How the tulips faded, what to do with them. What to do with tulips when they bloomed? How to dig bulbs

Tulips (Tulipa) during flowering are incredibly beautiful. The problem is the loss of decorativeness of most species after flowering. This spoils the overall appearance of the flower garden, makes it difficult to care for other flowers and prevents the planting of new ones. The bulb can not be put in storage yet. Prior to this, she will have to be in the soil for a rather long time. The aerial part (leaves with a short peduncle) cannot be removed. I have been using a couple of tricks for many years to solve the problem of freeing the flower garden from faded tulips without changing the development cycle of this perennial bulbous plant.

Tulips bloom so beautifully!

Condition of tulips after flowering

Tulips are easier to care for in separate beds and flower beds. However, ordinary flower lovers rarely can afford such a luxury. Their tulips are often included in garden compositions, decorate flower beds with perennials and perennials or grow "anywhere." After flowering, they suffer from the inevitable mechanical damage associated with caring for and planting neighboring plants. Do not improve the condition of tulips and waterlogging of the soil, hard feeding of organic matter, etc.

These beautiful tulips are good in the flower garden only at the time of flowering.

If you cut off the entire aerial part immediately after flowering, then the bulb will not be able to form and reach a mature state. Its vegetation usually begins to bloom by the end of June - beginning of July, which can be easily determined by the weakening of the peduncle turgor, dry color and wilting of leaves. By this time, the covering scales of the substitute bulb become golden brown. It is impossible to delay the digging of bulbs, as the risk of decay of the nests and loss of hiding scales increases. “Naked” bulbs are stored worse. I set for myself the deadline for digging bulbs - the middle of the first decade of July.

Where to hide the faded tulip?

Often in the flower garden, along with tulips, various annuals and perennials grow, allowing to decorate faded bulbous. But this does not always work. Imagine how the border of faded tulips looks unsightly, which until recently looked amazing.

There are tulips with decorative leaves. I plant them separately, as they are good even after flowering. For instance, kaufman Tulip (favorite varieties Johann Strauss, Giuseppe Verdi and Ice Tick ) may have bluish leaves with stripes and dots. Wide leaves tulips foster with a wax coating on the leaves of some varieties are decorated with reddish stripes and dots. Greig's Tulips varieties with wide bluish leaves with cherry-red strokes and spots (" Dreambot, Mary Ann "). At Oriental Beauty"And" United nations »Leaves with conspicuous brown strokes. " New Design » ( Triumph Tulips) is appreciated because of the flowers and the silver edging of the dark green leaves.

Such tulips are good even after flowering

The list of varieties with striped and painted leaves is huge. Such tulips, especially undersized ones, look perfect among stones. They can be planted in rock gardens.

Low-growing tulips with variegated leaves always attract attention. Their decorativeness does not even suffer from the proximity to such a classic weed as a dandelion

I have to “deceive” this culture in order to avoid a number of inconveniences associated with caring for faded tulips. Those tulips that have ordinary leaves, I remove from the flower garden immediately after flowering. For this I take a suitable container with holes at the base. It can be a plastic or metal bucket, a large flower pot, a basin, a balcony drawer or something else. The main thing is that there are drainage holes or cracks, holes, etc. to drain rain or irrigation water.

At the bottom I pour sand and light soil. After that, carefully dig out tulips with bulbs so that the lump of earth with roots does not fall apart. I put them in a container and sprinkle them with earth. Then I transfer the container with plants to a secluded shady part of the garden. If necessary, moisten the soil a little at first.

It’s good that I didn’t throw away the old bucket with a rusted bottom, in which then drainage holes were made

This technique allows plants to survive a certain development cycle (until the bulbs are prepared for storage) in an environment unnatural for them. Such tulips bloom beautifully next year.

Autumn planting of bulbs in special plastic baskets is also convenient, which simplifies the task of clearing the area from faded tulips. Tulips in baskets bloom on our site in various places. Under lilac bushes, around apple trees, near hatches (plumbing and sewer) and in many other places. I can only dig up such a basket with a garden pitchfork so that it does not crack or break. It is easier if this product is not very wide and deep enough. Recently, I often use baskets for aquatic plants (garden pools and ponds).

