At the palm leaves fell what to do. Why is dracaena dropping leaves and what should I do? Watering problems

Due to its tropical appearance, dracaena decorates the home interior and is widely used in the design of office premises. The plant is considered unpretentious and resistant to disease. But if you notice problems when growing this "palm", you need to respond urgently. First you need to accurately diagnose the disease, and then immediately proceed to the treatment of the disease.

Optimal home environment for growing dracaena

Dracaena is a beautiful tropical plant native to Africa, Asia and South America. Externally, the plant looks like a palm tree, but in fact it is not, but belongs to the asparagus family.

In nature, you can find multi-meter specimens with lignified trunks, long wide leaves of green color or with stripes of different shades.

In total, there are about 150 species of plants. The most popular are Dragon, Fragrant, Massangeana, Marginata (bordered), Deremskaya, Bent, Sandera (lucky bamboo), etc.

Varieties of dracaena - photo gallery

Dracaena Dracaena has variegated leaves Dracaena Dragon has as sharp as teeth of a legendary animal, leaves Dracaena Unbent leaves are bent upwards It is believed that Dracaena Sandera, or lucky bamboo, attracts luck Dracaena Massangeana has a strong tree-like trunk
Dracaena Marginata more than other species resembles a palm tree

Knowing the features of the growing conditions, it is easy to avoid the disease dracaena:

Dracaena diseases can be fungal, bacterial or viral.

We diagnose infectious diseases - table

Symptom	Care Error	Disease
Round stains of brown hues appear on the stem and leaves, later fungal spores form in their place and the lesion site turns black.	Fungal spores got into the soil, excess moisture	Alternariosis
The tips of the leaves dry out, spots with black dots appear inside.	Excessive watering, cold room, heavy soil	Phyllosticosis
Oblong spots are beige, yellow with a red or brown edging, a green coating is possible, the leaves quickly turn yellow and dry.	Improper irrigation regimen, infection in the ground	Heterosporosis
Spots of various shapes, brown stripes, deformation of young shoots.	Weakened immunity due to improper conditions	Spotted wilt
Yellow stripes on the leaves and moist brown plaque (rot) at the tips, ulcers on the petioles and stems.	Heavy soil, waterlogged soil, high alkali content in the substrate	Bacteriosis

Most dracenes are susceptible to fungal diseases. The most common of these are alternariosis and phylosticosis. As a rule, the disease occurs with high air humidity and excess moisture in the soil. Also, the cause of the disease is spores of fungi that could be in the soil or were introduced from the outside. For example, unsterilized garden equipment that has previously come into contact with an infected plant can become a carrier of an infectious disease.

If dracaena is transplanted into heavy garden soil, it is often and plentifully watered with running unsteady water, with a high degree of probability this will lead to a bacterial disease. Of all species of dracaena, Dracaena is most susceptible to bacteriosis.. This beauty is especially popular with amateur gardeners for the colorful leaves and the difference in their colors. However, these leaves are also often chosen by bacteria and fungus.

Professional gardeners note that dracaena is quite resistant to viral diseases. But still, rarely does a flower strike a spotted wilt. This virus can infect a plant in which immunity is already weakened. For example, immunity is reduced if the flower suffers for a long time from improper care or is damaged by insect pests. With a viral infection, dracaena stops growing and begins to fade.

Dracaena diseases - photo gallery

With phyllosticosis, the tips of the leaves dry. With alternariosis, the leaves can become brown stained. Spotted wilting leads to the fact that the plant can rot. Heterosporosis is determined by a green coating. With bacteriosis, the plant rots, the stem can become covered with ulcers

Dracaena insects - table

Symptoms	Pest	Treatment
On the inner side of the leaves there are dark (red) spots entangled in cobwebs; when the tick multiplies, white sticky plaque and white larvae appear on the leaves, trunk (similar to white sticks).	Wash sheets with hot soapy water (50 ° C), treat with acaricide. Repeat the procedure after 7 days
The sheet is covered with a silver film, black dots, similar to scratches, form inside the sheet; a sticky coating appears, the sheet bends and dries out.	Thrips	Spray three times with an insecticide (Decis) with an interval of 1-2 weeks
Withered dry foliage, the inside is covered with sticky mucus, beige and brown swollen spots inside the leaf plate.	Shield	Wash leaves with soapy water and spray with an insecticide (Fitoverm or Intavir)
White plaque, similar to the accumulation of cotton shreds or white sticks, is located in large groups on the leaves and sinuses, the leaves dry and deform, covered with sticky colorless drops.	Mealybug	Remove insects with soapy water, treat twice with an insecticide with an interval of 2 weeks
Leaves turn yellow, curl, dry out, sticky coating, there are many white dots on the underside of the leaf and stems (aphid larvae can also be yellow, green or black, depending on the species).	Aphid	Spray with insecticides up to 3 times with an interval of 2 weeks

Pests of indoor plants - photo gallery

The leaf is covered with a silver film with black dots inside. The mealybug looks outwardly like a cluster of cotton swabs. Aphids look like white specks.

We solve problems

The health problems of dracaena can be completely different. Let's try to figure out what needs to be done in each case. Let's start with the leaves.

If dark spots appear on the leaves, perhaps the plant suffers from excessive watering and stagnation of water in the pan. It is necessary to check the condition of the roots of the plant.

If the roots of the plant are completely rotted, the trunk of the dracaena becomes soft. This phenomenon can occur as a result of frequent and abundant watering of the soil. The plant is unlikely to be able to cure. The recommended temperature for healthy plant growth is from 16 to 25 ° C.

