Why is dracaena dropping leaves. Dracaena - diseases and treatment with a photo. When do I need a transplant?

Dracaena is a spectacular evergreen. It can be found both in apartments and in office premises. Amateur gardeners and designers, she is appreciated for its attractiveness and unpretentiousness. However, despite the undemanding and lack of whims, dracaena suffers from unintentional errors in care, attacks of pathogenic fungi, bacteria, viruses and harmful insects. This negatively affects her presentability. Therefore, you need to know what symptoms are characteristic of a particular disease or pest, and how to deal with them.

How to create an optimal microclimate in dracaena

Dracaena is quite unpretentious, and there is nothing complicated in creating an optimal microclimate for her at home. But the requirements of the plant should still be listened to, trying to create an atmosphere as close as possible to the one to which it is used in nature.

Dracaena - a popular (not least because of its unpretentiousness) houseplant

Table: Suitable conditions for growing dracaena

Factor	Recommendations
Location	Nearby (1–2 m) from a window facing east or west. Putting close to the south window is not recommended to avoid sunburn. In summer, if the dimensions allow, you can move the container to fresh air. Dracaena loves him, but does not tolerate cold drafts.
Lighting	Diffused light or light partial shade. Species with variegated leaves are more demanding on lighting. All dracaena can exist in fully artificial light, if daylight hours last at least 12 hours.
Temperature	In spring and summer it is moderately warm (20–25ºС). Dracaena does not tolerate heat well. In winter, it is slightly lowered to 17–19ºС. The lower limit is 15ºС. Exceptions are fragrant dracaena, Hooker, Dragon (they suffer a short-term decrease to 10ºС). All species react negatively to sudden changes in temperature. A difference of 10 ° C or more can lead to the death of the plant.
Air humidity	Normally exists with a standard air humidity of 40-50% (especially dracones of Dragon and Godsphere are undemanding to it), but with gratitude responds to any measures to increase it. The only thing you should not do is pour water into the sump. In winter, working radiators dry the air very much, so every 2–3 days it is recommended to spray the surrounding air with warm water. In the summer, in the heat, you can spray the plant itself, but so that the drops do not fall into sockets, or arrange a shower, covering the ground with polyethylene. Be sure to wipe the leaves with a wet cloth or sponge at least once a week.

Choose a place near the window to the dracaena, it is very difficult to put it on the windowsill because of the dimensions

In addition to the optimal microclimate, a great influence on how the plant feels is provided by timely top dressing and the correct watering regime.

In summer, you need to allow the soil in the pot to dry about 4-5 cm deep. This can be determined by sticking a wooden stick in the pot. One procedure in 2-3 days is enough. In winter, intervals are increased to 5–7 days. In wet soil, when cool, rot quickly develops. Broad-leaved dracaena need to be watered more often - they have a larger evaporation area. An obvious signal is drooping, toned leaves. And do not forget to loosen the soil after each procedure.

It will also be useful material about the conditions of the Dracaena Sander:

As for top dressing, there are special fertilizers for dracaena. The tree is watered with a nutrient solution every 20-30 days, after about half an hour it is well moistened with soil. If a universal tool for indoor plants is used, pay attention to the composition. Excess phosphorus and nitrogen can lead to a deterioration in the appearance of leaves. And dracaena categorically does not tolerate fluoride.

Video: home care and flower maintenance

Diseases and pests typical for dracaena and their prevention

Dracaena, which is properly looked after, is quite resistant to damage by various pathogenic fungi, viruses and bacteria. Most often, this kind of plant problem is the result of unintentional host mistakes. An invasion of pests, even a massive one, is also unlikely to lead to its death, but it will cause a lot of trouble to the grower.

The most dangerous for it are all kinds of rot, as well as bacterial and viral diseases, which cannot be cured with modern means. In this case, the plant needs to be destroyed as quickly as possible, no matter how sorry it is. Otherwise, you may lose the entire collection.

Most often, to avoid problems with dracaena, competent prevention is enough:

• quarantine for newly acquired plants for 25-30 days;
• regular inspections of the entire collection (ideally through a magnifying glass) and immediate isolation of “suspicious” specimens;
• free, without crowding, placement of pots;
• frequent airing of the room and maintaining high humidity;
• placing indoor and cut flowers as far apart as possible, especially if it is roses or chrysanthemums;
• mandatory sterilization before using pots, substrate, any tools;
• treatment of all "wounds" inflicted on dracaena in;
• implementation of recommendations for plant care, especially those related to irrigation and fertilizing;
• maintaining cleanliness - regular dusting from leaves and other authorized water procedures.

Diagnose a problem

The plant gives the grower unambiguous signals. Deterioration of his appearance is a clear sign of health problems. It is important to correctly interpret these signs, and know what to do in each case.

Table: Symptoms and Possible Causes

External manifestations	Possible reasons
	Mistakes in leaving	Disease	Pest
Yellowing and fading leaves.	Their life span is about two years. Otherwise, excessive irrigation
Turning pale, fading leaves, deforming, thinning trunks.	Deficit of light.
Falling green leaves.	Unsuitable room temperature (both high and too low), constant cold drafts.
Drying, curled and falling leaves.	Too scarce watering.
Dry brown leaf tips.	Low humidity in the room.
Dry tips and small areas of dead tissue on the leaves.	Excess fluoride in the soil - the use of unsuitable fertilizers or irrigation with hard not settled water.
Leaves that lose color saturation and yellowish or almost discolored spots on them.	Burn from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. It is almost inevitable if the plant has been sprayed before. Drops of water focus the rays no worse than lenses.
Yellowish-white spots on the leaves, dry edges.	Low temperature in the room or its sudden changes.
A discolored “watery” border around the edge of the sheet.	Excess fertilizer in the soil (too frequent fertilizing).
Blushing leaves.	Unsuitable too heavy soil with a predominance of peat.
Fine white crystals on the back of the sheet.	A natural phenomenon provoked by a single plentiful watering in combination with high humidity.
Slow growth or its complete absence.	Unsuitable soil, lack of top dressing for a long time or overly tight pot.
A flour-like coating on the leaves.
Browning soft-touch barrel.
Brownish spots, gradually pulled by a gray "pile".
Dark "watery" spots, softening tissue.
Yellowing leaves, covered with dark brown spots.
Reddish-yellow, gradually browning spots on the leaves.
Brown spots with bright green border on the leaves.
Small beige spots with a white dot in the center.
Elongated beige spots with a pale red border.
Blurry brown spots with yellow-green border.
Dark "watery" tips of leaves, "sores" on the trunk.
Brownish spots and stripes cast in bronze.
Yellow spots on leaves, braided by petioles.
Silver “scratches” and small black dots on the leaves.
Brown "plaques" on the leaves, reddish-yellow tissue around them.
Small lumps of whitish substance in the axils of the leaves and in the ground.
Many small yellow-green or black-brown insects on the underside of leaves and sticky drops on them.

What the mistakes in leaving lead to: examples in the photo

   Dracaena, which has leaf tips dry, suffers from too low humidity or sunburn. Dracaena leaves can be dropped for several reasons, including natural ones. So most often it looks like dracaena before dropping leaves Dracaena can be very easily burned if sprayed leave the plant in direct sunlight Browning drying leaves of dracaena mean a long neglect of the plant's need for moisture The yellowing of the leaves of dracaena responds to overflow

Diseases and how to cope with them

Of the fungal diseases for dracaena, the most dangerous are all types of rot, which develop very quickly when irregularly irrigated. If at the same time the room temperature is still below normal, this is almost inevitable.

Table: Dracaena typical diseases

Disease	Symptoms	Treatment and prevention
Small rounded pale brown spots on the trunk and leaves with a whitish dot in the middle, quickly changing color to black-gray. Gradually, the tissues in these places die.	Wipe the leaves and trunk with infusion of wood ash or colloidal sulfur. Treat the plant and soil with a solution of Topaz, Oxychoma, Kuprozan. Repeat three times at 10-day intervals. During this time, do not water with plain water, but with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. For prophylaxis, treat the flower and soil once a month with a 0.1% solution of Fundazole, Topsin-M.
Elongated beige spots with a reddish border on the leaves. Gradually they are tightened with a layer of greenish-gray plaque.
Phyllosticosis (brown spotting)	Blurry spots of irregular shape beige-brown with lime border. Then in the middle small black “grains” are formed. At risk are adults and especially old dracaena.	Cut off all infected tissue. Remove the affected leaves completely. Sprinkle the slices with activated carbon powder, chalk, cinnamon, treat with iodine or brilliant green. Spray the flower with a solution of Skor, Topaz, HOMA. Repeat three times (treatment once a week). During this time, add any biostimulator (Zircon, Epin, potassium humate) to the water for irrigation (2-3 ml per liter).
Dark brown “watery” tips of leaves, brown spots on them, small round “ulcers” on the trunk and petioles. Healthy tissues are separated from infected by a wide yellow “oily” streak.	There are no effective treatment measures. The development of bacteriosis is provoked by constant dampness in the pot, heat in the room, and alkaline soil unsuitable for dracaena.
Spotted wilting (bronze)	Leaves are almost completely covered with stripes and spots of irregular shape. Under artificial lighting, they are brownish, cast in the sun with bronze. Dracaena growth almost stops, new leaves are small and deformed.	With the help of modern means it is impossible to get rid of the virus. More often suffer from spotted wilting plants that do not feed. A deficiency of potassium and phosphorus is harmful to dracen.
Yellowness spreading through the leaves from bottom to top. Along the edge is a "watery" border. The top of the trunk wilts. He himself is thinning, changing color to brick. In especially severe cases, dracaena is covered with “weeping” brown spots.	Wash the flower under a warm shower, remove the affected leaves. Cut the slices. Spray the plant and spill the soil with a solution of Fundazole, Vectra, Benomila. Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 3-5 days. If there is no effect, use "heavy artillery" - Quadris, Bravo, Rayek. For prevention, add Fitosporin-M to water for irrigation. In the soil when transplanting add Gumistar, Trikhovit.
Root (black) rot	Brown roots and base of the trunk, mold on the soil and an unpleasant putrefactive odor coming from it.	Remove the dracaena from the pot, thoroughly rinse the substrate from the roots. Cut all dark and slimy to the touch, capturing 3-5 cm of tissue that seems healthy. Soak the roots for 20-30 minutes in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 0.5% Bordeaux fluid. Sprinkle slices with sifted wood ash, colloidal sulfur. Transplant the plant into a sterilized pot using new soil. For 3-4 months, pour 0.5% solution of Alirin-B, Baikal-EM, Previkur.
Bacterial (wet) rot	Dark "watery" spots on the leaves and trunk. Tissues in these places soften to a semi-liquid state.
Pale brown spots on the leaves, gradually dragging on a layer of grayish “pile” with multiple small black blotches.	Cut off all leaves infected with the fungus. Treat the "wounds." Wipe them and pour the soil with a solution of Abig-Peak, Kuprozan, Topaz. For a month, water the dracaena with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (0.25 g / l).
Brown rot (rhizoctonia)	Dracaena stops growing. Leaves turn yellow, discolor, then become covered with black-brown spots.	Stop watering immediately. After 3-5 days for 10-12 hours, soak the roots in a solution of Bactofit, Agata-25K, Maxim. Let them dry well. If there is no effect, change the pot and the soil.
Small brownish spots with a bright green border on the leaves.	Cut off all affected leaves. Provide the plant with optimal or near-keeping conditions. Follow the recommendations for caring for dracaena.
Leaves, as if powdered with flour. Gradually, this plaque condenses and turns brown.	Wipe off the leaves, washing them with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Powder them with powdered activated carbon or colloidal sulfur. Pour Dracaena with a solution of any fungicide twice with an interval of 10-12 days.

