How to close the joints. How to close the joint between the stretch ceiling and the wall: a plastic skirting board or a decorative molding? Styrofoam molding

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

It often turns out that even in an ideal-shaped room, it is impossible to lay linoleum without a single joint due to the standard dimensions of the material. The resulting seams should be not only invisible, but also durable so that the coating does not rip up over time. The linoleum joint between rooms requires special attention, because it is in this place that the load on the seam is especially high. In order to choose a suitable method of connecting the coating, it is worth considering the possible options for the design of the joint and the devices used for these purposes.

Linoleum connection options

There are several ways to close the joints of linoleum. They differ both in the complexity of the work carried out and in the cost of materials and tools. At the same time, the quality of the final result will also be different.

Securing the edges of the cover with double-sided tape. This method is good for its cheapness and simplicity of execution. But the reliability of the connection of the joints in this case will remain in question - the glued edge of the coating will quickly begin to bulge.

The use of sills and linings for linoleum. Another inexpensive method, while quite reliable. The only drawback is that such an element will differ from the rest of the coating and protrude slightly above the floor surface.
Edge bonding with dispersion adhesive. Such compositions, which are also used for gluing the material to the rough surface, are environmentally friendly, but do not provide complete sealing of the seam.
... For the monolithic connection of the coating strips, glue is used, melting the edges and, after drying, firmly fastening them together. You can work with it at home, it is suitable for both household and commercial linoleum.

... It is carried out with the help of a special PVC cord, which melts under the influence of high temperature and fills the seam, firmly fusing with the edges of the coating and forming a single whole with them. The method is used for commercial type of linoleum, rather complicated for independent execution. The connection turns out to be invisible.

Let us dwell in more detail on how to close up the joints of household linoleum using decorative sills.

What are sills for linoleum joints

A gap in the doorway connecting the joints of floor materials between rooms is a simple and cheap way to fix the edges of the coating, hide the seam and possible installation flaws.

Advantages of the method:

It is very easy to fix the sill with the included screws or Liquid Nails glue directly to the subfloor.
The pad is reusable and easy to replace.
The bar will protect the material from moisture, dust and dirt.
The product will last a long time, especially if it is made of metal. Competent selection of color renders this element practically unobtrusive.
The walkways have a decorative function - the design of the room will look complete.
If you decide to lay coverings of different thickness on a single-level floor, an overlay on the seam will help smooth out the difference between them.

But the sills also have their disadvantages:

The plank will stick out (albeit slightly) above the floor surface.
The threshold can be mounted only in the doorway or under the arch; the seams in the middle of the room cannot be hidden in this way.

When installing the sills, you need to remember that they should not interfere with the complete closing of the doors - the edge of the canvas will have to be filed or installed after finishing the flooring.

Types of sills

To close the joints of pieces of linoleum with each other or with another floor covering, you can use overlays that are different in purpose and material.

Depending on the design and method of application, there are the following types of sills:

Straight lines - for linoleum joints of the same thickness.
Multilevel - compensate for height differences on the floor, with their help coverings of different thicknesses can be joined.
Finishing - for sealing the edges of linoleum without joining with other materials.
Corner - for finishing seams and edges of flooring on stairs.

Planks are made from different materials:

Brass and aluminum metal sills are the most popular because the connection is strong, aesthetic and durable. Most often they are painted in bronze, gold or silver.

Plastic thresholds have a shorter service life, but some flexible models can be used to design rounded joints, and the price of products is much lower. The requirements for them are spelled out in GOST 19111-77, which classifies door sills as semi-rigid products. In the photo below, the flexible strip performs several functions: it zones the space of the room and hides the difference in the thickness of the flooring.

Rubber pads can have an aluminum base, they prevent slipping.
Wooden sills and MDF planks are rarely used due to the high cost and the tendency to swell from moisture.
Cork products are popular for their environmental friendliness, softness and long service life. They perform a compensatory and shock-absorbing function.

How to attach the pads to the joints of the coating

Self-tapping screws or glue can be used to fix the strips. When choosing a mounting method, you need to take into account the features of both methods:

Mounting on self-tapping screws is much more reliable; in products with a decorative plug, fasteners are not visible.
The glue cannot provide such a strong connection, but it is suitable for cases when the subfloor is loose and cannot hold screws.