These tulips grow in a bulb basket

A basket extracted from the ground is a true mini flower garden. It is heavy, so I take it to the semi-shady corner of the site where hazel trees grow, on a wheelbarrow, and not carry it in my hands. I do not remove adherent soil from the bottom. I sprinkle baskets on the sides with soil. Sometimes I dig in a short distance from the bush. Tulips will be there until early July. I also like this technique because it does not need to free the land from weeds under three huge bushes of hazel. Even dandelions and drowsiness disappear, which cannot sprout under the baskets with tulips. And a lot of them accumulate.

You could safely dig a basket with these faded tulips much earlier

P.S.

Such simple tricks make the life of an ordinary amateur grower easier. They will please both the "lazy" summer resident and the landscape designer. Professionals and amateurs seriously involved in the cultivation of tulips, this may seem barbaric.

But for me and many of my friends, the described options work fine. Simplified agricultural technology after flowering allows you to admire the delightful flowers of tulips, which do not grow on special ridges and individual flower beds, but flaunt in various places of the site.

The more tulips, the better. They so decorate the site!

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Tulips during flowering are very beautiful, but this period does not last very long. In just a few days, the flowers begin to wither and look not so attractive anymore. Not all flower growers know how to care for tulips after flowering, and make annoying mistakes, trying to immediately cut or dig bulbs.

What you need to do after flowering tulips

Caring for tulips after flowering is quite simple. The main rule is that flowers cannot be pruned or dug up immediately. For several weeks, it is recommended to water and feed the plant well. This feature is due to the fact that when the flower fades, tulip bulbs continue to accumulate nutrients for about three weeks. Premature digging deprives them of such an opportunity, so next year the flowering of tulips may be less plentiful.

After the final withering, the peduncle is carefully removed. This will allow the plant not to waste energy on the need for seed ripening. It is impossible to cut leaves immediately, since when they are removed immediately after flowering, the development of the bulbs lags. It is necessary to provide tulips with sufficient watering and fertilize them with fertilizers.

Many gardeners at this time have a desire to remove yellow leaves, but this should not be done. Experienced gardeners recommend simply pressing them to the ground or planting perennial plants with tulips to give an aesthetic appearance to the flower bed during this period. You can decorate the flower garden during this period, having previously planted daffodils or phloxes along with tulips.

Within a few weeks, the leaves of the tulips will dry out naturally and can be cut off. In order not to lose the place of planting flowers after the leaves have dried, it is recommended that you first make guide notes by which you can easily find it.

Tulips: care after flowering

Tulips belong to the bulbous species and do not require particularly careful care, but they impose special requirements on the issue of watering. The irrigation rate is 10-40 liters per square meter, but it depends on the weather. The drier the weather, the more plentiful the watering should be..

Fertilizing tulips after flowering should be carried out without fail. This procedure will allow the flower bulbs to collect the maximum amount of nutrients. Fertilizer selection must be approached with caution, as fertilizing tulips with fertilizer complexes with nitrogen and chlorine is unacceptable.

Use as a top dressing is beneficial for the storage of bulbs potassium and phosphorus. Such a complex is introduced in an amount of 30-40 grams per square meter of soil. Fertilize the plant once enough.

A good dressing is crystallin and aquarin. As part of fertilizing contains phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. In the market of garden products today, you can purchase various brands, the composition of which may vary slightly. Such products do not contain chlorine, so they are considered completely safe for tulips. Their use allows you to: provide onions with a sufficient amount of nutrients. As a result of introducing a complex composition into the soil, a significant increase in the quality of planting material can be obtained.

Why you need to dig

Digging up tulips is a must. You can not leave the bulbs in the ground, since when this rule is not respected, then there is a degeneration of the plant and peduncles are very small. Many beginner flower growers are faced with this situation, when a few years after planting expensive varieties of tulips, instead of terry, fringed, colorful flowers, you can see faint flowers with small inflorescences. In exceptional cases, the flowers simply do not emerge, and in place of the once-blooming flowerbed, an empty space appears.

To explain this situation, it is enough to know about the characteristics of bulbous plants. Over time, many small onion babies form around the parent head. Over time, they grow, which leads to the drowning of the mother’s head down. Weak onions are not able to give a full-fledged lush flowering plant.

The most persistent are the red varieties of tulips, which can maintain abundant flowering for several years.

