Feeding peppers in the spring in the greenhouse. How to feed peppers in a greenhouse and what fertilizers to apply. How is landing in the ground

Depending on the natural conditions, the purpose of vegetables, the type of soil on the site, you need to choose the appropriate variety. There are plants that will feel good on heavy clay soils, although peppers with a mixture of sand or peat are more suitable.

You can select according to precocity, colors, productivity.

Some cultures constantly bloom and set new fruits until the fall. But in order to constantly get a crop, you need to know how to feed peppers during fruiting. And not only to know, but also to conduct regular events in the garden. All types of pepper come from America, where the air temperature is higher.

Therefore, the greatest results in the cultivation of pepper crops can be achieved only by the seedling method in a greenhouse, where it is easier to control the process. Feeding peppers in a greenhouse is slightly different from soil. It is necessary to observe the daylight hours: oddly enough, but plants bear fruit better when the day lasts less than 12 hours.

Care Features

Care should include:

the formation of the crown of plants, so that all branches receive the same amount of light;

pruning long stems;

mulching;

watering;

soil disinfection before planting;

pest and fungal diseases.

And, of course, top dressing - root and extra root.

Seed germination

Seeds before planting need keep in warm water for 5 - 6 hoursso that they swell. Water temperature - 50 degrees. Next, a container is prepared, on the bottom of which a wet cotton cloth is placed.

Seeds must lie 2 - 3 days for the formation of seedlings, after which they can be transferred to the ground - separate pots. Pepper seedlings do not tolerate picking, so it is better to use medium-sized pots, 8 cm in diameter. It no longer makes sense, since the root system grows slowly and does not have time to fill the entire volume.

Pre-germination allows you to get seedlings for 2 to 3 days after planting in pots. It is advisable to water them and cover with a film. When the sprouts appear, you need to control the temperature: in the afternoon it should be 26 - 28 degrees, at night 10 - 15.

Soil preparation

To achieve good absorption of nutrients, peppers must grow in loose soil, which is mixed in the following proportions:

compost - 2 parts;

sand - 1 part;

soil - 1 part.

Furnace ash is usually added to such a mixture to provide seedlings with phosphorus and potassium to form the root system. Enough 1 tablespoon of wood ash per 1 kg of the mixture. With the advent of the first large leaf, you can add a little nitrogen fertilizing so that the plant gains green mass.

Transplant to the soil

Based on the principles of crop rotation, the forerunners of pepper should be:

gourds - pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers;

carrot;

cabbage.

Topping pepper in a greenhouse should begin with soil disinfection sulphate - 1 tablespoon per bucket of water. Another important point is the regular ventilation throughout the entire flowering and fruiting period. How to feed pepper in a greenhouse is up to the owner.

You can use both mineral mixtures and organics, if it is available in sufficient quantities. Suitable manure, chicken droppings, wood ash, various food waste from the kitchen, green nettle infusion.

After transplanting into open ground or in a greenhouse, which should be carried out carefully, without damaging the roots, you need to wait two weeks before starting to make nutrient mixtures. When the plants adapt, the first thing you can do is to water the infusion of manure:

in a bucket to pour 1/3 manure;

to fill with water;

wait 5-7 daysstirring occasionally;

dilute all amount of substance yet 10 buckets of water, that is - 1/10 .

Water under the root, making sure that the liquid does not fall on the leaves. The soil must be moist. For young seedlings, 1 liter of nutrient solution is enough.

Fertilizers for feeding peppers - dosages, folk recipes

In order for the ovaries to form in large quantities, you need to make a sufficient amount of potassium. But for potassium to be absorbed, phosphorus is necessary, since it directly affects the formation of a strong root system.

These two trace elements are added simultaneously.

Pepper is fed during flowering and fruiting with any available substances - mineral or organic. You can combine - it's even better. Mineral mixtures are used complex, containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

Dosages are calculated according to the instructions. Do not exceed the norm, as this can cause damage to the roots and death of the plant. The principle is always the same - it is better to underfeed.

Organic fertilizer

The best organic fertilizer for feeding peppers during flowering and fruiting are all types of manure:

cattle;

horse;

sheep;

bird droppings.

But it’s dangerous to add fresh substance before landing, since large amounts of ammonia can burn the roots. Manure is added rotted or composted, which is even better.

Video: Feeding peppers during fruiting

Experienced gardeners who have specialized in growing various varieties of pepper for years recommend digging fresh manure with the ground during autumn soil preparation. During the winter, soil bacteria manage to process the substance. By spring, it goes into the form available for plant nutrition.

Peppers can be fed during the fruiting period with fresh manure or droppings, provided that it is pre-infused for a week with water and diluted:

cow manure 1/10;

chicken droppings 1/20.

Chicken droppings are very concentrated, therefore add 20 buckets of water to the tincture bucket.

The disadvantage of manure is the lack of phosphorus. It must be added separately in the form of superphosphate or ash. But ash can not always be found, since to obtain it you need to burn a lot of wood or coal.

A backup option may be the introduction of bone or fishmeal, which is also very costly if vegetables are grown for sale. Although the use of organic substances makes it possible to obtain environmentally friendly products that are not oversaturated with chemical components.

A simple remedy than to feed peppers for ripening is a green infusion of grass-weeds or nettles. To do this, you need:

chop grass and pour water for insisting. About a third of a bucket of grass, the rest is water.

insist 3 to 4 days;

strain.

To water under the root 1 liter per bush. You can also carry out foliar spraying with green fertilizer, just make sure that there are no drafts in the greenhouse. In the open ground, spraying is carried out in the early morning or evening, when the sun has completely set.

Important! Peppers are fed 2–3 times a month during flowering and fruiting. If necessary, it is possible to carry out therapeutic measures for the bushes so that flowers and ovaries are not sick and do not drop

When using organics, the need to apply micronutrients to fertilizers disappears, since they are found in manure.

Mineral Mixtures

For the fruits to be fleshy and sweet (as much as possible with pepper), greenhouse plants and plants in the open field require potassium and phosphorus. These elements need to be introduced before planting for digging and added to the flowering period to save the number of ovaries.

