The dracaena dropped leaves what to do. My dracaena lowered leaves, what should I do? Why does dracaena turn yellow and what to do

Dracaena is a spectacular evergreen. It can be found both in apartments and in office premises. Amateur gardeners and designers, she is appreciated for its attractiveness and unpretentiousness. However, despite the undemanding and lack of whims, dracaena suffers from unintentional errors in care, attacks of pathogenic fungi, bacteria, viruses and harmful insects. This negatively affects her presentability. Therefore, you need to know what symptoms are characteristic of a particular disease or pest, and how to deal with them.

How to create an optimal microclimate in dracaena

Dracaena is quite unpretentious, and there is nothing complicated in creating an optimal microclimate for her at home. But the requirements of the plant should still be listened to, trying to create an atmosphere as close as possible to the one to which it is used in nature.

Dracaena - a popular (not least because of its unpretentiousness) houseplant

Table: Suitable conditions for growing dracaena

Factor	Recommendations
Location	Nearby (1–2 m) from a window facing east or west. Putting close to the south window is not recommended to avoid sunburn. In summer, if the dimensions allow, you can move the container to fresh air. Dracaena loves him, but does not tolerate cold drafts.
Lighting	Diffused light or light partial shade. Species with variegated leaves are more demanding on lighting. All dracaena can exist in fully artificial light if daylight hours last at least 12 hours.
Temperature	In spring and summer - moderately warm (20–25ºС). Dracaena does not tolerate heat well. In winter it is slightly lowered - to 17–19ºС. The lower limit is 15ºС. Exceptions are fragrant dracaena, Hooker, Dragon (they suffer a short-term decrease to 10ºС). All species react negatively to sudden changes in temperature. A difference of 10 ° C or more can lead to the death of the plant.
Air humidity	Normally exists with a standard air humidity of 40-50% (especially dracones of Dragon and Godsphere are undemanding to it), but with gratitude responds to any measures to increase it. The only thing you should not do is pour water into the sump. In winter, working radiators dry the air very much, therefore, it is recommended to spray the surrounding air with warm water once every 2-3 days. In the summer, in the heat, you can spray the plant itself, but so that the drops do not fall into sockets, or arrange a shower by covering the soil with polyethylene. Be sure to wipe the leaves with a wet cloth or sponge at least once a week.

Choose a place near the window to the dracaena, it is very difficult to put it on the windowsill because of the dimensions

In addition to the optimal microclimate, a great influence on how the plant feels is provided by timely top dressing and the correct watering regimen.

In summer, you need to allow the soil in the pot to dry about 4-5 cm deep. This can be determined by sticking a wooden stick in the pot. One procedure in 2-3 days is enough. In winter, intervals are increased to 5–7 days. In wet soil, when cool, rot quickly develops. Broad-leaved dracaena need to be watered more often - they have a larger evaporation area. An obvious signal is drooping, toned leaves. And do not forget to loosen the soil after each procedure.

It will also be useful material about the conditions of keeping Dracaena Sander:

As for top dressing, there are special fertilizers for dracaena. The tree is watered with a nutrient solution every 20-30 days, after about half an hour it is well moistened with soil. If a universal tool for indoor plants is used, pay attention to the composition. Excess phosphorus and nitrogen can lead to poor leaf appearance. And dracaena categorically does not tolerate fluoride.

Video: keeping and caring for a flower at home

Diseases and pests typical for dracaena and their prevention

Dracaena, which is properly looked after, is quite resistant to damage by various pathogenic fungi, viruses and bacteria. Most often, this kind of plant problem is the result of unintentional host mistakes. An invasion of pests, even a massive one, is also unlikely to lead to its death, but it will cause a lot of trouble to the grower.

The most dangerous for it are all kinds of rot, as well as bacterial and viral diseases, which cannot be cured with modern means. In this case, the plant needs to be destroyed as quickly as possible, no matter how sorry it is. Otherwise, you may lose the entire collection.

Most often, to avoid problems with dracaena, competent prevention is enough:

quarantine for newly acquired plants for 25-30 days;
regular inspections of the entire collection (ideally through a magnifying glass) and immediate isolation of “suspicious” specimens;
free, without crowding, placement of pots;
frequent airing of the room and maintaining high humidity;
placing indoor and cut flowers as far apart as possible, especially if it is roses or chrysanthemums;
mandatory sterilization before using pots, substrate, any tools;
treatment of all "wounds" inflicted on dracaena in;
implementation of recommendations for plant care, especially those related to irrigation and fertilizing;
maintaining cleanliness - regular dusting from leaves and other authorized water procedures.

Diagnose a problem

The plant gives the grower unambiguous signals. Deterioration of his appearance is a clear sign of health problems. It is important to correctly interpret these signs, and know what to do in each case.

Table: Symptoms and Possible Causes

External manifestations	Possible reasons
External manifestations	Mistakes in leaving	Disease	Pest
Yellowing and fading leaves.	Their life span is about two years. Otherwise, excessive irrigation
Turning pale, fading leaves, deforming, thinning trunks.	Deficit of light.
Falling green leaves.	Unsuitable room temperature (both high and too low), constant cold drafts.
Drying, curled and falling leaves.	Too scarce watering.
Dry brown leaf tips.	Low humidity in the room.
Dry tips and small areas of dead tissue on the leaves.	Excess fluoride in the soil - the use of unsuitable fertilizers or irrigation with hard not settled water.
Leaves that lose color saturation and yellowish or almost discolored spots on them.	Burn from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. It is almost inevitable if the plant has been sprayed before. Drops of water focus the rays no worse than lenses.
Yellowish-white spots on the leaves, dry edges.	Low temperature in the room or its sudden changes.
A discolored “watery” border around the edge of the sheet.	Excess fertilizer in the soil (too frequent fertilizing).
Blushing leaves.	Unsuitable too heavy soil with a predominance of peat.
Fine white crystals on the back of the sheet.	A natural phenomenon provoked by a single plentiful watering in combination with high humidity.
Slow growth or its complete absence.	Unsuitable soil, lack of top dressing for a long time or overly tight pot.
A flour-like coating on the leaves.
Browning soft-touch barrel.
Brownish spots, gradually pulled by a gray "pile".
Dark "watery" spots, softening tissue.
Yellowing leaves, covered with dark brown spots.
Reddish-yellow, gradually browning spots on the leaves.
Brown spots with bright green border on the leaves.
Small beige spots with a white dot in the center.
Elongated beige spots with a pale red border.
Blurry brown spots with yellow-green border.
Dark "watery" tips of leaves, "sores" on the trunk.
Brownish spots and stripes cast in bronze.
Yellow spots on leaves, braided by petioles.
Silver “scratches” and small black dots on the leaves.
Brown "plaques" on the leaves, reddish-yellow tissue around them.
Small lumps of whitish substance in the axils of the leaves and in the ground.
Many small yellow-green or black-brown insects on the underside of leaves and sticky drops on them.