Rotting trunk of dracaena may be the result of frequent watering

If the trunk froze and became soft

Staying for a long time in drafts, outdoors or indoors, where the air temperature is below 18 degrees, dracaena freezes.

If the top is frozen, you need to cut it to a healthy trunk

At the same time, the stem of the plant may still remain alive (firm and firm to the touch), and the leaves become limp and lowered. They can’t be saved. If the top of the dracaena dropped, you need to rejuvenate the trunk:

Cut off the crown with a clean knife until the beginning of the living (dense) tissue. Discard the top, and sprinkle the place of the cut on the trunk with crushed coal.
Place the pot with the plant in a sunny place in a warm room (temperature 22–25 ° C). Eliminate the possibility of drafts.
Pour the flower with a complex fertilizer diluted half as much as indicated in the instructions.
Every week, spray the trunk and soil with a growth stimulator for plants.
Observe the correct watering regime and wait for the dracaena to recover and give side kidneys.

If the tip is broken

What to do if the top of the dracaena is broken and a healthy long trunk remains:

If the trunk is too long or crooked

There are times when the dracaena is rapidly growing: the trunk grows in height quickly, but in itself is thin and not strong enough. This can happen if the dracaena is completely satisfied with the conditions of her detention, but she is standing in a poorly lit place. For example, the trunk quickly becomes thin and long at the dracaena of the Bordered and Deremsky.

There is no need to rush to say goodbye to your favorite plant, because one can be done from one in such situations. Dracaena can be performed anti-aging pruning and divide the trunk into several parts:

How to treat Dracaena from lesions - details

To combat fungal diseases, the flower must be carefully treated with a fungicide. It is also advisable to transplant the plant and replace the infected soil with sterilized soil.

The use of fungicides in fungal diseases

For treatment, it is recommended to use a solution of Fundazole in the proportions of 10 grams per 500 ml of water. Spray the infected tree once every 2 weeks, repeat the procedure three times. An alternative to Fundazole can be the treatment of a sick plant with Topaz or another drug that contains copper. All procedures are carried out strictly according to the instructions and in a well-ventilated area.

Fundazole is used for any fungal infections of plants.

For the prevention of fungal diseases of dracaena, it is necessary to avoid waterlogging of the soil, cool and dark rooms, contact with untreated garden tools.

Viral infections and bacterial diseases of dracaena are currently considered incurable. Unfortunately, a diseased plant must be destroyed so as not to infect other indoor flowers.

Transplantation into sterile soil

With fungal diseases or with the development of root rot from waterlogging or freezing of an earthen coma, the roots begin to rot in the plant, fungal spores multiply in the soil. To get rid of them, dracaena needs to be transplanted into sterile soil.

Procedure:

Pull the flower out of the pot, completely free the root system from contaminated soil under running water.
With a clean knife, cut off rotten roots (they will be soft to the touch) to healthy parts and treat with Fitosporin solution (dilute the paste according to the instructions).
Place the finished substrate for dracaena in a heated oven for 10 minutes; for sterilization, the temperature regime should be set to 200 degrees. Cool.
To restore and build up the root system, choose a smaller pot for the flower (3 cm in diameter and less than the previous height). Add a layer of expanded clay, sterilized soil and plant dracaena in the usual way.

How to use insecticides

Leaves of dracaena are attacked by a scab, a spider mite and other pests, especially if the flower is in a cool room with dry air.

Actellik - one of the most popular insecticides. The drug Aktara has a hazard class 3 (moderately dangerous for humans). Fitoverm is considered the least dangerous drug from pests.

As a rule, treatment with folk remedies helps in the fight against spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, and scabies and thrips are destroyed after treatment with insecticides.

Green soap helps in the care of dracaena

Resuscitation of Dying Dracaena

If the dracaena has been ignored for a long time and already has a dying appearance, it is still worth trying to save it.

If the bottom of the plant has rotted

With frequent and plentiful watering, the roots rot in the dracaena, and later the trunk and the top rot. This situation can be called hopeless, the plant can only be thrown away. In rare cases, the leaves and part of the trunk may not have time to suffer, then you need to try to save the crown and root it like an apical stem:

With a sharp knife, cut off the apical shoot with part of the trunk (healthy and strong). The top should have a healthy appearance: the leaves are dense, and the trunk is solid. Make a cut perpendicular to the trunk, sprinkle the place of cut with crushed coal.
Leave the resulting stalk in the air for two hours, so that the cut point is slightly dry.
Place the handle in a transparent glass with settled water at room temperature and add a root stimulant, for example, Kornevin. Dilute half as much as indicated in the instructions.
Put a glass with a handle on a sunny windowsill.
As necessary (if it blooms), change the water in a glass, add.
When roots more than 5 cm appear, plant the dracaena in a small pot, deepening the cuttings with roots 2 cm in the sterilized soil.

If the top is dry

If the dracaena has not been watered for a long time, for example, during a long vacation, the plant can lose all leaves from a lack of moisture, and the growth point itself can dry out.

