Household sewerage system in a private house. How to develop a sewerage scheme in a private house with your own hands. Video about a septic tank made of concrete rings

Ensuring comfort and quality life in a country house is an important point for any owner of such a building. One of the factors that make it possible to ensure a comfortable life is the convenience of the outflow of used water and waste products. A sewage system correctly calculated at the design stage and subsequently correctly built in a private house will be the key to long-term operation, in which there will be no problems. You can create such a design with your own hands, if you approach the issue with the utmost responsibility.

Primary requirements

In order to avoid any problems in the process of creating a sewage system in your own home, it is best to follow as much as possible in this process all the requirements and standards that are described in the regulatory documentation - SNiP. In this case, everything will surely function flawlessly for a long period of time.

In any building where a water supply is laid and there is a water intake, a system must be made that will remove the waste masses. Drainage mechanisms should be established at the sites as well. In general, such a network will be able not only to provide a comfortable life, but also not harm the environment, and will also significantly increase the time of using the building.

Typically, the sewerage system consists of the following systems:

• stormwater that drains water;
• outdoor;
• internal.

They must be laid so that the various construction sanitary requirements for the sewage system in your own home are met.

These requirements include:

• ensuring normal cleansing;
• no risk of flooding the building;
• ensuring the required volume of wastewater;
• tight accumulation and transportation of waste water.

If we talk about the requirements for internal systems of this type, then they should consist of the following elements:

• the riser to which all pipes are attached;
• dilution of pipes, which pumps waste water in the direction of the riser;
• plumbing fixtures for drainage.

According to the norms, in the mechanism, part of which is located in the building, there must be enough space for free transportation of liquid from the places where the drain is carried out to the pipes that carry out the output outside the building. When laying sewers inside a building, pipes made of cast iron or some kind of polymers are used. At the outlet, the size of such a pipe should be 11 centimeters. Naturally, this mechanism must also have ventilation. Usually it is passed through the riser. Above each element, an exhaust place is made that overlooks the roof.

If we talk about the project of external systems, then its creation is carried out taking into account the requirements prescribed in SNiP No. 2.04.03-85.

According to this regulatory document, the following points should be taken into account:

• wells should be installed in the mechanism for maintenance and cleaning;
• for the purification of effluents, a plant using biological methods is needed;
• if we are talking about a gravity network, then polymer, ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes are used;
• pipes that are located outside the boundaries of the building should be about fifteen centimeters in diameter and laid at the level of ten to twelve centimeters;
• if the building has few floors, then several houses can be combined into a single network;
• if it is impossible to arrange a gravity system, then it is better to make a choice in favor of a pressure sewage system.

Another important point is the selection of the design. This is really important when designing an autonomous sewer network.

There can be three options for septic tanks that are used:

• aerotanks;
• storage septic tank;
• treatment plant.

Now let's talk about them in more detail. Aeration tanks are the latest solutions using several cleaning techniques. After using such a septic tank, the liquid is purified to almost 100 percent. Water can be easily taken out into the ground, pond and used for irrigation. A septic tank of a storage category is an improved version of a cesspool in which no cleaning is carried out, but only drains are collected. When the septic tank is filled to a certain level, it becomes necessary to clean it. This is usually done using special sewage equipment.

If we talk about the differences from the cesspool, then no filtration into the ground is carried out in this case. This means that no harm to the environment is caused. But nevertheless, this type of septic tank has been used extremely infrequently in recent years due to the high cost of services for special sewage equipment. This type can be used only if you live in the house relatively infrequently.

Treatment septic tanks are used not only for accumulation, but also for the purification of sewage. As a rule, at first, the effluents settle in them, after which decomposition occurs at the biological level with the help of special bacteria - anaerobic and aerobic, which are specially added to the ground for this purpose.

Their use allows water to be purified by about 65 percent, after which it goes into the ground, where it is further purified.

For this reason, the best types of soil for this category of septic tanks will be sandy and sandy loam. If the earth is clay, then it is better to use another septic tank, although this option is not prohibited in this case. It is just that then the installation of a septic tank will be too expensive, since special styling will still be necessary to create filtration fields.

Views

In your own home, sewage can be of several types and is classified according to various criteria.

Usually these criteria can be three:

• the location of the sewage system;
• the purposes for the realization of which it will be used;
• the difference in the type of effluent that will be collected.

If we take the first two criteria, then the system under consideration is the following.

• Outdoor. It is a complex for receiving wastewater from buildings and other facilities and transporting them to special treatment facilities or to a place of discharge into the water intake of a centralized sewerage system. Typically, this includes pipelines, as well as rotary and revision type wells.
• Internal. Such a sewage system collects wastewater inside the house thanks to special water intake devices and pipeline systems, after which it transports them along the highway to a special external sewage complex.
• Cleaning and waste water. Before the wastewater is discharged into the ground or pond, it must be cleaned thanks to a special four-stage system, which consists of several levels (physical-chemical, disinfection, mechanical, biological).

If we take the criterion of the collected drains, then the sewerage is the following.

• Domestic. It can also be called household or household fecal. Usually it is designated K1. This type of sewerage includes the whole complex of devices that are supplied to various plumbing fixtures. This includes trays, ladders, siphons, funnels, as well as a network of various pipelines, which consist of pipes of different sizes, fastening mechanisms and fittings.
• Industrial or manufacturing. Usually in the schemes, its designation goes under the abbreviation K3. This type of sewerage is intended to drain water that is used in some kind of technological process. This type of sewage system is not used in their own homes, but it cannot be ignored.
• Storm or rain. This type is usually designated as K2. Such a system is a whole set of drainpipes, gutters, sand traps, storm water inlets, funnels, and so on. Usually, most of such a mechanism is laid in the open, but pipelines under the foundation can also be used to transport rainwater somewhere outside the site.

It should also be noted that the sewage system in a private house can be of two types:

• autonomous;
• centralized.

The type chosen will depend on where exactly the waste water will be discharged - into its own septic tank or into the central main through a collector-type well. If the local sewage system runs close to the house and the connection to it is cheap, then it will be more profitable to connect to it due to the fact that the cost of using in this case will still be lower.

In addition, treatment systems can be different in nature.

These are the following types:

• septic tank:
• dry closet;
• biological treatment using a special unit;
• cesspool.

The septic tank has already been mentioned, and therefore let's say about other types. A dry closet will be a suitable solution only for a cottage where the owners rarely live. And he does not solve the issue of drains from the shower and kitchen. Purification using a special station is advantageous with high productivity and a good degree of wastewater treatment. But the costs for this option will be considerable due to the need for energy consumption and the high cost of equipment. The cesspool option was not so long ago the most common. But recently, the number of drains has increased significantly, and few cesspools can cope with it. In addition, the risk of land pollution has increased significantly for this reason.

Preparatory work

Each of the above solutions for treatment facilities requires a clear understanding of the device and the purposes for which it will be used. For this reason, before starting work on the creation of a sewage system, the necessary preparation should be carried out so that the system can really work efficiently after it is built and put into operation.

What do you need to consider?

Before starting to create a sewage system, you should calculate everything to the smallest detail. And the first factor that will be extremely important is the choice of a place for the installation of the system.

Its placement will be influenced by such factors.

• How close the groundwater is.
• The relief features of the territory where the sewerage will be located. Here we are talking about the fact that the movement of water is usually carried out by gravity, which means that the slope of the soil will be extremely important.
• The physical structure of the soil.
• The presence or absence of sources of drinking water.
• How much the soil freezes in winter.

Sandy soil is usually loose, which is why liquid can easily pass through it, which means there is a possibility of contamination with household waste. Using the simplest solution as an example - a septic tank made from concrete rings or from tires, we will consider what needs to be taken into account. First, you need to calculate its volume. We will proceed from the fact that one family member who lives in a house takes two hundred liters of water, which must be settled for three days.

That is, for a family of four members, a septic tank with a volume of slightly less than 2.5 thousand liters will be needed.

In addition to the factors mentioned above, it should be said that the distance to the nearest residential building should be no more than five meters. It should be the same up to the next site. If there is a highway nearby, then the distance should be twenty meters. And if there is a reservoir or water intake point nearby, then the distance should be at least fifty meters. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that if an elevated level of groundwater is observed at the site, then the structure must be supplemented with a pump or pump for transporting groundwater to the filter well.

Another factor to consider is the choice of pipe materials.... It is on this factor that the time of using the entire mechanism will depend. If we are talking about an internal sewage system, then pipes made of polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride with a cross section of 11 centimeters are usually used here, and for breeding - with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters. Their cost will be lower than metal pipes, and their service life will be long.

Connections should usually be made with rubber cuffs, which are sealed with a special silicone-based substance. If we are talking about installing the outer part, then other orange pipes are used. They are made in such a color scheme that it is easier to find them in the ground. They are made of extra strong plastic and also have a diameter of 11 centimeters.

Design

As it became clear, any work of an assembly and construction nature cannot be carried out without the preliminary creation of design documentation. And the installation of the sewage system will be no exception. A sewerage scheme is being formed from the general layout of the so-called wet elements. The wiring can be configured as you like, depending on the wishes of the customer.