What are the mistakes in leaving: examples in the photo

Dracaena, which has leaf tips dried, suffers from too low humidity or sunburn. Dracaena leaves can be dropped for several reasons, including natural ones. So most often it looks like dracaena before dropping leaves Dracaena can very easily get burned if sprayed leave the plant in direct sunlight Browning drying leaves of dracaena mean a long neglect of the plant's need for moisture The yellowing of the leaves of dracaena responds to overflow

Diseases and how to cope with them

Of the fungal diseases for dracaena, the most dangerous are all types of rot, which develop very quickly when improperly irrigated. If at the same time the room temperature is still below normal, this is almost inevitable.

Table: Typical Dracaena Diseases

Disease	Symptoms	Treatment and prevention
Small rounded pale brown spots on the trunk and leaves with a whitish dot in the middle, quickly changing color to black-gray. Gradually, the tissues in these places die.	Wipe the leaves and trunk with infusion of wood ash or colloidal sulfur. Treat the plant and soil with a solution of Topaz, Oxychoma, Kuprozan. Repeat three times at 10-day intervals. During this time, do not water with plain water, but with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. For prevention once a month, treat the flower and soil with a 0.1% solution of Fundazolum, Topsin-M.
Elongated beige spots with a reddish border on the leaves. Gradually they are tightened with a layer of greenish-gray plaque.
Phyllosticosis (brown spotting)	Blurry spots of irregular shape beige-brown with lime border. Then in the middle small black “grains” are formed. At risk are adults and especially old dracaena.	Cut off all infected tissue. Remove specially affected leaves completely. Sprinkle the slices with activated carbon powder, chalk, cinnamon, treat with iodine or brilliant green. Spray the flower with a solution of Skor, Topaz, HOMA. Repeat three times (treatment once a week). During this time, add any biostimulant (Zircon, Epin, potassium humate) to the water for irrigation (2-3 ml per liter).
Dark brown “watery” tips of leaves, brown spots on them, small round “ulcers” on the trunk and petioles. Healthy tissues are separated from infected by a wide yellow “oily” streak.	There are no effective treatment measures. The bacteriosis is provoked by constant dampness in the pot, heat in the room, and alkaline soil unsuitable for dracaena.
Spotted wilting (bronze)	Leaves are almost completely covered with stripes and spots of irregular shape. Under artificial lighting, they are brownish, cast in the sun with bronze. Dracaena growth almost stops, new leaves are small and deformed.	With the help of modern means, it is impossible to get rid of the virus. Often suffer from spotted wilting plants that do not feed. A deficiency of potassium and phosphorus is harmful to dracen.
Yellowness spreading through the leaves from bottom to top. Along the edge is a "watery" border. The top of the trunk wilts. He himself is thinning, changing color to brick. In especially severe cases, dracaena is covered with “weeping” brown spots.	Wash the flower under a warm shower, remove the affected leaves. Cut the slices. Spray the plant and spill the soil with a solution of Fundazole, Vectra, Benomila. Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 3-5 days. If there is no effect, use "heavy artillery" - Quadris, Bravo, Rayek. For prevention, add Fitosporin-M to water for irrigation. In the soil when transplanting add Gumistar, Trikhovit.
Root (black) rot	Brown roots and base of the trunk, mold on the soil and an unpleasant putrefactive odor coming from it.	Remove the dracaena from the pot, thoroughly rinse off the substrate from the roots. Cut all dark and slimy to the touch, capturing 3-5 cm of tissue that seems healthy. Soak the roots for 20-30 minutes in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 0.5% bordeaux fluid. Sprinkle slices with sifted wood ash, colloidal sulfur. Transplant the plant into a sterilized pot using new soil. For 3-4 months, water with a 0.5% solution of Alirin-B, Baikal-EM, Previkur.
Bacterial (wet) rot	Dark "watery" spots on the leaves and trunk. Tissues in these places soften to a semi-liquid state.
Pale brown spots on the leaves, gradually dragging on a layer of grayish “pile” with multiple small black blotches.	Cut off all the leaves infected with the fungus. Treat the "wounds." Wipe them and pour the soil with a solution of Abig-Peak, Kuprozan, Topaz. For a month, water the dracaena with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (0.25 g / l).
Brown rot (rhizoctonia)	Dracaena stops growing. Leaves turn yellow, discolor, then become covered with black-brown spots.	Stop watering immediately. After 3-5 days for 10-12 hours, soak the roots in a solution of Bactofit, Agata-25K, Maxim. Let them dry well. If there is no effect, change the pot and the soil.
Small brownish spots with a bright green border on the leaves.	Cut off all affected leaves. Provide the plant with optimal or near-keeping conditions. Follow the recommendations for caring for dracaena.
Leaves, as if powdered with flour. Gradually, this plaque condenses and turns brown.	Wipe off the leaves, washing them with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Powder them with powdered activated carbon or colloidal sulfur. Pour Dracaena with a solution of any fungicide twice with an interval of 10-12 days.

Photo gallery: how a plant affected by pathogenic fungi and bacteria looks like

Powdery mildew seems to be a harmless coating that is easy to erase, but it is by no means. Brown spotting is a rather rare disease. Dracaena, affected by brown rot, practically stops growing. Gray rot is easy to recognize, but not easy to cure. Tissues affected by bacterial rot turn into in semi-liquid mass Root rot is very difficult to recognize on time, and the disease can be treated only in the early stages of development. Fusarium plants in the garden often suffer, but indoor plants are not protected from infection. The plant that suffers from spotted wilting can only be thrown away. It is still impossible to cure bacteriosis Phylostyctosis most often affects adults and old dracaena. Greenish-gray plaque that appears as heterosporosis develops, contains fungal spores. Tissues affected by alternariosis gradually die, holes remain on the leaves, holes remain on the leaves

Video: Dracaena Disease Treatment

Dracaena attacking pests

Most pests, even having bred in a multitude, will not kill dracaena. But this does not mean that they do not need to be fought. The plant did not “bring” any exotic insects from its historical homeland. You have to deal with the most common insects and ticks that feed on its juice.