Drying of the growth point is irreversible and requires trimming of dracaena

In this case, there is still a chance to save the plant. For this:

First of all, the dracaena needs to arrange “bath procedures”. In order to wet the earthen lump well and uniformly and revitalize the root system, the flower pot should be placed in a basin for half an hour with standing warm water (water should be at room temperature).
The dried-up top should be cut with a sharp knife and discarded, treat the cut site with activated powdered charcoal and wait for the side (sleeping) kidneys to wake up.
Think about the height at which to trim the trunk so that the plant is aesthetically pleasing.
Spray the flower once a week with a plant growth stimulator, for example, Epin.
Watering should be carried out moderate once a week, while twice a month to introduce complex fertilizers for dracaena.
Put the pot with the plant 2 meters from the solar window so that the scattered rays of the sun fall on the plant.
A month later, dracaena should appear new leaves from the side buds.

When caring for and rehabilitation of a plant, observe the following rules:

Typical diseases of dracaena and their effective treatment with an explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.

Why do dracaena drop leaves? Causes may be the following: the plant goes through a period of acclimatization after purchase, a transplant was carried out with soil replacement, which violated the integrity of the root system, and the irrigation mode was incorrect.

Only a purchased plant must undergo a period of acclimatization under the new conditions. Dracaena is no exception. The level of illumination in the new room, humidity and air temperature - all this can affect the well-being of the flower. No need to worry if dracaena is only purchased and it has lowered leaves. For prevention, you need to inspect the plant carefully. If there are no pests on it, the root system is in order, the trunk does not rot - there is no need to take drastic measures. Experts recommend not replanting the flower within 1 month after purchase. After this period, transplant by transshipment and strictly follow the rules for caring for dracaena. As practice shows, all dracaena lower the leaves after the purchase. This is a normal occurrence. In a healthy flower, only the crown, that is, young leaves, will look up.

Dracaena dropped leaves immediately after transplantation. This indicates a violation of the root system of the flower, namely, very thin roots that form a spider web at the bottom of the pot. They are involved in plant nutrition and provide the plant with water. It is not recommended to transplant dracaena in a complete replacement of the soil. She is more likely to transship in a larger pot. Thus, the root system will not be injured.

However, if the transplant has already been carried out and the dracaena has lowered the leaves, while its lower leaves can turn yellow intensively, the following steps need to be performed: spray the flower with a cyclone (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water) and place it under the greenhouse or a spacious cap. Leaves should not touch the walls of the greenhouse. At the same time, watering is significantly reduced. Before the next watering, the ground in the pot should completely dry (you can 1 time in 2-3 weeks). On the contrary, it is necessary to spray the flower very often with ordinary water in order to maintain high humidity under the greenhouse. The number of sprayings depends on the room temperature. The colder the less often. Cycron can only be used once a week. At the first watering, the cyclone must be added to the water for irrigation. This stimulates the growth of the root system. After a transplant with a violation of the root system, dracaena lacks moisture. At the same time, intensive watering will lead to decay of the root system. The plant will replenish the lack of moisture through the crown. That is why in a greenhouse they maintain high humidity.

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Reason: Wrong watering mode. In the first case, the amount of moisture is simply not enough for the plant to maintain normal leaf turgor. In the second - there is too much moisture, which led to the decay of the root system. Through damaged roots, the plant also does not receive enough moisture. Increasing the number of irrigations will not solve the problem.

If dracaena lowered leaves due to lack of moisture, what should I do? It is necessary to place the flower under the greenhouse and conduct regular spraying. It is impossible to sharply increase the amount of watering, as this will harm the roots. Keep the plant under the greenhouse for 3-5 days. Watering the flower should be plentiful, but only after the earth coma is completely dry. Water from the pan must be removed.

Dracaena gets an excess of moisture. As a result, the root system does not cope with an excess of fluid and begins to rot. Damaged roots no longer absorb moisture from the ground, and therefore dracaena lowers the leaves. What to do? First of all, normalize watering. Next, you need to carefully, without violating the integrity of the root system, remove the dracaena from the pot by the trunk. Inspect the roots. If the root system is light yellow or white, but not brown, it is healthy. The plant is returned back to the pot and reduce watering. Watering should be plentiful, but only after the soil has completely dried in a pot.

If the dracaena lowered the leaves and its roots are soaked, flabby and have an unhealthy shade, this indicates rotting. Damaged roots are removed. The plant is transplanted into a new, special, slightly moist soil. Dracaena is placed under a greenhouse. Watering is minimized, and spraying, on the contrary, is speeded up. Can be added to spray water for cyclone. The plant is removed from the greenhouse when it begins to drive out new leaves.

Why do dracaena dry tips of leaves? Reasons: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime is violated, heavy soil.

Dracaena is a photophilous flower, and therefore its tips of the leaves very often turn yellow due to a lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown under indoor conditions, the ends of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination with an energy-saving lamp up to 12 hours. The flower must be placed at the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows do not fit the flower.

You noticed that the dracaena looks bad, the tips of its leaves are drying. What to do in such cases? It is necessary to pay attention to the watering mode. Perhaps the plant is waterlogged. As a result, its root system rots, leaves do not get enough moisture through diseased roots, and therefore their tips dry. Dracaena is watered only after the soil has completely dried in a pot. Watering in this case is carried out abundant, so that the water comes out into the pan through the drainage holes. Water is immediately removed from the pan. Otherwise, the bottom of the pot will not dry out, the roots will rot. You can not put a pot of dracaena on wet expanded clay. To check the condition of the root system, the plant is carefully removed from the pot. Healthy roots will be light. Regular spraying will help the flower. it is possible to add cyclone or epin to water for spraying once a week.

Dracaena dry the tips of the leaves, if the room is low humidity. To do this, frequent spraying of the flower is carried out, a humidifier is placed next to it. During the heating season, do not place the plant next to heating appliances.