Photo gallery: how a plant affected by pathogenic fungi and bacteria looks like

Powdery mildew seems to be a harmless coating that is easy to erase, but it is by no means. Brown spotting is a rather rare disease. Dracaena, affected by brown rot, practically stops growing. Gray rot is easy to recognize, but not easy to cure. Tissues affected by bacterial rot turn in semi-liquid mass Root rot is very difficult to recognize on time, and the disease can only be treated in the early stages of development. Fusarium plants in the garden often suffer, but indoor plants are not protected from infection. The plant that suffers from spotted wilting can only be thrown out. It is still impossible to cure bacteriosis Phylostyctosis most often affects adults and old dracaena Greenish-gray plaque that appears as heterosporosis develops, contains fungal spores Tissues affected by alternariosis gradually die, holes remain on the leaves, holes remain on the leaves

Video: Dracaena Disease Treatment

Dracaena attacking pests

Most pests, even having bred in a multitude, will not kill dracaena. But this does not mean that they do not need to be fought. The plant did not “bring” any exotic insects from its historical homeland. You have to deal with the most common insects and ticks that feed on its juice.

Table: Common Pests

Pest	Symptoms	Control and Prevention Measures
Rounded "plaques" of different shades of brown on the back of the sheet. Gradually they “swell”, the tissues around them acquire an unnatural yellow-red color. In severe cases, the soil turns black.	Grease visible pests with shells with machine oil, acetic acid, and pure alcohol. After a few hours, the guards can be removed. Wipe the leaves with soap suds, rinse with water. Treat the plant with Actara, Permethrin, Fufanon. If necessary, repeat another 1-2 times with an interval of 5-7 days.
Thin, almost transparent filaments braiding the petioles. On the underside of the leaf are brown dots and blurry pale or yellowish spots around them.	Wipe the leaves with alcohol, vodka or any alcohol tincture. After 15–20 minutes, use a damp sponge. Sprinkle liberally and pour dracaena, for 2-3 days, if possible, tightly cover with polyethylene. To enhance the effect, put the same container with chopped onions, garlic, turpentine. If there is no result, use acaricides - Neoron, Agravertin, Sunmayt, Apollo. A minimum of 3-4 treatments with different drugs will be required. The interval between them is 5-12 days. For prevention, weekly spray the plant with a decoction of cyclamen tubers. Or irradiate the leaves with a quartz lamp for 2-3 minutes on both sides.
Discolored leaves, small black dots and silver-beige thin “scratches” visible on the inside.	Apply soap foam or whipped flea shampoo to the leaves, leave it under polyethylene for 2-3 days. Or spray it with an oil emulsion (35-40 ml of any vegetable oil per liter of water). Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 5-7 days. If there is no result, use Fitoverm, Spintor, Actellik (2-3 times with an interval of a week).
Lumps of dirty cotton-like plaque in the axils of the leaves and at the base of the trunk. Leaves quickly turn yellow and dry.	Spray Dracaena with a soapy alcohol solution. After 2-3 hours, wash the leaves with clean water. At the same time, remove the visible “lumps” with a wooden stick. Treat the flower and soil with infusion of tobacco chips, dry mustard, red pepper. Or apply on a leaf any preparation with Neem tree oil. If there is no effect, use Spark-Bio, Calypso, Mospilan (2-3 times with an interval of 5-10 days).
Large colonies of small insects clinging to the underside of leaves (especially young ones) and the top of the trunk. Then a sticky transparent coating appears.	Wipe off the insects with soapy foam. Cut off specially affected leaves. Arrange dracene souls. 3-4 times a day spray the plant with tinctures of orange peels, onion husks, needles, and any sharply smelling herbs. If there is no effect, treat Dracaena Biotlin, Admiral, Confidor-Maxi. Repeat every 5–7 days until aphids disappear completely.

Photo Gallery: How Dracaena-Infecting Pests Look

Aphids are distinguished by a rare “omnivorous”, dracaena is also part of its interests. If you do not pay attention to the mealybug, the plant will soon become covered with a continuous carpet of stirring “fluff”. Small black dots on the leaves are nothing more than thrips. Spider mite is not an insect , therefore, to combat it, not general insecticides are used, but special preparations - acaricides. Durable carapace of the scale shield - reliable protection against most folk remedies.

Video: common pests of indoor plants and their control

Plant Resuscitation

Most often, the dracaena requires urgent resuscitation, its owner is to blame. Most painfully, it reacts to improper watering - “drought” or “swamp” in the pot.

In the first case, cut off all the dry leaves to living tissue without touching the growth point at the top of the dracaena. Every 2-3 days, spray with a solution of any biostimulant. Rearrange as close to the south-west or south-east orientation window. Water according to the instructions. If the roots are not affected, after 2-3 months the dracaena will give new leaves. When the growth point has dried up, you will have to cut it off and hope that the side kidneys “wake up”. But the chances of it are not so many.

In a waterlogged substrate, the development of rot is almost inevitable. Drazen needs to be transplanted as soon as possible, regardless of the time of year. But this procedure does not guarantee success; it will be effective only at an early stage of the development of the disease. In the process, be sure to cut off all the roots affected by the fungus, do not forget to sterilize the new pot and soil. At first, be very careful with watering, but spray the dracaena daily. Select capacity according to the size of the root system (plus a maximum of 2-3 cm).

What to do with a broken dracaena palm

Dracaena is a fairly massive plant, so the aboveground part can simply outweigh the pot. Also, the “fractures” she often received are the result of the intense activity of children and domestic animals. In this case, do not be upset. If everything is done correctly, instead of one plant you will get two.

Broken dracaena - not a reason to arrange a tragedy

The easiest way is when the trunk broke, but did not break at all. “Tires” are placed on it, as if on an arm or leg, and the skin is fixed so that it covers the “wound” if possible. You can wrap strips of sphagnum moss or coconut fiber on top.

Do not forget to "seal" the cut

Otherwise, the remaining part of the plant in the pot:

1. Saw off the barrel evenly below the point of damage. It is advisable to do this according to the “scars” left from the fallen leaves.
2. Disinfect the section with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% m Bordeaux fluid.
3. Pour with liquid wax, paraffin, cover with garden var. If nothing is at hand, apply 2-3 coats of oil paint.
4. Put the plant in partial shade. Water sparingly. When growth buds form, return to normal care.

Also, material on methods of propagation of dracaena will be useful:

The side kidneys on the dracaena "wake up" for a long time, be patient

Broken tip:

1. Cut at an angle of approximately 45º. Try to do this as smoothly as possible, without “flaking” and chipping. Let it dry for 2-3 hours.
2. Tear off the interfering leaves. Put in a container with a biostimulator prepared according to the instructions. Succinic acid and activated carbon can be used (per tablet for every 200 ml). An alternative is rooting in wet perlite, vermiculite, sand. The slice will need to be sprinkled with any powdery root stimulator.
3. Change the water every 3-4 days, regularly moisten the substrate. Provide bottom heating, daylight hours of at least 12 hours and a temperature of approximately 25ºC.
4. Be patient. The rooting process can last 3-4 months or even six months. When the first new leaf appears, transplant the plant into soil suitable for adult dracaena.

Most often, the broken tip of the dracaena is rooted in water

Video: rooting dracaena cuttings

Dracaena, like any houseplant, is not immune from attacks of diseases and pests. However, it is quite resistant to them, and the tree, which is properly looked after, rarely suffers. Nevertheless, individual errors in care, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can trigger a deterioration in the appearance of dracaena. If nothing is done, the plant may even die. Therefore, it is important to be able to recognize what caused these or other symptoms, and know what to do to deal with the problem.

Many owners of dracaena face various problems in caring for such a plant. The most common - in dracaena, leaves fall. Let's find out what are the causes of this phenomenon, and what to do to save the flower.

Typically, this problem occurs due to errors made by the owners in the care process. Leaves may fall off when there is insufficient or excessive watering. There are also natural causes due to which dracaena leaves fall.

These primarily include the age of the plant. Another factor is the inappropriate microclimate. Despite the fact that this flower is considered hardy and resistant to various environmental conditions, there are certain conditions for its maintenance.

How to save a plant

In a healthy plant, the bark is quite dense. But as practice shows, dracaena may cause deterioration of the bark and leaves. If the reason is age, then nothing will be done with it. Each leaf lives a certain time. Subsequently, it turns yellow and falls off. This is a natural process, and you will not be able to resist it in any way.

However, there are cases when, at a young age, a flower loses all its leaves. The bark also deteriorates. The trunk becomes weak. Why does dracaena do this? Because you take care of her incorrectly. You are probably watering it wrong. It is not difficult to solve this problem: it is enough to ensure timely watering, and you will be able to maintain an attractive appearance of such a plant culture.

Often the owners of such plants are afraid of under-supplying water and carry out watering in a larger amount than the flower requires. Even given the fact that dracaena loves humidity, this cannot be done. As a rule, with an excess of liquid, dracaena drops its leaves in a rather short time. In this case, the bark begins to rot, as do the roots. What to do in this situation? It is enough to simply reduce the amount of water for irrigation and to make it not so often.

It is important to complete a series of immediate actions. Remove the flower from the pot without damaging the roots and bark (i.e. with soil). Remove some of the land to inspect the condition of the root system.

Remove those roots that have rotted. Allow the rest to dry, removing any remaining soil. Subsequently do not abuse the watering. The plant will stop dropping leaves as soon as the soil moisture level is normalized and the roots dry out.

If the dracaena has a soft trunk and leaves fall, this is a likely sign of improper watering.

To do this, dry the roots and plant the flower again in less moistened ground. The stem will wither away from excess fluid. As a result, leaves that can no longer be held on a weakened "skeleton" begin to fall. It is important to ensure that in the axils of the leaves after transplantation and watering, too, no water remains. Otherwise, they will rot and fall off again.

It is imperative to maintain the right microclimate. So you will be able to save even the "bald" flower. For these purposes, set the room temperature above +15 ° C. If the flower will be in a cold room for a long time, this will lead not only to falling leaves, but also to the death of the whole plant. In addition to optimal temperature conditions, it is required to regularly feed such a culture. This flower needs nutrients such as potassium nitrous, ammonium sulphide, potassium phosphate.

Recently, my dracaena began to lower its leaves and, frankly, I panicked. This has never been observed for her, although she is not a very long partner with me, so I decided that I need to deal with this problem myself, and then help others who encounter similar difficulties.

It turned out that there are many reasons why dracaena leaves fall, and they can all be of a very different nature. For example, one of the possible options why the dracaena began to manifest itself so unhealthy may be moisture.  Humid air, an unfavorable amount of watering, the placement of other plants, moss nearby - all this can affect the life of dracaena.

A decrease in air humidity also affects this plant. As it turned out, often dracaena leaves are lowered if it is located in close proximity to batteries or other devices that drain the air. An acceptable percentage of moisture in the room where the dracaena lives is 20%, so you need to slightly moisten the air if the dracaena is more yellow and yellow, or, conversely, reduce the amount of moisture if the dracaena blackens, marks out and also leaves the leaves down.

Drafts  plus humidity - another enemy dracaena. It can not be placed in intermediate rooms, in corridors, near windows, where a draft is constantly walking. Firstly, the drafts immediately make the dracaena hurt, no matter in what condition it is, just like what happens to a person when he has a cold. They just need to be eliminated or the dracaena moved to another place to neutralize this problem.