Table: Common Pests

Pest	Symptoms	Control and Prevention Measures
Rounded "plaques" of different shades of brown on the wrong side of the sheet. Gradually they “swell”, the tissues around them acquire an unnatural yellow-red color. In severe cases, the soil turns black.	Grease visible shell pests with machine oil, acetic acid, and pure alcohol. After a few hours, the guards can be removed. Wipe the leaves with soap suds, rinse with water. Treat the plant with Actara, Permethrin, Fufanon. If necessary, repeat another 1-2 times with an interval of 5-7 days.
Thin, almost transparent filaments entwining petioles. On the underside of the leaf are brown dots and blurry pale or yellowish spots around them.	Wipe the leaves with alcohol, vodka or any alcohol tincture. After 15–20 minutes, use a damp sponge. Spray generously and pour dracaena, for 2-3 days, if possible, tightly close with polyethylene. To enhance the effect, put the same container with chopped onions, garlic, turpentine. If there is no result, use acaricides - Neoron, Agravertin, Sunmayt, Apollo. A minimum of 3-4 treatments with different drugs will be required. The interval between them is 5-12 days. For prevention, spray the plant with a decoction of cyclamen tubers weekly. Or irradiate the leaves with a quartz lamp for 2-3 minutes on both sides.
Discolored leaves, small black dots and silver-beige thin “scratches” visible on the inside.	Apply soap foam or whipped flea shampoo to the leaves, leave it under polyethylene for 2-3 days. Or spray it with an oil emulsion (35-40 ml of any vegetable oil per liter of water). Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 5-7 days. If there is no result, use Fitoverm, Spintor, Actellik (2-3 times with an interval of a week).
Lumps of dirty cotton-like plaque in the axils of the leaves and at the base of the trunk. Leaves quickly turn yellow and dry.	Spray Dracaena with a soap-alcohol solution. After 2-3 hours, wash the leaves with clean water. At the same time, remove the visible “lumps” with a wooden stick. Treat the flower and soil with infusion of tobacco chips, dry mustard, red pepper. Or apply on a leaf any preparation with Neem tree oil. If there is no effect, use Spark-Bio, Calypso, Mospilan (2-3 times with an interval of 5-10 days).
Large colonies of small insects clinging to the underside of leaves (especially young ones) and the top of the trunk. Then a sticky transparent coating appears.	Wipe off the insects with soapy foam. Cut off specially affected leaves. Arrange dracene souls. 3-4 times a day spray the plant with tinctures of orange peels, onion husks, needles, and any sharply smelling herbs. If there is no effect, treat Dracaena Biotlin, Admiral, Confidor-Maxi. Repeat every 5–7 days until aphids disappear completely.

Photo gallery: how dracaena-infecting pests look

Aphids are distinguished by a rare “omnivorous”, dracaena is also part of its interests. If you do not pay attention to the mealybug, the plant will very soon be covered with a continuous carpet of stirring “fluff.” Small black dots on the leaves are nothing other than thrips. Spider mite is not an insect , therefore, to combat it, not general insecticides are used, but special preparations - acaricides. Durable carapace of the scale shield - reliable protection against most folk remedies.

Video: common pests of indoor plants and their control

Plant resuscitation

Most often, the dracaena requires urgent resuscitation, its owner is to blame. Most painfully, it reacts to improper watering - “drought” or “swamp” in the pot.

In the first case, cut off all the dry leaves to living tissue without touching the growth point at the top of the dracaena. Every 2-3 days, spray with a solution of any biostimulant. Rearrange as close to the southwest or southeast window. Water according to the instructions. If the roots are not affected, after 2-3 months the dracaena will give new leaves. When the growth point has dried up, you will have to cut it off and hope that the side kidneys “wake up”. But the chances of it are not so many.

In a waterlogged substrate, the development of rot is almost inevitable. Drazen needs to be transplanted as soon as possible, regardless of the time of year. But this procedure does not guarantee success; it will be effective only at an early stage of the development of the disease. In the process, be sure to cut off all the roots affected by the fungus, do not forget to sterilize a new pot and soil. At first, be very careful with watering, but spray the dracaena daily. Select the capacity according to the size of the root system (plus a maximum of 2-3 cm).

What to do with a broken palm dracaena

Dracaena is a fairly massive plant, so the aboveground part can simply outweigh the pot. Also, the “fractures” she often received are the result of the intense activity of children and domestic animals. In this case, do not be upset. If everything is done correctly, instead of one plant you will get two.

Broken dracaena - not a reason to arrange a tragedy

The easiest way is when the trunk broke, but did not break at all. “Tires” are placed on it, as if on an arm or leg, and the skin is fixed so that it covers the “wound” if possible. You can wrap strips of sphagnum moss or coconut fiber on top.

Do not forget to "seal" the cut

Otherwise, the remaining part of the plant in the pot:

Saw off the barrel just below the point of damage. It is advisable to do this according to the “scars” remaining from the fallen leaves.
Disinfect the section with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% m Bordeaux fluid.
Pour with liquid wax, paraffin, cover with garden var. If nothing is at hand, apply 2-3 coats of oil paint.
Put the plant in partial shade. Water sparingly. When growth buds form, return to normal care.

Also, material on methods of propagation of dracaena will be useful:

The side kidneys on the dracaena "wake up" for a long time, be patient

Broken tip:

Cut at an angle of approximately 45º. Try to do this as smoothly as possible, without “flaking” and chipping. Let it dry for 2-3 hours.
Tear off the interfering leaves. Put in a container with a biostimulator prepared according to the instructions. Succinic acid and activated carbon can be used (per tablet for every 200 ml). An alternative is rooting in wet perlite, vermiculite, sand. The slice will need to be sprinkled with any powdery root stimulator.
Change the water every 3-4 days, regularly moisten the substrate. Provide bottom heating, daylight hours of at least 12 hours and a temperature of approximately 25ºC.
Be patient. The rooting process can last 3-4 months or even six months. When the first new leaf appears, transplant the plant into soil suitable for adult dracaenas.