Dracaena does not grow, new leaves grow deformed, stems are thinned and extended. Reason: the plant lacks sunlight. Perhaps the flower is in the back of the room where the light does not penetrate, or the daylight hours are shortened due to the onset of autumn-winter. Experts recommend placing dracaena near windows on the south or southeast side of the house, but with mandatory shading from midday heat. To diffuse direct sunlight on the window, just hang a transparent curtain. In autumn and winter, it is recommended to illuminate the dracaena with an artificial light lamp (fluorescent or special phytolamp). In total, the duration of daylight hours for the successful development of leaflets should be 12-14 hours.

With the onset of autumn-winter (from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dracaena dormancy period, upon the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, reduce the temperature of the plant (up to +17 ... + 18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and feeding are not carried out. During the resting period, the dracaena slows its growth, and therefore, in conditions of insufficient illumination, it does not drive out new, deformed leaves, its branches do not thin out.

Dracaena is considered a very unpretentious indoor plant. She does not need special care. But in order for the flower to please the eye as long as possible with its splendor and beauty, respond in time to any changes in its appearance. What are the drooped leaves of dracaena talking about?

We will analyze what causes this problem and what needs to be done to solve it.

There may be several reasons:

improper watering;
not suitable in size pot;
nutrient deficiency;
lack of moisture;
drafts and broken temperature;
the plant was frozen.

Watering

The soil should be moist, not moist. The plant is watered with settled water at room temperature, when the earthen lump dries by about 2 cm. The irrigation regimen is 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in the pot, pour expanded clay or coarse-grained sand on its bottom with a layer of 3-4 cm, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from decay. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.

In the hot summer period, the flower needs to be sprayed. To wash off the dust and refresh it, we recommend once a month to put the plant in the shower, covering the ground with cellophane. After bathing the leaf growth point, blot with a napkin.

Close pot

The second reason that the leaves are constantly lowered down may be an improperly sized flower pot. If it is small, then plant nutrition is difficult. Roots need space. Check the tightness of their fit to the walls of the pot. If necessary, transplant a flower.

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

Lower leaflets may fall down due to insufficient nutrients. In a tight pot with a very developed root system, the earth quickly becomes poorer, the upper crown grows due to the lower foliage. During the period of active growth from April to September 1-2 times a month, feed the roots with pre-selected fertilizers. When watering, you can use liquid fertilizers according to the instructions.

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.

A flower loves moist air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the pot on a pallet with water so that the bottom of the pot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.

Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. Evergreen palm up to 35 years old is considered to be young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

Recently, my dracaena began to lower its leaves and, frankly, I panicked. This has never been observed for her, although she is not a very long partner with me, so I decided that I need to deal with this problem myself, and then help others who encounter similar difficulties.

It turned out that there are many reasons why dracaena leaves fall, and they can all be of a very different nature. For example, one of the possible options why the dracaena began to manifest itself so unhealthy may be moisture. Humid air, an unfavorable amount of watering, the placement of other plants, moss nearby - all this can affect the life of dracaena.

A decrease in air humidity also affects this plant. As it turned out, often dracaena leaves are lowered if it is located in close proximity to batteries or other devices that drain the air. An acceptable percentage of moisture in the room where the dracaena lives is 20%, so you need to slightly moisten the air if the dracaena is more yellow and yellow, or, conversely, reduce the amount of moisture if the dracaena blackens, marks out and also leaves the leaves down.

Drafts plus humidity - another enemy dracaena. It can not be placed in intermediate rooms, in corridors, near windows, where a draft is constantly walking. Firstly, the drafts immediately make the dracaena hurt, no matter in what condition it is, just like what happens to a person when he has a cold. They just need to be eliminated or the dracaena moved to another place to neutralize this problem.

Using the wrong fertilizers their insufficient, excessive quantity is the next point that affects the fact that dracaena lowered leaves. What to do in this case? Deal with the amount of fertilizer that you have applied. An insufficient amount requires one more, control, top dressing, excessive - will affect somewhat worse and there will be more difficulties. You will have to transplant the plant, changing the soil mixture, using a completely new pot at the same time, then you will have to restore the health of the dracaena from the basic stage, maybe even update it with pruning so that it starts to recover more intensively and cope with a smaller volume of crown than it would have to if it were former condition.

Using the wrong fertilizer affects the dracaena much worse than you might expect - it is like drinking an alcoholic drink instead of life-giving water when you are strictly forbidden. Instant effect: dracaena begins to wither before our eyes, leaves fall, the earth in the pot starts to react quite strangely, and the old, cheerful and beautiful dracaena perishes on your hands. In this case, my advice is always one, especially for beginning gardeners: always learn the rules for caring for dracaena. Pay attention to the fertilizer item, check what soil composition you purchased or made on your own at home - what is missing in it, and what elements are too much, and only then choose the appropriate fertilizer, but in no case take it at random or for your reasoning - in the case of feeding dracaena, there can be no improvisation.

Dracaena lowers the leaves, all sleek some. How to raise them?)

If everything is all right with the roots, arrange a hot shower for the dracaena! So that the hand would tolerate the temperature of the water, the water should not be warm, nor boiling water, but hot enough. Cover the ground, wrap the pot with a bag, so as not to pour and redeem the foliage, within a minute, you can slightly less.

maybe she is standing in a too sunny place, maybe there is not enough water for her (then you need to spray on the leaves). and the most likely option is to transfer it to a larger pot ..

In mine it happens when I forget to water or the sun falls on the leaves.