How to close up or close the joint

Regardless of what kind of ceiling is installed in the apartment - stretch, plasterboard, it is pasted over with tiles or wallpaper, or simply painted to make it look complete, you need to complete the final touch - to arrange the joint.

The gap at the junction of the ceiling to the wall looks untidy, and the structure itself is unfinished. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a way to decorate this area so that it does not stand out from the overall composition.

Joint design methods

Having perfectly flat surfaces of walls and ceilings, additional joint design may not be required, if the style solution of the room does not imply it, when molding is simply necessary to maintain a special atmosphere. If not, then the joint looks natural and even, forming a clear right angle without gaps.

Sometimes, with a perfectly even joint seam, in order to create an optical illusion and "raise" the ceiling, the upper part of the wall is painted.

If there are even small gaps, the use of special camouflage devices will be required at the junction. The instructions for the use of which usually consist in simple manipulations and do not require special skills and tools, so this work can be easily done with your own hands.

Stretch ceiling masking tape

The joint between the wall and the ceiling made of stretch fabric is masked with a PVC plug in the form of a special profile or insert (read more). The joint of several levels and the place where the structure adjoins to the wall acquire a finished neat appearance.

To do this, you need to place the plug in the baguette slot, where, during the installation of the canvas, the and, or profile, is inserted. When flooded from above, such an insert is easily removed, the canvas is dismantled and the water is drained, and then the product is installed in place.

There are several types of plugs for stretch ceilings:

For a neat connection of the stretch fabric and a few curved walls, an L-type wall elastic profile is installed in their direction;

To design the joint of the stretch canvas with a tiled or porcelain stoneware wall, use T-type plugs. In this case, the color of the product can be chosen to match the ceiling or in contrast;
If it is necessary to combine canvases of different color and texture, use a profile that differs from the shape of the baguette. In this case, the plug, masking such a profile, is fixed in a different way than described earlier.

The wide decorative collar is used for contrasting colors, creating a clear, visible border between the ceiling and walls.

Usually black or white inserts are used. White canvas is the most common due to the fact that the price for it is less, and the universal white color allows you to visually increase the height of the room.

With the help of a white edging, they mask the gap of the light canvas and the same wall. And with the help of black, the border between the two planes will be emphasized. You can choose a colored plug to match the ceiling or wall.

Due to the fact that in the manufacture of PVC tapes are stacked in bobbins of 100 meters or more, you can purchase products of the required length in the store.

Fabric cord

The use of a thick twisted fabric cord is an alternative solution when the question arises of how to form a gap between the stretch fabric and the wall. The product is pressed into the baguette slot.

With this decorative element, you can emphasize the transition between the ceiling and the wall, drawing attention to the structure, thanks to the expressive appearance of the cord. It looks especially impressive in combination with satin and fabric canvases.

Important! It is necessary to achieve tight contact of the cord with the wall and the edge of the stretch ceiling. If necessary, it can be "planted" on a sealant, but this will create difficulties if you need to temporarily remove the product.

One of the advantages of the edging cord is its flexibility, which allows you to design curved elements of the suspension structure. A wide selection of colors and textures allows you to choose the design for any interior. Such a cord will look especially organic against the background of fabric wallpaper.

Fabric cords are single-colored and multi-colored, consisting of several shades with embossed braiding. They can have metallic threads or rubber streaks as decorative inserts.

You can pick up products with a pattern of the required theme. For a rich classic interior, you can use lurex cords - imitation of silver or gold threads.

Ceiling molding

You can give a complete look to the ceiling - a stretch one, made of plasterboard or a simple one, painted white, with the help of moldings that have long become familiar. They can have different widths, material of manufacture, color and texture.

A wide range of products offered by manufacturers of ceiling decoration allows you to choose elements for decoration in any interior.

The term "molding" refers to various stucco elements for decorating the ceiling and walls. For the overlay profile, decorating the joint, use the name "ceiling molding", "plinth" or "curb".

The material for the manufacture of such products can be:

Wood;
Polyurethane;
Polystyrene;
Natural gypsum.

Wooden moldings

With the help, you can give the room respectability. This finish is appropriate in classic interiors, as well as where wooden suspended or false ceilings are arranged.