Important aspects should be listed that cannot be ignored:

• the drainage from the room where the toilet is located should be carried out exclusively using pipes with a cross section of 10-12 centimeters with a length of at least 1 meter;
• under the drains from the shower and kitchen, you can use polyvinyl chloride or polypropylene pipes of five centimeters in size;
• if the building has two or more floors and there is more than one toilet, then they should be placed exclusively on top of each other (for a one-story house this rule does not work and you can place it anywhere);
• wiring bends should be made by combining two plastic elbows, the bend of which has an angle of forty-five degrees, which should minimize the risk of clogging the sewer;

• the toilet should be connected directly to the sewer riser at a minimum distance from the pipe;
• other plumbing fixtures should be connected to the sewer network above the point of connection of the toilet bowl in order to exclude the possibility of feces getting into the drain line;
• the sewer riser must be brought out to the roof and a fan exhaust must be installed on it in order to ensure the inside of the sewer ventilation;
• the greatest distance for connecting sanitary-type appliances to the riser should not be higher than three meters, and the toilet bowl should not be higher than a meter.

In addition, other expert advice should be given:

• when creating a project for an internal sewage system, you must first draw up a construction scheme on a scale, before that, having carried out all measurements using a tape measure;
• now it is necessary to determine the installation site of the risers;
• conventionally, on all floors, we mark the location of the plumbing fixtures;
• depicting the location of the pipes on the graph;
• we determine the dimensions of the riser and the fan pipe based on the number of devices;
• we find the exit point of the sewer from the building;
• we summarize the length of all pipes and calculate the fittings;
• now we draw a conclusion and draw up a sewerage scheme.

Mounting

So, now let's move on to the direct installation of the sewage system in our own home and find out how to correctly conduct it. The laying of the sewerage after the project has been made and calculated should start with the installation of a septic tank. To do this, you need to dig a pit somewhere three meters deep. It is necessary to calculate in advance the volume of the septic tank, taking into account the number of people living in the apartment. You can make a pit yourself, but to speed up the process, it will not be superfluous to attract special equipment. A sand cushion is made at the bottom of the pit. Its thickness should be at least fifteen centimeters.

Now we create a formwork from boards or chipboard, which must be immediately reinforced with a special reinforcing belt. You can make such a belt from rods made of metal. You can use steel wire to tie up such rods for more confidence. Now we make a couple of holes in the formwork and install pipe scraps in them. These sections will become the entry points for the system line and the overflow pipe that connects the septic tank sections.

The entire formwork should now be concreted. A vibrating tool is used to evenly distribute the solution. Note that this structure must be monolithic, which is why it is usually filled in once. You should also cite as an example, and then, if you want to install a two-chamber septic tank. First, the bottom of the first compartment is formed by pouring concrete. As a result, we get a sealed structure, where waste will settle. It is in this part that large solid fractions of waste will settle down below. But in the second part, a slightly purified liquid will accumulate.

Due to the presence of a pipe that connects both compartments, it will go into the adjacent chamber.

There is no need to make the bottom in the second compartment due to the fact that the section is made on the basis of monolithic walls. You can also use concrete rings for this, which will simply be stacked one on top of the other. At the bottom we make a thick layer of sedimentary rocks. It will filter the drains. You can use gravel, pebbles or crushed stone. We install an overflow pipe between the parts. It is located somewhere in the upper third of the wells. Note that usually summer residents use a two-section septic tank when carrying out the sewerage installation process. Although, if desired, there may be more compartments, which will provide cleaning of higher quality.

It is also easy to make an overlap for a septic tank yourself. This requires concrete and formwork. Or you can take a reinforced concrete slab. In this part, it is imperative to make a special inspection hatch. It will allow you to control the hood, as well as the filling of the sections. After all this, when the installation is complete, it is required to fill the pit with sand or earth. It is necessary to clean the sump about once every two to three years.

The next step will be the laying of the highway. It will be carried out from the septic tank to the area where the sewer pipe comes out of the foundation. Note that the pipeline must go as if at a slope so that the waste water can flow down. It is important that the larger the size of the pipes used, the smaller the inclined angle will be necessary for the high-quality operation of the line. But the average is about two degrees.

Note that the sewer should be laid lower than the level of freezing of the ground. Usually we are talking about an indicator of one meter, but sometimes an indicator of 70 centimeters will be enough. Although if the region is cold, then the level should be increased to one and a half meters. Before laying pipes at the bottom of the trench, create a dense sand cushion, compacting it well. This will make it possible to carry out reliable pipe fixation and prevent the pipeline from collapsing when the soil is displaced of a seasonal nature.

If we talk about the most correct scheme, then for a summer residence, the best solution would be to lay a straight line from the building to the collector. If necessary, you can make a turn and install a well for inspection in this place. You can use cast iron or plastic pipes intended for the external type of sewer. At the joints, everything should be done as tightly as possible. When everything is ready, the trench is covered with sand, and only then the soil is put on it.

To connect the inside to the outside, corrugated pipes are used. This makes it possible to ensure reliability during ground movements.

To lay pipes in a building, we will need:

• sharper knife;
• saw for working with plastic;
• sets of installation seals made of rubber.

First, we need to prepare the fittings.

These are the following elements:

• transition couplings that can provide a transition between pipes of different sizes;
• three-hole or four-hole connection fittings that allow pipe branching;
• transition bends required to form transitions between pipes with the same size;
• bends that form corners, they can be 45 or 90 degrees.

In general, sewer installation in your own home will not be difficult if everything is calculated correctly. First, the installation of vertical risers is carried out in the required amount. Usually they are installed from the basement to the roof, so that this entire structure can be successfully combined with the ventilation shaft. The installation site is usually selected closer to the toilet bowls, which should be located no further than a meter from the riser. If the toilets are located, say, one under the other, and the house is small, then one riser for such a building will be quite enough.

Note that the farthest plumbing fixture should not be more than five meters from the riser.

Now the supply pipes are connected to the riser. First, the toilet pipes are connected, which should be lower than all the others. After that, the lateral branches are connected. Sometimes a large number of plumbing fixtures can be connected to the supply. It should be said that the thickness of the supply pipe should be taken with the calculation of the total capacity. The last step will be to connect the devices in question using siphons. Then everything will depend on the selected category of waste disposal, the properties of the land, as well as how the groundwater behaves. Therefore, for each case, everything will be individual.

It will also not be superfluous to give an example of creating a suburban sewage system without pumping out. Summer residents are increasingly looking at such systems, and therefore it will not be superfluous to explain how to make them. Note that such systems are represented by two or three-chamber septic tanks, which will be simultaneously active. If the mechanism has two reservoirs, the sump will occupy three quarters of the structure, and for three-chambered ones - one second. In the first part, the settling of heavy substances is carried out. As it fills, the liquid also enters another compartment, where the light parts are separated. In the third part, the water is completely cleaned of dirt and enters the well for drainage or filtration field. It is important here that both containers are airtight.

This type of system requires pumping out, but not as clean as when using a simple septic tank. This is done using a drainage or fecal sewage pump, the cost of which will depend on various factors. Such equipment will be used to remove sediment that accumulates in the sump. It should be noted that the frequency of this procedure will be influenced by both the composition of the waste water and the size of the reservoir. The structure will need to be cleaned when the sludge height reaches the overflow level. Then it will need to be pumped out.

For six months, the tank usually accumulates somewhere between 70-80 liters of sediment.

Standards for the location of sewer outlets for various plumbing fixtures

Any sewerage system can be designed in such a way that all plumbing devices that are connected to it have a minimum number of various intermediate elements, which will only complicate the mechanism of the mechanism and significantly reduce its reliability. An ideal solution can be called when the siphon coming after the plumbing fixture is immediately connected with a smooth pipe with a previously installed sewer socket. For implementation, it will not be superfluous to know exactly where the plumbing equipment will be located even before the creation of the project. And it will be even better to know which plumbing fixture will be installed in a given place.

At the same time, there are features for different categories of plumbing equipment, which make it possible to simplify the sewer connection. It and the placement of different plumbing fixtures will be seriously influenced by factors such as the level of the clean floor. Indeed, in relation to this parameter, the height of the equipment and sewer sockets and the location of the water sockets are being set. This parameter should be known in advance, which is why the installation of sewer pipelines can be carried out even before the floor screed is poured and the finishing type is applied.

Now let's say a little more about the plumbing standards related to the system for certain devices.

• The height of the connection of the siphon to the sink outlet for the washbasin should be at the level of 53-55 centimeters from the level of the finished floor. Its center should be right in the center of the washbasin. To create a connection, you can use sewer pipes with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters.
• The center of the socket should be at the level of 22-24 centimeters when it comes to a wall-hung toilet.
• In the case of a sink, this figure is 30-45 centimeters right in the center of the sink.
• If a garbage grinder is built into the sink, then the bell center should be at a height of 30-40 centimeters, but shifted to either side.
• For an attached type toilet, this figure will be somewhere between 18-19 centimeters.
• For washing machines and dishwashers, the connection of the drain hoses will be at a height of 60-70 centimeters.
• For bathtubs, as well as shower cabins with a pallet, it is necessary that the socket center of the sewer pipe with a diameter of 5 centimeters is at a distance of no more than 6 centimeters from the level of the clean floor. If this is not possible, then installation should be carried out on a stand. Although there are a number of models of bathtubs, the connection of which is carried out at the level of 8-10, or even 13 centimeters.