Using the wrong fertilizers  their insufficient, excessive quantity is the next point that affects the fact that dracaena lowered leaves. What to do in this case? Deal with the amount of fertilizer that you have applied. An insufficient amount requires one more, control, top dressing, excessive - will affect somewhat worse and there will be more difficulties. You will have to transplant the plant, changing the soil mixture, using a completely new pot at the same time, then you will have to restore the dracaena health from the basic stage, maybe even refresh it with pruning so that it starts to recover more intensively and cope with a smaller volume of crown than it would have to if it were former condition.

Using the wrong fertilizer affects the dracaena much worse than you might think - it's like drinking an alcoholic drink instead of life-giving water when you are strictly forbidden. Instant effect: dracaena begins to wither before our eyes, leaves fall, the earth in the pot starts to react quite strangely, and the old, cheerful and beautiful dracaena perishes on your hands. In this case, my advice is always one, especially for beginning gardeners: always learn the rules for caring for dracaena. Pay attention to the fertilizer item, check what soil composition you have acquired or made on your own at home - what is missing in it, and what elements are too much, and only then choose the appropriate fertilizer, but in no case take it at random or for your reasoning - in the case of feeding dracaena, there can be no improvisation.

Dracaena lowers the leaves, all sleek some. How to raise them?)

If everything is all right with the roots, arrange a hot shower for the dracaena! So that the hand would tolerate the temperature of the water, the water should not be warm, nor boiling water, but hot enough. Cover the ground, wrap the pot with a bag, so as not to pour and redeem the foliage, within a minute, you can slightly less.

maybe she is standing in a too sunny place, maybe there is not enough water for her (then you need to spray on the leaves). and the most likely option is to transfer it to a larger pot ..

In mine it happens when I forget to water or the sun falls on the leaves.

And still need to be fed liquid fertilizer for palm trees.

Watering should be done on time and fertilizer should be applied at least once every 2 weeks.

It stands in the sun, maybe I also had this and the leaves turned yellow, put it in the shade and now, it feels great.

Try changing the location, if she likes it, she picks up the leaves within 5 minutes. Still, she can lower them from heavy watering. So do not try to spray better.

indoor-plants-tips.ru

Why did dracaena drop leaves?

Dracaena  their leaves leaves  seldom. If this happened, it means they did not take good care of the plant, or for a long time they were not at home.

It should be noted that dracaena  very sensitive to drafts. If put on a draft, then not only the leaves will lower.

Also, you can not put a flower in bright direct sunlight.

Unnecessary plant transfusion.

Moderate watering will save the dracaena from root decay.

More often the plant must be sprayed. She likes this dracaena, and the leaves will stand like ears in a hare in the cold.

The land in which the dracaena is transplanted or planted should not be heavy. It should be well filled with oxygen. It is possible, and it is necessary to make drainage on 1/3 of the subboil.

The soil often needs to be loosened.

Dracaena  will live longer.

Dracaena, although an unpretentious houseplant, but still to be beautiful and lush (the leaves looked up), you need to properly care for it. The first signs that the dracaena lacks care are dropping leaves, the leaves turn yellow and fall off too often.

Dracaena does not like to be watered too often. The earthen lump should dry before the next watering. Young plants need to be replanted every year and at the same time increase the size of the pot by 1-2 fingers so that the roots are not crowded.

Perhaps the cause of sunken leaves is a lack of nutrients. It is necessary to feed the plant at least 1 time per month (or 1 time in 2 weeks). I use vermicompost liquid for feeding.

Dracaena also loves the presence of oxygen at the roots. Therefore, you need to periodically loosen the soil on the surface.

In the summer, spraying is beneficial, but only this should be done in the evening, when the sun is not so strong (if you say your plant is on the balcony).

www.bolshoyvopros.ru

Dracaena - home care

Dracaena is a very popular houseplant with a large species and varietal variety. There are species that grow only in the wild, there are species that can survive only in greenhouse conditions, and there are indoor options that are unpretentious and do not require special attention. In general, the most common indoor dracaena personal care requires the most minimal.

Sometimes people subject to superstitions may wonder whether it is possible to keep a dracaena at home, to look for signs related to its room contents. Usually the harm of dracen is contrived and is nothing more than a prejudice. There are no restrictions on its content, except for the most obvious ones - the presence of allergies in any household. In all other respects, this flower will only benefit.

Dracaena is a flower with longevity. Her lifespan when grown indoors can be either five or fifteen years, and depends on the quality of care. How to care for dracaena at home so that she feels well and lives as long as possible? Follow these simple guidelines.

Lighting

Dracaena is a fairly photophilous plant, so you can place it on the eastern and western windowsills. The south side is also acceptable, but try to protect the plant from direct sunlight. In the midst of summer afternoon, it is better to clean it at partial shade. If the opportunity allows, provide the plant with diffused light - this will be the most ideal option.

If the lighting is insufficient, the leaves of the dracaena will begin to fade. A deep shadow will have a very detrimental effect: the leaves will quickly fade and die.

If the lighting is artificial, then this is also suitable for the plant, it is quite capable of growing and developing quite well.

Temperature

The plant prefers moderate temperature in the summer and cooler in the winter, but does not tolerate cold. Choose a warm place for him in the fresh air in summer - a balcony facing east or west is perfect. Remember the danger of direct sunlight. In the spring and summer, the optimum temperature is 20-25 degrees. In winter, Dracaena is suitable for a temperature regime of 12-15 degrees, but not lower, otherwise the plant will freeze and die quickly. Also, dracaena should be protected from drafts and sudden changes in temperature.

Watering and humidity

The plant is quite hygroscopic, so watering should be plentiful, but systematic. It is always better to slightly dry the plant than pour and rot it.

The intensity of irrigation depends on the location of the flower, the volume of the pot, soil composition and season. In summer, watering of dracene should be provided at least a couple of times a week, while daily spraying with water at a temperature a couple of degrees higher than room temperature.

In winter, when the air temperature drops to 12-15 degrees, watering should be reduced to once a week. Dracaena “falls asleep” during this period. An exception is when it is located close to a radiator. In this case, it is not necessary to reduce watering, nor the number of sprayings, since watering a dracaena at high air temperature should often be plentiful.

Regardless of the time of year, water should not be allowed to stagnate in a pot - the plant does not tolerate such an attitude. But you should not let the soil dry out much even in winter. As soon as the surface layer of soil dries up by three or better, even two centimeters (no more), then it is time to water the flower. Before watering, loosen the surface soil layer, this will improve its air permeability.

Spray leaves both on the inside and the outside, but always make sure that water does not accumulate, does not stagnate at the junction of the leaf with the stem - this can cause decay. Periodically, you can wipe the dracaena with a damp cloth, from time to time arrange a full-fledged warm shower, which will wash all the dust and dirt accumulated on the leaves, and also refresh the plant.

It is better to use filtered water for irrigation, but if this is not possible, then the tap water is defended for at least twelve hours, for better purification it is also worth boiling.

During the period of intensive growth (that is, from the beginning of April to the beginning of September), dracaena is fed with fertilizers. They do this using special mineral top dressings; their frequency is usually indicated in the instructions for use. This is usually every couple of weeks. Fertilizers must be used specialized, complex, which are sold in flower shops and are intended for indoor plants. Variegated varieties are best fed with special fertilizers designed specifically for variegated plants.

Timely transplantation is another guarantee of the longevity of your room dracaena. Since this plant has a strongly growing root system, it quickly becomes crowded in a pot. The plant just brought home from the store also always needs to be moved to a new pot, but this is recommended not immediately, but a month after purchase.

It is possible to roughly calculate whether a dracaena needs a transplant according to the following parameters: for example, if a plant is about half a meter tall, then it needs a pot of at least 20 cm in diameter. By comparing this proportion, you determine whether it is time for the plant to move to a new container. You can also proceed from approximate data that the transplant should be done every two or three years - it is during this time that the roots manage to grow well. But it is better to proceed not from generalized data, but to consider each case and each variety separately, since the dracaena must be transplanted on time, not allowing excessive root growth.

“Moving” is better to start in the spring, during the period of the most intensive growth, so the plant will take root better. When transplanting, try not to damage the root system of the plant. Prepare the drainage system in advance: pour, for example, expanded clay or pebbles on the bottom of the pot. The drainage system means a lot to dracaena, since its root system is superficial.

An ideal transplant scheme, with good care and rapid growth, implies an annual transplant into a pot that will be slightly larger than the old one. You cannot take a pot for dracaena “for growth”; there is a risk that this will lead to the death of the plant. But it is not worth transplanting a sufficiently old dracaena so often, in which case it will be enough just to periodically replace the surface layer of the soil with fresh soil containing a lot of nutrients.

You can buy ready-made soil for dracaena, or you can mix it yourself. Usually, turf and leafy soil with peat, sand and humus are mixed in equal parts.

This procedure has rather a decorative background, since it is not required to cut the dracaena for its own benefit. Trimming the stem stimulates the development of lateral buds and starts the branching process. This is especially true for such a species as dracaena edged: as it grows, the lower, older leaves die off, over time, all the foliage concentrates on the top. The remaining bare trunk doesn’t look very beautiful, which is why cut the dracaena to obtain side shoots.

By the way, in addition to the decorative function, pruning a dracaena indoor flower is its reproduction using cuttings. The mother plant will branch, and the new top-dracaena or stalk will give life to a new full-fledged flower.

The best time for pruning is the same as for transplanting, spring or early summer. The plant should already be old enough, at least thirty centimeters in height. The cut should be five centimeters below the tallest and youngest leaves.

When trimming, use a well-sharpened knife, charcoal or activated carbon; you can also stock up with Zircon. Cut the stem, sprinkle the place of cut with charcoal, and then treat with “Zircon”. Cropped cuttings can be used for propagation, namely, rooting in water.

Dracaena Care: Species Differences

Indoor flower Dracaena species and varieties can be very different. In general, care for indoor dracaenas does not differ much depending on their species and variety. But there are a few points that a grower should know.

1. Dracaena marginata (it is also fringed dracaena) is the most common and most unpretentious species of all domestic dracaena. Caring for her is no different from what was described above.
2. The Godzef dracaens and Dragon, unlike all other varieties, calmly carry dry air.
3. Fragrant dracaena, or fragrance, tolerates cold well. At a temperature of only +10, it can even bloom, although it does this very rarely in room conditions, despite the temperature regime created for it. She is also able to be quiet in the summer in the fresh air. For the rest of the dracaena, it is preferable to still be kept in the room and not to leave its limits.
4. Dracaena bent, or reflex, is the most capricious and demanding variety. It is usually found only in greenhouses, because it requires constant maintenance of a certain temperature, humidity and lighting.
5. Dracaena sander, that famous lucky bamboo, is unpretentious so that it can grow even just in the water. It does not require planting in the ground, but it is advisable to add mineral fertilizers to the water, since without them leaves will turn yellow at the dracaena. In this case, exclusively distilled water should be used, in extreme cases filtered. Using tap water can also lead to yellowing of the foliage.

You can read more about Dracaena by reading the article

Diseases and Pests

Like all indoor plants, dracaena has its own problem and vulnerabilities, diseases and its pests. The most common ones are discussed below.

Scabies, thrips, spider mites - these are the main pests that affect dracaena.

With thrips on the leaves, bright spots and silver stains appear. In this case, you can treat the leaves with a soap solution, leaving it for a day, and then rinse. If this measure did not help, then it is necessary to carry out the treatment of dracaena with insecticides.

The spider mite infects the leaves, leads to their yellowing, drying and death. A characteristic symptom of this disease is the presence of a web on the plant. In such a case, it is recommended to wipe the dracaena with a soapy solution and arrange a warm shower for it. If the measures taken do not help, it must be sprayed with Fufan or Fitover. The spider mite starts up with increased air dryness, and therefore one of the preventive measures of the disease is its timely hydration and periodic spraying of the plant with water.

If the leaves turn yellow and dry

Not always, when leaves turn yellow on the flower of a dracaena, this is due to the defeat of its pests. Perhaps the reason is insufficient care. Yellowing of the leaves occurs as a result of dry air, with insufficient watering and lack of fertilizer. Drying and curled leaves appear if the plant is too cold.

If dracaena lowered the leaves. The solution to the problem is at what exact moment this happened. Indoor dracaena can lower the leaves immediately after purchase, after transplantation (with soil replacement) and violation of the integrity of the roots, as a result of improper watering.

If the leaves just bought bought dracaena, there is no reason for panic - the plant just goes through acclimatization, gets used to the new conditions of light, temperature and humidity. Almost all dracaenes drop their leaves immediately after they have been brought home from the store.

If the leaves descended immediately after transplanting into a new pot, this is a sign of damage to the root system.

Insufficient air humidity and improperly organized irrigation regimes can also cause drooping leaves. Either the flower was flooded, or, conversely, dried.

The house palm of dracaena Marginata, the lucky bamboo of Sander, the blooming Fragrance - all these varieties of dracaena require a certain care, and this care has minimal differences depending on the species. Dracaena can be called a very unpretentious houseplant, because it does not require so much attention. Good illumination, sufficient humidity, timely transplantation - these are the requirements that are inherent in almost every indoor plant. So, if you decide to make yourself a dracaena, do not be afraid of the difficulties with her leaving, since there are no difficulties as such.

Dracaena - diseases and treatment with photo

Dracaena is a fairly unpretentious plant for home growing. However, receiving improper care, it loses its decorative appearance. Dracaena lowered the leaves, the tips of the leaves dry on her. What to do in such cases? So, experts consider the main problems and diseases of dracaena, their treatment with a photo.

Why do dracaena dry and yellow tips of leaves? Why did dracaena drop leaves? Reasons, treatment, photo

Typical diseases of dracaena and their effective treatment with an explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.

Why do dracaena drop leaves? Causes  may be the following: the plant goes through a period of acclimatization after purchase, a transplant was carried out with soil replacement, which violated the integrity of the root system, and the irrigation mode was incorrect.

Only a purchased plant must undergo a period of acclimatization under the new conditions. Dracaena is no exception. The level of illumination in the new room, humidity and air temperature - all this can affect the well-being of the flower. No need to worry if dracaena is only purchased and it has lowered leaves. For prevention, you need to inspect the plant carefully. If there are no pests on it, the root system is in order, the trunk does not rot - there is no need to take drastic measures. Experts recommend not replanting the flower within 1 month after purchase. After this period, transplant by transshipment and strictly follow the rules for caring for dracaena. As practice shows, all dracaena lower the leaves after the purchase. This is a normal occurrence. In a healthy flower, only the crown, that is, young leaves, will look up.

Dracaena dropped leaves immediately after transplantation. This indicates a violation of the root system of the flower, namely, very thin roots that form a spider web at the bottom of the pot. They are involved in plant nutrition and provide the plant with water. It is not recommended to transplant dracaena in a complete replacement of the soil. She is more likely to transship in a larger pot. Thus, the root system will not be injured.

However, if the transplant has already been carried out and the dracaena has lowered the leaves, while its lower leaves may turn yellow intensively, the following steps must be performed: spray the flower with a cyclone (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water) and place it under the greenhouse or a spacious cap. Leaves should not touch the walls of the greenhouse. At the same time, watering is significantly reduced. Before the next watering, the ground in the pot should completely dry (you can 1 time in 2-3 weeks). On the contrary, it is necessary to spray the flower very often with ordinary water in order to maintain high humidity under the greenhouse. The number of sprayings depends on the room temperature. The colder the less often. Cycron can only be used once a week. At the first watering, the cyclone must be added to the water for irrigation. This stimulates the growth of the root system. After a transplant with a violation of the root system, dracaena lacks moisture. At the same time, intensive watering will lead to decay of the root system. The plant will replenish the lack of moisture through the crown. That is why in a greenhouse they maintain high humidity.

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Reason: Wrong watering mode. In the first case, the amount of moisture is simply not enough for the plant to maintain normal leaf turgor. In the second - there is too much moisture, which led to the decay of the root system. Through damaged roots, the plant also does not receive enough moisture. Increasing the number of irrigations will not solve the problem.

If dracaena lowered leaves due to lack of moisture, what should I do?  It is necessary to place the flower under the greenhouse and conduct regular spraying. It is impossible to sharply increase the amount of watering, as this will harm the roots. Keep the plant under the greenhouse for 3-5 days. Watering the flower should be plentiful, but only after the earth coma is completely dry. Water from the pan must be removed.

Dracaena gets an excess of moisture. As a result, the root system does not cope with an excess of fluid and begins to rot. Damaged roots no longer absorb moisture from the ground, and therefore dracaena lowers the leaves. What to do? First of all, normalize watering. Next, you need to carefully, without violating the integrity of the root system, remove the dracaena from the pot by the trunk. Inspect the roots. If the root system is light yellow or white, but not brown, it is healthy. The plant is returned back to the pot and reduce watering. Watering should be plentiful, but only after the soil has completely dried in a pot.

If the dracaena lowered the leaves and its roots are soaked, flabby and have an unhealthy shade, this indicates rotting. Damaged roots are removed. The plant is transplanted into a new, special, slightly moist soil. Dracaena is placed under a greenhouse. Watering is minimized, and spraying, on the contrary, is speeded up. Can be added to spray water for cyclone. The plant is removed from the greenhouse when it begins to drive out new leaves.

Why do dracaena dry tips of leaves?  Reasons: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime is violated, heavy soil.

Dracaena is a photophilous flower, and therefore its tips of the leaves very often turn yellow due to a lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown under indoor conditions, the ends of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination with an energy-saving lamp up to 12 hours. The flower must be placed at the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows do not fit the flower.

You noticed that the dracaena looks bad, the tips of its leaves are drying. What to do in such cases? It is necessary to pay attention to the watering mode. Perhaps the plant is waterlogged. As a result, its root system rots, leaves do not get enough moisture through diseased roots, and therefore their tips dry. Dracaena is watered only after the soil has completely dried in a pot. Watering in this case is carried out abundant, so that the water comes out into the pan through the drainage holes. Water is immediately removed from the pan. Otherwise, the bottom of the pot will not dry out, the roots will rot. You can not put a pot of dracaena on wet expanded clay. To check the condition of the root system, the plant is carefully removed from the pot. Healthy roots will be light. Regular spraying will help the flower. it is possible to add cyclone or epin to water for spraying once a week.

Dracaena dry the tips of the leaves, if the room is low humidity. To do this, frequent spraying of the flower is carried out, a humidifier is placed next to it. During the heating season, do not place the plant next to heating appliances.

Dracaena does not grow, new leaves grow deformed, stems are thinned and extended. Reason: the plant lacks sunlight. Perhaps the flower is in the back of the room where the light does not penetrate, or the daylight hours are shortened due to the onset of autumn-winter. Experts recommend placing dracaena near windows on the south or southeast side of the house, but with mandatory shading from midday heat. To diffuse direct sunlight on the window, just hang a transparent curtain. In autumn and winter, it is recommended to illuminate the dracaena with an artificial light lamp (fluorescent or special phytolamp). In total, the duration of daylight hours for the successful development of leaflets should be 12-14 hours.

With the onset of autumn-winter (the period from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dracaena dormancy period, the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, reduce the temperature of the plant (up to +17. +18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and feeding are not carried out. During the resting period, the dracaena slows its growth, and therefore, in conditions of insufficient illumination, it does not drive out new, deformed leaves, its branches do not thin out.

Why does dracaena turn yellow and what to do?

Most types of room dracaena are very unpretentious in care: they do not need to be watered or sprayed every day, there is no need to put in bright sunlight and maintain a constant temperature level in the room. Spending just a few minutes a week on caring for a plant, you can get a very beautiful plant that will delight you and your loved ones with your look.

However, even with proper and regular care, the flower may begin to turn yellow, dry and lose leaves. Before fighting the investigation, it is necessary to determine the cause of the deterioration of its condition.

Why do dracaena leaves turn yellow:

Plant Age:  the life of a single sheet does not exceed 1.5-2 years. After that, it begins to gradually turn yellow, dry and eventually falls off. This, first of all, concerns the lower leaves of the plant, since they are the most mature and their life time is gradually coming to an end. Natural death of the lower leaves usually proceeds rather slowly.
What to do:  so that the plant does not lose its decorative effect, the ends of the dying leaves are cut to a healthy tissue. Even the third and the smallest part of the cut sheet will still work on the flower, so you do not need to delete the entire sheet at once.

Insufficient humidity. In some species of dracaena (Marginates, for example), the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry if there is insufficient humidity in the room.
What to do:  dealing with it is easy and simple! The leaves will no longer turn yellow and dry if they are regularly sprayed with water or increase the humidity in the room using a humidifier.

Overflow, excessive watering.  Yellowing dracaena leaves may be the first symptom that your flower begins to die due to excess moisture in the pot. Another characteristic sign that the flower is overfilled is that the trunk becomes soft to the touch.
What to do:  if you water the flower often enough and do not let the earthen coma dry out, then you need to take urgent measures to save the plant. The flower must be removed from the pot, dried roots, cut off those on which there is rot and transplanted into new soil.

Lack of moisture.  If you have not watered your dracaena for a long time, then it may begin to die from a lack of moisture and the first symptoms of this will be yellowing and wilting of the leaves.
What to do:  to avoid this, it is necessary to observe the regime of watering the plant: water it only when the earthen lump in the pot dries out completely, but do not delay with watering.

Direct sunlight. As already mentioned several times in other articles, all types of dracaena do not like strong sunlight and direct sunlight. It is very easy to determine that the plant turns yellow precisely because of strong lighting: in this case, the upper leaves, which are exposed to the sun's rays, become dimmer and burn out. In addition, excessive heating of the sheet (especially in the summer) leads to the fact that the sheet may overheat and dry out.
What to do:  rearrange the flower pot so that direct sunlight does not fall on it.

• Draft and low temperature.  The optimum room temperature for the flower is 18-25 degrees, lowering the temperature below 16 degrees can be detrimental to dracaena. As well as cold drafts: they most often cause a deterioration in the health and appearance of the plant in the cold season.
  What to do:  if the pot is standing on the window or somewhere in the aisle, make sure that there is no draft and the temperature on the windowsill is not 18 degrees. Remember that even plastic windows can be blown out in strong winds. It is especially important to monitor this in the cold season, when cold air from the street can freeze the plant.
• Diseases and pests:  if you constantly care for a flower, observe all the conditions for caring for it, but the leaves still begin to turn yellow, then a possible cause of this may be some kind of disease or pest.
  What to do:  try to treat the plant with a special drug (if you don’t know which one to use, go to the flower shop, describe the symptoms of the disease, and the sellers will tell you which drug is best used). Even once, sometimes it can be enough to make your plant healthy again.

Dracaena leaves turn yellow. Care. Transfer*

# 1 Nastya

# 2 Natali

I know. that the lower ones should die off every two years, but mine all this happens somehow abruptly: about 6 pieces have already fallen off in the last month, and at least one more is going to (and she has only three tops) Is this normal?