Tulips have faded: what to do next

After complete withering of the leaves of the plant, you can start digging flowers. Bulb excavation is recommended from the end of June to the second decade of July. Digging can be done with a scoop or with a bayonet shovel. To avoid the possibility of damage to the heads, it is recommended to focus on the remains of dry stems. It is preliminary recommended to evaluate the readiness of planting material for this procedure. To do this, dig one onion and conduct its visual inspection. Healthy Tulip Bulb dense, smooth and has a slight sheen. You can proceed with the digging of flowers if the following symptoms are evident:

onions have good roots;
brown spots are visible on the scales;
the ends of the stem are easily wound around the finger.

Most varieties of tulips are recommended to be dug up annually. Disease-resistant varieties can be dug up once every 2 years. Extracting onions from the soil is best done on a sunny day, as this will allow you to get dry, clean onions. When digging, the following rules should be observed:

deepen the shovel carefully, otherwise the roots can be damaged;
digging begins with early varieties;
defective bulbs are subject to rejection.

Before work, it is worthwhile to prepare cardboard boxes in advance and make inscriptions which of the varieties or flowers of tulips are in it. In the future, such simple actions can avoid confusion with planting varieties and errors in the combination of colors.

After digging, all planting material is washed under running water and dried thoroughly. Recommended to do dressing of onions with 5% manganese solution. If the planting material will have high humidity, then in the future during storage it will rot and crack.

For good drying, it is enough to withstand the heads in a dry room for 14 days at a temperature of 22-25 C 0. During this period, the formation of a bud and flower stem. If at this time the temperature is low, then such formation does not occur and the bulb may not bloom next year.

Care and storage rules after digging

After completing the drying phase, you can begin to sort the planting material. Each bulb is cleaned of scales. From each adult bulb children are separated and placed in separate containers. At the same time, the patient is rejected, the defective material and the bulbs are sorted by size.

All planting material is stored in boxes that are stored in a dry, dark room. It is recommended that containers with a mesh bottom be used. Putting onions should be done no more than two layers. The first 4 weeks of the bulb are stored at a temperature of 23-25 \u200b\u200bC 0. Gradually, the temperature is reduced to 17 C 0.

Proper care of tulips and compliance with storage rules will allow the onions to relax and next year you can expect abundant flowering from them.

Blossoming of tulips - the triumph of spring. For the holiday to come annually, these bulbous plants will need special care.

Tulip care after flowering

When the tulip's petals fade, it is necessary to cut off the flower so that no effort is spent on setting seeds. Leaves should not be cut, they participate in photosynthesis, providing nutrition. Now the main thing is to create conditions for the development of a young replacing bulb, because the old dies off after flowering.

It is better to break off rather than pruning flowers with pruners. In the latter way, tulip diseases, for example, the variegation virus, are easily tolerated.

After flowering, only the flower head breaks off; no need to remove the entire peduncle

In order for the bulb to be larger, the plants after flowering fertilize a choice:

daily infusion of ash;
kalimagnesia;
potassium nitrate.

Top dressing is done on moist soil. At this and other stages of growth, fertilizing spring flowers with manure or fertilizers with a high nitrogen content is not recommended. This can lead to rotting of the bulbs.

Do not forget about soil moisture. While the leaves are green, it is necessary to water the plants abundantly once a week if the spring is dry.

When watering tulips, you need to wet the soil to a depth of the roots: 35–40 cm

Bulb digging

So that the flowers do not fade, and the bulbs do not hurt and do not degenerate, any kind of tulip is dug up every year. This is usually done in late June - early July. The exception is tulip babies; they are dug up once every two years. Experienced flower growers advise:

hold the event in dry weather;
submerge a shovel deeper than planting the bulb; in the process of growth, they deepen;
destroy all diseased specimens;
etch the dug planting stock in a disinfecting solution.

Digging too early leads to underdevelopment of the bulb and children. In addition, the decorativeness of future flowers will decrease. If you dig up late when the shoots dry out, there is a risk that the bulb will have time to become infected with a fungus or the protective covering scale will crack. This can lead to spoilage of planting material during storage.

If the leaves turn yellow or wilt, try wrapping the stem around your finger. If the shoot did not break, it turned out to be plastic, dig out a control specimen. If the bulb scales turn light brown, the time for digging has come.

Dug tulips do not immediately break off the stems, let them dry out, and nutrients go to the bulb

Once I was presented with a dozen bulbs of peony tulips. The blooming of stunning terry flowers lasted a long time thanks to the cool weather. But after yellowing the tops, I forgot to dig them. The next spring, not one came up. The neighbors say that they have rare new varieties that degenerate and do not germinate if they are not dug up annually.

