How to insulate the seams between the logs. Selection of material for the cacopate of the log house and the methods of its laying. Option # 2. Shipping

To build a log house, you need to consider many issues related to its construction. One of them, no less significant and important - what and how to close the cracks between the logs to protect the house from the impact of natural factors. Variants of the cacopate of interbreakspace a lot. What choose you, will depend on this life in your new home

How to close the slots between the logs - natural materials

You will receive the most correct and good advice from an experienced master or man who built a house himself.

So, many experts with experience come to the belief that moss sphagnum is one of the most effective and reliable materials for sealing the gaps.

It takes from the outskirts of the swamps is still wet and stamped with interventic joints. This kind of moss is very easy and supple.

The quality of the cacopa of the walls is determined by a sharp selay that believes between the corporate logs. If it enters the gap is hard, as in the wood, then the caulking is made on conscience.

Another ecologically clean way to eliminate the gaps is the use of packle, filled with cement or plaster, as well as a tight loss of pure material without any impurities.

An alternative material for cacopate is a jute fiber or hemp fiber (hemp), which differs from the package by the fact that the first is made of flax, and the second is obtained from cannabis.

Our great-grandfathers used these materials. They are relevant today. What is better than a packle or moss, it is difficult to say. If the cacopate is performed qualitatively, any material is good. That's just if you want to change the layout using chainsaws, the problem will arise: the panel or hemp can be pretty to score and fade.

How to close the gap between logs - modern materials

In addition to environmentally friendly materials that nature supplies us, there are modern synthetic materials offered by the domestic and foreign industry. As for ecology, of course, you can argue, but reliability is guaranteed by the manufacturer's factory.

• Silicone sealant

One of these materials is silicone sealant. Since wood has the property to absorb moisture and evaporate it, then such a method of sealing is dubious, because the evaporation under the layer of sealant will not be carried out, which sooner or later will lead to the formation of rot.

• Polyurethane sealant

There are many special sealants based on polyurethane. It is not susceptible to temperatures resistant to ultraviolet rays. The mask on its basis is quite suitable for sealing the seams of the wandes of the house.

Cannot be used for smelling seams polyurethane sealants that are sold in cylinders - they are not designed for direct exposure to sunlight!

As you know, a house from a tree "breathe". The processes of heating and cooling, absorption and evaporation of moisture lead logs into a small movement. So, the mounting foam will not last long, after a while it will give cracks and crumbling. Therefore, to close the seams, use more elastic materials.

How to make a pantop - competent gasket between logs

Before sealing seams, think what material will be under the smelting. It is inappropriate to lure the cracks with sealants, as they can be very deep and amount to dozens.

So, calculate that it is more profitable: the filler is on what basis, industrial or natural.

Natural we have already discussed, and as for the synthetic, many experts come to the opinion: to use a cord from a foamed polymer, which comes on sale of different diameters, which is very convenient when fit under the gap.

So, when the gaps are most closely clogged, covered with sealants. To do this, we stick to the length of the brave scotch in order to avoid pollution by the smear. As a spatula, we use a rubber spatula designed for seams. And completely close the joints will help ostels. They will even improve the overall style of your log.

When it comes to finishing the seams between the bar or a log, the literature alone will not be enough, since the tent of the books will provide for your consideration as much cavinc options. Of course, deliberately false information on the pages of reference books is rare, but this still happens, and it is quite difficult to identify it among other data.

The most reliable advice on how to close the gaps between the logs will give only an experienced master, or at least a person who has tested what he says. And, interestingly, many agree on the fact that moss is one of the most effective means of cacopa. Often on the outskirts of the swamps you can see a whole carpet of the sphagnum, which, while still wet, is easily stuck in the joints between the crowns.

A qualitative can only be called such a pantry at which the sharp sequel enters the slot between the logs is no less severe than in the wood.

A more common and the same eco-friendly sealing of the gaps is filling their palauls, asked by plaster or cement solution or simply the dumping of this consumable material without any additives. Instead, you can use hemp or jute fiber. The difference between hemp and packles is insignificant - the first is the derivative of flax, less often cannabis, the second is obtained only from cannabis.