And still need to be fed liquid fertilizer for palm trees.

Watering should be done on time and fertilizer should be applied at least once every 2 weeks.

It stands in the sun, maybe I also had this and the leaves turned yellow, put it in the shade and now, it feels great.

Try changing the location, if she likes it, she picks up the leaves within 5 minutes. Still, she can lower them from heavy watering. So do not try to spray better.

indoor-plants-tips.ru

Why did dracaena drop leaves?

Dracaena their leaves leaves seldom. If this happened, it means they did not take good care of the plant, or for a long time they were not at home.

It should be noted that dracaena very sensitive to drafts. If put on a draft, then not only the leaves will lower.

Also, you can not put a flower in bright direct sunlight.

Unnecessary plant transfusion.

Moderate watering will save the dracaena from root decay.

More often the plant must be sprayed. She likes this dracaena, and the leaves will stand like ears in a hare in the cold.

The land in which the dracaena is transplanted or planted should not be heavy. It should be well filled with oxygen. It is possible, and it is necessary to make drainage on 1/3 of the subboil.

The soil often needs to be loosened.

Dracaena will live longer.

Dracaena, although an unpretentious houseplant, but still to be beautiful and lush (the leaves looked up), you need to properly care for it. The first signs that the dracaena lacks care are dropping leaves, the leaves turn yellow and fall off too often.

Dracaena does not like to be watered too often. The earthen lump should dry before the next watering. Young plants need to be replanted every year and at the same time increase the size of the pot by 1-2 fingers so that the roots are not crowded.

Perhaps the cause of sunken leaves is a lack of nutrients. It is necessary to feed the plant at least 1 time per month (or 1 time in 2 weeks). I use vermicompost liquid for feeding.

Dracaena also loves the presence of oxygen at the roots. Therefore, you need to periodically loosen the soil on the surface.

In the summer, spraying is beneficial, but only this should be done in the evening, when the sun is not so strong (if you say your plant is on the balcony).

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Dracaena - home care

Dracaena is a very popular houseplant with a large species and varietal variety. There are species that grow only in the wild, there are species that can survive only in greenhouse conditions, and there are indoor options that are unpretentious and do not require special attention. In general, the most common indoor dracaena personal care requires the most minimal.

Sometimes people subject to superstitions may wonder whether it is possible to keep a dracaena at home, to look for signs related to its room contents. Usually the harm of dracen is contrived and is nothing more than a prejudice. There are no restrictions on its content, except for the most obvious ones - the presence of allergies in any household. In all other respects, this flower will only benefit.

Dracaena is a flower with longevity. Her lifespan when grown indoors can be either five or fifteen years, and depends on the quality of care. How to care for dracaena at home so that she feels well and lives as long as possible? Follow these simple guidelines.

Lighting

Dracaena is a fairly photophilous plant, so you can place it on the eastern and western windowsills. The south side is also acceptable, but try to protect the plant from direct sunlight. In the midst of summer afternoon, it is better to clean it at partial shade. If the opportunity allows, provide the plant with diffused light - this will be the most ideal option.

If the lighting is insufficient, the leaves of the dracaena will begin to fade. A deep shadow will have a very detrimental effect: the leaves will quickly fade and die.

If the lighting is artificial, then this is also suitable for the plant, it is quite capable of growing and developing quite well.

Temperature

The plant prefers moderate temperature in the summer and cooler in the winter, but does not tolerate cold. Choose a warm place for him in the fresh air in summer - a balcony facing east or west is perfect. Remember the danger of direct sunlight. In the spring and summer, the optimum temperature is 20-25 degrees. In winter, Dracaena is suitable for a temperature regime of 12-15 degrees, but not lower, otherwise the plant will freeze and die quickly. Also, dracaena should be protected from drafts and sudden changes in temperature.

Watering and humidity

The plant is quite hygroscopic, so watering should be plentiful, but systematic. It is always better to slightly dry the plant than pour and rot it.

The intensity of irrigation depends on the location of the flower, the volume of the pot, soil composition and season. In summer, watering of dracene should be provided at least a couple of times a week, while daily spraying with water at a temperature a couple of degrees higher than room temperature.

In winter, when the air temperature drops to 12-15 degrees, watering should be reduced to once a week. Dracaena “falls asleep” during this period. An exception is when it is located close to a radiator. In this case, it is not necessary to reduce watering, nor the number of sprayings, since watering a dracaena at high air temperature should often be plentiful.

Regardless of the time of the year, water should not be allowed to stagnate in a pot - the plant does not tolerate such an attitude. But you should not let the soil dry out much even in winter. As soon as the surface layer of soil dries up by three or better, even two centimeters (no more), then it is time to water the flower. Before watering, loosen the surface soil layer, this will improve its air permeability.

Spray the leaves both on the inside and the outside, but always make sure that water does not accumulate, does not stagnate at the junction of the leaf with the stem - this can cause decay. Periodically, you can wipe dracaena with a damp cloth, from time to time arrange a full-fledged warm shower, which will wash all the dust and dirt accumulated on the leaves, and also refresh the plant.

It is better to use filtered water for irrigation, but if this is not possible, then the tap water is defended for at least twelve hours, for better purification it is also worth boiling.

During the period of intensive growth (that is, from the beginning of April to the beginning of September), dracaena is fed with fertilizers. They do this using special mineral top dressings; their frequency is usually indicated in the instructions for use. This is usually every couple of weeks. Fertilizers must be used specialized, complex, which are sold in flower shops and are intended for indoor plants. Variegated varieties are best fed with special fertilizers designed specifically for variegated plants.