These recommendations work almost always, since the manufacturers of such goods try to comply with generally accepted norms, which, by the way, are not legally spelled out anywhere. But in reality it can be anything, so the actual availability of equipment that will be installed in a predetermined place will be a big plus.

Possible problems and solutions

It should be said that quite often, even without violations during installation, problems appear in the operation of the sewage system in your own home.

The most common troubles are as follows.

• The sewer smells bad. To eliminate the appearance of unpleasant odors, toilets and sinks are connected to the mechanism using u-shaped siphons, where there is always a little water. This type of barrier prevents unpleasant odors from passing through.

• Blockage. It often happens that the system clogs up, even if the installation was carried out according to all the necessary rules. For this reason, risers on all floors should be equipped with special tees so that there is no need to disassemble the system before removing the plug.
• Freezing of the sewer. This is another common problem. The reason is that many simply lay the sewer system above the freezing point of the soil. It should be said that this problem should not be ignored due to the fact that sooner or later the pipe may simply burst and then it will need to be replaced and repaired.
• Inconsistency of various elements with each other. To avoid such a situation, the installation should begin with the installation of the outlet-assembly that connects the riser to the pipe, which is suitable for the septic tank. The outlet is a metal sleeve with pipe cuttings. Its diameter should be greater than the size of the riser pipes. Usually we are talking about a figure of 13-15 centimeters. And the sleeve should crawl out of the foundation by 12-16 centimeters.

To prevent the above and other problems from appearing, you should be guided during the installation of such a system by the following principles:

• if the pipes have different diameters, then they must be joined using special adapters;
• using oblique tees, you can connect risers and pipe bends;
• the toilet should be located as close as possible to the main riser;
• the installation of an external sewage system should be carried out exclusively in the warm season;
• as you approach the riser, the pipe size should become larger, not smaller;
• where the pipes of the kitchen and bathroom intersect, a collector should be placed.

In order for the sewer mechanism in your own home to always work efficiently and efficiently, and also function well, experts recommend following a few simple rules. The first thing to do is to flush the external and internal pipelines with plenty of hot water on a regular basis. The second tip is that in plumbing fixtures, especially in the bathroom and in the kitchen, it is required to use dust collectors to prevent hair, dirt, and various insoluble substances from entering the drain.

Another important recommendation of specialists is to pump out various sedimentary masses from the septic tank at the right time, otherwise they may cause breakdown of the entire system. Another advice from the experts is to avoid letting fat waste into the drain. Especially when it comes to animal fats, which settle on the pipe walls and can cause clogging of the pipe.

Experts recommend, when purchasing components and pipes, to check whether a rubber lining is present in the bell, since many people constantly lose it. Under no circumstances should a drain pipe be connected to the ventilation unit. According to experts, when inserting PVC pipes into a ditch, it is necessary to carefully monitor the joints as much as possible due to the fact that the connecting places are extremely fragile and unstable.

It is also recommended to install an emergency outlet for cleaning the sewage system. It is usually mounted as close as possible to the pipe entry section into the building in an accessible place. In addition, if there is a usual set of water consumption points in the building, then it is completely unnecessary to install a fan pipe, you can limit yourself to a vacuum-type valve.

In general, as you can see, the creation of a sewage system in a private house is a process that requires serious calculations and great attention from the owner of the house. Moreover, the creation of such a system involves thinking through the water supply system at home. In addition, a lot will depend on what type of sewage system will be created. A pressure sewage system will have its own characteristics, and an external or internal one will have its own. In any case, for the competent implementation of such an undertaking, it is important to think through everything to the smallest detail and consult with specialists.

Living in a private house, you want to create maximum comfort for your family in it, ensuring a high standard of living, so it is very important to think in advance about such an important issue as sewage. Sewerage in a private house can be done by hand. This article will help you do all the work correctly, competently and without harm to the environment.

With the independent construction of the sewer system in a private house, you can significantly save money, but it is very important to carry out all the work correctly, in accordance with all the requirements that apply to construction and installation work of this kind.

The choice of the sewerage system scheme should be made in accordance with the layout of a particular house. When planning a house, it is recommended to provide for a compact arrangement of premises for which water supply and drainage will be carried out (showers, bathrooms, laundries, toilets, etc.). But the best option would be such an arrangement in which all plumbing equipment will be tied to one pipe (collector), through which wastewater will be drained into a cesspool or septic tank.

Experts advise, in the presence of a large house, in which several different rooms with a drain and a supply of water are provided, located in different parts of the building, to give preference to such a sewage system scheme, in which there will be at least two (and sometimes more) cesspools or septic tanks. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and bathrooms, toilets and kitchens are located on different floors, then in this case you will need to install risers.

Sewerage types

All work on the construction of sewerage in a private house with their own hands is reduced to the arrangement of external and internal sewerage. Internal sewerage works include the installation of a fan pipe, a riser and piping to rooms such as a shower room, kitchen, toilet, etc. from home to a deep cleaning station (a rather expensive ready-made solution) or to a homemade septic tank (with a filtration field or accumulative). Of course, if you have the opportunity to connect to a centralized drainage system, then the task will be greatly simplified. But in this article, it will be considered an autonomous system that includes effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank, and such a primitive method as a cesspool.

First of all, it is necessary to deal with the internal scheme. Even at this stage, it is necessary to think about the fact that all the premises to which the sewage system will be supplied are located as close to each other as possible, since later this approach will significantly simplify the arrangement of the internal sewage system. Each house assumes an individual sewerage scheme, which can be very diverse.

In this case, one should take into account the fact that pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm must be used to drain wastewater in the toilet. For gray drains that will enter the sewer from the kitchen or bathroom, PP or PVC pipes with a diameter of 50 mm should be used. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will further minimize the possibility of blockage, which is quite problematic to eliminate. It is safer and cheaper to use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polypropylene (PP) pipes in the sewage system, since they are more durable, more reliable and cheaper than cast iron pipes. And besides this, it is much easier to mount the internal sewage system using such pipes.

First of all, it is necessary to decide where exactly the collector pipe or riser will be located, and only then from it to engage in further wiring.

But before that, you should more accurately figure out how you can independently develop a sewage system for your home, because in the future, according to this scheme, it will be possible to make a complete calculation of everything (plumbing equipment and materials) that you need to arrange the sewer system.

You can perform a sewage system on a piece of paper in a box, but it is advisable to purchase several graph paper sheets for this task. In addition, you will need a tape measure, a ruler, and a sharp pencil.

For a private house, the sewerage scheme is drawn up in the following sequence:

• first you need to draw up to scale. If you don't know the size of the house, then you will have to walk with a tape measure and measure everything;
• then you need to decide where the risers will be located;
• after that, it is necessary to mark the location of plumbing fixtures on the plan and decide how they will be connected;
• at the next stage, it is necessary to mark the pipes that will go from the fittings and the riser to the plumbing fixtures, as well as all the connecting elements (tees, bends, and others);
• all of the above should be done for each floor of your house;
• then you need to decide on the dimensions of the fan pipe and riser;
• now it remains only to summarize the length of all pipes related to the internal sewage system;
• the next stage will be the external system, on which you need to draw up a diagram of the external sewage system, which includes the pipes coming from the deep cleaning station or septic tank to the outlet. Do not forget to take into account all existing SNiPs.

Since the conditions inside and outside the house are very different, then the pipes for these two sewage schemes are different. Currently, PP and PVC pipes, which have a characteristic gray color, are most often used for laying pipes for internal sewerage. For sun loungers and risers, the diameter of such pipes is 110 mm, and for drainage - 40 and 50 mm. But do not forget that these pipes are intended only for internal sewage, and other solutions must be used for the external one.

Most often, the pipes that are laid underground from the deep cleaning station or septic tank to the outlet are painted orange, which can be explained very simply - a bright orange color is more noticeable in the ground than the rest. But pipes for external sewage systems differ from the others not only in color - completely different requirements are imposed on them. Such pipes have greater rigidity, since they will have to withstand a significant load while underground. There are also more durable designs, an example of which are double-layer corrugated pipes. But the depth of laying pipes, when constructing a sewerage system for a private house, is usually small (most often up to 2 meters), so there is no need to use such pipes. Red pipes most often have a diameter of 110 mm, which should be more than enough to drain wastewater from the house.

Cast iron

Advantages: able to withstand heavy loads, durable and strong.

Disadvantages: expensive, heavy and brittle, the interior can become rough due to corrosion, which can cause clogging.

Polypropylene

Advantages: lightweight and flexible, making them the most demanded for indoor sewerage. They can withstand the high temperature of the waste water without any problems.

Disadvantages: if used for its intended purpose, then there are no drawbacks.

Polyvinyl chloride

Advantages: similar to cast iron, inexpensive and lightweight. Most often used for outdoor sewerage.