The price for such products depends on the type of wood that went into their manufacture. For skirting boards in the middle price segment, spruce, poplar or alder are used. Products made of oak, yew or mahogany are expensive.

The advantages of wooden skirting boards include the following:

Due to their natural origin, natural beauty and ideal environmental performance, wooden skirting boards can be used in residential premises;
Natural wood can be treated with wood stain, varnish, enriching its natural pattern and shade, or painted in any color with paint;
If you paint the molding in the same color as the walls, then the ceiling will visually become higher, and the room will acquire additional volume;
The space can be made compact by painting the plinth in the same color as the ceiling.

Important! Special skills are required to properly install the wood molding.

Styrofoam molding

Foam molding is the most budget-friendly option for decorating the joint between the wall and the ceiling. These products are easy to work with, they are lightweight and can be easily cut with ordinary scissors. But you should be careful not to accidentally damage the foam border, as it is quite fragile.

The disadvantage of this material, like wood, which was discussed above, is flammability.

Polystyrene molding

Manufactured by extrusion method. Such products are distinguished by clear relief and have an even matte surface. Such products are harder and more durable than their foam counterparts.

One of the positive qualities of this material is its affordable cost.

The advantage of this material is that it does not contribute to the maintenance and spread of fire. Polystyrene is also easy to work with, easy to cut, but more resistant to mechanical stress.

Polyurethane molding

The polyurethane skirting board is practical in use, it can be painted, and due to the presence of rubber in the composition, this material can bend without losing its integrity, which makes it possible to use it for the design of semicircular structures.

Such borders can have a smooth, even surface or patterned, with a clear pattern and maximum detailing of small elements.

Of the positive qualities of the material, the following can be noted:

Environmental friendliness;
Products do not have a specific smell;
The material is non-flammable;
Products are lightweight;
The material is easy to install;
Have a pre-primed white surface, which, if desired, can be painted in any color. This distributes the paint evenly.

Plaster molding

Gypsum moldings, which are also used to decorate the ceiling in the places of its transition to the wall, can be considered an exclusive type of decoration.

Not only because all parts are made by hand and have a high cost, but also due to some of the unique properties of gypsum:

Being a natural material, gypsum and products made from it are 100% environmentally friendly. They do not release toxins and do not cause allergies;
Gypsum is absolutely fireproof material;
Gypsum does not conduct electricity;

Not afraid of temperature changes;
Gypsum is a hygroscopic material. From the air, it takes away excess moisture, and if there is a lack of it, it gives it back;
Each piece is unique as it is created by hand. This allows you to make moldings of the required, sometimes non-standard shape and width;

Drawing and relief, created with his own hand, can have an accurate drawing of volumetric small details;
With the help of gypsum cornices, it is possible to successfully mask not only the joint between the wall and the ceiling, but also to advantageously arrange all sorts of technical holes, pipes, electrical wiring;
The finish is monolithic, seamless.

Gypsum stucco molding can be stained, patinated, acquiring an aged appearance, it can be covered with gilding.

The video in this article will tell you how to arrange the joint between the ceiling and the wall.

5,00 / 5 (1 rating)

Today, laminate flooring is the most relevant and demanded floor covering, which is used in almost all rooms and premises.

However, using it in rooms such as a hallway or kitchen is not entirely practical and advisable. For such rooms, the best option would be ceramic tiles. However, laminate flooring in the kitchen can be used in the dining area and the rest of the room is tiled. And here the question arises: how to close the joint between the tile and the laminate (see video below)?

In order for the joint to look neat and beautiful, it must be properly hidden. Keep in mind that the tiles and differ in thickness. Therefore, they must be laid out on the same level in order to get a smooth transition. Do not forget to leave a distance of 0.5 cm between the laminate and the tile so that the tree can expand or shrink from different temperatures and humidity, while not being damaged or swollen.

Installation of sills

A convenient and most popular way to seal the joint between tile and laminate is to install sills. Using the same technology, you can close any joints of floor materials, for example: between tiles and tiles. Today you are offered a huge selection of nut sills. They are different in material: plastic sills, wooden sills, metal or aluminum sills, etc. There are different types and colors. Let's take a closer look at the most popular ones.

Wooden sills

Wooden sills are the most popular, as well as environmentally friendly and most beautiful. They fit perfectly with laminate flooring. This can be seen even from the photo. However, with all this, they are inferior in flexibility to plastic sills. And therefore they are not used with a wave-like joint. I would also like to note that wooden sills are whimsical to use and require special care.