An important point than to feed peppers in August. In the greenhouse, plants bear fruit until late autumn. When they have gained green mass and entered the flowering stage, the dosage of nitrogen mineral fertilizers should be reduced to a minimum so as not to stimulate the growth of shoots to the detriment of the crop. From mid-summer to late autumn, the main mineral fertilizers will be phosphorus and potassium.

Caution! Pepper does not tolerate potassium chloride - it is very toxic and causes the movement of juices to stop in shoots

Potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate), superphosphate should be used. For watering on a bucket of water necessary:

1 tablespoon superphosphate;

1 teaspoon potassium sulfate.

If mineral fertilizers are scarce, plants show this through.

Fruits on the plant appear 2 weeks earlier than in open ground. Moreover, this result can be achieved even when using an unheated design. In addition, tomatoes in a greenhouse are less susceptible to such a common disease as late blight.

Therefore, the total yield is higher quality and larger. In this case, it is necessary to solve problems with drip irrigation in advance.

TOMATOES in a greenhouse: planting, pinching, garter, top dressing

However, it is not difficult to organize it.Following competent recommendations and careful care, full trust in a professional and courage in experiments - all this will lead to ripe fruits. Growing tomatoes in your greenhouse or in the open field is not a big deal if you know the basic requirements for growing this vegetable.

Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse is somewhat different from growing them in open ground. You need to start with the fact that the tomatoes in the greenhouse are in a confined space, not receiving anything from the outside except sunlight. They need to be watered and aired in a timely manner.

And the correct feeding of tomatoes in the greenhouse will be the key to a good and plentiful harvest. It is best to plant tomatoes in the greenhouse when the seedlings are strong enough, reach a height of 20-30 centimeters, and 10-12 pieces will appear on each plant leaf. By timing, tomato seedlings are planted in the greenhouse in the first decade of May.

Fertilizer beds

For each bed of loamy or clay soil, it is necessary to add 1 bucket of peat, sawdust or humus for each square. meter. If peat is already in the beds, they are placed on a bucket of humus, sod land, sawdust or small shavings.

Half a bucket of coarse sand is also laid. On top of all this add a spoonful of potassium sulfate and 2 tablespoons of superphosphate. Then everything is well dug up.

Vegetative top dressing

The soil for tomatoes must be properly prepared by introducing the necessary fertilizers into it. In terms of 1 square meter of land should be added: 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate, as well as half a bucket of coarse sand.

Dig the soil well and prepare the holes. The next fertilizing of tomatoes in the greenhouse is done after 20 days. It is carried out with organic or mineral fertilizers.

Fertilizers are best used liquid, watering plants at the rate of 1 liter of water per plant. The second feeding of tomatoes grown in the greenhouse is carried out 10 days after the first feeding. It is carried out with complex fertilizers, such as "Ideal" or "Fertility." After 12 days, you can carry out another fertilizer application.

This time, you can use special tools that improve the fruit ovary, and you can use this fertilizer composition: 2 tablespoons of wood ash and 1 tablespoon of superphosphate per 10 liters of water. Each plant is poured with such a solution at the rate of 2 liters under the root. When the tomatoes enter the phase of active fruiting, they are fed sodium humate and nitrophos.

Pollination of tomato flowers

The fruits appear due to the fact that the bees pollinate them. But in the closed system of the greenhouse there are no bees. Therefore, it is necessary to solve this problem.

In sunny warm weather, flower brushes must be shaken slightly. The main thing is to do it carefully. For germination of pollen on the pistil, after pollination, it is necessary to sprinkle water on the flowers with a fine spray and water the soil.

After a couple of hours you can reduce the humidity by opening the door and the window in the greenhouse. Pay more attention to airing. It is of great importance in the flowering phase of tomatoes. It is important to prevent condensation from appearing on the film.

Due to waterlogging of the soil, the content of dry matter and sugar in the fruit is reduced. Because of this, they become acidic and watery, such as on the market. Thanks to the proper watering of tomatoes in a greenhouse, the crop will not just be high. You will also receive quality fruits. Use the following scheme for watering tomatoes in a greenhouse:

Before the flowering of plants begins, water the seedlings of 4-5 liters of water per square meter. meter every 5-7 days. Prior to fruiting during flowering, more abundant watering is needed. It will take 10-15 liters of water per square meter. meter.

In this case, you should consider that water should have a temperature in the range from +20 to +22 degrees. This is a very important point. You can water only in the morning hours.

At other times, watering is harmful. So you can prevent the appearance of harmful excess moisture. Thus, for the successful cultivation of tomatoes in greenhouse conditions, irrigation and competent dressing of plants is of great importance.

Spring preparation of the earth in the greenhouse

Before embarking on the planting of pepper seedlings in beds, they must be specially prepared and fertilized. The following fertilizers must be introduced into the greenhouse soil, based on 1m2:

1 hour a spoonful of potassium sulfate; 1 glass of wood ash ;? buckets of humus or compost (last year).

The mineral fertilizers listed above can be replaced with a complex mineral fertilizer, preferably specialized, making about 1-2 tbsp. tablespoons per m2. Before applying, carefully read the composition indicated on the package.

If the fertilizer contains a large amount of chlorine, then it is better not to use it, since pepper very poorly tolerates this substance. (See. Fertilizing a tomato in a greenhouse) After fertilizers have been applied, it is necessary to loosen or shallow dig the ridge, then shed it with warm water and cover with a clean transparent film. In this state, the prepared ridge is left for several days, up to the time of planting.

Basic rules for feeding peppers

Peppers are fed every two weeks. Dissolve organic and mineral substances in warm, standing water. Its temperature should be close to the soil temperature in the greenhouse (approximately + 250C). Before fertilizing, each plant should be poured with warm water, and only then fertilizer should be applied. After fertilizing, the soil around each plant should be lightly loosened, if it is not mulled. It is necessary to alternate fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers. Any fertilizing should be carried out. only on wet soil. Therefore, a couple of days before dressing, plants must be properly shed.

Important: do not give the pepper an excess of nitrogenous fertilizers, as this will lead to the plants growing a large green mass, to the detriment of the setting and development of the fruit.

Organization of feeding during the season

When to feed?