Disadvantages: the high temperature of wastewater is poorly tolerated, fragile (do not bend, but crack).

Pipe laying

Probably the most time-consuming process when building in a private house with your own hands is wiring and laying pipes. If you decide to perform these works yourself, then be sure to call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also the speed. It is also recommended to first check the tightness of the system by pouring clean water, and only then, after making sure that all the seams are reliable, you can start full-fledged operation.

Earlier it was said that the simplest option would be to use PP or PVC pipes for sewage. Currently, there is a large number of offers of these products on the construction market, so it will not be difficult for you to find revisions, tees, elbows and plastic pipes that are reliably and easily connected at the joints due to the presence of rubber cuffs. If desired, all joints can be additionally treated with a special plumbing sealant. And in those places where labor passes through a wall or ceiling, it is recommended to install a sleeve.

It is also necessary to remember about the slope of the pipes. In accordance with SNiP, in a free-flow system, the angle of inclination of the pipe depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, it is necessary to create a slope of at least 3 cm per meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, at least 2 cm per meter. Do not forget about this, since you will need to locate different points of the pipeline at different heights to ensure the required slope.

In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the internal and external sewage systems, it is necessary to begin the installation of the sewage system in the house with a release. The outlet is the boundary part of the sewage system that connects the pipe leading to the septic tank with the pipe that leaves the house (riser).

The outlet must be installed through the foundation at a depth exceeding the soil freezing depth, which is appropriate for your region. You can install the outlet higher, but for this you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter. If this is not done, then there is a high probability that you will be able to use the toilet only in the spring, after warming.

If this was not taken care of, then you will need to punch a hole in the foundation into which the branch pipe with a sleeve can fit. A sleeve is a small piece of pipe, the diameter of which is larger than that of a sewer pipe (130-160 mm). Such a sleeve should protrude at least 15 cm on both sides of the foundation.

Summarizing the above, we can say that at this stage you need to make a hole in the foundation (if it is not there) and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Do not forget that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. And the sleeve is needed in order to set the required slope of the pipe towards the septic tank (2 cm per one meter).

It is best to place the riser in the toilet, as the recommended pipe size that goes from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how the pipes will be mounted - in special boxes, walls, channels and niches or next to walls (fastening with pendants, clamps, etc.).

In order to connect the sewer pipes to the riser, you should use oblique tees, and at the joints of pipes that are different in diameter, you need to use adapters. Where pipes from sinks, bathtubs and showers intersect, it is necessary to install a collector pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm. Also, don't forget about water traps, which will help protect your sense of smell from unpleasant odors.

It is imperative to mount a special tee (revision) on each riser with which it will be possible to clean the blockage, if necessary. In order not to carry out work on cleaning the sewage system in the future, it is necessary to mount the cleaning after each turn.

The conclusion and installation of the waste pipe is assigned a very important role, since the waste pipe is needed for:

• maintaining atmospheric pressure inside the system so that hydraulic shocks and air pressure do not occur;
• increasing the durability of the sewer system;
• ventilation of the entire sewage system, which in turn is necessary for the efficient operation of the septic tank.

The fan pipe is called the extension of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that is brought out to. Before connecting the fan pipe and the riser, it is necessary to install a revision. After that, you need to bring the pipe at a convenient angle to the attic.

It is not recommended to simplify the work by combining the fan pipe (sewer ventilation) with the chimney or ventilation of the house. Moreover, it is necessary to locate the outlet of the fan pipe away from windows and balconies, at a distance of at least 4 meters. The height of the indentation from the roof should not be less than 70 cm. In addition, the ventilation of the sewage system, the chimney and ventilation of the house should be located at different levels.

Summarizing all of the above, we can say the following:

• at the first stage, you should start drawing up a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing, if possible, the distance from plumbing fixtures to the riser;
• it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes that go to the riser, in the course of connecting additional devices. Reducing the diameter must not be allowed;
• you need to adhere to a simple rule: the more the device has an outlet, the closer it should be to the riser. The toilet should be located closest to the riser;
• when wiring in a private sewerage house, sharp corners should be excluded, and pipes must be laid with a certain slope;
• those where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and revisions in advance;
• for ventilation of the system, a fan pipe must be present in the wiring diagram.

You can equip the sewage system in a private house with your own hands in different ways, which will be discussed below. It is very important to choose the right system that will suit all your needs.

It is necessary to choose a sewerage system arrangement scheme taking into account some parameters:

• temporary or permanent residence in the house;
• the number of people living in the house permanently;
• how much water each person consumes daily (depending on the availability of a washing machine, washbasin, sink, toilet, shower, bath, etc.);
• at what level does groundwater occur;
• what size is your site and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
• what type and structure of soil;
• climatic conditions.

To obtain more detailed information, you should study all relevant sections of SNiP and SanPin.

All sewerage systems for a private house can be conditionally divided into two types:

• storage systems (sealed wastewater tank, cesspool that does not have a bottom);
• structures designed for wastewater treatment (aeration tank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with two or three chambers and a filtration field, a septic tank with two overflow wells and natural purification, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil treatment).

A cesspool is the oldest and most proven method of arranging a sewerage system for many centuries. This method had no alternative even 50-70 years ago. True, in those days people did not use as much water in a private house as they do now.

Basically, a cesspool is a well that has no bottom. In the cesspool, you can make walls of concrete, concrete rings, brick or other material, and leave the soil as the bottom. After the sewage from the house enters the pit, relatively clean water will seep into the soil, being purified, and solid organic waste and fecal matter will accumulate, settling to the bottom. When, over time, the well is completely filled with solid waste, it will need to be cleaned.

Previously, watertight walls were not made in the cesspool, so when it was filled, it was buried, and another was pulled out in another place.

It should be noted that it is possible to arrange a sewage system in a private house using a cesspool only when the volume of average daily waste does not exceed one cubic meter. Only in this case, soil microorganisms living in the soil and feeding on organic matter will be able to manage to process the water, which will penetrate through the bottom of the pit into the soil. And in the event that the volume of wastewater exceeds this norm, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will lead to groundwater pollution. If this happens, then all water sources will be contaminated within a radius of 50 meters. If you add microorganisms to the cesspool, then due to this, the unpleasant odor that comes from it will slightly decrease, and the process of water purification will also speed up. But it's not worth the risk anyway.

Output. It is worth building a cesspool that does not have a bottom only when they do not live in the house permanently, but happen several times a week, without consuming a lot of water. Also, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the groundwater must lie at least one meter below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to avoid contamination of water sources and soil. The cesspool has the lowest cost, but even so, it is currently not popular in cottages and modern country houses.

In this case, it is necessary to install an airtight container near the house, into which sewage will flow through pipes from the whole house. You can purchase a ready-made container in the store, which can be made of metal, plastic or other material. But if you wish, you can make such a container with your own hands from concrete rings. The lid can be made of metal and the bottom can be made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of a sewage system of this type is complete tightness. For this type of sewerage, you can use corrugated pipes pragma.

Such a container will definitely need to be cleaned when it is completely full, for which you will have to call a sewage machine, which will cost you from 15 to 30 cu. The required volume of the tank and the frequency of its emptying depends on the volume of waste water. For example, if four people live in the house on a permanent basis who use a washing machine, toilet, sink, shower and bath, then the storage tank must have a volume of at least 8 cubic meters, and it will need to be cleaned every 10-14 days.

Output. If on your site the groundwater is quite high, then as an option for arranging the sewage system at home, you can use a sealed cesspool. With its help, you can completely protect water sources and soil from possible contamination. But the disadvantage of such a system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. For the same reason, it is necessary to think in advance about the place where the pit will be placed so that there is a convenient access to it. The bottom of the container or pit should not be deeper than three meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom. The lid of the storage tank must be insulated to protect the pipeline from freezing. The cost of such a container will directly depend on its volume and the material from which it will be made. The use of used European cubes will be the cheapest option, and the most expensive - brick or concrete fill. Also, do not forget about the monthly costs for cleaning the container.

The simplest option for soil cleaning is a single-chamber septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank is not particularly different from an ordinary cesspool, and sometimes it is called that. This structure is essentially a well, in which the bottom is covered with a small layer of rubble (at least 30 cm), and coarse sand is covered with the same layer on top of the rubble. In this case, sewage from the house goes through pipes into a well, where then water seeps through sand, gravel and soil, while being purified by 50%. Of course, crushed stone and sand significantly improve the quality of water purification, but this does not fundamentally solve the problem.

Output. It is not recommended to build a sewage system in a private house using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or with a large volume of wastewater. This option can only be used with a low water table and temporary residence. It will also periodically need to change crushed stone and sand, as they will silt.

The construction of filter wells and overflow settling wells is a fairly popular way of arranging sewage in a private house, besides, this option is quite economical and can be mounted independently.

This sewerage system consists of two wells: the first well has a sealed bottom, and the second has no bottom, but is sprinkled with gravel and sand.

From the house, sewage flows into the first well, in which feces and solid waste sink to the bottom, and oily waste float to the surface. Between these two layers, relatively clarified water is formed. The first well is connected to the second by about 2/3 of its height by an overflow pipe, which is located at a slight slope, allowing water to drain there without hindrance. A little clarified water enters the second well, which then seeps through the sand, gravel and soil, clearing up even more.

