Build a bath from the logs do it yourself. How to build a bath from a chopped log: step-by-step instructions. Foundation for the bobban

The use of a chopped log in the construction of the bath is quite justified by high costs. Since the quality of such structure is significantly higher than the use of pinned materials. About how to build a bath from a log, consider further.

Chopped log: features and advantages

The most popular material used in the construction of a bath is a tree. It is wooden buildings that are distinguished by quality, durability, and the pastime in such a bath becomes useful for health.

The use of wood allows you to maintain the necessary microclimate of the room, the walls in such a bath are capable of absorbing moisture under certain conditions and at the right time to give it.

The duration of the use and quality of the constructed bath is directly dependent on the type of materials used in the process of its structure and on their quality. With wood harvesting, certain rules should be followed, which will look at:

1. It is better to harvest the tree in the period from December to March a month.

2. After the tree is cut down, you should wait at least a month to its further processing.

3. Before storing the forest, all logs are reputable from the bark, only small places remain at the end sites, by 15-20 cm, with the bark, preventing their cracking.

4. Stored logs stacks. It is important to observe the ventilation gap between them, the size of 50 mm.

5. All stacks are hidden by slate, which will save them from moisture.

If you adhere to all the conditions of wood harvesting, then such a bath will serve its owners at least 50 years.

The logs are round materials that are formed after spillings of trees that are cleaned of branches and trunks.

Among the benefits of crushed logs are distinguished:

little creak and cracking;
lower level of moisture absorption;
higher stability before biological effects in the form of insects, fungus or mold;
the duration of operation that does not require special care;
ease and simplicity assembly;
the presence of special groove components;
a variety of angular wrists in the form of a paw, a Russian bowl, an exclusive triple word;
variety of styles for the battery;
healthy room microclimate;
wide spectrum of log diameters.

Among the shortcomings of the chilled logs are noted:

higher cost of performing work on the preparation of material;
difference of diameters at different ends of the cut;
the quality of work is directly depends on the experience of specialists who are performed, with poor-quality installation, the appearance of the construction is strongly suffering.

Baths of chopped logs - Characteristics

Baths of chopped logs remain popular not one dozen and even hundreds of years. This is determined by the availability of materials used in the process of their structure and the ease of its processing.

The use of wood in construction has such advantages:

first of all, the ability of wooden walls to "breathe" - due to this, it is easy to breathe in the bath, and there is fresh air and a healthy atmosphere in the room;
low thermal conductivity provides excellent heat retention in the bath, even in winter, which is very important for the adoption of bath procedures;
the manufacture of walls in a bath beam allows in the summer to avoid their overheating, as the tree controls the temperature level in the room;
the cost is another advantage, as the wooden bath does not require the construction of an expensive foundation, and the tree is much cheaper than brick or concrete.

The standard appearance of a bath built from a chopped log has one floor. Although a variant of the construction of a two-story or attic bath is possible. The minimum number of rooms in the bath is three: a washing room, a steam room and a rest room.

In construction, the baths use different species of trees, but the lower part of the bath, which comes into contact with the foundation, is traditionally performed from larch, since it is this material that has the highest quality characteristics. In addition, the use of coniferous trees, pines, ate that fill the room with a special aroma, cleansing and healthy human body.

For the furnace, it is better to give preference to birch. In the construction of the bath, the main thing is to choose the right tree of the tree. Since the final result of the work depends on the quality of the material.

An important point is the construction of the supporting structures of the building. They appear in the form of one wooden wall, which is based on longitudinally laid logs or crowns.

Chopped baths from logs photo:

The crown is a rectangular design, which consists of bars laid in perpendicular direction.

The final stage of the work - the cutting of the bath, first produce work on the cutting of the tree in the forest or on the field. Next, the log house is transported to the object of construction and canopy. After the year after installation and complete drying, the internal and outer decoration of the cut is performed.

Building Ban from Log: Step-by-step instructions

The procedure for the construction of a bath with the use of crushed logs consists of several stages, namely:

1. Making projects BAT from a chopped log.

2. Assembly and log houses used in the construction process.

3. Preparation and construction of the foundation.

4. Construction of walls in the bath.

5. Equipment roofing structure.

6. Installation of the stove.

7. Conducting interior finishing works.

8. Installation of chimney.

9. Works on the insulation of floors and the ceiling.

10. Installation of shelves indoors.

The first stage involves the work on the design of the bath. Project development is carried out in relation to all the requirements of the owners. A variant of self-development project, the finished purchase of a project or individual development of the project by specialists, who will take into account all the individual climatic and geological characteristics of the locality and will make an optimal version of the Bani project.

The bath begins to build from the definition of its dimensions, if we consider the standard sizes of a church, which consists of three rooms, then its area will be about 60 square meters.

An important factor is the height of the room in which the shelves will be located, and which should be comfortable for the location of a certain number of people.

Please note that too large bath sizes will help improve the heat loss and the bath heating will need to spend a lot of fuel. Therefore, the minimum room dimensions should be chosen, which must be convenient for the location of people in the bath.

The standard bath consists of a pre-born room, in which they are changed, and the steam rooms in which they wash and soar. Possible option equipment for recreation.

For more rational use of space, the door from the steam room should go to the vestibule.

To improve the strength of the structure, it should be properly picking up and equip the foundation. The depth of its laying is determined by the depth of the soil freezing, to which at least 100 mm is added.

It is important to take into account the correct temperature distribution in the bath. The air temperature in the steam is from 51 to 57 degrees, in a washing room - 35-40 degrees, and in the locker room, at least 22 degrees.

An important factor is the correct location and installation of shelves. They should not be near the stove, since there is a risk of burning burns from too hot steam.

Therefore, it is preferable to place the shelves near the deaf walls. Shelves should be located in two or three tiers, depending on the height of the ceiling.