Most often, the broken tip of the dracaena is rooted in water

Video: rooting dracaena cuttings

Dracaena, like any houseplant, is not immune from attacks of diseases and pests. However, it is quite resistant to them, and a tree that is properly looked after rarely suffers. Nevertheless, individual errors in care, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can trigger a deterioration in the appearance of dracaena. If nothing is done, the plant may even die. Therefore, it is important to be able to recognize what caused these or other symptoms, and to know what to do to deal with the problem.

Typical diseases of dracaena and their effective treatment with an explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.

Why do dracaena drop leaves? Causes may be the following: the plant goes through a period of acclimatization after purchase, a transplant was carried out with soil replacement, which violated the integrity of the root system, and the irrigation mode was incorrect.

Only a purchased plant must undergo a period of acclimatization under the new conditions. Dracaena is no exception. The light level in the new room, humidity and air temperature - all this can affect the well-being of the flower. No need to worry if dracaena is only purchased and it has lowered leaves. For prevention, you need to inspect the plant carefully. If there are no pests on it, the root system is in order, the trunk does not rot - there is no need to take drastic measures. Experts recommend not replanting the flower within 1 month after purchase. After this period, transplant by transshipment and strictly observe the rules for caring for dracaena. As practice shows, all dracaena drop leaves after the purchase. This is a normal occurrence. In a healthy flower, only the crown, that is, young leaves, will look up.

Dracaena dropped leaves immediately after transplantation. This indicates a violation of the root system of the flower, namely, very thin roots that form a spider web at the bottom of the pot. They are involved in plant nutrition and provide the plant with water. It is not recommended to transplant dracaena in a complete replacement of the soil. She is more likely to transship in a larger pot. Thus, the root system will not be injured.

However, if the transplant has already been carried out and the dracaena has lowered the leaves, while its lower leaves can turn yellow intensively, the following steps need to be performed: spray the flower with a cyclone (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water) and place it under the greenhouse or a spacious cap. Leaves should not touch the walls of the greenhouse. At the same time, watering is significantly reduced. Before the next watering, the ground in the pot should completely dry (you can 1 time in 2-3 weeks). On the contrary, it is necessary to spray the flower very often with ordinary water in order to maintain high humidity under the greenhouse. The number of sprayings depends on the room temperature. The colder the less often. Cycron can be used only 1 time per week. At the first watering, the cyclone must be added to the water for irrigation. This stimulates the growth of the root system. After a transplant with a violation of the root system, dracaena lacks moisture. At the same time, intensive watering will lead to decay of the root system. The plant will replenish the lack of moisture through the crown. That is why in a greenhouse they maintain high humidity.

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Reason: Wrong watering mode. In the first case, the amount of moisture is simply not enough for the plant to maintain normal leaf turgor. In the second - there is too much moisture, which led to the decay of the root system. Through damaged roots, the plant also does not receive enough moisture. Increasing the number of irrigations will not solve the problem.

If dracaena lowered leaves due to lack of moisture, what should I do? It is necessary to place the flower under the greenhouse and conduct regular spraying. It is impossible to sharply increase the number of irrigation, as this will harm the roots. Keep the plant under the greenhouse for 3-5 days. Watering the flower should be plentiful, but only after the earth coma is completely dry. Water from the pan must be removed.

Dracaena gets an excess of moisture. As a result, the root system does not cope with an excess of fluid and begins to rot. Damaged roots no longer absorb moisture from the ground, and therefore dracaena lowers the leaves. What to do? First of all, normalize watering. Next, you need to carefully, without violating the integrity of the root system, remove the dracaena from the pot by the barrel. Inspect the roots. If the root system is light yellow or white, but not brown, it is healthy. The plant is returned back to the pot and reduce watering. Watering should be plentiful, but only after the soil has completely dried in a pot.

If the dracaena lowered the leaves and its roots are soaked, flabby and have an unhealthy shade, this indicates rotting. Damaged roots are removed. The plant is transplanted into a new, special, slightly moist soil. Dracaena is placed under a greenhouse. Watering is minimized, and spraying, on the contrary, is speeded up. Can be added to spray water for cyclone. The plant is removed from the greenhouse when it begins to drive out new leaves.

Why do dracaena dry the tips of leaves? Reasons: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime is violated, heavy soil.

Dracaena is a light-loving flower, and therefore its tips of the leaves very often turn yellow due to a lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown under indoor conditions, the tips of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination with an energy-saving lamp up to 12 hours. The flower must be placed at the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows do not fit the flower.

You noticed that the dracaena looks bad, the tips of its leaves are drying. What to do in such cases? It is necessary to pay attention to the watering mode. Perhaps the plant is waterlogged. As a result, its root system rots, leaves do not get enough moisture through diseased roots, and therefore their tips dry. Dracaena is watered only after the soil has completely dried in a pot. Watering in this case is carried out abundant, so that the water out into the pan through the drainage holes. Water is immediately removed from the pan. Otherwise, the bottom of the pot will not dry out, the roots will rot. You can not put a pot of dracaena on wet expanded clay. To check the condition of the root system, the plant is carefully removed from the pot. Healthy roots will be light. Regular spraying will help the flower. You can add cyclone or epin to the water for spraying once a week.

Dracaena dry the tips of the leaves, if the room is low humidity. For this, frequent spraying of the flower is carried out, a humidifier is placed next to it. During the heating season, do not place the plant next to heating appliances.

Dracaena does not grow, new leaves grow deformed, stems are thinned and extended. Reason: the plant lacks sunlight. Perhaps the flower is in the back of the room where the light does not penetrate, or the length of daylight is shortened due to the onset of autumn-winter. Experts recommend placing dracaena near windows on the south or southeast side of the house, but with mandatory shading from midday heat. To diffuse direct sunlight on the window, just hang a transparent curtain. In autumn and winter, it is recommended that the dracaena be illuminated with an artificial light lamp (fluorescent or a special phytolamp). In total, the duration of daylight hours for the successful development of leaflets should be 12-14 hours.

With the onset of autumn-winter (from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dracaena dormancy period, upon the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, reduce the temperature of the plant (up to +17 ... + 18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and feeding are not carried out. During the resting period, the dracaena slows its growth, and therefore, in conditions of insufficient illumination, it does not expel new, deformed leaves, its branches do not thin out.

The beginning flower grower does not have enough experience and intuition for growing indoor plants, he acquires it most often by trial and error. However, it is possible to avoid trouble by using some basic rules when choosing a plant and first acquaintance with it.