Timely transplantation is another guarantee of the longevity of your room dracaena. Since this plant has a strongly growing root system, it quickly becomes crowded in a pot. The plant just brought home from the store also always needs to be moved to a new pot, but this is recommended not immediately, but a month after purchase.

It is possible to roughly calculate whether a dracaena needs a transplant according to the following parameters: for example, if a plant is about half a meter tall, then it needs a pot of at least 20 cm in diameter. By comparing this proportion, you determine whether it is time for the plant to move to a new container. You can also proceed from approximate data that the transplant should be done every two or three years - it is during this time that the roots manage to grow well. But it is better to proceed not from generalized data, but to consider each case and each variety separately, since the dracaena must be transplanted on time, not allowing excessive root growth.

“Moving” is better to start in the spring, during the period of the most intensive growth, so the plant will take root better. When transplanting, try not to damage the root system of the plant. Prepare the drainage system in advance: pour, for example, expanded clay or pebbles on the bottom of the pot. The drainage system means a lot to dracaena, since its root system is superficial.

An ideal transplant scheme, with good care and rapid growth, implies an annual transplant into a pot that will be slightly larger than the old one. You cannot take a pot for dracaena “for growth”; there is a risk that this will lead to the death of the plant. But it is not worth transplanting a sufficiently old dracaena so often, in which case it will be enough just to periodically replace the surface layer of the soil with fresh soil containing a lot of nutrients.

You can buy ready-made soil for dracaena, or you can mix it yourself. Usually, turf and leafy soil with peat, sand and humus are mixed in equal parts.

This procedure has rather a decorative background, since it is not required to cut the dracaena for its own benefit. Trimming the stem stimulates the development of lateral buds and starts the branching process. This is especially true for such a species as dracaena edged: as it grows, the lower, older leaves die off, over time, all the foliage concentrates on the top. The remaining bare trunk doesn’t look very beautiful, which is why cut the dracaena to obtain side shoots.

By the way, in addition to the decorative function, pruning a dracaena indoor flower is its reproduction using cuttings. The mother plant will branch, and the new top-dracaena or stalk will give life to a new full-fledged flower.

The best time for pruning is the same as for transplanting, spring or early summer. The plant should already be old enough, at least thirty centimeters in height. The cut should be five centimeters below the tallest and youngest leaves.

When trimming, use a well-sharpened knife, charcoal or activated carbon; you can also stock up with Zircon. Cut the stem, sprinkle the place of cut with charcoal, and then treat with “Zircon”. Cropped cuttings can be used for propagation, namely, rooting in water.

Dracaena Care: Species Differences

Indoor flower Dracaena species and varieties can be very different. In general, care for indoor dracaenas does not differ much depending on their species and variety. But there are a few points that a grower should know.

Dracaena marginata (it is also fringed dracaena) is the most common and most unpretentious species of all domestic dracaena. Caring for her is no different from what was described above.
The Godzef dracaens and Dragon, unlike all other varieties, calmly carry dry air.
Fragrant dracaena, or fragrance, tolerates cold well. At a temperature of only +10, it can even bloom, although it does this very rarely in room conditions, despite the temperature regime created for it. She is also able to be quiet in the summer in the fresh air. For the rest of the dracaena, it is preferable to still be kept in the room and not to leave its limits.
Dracaena bent, or reflex, is the most capricious and demanding variety. It is usually found only in greenhouses, because it requires constant maintenance of a certain temperature, humidity and lighting.
Dracaena sander, that famous lucky bamboo, is unpretentious so that it can grow even just in the water. It does not require planting in the ground, but it is advisable to add mineral fertilizers to the water, since without them leaves will turn yellow at the dracaena. In this case, exclusively distilled water should be used, in extreme cases filtered. Using tap water can also lead to yellowing of the foliage.

You can read more about Dracaena by reading the article

Diseases and Pests

Like all indoor plants, dracaena has its own problem and vulnerabilities, diseases and its pests. The most common ones are discussed below.

Scabies, thrips, spider mites - these are the main pests that affect dracaena.

With thrips on the leaves, bright spots and silver stains appear. In this case, you can treat the leaves with a soap solution, leaving it for a day, and then rinse. If this measure did not help, then it is necessary to carry out the treatment of dracaena with insecticides.

The spider mite infects the leaves, leads to their yellowing, drying and death. A characteristic symptom of this disease is the presence of a web on the plant. In such a case, it is recommended to wipe the dracaena with a soapy solution and arrange a warm shower for it. If the measures taken do not help, it must be sprayed with Fufan or Fitover. The spider mite starts up with increased air dryness, and therefore one of the preventive measures of the disease is its timely hydration and periodic spraying of the plant with water.

If the leaves turn yellow and dry

Not always, when leaves turn yellow on the flower of a dracaena, this is due to the defeat of its pests. Perhaps the reason is insufficient care. Yellowing of the leaves occurs as a result of dry air, with insufficient watering and lack of fertilizer. Drying and curled leaves appear if the plant is too cold.

If dracaena lowered the leaves. The solution to the problem is at what exact moment this happened. Indoor dracaena can lower the leaves immediately after purchase, after transplantation (with soil replacement) and violation of the integrity of the roots, as a result of improper watering.

If the leaves just bought bought dracaena, there is no reason for panic - the plant just goes through acclimatization, gets used to the new conditions of light, temperature and humidity. Almost all dracaenes drop their leaves immediately after they have been brought home from the store.