Most often in the bath the stoves of the Kamenka, which are in the corner section of the room. Such a location allows you to ensure optimal heating at once all rooms. A reservoir is installed in the inner part of the furnace, in which water heats up. The principle of operation of such a furnace is to apply the special kind of stones, which, when heated, is rare and distinguished steam in contact with water. The firewood is used as a fuel for the Kamenka furnace, which is drowned throughout the long time.

The roof arrangement is another important question, since the roof must have a minimum thermal conductivity. If the bath is a separate building, then a two-tie roof is the most popular option. With the arrangement of the bath in the form of an extension, rationally use single-sided roofing types.

The angle of inclination of the two-tie roof ranges from 18 to 44 degrees, and a single one - from twenty to thirty degrees. The wooden bath requires the presence of a heavy roof, as it should be very warm to prevent heat loss. Norwegian earth roofs are quite popular, on the surface of which there is soil and plants in the form of a lawn.

For the construction of the bath will be required at least two months. But, keep in mind that the bath would light up quality, it should be started to start it no earlier than a year after its construction. Since it is at the expiration of this period of time takes place the first stage of shrinkage of the bath. The final shrinkage will occur after four or five years, depending on the type of wood.

The main stage of the construction of the bath is insulation of gender and ceiling. To insulate the ceiling in a bath, from a chopped log, it will be necessary to navigate the slings, throughout the ceiling, then the ceiling of the tree is installed, then the cacopate is installed to prevent heat loss.

In addition, you should take care of the right arrangement of floors and waterproof. When building a floor in a room for washing and wage, one should worry about ensuring the normal flow and on the removal of water into the sewer system. Therefore, the floor must have an inclined surface, for its manufacture, only moisture-repellent materials are used, in the form of concrete, clay.

The bias should be directed to the pit, which is equipped with a water shutter connecting the water-feling pipe and the sewer.

Next, the floor is coated with wooden materials. For the product of this process, the installation of lags is required, which are mounted on a pre-waterproof surface with support pillars. Between the boards, it is mandatory a gap in a minimum of 0.5 cm, since the tree swells, and when dried, it decreases in the amount. In addition, you should worry about removing the longitudinal chamfer from the boards, thus their upper part becomes a little more, lower.

If a solid floor is constructed, then the premium is required for its arrangement directly indoors. For its coverage, a special lattice is installed. Ventilation riser is used for sewage equipment. To improve its arrangement, it is necessary to establish an asbestos-cement or metal pipe, the minimum diameter of which is 10 cm. A cap or a deflector is installed on its upper sector.

Bannog's Bath Building Technology

After construction, the bath requires laying the interventory sealer between the logs. Thus, the appearance of the gaps through which heat loss is occurred.

A moss or panel is used as a seal, but this method is less popular due to the complexity of the work and high-cost material. Modern house-building involves the use of flanctin, which is easy to install, as it is made in the form of a roll.

The seam closeing procedure is called a pantry, it requires the same interventic sealer or linen rope - improving the appearance of the building.

With the help of cacopa, the thermal insulation of the entire building is significantly improved. But, carrying out this process, you should repeat after the expiration of the building shrinkage, that is, after the five years of its operation.

An important issue is the problem of docking logs, since the crushed materials have a non-denial diameter and for from dusting, special skills are required.

The standard log size is 600 cm. If the wall of the building is longer, then they are joined with each other in the place of passage. Thus, the butt plots become invisible. In the absence of a perpendicular wall, an ovelast, hiding joints, is equipped at the shock area.

In the absence of opportunity in the construction of a liar, the joints form in a checker order for more reliable log fixation.

The manufacture of a bath of wood has another unpleasant consequence, such as a log cracking. Since the tree is a living organism, within which moisture is located, then after some processing it dries and loses its strength. Since the moisture begins to evaporate from the central part of the logs, it is precisely the largest load leading to cracking. In order to avoid the appearance of this process, it is required to make a deformation destination, which will help bring moisture without consequences for the log.

In addition, there is a danger of a synovation or darkening of the tree. This procedure occurs due to a decrease in wood quality under the influence of moisture, the sun, temperature drops and other factors. Especially sensitive logs to molds or molds, which are in the air and through it fall on the surface. The best conditions for breeding the fungus is air temperature +22 and humidity of more than 90%, so in the bath it is recommended to equip good ventilation, which allows preventing this process.

In addition, it is necessary to conduct periodic processing of wood using antiseptic preparations and impregnations, if Sinese has already appeared on the surface, it should be spanning well and apply a bleaching preparation.

Before installing BRUSEV, should be worried about their processing with the help of drugs that will ensure the protection of the tree from the sun, moisture and other external influences. Do not save on the purchase of these materials, as they are able to extend the life of a wooden bath several times.

Bath from log video:

The tree, being an environmentally friendly material, not only effectively retains heat, but also gives air to the room a special fragrance.

To build a wooden, you first need to prepare a timber.

Stage 1. Training Round

Attention! To determine the quality of the logs (you can abandon a low-grade sawmaker at any time), you need to know about the ideal conditions of the workpiece that we consider below.

Forest-rounding must be harvested at a minus temperature, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying, the material will be less deformed and crack.

For the durability of a cut, during construction uses certain areas of logs (the so-called comute logs). These sites start from the rhizomes and end in the crown. Such comuted logs are more dense (than beneficially different from the tops) and there are practically no bitch. Also, the selection criteria include the round shape and the degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, marriage is an error that exceeds 1 cm on the trafficphone meter.

Attention! If the length, for example, 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be blinking.

The same applies to the diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of the log is 35 cm, while the tops are 25 cm or less. Such rounded is categorically not recommended for use in construction.

Finally, pay attention to the tree breed. Ideally, coniferous breeds of trees (spruce, larch, etc.) should be used for the bath. The larch is characterized by resistance to moisture, although in the extreme case can be resorted to a combination of "pine-fir" in which several first crowns are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used during construction, the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic agent.

Further actions follow in accordance with the previously compiled project. Such can be made by yourself, find on the Internet or order from specialists. It is with the help of this document that you can calculate the required amount of consumables, determine the area and the form of the base.

Stage 2. Treatment of Bruus

Step 1. After you have brought the consumable material (or you cut and delivered it yourself), it needs 25-30 days to be searched.

Step 3. Then proceed to processing. First, clean the logs from the bark (do it carefully so that they do not crack), leaving it a little on the sides - approximately the 15-centimeter strip on each side.

Step 4. After processing, put the logs for storage of approximately 25 cm from the surface of the Earth. You can lay as you like - stacks, packs, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.

Video - Breed Preparation

Stage 3. Construction of the foundation

We will immediately disclaim that the massive monolithic can be abandoned due to the insignificant weight of the future design. In order to save, you can resort to one of the two possible light designs, namely:

belt foundation;
stated.

Consider each of the options.

For the construction of such a base over the entire perimeter, as well as under future walls, haul a trench of 40 cm wide and a depth of 50 cm, put on the bottom "pillow" from sand and gravel. Next, put the reinforcement, build a formwork with a 50 cm high and fill the concrete solution. As a result, the height will be approximately 1 m.

Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of the soil freezing in a specific region.

Video - Filling the foundation

Inside the perimeter, pour stripes from sand and rubble. In the future, the band can be pouring concrete or build a wooden floor on them. The choice of one or another depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Foundation of a column type

In case you need to build support. Here are two options:

brick;
from asbestos pipes.

Place the supports in the corners of the perimeter, as well as under all the walls with a pitch of 1.5 m. Under each support, pre-put a concrete "pillow". In each support, fix several reboot rods in such a way that the latter perform over the surface at least 30 cm.

Build a formwork with a height of 40 cm, put the reinforcement in it and tie it with the ponds protruding from the supports. Fill with concrete solution. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can proceed to further work.

Stage 4. Waterproofing base

Treat the foundation surface melted and laid over the rubberoid layer. After complete bitumen drying, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer.

Stage 5. Tool preparation

Such equipment will be required for work:

The last tool is "Damn" - we will pay special attention. For the manufacture you will need steel wire with acutely sharpened ends. Bend the wire in half so that it acquires the shape of the circulation, you can additionally secure the handle. This tool will be required when laying logs.

Stage 6. Construction of a Bani Srub

There are several assembly technologies:

The first option is the Russian cutting - is the easiest in execution, even an inexperienced carpenter can well cope with it. Therefore, we will consider that this technology.

Step 1. The construction of a church should be carried out in gradually and start with a bustling crown (in other words, from the first). The logs that will serve as a bustling crown, take it off to the Kant for the most dense adjacent to the foundation.

Step 2. On top of the waterproofing layer, put the first pair of logs. Squeeze the next pair at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the first and connect everything into the "cup".

Attention! "Cup" is the easiest way to connect during the construction of the building log houses. It is simple enough: the boundaries of the future "cup" are measured at the bottom of the log, then with the help of "features" places a deepening. After re-checking the size, the recess is neatly cut into the ax.

You can use chainsaw - it will significantly save time. Although the final finish of "cups" will still have to make an ax.

Attention! In the starting crown of "cups" will not be deep, as a result of which the logs will not touch the base. Therefore, in the emerging clearance, lay a pad - a small piece of boards of the required thickness treated with an antiseptic and covered with insulation.

Step 3. Next, put the second crown, using the most thick logs. This is explained by the fact that in the future you are cutting into them in sex. For the purpose of dense adjustment, do a longitudinal groove in the upper log, which would be a third of the diameter of the previous log. To draw the borders of the groove, put the top log on the lower and mark the markup with the help of "features".

Attention! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular and triangular. If there is a chainsaw in the presence, then you will handle the triangular groove in two or three minutes. But remember: the logs with a similar groove will not be tightly connected, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation of the properties of the walls.

It is obvious that the optimal option is a semicircular groove. Put it with a chainsaw, to remove balances, use the chisel.

Step 4. Warm the joints of the logs, preferably using a linen fabric. One piece of the canvas to put on the lower crown, the second connate the longitudinal groove (especially if the latter has a triangular shape).

Step 5. Connect the crowns among themselves. Here you can use:

square Squares;
round brazed from wood.

The second method is preferable, since it is copied can be prepared ready and make holes with an electric drill.

Make holes in increments of 1-1.5 m, parallel to flashing a completely pair of upper crowns and not completely - the third (bottom). To avoid skewing at the end of the shrinkage, you brazen in the upper crown at least 6-7 cm.

Step 6. Raise the walls on the desired height, put the ceiling beams and rafters over them. If wet wood was used, then instead of the rafter put slate sheets and wait for the design shrinkage. Usually, for this, it is enough to overweight once, but ideally the shrinkage should last a year and a half.

In the spring, when the shrinkage is finished, proceed to the pant.

Video - Osin Dranco Roof

Stage 7. Door, window openings

We specifically started talking about openings after the end of construction, since there are two options for their arrangement.

Stage 8. Konopka logs

At the end of the shrinkage, the cutter is performed. To do this, prepare such equipment:

a hammer;
konopathic (from wood or metal).

Attention! If you seal the interventation space of packles or moss, then you can skip this stage, because the cacopate you will most likely not need. But if you have found at least the slightest slits, then the procedure is still better to perform.

Getting to work solely after complete drying of the insulation. First twist the material (pass or moss) in the harness, then score between the crowns through the hammer and cacopa.

You can use a ribbon jute - in this case, the material simply is fixed by nails or mounting stapler.

Video - Siruba Konopka

Stage 9. Roof

As soon as the tree gives shrinkage, you can start building. If you do it before, then the roof will simply lead.

Step 1. Put wooden beams on the strapping of the walls (we have already spoken about it).

Step 2. Lock the beams and attach to them the rafting legs with a step in 1 m. In the skunk part of the spire of the rafted at the appropriate angle for the connection.

Step 3. Send to the rafter feet with a solid boardwalk (if the use of rolled roofing material is planned) or make a crate (if you use slate, tile, etc.).

Step 4. Install the roofing coating according to the instructions for a specific material.

Step 5. Build a galvanized steel sheet with a galvanized sheet to protect against aggressive environmental impact.

Step 6. Roof Fronttones Side siding or clapboard.

Example of cutting with drank roof

Sometimes when assembling there is a need for docking logs. In this case, do not allow the joints to be located over each other. Moreover, in the lower vents of the docking is not allowed.
When laying a log cabin on a finished foundation, you can collect logs before drying, setting the seal between them.
The windows are preferably equipped after shrinkage, since, otherwise they can shift.

Now you know how to buildluggage with your own hands.

Bath from a log house is a traditional option that allows you to ensure the comfort of water procedures and a pleasant pastime with a real Russian ferry in the company of friends. The log remains the best material that allows you to ensure good thermal insulation in combination with natural air circulation. The bath will have a comfortable and easy atmosphere, and it will create the best conditions for a comfortable stay.

Ready log cabins

How to assemble a carbon bath? Alone to make a log house from scratch - a complex work that requires spent carpentry skills, and it is better to charge it to professionals. The highest quality processing of angular connections will be required: Russian, Norwegian or Canadian cutting can be used, but in any case the compound must be even as high quality.

A good solution will be the purchase of the finished set of already processed logs that need to simply fold into the finished design, like the elements of the constructor. Such logs are pre-collected at the wood processing, customizing all the elements to each other.

Then the log house disassembled, and the brica is delivered to the object itself. This option has several advantages:

Bath construction preparation

How to collect a bath from a log cabin? Previously need to perform a number of works. Construction begins with the project. If you want to order a ready-made log house, any organization can offer various bath options.

Classic option - construction of rectangular shape 4x6 meters. In such a bath there will be a place to accommodate the pre-banker and the washing premises, which will perform the role of steam room. If the bath has a large area, soapy and steam room can be divided.

How to assemble a bath from a log with a prebator? The layout should take into account the location of the doors and windows: usually they are made small to save heat in the room.

The standard door height is 160 cm, width - 60-80 cm. The location and dimensions of the windows the owner must determine in accordance with personal illumination preferences.

It is important to choose the right place for the bath. It is usually located in the opposite corner from the building to ensure that fire standards are met. If the size of the site allows you to choose, the place for the bath is chosen away from the gate and at home itself, it must be located so that you can rest near the bath, I do not interfere with anyone.

Foundation for the bobban

Works on the construction of a bomb begins with clearing the place and the construction of the foundation. It can be a ribbon or column, it depends on the size and weight of the future facilities.

The foundation columnar is the cheapest foundation that is most often selected for wooden baths. For him, it is necessary to place the site and install pillars in the corners of the intended structure, under the intersection of walls and at different points with an increased load.

Pillars can be monolithic, sometimes they are also collected from concrete blocks or bricks. You can not leave the finished base for a long time without load, so you need to quickly move to the construction itself.

Bathroom assembly technology

How to assemble the log house? The process begins with mandatory waterproofing of the foundation, which is especially important for the bath, where the humidity will be increased.

Ruberoid, bitumen mastic and other materials can be used as waterproofing. After that, you can move to the assembly of the structure. How to assemble a bathhouse?

The first step is to lay a glow crown. So that it is firmly held on the foundation, the lower part is often spilled so that the log is to get a flat face. This will allow it to be firmly installed on a columnar or tape base.
The lags of the floor cut into the lower crown, which will subsequently fit the boards and the selected finishing material. The crown is laid by natural belt insulation, after which the next log is stacked in accordance with the scheme.
The walls of the cut usually erected quickly, birch bonded with wooden or metal brazers. It is important to observe the alternation of the "Colel-Top" when laying a logging that the wall does not turn out to be overwhelmed.
Ceiling beams are installed in the last crown, after which you can move to the installation of rafters and the construction of the roofing system. The rafters can be assembled into finished farms on Earth, but more often they are raised by one to the roof and set in accordance with the selected type of roof.

When the log house is assembled, it is pre-treated with an antiseptic and for a long time (at least six months) leave until the wood drying and the completion of the precipitation process. After that, you can move to insulating works and interior decoration.

Not only the walls need to warm: in the mandatory laying of the insulation, the floor needs, otherwise it will be cold and very uncomfortable in the bath. In addition, you need to take care of the roof waterproofing system.

Build a log of finished elements will not require a lot of time, work can be completed in a few days. Interior decoration Everyone chooses: placing the baths most often are trimmed with lining or other natural materials, the lighting is carried out, the stove is erected.

The construction of a bath is a complex art, the traditions of which were inserted by centuries. However, modern construction technique has expanded the capabilities of the owners and allowed to build reliable and warm structures in a short time.

Build a bath from a cut is not a simple task, however, the construction technology, the choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and are worked out by many masters.

In this material, all key points will be explained in the construction of a bathroom from a log cabin: from bookmarking the foundation to interior decoration.

The steam bath is known since the times of Scythians who have grown with them special bath tents and hiking chambers. And in the XXI century, the Russian bath did not become a certain archaism, successfully withstanding age-old competition with bathrooms and shower. Get rid of a variety of pigeons, remove harmful substances from the body accumulated in urban weekdays, give a full-fledged holiday - all this is achieved when visiting the bath for more than one and a half thousand years.

What a design is preferable how to choose a place to accommodate it, as it works in general - answers to many "bath" questions you will find in this article.

Bath Place and Planning

One of the important additions to the bath itself at all times was fresh water water, located nearby - in the absence of another source of water, the water was taken from it. A special charm in the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of contrasting ablution - rushing in a Russian bathhouse, to run out of it and plunge into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, the natural reservoir allowed to quickly cope with the fire of the bath, which arose quite often due to disorders during the furnace device.

Today, in the binding of the country bath, there is no particular need, but still it is convenient if it is located near, say, artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains for the owner of the cottage.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bath: removal from the road, the presence of natural or artificial fence from foreign spectators (thick bushes, crowns of trees, fence, economic buildings), fire-fighting distance from the main residential building at least 15 meters.

Basic bathrooms - pre-banker, washing and steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the pre-banker is determined by the calculation of 1.4 m 2 per bathing, the size of the washer is 1.2 m 2 per person. In addition, there should be a place for furniture (locker for clothing, benches for seating) and for storing fuel (coal or firebox). It will take a place for containers with hot and cold water, a furnace and a place for sun beds.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people) the bath of the following sizes will suit: external size - 4x4 m; Pregnant - 1.5x2.4 m; washing - 2x2 m; The steam room is 2x1.5 m. True, in the bath of such sizes it will not be particularly unfolded - but the places it takes a little.

In general, the sizes of the bath are directly related to the size of the site, which can be allocated under it. If the site is significant, then the bath can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, restrooms, etc.

In moderate and cold climatic zones, it will be right if the entrance to the bath is located in the south, and the window processes are on the Western (south-western) side. Such an entry arrangement will greatly simplify the use of bath in the winter season, since the southern side drifts are faster, and the direction of windows will allow longer to cover its premises with sunlight.

Building Baths - Stages

There are several of them:

Blanks of basic materials.
Select and bookmark the foundation.
Creating a foundation for a stove-heater (if necessary).
Creating a floor and sewer system bath.
Build a shruck bath.
Roof construction.
Formation of the scene around the perimeter.
Canopate wall baths.
Laying or installation of the furnace, chimney mounting.
Electrician and water supply bath.
Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful structural material for the Russian bath was and there will be a tree - wood easily copes with the revenge of the bathrooms, pulling out an extra moisture outward.

What wood is suitable for building a bath? As a rule, the baths are built from the roundabout of pine or ate with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only the tree will create an indescribable inner atmosphere in the steam room. However, in the design of the bath, it is better to turn on the wood of other breeds - oak, larch and lip. For example, the lower crowns and lags for flooring, made of oak, will allow you to get a truly durable bath. Nuance - Oak should be a spile "in the juice" (i.e., not a dry) and dried under the canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4), following the first oak, it is better to perform from larch. The final crowns, the elements of the interior decoration and the trim should be made from the linden or white ate - their wood is better than the wicking.

When should I store wood for building a bath? Rounded, wood for interior decorations must be cut down in winter, in the period when trees trunks contain the smallest amount of moisture - dry easier. In addition, not the entire trunk of the tree is suitable for the construction of the bath - only the middle part of the trunk will suit, that is, the top and kolly are not suitable.

An important criterion in the selection of wood will be the absence of cavities and sweats of resin on rounding coniferous rocks, dryness, a siny surface, the absence of stunned sites and places of defeat by the beetle-tree.

Foundation for baths

The main types of foundation for building a bath are ribbon and column, depending on local soils. Regardless of the chosen type of foundation, it is necessary to lay them with maximum accuracy - better if the ground freezing depth. Preliminary works before booking by the foundation of any type: cleaning the platform from the garbage, the complete removal of the upper layer of the soil to the depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which may refer to one of the three main groups:

Weak soil consists of peat, sludge, dust sand (contains plenty of water), clay fluid or teecolastic.
Punching soil (susceptible to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (dustless or small), clay components (clay, loam and sandy).
The weakly soil is formed by rocky rocks, medium and large sand grains.

Stamp (pile) Foundation for a bath

It is suitable on weakly soils: consists of pillars embedded in the corners of the bath, as well as in places of connecting internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation columns is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of laying a column foundation is at least 1.5 m.

The pillars for such a foundation are easy to make directly on the site of the construction of the bath, the material for them can be red brick, buttone bound by concrete solution. The main (angular) brick poles for a column foundation are usually a square shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary - rectangular, cross section 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are performed in two bricks - cross section 510x510 mm. The savings of the boob stone and the brick during the construction of a column foundation is achieved by filling the foundation yam sand - half of their depth, the large-phrase sand is laid in layers (each layer - 100-150 mm), poured with water and tram.

The foundation pillars when building a bath with their own hands can also be made independently. This will require a collapsible formwork from boards, missed from the inside with unscrewing lubricant type "Emulsol". Inside the collected formwork, you need to put iron fittings, then pour a concrete mixture.

For casting the foundation pillars inside the holes open to them, a sliding formwork is used, made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing or thick cardboard. From the material selected for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm is created, placed in the foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is falling asleep - it will perform the role of lubrication and prevents the approach of the concrete pillar when the soil is frozen. Armature tied up with a thick wire is inserted into the formwork, then a concrete mixture is poured, which must be carefully sealing. For wire handles, pre-mounted on a sliding formwork, it is lifted by squeaking at 400 mm, sweep the sand outside and pour a new portion of concrete.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a bar foundation, they are durable, non-rotting, and their outer surface is smooth enough, which allows them not to change their position when the soil is frozen. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete, their underground part must be covered with a mineral-based construction lubricant, to reduce the threat of facepits to the soil.

In the intervals between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bath and the inner walls of the pair of steam room, the walls of brick are laid out, sufficient thickness of their brick and even the pollockich. Such brick walls must be opened in a soil by 250 mm.

The foundation pillars and brick walls between them are displayed at a height of 300-400 mm on the level of the soil, they need to be aligned with the cement mortar and clamping the rubberoid for waterproofing. In the ends of the pillars, when casting, the mortgages of the required form of metal are installed - they are designed to fasten the shrue bath to the foundation.

When building a bath on bunched soils, the creation of a ribbon monolithic foundation will be required.

Sequence of work:

Marking of the construction site of the beeps, stretched between the pegs.
Digging the trench of the required depth (its size is associated with the characteristics of local soils, not less than 400 mm) and 300 mm width.
Running on the bottom of the trench of the sand layer, then gravel (each 70-100 mm).
Installing formwork.
Bookmark fittings.
Pouring a concrete mix.

The fittings stacked on the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross section of at least 12 mm, it is placed along each of the two sides of the trench and knit into the frame, lifting it up to its middle with brick debris.

The composition of the concrete mix is \u200b\u200bcalculated by the proportion of 5: 3: 1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used should be dry and clean (washed). Calculate the volume of concrete needed to fill the tape base, it is enough simple, you only need to measure the width, depth, and the total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m is required by such a volume of concrete mix:

0.3 x 0.4 x 22 \u003d 2.64 m 3

One of the difficulties in the preparation of a dry mixture of concrete is the lack of weights on construction sites. Therefore, it is useful for you to calculate the dry components for concrete: in one 10-liter bucket, it is contained from 15 to 17 kg of rubbish, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation molded into it performed above the soil level by 100 mm. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be repeatedly pierced with a bayonet shovel or wire probe, to overtake the hammer of the formwork (eliminate the air sinuses). Then you need to wait for a complete rejection of the foundation, from about 5 to 7 days. When conducting fundamental work during the cold season, the formwork after the fill of the concrete you need to cover the PVC film and fall asleep on top of sawdust or other insulation.

After the expiration of the term allocated to the drying of the cast foundation, proceed to its waterproofing and lifting with brick rows (if the bath rise is not required, then, after waterproofing, go to the cement screed). The following materials will be needed:

Ruberoid.
Pipe is about 2 m (plastic or metal), cross section from 32 to 57 mm.
Masonry mesh.
Red brick.
Masonry solution.

Ruberoid (Tol) cuts into strips sufficient for flooring on a concrete foundation, then laid out on top of the foundation on bitumen mastic (for roofing - tarmatory mastic). Brick is put on a single-row dressing way: a layer of rubberoid is laid out a masonry solution, it is the first brick row "in the post" (across the foundation axis), then the masonry mesh is settled, the solution is put on the solution and the next brick range, but already "in spoons" (along the axis foundation). Each new row of brickwork is accompanied by a filling mesh flooring, laying "in spoons" and "in the post" alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th chip rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation products from pipe cutting - 5-7 of the foundation is enough. The number of brick series depends on the desired height of the foundation.

The last row of brick masonry is covered with a cement screed (the composition of the sand solution: cement as 1: 2 or 1: 3), a 20 mm layer.

Independent Foundation for Kamenka and Paul Bath

Create a foundation for stove-Kamenka and collect a bathhouse. If a major layout is assumed - it is necessary for it an independent foundation, that is, not related to the main foundation.

The floor in the bath can be clay, earthwood, wooden or concrete. By and large, it does not need heat insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden lattice, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task to save visitors to the baths from a sharp feature of a cold caused by touch to the floor at the outlet of the steam room. For self-hazing, the flooring is raised above the main floor.

The main minus of the wooden floor of the bath is its frequent convergence - water, penetrating through the slots between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rotting and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. Wood flooring is quickly wearing, acquiring an unsightly appearance, after 6-8 years it may require replacement. A tile is more practical for a bath flooring - it is easier to care for it, it is not exposed to moisture, easily flowing on its surface.

Floors in the bathrooms need to be located at different levels: Paul steam room - above the floor level is 150 mm (we save heat), the floor washing - below the floor level in the pre-banker by 30 mm (we take away from water from entering water).

Since the concrete floor is coated with ceramic tiles in the washing and steam room more profitable than the wooden floor - we will consider this option.

You can arrange a concrete floor in a bath in several ways. First of all, we prepare the reason for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of 100 mm layer of sand and 100 mm layer of a crushed stone of the middle fraction laid sequentially. Each layer should be well tumped and aligned. Then to wave on top of the runneroid, closing the walls to the height of the future floor.

Next steps:

First option - 50 mm layer of felt layer, clamzite or slag, on top of 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope to the drain hole. After setting the concrete, it should be aligned with a solution of cement, after which you can start tiled.
Second option - 50 mm Cement screed containing perlite (strolled sand). The composition of the mixture: perlite: cement: water like 5: 1: 3. After a complete week, from the moment of laying a pelitobetone, we apply a layer of concrete on top of 30 mm with a slide slope. When dealing with perlit, you need to respect special caution - this material is extremely lung, even a light breeze blossoms, so it is necessary to work with it in a closed room without drafts. Meet the proportion of water!

With a significant approach of the base of the bath above the ground level (from 300 mm), wooden lags of a square section will be required for flooring (150 mm side). If the size of the rooms of the baths do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the owls for lag will be bricken salary. During large sizes, additional supports for sexually lags will be required, they are pillars from concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700-800 mm. The support pillars for lag should be set on a multilayer base from sand, rubble and concrete - each 100 mm.

Important! Before forming the base for the support of the lag, you must perform the foundation for the Kamenka stove and build a sewage system.

Wood for lag may be oak, larch or coniferous rocks, lags should be treated with tar or antiseptic to installation.

The solution of the floor covering in this case is: the concrete space between the foundation is covered with a rubberoid with a flood of walls to the height of the floor, falling asleep by slag or clay (between the layer of rubberoid and bulk insulation, can be laid a layer of 200 mm of foam), to the lower side of the lava, the draft floor from 29 mm can be mounted Edged board. Then the PVC film is laid, foil mineral insulation, again a layer of films - for vapor barrier. On top of the 5 mm layer of concrete with a shallow fraction filler, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put the ceramic tiles.

Do not forget to bring the foundation for the furnace to the floor level.

The floor in the pre-tribades are created from a 19-29 mm t-shutty boards of coniferous wood.

Important moment: when finishing clean floor, and the entire steam room and washer, do not use synthetic building materials - the condition is especially important for the pair of room!

Sewage system bath

To remove wastewater from the bath, it will be necessary: \u200b\u200ba veil with a hydrotherapy, a wastewater well and pipes, removing dirty water into the veil on and then into a waste well.

The pita is cut off outside the foundation of the bath, from the premises of the steam room and the washer in it are breeding in plastic pipes, cast iron or ceramics (metal pipes quickly rust).

The pit should defend from the foundation by 500 mm, its depth is 700 mm, the cross section is 500x500 mm. The veil walls are covered with 100 mm layer of concrete, in it under the foundation there is a drain 110 mm tube (pipes) from a bath. The main well well, containing at least 2 m 3, must be opened at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the further, the better. The tube was supplied to it from the pit, laid under the slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the depth of the freezing), its output from the pit should be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering the drain pipe, the mainstream well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, the ground is poured - a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully confuse each layer.

Before conclusion of the drain pipe in the pit, the hydraulic was installed from galvania, located under a stupid angle to the plum pipe from the bath. Its edges and the upper side are hermetically attached to the veil walls, the distance from its bottom edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - due to such a design of unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the pair (washing) through the waterproof hole.

To exclude the freezing in the winter, the veils must be closed with two caps of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), there is felt between them, and the upper cover fall asleep on top of the clay, slag or sawdust.

Circuit, Roofing and Soul

The bathhouse for the bath is better to order from professional performers, its manufacture is quite difficult. A finished log house in a disassembled form must be brought to the construction site and assemble it according to the login numbering. The attachments of the crowns are performed by steel 25 mm brackets-spikes with a total length of 150 mm, a length of the tooth is up to 70 mm.

The roof design of the bath includes rafters, the lamp is attached to them, then the roofing material. The choice of the final design of the roof depends on the roofing coating, which it will overlap. The rafters are attached to the last crown of a church (better to the penultimate) using brackets. As a rule, the construction of a bath involves the arrangement of a single or duplex roof, the angle of the slope (from 10 ° to 60 °) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitate in this area. Consider - the steep roof, the more the material is required to create it.

Single rafters located at an angle are attached to two outer or inner and outer supports. If the length of the span of the rafter exceeds 5 m, they are supported by additional subtairs. The rafting of the bartal roof is based on the bottom ends on the walls, the tops are connected to each other, forming a horse.

The roof of the bath can be covered with any material (slate, tiled, rubberoid, galvanized, etc.), with a wall at a wall at least 500 mm.

An attic room must be done ventilated, i.e., to equip two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

On the perimeter of the foundation, we perform a breakdown: completely remove the upper layer of the soil, deeper by 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the base of the bath, lay 100 mm layer of gravel (rubble, clay) with its subsequent alignment. We lay the temperature seams (19 mm board coated with a resin or bitumen, with a pitch of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), pour 100 mm layer of concrete. Before setting the concrete, its surface is needed to eliminate - fall asleep dry cement with a layer of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact with the breakfast and the foundation of the bath must be covered with bitumen for its waterproofing.

Canopate Ban Srub

It is performed for the warming of a cut - sealing the slots between its logs, the material for the cacopa traditionally serves a linen package, a red moss, hemp from cannabis, woolen felt. Natural materials for cacopate can be replaced by factory, produced from jute and flax fibers: flanutin and felt - jute and flax. The advantage of factory materials for cacopate before natural is the resistance to the damage to the mole and fungus, and it is easier to work with the factory material, since it is produced in the form of a solid tape of a given thickness and width.

The cutting of the cutter is performed when it is assembled - the pure material is paved between the logs during their laying. After the construction of the roof, a complete cacker is performed - from the outer and inside of the log cabin, after a year - repeated cavulus (the log house is hesitated - the brica will dry).

Basic tools for cacopate - a blade and a beater, they can be made or purchased ready for them. Both of these tools are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). The shovel for the cacopa looks like a wedge with a handle with a length of 200 mm and a pointed blade of 100 mm, the thickness of the handle of 30 mm, the width of the blade at the base is 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden beater has a rounded shape: the diameter of the handle is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the diameter of the shock part 70 mm, the length is 100 mm.

Konopka is performed in two ways - "in a set" or "stretching". In the second way, cavalid so: we collect panties in a strand, we deprote in the gap between the logs and pushing there with the help of a blade, filling the gap completely, without spaces. Then we collect a roller with a roller, we apply to the cocointed groove, take out small strands of the material from it, wind the roller and drive it into the groove with the blades and roller - with force, to complete confidence in filling the groove (crack).

The first method of cacopate of the log cabins is designed to overlap the grooves (slots) of a large width. The material for cacopate is twisted by 2 mm strands, of which we form several loops and drive them into the gap. The loops are recruited in an amount sufficient to fully fill the gap.

Rules for carrying cavity:

initially, the material is clogged on the upper edge of the log and only after - at the bottom;
work on cacapatka is starting with the slits of the lower crown, on both sides. Then go to the lower crown of the next wall and so on. After having finished the caulp of the slots of the lower crowns, we start working on the next height, moving from this crown to neighboring in the nearest wall (right to left or left to right, no matter).

In no case, do not carry out the caispite of only one wall - it will rise and cause a soul break, it will have to disassemble it / collect again. Recall again: the cachatka is performed in the direction of "bottom-up" along the perimeter of the cut.

Put a stove

Options for bathing furnaces for baths set, they can be heated with firewood, gas, liquid fuel or use built-in tanes and heat from electricity, can be brick, cast-iron or metal. Brick furnaces in the baths are performed with a wall thick "in Polkirpich" or "into a whole brick", the masonry seams need to be tied up especially accurately, striving for their lowest thickness to achieve the greatest efficiency of the furnace. For masonry stoves only red bricks are used. The furnace furnace is removed into the pre-banner, its remaining three walls are in the washing (steam room), while the distance from them to the walls of the washing should be at least 250 mm - in this case the heat will not leave "into the wall".

For a cast iron or metal furnace, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for bricks.

Kamenka, installed for lovers to shake, are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). To fill the chamber of Kamenok fits boot, goats, boulders and granite. The design of these furnaces is extremely simple - similar to the kitchen stoves, the stones differ from them with a pipe of greater width or the presence of a chamber with stones.

To get the highest temperatures in the steam room, you need to add cast-iron pigs over a percentage of 80:20 (stones: khushchi). For each 1 m 3, the steam rooms will need not less than 6 kg of stones and cast-iron saues.

Under the observance of 40-50 mm distances in the furnace between its walls and a water heating boiler, the effect of a comprehensive blowing of the boiler with hot gases and the speedy water heating is achieved.

For better thrust you need to remove the smoke pipe as close as possible to the roof of the roof. Conducting a smoke pipe through the attic room, be sure to perform a 380 mm tube roller. Remember that the pipe should not take place near the roofing roofing and rafted closer than 150 mm (fire standards).

Electrician and Water Supply Bath

To wash a single user bath requires at least 8 liters of hot water. You can provide such a number in several ways: heating the capacity with water on the heater, use the gas column, install the electric heater - the boiler. If there is central water supply, the pipeline to the bath lead from the main house - water from such a system of the pipeline must be drained in winter, otherwise it will leave and rupture the pipe.

Water can be taken from the well or well by installing the submersible pump for its injection and supplying such a water supply system with cleaning filters. And in this case, in the winter time, water should be either merged after each use of the bath, or insulate the supply pipes.

To the bath you need to stretch an independent line for the supply of electricity and the easiest way to do it through the air (air). For the air will need a special cable - "naked" aluminum We note immediately, stopping at two versions: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and WEGN. The first type of cable is very good, he has a long service life (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need a support for the carrier cable. But it is extremely difficult to carry out installation work, since it is too thick (the minimum cross section is 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP can not be stretching through the attic bath on fire standards, it is necessary to fix it on special anchor clips - in terms of costs and hassle with its installation, its value will cost expensive.

A simpler solution is a Copper Cable Bulk Cable, fixed on the carrier steel cable. The cable is suspended to the cable on the insulated plastic wire, its service life is up to 10 years, after which it needs to be replaced (!). For a single-core BBN cable (of course, there should be two veins - each of them should be in an independent double overtake), the aircraft extended to the bath, the optimal cross section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is unknown exactly what electrical equipment of the dacha wants to drive from it Future.

All Tuso-wrinkle boxes, sockets and switches, electrical stops should be only an outdoor installation. According to the fire safety rules, it is prohibited to install splash boxes, switches and sockets in the washing / steam room - only in the pre-banker. Do not joke with the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - the entire inner wiring of the bath must be performed only in a non-combustible corrugation, fixed on special clips, the passage of cable through partitions is only through the steel pipe.

Try to locate cables in a sawn box, a socket or lamp so that they come there from below or side, but not from above - a drop of condensate, sliding on a fever, can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a waterproof class not lower than IP44 (better maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps - metal case, only glass ceiling. All connections of the inner wiring of the cable - only on the terminal, no twists. And install in the shield of the RCD, exposing it to 30 mA.

For work in the electrical protection and installation of the UZO, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you are not available!

Installation of partitions, ceiling, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

Internal partitions in the bath can be brick or wooden, followed by heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washer and the pre-bake, in which the furnace is installed, must be brick, or it takes brick inserts with masonry in one brick - on the sides in contact with the furnace housing.

Interior decoration is usually performed in cases where the bath itself is built of bricks, stone or timber - here the classical decoration scheme: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing an external and interior decoration, it is necessary to re-arrange the ventilation system of the bath, because the cutting birings will be closed with trimming and will not be able to carry out full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed by two layers - rough and finishing. The draft ceiling is attached to the horizontal lags of the roof, if necessary, the reinforced intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - clay or slag. From the inside the room washing / pairing to the rough ceiling, the insulation and a vapor barrier film is fastened, after which the ceiling is overlapped with a finishing trim - a linden, pine circulating board (with a thickness of 20 mm - the thicker the board, the longer it will save the woody odor).

In the bath you need to arrange the windows of a small size (on average 500x700 mm) and to embed them low - enough so that through them you can look out to sit on the bench. The windows in the bath always perform with double glazing, depending on the size - with the window or fully swinging - to carry out fast ventilation.

Doors in the rooms of the bath must be installed so that they open up - for the reasons of fire safety. Material for door flaps is a pinned board (40-50 mm) or a board with a chosen quarter, the attachment of the boards is performed on the key. The size of the sash should be intentionally reduced by 5 mm - more than it is necessary for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, with increasing humidity, the sash will swell and open (close) it will be difficult. The optimal size of the door in the washing bath of the bath is 600x1600 mm, in the pair - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor level (walking uncomfortable, but heat will keep). Loops for hanging door leafs - brass, leaving for a prebator (room washing) and in the washing room (pair room). Door handles - wooden (especially in steam room).

The shelf material is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the regiments is 1800 mm, the width is 500-800 mm. The distance between the "floors" of the two-row regiments should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to the ceiling coating is 1100 mm.

The surface for lying is formed by a black-width of 80 mm wide, from 40 mm thick, a lumen of 15 mm width is formed between the boards. From the wall to the shelf, a distance of 10 mm is withstanding. The boards for the shells of the regiments are attached to the frame from the bar with a cross section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - with the help of nails whose caps are taken into a tree; bottom - with screws. For fastening, nails and stainless steel screws or copper are chosen.

All angles in the design of the regiments are spinning, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero sandpaper.

For more convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the head of the head of the head - 460 mm, the final highest height is 190 mm.

When choosing a material to create regiments, be careful - it is believed that the bumping sections have greater density and can lead to a skin burn. Therefore, try to pick up the boards and a bar at all without dumping sites or with the minimum amount.

Fire fighting measures

Confine bathrooms from the threat of a fire - Severe a steel sheet in front of the furnace furnace, make sure that the fastening of the furnace door is relieved, set the fire extinguishing tools (water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure you can freely open the pair and washer doors during the battery. Do not block the passages, space in front of the doors and windows.

Build a bath from a log of a difficult task, however, the technology of construction, the choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked with many masters. In this material, all key points will be explained in the construction of a bathroom from a log cabin: from bookmarking the foundation to interior decoration.