It is always better to slightly dry the plant than pour and rot it.
The intensity of irrigation depends on the location of the flower, the volume of the pot, soil composition and season. In summer, watering of dracene should be provided at least a couple of times a week, while daily spraying with water at a temperature a couple of degrees higher than room temperature.
In winter, when the air temperature drops to 12-15 degrees, watering should be reduced to once a week. Dracaena “falls asleep” during this period. An exception is when it is located close to a radiator. In this case, it is not necessary to reduce watering, nor the number of sprayings, since watering a dracaena at high air temperature should often be plentiful.
Regardless of the time of year, water should not be allowed to stagnate in a pot - the plant does not tolerate such an attitude. But you should not let the soil dry out much even in winter. As soon as the surface layer of soil dries up by three or better, even two centimeters (no more), then it is time to water the flower. Before watering, loosen the surface soil layer, this will improve its air permeability.
Spray leaves both on the inside and the outside, but always make sure that water does not accumulate, does not stagnate at the junction of the leaf with the stem - this can cause decay. Periodically, you can wipe the dracaena with a damp cloth, from time to time arrange a full-fledged warm shower, which will wash all the dust and dirt accumulated on the leaves, and also refresh the plant.
It is better to use filtered water for irrigation, but if this is not possible, then the tap water is defended for at least twelve hours, for better purification it is also worth boiling.
During the period of intensive growth (that is, from the beginning of April to the beginning of September), dracaena is fed with fertilizers. They do this using special mineral top dressings; their frequency is usually indicated in the instructions for use. This is usually every couple of weeks. Fertilizers must be used specialized, complex, which are sold in flower shops and are intended for indoor plants. Variegated varieties are best fed with special fertilizers designed specifically for variegated plants.
Timely transplantation is another guarantee of the longevity of your room dracaena. Since this plant has a strongly growing root system, it quickly becomes crowded in a pot. The plant just brought home from the store also always needs to be moved to a new pot, but this is recommended not immediately, but a month after purchase.
It is possible to roughly calculate whether a dracaena needs a transplant according to the following parameters: for example, if a plant is about half a meter tall, then it needs a pot of at least 20 cm in diameter. By comparing this proportion, you determine whether it is time for the plant to move to a new container. You can also proceed from approximate data that the transplant should be done every two or three years - it is during this time that the roots manage to grow well. But it is better to proceed not from generalized data, but to consider each case and each variety separately, since the dracaena must be transplanted on time, not allowing excessive root growth.
“Moving” is better to start in the spring, during the period of the most intensive growth, so the plant will take root better. When transplanting, try not to damage the root system of the plant. Prepare the drainage system in advance: pour, for example, expanded clay or pebbles on the bottom of the pot. The drainage system means a lot to dracaena, since its root system is superficial.
An ideal transplant scheme, with good care and rapid growth, implies an annual transplant into a pot that will be slightly larger than the old one. You cannot take a pot for dracaena “for growth”; there is a risk that this will lead to the death of the plant. But it is not worth transplanting a sufficiently old dracaena so often, in which case it will be enough just to periodically replace the surface layer of the soil with fresh soil containing a lot of nutrients.
You can buy ready-made soil for dracaena, or you can mix it yourself. Usually, turf and leafy soil with peat, sand and humus are mixed in equal parts.
This procedure has rather a decorative background, since it is not required to cut the dracaena for its own benefit. Trimming the stem stimulates the development of lateral buds and starts the branching process. This is especially true for such a species as dracaena edged: as it grows, the lower, older leaves die off, over time, all the foliage concentrates on the top. The remaining bare trunk doesn’t look very beautiful, which is why cut the dracaena to obtain side shoots.
By the way, in addition to the decorative function, pruning a dracaena indoor flower is its reproduction using cuttings. The mother plant will branch, and the new top-dracaena or stalk will give life to a new full-fledged flower.
The best time for pruning is the same as for transplanting, spring or early summer. The plant should already be old enough, at least thirty centimeters in height. The cut should be five centimeters below the tallest and youngest leaves.