If the leaves descended immediately after transplanting into a new pot, this is a sign of damage to the root system.

Insufficient air humidity and improperly organized irrigation regimes can also cause drooping leaves. Either the flower was flooded, or, conversely, dried.

The palm of the dracaena Marginata, the lucky bamboo of Sander, the blooming Fragrance - all these varieties of dracaena require some care, and this care has minimal differences depending on the species. Dracaena can be called a very unpretentious houseplant, because it does not require so much attention. Good illumination, sufficient humidity, timely transplantation - these are the requirements that are inherent in almost every indoor plant. So, if you decide to make yourself a dracaena, do not be afraid of the difficulties with her leaving, since there are no difficulties as such.

Dracaena - diseases and treatment with photo

Dracaena is a fairly unpretentious plant for home growing. However, receiving improper care, it loses its decorative appearance. Dracaena lowered the leaves, the tips of the leaves dry on her. What to do in such cases? So, experts consider the main problems and diseases of dracaena, their treatment with a photo.

Why do dracaena dry and yellow tips of leaves? Why did dracaena drop leaves? Reasons, treatment, photo

Typical diseases of dracaena and their effective treatment with an explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.

Why do dracaena dry tips of leaves? Reasons: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime is violated, heavy soil.

Dracaena is a photophilous flower, and therefore its tips of the leaves very often turn yellow due to a lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown indoors, the ends of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination with an energy-saving lamp up to 12 hours. The flower must be placed at the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows do not fit the flower.

With the onset of autumn-winter (from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dracaena dormancy period, upon the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, reduce the temperature of the plant (up to +17. +18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and feeding are not carried out. During the resting period, the dracaena slows its growth, and therefore, in conditions of insufficient illumination, it does not drive out new, deformed leaves, its branches do not thin out.

Why does dracaena turn yellow and what to do?

Most types of room dracaena are very unpretentious in care: they do not need to be watered or sprayed every day, there is no need to put in bright sunlight and maintain a constant temperature level in the room. Spending just a few minutes a week on caring for a plant, you can get a very beautiful plant that will delight you and your loved ones with your look.

However, even with proper and regular care, the flower may begin to turn yellow, dry and lose leaves. Before fighting the investigation, it is necessary to determine the cause of the deterioration of its condition.

Why do dracaena leaves turn yellow:

Plant Age: the life of a single sheet does not exceed 1.5-2 years. After that, it begins to gradually turn yellow, dry and eventually falls off. This, first of all, concerns the lower leaves of the plant, since they are the most mature and their life time is gradually coming to an end. Natural death of the lower leaves usually proceeds rather slowly.
What to do: so that the plant does not lose its decorative effect, the ends of the dying leaves are cut to a healthy tissue. Even the third and the smallest part of the cut sheet will still work on the flower, so you do not need to delete the entire sheet at once.

Insufficient humidity. In some species of dracaena (Marginates, for example), the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry if there is insufficient humidity in the room.
What to do: dealing with it is easy and simple! The leaves will no longer turn yellow and dry if they are regularly sprayed with water or increase the humidity in the room using a humidifier.

Overflow, excessive watering. Yellowing dracaena leaves may be the first symptom that your flower begins to die due to excess moisture in the pot. Another characteristic sign that the flower is overfilled is that the trunk becomes soft to the touch.
What to do: if you water the flower often enough and do not let the earthen coma dry out, then you need to take urgent measures to save the plant. The flower must be removed from the pot, dried roots, cut off those on which there is rot and transplanted into new soil.

Lack of moisture. If you have not watered your dracaena for a long time, then it may begin to die from a lack of moisture and the first symptoms of this will be yellowing and wilting of the leaves.
What to do: to avoid this, it is necessary to observe the regime of watering the plant: water it only when the earthen lump in the pot dries out completely, but do not delay it with watering.

Direct sunlight. As already mentioned several times in other articles, all types of dracaena do not like strong sunlight and direct sunlight. It is very easy to determine that the plant turns yellow precisely because of strong lighting: in this case, the upper leaves, which are exposed to the sun's rays, become dimmer and burn out. In addition, excessive heating of the sheet (especially in the summer) leads to the fact that the sheet may overheat and dry out.
What to do: rearrange the flower pot so that direct sunlight does not fall on it.

Draft and low temperature. The optimum room temperature for the flower is 18-25 degrees, lowering the temperature below 16 degrees can be detrimental to dracaena. As well as cold drafts: they most often cause a deterioration in the health and appearance of the plant in the cold season.
What to do: if the pot is standing on the window or somewhere in the aisle, make sure that there is no draft and the temperature on the windowsill is not 18 degrees. Remember that even plastic windows can be blown out in strong winds. It is especially important to monitor this in the cold season, when cold air from the street can freeze the plant.

Diseases and pests: if you constantly care for a flower, observe all the conditions for caring for it, but the leaves still begin to turn yellow, then a possible cause of this may be some kind of disease or pest.
What to do: try to treat the plant with a special drug (if you don’t know which one to use, go to the flower shop, describe the symptoms of the disease, and the sellers will tell you which drug is best used). Even once, sometimes it can be enough to make your plant healthy again.

Dracaena leaves turn yellow. Care. Transfer*

# 1 Nastya

# 2 Natali

I know. that the lower ones should die off every two years, but mine all this happens somehow abruptly: about 6 pieces have already fallen off in the last month, and at least one more is going to (and she has only three tops) Is this normal?