The first well serves as a settling tank, and the second one acts as a filtering well. From time to time, the first well is filled with feces and you will need to call a sewer truck to clean it. This should be done approximately every six months. In order to reduce the amount of unpleasant odors, it is necessary to add microorganisms that decompose feces to the first well.

The two-chamber described above can be made with your own hands from brick, concrete or concrete rings, or you can purchase a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, in which additional cleaning will be performed using special microorganisms.

Output. It is worth installing in a private house a sewerage system based on two overflow wells only when, even in a flood, the groundwater level is below one meter from the bottom of the second well. If your site has sandy loam or sandy soil, then this will be the ideal option. But remember that after about five years, the sand and rubble in the second well will need to be replaced.

Soil and biological treatment - septic tank with filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of one container, which is divided into several separate containers connected by pipes, or into 2-3 sections. Usually, if you want to install this type of sewer system, a ready-made version is purchased.

The first tank of a septic tank is designed for settling wastewater, as it happens in a conventional settling well. Further, the partially clarified water goes through the pipe to the second section or container, where all available organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. After that, the more clarified water goes to the filtration fields.

The filtration field is a rather extensive (about 30 sq. M.) Underground area, where soil waste water is treated. In this case, the water is purified by about 80%, due to the large area. If the soil on your site is sandy loam or sandy, then this will be an ideal option, otherwise you will need to build an artificial filtration field from sand and gravel. After the water passes the filtration field, it is collected in pipelines and directed to wells or drainage ditches. It is not allowed to plant edible vegetables and trees over the filtration field, you can only break a flower bed.

Over time, the filtration field will become silted up and it will be necessary to clean it, or rather replace sand and crushed stone. This is a very large amount of work, and in this case your site may be damaged.

Output. The construction in a private house of a sewage system with a filtration field is recommended only when the groundwater is at a depth of at least 2.5-3 meters. You also need to remember that there must be a distance of at least 30 meters from the filtration field to residential buildings and water sources.

With the help of a deep cleaning station, it is possible to carry out a full-fledged installation of the sewage system in a private house, even with a sufficiently high level of groundwater.

This station is a tank, which is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, having previously checked with the professionals about the necessary equipment and volume. The cost of such a septic tank starts from $ 1200, which is not at all cheap.

The first chamber of this septic tank is designed to settle water, and in the second, organic residues are decomposed with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third chamber, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed with the help of aerobic bacteria, which necessarily require a constant flow of air. To ensure this condition, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, which should rise 50 cm above the ground. In the pipe that leads from the third chamber to the fourth, a filter is installed into which aerobic bacteria are introduced. In fact, this is a filtration field, but it is concentrated and more miniature. Due to the higher concentration of microorganisms and a small area of ​​water movement, water purification is more thorough (up to 90-95%). Water purified in this way can be used for washing a car, watering a vegetable garden, and much more. From the fourth chamber comes a pipe, which is directed either into a drainage ditch or into a storage tank.

Output. For a private house where you live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is very simple - you just need to pour them into the toilet. Such a cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not require electricity to operate. The disadvantage is the fact that this station needs permanent residence, since bacteria deprived of wastewater will simply die. If you add new bacteria there, then they will start working only after two weeks.

Artificial cleaning station - septic tank with forced air supply

This is practically an accelerated cleaning station in which natural processes occur artificially. Arrangement of the sewerage system of a private house using an aeration tank is not possible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is necessary to connect the air distributor and the air pump.

This septic tank has three separate containers or chambers that are interconnected. Water flows through the sewer pipe first into the first chamber, in which it settles and solid waste precipitates. Further, partially clarified water is pumped into the second chamber, which is essentially an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of plants and microorganisms, is mixed with water. All bacteria of activated sludge and microorganisms are aerobic, therefore forced aeration is necessary for their life.

Then the water mixed with the sludge enters the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump, after which the sludge is pumped back to the aeration tank by a special pump.

Thanks to the forced air supply, wastewater is purified quickly enough, and the purified water can be used for various technical needs (watering a garden, washing a car, etc.).

Output. The aeration tank, of course, is quite expensive (from $ 3700), but at the same time it is very useful. There are no restrictions when installing this type of sewage system. Among the disadvantages, only the need for electricity can be noted, as well as permanent residence so that bacteria do not die.

If your site has a high level of groundwater, then drawing a conclusion from everything written above, you can opt for several options:

• aeration tank (aeration treatment station);
• septic tank with biofilter;
• sealed container in which waste accumulates.

There are certain restrictions on the placement of objects of the sewerage system.

Septic tank location:

• at least 10 meters from the garden;
• at least 20-50 meters from any water sources (reservoir, well, well);
• at least 5 meters from residential buildings.

Residential building location:

• 300 meters from stations and drainage wells;
• 50 meters from the aeration treatment plants;
• 25 meters from the filtering field;
• 8 meters from the filtering well.

Be sure to design a sewerage system for a private house and do not try to do everything without it, since the sewerage system is such a system in which there can be no approximation. It is best to contact architects or a design office, where professionals will help you create a competent project, taking into account the operating conditions, climate, site and soil. Better yet, if you do a sewage project together with a house project, even before construction begins.

The works themselves on the installation of a sewage system for a private house are not particularly difficult. You just need to properly dilute the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and bring them to the septic tank. For earthwork, you can hire an excavator, or you can do it yourself. The main thing is the preparation of the project and the competent selection of the sewerage system.

Disposal of human waste products is an indispensable condition for organizing comfortable living in private ownership. Therefore, a particularly important stage in the installation of a drainage system is the development of a sewerage scheme in a private house.

Gone are the days when an ordinary country toilet was a typical device for a private suburban homeownership, which is a plank booth and a cesspool. We suggest that you read the article.

At present, the sewerage system in the house is its indispensable attribute.

Types of sewerage systems for a private house

Water in your house or in the country is necessary, there is no point in arguing with this statement. But an excess of it is even more harmful than a deficiency. An excessively watered area is in an economic sense even more useless than a dehydrated one. Therefore, special systems are created to remove excess moisture:

1. Drainage sewer system designed to collect and remove liquid from moisture-saturated soil layers.

1. A storm sewer system that performs the function of collecting rain and melt water, its sewerage into special storage tanks and subsequent discharge into the storm sewer or into devices for use for household needs during a dry period.

1. Fecal sewerage, responsible for the collection, treatment and disposal of household and fecal wastewater and human waste products. We suggest that you read the article about that.

Any of these devices performs a specific function and has its own design differences in accordance with the purpose.

The nature of the effluent in each system assumes separate collection and sewerage of liquid from each type of these devices.

How to make a sewerage scheme in a house with your own hands

Such a document is a graphical action plan. The sewerage project makes it possible to correctly calculate the need for materials for the installation of a sewerage system for your home.

Watch the video

The basis for drawing up gutter diagrams is the project of the building, on which the places of installation of plumbing fixtures and their names are clearly indicated, which allows the correct selection of materials.

Factors affecting the composition and structure of the sewage system in the house

To determine the size and placement of the main elements when installing a sewage system in a private house, it is imperative to determine the level of water consumption. The calculation uses averaged consumption data.

As a first approximation, you can use the standard in the amount of 100 liters per person. When designing, one should adhere to the basic rule of placing the main outdoor sewerage equipment at a distance of no closer than 4 meters from the border of the site and no closer than 10 meters from a residential building.

In this case, the distance to the nearest water intake (well or well) must be at least 35 meters.

If neighbors complain about you, then the inspection authorities (sanitary and epidemiological service) will require that the distance be at least the above figure!

Below is a sample project.

The purpose of drawing up the plan is to locate the main equipment of the drainage system, determine the cross-section of the sewer outlets and select the appropriate fittings for the device of the gravity drainage network.

Elements of the internal sewerage system

These include the following details;

1. Siphon and kitchen sink drain.
2. The same device for the washbasin in the bathroom.
3. There is also a siphon and a drain pipe from the bathtub, and a ladder with a siphon from the shower stall.
4. Waste pipe and bidet siphon - in the toilet. In the same place - a siphon and a knee connecting the toilet bowl to the fecal sewer riser.

In a two-story house, these elements may be repeated on each floor, but they may not be present, then the appropriate adjustments must be made to the above list.

All of these parts are connected to a horizontally located branch pipe. Since we are talking about a gravity drainage system, the drainage channel during installation is installed with a slope of 2-5 millimeters in the direction of the drain and is connected to the riser of the drainage system.

The size of the branch pipe may fluctuate within the nominal size 32-50 mm... In practice, they usually prefer to do with one, maximum diameter, which simplifies the selection of fittings. See the diagram below.

All data on the use of plumbing elements are summarized in an axonometric drawing, in accordance with which you need to calculate the need for materials.

When laying sewer pipes in a country house, all connections must be made at an angle of 135 degrees, for which appropriate fittings are produced.

How to make an internal sewerage scheme at home yourself

Such a graphic document provides for the display of all communications in the house, including the spillway diagram. In this case, the following circumstances are taken into account:

1. All plumbing fixtures are installed on the floor along one wall, common to areas such as the kitchen, bathroom and toilet.