When buying dracaena or another plant, find out its full Latin name. Acquiring a new unknown plant, many are not interested in its agricultural technology, features, do not know the correct botanical name. Knowing the correct botanical name, you can determine the specific features of a particular species.
Excessive shading or bright light can harm your dracaena. First of all, you should choose the right place for the plant. To do this, find out how the plant relates to sunlight. In addition, which is very important, a plant that tolerates sunlight well must be accustomed to it gradually. This is due to the peculiarities of plant maintenance prior to purchase - in stores they rarely observe the light regime necessary for a particular species.
For most species of plant dracaena, drafts are fatal. When choosing a plant, consider this fact.
Overfilling or excessive dryness can be extremely harmful to the plant. Watering is of great importance. You always need to know what the needs of the plant you bought are. In addition, watering should be carried out carefully, negligence leads to unpleasant consequences. For a number of species, a necessary condition for a healthy existence in the apartment is a constant daily spraying.
Be careful when feeding the plant. It is very important to understand how much the introduction of nutrients is necessary for the plant. Mistakes in feeding can cause the plant to die or die.
Consider the individual needs of the plant to the soil mixture. When transplanting, the main mistake is the incorrectly selected soil mixture. Sometimes a transplant is started unnecessarily, at the wrong time. Often too large dishes are taken, which leads to acidification of the soil. Most plants require good drainage, which some do not pay attention to. Plants brought from Holland often do not undergo proper control by the appropriate structures, as a result of which they can carry various hazardous pests on themselves or in the substrate. Therefore, it is advisable to transplant the purchased plant with the replacement of the substrate and a careful examination of the roots.
Need to crop? Crop! Lovers - gardeners often pity their plant, are afraid to cut it. Pruning is necessary for a number of crops; if it is not carried out, the plant grows, ceases to grow and bloom.

Symptoms of care mistakes and possible causes.

The upper leaves retain elasticity, but turn yellow: It is caused, as a rule, by a high content of calcium in the soil - in those plants that cannot tolerate lime, or by the hardness of water for irrigation.

The leaves lose their luster and look lifeless: The probable cause is too much light; another cause may be a red spider mite. Even healthy green leaves may look faded if not washed.

Leaf discoloration (chlorosis): The leaves discolor and turn yellow, the veins remain green. This usually happens with a lack of iron and magnesium. Both elements are needed to keep the leaf green. Irrigation with water containing a lot of calcium leads to such a deficiency: calcium binds iron in the soil. You can fix this by starting to use iron chelates or brown algal extract and pour softened water.

Leaves discolor until they become transparent: This is due to a lack of nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary, in particular, for the formation of green leaves. To restore the green color of the leaves, top dressing with liquid fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is necessary. More long-term support may be horny flour, which must be gently mixed into the upper layer of the earth.

Drooping leaves: Common causes are either drying out the soil (due to insufficient watering) or waterlogging of the soil (due to poor drainage or too frequent watering). Other causes may be an excess of light (especially if the leaves wilt regularly in the middle of the day), dry air, too high air temperature, a cramped pot or pests.

Leaves curl and fall: The edges of the leaves curl and sometimes become dry. Twisting the leaves of plants is a measure of self-defense, because this reduces the surface of the leaf and less water evaporates from it. This happens when the plant is in a too warm place or receives little water. It is necessary to water the plant until the soil is completely saturated, or dip it in water and hold it. Choose a cooler place for him.

Leaves fall off suddenly: Rapid leaf fall without a previous long period of wilting or discoloration usually indicates a shock suffered by the plant. It can be caused by a significant temperature difference (both lowering and increasing), a sharp increase in the intensity of illumination in the daytime or a strong cold draft. Sudden falling of leaves, especially in tree plants, can also be caused by drying out of the soil at the roots.

Leaves turn yellow and fall: The lower leaves of an adult plant naturally turn yellow over time and then fall. When this happens simultaneously with several leaves, the probable cause is waterlogging of the soil, lack of nitrogen, too dark place or cold drafts. First of all, you need to drastically reduce watering or completely replace the earth and less often water it. Regularly feed with appropriate fertilizers. Move the plant to a brighter place.

The lower leaves dry and fall: Three possible causes are a lack of light, too high air temperature and insufficient watering. The plant should be rearranged in a brighter place. Soak an earthball completely with water, immersing the pot for several hours in water. Move from a warm place to cooler conditions.

Leaves on new plants fall: For newly transplanted, just purchased or transferred from one room to another plants, it is natural to lose one or two lower leaves. The shock from a change of scenery can be mitigated if the plant is transplanted only in a slightly larger pot than the previous one, sheltered when moving home from the store and transferred from a poorly lit place to a bright light with an intermediate stay for several days in partial shade.

Dots or spots on leaves: If the dots or spots are dry and brown, then the most likely cause is a lack of water. If the affected areas are soft, dark brown light - this is most likely due to waterlogging of the soil. If the dots or spots are white or yellowish, the lesion is caused by the use of cold water when watering, a sharp drop in temperature, water getting on the leaves, aerosol damage, or illness / pests. If the spots are reddish, silver-white or brownish - the plant was suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. If the affected areas become wet and look like a blister, or dry in the form of dents, the cause is the disease. Some pests can also cause leaf spotting.

Brown tips or leaf edges: The most likely cause is the drying of the leaf tips to dry air. Another possible cause is physical damage, when the tips of the leaves are often touched or pressed against the glass or wall. If the edges of the leaves are yellow or brown, this can be caused by several reasons: waterlogging of the soil, insufficient watering, lack of light, too much light, too low air temperature, an excess of minerals, dry air or drafts. Other symptoms will help determine the true cause.

Small pale leaves and elongated stems: This happens in winter and early spring, after the plant was kept in low light at too high a temperature and excessively heavy watering. If possible, the ugly part of the plant is removed. If such symptoms appear during the growth period, then the reasons may be a lack of minerals or too poor lighting.

Leaves and stems rot: This is caused by a disease that occurs under poor conditions. Often the cause of the disease is waterlogging of the soil in winter or water getting on the leaves, especially if it remains overnight.

Torn edges and holes on the leaves: Most often appear when physically damaged by pets or people (sometimes even a simple touch on an unfolded sheet can damage it) or when attacked by pests.

Variegated leaves turn solid green: This is simply due to a lack of light. Remove all processes with uniformly colored leaves (if possible) and move the pot with the plant closer to the window.