Plastic nut

For a wavy joint, a plastic nut is perfect. They have been on the market relatively recently, but they quickly became popular and in demand. The straps bend well, taking the desired shape and protecting the joint from dust and dirt.

Metal nut

If you want to use more durable material for the nut, then choose metal. Metal sills are perfect for any interior, as you can choose the desired color of the material from the variety on the market. The metal door sill can be chosen in the color of the laminate or tiles, and also consider the color option of any interior elements and thereby emphasize the design. If there is a situation that the laminate and tiles are at different levels, then in this case you can use a multilevel metal sill, which will help smooth out the difference.

Aluminum and rubber sills

Aluminum sills are used mainly for smooth joints. And for wavy joints, rubber sills are better suited. will not be difficult. This work can be done by hand and in just a few minutes. Just remember to leave 0.5 cm between the materials. To fix the nut, it is necessary to pre-make holes in the screed for screws. As a rule, they are sold complete with a nut. It is enough to fasten the nut with screws to make it motionless.

Fastening the sills

It happens that there are no screws in the kit. In this case, the sill between the tile and the laminate can be fixed in a different way. Immediately fill the gap with silicone sealant so that dust and moisture do not get into the gap. As a fastening of the sills, you can use the fastening rails, which are screwed to the screed with self-tapping screws. It is on the fastening strips that the laminate and tile sill is then attached. Alternatively, you can use liquid nails.

Flexible sill or molding

A flexible sill can also be used to close the undulating joints of various materials. It is installed on a plastic profile with bulges, with which it is fixed above the floor covering. Additional fixing with screws is required. To make the molding more flexible, before installing it, it is worth lowering the sill in warm water for about 20-30 minutes.

Why use sills and moldings

A gutter or molding is needed to close the joint between the tile and the laminate and give it an attractive appearance. The sills also prevent dust and moisture from entering, which will save your laminate from the inside. The splines also hide the narrowing and widening of the laminate. It also allows you to zone the space.

Experienced craftsmen know how to make the tile-to-tile joint invisible. Of course, when it comes to a straight surface (floor or wall), then there are no problems with the joining of tiles and tiles. Between them, plastic crosses are usually installed, which determine the width of the seam. After the adhesive has dried, the crosses are removed, and the seam is filled with a joint. Everything is very simple. The hardest part is joining the tiles in the corners.

There are several technologies for joining tiles in corners, where different fixtures are used. The simplest option is to install a special tile, which is a corner. True, this element can cover the outer corner, for example, the ledge of a column or a step.

The very process of laying corner tiles is no different from a straight line. It is also planted on an adhesive solution, which is applied to two adjacent planes adjacent to one corner of the room. The adhesive composition is leveled with a notched trowel, the tile is laid in place and leveled with a level. Even a novice master can handle this process. It is important here - to accurately align the cladding in planes, placing crosses between the elements.

Using trims

The most popular option for finishing corners is the use of trims. These are special insert profiles that are made of plastic. For outer corners, trims are L-shaped profiles, for inner corners, they are a concave arc profile. Before proceeding to the cladding, it is necessary to glue the profile itself. To do this, you can use liquid nails, sealants, or the tile adhesive itself.

It should be noted that the installation of trims is not only an even joint between the tiles, it is a kind of design approach to solving the issue of decorating a room. A good trim, precisely matched to the color of the tile, is also an excellent protection of the junction of the cladding elements, it is also a decorative element in the interior.

Trimming the edge of a tile

This is probably the most difficult option for exterior decoration of the corners of a room. The thing is that the ends of two adjacent tiles are cut at an angle of 45 °. This is not at all easy to do, especially if the conversation is about do-it-yourself pruning.

For this procedure, you can use a grinder, an electric tile cutter. The most effective is a tile cutter if it has an inclined bed in its design. That is, the ceramic material is brought under the cutter at an angle that can be set using the inclined stops. It is very difficult to make a cut with a grinder. A steady hand and a sharp eye are needed here. But even after that, you will have to work on the butt with sandpaper, bring it to maximum accuracy.

The very process of gluing tiles with an undercut is no different from a standard operation. Also, glue is applied, on which the tile is installed. The main requirement is to precisely match the tiles to each other so that they create a single whole covering that covers the corner of the room.

Internal corners

Now for the inner corners. Everything is clear with trims, special profiles are used here. Docking can also be done with a 45 ° undercut. True, you will have to trim in the opposite direction, that is, from the outside to the opposite. It is very important not to spoil the front side of the cladding, which can lead to the impossibility of installing the tiles.

There is an old way that masters have always used. To do this, the tiles were joined together so that one of them went under the butt of the other. It was not always beautiful, especially if the quality and dimensions of the cladding itself left much to be desired. Therefore, such a connection necessarily had to be sealed with grout or sealing was carried out using various kinds of materials.

Attention! If the tiles are joined at the corner between the wall and the floor, then the overlay of one element on the other will depend on the purpose of the room itself. So in the bathroom, ceramic floor tiles should go beyond the wall. This is done with one single purpose - to prevent condensation that runs down the walls from penetrating under the floor elements.

All of the above options for joining tiles to each other are not always the quality of the final result. Especially if a beginner is involved in finishing. Therefore, there are various materials with which you can hide lining defects. And then the question arises, what is the best way to seal the joint? Basically, there are two standard options: grout and decorative profile. The second is better because it completely hides the corner, and therefore the defects. At the same time, it is installed already on the finished cladding, gluing either with liquid nails or with a sealant (preferably silicone).

We must pay tribute to manufacturers who are trying to find ways to protect the junction of the tile and the bath from leaks. In fact, this is the most dangerous area through which water can penetrate under the plumbing fixture, where it will collect and become a source of mold and mildew. And it will be trumpet to get rid of them already.

Options to close this joint.

If the wall under the bathroom is lined in the same way as the rest of the surface, that is, the device will be pressed against the lining, then it is best to install a special curb (plinth) made of plastic or ceramics at the junction. In this case, the joint must be treated with silicone sealant before installing the curb. A plastic border is also planted on it. Ceramic is usually laid on an adhesive that glued the tile to the wall.
You can also seal the joint with a sealant, if the gap is not very large, no more than 1 cm.If this value is 1-3 cm, then the gap will have to be filled with polyurethane foam first.

Attention! For these purposes, it is better to use the so-called sanitary sealant. It will not form colonies of microorganisms (mold and fungi).

It should be noted that the sealant is very sensitive to unclean surfaces, it does not adhere well to them. Therefore, before applying it, the surface of the tile and bathtub must be cleaned with a detergent, and then degreased with solvent or alcohol. At the same time, so that the sealant itself does not leave its mark on the ceramic surfaces, which cannot be removed by anything, it is recommended to glue an adhesive tape to the joint, the middle of which must be cut along the joint. And this is where the sealing material should be directed. Then the tape is removed, and the joint surface is smoothed with a brush dipped in soapy water. A tiled joint sealed in this way is reliable in terms of complete tightness.

As a rule, the floor in an apartment in different rooms is trimmed with materials of different qualities and physical properties. Most often, their choice is stopped on porcelain stoneware and laminate. In this case, of course, floor transitions inevitably appear - the joints of tiles and laminate.

You can join the tile with the laminate in one of the following ways:
Flexible profile made of aluminum or PVC;
H-shaped profile made of aluminum or brass;
Flat aluminum nut.
Docking with a flexible profile

Before installing the joint between the tile and the laminate with a flexible profile, it is necessary to appreciate the degree of stress on this particular area of the floor. For example, if the transition is located in the area between the hallway and the adjacent room, then the load on the sill will be high. Therefore, it is optimal to mount a flexible aluminum profile in this area. At the same time, it is better to arrange the transitions between the bathroom and the corridor with a flexible PVC profile. In this area, constantly high humidity and the transition from aluminum can begin to oxidize and break down prematurely.