1. The kitchen provides for the installation of a sink, dishwasher and washing machine.
2. These units are connected to a common drain pipe through siphons that prevent air from the sewage system from entering the room with characteristic odors.
3. The drain pipe goes through a hole in the wall to the bathroom, where the following sanitary fixtures can be connected: washbasin, bathtub, washing machine - each device with its own siphon.

1. The next hole in the wall leads to the toilet, where the bidet and toilet can be placed.
2. All connections are made to a branch pipe with a diameter of 40-50 millimeters using tees at an angle of 135 degrees. The connections must be made "in a socket" equipped with a sealing lip for tightness.

The system for collecting and removing wastewater is free-flowing, therefore, there is a drainage line. This rule must be followed very scrupulously.

If the slope is insufficient, water flow will be difficult or impossible, and exceeding the parameter will lead to accelerated drainage. As a result, the water will drain, and some of the contamination will remain in the pipe, creating the prerequisites for future clogging.

The second significant node of the internal sewerage system in a private house is a riser that receives drainage water from a drain pipe. There can be several such taps.

For this reason, the diameter of the riser pipe is chosen in the range of 100-150 millimeters. The riser is necessarily equipped with an audit to monitor its condition and ensure the possibility of cleaning.

But functionally, this element of the system performs another important task - its continuation provides ventilation in the sewage system.

Another revision is installed on the upper end of the riser in the house, to which the base of the fan pipe is attached. It is led out through the ceiling and roof slabs. The upper end should be at least half a meter higher than the roof ridge to reliably remove unpleasant sewer odors.

In addition, when the riser pipe is completely filled with drainage water, the siphon may break.

In the filled pipe of the riser, a vacuum is created, as a result of which the water seals in the siphons are sucked into the riser. The air, which is not at all scented, enters the living space of the house through empty water locks. The result is obvious.

Such an unsightly situation is completely resolved by installing a fan pipe through which air enters the system, equalizing the pressure.

The drain pipe must be protected by a cap from clogging with debris and leaves. They are most often made in the form of a deflector that creates an upward air flow for ventilation.

Thus, the riser plays an important role in the overall drainage system and all the features of its structure must be taken into account when designing a sewage system.

Features of the sewerage device in a two-story private house

The device of the upper floor in a country house also provides for the use of a drain system. There are fewer drain points on it, usually a shower and a toilet.

To save money, the sewerage system on the second floor is laid in parallel with a similar network on the first floor. This simplifies the design and installation of the system, since there is no need to install a second riser - the drain will be connected to the existing one.

Elements of the external sewerage system

The external wastewater treatment and disposal system consists of a number of units, the action of which is aimed at the disinfection of wastewater.

The main ones are:

1. Filter wells or septic tanks. The first ones are the easiest to manufacture and operate. They represent a pit in the ground up to three meters deep. The transverse dimension can be up to two meters, regardless of its shape. The pit walls are reinforced with concrete or brickwork. They can be solid or perforated with 40-60 mm holes. At the bottom of the well, a filter up to 80 centimeters thick is arranged.

For it, you can use slag, gravel, broken brick. The latter is laid in the top layer of broken brick, the size of the fraction is about 50 millimeters. For the gravel filter, material from 15 millimeters is used.

1. Septic tanks. The container is divided by one or more partitions.

The drained liquid fills the first chamber. At the point where the liquid jet falls, a protective plate must be installed, which will not allow it to erode the sludge layer. A cartridge with a bacterial culture must be placed in the chamber, which will form the basis of the aerobic filter.

In it, the biological mass decomposes pollution. Water overflows through the upper edge of the partition and enters the second chamber, where an aerator is installed and the water is blown through with sprayed air. In this case, the oxidation of contaminants and their additional processing, this time by anaerobic bacteria in the presence of oxygen

When using a septic tank, the degree of wastewater treatment reaches 75 - 90%, which indicates the need for additional additional treatment for complete disinfection.

1. Soil field filtration
2. Sewerage projects are carried out individually, depending on real conditions.

This method is used for additional treatment of effluents when they pass through the soil. From the septic tank, the liquid enters the drainage pipe system, while passing through a gravel filter and a double layer of geotextile.

In this case, all fine particles are retained in them, and the degree of purification reaches 98%.

The limitation for the use of this method of additional wastewater treatment is the characteristics of the soil. The fields are ineffective on soils with low permeability - dense loams and clays. The most favorable are sandy gravel and sandy soils, which make it possible to make high-quality filtration of effluents.

1. Infiltrators. Infiltrates are established on poorly permeable soils. These are box-shaped plastic products with side grilles, closed at the top and open at the bottom. Depending on the volume of processing, up to 3-4 devices can be installed in series.

Any of the described objects can be used both together and in the configuration chosen by the buyer. The connection of objects is carried out by laying plastic pipes with a diameter of 100-150 millimeters, less often - for large objects - pipes of 200 millimeters are used.

In addition, each external sewerage facility is equipped with a ventilation system; inside the building, drain pipes are used for this purpose.

The use of septic tanks is most popular in areas with insufficient rainfall, while the purified liquid is actively used for reuse for household needs.

Outdoor sewerage design

These two components of a single task are completely opposite. If the internal sewage system is designed to collect wastewater, then the external one is for their disinfection and disposal.

Therefore, the rules for its design have only one similarity with the internal requirements - the slope from the foundation of the house towards the drive should be 1-2 millimeters per meter for the same reasons (see above).

The tasks solved by the external sewage system are the processing of wastewater in order to disinfect it. The water discharged into the ground after cleaning must be absolutely safe, since, after the final cleaning by ground filtration, it returns to the consumer.

Since the object passes into the external environment, it is necessary to take into account the depth of soil freezing. The pipe must be below this level.

But, even if this condition is met, it is advisable to insulate the sewer pipe in case of extreme climatic circumstances, which have recently happened with enviable regularity.

And to guarantee the integrity of the pipeline, with a critical drop in temperature.

Factors influencing circuit design

They can be both objective, caused by specific conditions, and subjective, arising from the appropriate attitude of the designer.

The first include the already mentioned depth of soil freezing, which affects the depth of the pipe in the outer part of the sewage system.

Also, objective reasons explain the choice of a method for filtering liquid purified by septic tanks. When installing a sewage system on clayey soils with low water permeability, a method using infiltrates is forcedly chosen.

The factors of the first group include the absence of a special closed shaft for placing a fan pipe. We have already seen its necessity. In such a situation, it is installed with an outlet through the wall in a wall-mounted version; it is mounted to the wall using brackets.

If the installation of a waste pipe in this option is also undesirable, you can use an air valve to relieve pressure in the sewer drain.

Varieties of sewage facilities and their functioning

For the disinfection and purification of sewage sewage in a private house, several methods are used:

1. Accumulation of liquid in a special container. Here, the primary separation of the overflow into solid liquid fractions takes place. It uses chemical and biological preparations that help to liquefy the mass and its partial processing by active bacteria. The culture can be purchased in specialized stores or in the construction market.

The above cleaning scheme is used in industrial conditions, but most of the operations in one form or another are carried out at home cleaning devices.

INFORMATION TO HELP !!! So, in the storage tank, chemical and bacteriological treatment of effluents is carried out. Further post-treatment takes place in the filter well. The filter in this case consists of gravel and sand. Good results are obtained by using granulated slag and broken bricks, which are good adsorbents.

The body of the well was made of a concrete ring with a diameter of up to 2.5 meters and a height of up to 2 meters. In the upper part, the neck was installed so that only the metal cover remained at the ground level.

A filtering mass is poured around the ring. It is also practiced to make the case with brickwork.

A further development of filtering devices is the manufacture of septic tanks with several chambers designed for various purposes.

The first tank serves for the accumulation of effluents, primary separation into fractions, chemical and biological treatment, aeration. Spray air treatment is carried out for additional oxidation of decomposition products contained in the effluent.

For this, a compressor is built into the cleaning system, which operates in a continuous mode.

In the last section of the treatment plant, a filter well is installed, in which additional wastewater treatment is carried out.

The design of an autonomous cleaning system may differ in different versions, but the principle of operation remains unchanged. The degree of wastewater treatment in modern septic tanks reaches 98%, which is a very high indicator.

However, the most modern device requires periodic pumping and cleaning of sludge.

Laying depth and angle of inclination of pipes to the tank

How deeply you need to place the elements of the outer part of the sewage system depends on the climatic characteristics of the construction region. One thing is obvious - the most dangerous for the pipeline is its freezing, especially if it is made of metal materials.

Most often, this phenomenon is behind its destruction. But the most unpleasant thing is that before the onset of warmth, you can forget about the operation of the sewage system. Only after it becomes possible to unearth the system is it time to spend money on repairing and rebuilding the system.

Routing and laying of pipes

As a result of the accumulated experience, certain rules for the installation of internal and external pipelines during the laying of sewers were formed. They look like this:

1. Regardless of the place and method of its placement, the type of pipes and other conditions, it is imperative to observe when laying a slope towards the drain. In this case, one should be guided by the requirements of SNiPs, since a certain slope is required for each pipe size. Violation of the rules by its magnitude leads, as a rule, to the formation of a blockage.
2. The distances between sewer objects should be optimal in length, if they exceed 4-5 meters, a revision insert is required. On 10-meter sections, you need to install a revision well.
3. When laying a sewage system in a country house (underground installation), the requirements of SNiP 2.04.03-85 and 2.04.01-85 must be followed in terms of observing the distances between individual objects of the sewer network.
4. In the conditions of Russia, an important factor is the location of the pipeline below the zero point of soil freezing. To ensure this factor, the trench must be deep enough, but you can go along the path of insulating the sewer, up to the use of heating cables when laying.
5. Sewerage pipes are laid only on a sand cushion and they also provide shelter from above. This stage is very important for their integrity.

When using plastic pipes, the sand layer must be compacted carefully. The best results are obtained with abundant water cover. In this case, the highest quality compaction occurs, after which it is possible to backfill with soil.
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The correct autonomous sewerage system of a country house can work for a long time, subject to high-quality laying and proper maintenance.

Insulation of sewer pipes

This event allows you to avoid carrying out bulk earthworks when laying communications in regions with a harsh climate and to protect shallow pipes from freezing. For this, various insulation materials are used:

• glass wool;
• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene, and many others.

For a complete guarantee, you can also install a heating cable with a switch-on sensor in case of a critical drop in temperature. The costs incurred will eliminate the need for repairs and associated costs. The sewer line arranged in this way does not need to be deeply laid.

Above, we have already considered the requirements for the angle of inclination of gravity sewer pipes for the internal system. They are also true for its outer part: 1-2 millimeters per meter of the length of the wiring.

Calculator for calculating the volume of storage capacity

A septic tank is a purification device that must contain and process the necessary volumes of household waste. First of all, you need to take into account that the septic tank, in accordance with sanitary requirements, should be enough for at least a three-day cycle of clarification / wastewater treatment.

Simply put, the minimum volume of the chambers of the treatment plant corresponds to the total three-day water consumption by all residents of a private house. There should also be a certain operational reserve in case of replenishment in the family, that is, an increase in the number of consumers.

Determining one person's actual daily water intake is not a straightforward matter; so, according to SNiP it is 200 liters; this indicator is now considered obsolete due to the widespread use of various types of household appliances that use water.

For example, it is believed that:

• taking a shower for 7 minutes will require 70 liters;
• using the bidet for 5 minutes - 40 liters;
• a single bath or jacuzzi - about 110 liters;
• 15 liters are consumed in one cycle of the dishwasher;
• 1 toilet flush consumes up to 9 liters of water.

Taking into account the above, in this calculator you are invited to choose and enter in the parameters for calculating the daily water consumption by one person from the range of 260-370 liters; this is the average range of recommendations.

SNiP 2.04.03-85, depending on the wastewater flow rate, allocates:

• single-chamber types - with a wastewater flow rate up to 1 m3 / day;
• two-chamber - up to 10 m3 / day;
• three-chamber - over 10 m3 / day; therefore, the above attached diagram is not mandatory, but serves only to demonstrate one of the possible options for a septic tank.

For small farms, reinforced concrete rings are most often used as anaerobic concrete containers. Reinforced concrete sewer structures are distinguished by their reliability, practically unlimited service life. The problem that accompanied them earlier - insufficient tightness, is now being solved by modern means of waterproofing. MDS 40-2.200 recommends placing the bottoms of the tanks at least 3 meters from the surface, which limits the number of rings in one section (chamber) of the septic tank.

The active volume of the septic tank (Vak) is defined as the product of the daily water consumption by one consumer (Q liters), the number of consumers (K) and the number of days (D) of clarification (sediment) of wastewater: Vak = Q * K * D. According to the recommendation of SNiP 2.04.03 -85, with the annual discharge of sediments, the minimum D is taken: 3, if the flow of wastewater is up to 5 m3 / day or 5, if the flow is more than 5 m3 / day. In addition, if you plan to clean the tank less than 2 times a year, then you should increase Vak by 20 percent for sediment.

When determining the height of the chambers (for example, from concrete rings), it should also be borne in mind that according to clause 3.35, MDS 40-2.200, the height of the air volume above the liquid level cannot be less than 500 mm.

The capacity of the septic tank should provide the content of the daily volume of wastewater. The amount of canalized liquid directly depends on the number of people living in a private house. As a first approximation, it is believed that one person consumes up to 200 liters per day.

The directions of these costs are quite traditional and are associated with economic and sanitary and hygienic consumption. Thus, a family of 4 people consumes about a cubic meter of liquid per day.

You can more accurately determine this indicator using the built-in online calculator.

Septic tank and cesspool

The most important device on the outside of the sewer is a septic tank or other wastewater filtering device. The installation of a concrete or brick structure is not associated with any particular features.

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But nowadays popular devices of a high degree of readiness made of plastic require additional attention. In areas where high levels of seasonal groundwater are manifested, the capacity may rise.

In sealed cesspools, the contents are retained for the entire time between pumpings. With a large family, such operations are performed quite often, because each person produces about 100 liters of wastewater per day.

The cesspool is located in a place convenient for the entrance of a sewage truck, no more than 6 meters from the border of the site.

The danger of cesspools is inadequate wastewater treatment. If this issue is not considered at all in sealed devices, then in filtration devices the degree of purification is about 75%, which is clearly not enough and pollution gradually accumulates in the soils.

Filter wells

Do-it-yourself installation of the sewage system of a private house is possible in other ways. So, the outer part is made in the form of filtering wells. This becomes possible on marl or sandy soils with high permeability.

The composition of the filter in this case is heterogeneous:

• a layer of blast-furnace slag up to half a meter thick is poured in the lower part;
• then comes a layer of gravel with a fraction of 15 millimeters;
• the top layer should be properly poured from broken brick, which exhibits strong adsorbent characteristics.

Large components of the filtrate are deposited on the upper layers of such a filter, then smaller ones. Filter wells are effective if biological wastewater treatment is used. The filter gradually develops aerobic bacteria capable of processing organic matter contained in wastewater.

It is possible and often used to dispose of the filtered liquid through drainage ditches into the nearest body of water. Waste water in the drainage canvas undergoes additional treatment by passing through a gravel-sand filter.

The degree of purification in the filter well, depending on the throughput characteristics of the soil, can reach 90-95%.

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In general, a filter well is a transitional stage from a cesspool to a septic tank. If you add another compartment with an aeration unit to the container, you can get a full-fledged septic tank. The atomized air actively oxidizes the wastewater biomass, forming another silt bactericidal layer, in this case it is represented by anaerobic bacteria.

Calculation of the volume of filtering structures for the sewerage of the house

You should understand the responsibility of the residents of the house for the ecological state of the place of residence. And in many respects it depends on the purity of the groundwater. Therefore, a number of documents were developed that regulate water consumption and water purification:

• Construction norms and rules 2.04.03.85, regulating external sewerage systems for private houses, as well as the arrangement of sanitary protection zones at small protective structures;
• SNiP 2.04.01.85 for internal networks and water supply in terms of determining the volume of effluents;
• manual on the procedure for the design of engineering support systems MDS 40.2.200, which provides calculations for calculating the volume of wastewater in private housing construction.

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The calculation of the volume of a septic tank can be performed both for a single-chamber scheme and for a multi-chamber one. With a consumption volume of about one cubic meter per day, one chamber is enough for a complete biocenosis of the contents of a septic tank.

With a larger number of drains, you need to use two or more containers, which are installed in series. Septic tanks from two or more chambers are divided equally, but it is possible to use devices in which the first chamber occupies up to 75% of the volume. It is important - it is prohibited to make cesspools according to sanitary standards!

The main importance in the development of a septic tank project for a country house is its working volume, which can be calculated according to the following algorithm:

• as the liter volume of the daily volumes of incoming effluents, multiplied by the time of their anaerobic processing in days;
• as the total amount of fluid in all compartments of the septic tank;
• the distance from the bottom of the container to the lower cut of the spout pipe is taken into account;
• from the volume, you need to subtract the height of the sediment layer, which can be up to 20% of the depth of the container, if cleaning is carried out in accordance with the rules - 2 times a year, this indicator can be ignored.

Making a calculation with your own hands, your own purification device with final purification by filtration through the soil, it should be noted that this is real with a liquid flow rate of 3-5 cubic meters per day.

If it is higher, you need to use SBR reactors or use a combined design with treatment with both anaerobic and aerobic bacteria, not excluding the use of aeration.

The use of biochemical materials for wastewater treatment increases the degree of wastewater treatment and accelerates its processing tenfold.

The use of biochemical treatment of effluents allows them to be purified to a degree of 98%, therefore, such water can be used to water the garden and at the same time get an increase in the yield. To fertilize the soil, you can

use silt deposits.

The principles of the sewerage pipeline

The main difference between drainage systems and other pipelines is the following features:

1. Gravity when operating under atmospheric pressure. The fluid flows through the pipe products under the action of gravity along a predetermined slope.
2. The flow rate is set by the angle of inclination of the pipeline towards the outflow. Moreover, its value should be strictly within 1-2 millimeters per meter. The reasons have already been mentioned above.
3. Tightness. For a gravity pipeline, it is provided by flared connection of the elements using a rubber cuff for sealing.

When installing the sewer system, it is not allowed to connect pipes with a bias from a common axis. Otherwise, a gap is formed between the wall of the part and the collar with the leakage of the transported liquid.

What pipe products to choose at home

For wastewater disposal systems, pipelines of various materials are used:

1. Ceramic. Such material is very durable, it is not subject to any effects of aggressive environments. The disadvantages include complex installation and heavy logistics.

1. For decades, cast iron sewer pipe has been the market leader. This material is almost ideal for the specified application. The material of manufacture is resistant to corrosion in most environments and has sufficiently high strength characteristics. The accuracy of the socket connection is ensured by the production method - casting. In addition, the use of cast iron pipes makes it possible to use capping during their installation to improve the tightness of the connection.

To facilitate the installation of cast iron pipelines, a large assortment of fittings is produced.

1. Asbestos pipes. Some of the positive characteristics of asbestos pipes do not cancel the main negative point - such materials are prohibited for use in housing construction.
2. Today, plastic sewer pipes have practically supplanted all other types. Simple delivery and unloading, the manufacturability of the material during installation and durability have led to the fact that they have become the main materials for those who decided to make a sewer with their own hands. The main method for assembling pipelines is in a socket. For internal systems, the main dimensions are:
   • For taps from plumbing fixtures - diameters of 40 or 50 millimeters;
   • For a riser and a drain pipe - size 100 or 110 mm;
   • For a drain pipe from a house to a septic tank 100, 110 or 150.

Conducting the pipeline from the house to the tank

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Therefore, a rule has been established that determines the installation of a storage tank at a distance of at least 10 meters from a residential building. However, there are sources that regulate this value at 5 meters.

It should be understood that this is an accidental discrepancy, but it is better to stick to the first installation option. In this case, it will be impossible to make a claim. But, strictly speaking, the correct installation of the tank depends on the throughput and filtering capacity of the soils on the site.

A prerequisite is the compliance with the slope in the parameters mentioned above.

To lay a sewer outlet pipe, you will need to open a trench of the required depth, determined by the level of soil freezing. Imagine the labor costs associated with fulfilling this requirement, because you also need to provide for the thickness of the drainage layer. If in the Moscow region the soil freezes up to 1.8 meters, then the depth of the trench will be more than 2.2. Therefore, many people prefer shallow ditches, insulating pipes with a protective jacket and heating cable.

The order of work is as follows:

1. The route is marked with pegs or a cord.
2. Excavation to a connection depth of about 60 centimeters.
3. The drainage backfill is about 20 centimeters of gravel and 10 centimeters of sand to the bottom.
4. Spill drain with water to seal.
5. The slope is marked using a cord and a building level. The upper end at the exit from the building should be 20 centimeters higher than the opposite at a ten-meter distance.
6. Pipes are laid section-by-section to a depth according to the laying scheme, the position is regulated by the bricks placed under them and sanding.
7. A heating cable is installed, secured with tape.
8. In the process of laying, a thermal insulating casing is put on the pipe.
9. The pipe with a cable and insulation is covered with sand, then with previously removed soil.

The use of plastic pipes for the external drainage system will ensure their integrity during seasonal ground movements, since they are elastic enough to withstand such loads. The sewerage device in your home made of this material ensures its performance for up to 50 years.

DIY installation cost

Payment for the services of invited specialists costs a lot of money. But if you analyze the installation technology according to the layout of the sewer system, it becomes obvious that there is nothing in it that could not be done correctly yourself.

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How to improve efficiency

Uninterrupted operability of the drain system, first of all, is ensured by high-quality installation.

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The only thing that can be advised to the user is to install a waste shredder under the sink in addition to the sewerage scheme, it will not be difficult to do it correctly. This action will largely protect the system from blockages.

Recordings

It is unlikely that a modern person can imagine his existence without comfort and the usual blessings of existence, therefore, when arranging a frequency house or summer cottage, first of all, it is necessary to properly equip the water supply system, and of course the sewer system, in compliance with all sanitary and hygienic standards.

Arrangement of the sewerage system allows you not only to use a bathroom, but also to connect sinks, a dishwasher or a washing machine and bring life on a suburban area closer to living in a city apartment.

Installation of the sewerage system is a laborious process and requires a serious approach, moreover, it is best to design the sewerage system at the initial stage of the construction of private buildings.

Before proceeding with the work, it is necessary to carry out the water supply and only then carry out the installation of the sewerage system, adhering to a strict sequence.

The main types of sewer systems

The modern sewer system is classified into three main types:

• Internal, where all communications are located inside the house.
• Outdoor, in which communications are located outside the house, which include cesspools, treatment stations, cesspools, septic tanks.
• The most important stage is to carry out the sewer system into the house, since all the main elements and wiring to the main highways will be located inside the building. At this stage, the correct arrangement is very important, which will ensure the performance and smooth functioning of the entire system.

Materials that will be needed when arranging the sewage system

The basis of a sewer system of any type is a common riser, which receives waste water. Everything that passes through the riser enters the laid external sewer system and drains into a sump located on the site.

Necessary materials:

1. Pipes, the number of which must be calculated in advance.
2. Taps for the sewerage system, the size of which must correspond to the diameter of the pipes.
3. Tees of the desired shape, which are necessary for branching the system.
4. Reducers and adapters for connecting pipes of various diameters.
5. Revisions to control the functioning of the sewer system and access for cleaning it in case of clogging.
6. Flare plugs that cover unused holes.
7. Special fasteners for fixing sewer pipes.
8. Sealant - sanitary silicone in pipes and a gun that is needed to apply it.

Important! For the riser, a pipe of a sufficiently large diameter (from 100 mm) will be required, since such a pipe diameter is used to drain drains from the toilet bowl. Install a riser in the very corner of the bathroom or in a pre-equipped shaft.

In addition, it is important to prepare all the tools and materials necessary for the work so that in the process of carrying out the work everything is at hand.

The drain pipe must be well fixed. It is also necessary to align the future places, the nodes of the joints, into which the outlet pipes from the sinks, toilet bowl, bathtub will enter.

To ensure better sealing of pipe joints and avoid leakage, the joints are lubricated with grease or silicone.

Since plastic pipes are most often used when arranging the sewer system, it is necessary to ensure their reliable fixation. the more reliable the fastening, the less the likelihood of deformation of the sewer pipes, since the mass of filled pipes is much greater than empty ones.

Self-assembly of the sewer system

Do-it-yourself sewage is quite simple, even without certain skills and experience. The main thing is to adhere to the sequence of work, purchase quality materials, and prepare the tool you need for work.

Important! If you are still unsure of your abilities, you can always invite professional craftsmen who will carry out all the work on the installation of the sewage system quickly and efficiently. However, in the process of their work, you can monitor the progress of work, gaining experience and at the same time controlling the quality.

It is very important that the drain pipes coming from the toilet or bathtub are inclined to prevent clogging and ensure the normal performance of the system. The angle of inclination for each meter should be between 2 and 4 degrees.

You should not purchase corrugated pipes for arranging the sewage system - it is better to give preference to pipes with an internal nasty surface. It is recommended to fix the pipes immediately after joining and joining. To do this, you need to build a box or gutter made of plasterboard or other waterproof material. This design will allow you to achieve reliable fixation and obtain a rigid system that will be resistant to mechanical damage and water displacement.

Important! When installing the transition between vertical to horizontal drainage, it is advisable to install a connecting element with an angle of 90 degrees in this place. This will help to significantly reduce the pressure load on assemblies and pipes when draining water.

To install the transition unit, you need to dig a deep hole of the appropriate diameter. This is also convenient because, if necessary, you can install a viewing sleeve, which will allow you to clean the system in case of clogging.

At the next stage, the drain line is taken outside the house. a hole is made in the foundation of the required size and a corner is cut out at an angle of 15 degrees and then a constant level of inclination of the drain pipe is set, inclusive, until it enters the drain pit of no more than 2-3 degrees.

You should not make a smaller slope or, on the contrary, incline the pipe too much. A small level of inclination will slow down the passage of drains, and with a strong inclination, wastewater will flow too quickly through the sewer pipes, leaving solid fragments on the walls, which will soon lead to blockage and disruption of the functioning of the sewer system.

Important! If located too close, the foundation may be damaged over time, and too large a distance can provoke stagnation in the system, especially if it has many joints and turns.

At the final stage, it is necessary to dig a trench for laying the pipe, the depth of which depends on the climatic and weather conditions in your region. If winters are harsh and cold, the trench should be deep enough to prevent freezing and damage to the integrity of the pipes. For greater safety, you can insulate the pipes with insulation before the final backfilling of the soil.

It is equally important to install several small inspection chambers along the entire length of the sewer pipes, which will allow an audit of the sewer system in case of blockages. Immediately before laying the sewer pipes, it is recommended to concrete the trench. The bottom of the trench should be as dew as possible without elevation differences.