A plant does not grow slowly or at all: In winter, this is normal for all plants, so do not force it to grow. In summer, the most likely cause of growth retardation is a lack of minerals, waterlogging of the soil, or insufficient lighting. If these reasons are excluded, then, perhaps, the plant has a small pot.

The plant does not bloom: Several reasons can lead to the fact that an adult plant does not bloom at the right time. The most likely causes associated with lighting are a lack of light or an unsuitable length of daylight for a plant. Other causes may be an overabundance of minerals, dry air, thrips, or transplantation (some plants bloom only in a tight pot).

Buds fall: The reasons why leaves fall can also cause buds or flowers to fall. This is most often caused by dry air, insufficient watering, lack of light, moving the pot with the plant to another place and pest damage.

Flowers quickly fade: As a rule, this is a result of insufficient watering, dry air, lack of light or too high air temperature.

Green plaque on a ceramic pot: A sure sign of problems associated with irrigation - occurs when waterlogged soil or poor drainage.

White peel on a ceramic pot: There are two likely reasons - use too hard water for irrigation or an excess of minerals.

Among indoor plants, dracaena, which is sometimes called the "false palm", is very popular among gardeners.

Attracts a deep, rich color of its leaves, splendor of the crown.

However, if the plant begins "leaf fall", then everything is for real, without "false modesty" - from its former beauty in a matter of days there may be one bare stem.

To prevent this from happening (although the reasons can sometimes be objective, and they cannot be avoided), you need to carefully monitor the condition of the green pet and, having felt something was wrong, take measures.

The main problems in dracaena, as in most cultures, whose homeland is the tropics, are associated with acclimatization. In an ordinary city apartment the plant often lacks heat and humidity. Both that, and another dracaena need to be given in addition, and to do it competently, without going to extremes.

If you find that the dracaena has a soft trunk and leaves fall, the bark has become wrinkled, so you went too far with watering.

If the leaves begin to curl or turn into a tube (this may mean that the plant died) - therefore, you could not provide the green pet with a comfortable temperature, you did not save him from sudden transitions from one microclimate to another.

Problems to the flower are also created by diseases and pests, which must be learned to recognize in a timely manner.

Of all the varieties, the threat of “baldness” most often arises in Marginata, in other varieties this problem is less pronounced. The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall may be as follows:

natural aging (the leaves of this culture live from 2 to 3 years);
water scarcity;
cold air, drafts.

To help a plant, it’s important to figure out which of the reasons your flower is ruining.

If it is aging, then this is an objective and unregulated process. Fortunately, nature envisioned that at the same time all the leaves of the dracaena will not leave - those of them whose maturity has approached will begin to turn yellow, then curl, blacken and fall off. After some time, new, healthy leaves will appear in the vacated places.

In case of water shortage, massive leaf fall does not occur either.

The difference is that the aged leaves dry out completely, and the fallen leaves, due to the scarcity of watering, still partially retain their vitality.

If the gardener overdoses with watering, the plant begins lose green leaves - this is due to the fact that the roots rotted in waterlogged soil and the plant dies.

Temperature discomfort (especially cold, draft) is expressed in the loss of green foliage by the plant.

If yellowness on the leaves appears like gray hair in a person, for natural reasons, it may not capture the whole sheet, but its tips. In this case, specialists recommend trimming by removing only the yellowed part and leaving healthy. This will preserve the decorativeness of the culture.

Often the problem arises due to the fact that the plant does not have enough sun. Most varieties have enough soft, diffused light, and even a short winter day does not have a negative effect on them. However, in some cases, dracaena cannot do without backlighting and informs the owner about the yellowness of its leaves.

A similar reaction occurs due to excessive irrigation. And if the dracaena has fallen leaves and yellowed, this may be due to a lack of nutrients in the soil. It is especially dangerous to keep a flower on a starvation diet during its active growth - from April to the end of August.

CAUTION:if water regularly remains in the axils of the leaves after watering and spraying, this can cause a color change from green to yellow.

This trouble can happen even with young foliage, if the flower grows in the same pot, without replacing the soil, 3-4 years.

Salts accumulate in it, because of which the plant is not able to fully absorb nutrients, even if the owner regularly feeds his pet.

Suction roots, the main conductor of nutrients in the flower’s body, die from salinity.

Due to malnutrition, the tips of old leaves also dry out. In addition, the problem may lie in the structure of the soil - if it is clayey, heavy, poorly transmitting water.

ATTENTION:the tips of the leaves sometimes begin to dry due to a supersaturation of the soil with fluorine. This element is part of fertilizers for tropical crops, which should be used exactly according to the instructions so as not to harm the flower.

Never reassure yourself with the phrase that “there are spots in the sun”: spots on dracaena leaves pose a threat to flower health and most often appear due to insufficient care for the plant, and their color helps determine the essence of the problem. This is what they are talking about:

If the trunk of the dracaena wrinkled, the leaves began to fall, the probability of mistakes that the owner made, most likely by inexperience, was high. The main thing is to have time to fix them in time.

Among the most common mistakes:

wrong, too generous watering (in fact, the soil in the pot between the waterings should dry out, control its condition by sticking a thin wooden stick into the ground);
high air dryness (remove the flower away from heating appliances);
insufficient lighting (the plant needs to be provided with additional highlighting);
exposure to cold air (frozen leaves will help “wash” with warm water);
lack of nutrients (buy fertilizer in the form of a stick in a flower shop and stick it in the soil - your pet will regularly receive top dressings in the volume necessary for him).

ATTENTION:if the leaves turn yellow after an unsuccessful transplant, help the flower recover by spraying the soil with Epin.

Specialists (in order to prevent various diseases) recommend add potassium and phosphorus to fertilizers. Unfortunately, this is not enough to avoid diseases completely.

Dracaena diseases can be:

Pests affecting dracaena can be in the soil or get on it from neighboring, already infected plants. Signs of ill health are cobwebs, specks, sticky plaque. Among the pests:

This video talks about another pest of dracaena and how to deal with it:

How to reanimate a dracaena, if the trunk is fragile, the bark wrinkles, and the leaves begin to rot? Required "Surgical intervention" in the form of cuttings: cut off the top of the dracaena and either immediately root it in the ground, or put it in a container of water so that the roots appear. This usually takes 2 months.

If the poor condition of the dracaena is associated with dry air, bring the pet back to life a warm shower will help. So that the water does not flood the roots, the pot should be placed in a plastic bag and tighten its edges around the trunk.

