Roombox as a kind of miniature: do-it-yourself roombox, roombox photo

The roombox emerged as a simpler and quicker version of the miniature in comparison with the long-known dollhouses. Manufacturing dollhouse demanded from the miniaturist serious efforts to create and implement the project, including the assembly and decoration of walls, roofs, etc., and, besides, then the question of where to place it in finished form... As an alternative miniature that requires less effort to create, allowing you to focus only on finishing works and interior design, and a roombox arose. We have this hobby relatively recently (even the Wiki does not yet have an article devoted to roomboxing), however, this type of hobby is becoming more and more popular.

What kind of roombox is this?

Strictly speaking, a roombox is a display box used to display three-dimensional miniatures made to scale, or scale models. The name itself comes from English words room (room) and box (box) and translates as "room in a box."

Roombox rules

We continue to furnish the roombox with little things! Last time I stopped at the fact that boxes for flowers were made for the balcony. I thought of hanging them on wire squiggles ...

Something like this. But for some reason I didn’t like how it looked ... Either the wire was too thin, or I had not bent it neatly enough. In general, I changed my mind and decided to just glue the boxes to the railing.

I thought for a long time about what to make the earth from so that it would not get enough sleep, did not weigh much and looked good. I decided to try the sponge, although in the end I was not at all sure.

Marked and cut out a piece of a suitable size. By experience, I found out: it is much more convenient to cut with a clerical knife, and not with scissors.

And painted the sponge with gouache. It would have been possible with acrylic, probably, so that it would not get wet from the water, but it makes the sponge hard, and I wanted it to retain its texture.

On a whim, I took a sponge of a more or less natural color, green, and it was right - if in some places it shines through the paint, it looks like moss =)

Painted in three steps. At first, I carefully painted over with dark brown ...

... after that, with a semi-dry brush with black paint, I made stains so that the brown one still looked through from below ...

and finally, barely poked with ocher to create the effect of the light sediment that usually falls on the surface of the soil in pots. Now dry on the battery for a day! The sponge absorbs a lot of paint, so you need to dry it properly so as not to get dirty in the future.

After drying, the sponges can be put into boxes without even gluing - if the size of the sponge is chosen well, it holds itself perfectly, and if you wish, you can take it out and replace it with a new one, with new plants;)

To make the greenery, I plucked a rug and a ball from Fix Price ("all for 39 rubles"), which have long served as backgrounds for my residents.

A bunch of plucked bunches =) Greens will alternate in boxes after one.

Each bunch consists of four branches at the base. I cut off the branches and glued them into the box. Such an exciting activity that it was simply impossible to stop))) It's a pity, there are only five boxes, I would have stuck X)

Ready!

I was going to glue the boxes to the railing using a silicone glue gun ...

But it turned out that it does not hold objects well enough, and the boxes began to fall off after five minutes = (I had to glue it at a super-moment.

Here's what happened, it became much more comfortable!

Next in line is a table on the balcony. For it, I used the same wonderful 3mm thick MDF, 2mm wide slats, a ribbed dowel (round slats) with a diameter of 8mm and a piece of a wooden ruler. I drew a table to estimate the dimensions. I proceeded with the details as usual - sawed off with a jigsaw, smoothed out irregularities with emery.

On one side of the table there will be an imitation of a drawer. I could have made a real one, but I didn't want to mess around this time.
The handle of the drawer was made from a wooden bead, having covered the holes at both ends with textured paste. Slightly cut off the bead with a knife from the side where it will be attached to the box, so that it fits snugly. Glued to the super-moment.

Glued the table. I'm not sticking the "box" yet - you need to achieve the effect that it is being used, which means that it should not visually connect to the wall.

Therefore, she primed and painted the "box" separately from the table.

To slightly age the surface, I spread several shades of brown for glazing - light golden, beige, coffee.

And with an almost dry brush, I walked over the surface. The lighting was terrible, so I explain it on my fingers: beige and gold imitate the paint and structure of wood peeking through from below, and the coffee shade applied to the edges and corners creates the effect of chipped paint.

After all these manipulations, I glued the "box" to the wall of the table. Ready!

By the way, after such carpentry work, the hands become coarse - calluses appear from the jigsaw, and the dust and paint dry out the skin. To avoid such problems, I use olive oil at night. Recently I discovered its wonderful properties and now I cannot get enough of it! It helps better than any cream, it is absorbed faster and does not leave this sticky fragrance on your hands.

The room is almost completely inhabited, only a few details are missing. Most striking is the lack of curtains. We need to fix this!

For the curtain rods, I used wooden rulers and sushi sticks. You need to look for those that do not narrow very much towards the end. Sawed, sanded.

Primed and painted.

Glazed with green paint, which remained from painting the furniture in the room.

I used an airy scarf for the tulle. I stroked it, marked the curtains with a marker (I chose one that was easy to wash off the fabric) and cut it off. The width of the curtain is twice as long as the length of the curtain rod, so that beautiful folds are gathered.

I left a fringe along the bottom, which was along the edge of the scarf. I cut it off, otherwise it was too long.

I tried to smooth out the fringe for a long time so that it hung down beautifully. I tried it over steam from a kettle, and a hair iron ... But in the end, an ordinary iron did the best.

The label said that the scarf is 100% silk, which I didn't really believe. But it looks like it is. I tried to set the edges on fire so that they would not crumble, but instead of melting, they burned and smoked. So I twisted and used PVA. I smeared it around the edges of the curtains and dried it. Maybe I should have used matte acrylic varnish so that the curtains can be washed ... But I'm not going to remove them from the walls, so PVA will work =)

When the glue was dry, I ironed the curtains again and cut off the protruding threads. Perfect edge!

To hang tulle on the cornices, I bought large rings for jewelry with a diameter of 1 cm, I was going to sew them along the upper edge and thread the cornice through them ...

But when I started to bend the edge so that there was something to attach the rings to, it dawned on me: you can make it easier! Insert the cornice into this fold and be done!

So I did it - I sewed it top edge on a typewriter, leaving enough space to insert the sticks. I inserted them, in places with great effort - I screwed them up and left a little space.

I glued the fasteners on which the cornices will be held on the wall ...

And she pasted all this stuff on the wall above the windows. It turned out great, I think! The curtains can be moved at will.

• Availability of goods in a warehouse in Yekaterinburg;
• The largest assortment in the Russian Federation - more than 100 types of interiors in miniature;
• Delivery of any number of roomboxes for a total amount of 30,000 rubles (If this option does not suit you, we have a system)
• Shipments by the services of PEK, Business lines. Delivery to the cargo receiving office in Yekaterinburg is free!
• Consultations when placing an order, comments on any issue regarding the assembly and composition of all kits.
• We do not limit your prices in any way, we do not have a suggested retail price!

What is a roombox?

Our house has seen a lot of Rumbboxes, both collected and sent to all corners of Russia! We will advise on any issue 💛

➡️ "roombox" is ‘a room in a box’ (literally from English), a kind of miniature as a hobby, creativity, art. There are also the names "interior designer", "doll miniature".

➡️ Result of work - beautiful interior on a scale of 1:12, 1:16, 1:24 in the form of a room, a frame, a house, glass ball, boxes 🏡

➡️ Who might be interested in this? ALL at least a little assiduous people from 6 to 80 years old! 👩‍⚕️👨🏻‍🍳👩🏼‍🎓👨🏼‍🏭👩🏽‍🎨👨‍🚀👵🏻

➡️ Why do we like it? It is beautiful and unusual! This is an interesting gift, both in the form of a constructor and assembled! 💝

➡️ What are our roomboxes? These are assembly kits that have EVERYTHING to make the product a seamless, decorated piece!

➡️ What's in the kit? Stay in touch, I have already chatted a lot, I will describe the complete set in detail in one of the following posts. My photo is right among the parts in the assembly process 😺

Interesting? Request a wholesale price list!

!!! Below are retail prices !!!

Decorating a doll house is a long-term project, but a roombox is another matter. When creating a roombox, you can try different styles and techniques, experimenting with themes and not wasting months.

I already wrote: what a rumbox is, but very briefly. If you delve into this topic, then it would be more correct to touch upon the very concept of miniatures.

It is important to distinguish between game and collectible miniatures.

The miniature in the scale of 1: 6 and 1: 4 belongs to the game. Those. one inch of a thumbnail will correspond to six (four) inches of a full-sized object. It is called playful because it matches popular play fashion dolls. The 1: 6 scale is the most common in the modern doll industry.

Collectible miniature performed on a scale of 1:12, 1:24, 1:48. The smallest scale is 1: 144, it is also called a miniature for a miniature.

The most popular scale in collectible miniatures is 1 to 12. A miniature with such a scale is often called one-inch scale, and the scale itself has become an international standard.

Now it becomes clear that doll houses and accessories for them are different sizes, but more often on a scale of 1:12.

A collectible miniature is a long-term project, whether you buy accessories or make yourself. Usually miniaturists carefully select every detail and, if they immediately take on a full-scale project, namely Dollhouse, then it will take more than one month. Usually, beginners start by building a roombox, practicing skills in different techniques.

Here we are smoothly and come to the concept of roombox. So what is a rumbox?

A roombox is a small installation made on a miniature platform (showcase), in which it is placed, either separate room, or part of it. It can be a part of the street, or a separate detail of the interior. The roombox has no shape or size restrictions.

Anything can serve as a showcase for a roombox: a shoebox, a box from an old TV, a retro watering can, a housekeeper, and more. Here are just a few examples of unusual rumboks:

Ruboxes in books

Roombox - Christmas balls

Various bases from old watches, guitars, sewing machine, cups, etc.

Hello, my dear craftswomen and lovers of miniatures!
And just as good and kind people

As I promised, I am posting a step-by-step report on the creation of a roombox for dolls. Part 1 because there is still furniture (which is partly already there, but not yet filmed and described).
Who doesn’t know what a rumbox is, so that you don’t google:
Roombox(from the English room - a room and a box - a box, literally: a room in a box). This is a small showcase, which is a miniature room or part of it. As a rule, it is made on the accepted scale of 1:12. Slightly less common are the scales 1: 8, 1:10, 1:16, 1:18 and 1:24.
I decipher - 1:12 - this is the size of dolls from 9 to 12 cm, and 1: 8 - dolls with a height of 15-17 cm (exactly what I will show now - because my room is not so small).
Since, probably, the most popular company today that produces ball-jointed dolls BJD - "fairyland", which introduced the differentiation of their dolls in size by names, then dolls of 1: 8 scale are most often equated to this name PukiFee. And my Faina, who helps me tirelessly ... sorry - priests (after all, you constantly have to lie and sit to determine the sizes and heights) - of this very company, which is called PukiFee Luna.
Everything, the lyrical explanation is over, let's get down to a boring and long description.

The material for making walls and floors, as always with me, is plywood.
First of all, I figured out separately on a sheet of paper what and where I will stand in the room (including dimensions), based on this I designed doors and windows. In everything, I used Faina's help to measure the levels of window sills, windows relative to window sills, the height and width of the door.
The type of connection is my favorite pin-and-groove (a la "Lego") without glue. This allows you to increase the angle of shooting: you can remove one of the three walls and the other two will hold securely, connected to each other and to the floor.
I cut out the connecting spikes and grooves for them, check the connections, mark and cut out the window and door openings:

Here you can see that the plywood sheets are not just attached to each other, but connected:

I made windows and doors for this room box not on curtains, but on a pin mount (open in both directions). I did not shoot separately work on them - I will tell you in words. According to principle ordinary windows as they were before - two halves with sawn-through cells, between them - glass (in my case transparent plastic- which is used on toy boxes). For each window, 4 pieces with sawn-out cells were required, 2 of which are wider at the junction of the shutters (to form an overhead strip - so that there is no gap between the shutters of the closed window). Windows should be inserted into openings freely with gaps around the perimeter for free rotation, as well as with a view to the thickness paintwork... Covered with paint before gluing the parts, so as not to stain the "glass". Fastening of windows to the frame is carried out after gluing all wooden (plywood) parts with "glass" and their complete drying. Parallel to the vertical axis of the frame, I set aside an equal distance in its upper and lower parts, which I mark both on the window and on the frame itself from above and below (all 4 points for drilling for pins). This distance should not be less than the thickness assembled window otherwise it will not open fully. I used thin nails with a diameter of 1.2 mm as pins. You can use metal clips, strong wire. After landing on the pins, windows and doors in frames are placed in the openings of the walls of the roombox.

You can fasten them using platbands specially cut for this purpose, in my case, these are curly portals. The lower parts of the frames are fastened by means of window sills, specially cut to size with pins, not through grooves for which are made in the wall of the roombox + glue.
She fixed windows and doors into walls after painting the latter.
The floor - in order not to invent something to paste over the plywood under the parquet, or to glue inlaid parquet from some sticks, thereby covering the wood of the plywood itself, I cut it under the parquet of the desired configuration and made not deep embossed grooves.
Here's what happened:

If something is not clear, or just interesting - ask, I will answer with pleasure.

The continuation will be about filling the roombox, if you still have not lost interest in it.
As always, I am glad for comments and friendly communication!