Nastya, two years is the average life span of a dracaena leaf. And "leaf fall" she usually twice a year, in spring and autumn. This is not a gradual process, but rather a sharp one - many leaves turn yellow and dry at once. Moreover, the dates of leaf fall may shift depending on the weather. Mine this spring too late, leaf fall is just ending (usually this happens in April).
Six dead leaves on three trunks - this, believe me, is very small. The older the dracaena, the more leaves will fly from it. And you shouldn’t be afraid of it. Although I sometimes feel uneasy, I begin to twitch - do I fill it? 🙂
If the roots do not rot, then there is no reason for concern.

# 3 sem

# 4 Lena

My drake (like Kanzi) after we got it started having problems with leaflets. The lower leaves dry out the tips (until black), but a week ago I noticed light yellow spots on the same leaves.

Light yellow spots can also appear from an overabundance of light (in any case, in marginata). But in principle - yes, it seems that she was frozen (yukiyas are more frost-resistant). The medicine is epin, or analogues.

# 5 sem

# 6 Lena

And with leaves what to do then?

Do not trim - they themselves will disappear. She’s been ill now, is getting rid of herself and will go on growing. It's good that spring is in the yard.

# 7 GalGa

The lower leaves dry out the tips (until black), but a week ago I noticed light yellow spots on the same leaves.

i won’t say anything about yellow spots, but I'm sure I'm black from the fact that I froze. Recently, she brought the same dracaena from Natasha and did not save it. I carefully trimmed all the black ends with scissors, leaving a border of no more than 1 mm. The lower leaves of 2 pcs had to be completely removed. Now the bush on a small leg turned out. What is there to do. If you do not want to apply with a bush, you can overroot when it dawns. I have just one of the tops, reassigned by Natasha, from her old dracaena. The plant hurt for about 2 weeks after moving. Then the neoplasm of the spots stopped. Now new leaves, which were not visible, have grown by half a centimeter.

# 8 Natali

# 9 standby_md

# 10 Xu

on them like that. um .. like specks (2-3 mm in diameter) faded if you look at the light from the bottom of the sheet. If you look at them from the outside of the leaf, they are like tubercles. The leaf itself is dark green, but these tubercles are more faded. What is this? Is it a false scab? Or should it be for dracen?

I don’t know if dracenes have such things
You start digging into a book about illnesses - it blows your head
Found: spots - convex, first pale green (then reddish-brown) - signs of poor lighting with excessive watering
or! watering with cold water, sunburn.
Maybe while being transported (or in the store) the conditions were inappropriate?
Infectious diseases and pests with almost the same symptoms.
IMHO, you just need to watch these spots - whether they will increase, whether they appear on new leaflets. You can think of anything.

# 11 Lena

Girls, and I, too, bought myself a drake.

# 12 sem

# 13 standby_md

Transplant, definitely! In peat, probably? They torment them all in peat. Roots - there are, but I don’t know what they suddenly decide to grow from. There should definitely not be any bulges! I do not know hto / what it is, but. A lot of leaves hurt?

The roots of her already stuck from the earth stick out somewhere about 5 cm + small, very thin - also above the ground. Earth - it looks like peat. So how do I transplant her? Rinse the earth completely off the roots or is it enough to top it up? I read that they do not tolerate a transplant.
Spots are not on all the leaves, but only on some. I specially donated one sheet to see what it was. I fingered it with my fingernail, and there simply a plate of the sheet came off, as if hollow inside. In short, I do not know what it is. I will watch the spots. But every fireman I have already processed it with agravertine.

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•   Dracaena - how to care at home Dracaena belongs to the asparagus family. In nature, it grows in South America, India, the Canary Islands, Central and East Africa. The name of the plant comes from the Greek language. It means "female dragon." Such a name [...]

We liked this plant due to its unpretentiousness and graceful beauty. Perhaps, dracaena is one of the few palm trees that are able to grow in a closed environment without special supervision. Therefore, if you decide to get a room palm, you will have plenty to choose from. After all, variegated African women have varieties for every taste! Dracaena flower is a home photo and care in this material.

Family:  dracenic. Bloom:  depends on the species. Cultivation:  simple.

Dracaena flower - striped dragon

Previously, dracaena and all its species, and it has about 80 of them, belonged to the asparagus family, and only recently found the eponymous "family" of dracaenas. The name comes from the Greek word "dracaina", which means "female dragon." It is not surprising that the people called the plant "dragon tree." And one of the varieties has a symbolic meaning at all: it is believed that the tree grew on the spot where the dragon’s blood was shed ...

A characteristic feature of dracaena of this species is red resin, which is used as a coloring matter. From ancient times dried red juice was served as dragon blood and used for embalming. Dragon dracaena is considered a symbol of the island of Tenerife, local residents consider this magnificent tree sacred. The variety is distinguished by its impressive size, sometimes up to 30 m high and unusual shape of the crown. The tree is a long-liver, the oldest was found even before the development of the island, the trunk girth was 15 m., And according to various sources, it was several millennia old.

The dragon tree can be called one of the most useful: all varieties are volatile plants that cleanse the air of harmful fumes. Filter plants.

Do you know ...
The popular bamboo spirals that we see in bouquets and floral arrangements are not bamboo at all, but one of the varieties of dracaena, namely Sander.

The birthplace of these many plants is Africa, some dracaenas feel comfortable in South Asia, the tropics of Central America, Australia and New Guinea. Dragon tree is often confused with cordilina, which is smaller. In the landscaping of the premises, several of the most decorative types are used. Dracaena home photo and views.

Fragrant Dracaena - African with a powerful trunk and wide leaves, blooming with white and very fragrant flowers. In shape, they are similar to flowers of Sansevier. The dimensions of the plant require a lot of space, it can grow to the ceiling.

d. fragrant
d. fragrant

Another flowering species, Dragzen Godzeff, she surkolosa - this is the most unusual and rare variety. Three varieties are known: Punctulata, Florida Beauty, and Milky Way. This species pleases with flowering on any windows, even oriented to the north side, requires support in the growth process, reaches a height of 3 m. The flowers are small, white, with a pleasant smell. The leaves are shaped like hoya leaves.

d. Godzeff
d. Godzeff Florida Beauty
d. surkolosa Milky Way and Punctulata

The flower of Dracaena deremensky became the progenitor of many spectacular varieties. These are miniature shrubs with fringed broad leaves, approx. 80 cm. Lemon Laim and White Stripe, Kanzi and White Jewel varieties are very beautiful. As they grow, the lower leaves fall, forming a dense, but short stem.

d. Deremenskaya Kanzi and White Jewel
d. Deremenskaya White Stripe and Lemon Laim

Dracaena bent away is very sweet, until it exceeds 40 cm, then the trunk begins to bend, and when shifted, it twists. Therefore, this species requires careful shaping and multiple cropping. The most beautiful varieties are Song of India and Song of Jamaica. By the way, this is the most capricious of room types.

d. bent Song of India and Song of Jamaica

The most famous fringed dracaena has varieties with bright pink, cream and light green stripes on the leaves: Colorama and Magenta. An evergreen tree grows up to 3 m tall and often forms several tops. The variety with a narrow filamentary border along the edge of the sheet was called Dracaena Marginata.

d. Marginata
d. Bordered by Magenta and Colorama

According to an ancient Aztec legend, the dracaena flower is considered a tree of happiness. So, the warrior, who once fell in love with the daughter of the high priest, was doomed to suffering. The father of his beloved was ready to give him his daughter as a wife only if leaves grew on a stick stuck in the ground. For five days, the lover desperately watered a lifeless stick, and on the night of the full moon it came to life. Since then, a twig cut off at midnight on the full moon is considered a symbol of eternal love!

Care Rules

These palm trees are the best-bought plants, they can be grown everywhere, they are extremely hardy and do not require custody. Despite the abundance of species, the growing rules for all are approximately the same. The site flowery-blog.ru will tell in more detail.

Temperature and lighting

Dracaena and its species are photophilous, but in different ways. In the direct sun, only fringed, without fear, put up, the rest can get burns. The very best lighting is the morning sun, or bright diffused light. In winter, so that narrow slightly colored leaves do not grow, the plant needs to be additionally illuminated. An exception is Godzeff's dracaena (except for its variegated species), she prefers bright diffused lighting, but she will calmly suffer a lack of light in winter.

Dragon palm grows well in room conditions, the minimum allowable temperature is 15 degrees with sparse watering, and the most comfortable approx. 25, provided that the room is not stuffy.

Watering and humidity

Regular, and most importantly moderate watering is the key to good growth and development of a room palm. A dragon tree easily tolerates a temporary lack of moisture, but a systematic overflow in a compartment with a lack of light and low temperature is harmful to the roots. Depending on the size of the pot and temperature, you can water in 7-12 days. 8 important watering rules.

Humidity does not play a special role in the growing process, but spraying will not hurt, especially in the hot season. In addition, it is periodically necessary to clean the leaves of dust with a soft cloth. Sheet top dressing.

Fertilizers and fertilizing

During active growth, the dragon tree requires regular feeding. It is carried out 2 times a month with any fertilizer for decorative and deciduous. In summer, you can alternate mineral mixtures with organic top dressing. In winter, if there is growth, you can maintain the plant by fertilizing 1 time in 2 months. If the flower hibernates in low light and humidity conditions, it is better to exclude any fertilizer.

On a note
Flowering occurs from December to April. With artificial pollination at home, round fruits with seeds can be tied.

Reproduction and transplantation

Dracaena transplantation is performed once a year for young specimens and every 3 years for adults. For large palm trees, only the top layer of the substrate in the pot can be changed annually. When choosing a pot, it is important to consider that the root system of dracaena is voluminous, so the plant needs a spacious pot with good drainage. In this case, it is better to give preference to sustainable ceramics! A good time for a transplant is the end of winter or the beginning of spring.

The substrate should be loose, nutritious and slightly acidic. How to determine the acidity of the soil. For the mixture, they take garden soil, peat, sand and a little leaf or coniferous humus. In the absence of the necessary components, you can confine yourself to garden soil and purchased peat mix, which are combined to achieve the optimal consistency. How to make soil for flowers.

Most bushy varieties initially have a beautiful, low rosette of leaves, but with age, the stalk is gradually exposed and they become “false palms”. Top trimming stimulates branching. Dracaena Marginata (bordered) is also amenable to formation, from the trunks they make “candelabra” with three or five horns, “dead loops” and randomly twisted voluminous bushes. It remains only to maintain a given shape.

For the dracaena flower, propagation is carried out by cuttings in the spring. Most species are easily rooted by apical and stem cuttings in water, or a light mixture of sand and peat (photo above).

Problems in growing?

Dracaena flower care for which is not complicated, little susceptible to disease and rarely suffers from pests. But weakens and loses attractiveness in inappropriate conditions.

If the dracaena turns yellow ...

The most dangerous reasons for this behavior are excessive watering, lack of light, or low temperature. Any of these factors provokes rot of the root system and intense decay of the foliage. Carefully check the moisture level in the pot with a wooden skewer: if the soil sticks, watering should be postponed.

Clogged and heavy soil can also cause yellowing of the leaves. Earth must be loose and breathable. Feeding that supports beauty is also important. For decorative foliage palm trees, this is, first and foremost, nitrogen! When a flower grows for a long time in one pot, a strong deficiency of trace elements occurs, therefore periodically do transshipment.

If dracaena has dry leaf tips ...

This phenomenon is quite rare and not progressive. The reason for this is dry air, especially in winter. Try to place the pot with a palm tree away from heating appliances, more often spray the leaves. So that the defect is not very noticeable, you can trim the ends with scissors at an angle to the central vein.

If dracaena grows pale leaves ...

The flower of dracaena can change color in conditions of nutritional deficiency - in cramped conditions, inappropriate poor substrate, or in the complete absence of top dressing during growth. In addition, wintering becomes a difficult period, when the temperature is high and there is little light. Far from the light source, many palm trees change their direction of growth, stretch to the sun, and bend. From time to time it is useful to turn the pot and provide a sufficient level of lighting.

If there are spots on the leaves of dracaena ...

A palm tree could overheat in the sun, or freeze in a cold draft, so place your "pet" correctly. Low temperature plus high humidity contribute to the appearance of fungal diseases in the form of spots and plaque on the leaves. Diseases of indoor flowers.

• If dracaena lowered the leaves ...

This behavior is typical for palms after transplantation, especially dracaena Marginata reacts particularly strongly to it. Otherwise, it is worth checking the soil, it may be very dry and the plant is thirsty! In a compartment with yellow leaves, this may, on the contrary, be a sign of overflow.

Of the pests, the most dangerous is the spider mite, which tips will help get rid of: pests of indoor flowers.

Dracaena is a home photo of which you saw a popular houseplant that has many varieties of variegated and flowering in reserve. Growing it is not difficult!

If you still have questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. ? If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Dracaena: how to transplant a dragon tree

In recent years, dracaena has firmly established itself in the first lines of the list of popular indoor plants. Very similar to a palm tree, it is more patient and complaisant than the Hamedorei, Neantes and other eminent tropical beauties. Dracaena is easy to care for, at home it can reach three meters in height and live for several decades. But the longevity will be only that dracaena, which is properly looked after and which ensures a timely transplant.

Dracaena in natural and domestic conditions

Dracaena is a palm tree for busy and not too zealous gardeners. Although she is not even related to palm trees. Only in appearance it is very similar: a slender bare trunk with a cap of leaves on top.

In nature, dracaena lives for a very long time. On the island of Tenerife, a sacred dragon tree grew 23 meters high with a trunk circumference of 15 meters. Inside the hollow of this giant, locals who worshiped the dracaena built an altar. According to the biologist and educator N.M. Verzilin, who described this tree in the last century, sailors could see this tree back in 1402. On the same island, a 21-meter dracaena was found, which is still alive today, which is supposedly over 300 years old.

The false palm of the dracaena from the true ones compares favorably with its unpretentious disposition, modest requirements to the conditions of detention, and the ability to forgive the florists of their mistakes.

This plant, especially marginata (edged) and dragon tree, can green the dark corners of your home. It grows without problems in partial shade.  Varieties with variegated leaves feel better in bright but diffused lighting. Direct rays can burn delicate greens. Dracaena loves artificial lighting, so she often decorates offices.

Dracaena does not require special temperature, it is suitable for moderate, indoor: in summer +25 and above, in winter 18–20 degrees. That's just from its sharp drops and from drafts Dracaena must be protected - after all, she is a southerner.

It is advised to regularly spray dracaena and moisten the air for them. But this fully applies only to particularly delicate species, for example, fragrant and bent. As practice shows, the plant has already acclimatized to the dryness of our apartments.  Although, of course, a warm spray shower will be welcome. Dracaena will also like the hygienic rubbing of leaves from dust.

Summer watering of dracaena should be plentiful: the hotter, the more. In winter, water is given sparingly, but the soil is not completely dry. The lower the temperature, the less moisture. Excess water at the roots leads to disease. Therefore, it is useful to loosen the topsoil so that the air penetrates into the pot without hindrance.

Over the years, dracaena, like real palm trees, loses lower leaves. This is a natural occurrence. It is necessary to worry if leaf fall becomes massive.

To stimulate lateral kidneys and rejuvenate, it is recommended to cut the dracaena.  Healthy plants, growth not less than 30 cm, cut off the top with a sharp knife, about 5-6 cm. It can then be rooted. The wound must be greased with garden varnish or sprinkled with charcoal. After about a month, new shoots should appear under the cut.

Video: how to care for a lazy palm tree

How to plant or transplant indoor dracaena

Dracaena is usually transplanted every two years. But this rule can be violated. If the plant develops well, does not cause concern - it is better not to disturb it.  Even the most skilled transplant is very stressful for the plant.

The root system will inevitably be injured during this operation. But in some situations, transplantation is the only way out.

When you need to transplant a dracaena:

The root system of the dracaena develops inland, it has few lateral processes.  Therefore, when choosing a new pot, pay attention to the tall and narrow containers. After transplanting, there should be enough space below for root development.

The size of the container depends on the size of the dracaena. A guideline here can be a plant 40–45 cm tall, which requires a pot with a diameter of 15–20 cm. Every 2-3 years, the diameter should increase by 2-3 cm, not more.  You should not save money and take dishes for growth for dracaena. The roots will not be able to settle in a large volume of soil, the moisture will stagnate and the putrefactive process will begin.

To think for a long time what is better: plastic or ceramic - it makes no sense, the picky dracaena grows equally well in dishes made of any material. So here rely only on your taste and finances.

But be sure to check the drainage holes in the pot, and if they are not there, be sure to do it.  They must be large enough to rid the plant of unnecessary moisture.

Necessary soil and drainage

Dracaenas are not capricious in the choice of soil.  False palms like a breathable, moderately nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic (6–6.5 pH) substrate with a slight addition of loosening components and peat.

You can buy specialized soil for dracaena or palm trees, or you can make a mixture yourself. Here are some recipes:

• turf land - 2 parts, leaf and compost - 1 part each, peat - 0.5;
• on 2 shares of turf land - 1 deciduous and 0.5 coarse sand;
• on 2 shares of turf land, 1 share of sand, peat and humus land;
• equally leafy land, horse peat, chopped moss and half a fraction of perlite or coarse sand;
• into two parts of rotted compost or humus for part of leafy soil, sand or vermiculite;
• turf land, greenhouse and deciduous humus in equal shares, half of the share is river sand;
• universal soil for indoor plants half diluted with garden soil, add a little chopped moss.

Useful additives can be added to the soil mixture for dracaena: crumbs of charcoal or red brick.  Coal protects the roots and the earth from rot, and brick enhances friability and absorbs excess moisture. The proportion is approximately the following: on a bucket of soil 3-4 handfuls of coal and 0.5 kg of crushed brick. Like Dracaena and coconut fiber. Soak the briquette just before adding it: the coconut substrate greatly increases in volume.

Expanded clay, pebbles, vermiculite, brick chips, polystyrene are suitable for the drainage layer. Do not use drainage twice, especially expanded clay and brick, it is not worth it, it absorbs harmful salts.

Proper land sterilization




It is better to sterilize the soil in advance, about a month before the intended transplant. It should lie down and come to life.

The right time for a transplant

Young dracaena (3-4 years of age) are usually transplanted in a year or two, adult specimens every 5 years or less. You can deal with transplantation during the entire period of vegetation (growth), that is, from spring to mid-autumn. But spring (in March - April) relocation is the best option.  The plant has awakened from hibernation, is actively building greenery and root system. This means that the new land will be quickly and profitably inhabited.

However, in some cases it is necessary to change the soil and the pot even in late autumn. For example, a plant became ill from overflow, pests were found in the soil, or you purchased dracaena growing in the transport soil, and it is still far from spring. In an autumn transplant for a plant, there is nothing too extreme. Just take a closer look at the migrant and create milder conditions for him. If the dracaena does not take root, spray it with warm water with the addition of a stimulant (Zircon, Epin, Skor).

Transshipment is the best way to transplant

Transshipment is the most sparing type of transplant. It is suitable for healthy adult plants that need a little more room for growth. When transshipment, earthen is stored unchanged. And new soil is poured between it and the walls of the pot.  As a rule, dracaena perfectly tolerates this procedure. She does not have to spend energy on adaptation.

Step-by-step instructions for transshipment of dracaena

• Before transshipment for 3-4 days, do not water the dracaena, then the earthen coma can be saved.
• Prepare new soil, drainage and pot.
• At the bottom, pour a drainage layer, a little soil.
• Tilt the pot with dracaena or, if the size allows, turn over to get an earthen lump with roots. You can push it through the drain hole.
• Place an earthen lump in the center of the new pot, the top of the lump should be only slightly below the top of the container.
• Gradually sprinkle the earth from different directions, compacting with your fingers and shaking the pot.
• Do not fill the pot to the top to make it convenient to water the plant, and do not leave voids in the ground.
• After transplanting, water the dracaena well.
• Put it in a warm (+ 20–22 о С), slightly shaded place.
• Water sparingly for two weeks, avoiding overflow, occasionally spray. Observe the condition of the plant.
• If there are no problems, put the dracaena in a permanent place and take care as usual.

Transplant requirements after purchase

When buying dracaena, be careful. Look at the foliage, it should be clean with green tips.  Often in flower shops you can see plants with cut leaves. This means that they are incorrectly contained: in too dry air or without watering, and by cutting the ends of the leaves they try to mask the mistakes. Also inspect the lower part of the leaves and the stem: for signs of pests.

When you bring the dracaena home, do not rush to introduce it to the other green inhabitants. Keep the plant in quarantine for at least 2 weeks. During this time, problems not noticed in the store may appear. In addition, the dracaena must adapt to the new environment.

And two weeks later, it is necessary to solve the question: to transplant the dracaena or not. If there is no doubt in plant health, wait with a transplant until spring. There are some problems, for example, poor soil quality, replant your false palm at any time of the year. Usually store plants are kept in a peaty poor substrate. But for dracaena it is not so harmful, it, unlike cacti, is tolerant of peat. Therefore, when transplanting a recently purchased plant, do not clean the root system completely, but remove only what is left behind.

Landing and transplanting

• Pour a layer of expanded clay or other drainage into a new pot. On top of it is a soil mixture.
• Do not water Dracaena before transplanting for 3-4 days, so that the earth at the roots dries and does not crumble.
• Draw a knife or spatula along the edge of the flower pot, separating the earthen lump from the walls.

  Video: how can transplant dracaena

  Large dracaena transplant

  At home, over time, the dracaena grows into a three-meter tree. Such a giant is very difficult to transplant. It is much easier to update only the top layer (5-6 cm) of soil. Humus or other useful components are necessarily added to the new soil for nutrition.

  But sometimes transplants cannot be avoided. Then look for an assistant. Alone to deal with the transplantation of tall dracaena is very difficult.

  Stages of transplanting a large specimen:

• Before transplanting, do not water the dracaena for several days, so that an earthen lump is easier to remove from the pot.
• Prepare the soil mixture, drainage and pot.
• At the bottom of the tank, pour a drainage layer and part of the soil.
• Using a knife or spatula, carefully draw along the inner walls of the old pot to separate the grown roots.
• If the roots sprouted into the drainage holes, trim them.
• Get the dracaena with an earthen lump from the old pot (perhaps for this you will have to stand on a chair, holding the plant by the stem, and the assistant will pull the pot). Another option: carefully put the plant on its side and knock well on the pot, then carefully pull out the dracaena along with an earthen lump.
• Shake off the soil slightly, do not remove all. Remove too long roots from below, do not worry too much during surgery - dracaena will quickly restore what was lost.
• Transfer the plant to a new pot, set in the center and gradually fill the soil between the walls and the earthen lump with soil, slightly tamping it.
• Pour the soil around the circle, wait for it to settle, and add more soil. But do not try to fill the pot to the brim, otherwise it will then be inconvenient to water, change the topsoil.