Nastya, two years is the average life span of a dracaena leaf. And "leaf fall" she usually twice a year, in spring and autumn. This is not a gradual process, but rather a sharp one - many leaves turn yellow and dry at once. Moreover, the dates of leaf fall may shift depending on the weather. Mine this spring too late, leaf fall is just ending (usually this happens in April).
Six dead leaves on three trunks - this, believe me, is very small. The older the dracaena, the more leaves will fly from it. And you shouldn’t be afraid of it. Although I sometimes feel uneasy, I begin to twitch - do I fill it? 🙂
If the roots do not rot, then there is no reason for concern.

# 3 sem

# 4 Lena

My drake (like Kanzi) after we got it started having problems with leaflets. The lower leaves dry out the tips (until black), but a week ago I noticed light yellow spots on the same leaves.

Light yellow spots can also appear from an overabundance of light (in any case, in marginata). But in principle - yes, it seems that she was frozen (yukiyas are more frost-resistant). The medicine is epin, or analogues.

# 5 sem

# 6 Lena

And with leaves what to do then?

Do not trim - they themselves will disappear. She’s been ill now, is getting rid of herself and will go on growing. It's good that spring is in the yard.

# 7 GalGa

The lower leaves dry out the tips (until black), but a week ago I noticed light yellow spots on the same leaves.

i won’t say anything about yellow spots, but I'm sure I'm black from the fact that I froze. Recently, she brought the same dracaena from Natasha and did not save it. I carefully trimmed all the black ends with scissors, leaving a border of no more than 1 mm. The lower leaves of 2 pcs had to be completely removed. Now the bush on a small leg turned out. What is there to do. If you do not want to apply with a bush, you can overroot when it dawns. I have just one of the tops, reassigned by Natasha, from her old dracaena. The plant hurt for about 2 weeks after moving. Then the neoplasm of the spots stopped. Now new leaves, which were not visible, have grown by half a centimeter.

# 8 Natali

# 9 standby_md

# 10 Xu

on them like that. um .. like specks (2-3 mm in diameter) faded if you look at the light from the bottom of the sheet. If you look at them from the outside of the leaf, they are like tubercles. The leaf itself is dark green, but these tubercles are more faded. What is this? Is it a false scab? Or should it be for dracen?

I don’t know if dracenes have such things
You start digging into a book about illnesses - it blows your head
Found: spots - convex, first pale green (then reddish-brown) - signs of poor lighting with excessive watering
or! watering with cold water, sunburn.
Maybe while being transported (or in the store) the conditions were inappropriate?
Infectious diseases and pests with almost the same symptoms.
IMHO, you just need to watch these spots - whether they will increase, whether they appear on new leaflets. You can think of anything.

# 11 Lena

Girls, and I, too, bought myself a drake.

# 12 sem

# 13 standby_md

Transplant, definitely! In peat, probably? They torment them all in peat. Roots - there are, but I don’t know what they suddenly decide to grow from. There should definitely not be any bulges! I do not know hto / what it is, but. A lot of leaves hurt?

The roots of her already stuck from the earth stick out somewhere about 5 cm + small, very thin - also above the ground. Earth - it looks like peat. So how do I transplant her? Rinse the earth completely off the roots or is it enough to top it up? I read that they do not tolerate a transplant.
Spots are not on all the leaves, but only on some. I specially donated one sheet to see what it was. I fingered it with my fingernail, and there simply a plate of the sheet came off, as if hollow inside. In short, I do not know what it is. I will watch the spots. But every fireman I have already processed it with agravertine.

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The most problematic types of dracaena are Marginata and Bamboo of Happiness, but other species of this plant are susceptible to various diseases. The causes of malaise dracaena can be very different.

Moisture

The first reason is rightly considered low humidity in the room. A flower of this species is considered to be a southern plant adapted for a tropical climate, and the humidity in the air for it should be at least 60-70%. In apartments, humidity is usually lower, especially in winter, hot batteries and heaters dry and heat it, humidity usually drops to 20%, and this is bad for plants. Therefore, gardeners are advised to additionally moisten the air, regularly spray the room in which the plants are located, you can also buy a special humidifier or just put a vessel with water near the batteries, the water will evaporate and increase humidity.

However, there are other reasons for such ailments of dracaena. Bad or improper watering can also lead a flower to a bad state. Remember that this flower should be watered only when the earth in its pot becomes dry. However, do not abuse it, water dracaena about once a week, no more, and no less.

Draft

Strange as it may seem, the third reason for the poor condition of the flower is a simple draft in your room. It can be especially dangerous in winter or late autumn, so you should not keep plants on the window. Dracaena can really get sick from the effects of the cold, in fact, catch a cold.

In order to prevent such unpleasant consequences, just follow the basic rules for caring for dracaena, and it will always delight your eye. Keep it in a bright, but diffused light, maintain the correct temperature, monitor the humidity in the house, do not water the earth in a pot.

Nutrition

If, with all the efforts, your dracaena still looks lethargic and unviable, try to analyze your departure. Perhaps the reason for the flower’s malaise lies in the fact that it lacks vitamins. Consult with experienced gardeners, try various fertilizers, fertilizing for indoor plants.

Sluggish leaves and slow growth are a sign that the flower is closely in the pot, so carefully transplant it into a spacious pot. It is advisable to do this in early spring, and use soilless mixtures as soil.

He will lower the sheets of dracaena and after transplantation, it will hurt for at least a week, if after this period the former elasticity and brightness did not return, you need to use a growth stimulator.