When trimming, use a well-sharpened knife, charcoal or activated carbon; you can also stock up with Zircon. Cut the stem, sprinkle the place of cut with charcoal, and then treat with “Zircon”. Cropped cuttings can be used for propagation, namely, rooting in water.
Dracaena Care: Species Differences
Indoor flower Dracaena species and varieties can be very different. In general, care for indoor dracaenas does not differ much depending on their species and variety. But there are a few points that a grower should know.
- Dracaena marginata (it is also fringed dracaena) is the most common and most unpretentious species of all domestic dracaena. Caring for her is no different from what was described above.
- The Godzef dracaens and Dragon, unlike all other varieties, calmly carry dry air.
- Fragrant dracaena, or fragrance, tolerates cold well. At a temperature of only +10, it can even bloom, although it does this very rarely in room conditions, despite the temperature regime created for it. She is also able to be quiet in the summer in the fresh air. For the rest of the dracaena, it is preferable to still be kept in the room and not to leave its limits.
- Dracaena bent, or reflex, is the most capricious and demanding variety. It is usually found only in greenhouses, because it requires constant maintenance of a certain temperature, humidity and lighting.
- Dracaena sander, that famous lucky bamboo, is unpretentious so that it can grow even just in the water. It does not require planting in the ground, but it is advisable to add mineral fertilizers to the water, since without them leaves will turn yellow at the dracaena. In this case, exclusively distilled water should be used, in extreme cases filtered. Using tap water can also lead to yellowing of the foliage.
You can read more about Dracaena by reading the article
Diseases and Pests
Like all indoor plants, dracaena has its own problem and vulnerabilities, diseases and its pests. The most common ones are discussed below.
Scabies, thrips, spider mites - these are the main pests that affect dracaena.
With thrips on the leaves, bright spots and silver stains appear. In this case, you can treat the leaves with a soap solution, leaving it for a day, and then rinse. If this measure did not help, then it is necessary to carry out the treatment of dracaena with insecticides.
The spider mite infects the leaves, leads to their yellowing, drying and death. A characteristic symptom of this disease is the presence of a web on the plant. In such a case, it is recommended to wipe the dracaena with a soapy solution and arrange a warm shower for it. If the measures taken do not help, it must be sprayed with Fufan or Fitover. The spider mite starts up with increased air dryness, and therefore one of the preventive measures of the disease is its timely hydration and periodic spraying of the plant with water.
If the leaves turn yellow and dry
Not always, when leaves turn yellow on the flower of a dracaena, this is due to the defeat of its pests. Perhaps the reason is insufficient care. Yellowing of the leaves occurs as a result of dry air, with insufficient watering and lack of fertilizer. Drying and curled leaves appear if the plant is too cold.
The house palm of dracaena Marginata, the lucky bamboo of Sander, the blooming Fragrance - all these varieties of dracaena require a certain care, and this care has minimal differences depending on the species. Dracaena can be called a very unpretentious houseplant, because it does not require so much attention. Good illumination, sufficient humidity, timely transplantation - these are the requirements that are inherent in almost every indoor plant. So, if you decide to make yourself a dracaena, do not be afraid of the difficulties with her leaving, since there are no difficulties as such.
Dracaena - diseases and treatment with photo
Dracaena is a fairly unpretentious plant for home growing. However, receiving improper care, it loses its decorative appearance. Dracaena lowered the leaves, the tips of the leaves dry on her. What to do in such cases? So, experts consider the main problems and diseases of dracaena, their treatment with a photo.
Why do dracaena dry and yellow tips of leaves? Why did dracaena drop leaves? Reasons, treatment, photo
Typical diseases of dracaena and their effective treatment with an explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.
Why do dracaena drop leaves? Causes may be the following: the plant goes through a period of acclimatization after purchase, a transplant was carried out with soil replacement, which violated the integrity of the root system, and the irrigation mode was incorrect.
Only a purchased plant must undergo a period of acclimatization under the new conditions. Dracaena is no exception. The level of illumination in the new room, humidity and air temperature - all this can affect the well-being of the flower. No need to worry if dracaena is only purchased and it has lowered leaves. For prevention, you need to inspect the plant carefully. If there are no pests on it, the root system is in order, the trunk does not rot - there is no need to take drastic measures. Experts recommend not replanting the flower within 1 month after purchase. After this period, transplant by transshipment and strictly follow the rules for caring for dracaena. As practice shows, all dracaena lower the leaves after the purchase. This is a normal occurrence. In a healthy flower, only the crown, that is, young leaves, will look up.
Dracaena dropped leaves immediately after transplantation. This indicates a violation of the root system of the flower, namely, very thin roots that form a spider web at the bottom of the pot. They are involved in plant nutrition and provide the plant with water. It is not recommended to transplant dracaena in a complete replacement of the soil. She is more likely to transship in a larger pot. Thus, the root system will not be injured.
However, if the transplant has already been carried out and the dracaena has lowered the leaves, while its lower leaves may turn yellow intensively, the following steps must be performed: spray the flower with a cyclone (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water) and place it under the greenhouse or a spacious cap. Leaves should not touch the walls of the greenhouse. At the same time, watering is significantly reduced. Before the next watering, the ground in the pot should completely dry (you can 1 time in 2-3 weeks). On the contrary, it is necessary to spray the flower very often with ordinary water in order to maintain high humidity under the greenhouse. The number of sprayings depends on the room temperature. The colder the less often. Cycron can only be used once a week. At the first watering, the cyclone must be added to the water for irrigation. This stimulates the growth of the root system. After a transplant with a violation of the root system, dracaena lacks moisture. At the same time, intensive watering will lead to decay of the root system. The plant will replenish the lack of moisture through the crown. That is why in a greenhouse they maintain high humidity.
Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Reason: Wrong watering mode. In the first case, the amount of moisture is simply not enough for the plant to maintain normal leaf turgor. In the second - there is too much moisture, which led to the decay of the root system. Through damaged roots, the plant also does not receive enough moisture. Increasing the number of irrigations will not solve the problem.
If dracaena lowered leaves due to lack of moisture, what should I do? It is necessary to place the flower under the greenhouse and conduct regular spraying. It is impossible to sharply increase the amount of watering, as this will harm the roots. Keep the plant under the greenhouse for 3-5 days. Watering the flower should be plentiful, but only after the earth coma is completely dry. Water from the pan must be removed.
Dracaena gets an excess of moisture. As a result, the root system does not cope with an excess of fluid and begins to rot. Damaged roots no longer absorb moisture from the ground, and therefore dracaena lowers the leaves. What to do? First of all, normalize watering. Next, you need to carefully, without violating the integrity of the root system, remove the dracaena from the pot by the trunk. Inspect the roots. If the root system is light yellow or white, but not brown, it is healthy. The plant is returned back to the pot and reduce watering. Watering should be plentiful, but only after the soil has completely dried in a pot.
If the dracaena lowered the leaves and its roots are soaked, flabby and have an unhealthy shade, this indicates rotting. Damaged roots are removed. The plant is transplanted into a new, special, slightly moist soil. Dracaena is placed under a greenhouse. Watering is minimized, and spraying, on the contrary, is speeded up. Can be added to spray water for cyclone. The plant is removed from the greenhouse when it begins to drive out new leaves.
Why do dracaena dry tips of leaves? Reasons: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime is violated, heavy soil.
Dracaena is a photophilous flower, and therefore its tips of the leaves very often turn yellow due to a lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown under indoor conditions, the ends of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination with an energy-saving lamp up to 12 hours. The flower must be placed at the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows do not fit the flower.
You noticed that the dracaena looks bad, the tips of its leaves are drying. What to do in such cases? It is necessary to pay attention to the watering mode. Perhaps the plant is waterlogged. As a result, its root system rots, leaves do not get enough moisture through diseased roots, and therefore their tips dry. Dracaena is watered only after the soil has completely dried in a pot. Watering in this case is carried out abundant, so that the water comes out into the pan through the drainage holes. Water is immediately removed from the pan. Otherwise, the bottom of the pot will not dry out, the roots will rot. You can not put a pot of dracaena on wet expanded clay. To check the condition of the root system, the plant is carefully removed from the pot. Healthy roots will be light. Regular spraying will help the flower. it is possible to add cyclone or epin to water for spraying once a week.
Dracaena dry the tips of the leaves, if the room is low humidity. To do this, frequent spraying of the flower is carried out, a humidifier is placed next to it. During the heating season, do not place the plant next to heating appliances.
Dracaena does not grow, new leaves grow deformed, stems are thinned and extended. Reason: the plant lacks sunlight. Perhaps the flower is in the back of the room where the light does not penetrate, or the daylight hours are shortened due to the onset of autumn-winter. Experts recommend placing dracaena near windows on the south or southeast side of the house, but with mandatory shading from midday heat. To diffuse direct sunlight on the window, just hang a transparent curtain. In autumn and winter, it is recommended to illuminate the dracaena with an artificial light lamp (fluorescent or special phytolamp). In total, the duration of daylight hours for the successful development of leaflets should be 12-14 hours.
With the onset of autumn-winter (the period from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dracaena dormancy period, the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, reduce the temperature of the plant (up to +17. +18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and feeding are not carried out. During the resting period, the dracaena slows its growth, and therefore, in conditions of insufficient illumination, it does not drive out new, deformed leaves, its branches do not thin out.
Why does dracaena turn yellow and what to do?
Most types of room dracaena are very unpretentious in care: they do not need to be watered or sprayed every day, there is no need to put in bright sunlight and maintain a constant temperature level in the room. Spending just a few minutes a week on caring for a plant, you can get a very beautiful plant that will delight you and your loved ones with your look.
However, even with proper and regular care, the flower may begin to turn yellow, dry and lose leaves. Before fighting the investigation, it is necessary to determine the cause of the deterioration of its condition.
Why do dracaena leaves turn yellow:
What to do: so that the plant does not lose its decorative effect, the ends of the dying leaves are cut to a healthy tissue. Even the third and the smallest part of the cut sheet will still work on the flower, so you do not need to delete the entire sheet at once.
What to do: dealing with it is easy and simple! The leaves will no longer turn yellow and dry if they are regularly sprayed with water or increase the humidity in the room using a humidifier.
What to do: if you water the flower often enough and do not let the earthen coma dry out, then you need to take urgent measures to save the plant. The flower must be removed from the pot, dried roots, cut off those on which there is rot and transplanted into new soil.
What to do: to avoid this, it is necessary to observe the regime of watering the plant: water it only when the earthen lump in the pot dries out completely, but do not delay it with watering.
What to do: rearrange the flower pot so that direct sunlight does not fall on it.
- Draft and low temperature. The optimum room temperature for the flower is 18-25 degrees, lowering the temperature below 16 degrees can be detrimental to dracaena. As well as cold drafts: they most often cause a deterioration in the health and appearance of the plant in the cold season.
What to do: if the pot is standing on the window or somewhere in the aisle, make sure that there is no draft and the temperature on the windowsill is not 18 degrees. Remember that even plastic windows can be blown out in strong winds. It is especially important to monitor this in the cold season, when cold air from the street can freeze the plant. - Diseases and pests: if you constantly care for a flower, observe all the conditions for caring for it, but the leaves still begin to turn yellow, then a possible cause of this may be some kind of disease or pest.
What to do: try to treat the plant with a special drug (if you don’t know which one to use, go to the flower shop, describe the symptoms of the disease, and the sellers will tell you which drug is best used). Even once, sometimes it can be enough to make your plant healthy again. - Aloe leaves are drying Do aloe vera dry the edges and ends of leaves, the lower ones have already died, how to treat a flower? Aloe, or agave, is a frequent guest in our apartments. This is one of the most unpretentious for growing plants, caring for it is quite simple, if you follow a few rules. Homeland of Aloe B [...]
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Dracaena leaves turn yellow. Care. Transfer*
# 1 Nastya
# 2 Natali
I know. that the lower ones should die off every two years, but mine all this happens somehow abruptly: about 6 pieces have already fallen off in the last month, and at least one more is going to (and she has only three tops) Is this normal?
Nastya, two years is the average life span of a dracaena leaf. And "leaf fall" she usually twice a year, in spring and autumn. This is not a gradual process, but rather a sharp one - many leaves turn yellow and dry at once. Moreover, the dates of leaf fall may shift depending on the weather. Mine this spring too late, leaf fall is just ending (usually this happens in April).
Six dead leaves on three trunks - this, believe me, is very small. The older the dracaena, the more leaves will fly from it. And you shouldn’t be afraid of it. Although I sometimes feel uneasy, I begin to twitch - do I fill it? 🙂
If the roots do not rot, then there is no reason for concern.
# 3 sem
# 4 Lena
My drake (like Kanzi) after we got it started having problems with leaflets. The lower leaves dry out the tips (until black), but a week ago I noticed light yellow spots on the same leaves.
Light yellow spots can also appear from an overabundance of light (in any case, in marginata). But in principle - yes, it seems that she was frozen (yukiyas are more frost-resistant). The medicine is epin, or analogues.
# 5 sem
# 6 Lena
And with leaves what to do then?
Do not trim - they themselves will disappear. She’s been ill now, is getting rid of herself and will go on growing. It's good that spring is in the yard.
# 7 GalGa
The lower leaves dry out the tips (until black), but a week ago I noticed light yellow spots on the same leaves.
i won’t say anything about yellow spots, but I'm sure I'm black from the fact that I froze. Recently, she brought the same dracaena from Natasha and did not save it. I carefully trimmed all the black ends with scissors, leaving a border of no more than 1 mm. The lower leaves of 2 pcs had to be completely removed. Now the bush on a small leg turned out. What is there to do. If you do not want to apply with a bush, you can overroot when it dawns. I have just one of the tops, reassigned by Natasha, from her old dracaena. The plant hurt for about 2 weeks after moving. Then the neoplasm of the spots stopped. Now new leaves, which were not visible, have grown by half a centimeter.
# 8 Natali
# 9 standby_md
# 10 Xu
on them like that. um .. like specks (2-3 mm in diameter) faded if you look at the light from the bottom of the sheet. If you look at them from the outside of the leaf, they are like tubercles. The leaf itself is dark green, but these tubercles are more faded. What is this? Is it a false scab? Or should it be for dracen?
I don’t know if dracenes have such things
You start digging into a book about illnesses - it blows your head
Found: spots - convex, first pale green (then reddish-brown) - signs of poor lighting with excessive watering
or! watering with cold water, sunburn.
Maybe while being transported (or in the store) the conditions were inappropriate?
Infectious diseases and pests with almost the same symptoms.
IMHO, you just need to watch these spots - whether they will increase, whether they appear on new leaflets. You can think of anything.
# 11 Lena
Girls, and I, too, bought myself a drake.
# 12 sem
# 13 standby_md
Transplant, definitely! In peat, probably? They torment them all in peat. Roots - there are, but I don’t know what they suddenly decide to grow from. There should definitely not be any bulges! I do not know hto / what it is, but. A lot of leaves hurt?
The roots of her already stuck from the earth stick out somewhere about 5 cm + small, very thin - also above the ground. Earth - it looks like peat. So how do I transplant her? Rinse the earth completely off the roots or is it enough to top it up? I read that they do not tolerate a transplant.
Spots are not on all the leaves, but only on some. I specially donated one sheet to see what it was. I fingered it with my fingernail, and there simply a plate of the sheet came off, as if hollow inside. In short, I do not know what it is. I will watch the spots. But every fireman I have already processed it with agravertine.
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