For oversized dracaenas, so as not to transplant often, you can take the pot slightly for growth. And it is better to invest in ceramic. It is more stable than plastic.

Video: how to transplant a high dracaena

Transplant Care

After dracaena has moved to a new pot, it needs to create greenhouse conditions for a couple of weeks. This means that the plant is placed in a quiet and warm place without drafts, protected from direct sunlight. The best lighting is dim.

Water the dracaena very carefully.  After transplanting, the main danger is waterlogging of the soil. The roots have not yet penetrated into the new soil, moisture may not be absorbed and stagnate in the pot. This will lead to souring and rot. Pests are happy to settle in moist soil.

Transplant Issues

Most often, dracaena safely relocates from pot to pot and quickly adapts. But there are also problematic transplants. Then the plant becomes bored, the leaves wilt, the green hat of the foliage turns yellow. What is the cause of malaise? It can be assumed that during the transplant one or more errors were made:

1. Incorrect soil mixture. Dracaena does not tolerate heavy and too oily soil, soil with a high content of peat, which repels moisture, is not suitable for it. The solution to the problem is a new transplant into the correct land.
2. The new pot is too big. A plant weakened by a transplant cannot use all of the soil. Undeveloped soil will be constantly wet, then acidify, and the growth of putrefactive flora will begin. And there is not far from and to the rot of the roots. The way out is a transplant into a smaller pot with soil replacement.
3. Waterlogging after transplantation is the most common problem. Caring hosts water the plant, without waiting for the surface of the earth to dry out, the soil turns into a swamp, the flower becomes even sadder. To please, it is watered again. With such "care", a fatal outcome can occur. Do not water the plant until the top layer of soil dries 1–2 cm, remove water from the sump. If the situation is critical, try to dry the earthen room. Remove it from the pot and place it on paper (so that moisture is absorbed) in a warm and dry place. If you want to take care of dracaena, it is better to spray it, but also without undue enthusiasm.
4. Incorrect contents after transplantation. This often happens during the autumn-winter transplant. In a cool room, a weakened plant freezes. Put the dracaena closer to the warm battery, and so that it does not suffer from dry air, spray it, put nearby containers of water.

Yellowing and death of leaves

Yellow leaves and small leaf fall are normal in the first two weeks after transplanting. But if the fall of the leaves intensifies further, measures must be taken. Yellowing is a sign of overflow or airtight soil.  Reduce hydration. Change the soil if necessary.

  Dracaena yellow leaves - a serious reason to think about the grower

If the leaves of the dracaena have brown and dry tips, the air dryness is most likely to blame. Spray the plant and moisten the air. Another reason is overfeeding dracaena. After transplantation, it should not be fed for 2-3 months. Everything you need is already in the soil, if it is properly composed.

The tips of the leaves blacken in a too cold room or when touching a cold window pane.

Dracaena lowered the leaves

Video: Fix Transplant Errors

Cuttings

Beautiful palms are not easy to breed and only by seed. And the dracaena, so similar to a palm tree, is easy to grow from the cuttings. Roots and segments of the stem lend themselves to rooting.  Thus, you can not only get a new plant, but also rejuvenate the old.

We plant cuttings

1. In an adult and healthy dracaena, cut the stalk 3–5 cm with a sharp sterile knife: top of the stem with leaves.

A plant without a crown also does not disregard.  Sprinkle the wound with charcoal and dry. Spray the plant with growth stimulants. After 3-4 weeks, new kidneys begin to develop under the cut. Dracaena will receive a second life.

The amazing vitality of dracaena and its ability to reproduce formed the basis of the Aztec legend. According to her, the high priest, who did not want to give his daughter in marriage to a warrior, stuck a stick in the ground and said that if there were no leaves on it in five days, there would be no wedding. And he promised to execute the groom. The warrior began to water this stick. And on the fifth day, leaves grew on it - this was how dracaena was born. The Aztecs call it the tree of happiness.

Dracaena is also propagated by segments of the stem up to 12 cm. Sections are dusted with charcoal, the cuttings are dug in moistened sand and a greenhouse is arranged. Just don't confuse the top end with the bottom. Such cuttings root in 2-3 weeks.

Some gardeners create original compositions by planting several young dracaena in one pot. So they look more magnificent. However, do not plant old and young dracaena together. An adult plant will not allow a teenager to develop.

Rooting cuttings of dracaena

Reviews of gardeners: beautiful, complaisant, unpretentious

Dracaena is not a sissy. I had a cat drop it from a shelf onto a table: a pot to smithereens, a dracaena crown into a laptop ... A pile of land. fragments, broken leaves ... And her cat ate more than once. All dracaena nothing.

About the transplant. I usually put two pots in the bathtub - with a flower and a new one with a small layer of earth. Then I spill a pot of flower with water, then I pry off the ground with a small spatula, pull out a flower with a lump of earth - and immediately into the next pot. I top up the earth, tamp a little, spill water as it should. I leave it for 40 minutes in the bathtub so that the water is excess glass. All.

Olesya

http://www.woman.ru/rest/medley8/thread/4193523/

When transplanting dracaena, a prerequisite is that there should be no empty spaces in the roots, that is, the earth should be carefully distributed between the roots and roots during transplantation, so as not to rot, add coal powder, a little Fitosporin. Watering immediately is not necessary, in the new land and so there is moisture, the first watering in a couple of days. Drainage is necessary - I have 1/4 pot of polystyrene foam. But I would have cleaned the whole store land, just soak the roots in a bucket of warm water for 5 minutes and rinse them. I personally popped a bunch of earthworms. After transplantation, Dracene was sprayed with Epin solution every 10 days (3 times). The pot must necessarily be commensurate with the root stain - otherwise everything will rot. I have a big pot, but half a pot of land, as it grows, I will add land. You can’t dig the trunk - only roots should be in the ground.

Oksana

http://eka-mama.ru/forum/part58/topic139865/?PAGEN_1\u003d2

Too big a pot is not good either. At least pouring is very easy. I poured my favorite dracaena from great love thoroughly after transplantation. In a small pot, she simply swallowed water. And after transplanting into a large pot, out of habit, I also watered it abundantly. But is there a lot of land? and it keeps moisture. As a result, she hung all the leaves. I had to urgently change the land. Now she has come back. But the view is not the same as before. So, if you transplant into a large pot, then you need to be watered very carefully. Moreover, other dracaenas transplanted into the same pots with the same root system feel normal. I usually watered them. I didn’t try so hard.
If the roots stick out of the pot, it is necessary to transplant, since in the pan they begin to rot. I checked this on personal experience.

http://homeflowers.ru/yabbse/index.php?showtopic\u003d5583

My parents have dracaena at least 10 years old. It was brought once long ago from Spain in the form of a piece of the trunk. Once every couple of years, when it outgrows all possible sizes, it is mercilessly chopped into separate pieces, similar to firewood. These firewoods are scattered in glasses of water and perfectly take root. The first time, too, was scary, but over so many years almost all the processes have taken root. Already half of the city, probably, our offspring are growing!

frekensnork

http://forum.ditenok.com/showthread.php?t\u003d34842

It is no coincidence that Dracaena became one of the most popular plants. Its original leaves give an exquisite style to any interior. And to look after her is simple and pleasant. And even such a traumatic procedure as a transplant, a patient dracaena transfers with dignity. The main thing is not to disappoint this plant, to do everything according to the rules.

Causes of dropped leaves in dracaena

Dracaena is considered a very unpretentious indoor plant. She does not need special care. But in order for the flower to please the eye as long as possible with its splendor and beauty, respond in time to any changes in its appearance. What are the drooped leaves of dracaena talking about?

Why is dracaena letting go of leaves

We will analyze what causes this problem and what needs to be done to solve it.

Why do dracaena drop leaves?

There may be several reasons:

2. improper watering;
3. not suitable in size pot;
4. nutrient deficiency;
5. lack of moisture;
6. drafts and broken temperature;
7. the plant was frozen.

The soil should be moist, not moist. The plant is watered with settled water at room temperature, when the earthen lump dries by about 2 cm. The irrigation regimen is 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in the flowerpot, pour claydite or coarse-grained sand with a layer of 3-4 cm on its bottom, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from decay. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.

In the hot summer period, the flower needs to be sprayed. To wash off the dust and refresh it, we recommend once a month to put the plant in the shower, covering the ground with cellophane. After bathing the leaf growth point, blot with a napkin.

Close pot

The second reason that the leaves are constantly lowered down may be an improperly sized flower pot. If it is small, then plant nutrition is difficult. Roots need space. Check the tightness of their fit to the walls of the pot. If necessary, transplant a flower.

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

Lower leaflets may fall down due to insufficient nutrients. In a tight pot with a very developed root system, the earth quickly becomes poorer, the upper crown grows due to the lower foliage. During the period of active growth from April to September 1-2 times a month, feed the roots with pre-selected fertilizers. When watering, you can use liquid fertilizers according to the instructions.

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.

A flower loves moist air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the pot on a pallet with water so that the bottom of the pot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.

About the causes of drying of dracaena leaves and their methods





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Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. Evergreen palm up to 35 years old is considered to be young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

How to transplant Dracaena yourself and avoid mistakes

When do I need a transplant?

How to transplant dracaena at home? First of all, it is necessary to decide in which period it is best to take for a rejuvenating and stimulating flower growth procedure. The best time is the end of winter or the beginning of spring. As the plant wakes up after hibernation, and its vital processes become more active, dracaena transplantation at home will be the least stressful for it.



To clearly understand in what cases it is necessary to undertake the renewal of the soil mixture in a flower pot, select the following list:

8. it is recommended to transplant the dracaena into another pot if the rhizome has grown so much that it filled the container, and its processes can even be seen on the surface of the earthen coma. By updating the substrate and picking up a larger flower pot, you will create enough free space for your plant and stimulate the growth of shrubs;
9. transplantation of dracaena after purchase is another requirement for a grower. First, indoor flowers are sold in fragile plastic pots or flowerpots, not intended for long-term use. Secondly, you cannot be sure of the quality of the soil mixture and the absence of pests until you replace the substrate with your own hands;
10. it is recommended to plant dracaena in the event that you have excessively flooded the soil with water, and the dropped leaves of the plant and its decay on the face;
11. the soil for transplantation needs to be updated, since the substrate in which the indoor shrub grows has ceased to be nutritious. In addition, the earth becomes very clogged over time and begins to pass water and air poorly;
12. when a plant is infected with pests, not only its treatment with insecticidal drugs, but also transplantation of a home palm will help.



Knowing how to plant dracaena at home, and at what time is best done, you can achieve excellent results during the cultivation of shrubs.

What tools will be needed

To properly plant this homemade flower, you must clearly know what devices will help you in your work. It is not enough to decide what size pot the dracaena needs. Among the tools and materials that an experienced grower should have at hand, it is worth highlighting the following:

13. drainage;
14. high-quality soil mixture;
15. spray;
16. a container of water;
17. scissors or pruner.

Knowing how to properly transplant a dracaena, you stimulate your indoor shrub to even more active development.

Choosing the right pot

Perhaps you, as a beginner grower, can think about which pot to transplant the dracaena into. This moment must be given due attention. It is believed that a ceramic flower pot is best suited for dracaena. What is good about this material is its culvert properties, which is priceless for your indoor flower.