The flexible joint profile consists of two parts: a fixed base in the form of a letter "P" and an upper decorative cover in the form of a letter "T". The installation of the transition in this way must be foreseen in advance. That is, when tiling and laying the laminate, a seam of at least 20 mm is left between the materials, since the standard width of the U-shaped base is 14 mm. The remaining 3 mm along the edge of each vertical base flange serves as a damping gap.
Initially, an accurate measurement of the future floor connection is made. If the transition between different materials does not have an even, but, for example, a curved trajectory, then it is measured using a regular thread. The thread is laid out along a curved trajectory, after which the thread is pulled and its length is measured with a tape measure. Further, the workpiece necessary in size is cut off from the flexible profile using a small grinder. To mount the connection, begin by pasting the back of the U-shaped profile with self-adhesive damping tape.
After pasting, holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm are drilled in the U-shaped base with a step of 10-15 cm. Next, the base is laid exactly at the place of its attachment and marks are made on the surface of the screed with a pencil through the holes. In the future, according to the markings made, they are drilled into a concrete screed to a depth of 5-8 cm using an impact drill with a victorious drill in the chuck. Further, the U-shaped base is mounted to the screed using anchor expansion dowels. After that, manually with slight pressure, a T-shaped decorative profile is inserted into the U-shaped base from above.

The advantage of this method: over time, the transition can wear out, however, during its repair, no installation work will be required. It is enough to manually remove the worn-out decorative cover and install a new cover in its place in the base.
Disadvantage of the method: if a heated floor made of electric thermomats is mounted in the transition area, then it is impossible to drill into the screed.

Docking with H-shaped aluminum profile

This type of transition is characterized by the fact that at the end of the work you will get a joint between tiles and laminate without a sill, well, or the sill will be completely insignificant, with a height of only 1.5-2 mm. An H-shaped profile is mounted at the stage of laying porcelain stoneware on the floor. Laying on the glue and leveling the last row of porcelain stoneware, the lower shelf of the H-shaped profile is placed in the glue layer. At the same time, its upper shelf is 10 mm on the surface of the floor tiles.

If the moment was missed when tiling the floor with tiles, then in order to mount the H-shaped connecting transition, it is necessary to clean the glue under the edge of the tile to a depth of 25-30 mm with a knife. Further, all dust is removed from the resulting seam with a vacuum cleaner and a uniform layer of liquid nails is applied to the seam surface with a construction gun. Next, an aluminum transition is cut to size and inserted under the tile directly through the layer of liquid nails.
The opposite bottom shelf is attached to the screed either with liquid nails or spacer screws. When the liquid nails are well dry, the laminate is laid in such a way that it fits between the horizontal flanges of the profile at a distance of at least 10 mm.

The advantage of this method: it is possible to make the joint between the laminate and the tile with practically no sill.
Disadvantage of the method: for the reliability of installation, it is still better to mount the H-shaped transition simultaneously with the laying of the last row of tiles.

Tile and laminate joint with aluminum sill

I must say right away that we are talking about a flat or slightly curved sill made of aluminum with hidden fastening. Not to be confused with a sill with an open fastening, which is mainly installed outside the apartment on open surfaces or tiled steps.
By design, the aluminum sill with hidden fastening is a flat or slightly curved profile, on the underside of which small shelves are located at an angle to each other. To close the joint between the laminate and the tile with such a decorative sill, you must initially cut it to a strictly measured size. Next, you need to select anchor screws so that when the screw is placed in the groove, its head is held between the lower shelves.

If such self-tapping screws are not available, then they are made independently. To do this, take long self-tapping screws, shorten their length and grind the cap in a circle so that the self-tapping screw can be run between the shelves.
At the next stage, holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled in the screed at the installation site of the nut. The step between the holes should be no more than 15-20 cm. Empty PVC spacer tubes from the anchors are hammered into the drilled holes. Further, the required number of self-tapping screws is launched into the lower groove of the nut. Each self-tapping screw is lightly nailed by hand in a PVC spacer tube. At this stage, the nut and the baited screws should be perfectly aligned without distortions.
On top of the decorative sill, a dry floor cloth is laid in several layers, after which a wooden block is placed on the cloth. Further, by neat and even blows of a hammer on the bar, the entire nut is sludge, while the screws go into the spacer tubes and ensure proper installation. To make it easier to imagine this procedure, see the photo instructions for sealing the joint between laminate and laminate - everything is identical.
The advantages of this method: sometimes they remember the sill very late and, for example, the gap between the tile and the laminate is absent altogether or is a couple of mm, in this case a curved sill is used.
Disadvantages of the method: only coatings laid on the same level can be joined in this way, since it is technically impossible to make a joint that will cover the tile and laminate at different levels.