Signs that it is time to dig up tulips - video

Drying and disinfection

Dug out tulips are laid out under a canopy in 2 layers for two days. After this time, the bulbous nests decay easily. The bulbs are cleaned of dead roots and husks and disinfected in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for half an hour. The procedure will destroy the pathogens of rot and feed the tulip with trace elements. Then the bulbs are dried again, sorted by size and placed in open wooden crates or baskets, preferably in one layer.

In order not to get the bulbs one at a time, it is convenient to disinfect them by placing them in a gauze bag

Storage

During summer storage, the bud and buds of future bulbs are finally formed. In order for the aging process to occur correctly, they are first kept at a temperature of about 25 ° C for a month in a well-ventilated room. The optimum humidity is 60–70%. In August, the temperature is lowered to 20 o C, in September and then to 15 o -17 o C. If these rules are not followed, tulips may not bloom or give “blind” buds.

Periodically, planting material is examined and discarded by patients who are sick or moldy. Most often, stored tulips are affected by gray rot and fusarium. At the first disease, the bulbs are covered with a gray coating and gradually rot. In the second case, brown spots with a brownish border are formed, the bulbs exude an unpleasant smell and also decompose. If the lesion is small, the rot is cut with a sharp knife, the bulb is pickled, as usual, then sprinkled with ash and dried.

Poorly dried and non-disinfected bulbs are often affected by gray rot.

Landing

Ideally, tulips land in the fall, in late September - early November. Spring planting is also practiced in April. But then the tulips will bloom much later, because they will need about three weeks to root. It is advisable to change the place of planting every year so that pathogens do not accumulate in the soil.

Where spring flowers will grow, moisture should not stagnate. The future flower bed is prepared in 2 weeks so that the earth evenly settles. The bed is dug up to the depth of the bayonet shovel and make compost, ash or superphosphate. If necessary, lime. On clay soils, peat is welcome. In the absence of rain, the area is shed with water.

Before planting, the bulbs are again sorted and disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate. Bulb planting depth - three of its heights. For large specimens, the distance between the bulbs is 15 cm, for medium - 10 cm, small - 5 cm. 25-30 cm are left on the aisles.

Advanced flower growers plant tulips in special baskets for bulbs, they are very easy to dig out

Do not cover the beds with organic flowers, so as not to attract rodents. In the event of unforeseen frosts, agrofibre is spread on the flowerbed, which is pressed by the boards.

On the advice of an experienced grower, when planting, I put a handful of sand mixed with ash in the hole. On this "hill" I put the onion and fall asleep with earth. Now, the loss of tulips from a variety of rot on my heavy loam is minimized. And the bulb comes out larger, due to the fact that the sand loosens the soil and the roots freely develop.

Fertilizing immediately after flowering, disinfection of the bulbs and warm storage, followed by lowering the temperature - these are three whales of the grandiose spring flowering of tulips.

Tulips are the main decoration of the spring garden, one of the favorite flowers of all summer residents. They are famous for the beauty and variety of shades and make us happy with such coveted first bright colors. The carpet of flowering buds on the site attracts the eyes and touches, but by the end of spring the petals fall off. Often, flower growers ask themselves what to do when tulips have bloomed and how to care for the bulbs correctly so that the plants remain healthy and strong for many years.

Fertilizing and watering tulips after flowering

After the tulips wilt, it is required to remove the wilted peduncles. This is necessary so that the plant does not waste energy on ripening seeds. In this case, it is important to worry about the bulb - if it receives the necessary amount of nutrients and ripens enough, then next year it will give large and lush flowering.

Remove the tulip flower before shedding petals completely. Depending on the tulip variety, this usually occurs 5-8 days after blooming. Cut only flower heads, but not leaves and stems. If they are removed, then the bulb will not ripen well.

After the buds bloom, the plant needs increased watering over the next 2 weeks. During this period, intensive processes of accumulation of nutrients occur, therefore it is recommended to feed the plant with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Top dressing containing chlorine or nitrogen at this stage cannot be used.

Tulips have faded - do I need to cut the foliage?