If the stem (and subsequently a full-fledged plant) has been standing in the water for too long, its trunk may turn yellow. This is because the aquatic environment contributes to the activation of bacteria, and the changed color of the trunk is evidence that the plant may die. You can avoid this development by urgently replacing the dracaena in a pot of earth.

A plant affected by cold air will be saved by several sprinkles of warm water and placing the pot in a draft-free place. In cases where the temperature has dropped below 15 degrees Celsius, there is a great danger that the roots are affected. If the check shows that it turned out that way and the roots began to decay, they are removed and the dracaena is transplanted into a new pot. In cases when there are practically no healthy roots, the top of the flower is cut off and root.
What to do with a broken dracaena

The broken lignified part of the stem is fairly easy to root. To do this, you need to cut the place of the scrap with a sharp knife (the cut must be horizontal), hold it in the air for a while to dry it, and lower it into a container of water, where an activated carbon tablet is added (it will protect the future plant from decay).

The remaining part of the stem in the pot can also be saved. The fracture site is neatly trimmed and filled with wax. After a short time, shoots will appear on the sides of the stem.

If the broken is not lignified, but a green shoot, it is recommended to root it in moss or in the sand. In order for the roots to form faster, the tip of the shoot is processed in the “Kornevin” preparation, and in the future they will organize artificial heating (the best temperature is 25 degrees).

TIP:if the stalk selected for rooting is very small, it is stuck in the ground and covered with a glass jar, providing a greenhouse effect.

Due to its tropical appearance, dracaena decorates the home interior and is widely used in the design of office premises. The plant is considered unpretentious and resistant to disease. But if you notice problems when growing this "palm", you need to respond urgently. First you need to accurately diagnose the disease, and then immediately proceed to the treatment of the disease.

Optimal home conditions for growing dracaena

Dracaena is a beautiful tropical plant native to Africa, Asia and South America. Externally, the plant looks like a palm tree, but in fact it is not, but belongs to the asparagus family.

In nature, you can find multi-meter specimens with lignified trunks, long wide leaves of green color or with stripes of different shades.

In total, there are about 150 species of plants. The most popular are Dragon, Fragrant, Massangeana, Marginata (bordered), Deremskaya, Bent, Sandera (lucky bamboo), etc.

Varieties of dracaena - photo gallery

Dracaena Dracaena has variegated leaf color Dracaena Dragon has as sharp as teeth of a legendary animal leaves Dracaena Bent leaves are bent upwards It is believed that Dracaena Sandera, or lucky bamboo, attracts luck Dracaena Massangeana has a strong tree trunk
Dracaena Marginata more than other species resembles a palm tree

Knowing the features of the growing conditions, it is easy to avoid the disease dracaena:

Dracaena diseases can be fungal, bacterial or viral.

We diagnose infectious diseases - table

Symptom	Care Error	Disease
Round stains of brown hues appear on the stem and leaves, later fungal spores form in their place and the lesion site turns black.	Fungal spores got into the soil, excess moisture	Alternariosis
The tips of the leaves dry out, spots with black dots appear inside.	Excessive watering, cold room, heavy soil	Phyllosticosis
Oblong spots are beige, yellow with a red or brown edging, a green coating is possible, the leaves quickly turn yellow and dry.	Wrong watering regime, infection in the ground	Heterosporosis
Spots of various shapes, brown stripes, deformation of young shoots.	Weakened immunity due to improper conditions	Spotted wilting
Yellow stripes on the leaves and moist brown plaque (rot) at the tips, ulcers on the petioles and stems.	Heavy soil, waterlogged soil, high alkali content in the substrate	Bacteriosis

Most dracenes are susceptible to fungal diseases. The most common of these are alternariosis and phylosticosis. As a rule, the disease occurs with high air humidity and excess moisture in the soil. Also, the cause of the disease is spores of fungi that could be in the soil or were introduced from the outside. For example, unsterilized garden equipment that has previously come into contact with an infected plant can become a carrier of an infectious disease.

If dracaena is transplanted into heavy garden soil, it is often and plentifully watered with running unsteady water, with a high degree of probability this will lead to a bacterial disease. Of all the species of dracaena, Dracaena is most susceptible to bacteriosis.. This beauty is especially popular with amateur gardeners for the colorful leaves and the difference in their colors. However, these leaves are also often chosen by bacteria and fungus.

Professional gardeners note that dracaena is quite resistant to viral diseases. But still, rarely does a flower strike a spotted wilt. This virus can infect a plant in which immunity is already weakened. For example, immunity is reduced if the flower suffers for a long time from improper care or is damaged by insect pests. With a viral infection, dracaena stops growing and begins to fade.

Dracaena diseases - photo gallery

With phyllosticosis, the tips of the leaves dry. With alternariosis, the leaves may become brown spots. Spotted wilting leads to the fact that the plant can rot.

Dracaena insects - table

Symptoms	Pest	Treatment
On the inner side of the leaves are dark (red) spots entangled in cobwebs; when the tick multiplies, white sticky plaque and white larvae appear on the leaves, trunk (similar to white sticks).	Wash sheets with hot soapy water (50 ° C), treat with acaricide. Repeat the procedure after 7 days
The sheet is covered with a silver film, black dots, similar to scratches, form inside the sheet; a sticky coating appears, the sheet bends and dries.	Thrips	Spray three times with an insecticide (Decis) with an interval of 1-2 weeks
Withered dry foliage, the inside is covered with sticky mucus, beige and brown swollen spots inside the leaf plate.	Shield	Wash leaves with soapy water and spray with an insecticide (Fitoverm or Intavir)
White plaque, similar to the accumulation of cotton shreds or white sticks, is located in large groups on the leaves and sinuses, the leaves dry and deform, covered with sticky colorless drops.	Mealybug	Remove insects with soapy water, treat twice with an insecticide with an interval of 2 weeks
Leaves turn yellow, curl, dry out, sticky coating, there are many white dots on the underside of the leaf and stems (aphid larvae can also be yellow, green or black, depending on the species).	Aphid	Spray with insecticides up to 3 times with an interval of 2 weeks

Pests of indoor plants - photo gallery

The leaf is covered with a silver film with black dots inside. The mealybug looks outwardly like a cluster of cotton swabs. Aphids look like white specks. The scabbard forms beige, brown swollen spots. The spider mite weaves a web

We solve problems

The health problems of dracaena can be completely different. Let's try to figure out what needs to be done in each case. Let's start with the leaves.