The timing of the beginning of feeding depends on at what time and in what volume, how and by what, the ridge on which the pepper was planted was refueled. If in the autumn compost or humus was laid in the soil, and in the spring during digging, the earth was fertilized with mineral fertilizers, then there is less need for fertilizers and fertilizing can be carried out somewhat later. Peppers planted in small greenhouses can be fed less frequently - every 15-20 days. Consider in more detail than to feed pepper in a greenhouse. (See also Topping Tomato)

First feeding

Planting pepper seedlings in a greenhouse is carried out when the height of the plant reaches 15-25 cm, on it there are at least 8 real leaves and buds are already laid. So after about 14-15 days after transplanting peppers to a permanent place, the plants begin to bloom. It is at this time that the first top dressing of peppers is carried out in the greenhouse.

You can use a solution of any bird droppings in water in a ratio of 1:15, which has been infused for at least 5 days, or a liquid mullein in a ratio of 1:10, which has been infused for a week. If organic fertilizers are not available, you can dissolve 40 g superphosphate and ammonium nitrate, add 20 g of potassium sulfate, in 10 liters of warm and settled water. Tip: a so-called “herbal tea” is a very good fertilizer containing all the micro and macro elements necessary for plants. Making it yourself is very simple: nettle, woodlouse, dandelion, plantain or coltsfoot, that is, any weeds that you remove from your site are chopped or chopped. It is important that there are no seeds and roots on the plants.

All this green “pulp”, the weight of which should be about 6-7 kg, will fit in a 100 liter barrel. There they lay 1 glass of any ash and a bucket of mullein. Water is barrel-boiled, and then all its contents are thoroughly mixed. The resulting composition should be infused for at least a week.

The first feeding of tomatoes in the greenhouse, and of any other crops, including pepper, is carried out in 1-2l per plant. Two weeks after the first feeding, during the formation of the ovaries and the development of the fruits, the second feeding is carried out.

Second feeding

In the event that the first feeding of pepper in the greenhouse was carried out with mineral fertilizers, the second should contain organic substances. To do this, you can dilute 1 glass of urea in a 100 liter barrel,? buckets of any bird droppings, 1 bucket of last year's manure.

All components are filled with water and left to infuse for 5-7 days. Then it is used at the rate of 5-6 liters of solution for every 1 m2. In the event that you notice the fragility of the stems or shoots of peppers, as well as saturated dark green leaves, indicating an excessive amount of nitrogen in the soil, you can feed the plants by dissolving 1 hour .spoon of potassium sulfate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate in 10 l of water.

Foliar top dressing

Throughout the entire period of growth and development of peppers, plants need both calcium, phosphorus, magnesium and calcium, as well as trace elements such as iodine, molybdenum, zinc, boron, manganese. A good way to bring all these necessary and important substances to the plant is foliar top dressing, in other words, spraying the entire plant with a fertilizer solution. If the plants grow poorly, foliar top dressing will help to stimulate the growth and development processes. To do this, dilute 1 teaspoon of urea in 10 liters of water. In the event that the plants began to shed flowers and ovaries, foliar feeding of peppers with a solution of boric acid can help (solution of 1 teaspoon in 10 liters of water). When the fruits are poorly formed, you can spray with a solution of 1 hour. tablespoons of superphosphate into 5 liters of water.Before starting to spray, the prepared solutions should be filtered and then sprayed with a spray gun. In order to protect peppers in the greenhouse from pests such as spider mites and aphids, as well as to increase the resistance of this crop to various diseases, it is recommended to periodically perform foliar dressing of plants an aqueous solution of ash, which contains all the necessary elements.

For each person, it is obvious that it is not always possible, even with the maximum effort expended, to get a decent harvest. It is not a matter of the quantity and total weight of the fruit, although this is also an extremely important indicator.

But you can collect a mountain of vegetables, the taste of which will not be up to par. Why does it depend? There are no trifles in growing vegetables, everything is important here: the timing of planting seedlings in the soil or greenhouse, an irrigation schedule, and proper pinching.

But nothing affects the taste of the fruit like fertilizer. Therefore, in this article we will talk about how to feed tomatoes in a greenhouse and in open ground. The scheme for feeding tomatoes in greenhouse conditions and in open ground conditions is almost the same, the only difference is that there is no one-time fertilizer application immediately after transplanting.

general informationSome inexperienced gardeners ask themselves the question: "Why think out how to feed tomatoes for growth?" A certain part of people has a clearly formed opinion: fertilizer is bad. There are grounds for such a statement: if there are a lot of fertilizers, they not only badly affect the plants, but also are deposited in the fruits, making them tasteless, inedible or unsafe for human health.

Therefore, it is extremely important to adhere to the recommended concentration. However, you still have to think about how to feed the tomatoes. Indeed, in order for one centner of tomatoes to form, the plant must process about 0.25 kg of nitrogen, 0.15 kg of phosphorus and up to half a kilogram of potassium.

Non-root top dressingWhen the question arises of how to feed tomatoes, most people choose only root dressings. However, there is a way to add all the beneficial substances, bypassing the root system.

By analogy with humans, it looks like this: drugs introduced through the stomach (into the soil) act slower than those that enter the body through the blood (absorbed from the surface of the leaves). Foliar top dressing is carried out with special drugs, such as "Master" or "Plantafol ", Conventional mineral or organic mixtures are not suitable for this. Such top dressing is very convenient to combine with spraying from various pests and diseases. What to feed tomatoes: the classic fertilizer application schedule The fertilizer application schedule is compiled individually for each particular case, but you must follow a few general rules: - tomatoes fertilize 4-5 times per season; - very timely watering is important: useful substances should not lie dead weight in dry earth, but should be delivered to plants with water; - plenty of moisture leads to leaching of fertilizers, so in rainy summers or in trouble In soils, the number of top dressings is doubled, but the amount of introduced substances decreases by about a third; - root dressings can be carried out both with special mineral mixtures and independently made from potassium permanganate, egg shell crumbs, wood ash, humus, chicken droppings, etc. So, you have received full information on how to feed tomatoes. It remains only to put this knowledge into practice and grow a rich, tasty and healthy crop.

Topping tomatoes in open ground and a greenhouse

Tomatoes grade EupatorSo, two weeks have passed since you planted tomato seedlings in a greenhouse or open ground. It's time to feed the plants. Topping tomatoes in open ground or a greenhouse - is there a difference? What types of top dressing are there at all?

In recent years, gardeners (those whom I know) give preference to organics, trying less to use mineral fertilizers. Very popular is home-made cheap, but very effective “green fertilizer”. But about him, a little lower.

Types of fertilizing tomatoes

There are two types of top dressing. Root and extra root. Most gardeners use root top dressing. It feeds plants through the root system, that is, it is watering with a nutritious mineral or organic solution under the root.

Many people know about foliar, but they use it less often, but in vain. Foliar - this is when we apply the same nutrient solution directly to the leaves of plants. This type of fertilizing tomatoes with mineral or organic fertilizers has several advantages.

Firstly, it saves fertilizer. Because when we bring them under plants, a significant part of the nutrients is washed out with watering, during rain, not all nutrients go to the plant.

And when we bring the solution to the surface of the leaf, then all the nutrients pass through the leaf into the plant. Moreover, this happens very quickly. Therefore, foliar top dressing is much faster than the root.

Secondly, it is used to promptly help a plant suffering from a deficiency of one or another microelement. I try to use foliar top dressing more often for seedlings, for plants recently planted in open ground or a greenhouse, that is, for younger seedlings. For foliar top dressing, lower concentrations of the solution are used than for root seedlings, so as not to cause leaf burns.

Fertilizers are used for it, which are completely dissolved without sediment, which do not contain chlorine. Usually these are liquid forms of fertilizer mixtures, no matter what they are - mineral or organic.

Try to use non-chlorinated water for the preparation of nutrient solutions - rainwater or at least distant tap water. Both root and foliar top dressing are equally useful for tomatoes that grow in open ground, and for greenhouses. In the first half of the growing season, plants should be alternated.

In the second - go to the root dressing. A greenhouse with high humidity should be ventilated more often, especially after spraying. In order for the plant to get the maximum benefit from any top dressing, you need to know when - in the morning, afternoon, evening - it is better to carry them out.

When to feed tomatoes

A very important point: if you are doing foliar top dressing or root dressing, then this should be done in the morning or evening. Why is that? If we are talking about foliar, then the nutrient solution should be on the surface of the leaves for as long as possible, so that it can absorb.

And in bright sunshine, spraying leaves can cause a burn. This is the first. And secondly, the sun will quickly dry the droplets of the nutrient solution, it will not have time to completely absorb in the leaves.

When foliar top dressing, you should make sure that the solution falls not only on the outside of the leaf, but also on the inside. Under the root, water the plants with a mineral or organic solution, too, in the early morning or evening. I prefer evening watering, and my neighbor in the country watering her cucumbers, tomatoes in a greenhouse or open ground only early in the morning.

The reasons, too, seem to be clear: water or a nutrient solution that has fallen on the leaves during the day can cause a burn of leaves. You should not force the plant to waste energy on healing or healing wounds.

How often should feeding be done?

The question is usually asked, how often do you need to fertilize tomatoes with mineral or organic fertilizers? The short answer is not very often. And, more precisely, then I spend them, both root and non-root after 10-15 days. That is, about 2-3 times a month. I alternate them.

Once - foliar top dressing, next time - I feed my tomatoes at the root. I do foliar top dressing (spraying) in the first half of the growing season, that is, as soon as I noticed that the first fruits were full, they started to turn white, I stop feeding. And I continue to make root roots during the entire period of vegetation (development) of tomatoes. The first time is to feed the tomatoes 10-12 days after transplanting.

When the flowering of tomatoes begins, do not miss the deadlines - the number of ovaries and the crop will depend on this. In the greenhouse or open ground, top dressing is carried out as follows. It is necessary to feed each plant individually.

If the soil under the plants is dry, it is necessary to moisten the soil a little before top dressing. Water the tomatoes with clean water, the temperature of which is not lower than 20-22? C. When watering in a greenhouse, try to ensure that water does not fall on the leaves - there is no need for excess moisture there.

Water in the morning - after this, be sure to ventilate the greenhouse. And after watering, pour half a liter of nutrient solution under each tomato bush. I try to do foliar top dressing of tomatoes in the greenhouse in the morning, so that by the evening the nutrient solution is absorbed. Plants should be dry at night.

How to feed tomatoes in a greenhouse or open ground

For the first feeding after transplanting seedlings, I use liquid fertilizer based on humates. This year it is GUMI Kuznetsova (a natural fertility elixir). For 10 liters of water - 2 tablespoons of elixir. But you can proceed from the assortment of your shops for gardeners and gardeners.

It’s nice to use Gumat-80, Gumat + 7, Gumat-Universal, Emerald, Ideal. For 10 liters of water, 1-2 tablespoons of fertilizer is enough.

Add 1 tablespoon of instant mineral fertilizer (for example, Fertika Universal) to each plant. 0.5 liter of solution is enough. Tomatoes in open ground or in a greenhouse are better to undernourish than to overfeed. Therefore, when planting seedlings from mineral fertilizers I use only ash and compost.

After planting - humate-based fertilizer with Fertika Universal. And that’s all. The following dressings are organic only.

How to make organic "green manure" yourself

I really like the positive reaction of my tomatoes to "green manure". How do I cook it? Very simple. There are a lot of recipes for this “green fertilizer”. Its base is mowed green weed grass. I have an old metal 200 liter barrel.

But they do not advise using a metal barrel for the preparation of this fertilizer, apparently, the process of metal oxidation adversely affects the quality. I don’t have a plastic barrel. You know yourself, there are almost no hopeless situations.

I bought a huge 300-liter plastic bags. I put one bag in another (for strength), placed them inside the barrel. Filled 1/3 with water so that she straightened them.

The polyethylene was slightly warmed up by the sun, became elastic, stretched out, the bags were tightly clad outside on the edge of the barrel. I got a metal barrel with a plastic liner. So, I already had a little water in the barrel, I add mowed grass there.

Experienced gardeners are advised to fill the barrel with mowed nettles. But I didn’t have so much nettle, so I threw an almost full (2/3) barrel of different weeds, and nettle was there too.

I threw about 1 kg of wood ash, half a bucket of chicken manure on top, added 2 liters of milk “store” whey (natural, they say, 1 liter is enough), a pack of baker’s yeast (100 g). I added water almost to the top. This recipe was taken long ago from the book “Sense Agriculture” by Yu. I. Slashchina.

He calls this solution an infusion of microbial organisms. The author instead of yeast recommends adding mash - 3 liters of non-chlorinated water, insist 150 g of sugar for 2-3 days. The solution in the barrel roams very actively and stink, sorry for the details, not the most pleasant.

And you need to mix the fertilizer at least once a day. All this is insisted weeks 1,5-2. Then I take out the fermented grass. When it dries, I put it under the zucchini. Why zucchini - I do not know.

Somehow it happened from the very beginning. Zucchini is very grateful. You can try using this mulch on other plants. A little more than half of the nutrient infusion in the barrel is obtained.

Top up the barrel. I take the ready-made infusion (500 ml), add it to a watering can with water (6 liters), water the tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, pumpkins - half a liter of solution on the bush. Yes, I almost forgot. The effect will be better if the soil under the plants is moist.

That is, before root dressing, be sure to water the tomatoes in open ground or in a greenhouse. I really like the result of such organic dressing - the plants are always green, they look healthy, tolerate bad weather, grow very quickly, a lot of fruits are tied up and, it seems to me, less pain , that is, their immunity has increased. With this solution, root and foliar top dressing can be carried out. I usually spend foliar planting on young plants planted in open ground or a greenhouse.

Watering under the root - every 10-12 days. I have enough of this solution for a long time. But everything, of course, depends on the number of plants planted. If I feel that “green fertilizer” is not enough, then after less than half of it remains in the barrel, I fill the barrel with new grass.

I’m not adding anything else except water. I wait 10-15 days - a new nutrient solution is ready. This "green fertilizer" works well against late blight.

At least, it seems to me that after I started using it, there were almost no cases of late blight on the leaves, fruits. Last year (2013), only a few tomato fruits (5 pieces), growing in open ground, were thrown from one bush.

I did not notice any signs of late blight on the remaining bushes. But this garden year (2014) began with rainy weather. Humidity in the greenhouse and in the garden is high.

To prevent late blight on tomatoes, powdery or downy mildew on cucumbers, zucchini, I additionally treat the plants with a solution of milk whey (1 liter per 10 liters of water), to which I add 10 drops of iodine. This solution is especially beneficial for tomatoes.

Iodine helps to increase the number of ovaries, and whey has a depressing effect on pathogenic fungi. To prevent late blight on tomatoes, I alternate processing. Once with a solution of whey, and another with a solution of Fitosporin.

This drug not only protects tomatoes from the development of late blight, it also nourishes plants with bioactive microelements, especially its new modification - Fitosporin-M. Sometimes I skip lactic acid treatment, but I always replace it with Fitosporin solution, which well inhibits the development of fungal and bacterial diseases on plants. Do not forget that moisture, high humidity in greenhouses or in the garden during the rainy season have a beneficial effect on the development of late blight and others fungal, bacterial diseases.

Be sure to treat your seedlings, do not wait for the first signs of the disease to appear. If the disease has begun to manifest itself, then fighting it is already late and almost useless. So, the answer to the main question.

The yield of most garden crops depends on the nutrition that people provide them. Bell peppers are no exception. Like other vegetables, they need certain nutrients, so it will be useful for each gardener to learn how to feed peppers in a greenhouse and open ground, from seedlings to adult plants.

Peppers can be properly fed with both mineral fertilizers of industrial production and organic, but home-made. They need to be used more often, the poorer the soil on which these tasty vegetables grow, because they differ in an enviable "appetite."

Mineral fertilizers

Those gardeners who have long grown sweet peppers in their beds actively use ready-made mineral mixtures for top dressing, which include certain components. This is very convenient, because at each stage of development of this culture, it needs different chemical elements. For example, in the initial stage of growth, bell pepper especially requires nitrogen and potassium, so for the first time, take the following mixtures to feed seedlings:

Kemira Suite (20 g of fertilizer per 10 l of water);
GUMI Kuznetsova (2 tsp. Diluted in 10 l of water).

Even in this period, you can use a mixture of potassium sulfate (3 tsp), ammonium nitrate (2 tsp) and superphosphate (3 tbsp.). Dissolve it in 10 l of water. For the 2nd and 3rd feeding, use such complex fertilizers for pepper as: Crystal (20 g of powder per 10 liters of water), Agricola, Gomel, Uniflor-growth, Nitroammofoska.

Organic fertilizer

You can also feed sweet peppers with organics collected in your home. Below you will find recipes for using organic fertilizers.

Manure or bird droppings

If you have pets, use fresh manure diluted in warm water in a ratio of 1 to 10 and bird droppings - 1 to 20. Leave to insist for a day and water the resulting liquid with plants during their intensive growth.

Ash

Wood ash is another organic fertilizer that cannot be dispensed with when growing bell pepper. Young plants will need it already when planting on beds or in a greenhouse, so when you transplant seedlings, put a handful of ash in each hole. In the future, water them with an aqueous solution of this fertilizer, which is prepared in the ratio: 5 tbsp. l ash on a bucket of warm water.

Feeding pepper with ash is carried out separately from fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, both of mineral nature and organic, since they are mutually exclusive.

Kitchen waste

In addition to traditional manure and ash, you can safely use kitchen waste to feed bell peppers: stale bread, eggshells, dried banana skins, unsuitable dairy products.

There is a lot of potassium in bananas, therefore, powder from dry skins can be added to the soil already at the stage of planting seedlings, and then adult plants should be watered with tincture of fresh skins (insist for 3 days 2-3 pcs. In 3 l of water).
Milk and eggshells contain calcium in a form easily digestible by plants, so make them nutritious tincture for your pets. Take 3 or 4 egg shells, crush them into powder, pour it into a 3 L jar, fill it with hot water and leave for 3 days. Water the seedlings with the resulting solution.
You can fertilize pepper with fresh infusion of herbs that are easy to find in any garden: nettle, woodlice, dandelion and plantain. Cut them into small pieces, pour a bucket of warm water, insist for a week, and then pour pepper over this liquid (1 liter for each pepper bush).

Iodine

Feeding peppers with iodine pursues several goals at once: it stimulates growth, increases productivity, improves the taste of fruits, and prevents diseases. For feeding peppers, 1-2 drops of the usual alcohol tincture of iodine dissolved in 1 liter of water is enough. An additional 0.1 l of fresh whey can be added to this liquid.

Yeast

Feeding pepper with yeast is an agricultural method that is not yet familiar to all gardeners, but is very useful for sweet peppers themselves, since yeast contains a lot of useful substances: nitrogen, iron, phosphorus, minerals, and especially vitamins.

Yeast tincture has a double effect: it perfectly stimulates the development of the root and aboveground parts of these vegetables, and also activates the reproduction of beneficial soil bacteria.

To feed peppers, both fresh and dry yeast are suitable. Prepare the fertilizer as follows:

Take 1 kg of fresh yeast.
Pour them with 5 liters of heated water.
Leave to infuse for approximately 1 day.
Dilute the infusion in 5 buckets of water and use it for watering.

Prepare top dressing from dry yeast in about the same way. Take 1 sachet and dissolve it in 1 bucket of warm water. Add to it 2 tbsp. l sugar and leave for 2 hours. Then add 0.5 l of yeast liquid to 10 l of warm water. Such vitamin top dressing is needed not so much, it is enough to fertilize peppers 2 times for the entire growing season.

It should be noted that it is necessary to prepare yeast top dressing with the addition of ash, since yeast contributes to the fact that potassium in the soil becomes inaccessible for absorption by plants.

How to determine what peppers lack in appearance

Peppers will successfully grow and develop only if the soil contains exactly the nutrients they need and if they are balanced. To determine the shortage or excess of chemical elements can already be on the appearance of plants. If the peppers:

The leaves became pale green, yellowness appeared on them, and on the plants themselves there are few flowers, which means that they lack nitrogen. Pour them with mullein solution.
Yellow-gray speckles appeared on the leaves, and they began to curl into a tube - calcium deficiency. Stop feeding them nitrogen and potassium.
The leaves turn yellow, fade and fall, and the ripening fruits are too small - this means that there is a lot of calcium in the soil. Add nitrogen to the soil.
Pale green leaves are deficient in nitrogen. Water the plants with urea or mullein.
Dark green leaves with a reddish or bluish tint - phosphorus deficiency. Add superphosphate to the soil.

Do not forget to monitor your wards and be attentive to their needs, and for this they will please you with an excellent harvest of tasty and juicy fruits.

Feeding Schemes

Fertilize bell pepper as follows:

In the phase of the first true leaves.
When the 3rd pair of leaves appears.
1 week before planting in the ground.
10 days after planting.
In the budding phase.
During fruiting.

These are the main stages of pepper nutrition at home. Let's consider in more detail than fertilizing peppers in different periods of vegetation.

Seedlings after a pick

Very young peppers do not need highly concentrated fertilizer, they are still enough and a weak solution. Therefore, to feed peppers after a pick, which is carried out 1 week after this procedure, use the following mixture:

ammonia and potassium nitrate - 1 g;
superphosphate - 3 g.

Dissolve it in 1 liter of heated water and carefully pour under each bush. Spend 2 more such stimulating dressings with an interval of 1 week, but in this case, increase the proportion of potassium to 8 g. Also, at this time, you can fertilize the culture with liquid mineral complexes or regular black tea. Take 1 tbsp. l tea leaves and fill it with 3 liters of hot water. Insist it for at least 5 days, and then proceed to watering.

How to feed pepper seedlings for growth at home

During the intensive growth of peppers, feed them 2 times each month, using synthetic industrial-made fertilizers and organics. At this time, they must be provided with a sufficient amount of nitrogen, calcium, phosphorus and potassium. For the first feeding of peppers, which is carried out in a phase of 2 leaves, use azofoska and nitroammofoska in the amount indicated in the instructions. From organic fertilizers, an aqueous solution of chicken droppings (at a concentration of 1 to 20), manure (1 to 10), and ash (1 to 50) accelerate growth well. Perform the second feeding after 2 weeks. At this time, peppers should already have 3 pairs of leaves.

What is the best way to feed peppers after planting in the ground or greenhouse

Fertilizing during planting is the first step in fertilizing young pepper plants. Before planting seedlings, put a little wood ash in each well so that the plants take root quickly. The first feeding of pepper after planting in a permanent place should be carried out after 10-14 days have passed. Rooted seedlings, in order to grow up, first of all need nitrogen, so feed it with ammonium nitrate, mullein, bird droppings, fermented grass according to the recipes described above.

Ready-made mineral mixtures can be used:

GUMI Kuznetsova;
Ideal;
Crystal;
Sudarushka;
Orton Micro Fe.

The following top dressing of pepper in the open ground also with an interval of 2 weeks. To feed peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse, use the same formulations.

How to feed pepper during flowering

Potassium is the element that stimulates the formation of flowers and ovaries, so when feeding pepper already blooming, it is necessary to focus on potash fertilizers. Use carbamide as well as dry potassium. Dilute urea for feeding in 1 bucket of water (1 tsp.).

A solution of superphosphate and potassium sulfate is also suitable. Take 1 tbsp. l first fertilizer and 1 tsp. second and stir in a bucket of water. Perfectly stimulate the formation of ovaries and dry mixes:

Ecohuminate;
Summer resident.

Sprinkle them near each bush in the volume indicated on their packaging and immediately water the plants.

During the fruiting period of pepper and for the rapid ripening of fruits

Mostly bell peppers need nutrition during the fruiting period, as they spend a lot of energy on the formation and ripening of fruits. Fertilizers for peppers must also be applied in order to make the fruit ripening process faster and more uniform. Fruiting peppers require phosphorus and potassium, so to get a good harvest, feed them superphosphate along with potassium salt with an interval of 2 weeks. In August, feed the culture with mullein infusion (1 to 20).

Basic feeding rules

Some gardeners, not very sophisticated in growing peppers, believe that the more fertilizer is applied to the soil, the more abundant the crop will be. But it's not always the case. If the earth is oily, rich in humus, and the peppers growing on it develop normally, do not get sick and bear fruit well, then fertilizers do not need to be applied, because an overabundance of nutrients is as harmful as their deficiency.

Use any fertilizer for peppers in the open ground and the greenhouse only if the plants are sluggish, stunted, they have few flowers, and the fruits are small. Especially do not abuse fresh manure and bird droppings - an excess of nitrogen will cause the pepper to grow a lush green mass, and there will be very few fruits on it.

Dilute all fertilizers in heated, standing water. Cold and chlorinated is not suitable. Follow the order: first water the ground, and then apply fertilizer. After each time, loosen the soil to break the crust.

Feed the plants no more than 1 time in 10 days, but also at least 1 time per month. Alternate mineral fertilizers and top dressing peppers folk remedies.

When applying fertilizers, try not to get on the leaves, as peppers can get burned due to too concentrated solution.

In the same way, you can also feed indoor pepper on the windowsill, which is no different from Bulgarian. Feed him the same fertilizers and in the same volumes as his sweet counterparts.

Golovin D.S.

Tell me, can peppers in a greenhouse do without fertilizers? And without what top dressing it will not be possible to grow a crop?

It’s almost impossible to get a good one and not make any top dressing, because pepper is very picky about the soil, and if it is not fertile enough, then this vegetable will simply refuse to grow and bear fruit in it.

The composition of mineral fertilizers directly depends on the timing of application, the variety of plants and even the weather.

So, during the active growth of stems and leaves, pepper is simply necessary nitrogen, but as soon as it has formed and it is time to bloom and form the ovaries, an excess of nitrogen already only harms the plant. If pepper continues to grow stems and leaves at a loss of flowering and ovaries, it is necessary to spray the bushes on top with a solution of superphosphate and significantly reduce the dose of nitrogen introduced.

But phosphorus fertilizers can be applied throughout the entire period, from the first shoots of pepper seedlings to the very ripening of fruits, because this substance has a beneficial effect on the development of the root system, and accelerates the growth and development of fruits.

Like phosphorus, the whole period is equally important magnesium with calcium. But the amount of potassium must be adjusted with regard to the weather. On warm sunny days, the dose must be reduced, and on rainy and cloudy days increase.

But organics, unlike mineral top dressing, it is always welcomed, regardless of the speed of the bush, weather and anything else. The main rule is to introduce organic matter in small doses and never use fresh manure that can burn pepper bushes.

In the fall, manure or compost at the rate of 5 kg per square meter of your greenhouse is brought into the prepared pepper beds. And immediately before planting pepper make humus.

Two weeks later produce first feeding. The first is better to add organic matter - bird droppings or manure, diluted in water. It would be nice to add wood ash there. The concentration of manure 1: 5, litter 1:10 should be observed.

If you do not have the opportunity to add organic matter, then you should use complex mineral fertilizer. Or here is a solution:

ammonium nitrate - up to 20 g;
potassium sulfate - up to 30 g;
superphosphate - up to 40 g;
water - 10 l.

Two weeks later second feeding mullein solution with the addition of mineral fertilizers.

IN third time root dressing is carried out after the first fruits are harvested. In composition, the third top dressing is similar to the second.

If the pepper lacks some special elements, they are additionally fed. Pepper will tell you exactly what the deficit is:

if the edges of the leaves began to curl - pepper signals a deficiency of potassium;
purple shade of the underside of the sheet - phosphorus deficiency;
gray is a lack of nitrogen.

As an ambulance, foliar top dressing can be introduced, because the aerial parts of pepper are able to absorb nutrients much faster than the roots. So spraying the plant with a solution of the desired element is much more effective in emergency situations.

For the most part, additional dressing is aimed at stimulating specific processes, such as flowering, the formation of ovaries, growth and ripening of fruits. They are able to speed up or improve certain processes, but do not replace complex organic and mineral fertilizing.

Feeding greenhouse pepper: video

Bell pepper belongs to the nightshade family and is a heat-loving plant, depending on the climate of the region, it can grow in soil, greenhouses or greenhouses. This vegetable is demanding on potassium and nitrogen, so the question often arises: how to feed pepper in a greenhouse? When feeding, varietal features should be taken into account.

At the initial stages, plants simply need phosphorus fertilizers, since they stimulate root development, and preparations containing calcium and nitrogen should be used to stimulate the formation of fruits. The soil substrate in a greenhouse or in a greenhouse for peppers should also have sufficient fertility, if the soil is sparse, peppers can stop growing and not give such desired fruits.

Pepper is a very thermophilic plant, and it is in the greenhouse that all optimal conditions of humidity and temperature are created, as a result of which bell peppers from the greenhouse will delight you with their appearance and taste.

Greenhouse soil preparation

Feeding Technique

First application

Second application

Feeding Mode

Conclusion

Greenhouse soil preparation

Growth processes directly depend on the composition of the soil in which the seedlings of peppers are planted, so before planting seedlings, it is necessary to prepare greenhouse soil.

For this, measures should be taken to disinfect the soil; for this, a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 l of solution per square meter) is used. Before planting make the following solutions:

a solution of rotted manure, one liter of mullein, a spoon of copper sulfate per 10 liters of liquid is used for its preparation. Such a solution is applied in a dose of five liters per meter approximately 5-6 days before planting seedlings of pepper;
a mixture of 20 grams of superphosphate, potassium sulfate and azofoski;
to prevent the appearance of excess dampness, the soil should be sprinkled with ash or dolomite flour, these substances can avoid an increase in acidity;
the introduction of sawdust, rotted manure and peat into the soil can improve its structure, sometimes crushed eggshells are used for these purposes.

In some cases, greenhouse soil is prepared in the fall, and 5 kilograms of fertilizer per meter can be used as nitrogen fertilizer, and superphosphate can be applied at a dose of 50 grams per meter.

After autumn top dressing, in the spring it is enough to dig the soil with a turnover of the reservoir.

Varieties of peppers grown in greenhouses should have a long growing season. Famous varieties of pepper for greenhouses are:

Amika F1 is an exotic look of peppers with cream-colored fruits;
The Golden Pheasant;
"Sun";
"Orange Miracle";
“Veronica”, “Anastasia”, “Kolobok”, “Shorokshary” possess red fruits.

Feeding Technique

To cultivate pepper in a greenhouse, it is very important not to abuse fertilizers, therefore it is enough to introduce useful elements every two weeks.

Pre peppers should be abundantly watered and only then fertilizer should be applied.

Then carry out loosening, if the soil surface is covered with mulch, loosening is not necessary. Organics and minerals must be correctly alternated throughout the entire growing process.

For proper top dressing, the following terms and proportions must be observed.

First application

At the initial stage, peppers are fed in the greenhouse 10-15 days after placing the pepper bushes in a permanent place.

Often seedlings are planted at the stage of reaching a height of 20 cm. At the time of formation of the ovaries, bird droppings should be made, observing the dosage of 1 part of the litter and 10 parts of water.

Important! Experienced vegetable growers recommend using herbs and microelements as microelements. In this case, various herbs (nettle, wood lice, sow thistle) are finely chopped, two pinches of wood ash and a bucket of rotted manure are added, put all this in a container of 100 l and add water.

In this case, the herbal gruel should be about 8 kilograms. Such a solution is insisted for 10 days, after which they are watered, approximately 1.5 liters per bush.

Second application

The second time, peppers are fed after 15 days, it is during this period that alternation should be taken into account, that is, if at the beginning you treated with mineral fertilizers, then the next time it is carried out with organo-containing elements.

As a top dressing, the following composition of useful substances is used: a glass of urea, half a bucket of bird droppings of rotted manure, all the components are poured into a container or container with a capacity of 100 l and water is added.

Then they are allowed to stand for 8 days, after which they are irrigated, at the rate of 5 liters of solution per meter.

The saturated green color of the leaves and stems indicates that the soil contains an excessive nitrogen content, in these cases you should prepare this mixture: add 10 teaspoons of potassium sulfate and superphosphate to 10 liters of water.

Spraying or foliar top dressing solves several problems:

to stimulate growth processes, peppers are sprayed with a solution: one teaspoon of urea per 10 liters of water;
if pepper discards leaves and fruit ovaries should be fed with a solution: a teaspoon of boric acid and 10 liters of water;
if the fruits are sung unevenly, then it is necessary to spray with a mixture of one teaspoon of superphosphate and 5 l of water.

To protect plants in the greenhouse from pests, spraying with an aqueous ash solution is carried out.

Important! Pepper negatively relates to excess nitrogen-containing fertilizers, such an excess leads to the formation of a saturated green ground mass, but inhibits the formation of ovaries and fruits.

Feeding Mode

To develop a feeding regimen during the growing season should be based on what fertilizers were applied to the soil in autumn and spring.

Peppers that grow in small greenhouses should be fed approximately once every two weeks 3 times per season.

Phosphorus fertilizers should be applied throughout the entire period, it can be said, from seed to the period of fruit formation.

Phosphorus has a beneficial effect on the development of the root system and accelerates the ripening of fruits.

Almost the same effect is exerted by magnesium and calcium, so timely and regular application of such fertilizers will help to get excellent yields of fragrant peppers.

Peppers need organic fertilizers throughout the entire period, the main requirement for such fertilizers is the introduction of drugs in small doses.

Important! To preserve the bushes, fresh manure should not be used as organic fertilizer, as it can cause damage and the bushes will simply burn out.

An effective fertilizer is a solution containing:

Ammonium nitrate - 20 grams.
Potassium sulfate - 30 grams.
Superphosphate - 40 gr.
10 liters of water.

Carry out regular inspections of the bushes, and if you find the following undesirable symptoms:

Twisting the edges of the sheet plates indicates a lack of potassium.
If a darkened color (violet) appears on the back of the leaves of the pepper, this indicates a lack of phosphorus elements.
The gray color of the stems and leaves indicates a lack of nitrogen.

In such cases, top dressing by spraying will help you, a huge plus of foliar top dressing is that the nutrients in this way quickly penetrate the leaves and stems and have a positive effect.

In rare cases, additional feeding is carried out, which have a targeted effect, for example:

strengthening growth processes;
acceleration of ripening effects;
stimulation of the formation of ovaries.

Conclusion

From the above information, it is easy to understand that in order to get a good harvest of peppers, three important steps should be done:

the right choice of variety;
prepare the soil well;
to develop a competent feeding scheme and know exactly how to feed peppers in a greenhouse.

Observing all the stages, be sure that you will delight your loved ones with the sweet and fragrant fruits of bell pepper. Good luck

Feeding peppers in the spring in the greenhouse. How to feed peppers in a greenhouse and what fertilizers to apply. How is landing in the ground

Care Features

Seed germination

Soil preparation

Transplant to the soil

Fertilizers for feeding peppers - dosages, folk recipes

Organic fertilizer

Mineral Mixtures

TOMATOES in a greenhouse: planting, pinching, garter, top dressing

Fertilizer beds

Vegetative top dressing

Pollination of tomato flowers

More articles about the cottage and garden

Spring preparation of the earth in the greenhouse

Basic rules for feeding peppers

Organization of feeding during the season

When to feed?

First feeding

Second feeding

Foliar top dressing

Topping tomatoes in open ground and a greenhouse

Types of fertilizing tomatoes

When to feed tomatoes

How often should feeding be done?

How to feed tomatoes in a greenhouse or open ground

How to make organic "green manure" yourself

Mineral fertilizers

Organic fertilizer

Manure or bird droppings

Ash

Kitchen waste

Iodine

Yeast

How to determine what peppers lack in appearance

Feeding Schemes

Seedlings after a pick

How to feed pepper seedlings for growth at home

What is the best way to feed peppers after planting in the ground or greenhouse

How to feed pepper during flowering

During the fruiting period of pepper and for the rapid ripening of fruits

Basic feeding rules

Feeding greenhouse pepper: video

Greenhouse soil preparation

Feeding Technique

First application

Second application

Feeding Mode

Conclusion