These materials were used and our ancestors, so today they will manifest themselves no worse. The only thing that inconvenience can create is if you suddenly need to soak a new window or make another opening for the souls, it will be difficult to use a chainsaw - a panel and hemp clogged and stupid her.

Modern Mascape for Logs

In addition to natural materials for sealing seams between the crowns of the cut (some of which do not even need to buy, it is enough to go to the forest or on the swamp) the modern industry can offer a mass of synthetic. It is no longer necessary to speak about environmentally friendly here, but reliability is definitely observed that from such marsomy, actually, and is required.

Some "specialists" advise to use silicone sealant, but such a method of sealing seams will only aggravate the situation, since the wood is used to absorb moisture, and if it is worse somewhere worse, the rot is almost certainly formed.

In stores you can find a lot of special polyurethane-based sealants, which are not afraid of ultraviolet and temperature drops. Such a wig for logs is suitable for filling the seams both outside and inside the cut. In no case do not use polyurethane sealants in the cylinders, since they are for the most part "not like" sunlight.

It is important to know: for seaming the seams requires a rather elastic material, since the wooden house "breathes", it absorbs moisture and releases it, heats up and cooled, as a result of all these factors, let it be slightly, but permanent logging. Under such conditions, the same mounting foam simply burst a few months later.

How is the cacopa and gasket between logs?

Before close the seams between the logs, think about what you will have under the smear. The fact is that completely clogged with seals is irrational and uneconomically, since they can be rather deep, and in the firing of such seams is usually not less than 40.

Therefore, you should immediately make a decision, you will use natural aggregate or synthetic. Natural materials for cacopa We mentioned above, as for artificial, many masters converge on the fact that it is best to use cord from foamed polyethylene, it can be different diameters, can be selected under the width of the slots.

Having scoring with the maximum seam density, we begin to cover the caisp of the sealant. To begin with, turn on both sides of the cracks of the malarious tape, so as not to be stained with a smear all log. If you have used a logging gasket between logs with a logging or bar when laying a log (as such a layer, some recommend moss, it is better not to use the glass gamble), fill the gap with breathable material, such as the panel.

Now as for the cooler itself: you can make it with your fingers, but it will be ugly, it is better to use a special rubber spatula for seams, which is successfully used when applying grouts for the tile. In order to finally close the joints, you can jazve the nicknasters that perfectly fit into the overall style of the cutting structure.

Recently, there are increasingly disputes and discussions on the Internet on the Internet: the better the sealing of interventic gaps and seams, what to close the cracks in a bar and logs - long known to all palauls or modern, specially designed for these purposes with sealants for wood?

Of the information presented in different forums, in comments and articles, the feeling may arise that Both packle are interchangeable materials, and the use of one eliminates the need for the use of another. In fact, this is not quite so. To begin with, it should be borne in mind that the assembly of the house and the sealing of its interventic cracks is two different types of work. And just in the process of assembling the panel, jute or other sealing materials will be quite by the way.

Imagine that you fold the log house. Konopka cut from a log log packle with the subsequent use of sealant for wood is necessary. The ideal logs do not happen, so the need for a sealing or connecting material, lagging between the logs, will still arise. But so popular today, the sealant will be indispensable when finishing the finished structure - it will provide additional thermal insulation and protect the tree from the development of bioprovirations and the penetration of moisture.

How to close the cracks between the logs

So, we came to the conclusion that the sealant and panel are not interchangeable! For high-quality, efficient, durable and professional sealing of interventical seams, these funds should be applied in the complex. Now consider the sealing process of interventical seams.

1. During the assembly of the house, a jute or linen pass can be tightly bought into the interwetted seams, as an alternative, you can use cord for sealing seams between logs Vilaterm.

2. After that it is important to prepare the surface: Clean the wood in the sealing zone from dust, chips, dirt, sawdust, rotary damage, etc.

3. Immediately before sealing, seal cracks and seams with an area of \u200b\u200bmore than 5 cm. First of all, the seal is needed to provide adhesion sealant only to the edges of the adjacent logs, and not to their inner surfaces. Thus, the sealant will work as a membrane or a gum, stretched between surfaces without separation.

4. Apply the sealant for wood can be in one layer using a syringe, spatula or special construction. The consumption of the material will depend on the size of the crack / seam, the thickness of the applied layer should be on average from 0.4 to 1 cm. Smooth the seam and provide it with the necessary form will help a wooden spatula, a rubber roller for rolling wallpaper, a shovel (extinguishing) or even a finger, Smoked soapy water.

Why apply sealant after caulking cut packles, what tasks does he decide?

1. After shrinkage, the gaps between them can be expanded and narrowed. Mowed once the insulation will be not enough, and it will have to close the cracks. At first after the construction of the house, the engineers recommend three times to repeat the pacles to eliminate the freezing and blowing of the seams.

2. Jute and Pacle - Favorite Birds. They pull out the material from the gaps, thereby "bare" house. It is necessary to regularly add the insulation, to repeat the process of the cutter of the cut, and this time and additional costs. Sealant for interventic seams same unattractive for insects and birds. Use the sealant should be at least to protect the packle. With its competent application, the need to re-process packles will disappear.

3. In the insulation itself, insects are often treated, which corrupt the material so that it is poured out of the seam. The sealant for the wooden house eliminates the possibility of penetration of insects in the slot between the logs. Gradually disappear the danger of destruction is not only pacles and sealants, but also, actually, tree.

4. In this case, complete sealing of packle seams will not provide. And the effects of temperature, precipitation and humidity will communicate with all the properties of this material over time, and bioprations will be separated in the joints of the joints. However, the right sealant sealant for wood will fully fill the cracks and the seams, which will allow several times to reduce heat losses, and will also prevent the development of bioprovirations and moisture in the interventic seams.

In addition to the above, some sealants for wood ( acrylic suture, Seaner Neomid Warm house Wood Professional Plus Plus Rider Neomid Warm home Wood Professional) have a number of important qualities. Providing heat and comfort, sealants also allow support to support a favorable microclimate in the house. At the same time, it forms a vapor-permeable layer and does not interfere with natural ventilation. It can be used not only for sealing slots, but also for sealing side and end cracks. Just as a result of the formation of such cracks, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the tree falls at times, and only the sealant solves this problem.

Sealant Neomid Warm House Wood Professional Plus It will endure the most extreme temperature - from -50 to + 70s, so it can be used for seams of seams both inside and outside the house in any climatic zones. And the sealing of the gaps with its help can be carried out at any stage of the "life" of the building - and during operation, and at the stage of construction.

It is worth noting that modern sealants for the wooden house are aesthetic and environmentally friendly (not distinguished in the air of harmful substances). The palette from different shades allows you to pick up the composition under the color of wood or, on the contrary, create a spectacular contrast. And the plasticity of the material will give the opportunity to form a beautiful seam by a convex, straight or concave form.

Sooner or later, cracked appear in the logs (or bars) of the bathroom. This is a natural process and completely prevent it is impossible. And do you need? Small breaks on wood fabric do not have any influence on the operational properties of the structure. Therefore, some of the owners of log cabins belong to the grid of cracks on the logs, as a decorative element. But carelessness is not always good. If the width of the defect exceeds 3-5 mm, and in length is spread over the entire surface of the log, you need to wait for trouble. Atmospheric moisture will fall into the crack, and this is fraught with waterproofing. Also in secluded wood corners, insect-cores, feeding on wood and capable of "treat" the most durable log house with their jaws.

It is necessary, if possible, prevent the appearance of deep cracks in the logs. If they still appeared, then learn to close them.

Why do cracks appear on the log?

Most of all cracks on the logs are formed in the first year shrinkage. Why? Everything is simple: during this period, the log house is sitting, the logs dries off. It happens unevenly. The outer layers of wood always dry faster than internal. Outside the log is almost dry, and in the center - moisture is maintained. The difference in humidity leads to the difference in fiber voltages. Tensile stresses begin to the surface layers, and the internal compressive. Such a dissonance causes fibers in surface layers, that is, cracks appear.

The faster the logs dries out, the greater the difference between the voltages. In this case, the tree cracks more active, forming wide and deep slots.

Preventive measures

Method # 1. Long natural drying

The best prevention is a long-term natural dryer logs before bookmarking them into a log house. The evenly, throughout the thickness of the fibers, the logs will dry, the less likely the probability of cracks. The speed of drying in the inner and external layers should be approximately the same. Then the moisture from the inner layers will go to external, and they, in turn, to evapose it into the environment.

Such a balance manages to observe if the duration of drying will be at least two years. Dry logs in a shady, dry and cooler place. According to the total, the moisture of wood should decrease to 18-20%.

For comparison: when dried logs for one year, the width of the resulting cracks is not more than 6-10 mm, for two years - no more than 1-2 mm. If the logs were dried less than a year, then the width of the crack can exceed 10-20 mm.

Method # 2. Compensatory propyl

I propyl in the upper or bottom of the log (timber) helps to reduce stresses in wood fibers. Such a propyl is called compensatory or unloading. It is performed along the axis of the log, more often on the upper surface. Some craftsmen performing along the entire surface, others do not bring the groove to the ends.

In Srub, it was cut off overlapping from above the lying log, so the moisture does not fall into it. When the solder is dried expanding. But, at the same time, the amount of natural cracks formed is reduced, their depth and width are reduced.

Propyl is a smooth groove with a thickness of 7-10 mm, a depth - 1 / 3-1 / 4 from the diameter of the log. Cutting can be performed using chainsaws, a milling mill or on an otlinder machine.

Method # 3. Sealing ends of Brenen

The ends of the logs (spike places) dry out several times faster than the rest of the outer surface. Therefore, with an intense dye, the ends are first covered by cracks. To prevent this process, you need to close the yield output through the ends. That is, to cover their sealant. Then the ends stop quickly evaporated with moisture. It will go into the external layers of the log and already from there will evaporate, but already evenly.

For the coating of the ends, you can use olive, oil paint, oil varnish, wax solutions. Previously, for sealing, the ends were missing lime.

On the need to protect the ends of the logs are speaking in the following video:

Methods of sealing cracks in log logs

Preventive measures help reduce the number of cracks arising. It is impossible to get rid of their appearance completely. But hide their presence, as well as prevent putrefactive processes in their thicker, is quite real. For this, cracks close up using various materials - dry mixes, hardening maps, sealants. Consider the most successful embodiments.

Option 1. Wamping from sawdust and pva

Cracks can be filled with a homemade magazine made of a mixture of PVA and sawdust (or tyrs). The components are mixed to the consumption of putty and the resulting mixture fill the slot. You can act with a spatula, pushing the cracker deep into the crack.

After hardening, the smelting can slightly "fall". The resulting free groove is close to re-using the same adhesive mixture or a wood putty.

Option # 2. Shipping

A deep and wide crack can be blocked by a chip, sharpened wedge. Slit length is equal to the length of the crack.

Sliding with an effort is clogged into a crack, it is desirable for a fastening to the wedge of the PVA layer. A spacure or a mixture of PVA with sawdust is applied on top.

Option # 3. Sealing with a putty

Acrylic putty is closed only small cracks, with a width and depth of no more than 3 mm. If the crack is more, then acrylic putty in it after hardening will begin to crack. And after a short time - will fall.

Wood putty are sold in the form of finished plastic compositions painted originally under the color of a certain breed of wood. They will dry quickly, are water and frost-resistant, durable. When you close up such a putty, it is convenient to use the rubber spatula.

Option # 4. Sealing acrylic sealant

Acrylic sealants in the syringes are also well suited to connect the walls of the wood break. But it is impossible to completely pour them a deep crack. The maximum layer of sealant is 5 mm.

If the cutting depth exceeds 5 mm, the following is done: deep into the polyethylene harness (for example, "ionel"), and the sealant is applied over it. Polyethylene does not fit with the sealant, allows him to work well on stretching and create an elastic fastening tape.

Option # 5. Drying with arbogps

Durable and reliable crack aggregate can be made from arbogil. Arbogils is an aqueous solution of plaster (alabastra) with sawdust, tyrsa, crushed bark, straw sch. Most often, hydrofins are used as aggregate.

The arbogils are mixed as follows: sawdust add to dry gypsum, mix the mixture with water. For more plastic composition, several drops of shampoo add to the water. Gypsum ratio with sawdust - 1: 3. The ratio of gypsum to the amount of water - 2: 1.

After kneading should be dense, plastic mass. It is important to mix it well to prevent lumps. The mixture is frozen very quickly, so it is necessary to use it immediately after kneading. The spatula is inserted by arbogils in the gap, leave it until complete drying. The "seal" from the arbogipses is obtained very durable and durable. It is reliably engaged with wood, does not fall out when operating.

Option # 6. Corps moss

In the villages, large cracks are preferred to close with moss. Such core does not spoil the appearance of the log, and eliminates the bridges of the cold, which can be formed in a litter in a deep crack. If dry moss is used for caulking, it must be pre-tedded in water. For this, the moss is put in a bucket, a pelvis or other container and poured with water for 30 minutes. After that, the water is drained, the moss is pressed.

The rollers roll out of the finished softened moss and pushed into a crack with a wooden blade - "panty". The moss layer is sealing, by tapping on a shovel with a color or hammer. Moss is seal until the layer does not spring.

Moss finally dries in 2-3 days. During this time, he "unfolds", increases in the amount of up to 20% and reliably clogs all the gaps. After drying, the moss surplus, protruding from cracks, clipped with a petal circle.

All the considered cracking options are suitable for both exterior and the inner walls of the church. They are harmless to wood, restore the strength characteristics of the log cabin, eliminate cold bridges.

Each host when building a bath is thinking about the question than to lure in the already constructed bathhouse, which are very visible. After all, how tightly did not fit the timber during construction, the seams still remain. And through them will be a precious heat that will create uncomfortable conditions for bath visitors.

Consequently, in the winter period, heat in the brusade can be saved only if all the joints, cracks and seams between the crowns are shown. Moreover, seeding seams in the bath should be carried out with special care.

Wood itself, by virtue of its natural features, can change volume and size. And in the bath, due to permanent temperature drops, this is especially noticeable, as cracks appear on the logs themselves, and gaps may form between the fellows. This leads to the fact that the bath structure becomes unprotected from the wind and cold. But this problem is quite solved, and insulation does not require large material costs. But insulation begins even during the construction of the bath when the primary sealing and sealing of the baths is carried out.

And then a completely natural question arises: "What still smeared in the bathhouse and ensure its thermal insulation?". You can use traditional materials as sealants that are usually used when the crowns are placed: pacles, moss. And the seams of seams in the bath will fit modern materials providing thermal insulation in wooden structures.

Modern hermetic materials

Modern thermal insulation materials are elastic and elastic, so they are quite widely used, solving the question: how to close the seams in the bath.

Their feature is that it is easy to work with such sealants, dry quickly, if necessary, apply several layers if necessary. And it is convenient and profitable.

In addition, modern hermetic materials have high adhesiveness, which significantly increases thermal insulation properties, are not afraid of lowering and air temperature drops and wet environments. But perhaps the most important thing - do not prevent the ventilation of the room and safe for health. Sealants are made not only sealing the seams of the bath, but also of any splits and cracks, which in time are formed on wood.

Among the latest materials to maintain heat in the bath should be noted special sealing tapes. They need to be distributed in space between the timber. They are almost not losing, which means that it does not need to use other hermetic materials, which creates additional savings. In addition, such a sealant can change its form when the logs begin to move during the natural shrinkage of the bath.

Old traditional hermetic materials will not let

If, when solving the question, how to close the seams in the bath, you stopped at the original Russian materials: moss, palable, jute, then the process itself will be more time consuming, and special skills will be required. Natural sealants have a mass of superiorities in front of artificial:

• Their composition includes one hundred percent natural materials to which environmentalists cannot present any complaints.
• Moss and jute do not produce warm air out of the room and do not let the cold.
• They have excellent absorbent qualities, which is very important in constantly wet bathrooms. Therefore, it is not necessary to worry about the walls.

But in the use of such materials there is one inconvenience: monitor the tightness of the seams will have to be at all time the construction of the structure, and not only at the end of the shrinkage.