Experts advise not even to cut, but to rip off the leaves of tulips with your hands after complete yellowing. This occurs 5-6 weeks after flowering. If the leaf does not come off well, then the bulb is not yet fully ripe, wait until the leaf can be easily pulled out of the ground.

If this is done prematurely, the bulb will stop developing and this will negatively affect the quality of flowering next year. In order not to lose the location of the bulb, leave the stem as a mark. If you plant tulips, alternating with other flowering plants such as irises, dry leaves and stems will not spoil the appearance of the flowerbed.

Do I need to dig up tulips after they bloom?

The assertion that tulips do not need to be dug up annually is quite common, but fundamentally wrong. Since the bulb sinks deeper into the soil over time, the distance to the surface gradually increases and may amount to more than 1.5 bayonet shovels. Accordingly, the plant needs more strength and nutrients for normal germination. In addition, the bulbs of one nest do not have the ability to develop normally, crowding each other.

After 4-5 years of being in one place, the hybrid tulip loses the dignity and characteristics of the variety, its buds become small and weak. There is a great risk that the plant will die over time.

Digging bulbs is required for varietal tulips. If you have ordinary tulips, then in order to get larger and healthier flowers without an annual transplant, plant them on a grid - an ordinary grid of potatoes. Or buy special pots for bulbs with holes. This will prevent the bulbs from going deeper into the soil. Because these pots are usually quite expensive, you can easily make their counterpart from a regular plastic basket.

When and how to dig out tulips

Digging of plants is carried out at the end of June or a little later, when the leaves are completely yellowed and the stem is limp. The bulb ready for extraction has brown spots on the scales, and a well-formed root system.

sort by grades starting from the earliest;
dig in good weather to be able to immediately dry the bulbs in the sun;
if you dig in wet weather, wash the bulbs from the ground before drying;
digging up the plant, enter the shovel as deep as possible into the soil so as not to injure the root;
wash the bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate (5%)

Hold the resulting bulbs under the sun or a lamp until the scales dry. Discard the sick and the weak, and put the healthy by grades in pre-prepared containers (1-2 layers).

How to store tulip bulbs

Boxes and other storage containers must have a well-ventilated bottom, otherwise rot may develop. During storage, it is important to observe the appropriate humidity and temperature conditions, which will ensure the correct formation of buds, leaves and peduncles inside the bulb.

Storage conditions for tulip bulbs after digging:

until the end of July, for 3-4 weeks after digging, the air temperature should be 24-25 ° C, and humidity - about 70%;
august - the temperature of the content drops to 20 ° C;
september - the temperature of the content drops to 16-17 ° C.

Keep the bulbs in a specially designed room, avoiding temperature changes and increasing humidity - this will lead to cracking of the scales and the appearance of rot. Check the bulbs from time to time for defects or damage by pests.

When to plant tulips?

In late September or early October, dried bulbs should be planted in the soil. It is better to do this in sunny weather and air temperature of 5-8 ° C. Prepare the onions ready for planting with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Landing Rules:

choose a new place for the bulbs;
plant to a depth equal to 4-5 times the size of the bulb itself;
pour the place of landing with plenty of water;
a week after planting the bulbs, feed the soil with ash and ammonium nitrate;
before frost, mulch the soil with a thin layer of peat.

After the tulips have bloomed, it is important to take care of the normal ripening of the bulbs. This will ensure the safety of the variety, lush flowering and plant resistance to disease in the next year.

The bright riot of colors of spring tulips always pleases and creates a holiday in the souls of people, settles the warmth. Only to admire their beauty does not last long due to the short flowering period.

April and May flew by quickly, the tulips bloomed, what to do next: leave the bulbs in the soil until the next season or dig bulbs, how to keep them until the next planting, what to plant in the vacant place to maintain the design of the garden plot? We will tell about all this on this page of our site.

Bulbous flowers develop in a specific cycle:

In connection with this life cycle of tulips, the care of the gardener should be aimed at the full ripening of the bulbs, increasing the immunity of the plant. With complete wilting of the flowers, the peduncle, dry petals, seeds are removed and the plant is watered for another 2 weeks. If not carried out, then the seed box is not allowed to form and cut it off, because it will draw the food from the bulb.

It's important to know. You can not cut the leaves of lily onion plants immediately after they fade. Aboveground green mass contributes to the growth of the bulb. When cutting tulips for a bouquet, leave 2-3-4 sheets from the bottom.

Yellow leaves are pressed to the surface of the soil with wooden pins or other means so that they do not spoil the appearance of the flowerbed, and leave marks to indicate their location. The root system of the bulb extracts water in the surface layer, so the earth must be moistened to a depth of 3-40 cm. At the very end of flowering, using complex fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus in the composition: Aquarin, Mortar, Kristallin - 30-40 g / 10 l / m² . Fertilizers will help form scales replacing the bulbs, and grow children. Means with the presence of chlorine and nitrogen are not used.

To be dug up or not to be

Among experienced gardeners, there is no longer any debate about whether to dig tulips every year, since everyone agrees: yes, yes! Moreover, from dry land. The weather during the work should be warm and sunny, the leaves are yellow, and the stem in the upper part should be so soft that it can be bent and not broken.

But nevertheless, tulips of simple varieties can grow quietly in one place up to 7 years, but there are no species varieties, they feel bad in the same soil: they degenerate, grow smaller, lose varietal characters, and breed poorly. Another thing is when they are planted in the fall, and at the beginning of summer they dig out annually or at least after 1-2 years.

The time when you can dig out tulips after flowering in the open field will be different for each region: the first days of June - for warm areas, at the end of June - for cold. Bulbs in July-August should be heated outdoors at a temperature of 23-25 \u200b\u200b° heat.

People often ask if tulips can be dug up in August. During hot summers and warm autumn in the steppe and subtropical zones, this procedure is carried out at the end of July and August for late onion varieties, if specified in the lunar calendars. Only you need to remember that you can lose the children, because they are separated from the main uterine bulb, which is also difficult to find.

Long bulbs in the ground increase the risk of infection. They freeze or rot in too moist soil, the roots become a hotbed of infectious diseases. But even with premature excavation, the development of the bulb is disrupted, as well as its division.

How to dig bulbs

The prepared roots and brown spots on the scales, as well as the softening of the leaves and ends of the stems will tell you about the readiness of the bulb for digging: they will easily be wound on the finger. Digging:

on warm and sunny days to allow the bulbs to dry;
in wet weather they are washed with water, treated with potassium permanganate roots (5%) and dried;
to avoid injury to the roots, the shovel is deeply lowered into the ground;
those bulbs that are sick or have not sprouted are selected and disposed of;
take turns.

Drying of dug bulbs lasts 7-10 days at a temperature of 25-30 ° heat, humidity - 50%. Then they should be cleaned of the earth, obsolete roots and scales and sorted for storage.

Planting stock storage

Storage of tulip bulbs after digging lasts 2-2.5 months at a room temperature of 23-25 \u200b\u200b° C, another 1-1.5 months at a temperature of 15-18 ° of heat and humidity 70-80%, then at 10-12 ° heat and humidity 60-70%, up to the moment of landing in the ground. Wherein cover flakes should not dry out and be in high humidity, i.e. above the specified norm. To ensure breathing, the onions are distributed in one or two layers.

Bulbs of varieties and sizes are placed in each wooden box. With a kidney diameter of more than 4 cm, they are assigned to the first grade, with a diameter of 3 cm to 3.8 cm - to the second grade, with a diameter of 2.0-2.8 cm - to the third. Variation in the size of varieties can be ± 1-2 cm. Planting material is periodically examined for rotting or disease. After storage in the fall, bulbs are planted to continue the development cycle of the plant and obtain bright spring flowers in the flower beds.

Baskets and containers for tulips

It is now popular to plant bulbs in special perforated containers or baskets so that they do not creep into the ground. Baskets are easy to remove from flower beds, and bulbs to be removed from the ground without much damage. After that, the baskets are dug a little somewhere in the garden and the bulbs are left in the soil for ripening. The cells at the containers or baskets should be small so that the kids do not sprout through them. If there are no baskets at hand, then plastic bottles with a capacity of 5 liters will come in handy. They cut off the neck, and make holes in the bottom, sprinkle the bottom with sand and earth. To make it easier to remove such home-made containers from the ground, pens are attached to the side of them.

Bulbs stored in crates are again transplanted into the soil in another area from the end of September until October 10, pre-soaking them again in a solution of weak potassium permanganate. Seedlings are watered and fed with ash and ammonium nitrate. When cold weather occurs, mulch from humus or peat is laid out to maintain heat during the winter and additional nutrition in the spring.