If you wish, you can buy a plastic flowerpot. However, in this case, be prepared for the fact that the irrigation regime will have to be observed with particular care. The water in the pot dries a little longer than in a container made of ceramics, so you can not overmoisten the substrate in any case. As for the size, it is better to buy a pot that is 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. It is impossible to plant the shrub in a too spacious container, since the plant will put all its strength into the growth of the rhizome, and not the stem part.

Which soil is suitable

How to plant dracaena and what kind of land this plant needs - it is advisable to find out these points in advance in order to prevent mistakes. Prepare the substrate for the indoor shrub yourself or buy the finished mixture for palm trees in a specialized store. If you decide to mix all the necessary components for the soil composition at home, you will need turf land, peat, leaf land, as well as compost.

Step-by-step instruction

Let's find out how to transplant the dracaena after the purchase in stages. Even if you are going to carry out this kind of procedure for the first time, there should not be any problems.



This process necessarily includes the following points:

18. approximately 3-4 days before the transplant, it is recommended to stop the substrate wetting;
19. at the bottom of the pot you purchased you need to pour pebbles, expanded clay or cracked brick - this material will perform the function of drainage;
20. carefully inspect the root system of the flower, if you need to trim old or damaged root processes;
21. place the plant in a new flowerpot, cover the roots with the soil mixture, and form a mound not too large around the stem - this way, water after irrigation will drain down.

To dracaena after transplantation did not lower the leaves, be sure to provide competent care for the flower, especially at first.

Further care and mistakes for beginners

In general, dracaena transplanted in spring or summer is treated under the same conditions as before the procedure. Do not leave the flower in the sun, as the plant may get burned. It is recommended to moisten the substrate 3-4 times a week. Do not forget to spray the leaves of the flower, as the plant is very fond of moisture. From time to time, fertilizers must be applied to the soil.



As for the mistakes, even if they are made, they rarely lead to the death of the bush. However, buying an oversized flower pot can contribute to plant wilt. The same can be said about the overmoistening of the soil substrate. Create favorable conditions for the shrub for growth, provide care for the dracaena based on the basic recommendations of specialists, and the plant will fully develop, and you can later transplant the flower without much effort.

Video "Dracaena transplant"

From this video you will learn how to properly transplant a dracaena.

Rules for self-transplanting dracaena

Most flower growers consider dracaena one of the most beautiful indoor plants. Dracaena is able to decorate any interior due to its unusual and spectacular appearance. Like any other plant, it will require a transplant. This process can be carried out immediately after purchase or after some time. A correct transplant will help to get rid of all sorts of problems associated with caring for dracaena.

Dracaena is one of the most beautiful ornamental deciduous plants. Most of them came from the tropics. About 150 varieties of this plant are counted, whose homeland is called tropical and subtropical Africa, as well as islands located in southeast Asia.

Regardless of variety, dracaena occasionally requires a transplant. into a larger pot. The need for this arises due to the fact that the root system of the plant does not tolerate crowding. It is recommended to transplant young dracaena annually with the advent of spring. For larger and adult dracaena, transplantation is needed as it grows. If there is no need to transplant the plant yet, in spring it is necessary to change the topmost layer of soil with heavier soil.

It is generally accepted that in emergency situations, dracaena can be transplanted even in autumn, despite the fact that the plant is preparing for winter sleep. Emergencies mean the threat of withering or drying out due to an overly tight pot, and the purchase of a young, new plant. After acquiring dracaena, a transplant must be performed in a few weeks, regardless of the time of year. This is explained by the fact that in the store the plant is placed in small pots, with improper soil, abundantly saturated with fertilizers designed to accelerate growth. All this can lead to the death of dracaena.

Of course, the dracaena transplant carried out in the autumn, is very stressful  for the plant. A natural reaction to it will be falling leaves or yellowing. It must be remembered that any indoor flower, including dracaena, is categorically not recommended to be disturbed in the fall. It is at this time that preparation for wintering occurs, and excess stress will cause depletion of the plant.

Before proceeding with the transplant, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the features characteristic of dracaena. Observing the simple rules, you can easily save yourself from the many problems associated with plant transplantation. The quality of the earth has a direct impact on the condition of the flower, its growth, proper development. In this regard, it is necessary with all responsibility to approach the choice of soil in which dracaena will be located.

The substrate, which has a direct impact on the further development, growth and health status of the plant, plays one of the most important roles in dracaena transplantation. Overall this the flower is picky enough  and is able to easily accept any soil. However, the most suitable option for the plant is peat-bearing land with an acidity level of 6.0-6.5.

If you have to choose between a ready-made purchased substrate and a self-prepared mixture, it would be better to completely rely on your own capabilities and feelings. The only exception to the rule is the use of sheet soil, which was previously in the garden or in the garden. This type of soil should not be used when transplanting, since it contains a fairly large amount of mineral salts and fertilizers.

The most suitable option is a mixture prepared from leaf, compost, peat and turf lands in the ratio 1: 1: 0.5: 2. In order to prevent soil caking, it is also recommended to add about a quarter of a pot of river sand. If it was decided to purchase a finished substrate, you need to pay special attention to the presence in it of the necessary nutrients and trace elements.

How to choose a flower pot

To date, the attention of gardeners presented huge assortment of flowerpots, among which it is difficult to make the right choice. Almost every person, first of all, pays attention to the pots having the most attractive external characteristics. However, such containers may in fact be unsuitable for use. In this regard, when choosing a new flower pot for dracaena, you must comply following recommendations:

22. In order for the plant to please the eye for a long time, a new flowerpot should be chosen, starting from the size of the root system. For example, with a dracaena height of about 40 cm, the pot should be at least 15 cm in diameter.
23. The diameter of each subsequent flowerpot should be in diameter 2 or 3 cm more than the previous. The grave mistake of some novice flower lovers is to buy a pot too large, taken with a margin. In such a container, the water will stagnate, having a detrimental effect on the health status of the plant.
24. Most gardeners are convinced that a ceramic flowerpot is best suited for dracaena. They justify this opinion with the probability of a better supply of the root system with oxygen, obtained due to the porous structure of the container. At the same time, it is believed that the substrate in this case dries out more evenly. In fact, as practice shows, in ordinary plastic pots, dracaena grows and develops no worse.
25. If the dracaena is old enough, it is better to choose stable flowerpot, with glassy outlines.
26. One of the prerequisites for choosing a pot is the presence of holes in the bottom, due to the fact that for dracaena stagnation of water in the soil coma can be fatal.

The dracaena transplant process

From how correctly and in a timely manner a plant transplant will be made, its further life entirely depends. It is highly recommended not to do this in the autumn. With the advent of autumn, the flower prepares for winter holidays and breaking this process can harm the dracaena.

For a transplant you will need:

27. A new flowerpot with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm larger than the previous one.
28. Soil purchased in the store or prepared independently.
29. Expanded clay or other drainage.
30. A sharp knife or pruner.
31. A vessel of water heated to room temperature.
32. Sprayer for water.

In a new pot, pre-treated with hot water, it is necessary to pour prepared drainage layer. The height of this layer is determined by the presence of perforation in the bottom of the tank. If there are no holes, then the drainage thickness needs to be increased, and if there is, then for a medium-sized pot, the height should be 2-3 cm. After completion, you need to very carefully remove the dracaena from the previous flowerpot, carefully freeing the root system from the old soil. If there are rotting sites on the roots, they must be removed and sprayed onto the dracaena root system using a spray gun.

Dracaena should be placed in a new flowerpot and carefully fill in the remaining space among the roots. Do not allow appearance in the root system air sacs. After graduation, for the speedy adaptation of the flower to new soil, you should pour it with a solution of fertilizers. In the future, dracaena should be moderately watered. At first, it is recommended to use zircon. Fertilizers will need to be applied twice a month. With the correct transplant, this dose should be enough.

When transplanting dracaena, special attention should be paid to the zone of transition of the plant trunk to the root neck. This place can not be excessively deepened into the ground, and the neck should be slightly sprinkled with earth. The soil is better to use light or medium density. The roots of dracaena really like the air. Most gardeners believe that the plant should be transplanted into store peat soil, however, it is too heavy. Best of all, a flower grows in a mixture of peat soil with coco soil or deciduous. In this case, the roots receive a sufficient amount of air and moisture.

After planting, the plant needs put in a quiet placeso that no one hurts him. It is important that it receives enough dim light. The most successful time for transplantation are:

33. late fall. An overgrown color transplant as needed.
34. early spring. Good time to transplant a young plant.

The flowerpot should be slightly larger than its predecessor, since in a very large pot the flower may die.

Plant transplant after purchase

Should dracaena be transplanted immediately after its acquisition? There is no definite answer to this question. A younger plant is better leave in the same pot  before spring. In case of doubt about the need for a transplant, it is recommended to choose a transshipment. In this case, dracaena with the earth is transferred to a larger pot and supplemented with new soil. After this, the plant must be fertilized with zircon.

If the purchased plant is planted in transportation soil, then it must be transplanted into new soil, removing completely the old one.

Feeding dracaena after transplantation

After all procedures related to transplant, dracaena adapts for several weeks. At this time, the root system is formed. In order for the process to go as quickly as possible, the plant needs to be watered with a liquid that stimulates root growth, but no more than twice a month. In general, the plant should be fed from March to November, with a frequency of once every few weeks. In winter, top dressing should be done once a month, and the amount of active substance must be reduced by half. A universal fertilizer used for dracaena and palm trees is best suited.

Watering dracaena

The process of watering dracaena is no different from the usual. The only caveat is the need for the first time add zircon to the irrigation fluid.

So, dracaena transplantation is a fairly simple action that even a novice flower lover can handle.

  - Although this is not a very fastidious indoor plant, it nevertheless requires the observance of individual care rules: the appropriate temperature regime, humidity level, and so on. A critical violation of these rules can provoke various plant ailments that are reflected not only in the appearance and which can lead to the death of dracaena. One of the common problems, the causes and solutions of which will be discussed below, is the omission of the leaves of the plant, which usually grow up.

The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall

The most likely include:

1. Excessively cold temperature in the room (in particular, exacerbated by drafts). The optimum temperature for the growth and development of the plant is from 18 to 24 ° C above zero. Lower temperatures can cause the leaves to drop. In order to avoid this or to cope with the problem that has arisen, it is necessary to remove the plant from the place where it can be purged with drafts, and also to create the optimal temperature regime in the room.
2. Excessive soil moisture. It can be triggered by frequent watering or an excessively wide pot, contributing to stagnation of moisture. This requires two basic rules. The first is to avoid frequent watering and allow the soil to dry between watering, the second - you need to choose a pot that is deep enough, but with a small diameter (for a plant up to 15 centimeters tall, the optimal diameter of the pot is 10 to 15 centimeters; the height of the pot is 12-15 centimeters) .
3. Lack of moisture for the outer surface of the leaves. Dracaena  receives part of the nutrition and hydration through the surface of the leaves. In this regard, once every two to three days it is required to spray the leaves from the spray with water at room temperature.
4. Lack of oxygen saturation. First of all, it is important to maintain oxygen saturation of the soil. For this, drainage is created when planting / replanting dracaena. And it is also necessary to carry out periodic loosening of the soil.
5. Excessive use of fertilizers. For growth and development dracaena  it is advisable to use organic fertilizers in small quantities - peat, manure, humus and so on. Mineral fertilizers can be completely abandoned and used only if there are symptoms of a particular disease of dracaena, due to a lack of certain nutrients.
6. Exposure to direct sunlight can also cause yellowing and drooping leaves. dracaena. The plant loves light, but does not tolerate direct sunlight, which can contribute to the degradation and death of the plant. Dracaena should be in a lit room, but not on the sunny side of the room.