If dark spots appear on the leaves, perhaps the plant suffers from excessive watering and stagnation of water in the pan. It is necessary to check the condition of the roots of the plant.

If the roots of the plant are completely rotted, the trunk of the dracaena becomes soft. This phenomenon may occur as a result of frequent and abundant watering of the soil. The plant is unlikely to be able to cure. Recommended temperature for healthy plant growth is from 16 to 25 ° C.

Rotting trunk of dracaena may be the result of frequent watering

If the trunk froze and became soft

Staying for a long time in drafts, on the street or in a room where the air temperature is below 18 degrees, dracaena freezes.

If the top is frozen, you need to cut it to a healthy trunk

At the same time, the trunk of the plant can still remain alive (firm and hard to the touch), and the leaves become limp and lowered. They can’t be saved. If the top of the dracaena dropped, you need to rejuvenate the trunk:

Cut off the crown with a clean knife until the beginning of the living (dense) tissue. Discard the top, and sprinkle the place of the cut on the trunk with crushed coal.
Place the pot with the plant in a sunny place in a warm room (temperature 22–25 ° C). Eliminate the possibility of drafts.
Pour the flower with a complex fertilizer diluted half as much as indicated in the instructions.
Every week, spray the trunk and soil with a growth stimulator for plants.
Observe the correct watering regime and wait for the dracaena to recover and give side kidneys.

If the tip is broken

What to do if the crown of the dracaena is broken and a healthy long trunk remains:

If the trunk is too long or crooked

There are times when the dracaena is rapidly growing: the trunk grows in height quickly, but in itself is thin and not strong enough. This can happen if the dracaena is completely satisfied with the conditions of her detention, but she is standing in a poorly lit place. For example, the trunk quickly becomes thin and long in dracaena Ocaylennaya and Deremskaya.

No need to rush to say goodbye to your favorite plant, because one can be done in one of these situations. Dracaena can be performed anti-aging pruning and divide the trunk into several parts:

How to treat Dracaena from lesions - details

To combat fungal diseases, the flower must be carefully treated with a fungicide. It is also advisable to transplant the plant and replace the infected soil with sterilized soil.

The use of fungicides in fungal diseases

For treatment, it is recommended to use a solution of Fundazole in the proportions of 10 grams per 500 ml of water. Spray the infected tree once every 2 weeks, repeat the procedure three times. An alternative to Fundazole can be the treatment of a sick plant with Topaz or another drug that contains copper. All procedures are carried out strictly according to the instructions and in a well-ventilated area.

Fundazole is used for any fungal infections of plants.

For the prevention of fungal diseases of dracaena, it is necessary to avoid overmoistening of the soil, cool and dark rooms, contact with untreated garden tools.

Viral infections and bacterial diseases of dracaena are currently considered incurable. Unfortunately, a diseased plant must be destroyed so as not to infect other indoor flowers.

Transplantation into sterile soil

With fungal diseases or with the development of root rot from waterlogging or freezing of an earthen coma, the roots begin to rot in the plant, fungal spores multiply in the soil. To get rid of them, dracaena needs to be transplanted into sterile soil.

Procedure:

Pull the flower out of the pot, completely free the root system from contaminated soil under running water.
With a clean knife, cut off rotten roots (they will be soft to the touch) to healthy parts and treat with Fitosporin solution (dilute the paste according to the instructions).
Place the finished substrate for dracaena in a heated oven for 10 minutes; for sterilization, the temperature regime should be set to 200 degrees. Cool.
To restore and build up the root system, choose a smaller pot for the flower (3 cm in diameter and less than the previous height). Add a layer of expanded clay, sterilized soil and plant dracaena in the usual way.

How to use insecticides

Leaves of dracaena are attacked by a scab, a spider mite and other pests, especially if the flower is in a cool room with dry air.

Actellik - one of the most popular insecticides. Aktara has a hazard class 3 (moderately dangerous for humans). Fitoverm is considered the least dangerous drug from pests.

As a rule, treatment with folk remedies helps in the fight against spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, and scabies and thrips are destroyed after treatment with insecticides.

Green soap helps in the care of dracaena

Resuscitation of Dying Dracaena

If the dracaena has been ignored for a long time and already has a dying appearance, it is still worth trying to save it.

If the bottom of the plant has rotted

With frequent and abundant watering, the roots rot in the dracaena, and later the trunk and the top rot. This situation can be called hopeless, the plant can only be thrown away. In rare cases, the leaves and part of the trunk may not have time to suffer, then you need to try to save the crown and root it like an apical stem:

With a sharp sharp knife, cut off the apical shoot with part of the trunk (healthy and strong). The top should have a healthy appearance: the leaves are dense, and the trunk is solid. Make a cut perpendicular to the trunk, sprinkle the place of cut with crushed coal.
Leave the resulting stalk in the air for two hours, so that the cut point is slightly dry.
Place the handle in a transparent glass with settled water at room temperature and add a root stimulant, for example, Kornevin. Dilute half as much as indicated in the instructions.
Put a glass with a handle on a sunny windowsill.
As necessary (if it blooms), change the water in a glass, add.
When roots more than 5 cm appear, plant the dracaena in a small pot, deepening the stem with roots 2 cm into the sterilized soil.

If the top is dry

If the dracaena has not been watered for a long time, for example, during a long vacation, the plant can lose all the leaves from a lack of moisture, and the growth point itself can dry out.

Drying of the growth point is irreversible and requires trimming of dracaena

In this case, there is still a chance to save the plant. For this:

First of all, the dracaena needs to arrange “bath procedures”. In order to wet the earthen lump well and uniformly and revitalize the root system, the flower pot should be placed in a basin for half an hour with standing warm water (water should be at room temperature).
The dried-up top should be cut with a sharp knife and discarded, treat the cut site with activated powdered charcoal and wait for the side (sleeping) kidneys to wake up.
Think about the height at which to trim the trunk so that the plant is aesthetically pleasing.
Spray the flower once a week with a plant growth stimulator, for example, Epin.
Watering should be carried out moderate once a week, while twice a month to introduce complex fertilizers for dracaena.
Put the pot with the plant 2 meters from the solar window so that the scattered rays of the sun fall on the plant.
A month later, dracaena should appear new leaves from the side buds.

When caring for and rehabilitating the plant, observe the following rules: