Why do dracaena drop leaves. What to do if dracaena leaves have fallen? What to do and how to save the plant

Dracaena is a spectacular evergreen. It can be found both in apartments and in office premises. Amateur gardeners and designers, she is appreciated for its attractiveness and unpretentiousness. However, despite the undemanding and lack of whims, dracaena suffers from unintentional errors in care, attacks of pathogenic fungi, bacteria, viruses and harmful insects. This negatively affects her presentability. Therefore, you need to know what symptoms are characteristic of a particular disease or pest, and how to deal with them.

How to create an optimal microclimate in dracaena

Dracaena is quite unpretentious, and there is nothing complicated in creating an optimal microclimate for her at home. But the requirements of the plant should still be listened to, trying to create an atmosphere as close as possible to the one to which it is used in nature.

Dracaena - a popular (not least because of its unpretentiousness) houseplant

Table: Suitable conditions for growing dracaena

Factor	Recommendations
Location	Nearby (1–2 m) from a window facing east or west. Putting close to the south window is not recommended to avoid sunburn. In summer, if the dimensions allow, you can move the container to fresh air. Dracaena loves him, but does not tolerate cold drafts.
Lighting	Diffused light or light partial shade. Species with variegated leaves are more demanding on lighting. All dracaena can exist in fully artificial light if daylight hours last at least 12 hours.
Temperature	In spring and summer - moderately warm (20–25ºС). Dracaena does not tolerate heat well. In winter it is slightly lowered - to 17–19ºС. The lower limit is 15ºС. Exceptions are fragrant dracaena, Hooker, Dragon (they suffer a short-term decrease to 10ºС). All species react negatively to sudden changes in temperature. A difference of 10 ° C or more can lead to the death of the plant.
Air humidity	Normally exists with a standard air humidity of 40-50% (especially dracones of Dragon and Godsphere are undemanding to it), but with gratitude responds to any measures to increase it. The only thing you should not do is pour water into the sump. In winter, working radiators dry the air very much, therefore, it is recommended to spray the surrounding air with warm water once every 2-3 days. In the summer, in the heat, you can spray the plant itself, but so that the drops do not fall into sockets, or arrange a shower by covering the soil with polyethylene. Be sure to wipe the leaves with a wet cloth or sponge at least once a week.

Choose a place near the window to the dracaena, it is very difficult to put it on the windowsill because of the dimensions

In addition to the optimal microclimate, a great influence on how the plant feels is provided by timely top dressing and the correct watering regimen.

In summer, you need to allow the soil in the pot to dry about 4-5 cm deep. This can be determined by sticking a wooden stick in the pot. One procedure in 2-3 days is enough. In winter, intervals are increased to 5–7 days. In wet soil, when cool, rot quickly develops. Broad-leaved dracaena need to be watered more often - they have a larger evaporation area. An obvious signal is drooping, toned leaves. And do not forget to loosen the soil after each procedure.

It will also be useful material about the conditions of keeping Dracaena Sander:

As for top dressing, there are special fertilizers for dracaena. The tree is watered with a nutrient solution every 20-30 days, after about half an hour it is well moistened with soil. If a universal tool for indoor plants is used, pay attention to the composition. Excess phosphorus and nitrogen can lead to poor leaf appearance. And dracaena categorically does not tolerate fluoride.

Video: keeping and caring for a flower at home

Diseases and pests typical for dracaena and their prevention

Dracaena, which is properly looked after, is quite resistant to damage by various pathogenic fungi, viruses and bacteria. Most often, this kind of plant problem is the result of unintentional host mistakes. An invasion of pests, even a massive one, is also unlikely to lead to its death, but it will cause a lot of trouble to the grower.

The most dangerous for it are all kinds of rot, as well as bacterial and viral diseases, which cannot be cured with modern means. In this case, the plant needs to be destroyed as quickly as possible, no matter how sorry it is. Otherwise, you may lose the entire collection.

Most often, to avoid problems with dracaena, competent prevention is enough:

• quarantine for newly acquired plants for 25-30 days;
• regular inspections of the entire collection (ideally through a magnifying glass) and immediate isolation of “suspicious” specimens;
• free, without crowding, placement of pots;
• frequent airing of the room and maintaining high humidity;
• placing indoor and cut flowers as far apart as possible, especially if it is roses or chrysanthemums;
• mandatory sterilization before using pots, substrate, any tools;
• treatment of all "wounds" inflicted on dracaena in;
• implementation of recommendations for plant care, especially those related to irrigation and fertilizing;
• maintaining cleanliness - regular dusting from leaves and other authorized water procedures.

Diagnose a problem

The plant gives the grower unambiguous signals. Deterioration of his appearance is a clear sign of health problems. It is important to correctly interpret these signs, and know what to do in each case.

Table: Symptoms and Possible Causes

External manifestations	Possible reasons
	Mistakes in leaving	Disease	Pest
Yellowing and fading leaves.	Their life span is about two years. Otherwise, excessive irrigation
Turning pale, fading leaves, deforming, thinning trunks.	Deficit of light.
Falling green leaves.	Unsuitable room temperature (both high and too low), constant cold drafts.
Drying, curled and falling leaves.	Too scarce watering.
Dry brown leaf tips.	Low humidity in the room.
Dry tips and small areas of dead tissue on the leaves.	Excess fluoride in the soil - the use of unsuitable fertilizers or irrigation with hard not settled water.
Leaves that lose color saturation and yellowish or almost discolored spots on them.	Burn from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. It is almost inevitable if the plant has been sprayed before. Drops of water focus the rays no worse than lenses.
Yellowish-white spots on the leaves, dry edges.	Low temperature in the room or its sudden changes.
A discolored “watery” border around the edge of the sheet.	Excess fertilizer in the soil (too frequent fertilizing).
Blushing leaves.	Unsuitable too heavy soil with a predominance of peat.
Fine white crystals on the back of the sheet.	A natural phenomenon provoked by a single plentiful watering in combination with high humidity.
Slow growth or its complete absence.	Unsuitable soil, lack of top dressing for a long time or overly tight pot.
A flour-like coating on the leaves.
Browning soft-touch barrel.
Brownish spots, gradually pulled by a gray "pile".
Dark "watery" spots, softening tissue.
Yellowing leaves, covered with dark brown spots.
Reddish-yellow, gradually browning spots on the leaves.
Brown spots with bright green border on the leaves.
Small beige spots with a white dot in the center.
Elongated beige spots with a pale red border.
Blurry brown spots with yellow-green border.
Dark "watery" tips of leaves, "sores" on the trunk.
Brownish spots and stripes cast in bronze.
Yellow spots on leaves, braided by petioles.
Silver “scratches” and small black dots on the leaves.
Brown "plaques" on the leaves, reddish-yellow tissue around them.
Small lumps of whitish substance in the axils of the leaves and in the ground.
Many small yellow-green or black-brown insects on the underside of leaves and sticky drops on them.

What are the mistakes in leaving: examples in the photo

   Dracaena, which has leaf tips dried, suffers from too low humidity or sunburn. Dracaena leaves can be dropped for several reasons, including natural ones. So most often it looks like dracaena before dropping leaves Dracaena can very easily get burned if sprayed leave the plant in direct sunlight Browning drying leaves of dracaena mean a long neglect of the plant's need for moisture The yellowing of the leaves of dracaena responds to overflow

Diseases and how to cope with them

Of the fungal diseases for dracaena, the most dangerous are all types of rot, which develop very quickly when improperly irrigated. If at the same time the room temperature is still below normal, this is almost inevitable.

Table: Typical Dracaena Diseases

Disease	Symptoms	Treatment and prevention
Small rounded pale brown spots on the trunk and leaves with a whitish dot in the middle, quickly changing color to black-gray. Gradually, the tissues in these places die.	Wipe the leaves and trunk with infusion of wood ash or colloidal sulfur. Treat the plant and soil with a solution of Topaz, Oxychoma, Kuprozan. Repeat three times at 10-day intervals. During this time, do not water with plain water, but with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. For prevention once a month, treat the flower and soil with a 0.1% solution of Fundazolum, Topsin-M.
Elongated beige spots with a reddish border on the leaves. Gradually they are tightened with a layer of greenish-gray plaque.
Phyllosticosis (brown spotting)	Blurry spots of irregular shape beige-brown with lime border. Then in the middle small black “grains” are formed. At risk are adults and especially old dracaena.	Cut off all infected tissue. Remove specially affected leaves completely. Sprinkle the slices with activated carbon powder, chalk, cinnamon, treat with iodine or brilliant green. Spray the flower with a solution of Skor, Topaz, HOMA. Repeat three times (treatment once a week). During this time, add any biostimulant (Zircon, Epin, potassium humate) to the water for irrigation (2-3 ml per liter).
Dark brown “watery” tips of leaves, brown spots on them, small round “ulcers” on the trunk and petioles. Healthy tissues are separated from infected by a wide yellow “oily” streak.	There are no effective treatment measures. The bacteriosis is provoked by constant dampness in the pot, heat in the room, and alkaline soil unsuitable for dracaena.
Spotted wilting (bronze)	Leaves are almost completely covered with stripes and spots of irregular shape. Under artificial lighting, they are brownish, cast in the sun with bronze. Dracaena growth almost stops, new leaves are small and deformed.	With the help of modern means, it is impossible to get rid of the virus. Often suffer from spotted wilting plants that do not feed. A deficiency of potassium and phosphorus is harmful to dracen.
Yellowness spreading through the leaves from bottom to top. Along the edge is a "watery" border. The top of the trunk wilts. He himself is thinning, changing color to brick. In especially severe cases, dracaena is covered with “weeping” brown spots.	Wash the flower under a warm shower, remove the affected leaves. Cut the slices. Spray the plant and spill the soil with a solution of Fundazole, Vectra, Benomila. Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 3-5 days. If there is no effect, use "heavy artillery" - Quadris, Bravo, Rayek. For prevention, add Fitosporin-M to water for irrigation. In the soil when transplanting add Gumistar, Trikhovit.
Root (black) rot	Brown roots and base of the trunk, mold on the soil and an unpleasant putrefactive odor coming from it.	Remove the dracaena from the pot, thoroughly rinse off the substrate from the roots. Cut all dark and slimy to the touch, capturing 3-5 cm of tissue that seems healthy. Soak the roots for 20-30 minutes in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 0.5% bordeaux fluid. Sprinkle slices with sifted wood ash, colloidal sulfur. Transplant the plant into a sterilized pot using new soil. For 3-4 months, water with a 0.5% solution of Alirin-B, Baikal-EM, Previkur.
Bacterial (wet) rot	Dark "watery" spots on the leaves and trunk. Tissues in these places soften to a semi-liquid state.
Pale brown spots on the leaves, gradually dragging on a layer of grayish “pile” with multiple small black blotches.	Cut off all the leaves infected with the fungus. Treat the "wounds." Wipe them and pour the soil with a solution of Abig-Peak, Kuprozan, Topaz. For a month, water the dracaena with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (0.25 g / l).
Brown rot (rhizoctonia)	Dracaena stops growing. Leaves turn yellow, discolor, then become covered with black-brown spots.	Stop watering immediately. After 3-5 days for 10-12 hours, soak the roots in a solution of Bactofit, Agata-25K, Maxim. Let them dry well. If there is no effect, change the pot and the soil.
Small brownish spots with a bright green border on the leaves.	Cut off all affected leaves. Provide the plant with optimal or near-keeping conditions. Follow the recommendations for caring for dracaena.
Leaves, as if powdered with flour. Gradually, this plaque condenses and turns brown.	Wipe off the leaves, washing them with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Powder them with powdered activated carbon or colloidal sulfur. Pour Dracaena with a solution of any fungicide twice with an interval of 10-12 days.

Photo gallery: how a plant affected by pathogenic fungi and bacteria looks like

Powdery mildew seems to be a harmless coating that is easy to erase, but it is by no means. Brown spotting is a rather rare disease. Dracaena, affected by brown rot, practically stops growing. Gray rot is easy to recognize, but not easy to cure. Tissues affected by bacterial rot turn into in semi-liquid mass Root rot is very difficult to recognize on time, and the disease can be treated only in the early stages of development. Fusarium plants in the garden often suffer, but indoor plants are not protected from infection. The plant that suffers from spotted wilting can only be thrown away. It is still impossible to cure bacteriosis Phylostyctosis most often affects adults and old dracaena. Greenish-gray plaque that appears as heterosporosis develops, contains fungal spores. Tissues affected by alternariosis gradually die, holes remain on the leaves, holes remain on the leaves

Video: Dracaena Disease Treatment

Dracaena attacking pests

Most pests, even having bred in a multitude, will not kill dracaena. But this does not mean that they do not need to be fought. The plant did not “bring” any exotic insects from its historical homeland. You have to deal with the most common insects and ticks that feed on its juice.

Table: Common Pests

Pest	Symptoms	Control and Prevention Measures
Rounded "plaques" of different shades of brown on the wrong side of the sheet. Gradually they “swell”, the tissues around them acquire an unnatural yellow-red color. In severe cases, the soil turns black.	Grease visible shell pests with machine oil, acetic acid, and pure alcohol. After a few hours, the guards can be removed. Wipe the leaves with soap suds, rinse with water. Treat the plant with Actara, Permethrin, Fufanon. If necessary, repeat another 1-2 times with an interval of 5-7 days.
Thin, almost transparent filaments entwining petioles. On the underside of the leaf are brown dots and blurry pale or yellowish spots around them.	Wipe the leaves with alcohol, vodka or any alcohol tincture. After 15–20 minutes, use a damp sponge. Spray generously and pour dracaena, for 2-3 days, if possible, tightly close with polyethylene. To enhance the effect, put the same container with chopped onions, garlic, turpentine. If there is no result, use acaricides - Neoron, Agravertin, Sunmayt, Apollo. A minimum of 3-4 treatments with different drugs will be required. The interval between them is 5-12 days. For prevention, spray the plant with a decoction of cyclamen tubers weekly. Or irradiate the leaves with a quartz lamp for 2-3 minutes on both sides.
Discolored leaves, small black dots and silver-beige thin “scratches” visible on the inside.	Apply soap foam or whipped flea shampoo to the leaves, leave it under polyethylene for 2-3 days. Or spray it with an oil emulsion (35-40 ml of any vegetable oil per liter of water). Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 5-7 days. If there is no result, use Fitoverm, Spintor, Actellik (2-3 times with an interval of a week).
Lumps of dirty cotton-like plaque in the axils of the leaves and at the base of the trunk. Leaves quickly turn yellow and dry.	Spray Dracaena with a soap-alcohol solution. After 2-3 hours, wash the leaves with clean water. At the same time, remove the visible “lumps” with a wooden stick. Treat the flower and soil with infusion of tobacco chips, dry mustard, red pepper. Or apply on a leaf any preparation with Neem tree oil. If there is no effect, use Spark-Bio, Calypso, Mospilan (2-3 times with an interval of 5-10 days).
Large colonies of small insects clinging to the underside of leaves (especially young ones) and the top of the trunk. Then a sticky transparent coating appears.	Wipe off the insects with soapy foam. Cut off specially affected leaves. Arrange dracene souls. 3-4 times a day spray the plant with tinctures of orange peels, onion husks, needles, and any sharply smelling herbs. If there is no effect, treat Dracaena Biotlin, Admiral, Confidor-Maxi. Repeat every 5–7 days until aphids disappear completely.

Photo gallery: how dracaena-infecting pests look

Aphids are distinguished by a rare “omnivorous”, dracaena is also part of its interests. If you do not pay attention to the mealybug, the plant will very soon be covered with a continuous carpet of stirring “fluff.” Small black dots on the leaves are nothing other than thrips. Spider mite is not an insect , therefore, to combat it, not general insecticides are used, but special preparations - acaricides. Durable carapace of the scale shield - reliable protection against most folk remedies.

Video: common pests of indoor plants and their control

Plant resuscitation

Most often, the dracaena requires urgent resuscitation, its owner is to blame. Most painfully, it reacts to improper watering - “drought” or “swamp” in the pot.

In the first case, cut off all the dry leaves to living tissue without touching the growth point at the top of the dracaena. Every 2-3 days, spray with a solution of any biostimulant. Rearrange as close to the southwest or southeast window. Water according to the instructions. If the roots are not affected, after 2-3 months the dracaena will give new leaves. When the growth point has dried up, you will have to cut it off and hope that the side kidneys “wake up”. But the chances of it are not so many.

In a waterlogged substrate, the development of rot is almost inevitable. Drazen needs to be transplanted as soon as possible, regardless of the time of year. But this procedure does not guarantee success; it will be effective only at an early stage of the development of the disease. In the process, be sure to cut off all the roots affected by the fungus, do not forget to sterilize a new pot and soil. At first, be very careful with watering, but spray the dracaena daily. Select the capacity according to the size of the root system (plus a maximum of 2-3 cm).

What to do with a broken palm dracaena

Dracaena is a fairly massive plant, so the aboveground part can simply outweigh the pot. Also, the “fractures” she often received are the result of the intense activity of children and domestic animals. In this case, do not be upset. If everything is done correctly, instead of one plant you will get two.

Broken dracaena - not a reason to arrange a tragedy

The easiest way is when the trunk broke, but did not break at all. “Tires” are placed on it, as if on an arm or leg, and the skin is fixed so that it covers the “wound” if possible. You can wrap strips of sphagnum moss or coconut fiber on top.

Do not forget to "seal" the cut

Otherwise, the remaining part of the plant in the pot:

1. Saw off the barrel just below the point of damage. It is advisable to do this according to the “scars” remaining from the fallen leaves.
2. Disinfect the section with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% m Bordeaux fluid.
3. Pour with liquid wax, paraffin, cover with garden var. If nothing is at hand, apply 2-3 coats of oil paint.
4. Put the plant in partial shade. Water sparingly. When growth buds form, return to normal care.

Also, material on methods of propagation of dracaena will be useful:

The side kidneys on the dracaena "wake up" for a long time, be patient

Broken tip:

1. Cut at an angle of approximately 45º. Try to do this as smoothly as possible, without “flaking” and chipping. Let it dry for 2-3 hours.
2. Tear off the interfering leaves. Put in a container with a biostimulator prepared according to the instructions. Succinic acid and activated carbon can be used (per tablet for every 200 ml). An alternative is rooting in wet perlite, vermiculite, sand. The slice will need to be sprinkled with any powdery root stimulator.
3. Change the water every 3-4 days, regularly moisten the substrate. Provide bottom heating, daylight hours of at least 12 hours and a temperature of approximately 25ºC.
4. Be patient. The rooting process can last 3-4 months or even six months. When the first new leaf appears, transplant the plant into soil suitable for adult dracaenas.

Most often, the broken tip of the dracaena is rooted in water

Video: rooting dracaena cuttings

Dracaena, like any houseplant, is not immune from attacks of diseases and pests. However, it is quite resistant to them, and a tree that is properly looked after rarely suffers. Nevertheless, individual errors in care, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can trigger a deterioration in the appearance of dracaena. If nothing is done, the plant may even die. Therefore, it is important to be able to recognize what caused these or other symptoms, and to know what to do to deal with the problem.

This plant was loved by us due to its unpretentiousness and elegant beauty. Perhaps, dracaena is one of the few palm trees that are capable of growing indoors without special supervision. Therefore, if you decide to get a room palm, you will have plenty to choose from. After all, variegated varieties of African - for every taste! Dracaena flower is a home photo and care in this material.

Family:  dracenic. Bloom:  depends on the species. Cultivation:  simple.

Dracaena flower - striped dragon

Previously, dracaena and all its species, and it has about 80 of them, belonged to the asparagus family, and only recently found the eponymous "family" of dracaenas. The name comes from the Greek word "dracaina", which means "female dragon." It is not surprising that the people called the plant "dragon tree." And one of the varieties has a symbolic meaning: it is believed that the tree grew on the spot where the dragon’s blood was shed ...

A characteristic feature of dracaena of this species is red resin, which is used as a coloring matter. From time immemorial, dried red juice was served as dragon blood and used for embalming. Dragon dracaena is considered a symbol of the island of Tenerife, locals consider this magnificent tree sacred. The variety is distinguished by its impressive size, sometimes up to 30 m high and unusual shape of the crown. The tree is a long-liver, the oldest was found even before the development of the island, its trunk girth was 15 m., And according to various sources, it was several millennia old.

The dragon tree can be called one of the most useful: all varieties are volatile plants that cleanse the air of harmful fumes. Filter plants.

Do you know ...
The popular bamboo spirals that we see in bouquets and floral arrangements are not bamboo at all, but one of the varieties of dracaena, namely Sander.

The birthplace of these many plants is Africa, some dracaenas feel comfortable in South Asia, the tropics of Central America, Australia and New Guinea. Dragon tree is often confused with cordilina, which is smaller. In landscaping, several of the most decorative species are used. Dracaena home photo and views.

Fragrant Dracaena - African with a powerful trunk and wide leaves, blooming with white and very fragrant flowers. In shape, they are similar to flowers of Sansevier. The dimensions of the plant require a lot of space, it can grow to the ceiling.

d. fragrant
d. fragrant

Another flowering species, Dracaena Godzeff, she surkolosa - this is the most unusual and rare variety. Three varieties are known: Punctulata, Florida Beauty, and Milky Way. This species pleases with flowering on any windows, even oriented to the north side, requires support during growth, reaches a height of 3 m. The flowers are small, white, with a pleasant smell. The leaves are shaped like hoya leaves.

d. Godzeff
d. Godzeff Florida Beauty
d. surkolosa Milky Way and Punctulata

The flower of Dracaena deremensky became the progenitor of many spectacular varieties. These are miniature shrubs with fringed broad leaves, approx. 80 cm. Lemon Laim and White Stripe, Kanzi and White Jewel varieties are very beautiful. As they grow, the lower leaves fall, forming a dense, but short stem.

d. Deremenskaya Kanzi and White Jewel
d. Deremenskaya White Stripe and Lemon Laim

Dracaena bent away is very sweet, until it exceeds 40 cm, then the trunk begins to bend, and when shifted, it twists. Therefore, this species requires careful shaping and multiple cropping. The most beautiful varieties are Song of India and Song of Jamaica. By the way, this is the most capricious of room types.

d. bent Song of India and Song of Jamaica

The most famous fringed dracaena has varieties with bright pink, cream and light green stripes on the leaves: Colorama and Magenta. An evergreen tree grows up to 3 m tall and often forms several tops. The variety with a narrow filamentary border along the edge of the sheet was called Dracaena Marginata.

d. Marginata
d. Bordered by Magenta and Colorama

According to an ancient Aztec legend, the dracaena flower is considered a tree of happiness. So, the warrior, who once fell in love with the daughter of the high priest, was doomed to suffering. His beloved father was ready to give him his daughter as his wife only if leaves grew on a stick stuck in the ground. For five days, the lover desperately watered a lifeless stick, and on the night of the full moon it came to life. Since then, a twig cut off at midnight on the full moon is considered a symbol of eternal love!

Care Rules

These palm trees are the best-bought plants, they can be grown everywhere, they are extremely hardy and do not require custody. Despite the abundance of species, the growing rules for all are approximately the same. The site flowery-blog.ru will tell in more detail.

Temperature and lighting

Dracaena and its species are photophilous, but in different ways. In the direct sun, only fringed, without fear, expose, the rest can get burns. The very best lighting is the morning sun, or bright diffused light. In winter, so that narrow, slightly colored leaves do not grow, the plant needs to be additionally illuminated. An exception is Godzeff's dracaena (except for its variegated species), she prefers bright diffused lighting, but she will calmly suffer a lack of light in winter.

Dragon palm grows well in room conditions, the minimum allowable temperature is 15 degrees with sparse watering, and the most comfortable approx. 25, provided that the room is not stuffy.

Watering and humidity

Regular, and most importantly moderate watering is the key to good growth and development of a room palm. A dragon tree easily tolerates a temporary lack of moisture, but a systematic overflow in a compartment with a lack of light and low temperature is detrimental to the roots. Depending on the size of the pot and temperature, you can water in 7-12 days. 8 important watering rules.

Humidity does not play a special role in the growing process, but spraying will not harm, especially in the hot season. In addition, it is periodically necessary to clean the leaves of dust with a soft cloth. Sheet top dressing.

Fertilizers and fertilizing

During active growth, the dragon tree requires regular feeding. It is carried out 2 times a month with any fertilizer for decorative and deciduous. In summer, you can alternate mineral mixtures with organic top dressing. In winter, if there is growth, you can maintain the plant by fertilizing 1 time in 2 months. If the flower hibernates in low light and humidity conditions, it is better to exclude any fertilizer.

On a note
Flowering occurs from December to April. With artificial pollination at home, round fruits with seeds can be tied.

Reproduction and transplantation

Dracaena transplantation is performed once a year for young specimens and every 3 years for adults. For large palm trees, only the top layer of the substrate in the pot can be changed annually. When choosing a pot, it is important to consider that the root system of the dracaena is voluminous, so the plant needs a spacious pot with good drainage. In this case, it is better to give preference to sustainable ceramics! A good time for a transplant is the end of winter or the beginning of spring.

The substrate should be loose, nutritious and slightly acidic. How to determine the acidity of the soil. For the mixture, they take garden soil, peat, sand and a little leaf or coniferous humus. In the absence of the necessary components, you can confine yourself to garden soil and purchased peat mix, which are combined to achieve the optimal consistency. How to make soil for flowers.

Most bushy varieties initially have a beautiful, low rosette of leaves, but with age, the stalk is gradually exposed and they become “false palms”. Top trimming stimulates branching. Dracaena Marginata (bordered) is also amenable to formation, from the trunks they make “candelabra” with three or five horns, “dead loops” and randomly twisted voluminous bushes. It remains only to maintain a given shape.

For the dracaena flower, propagation is carried out by cuttings in the spring. Most species are easily rooted by apical and stem cuttings in water, or a light mixture of sand and peat (photo above).

Problems in growing?

Dracaena flower care for which is not complicated, little susceptible to disease and rarely suffers from pests. But weakens and loses attractiveness in inappropriate conditions.

If the dracaena turns yellow ...

The most dangerous reasons for this behavior are excessive watering, lack of light, or low temperature. Any of these factors provokes rot of the root system and intense decay of the foliage. Carefully check the moisture level in the pot with a wooden skewer: if the soil sticks, watering should be postponed.

Clogged and heavy soil can also cause yellowing of the leaves. Earth must be loose and breathable. Feeding that supports beauty is also important. For decorative foliage palm trees, this is, first and foremost, nitrogen! When a flower grows for a long time in one pot, a strong deficiency of trace elements occurs, therefore periodically do transshipment.

If dracaena has dry leaf tips ...

This phenomenon is quite rare and not progressive. The reason for this is dry air, especially in winter. Try to place the pot with a palm tree away from heating appliances, more often spray leaves. So that the defect is not very noticeable, you can trim the ends with scissors at an angle to the central vein.

If dracaena grows pale leaves ...

The flower of dracaena can change color in conditions of nutritional deficiency - in cramped conditions, inappropriate poor substrate, or in the complete absence of top dressing during growth. In addition, wintering becomes a difficult period, when the temperature is high and there is little light. Far from the light source, many palm trees change their direction of growth, stretch to the sun, and bend. From time to time it is useful to turn the pot and provide a sufficient level of lighting.

If there are spots on dracaena leaves ...

A palm tree could overheat in the sun, or freeze in a cold draft, so place your "pet" correctly. Low temperature plus high humidity contribute to the appearance of fungal diseases in the form of spots and plaque on the leaves. Diseases of indoor flowers.

• If dracaena lowered the leaves ...

This behavior is typical for palm trees after transplantation, especially dracaena Marginata reacts particularly strongly. Otherwise, it is worth checking the soil, it may be very dry and the plant is thirsty! In a compartment with yellow leaves, this may, on the contrary, be a sign of overflow.

Of the pests, the most dangerous is the spider mite, which tips will help get rid of: pests of indoor flowers.

Dracaena is a home photo of which you saw a popular houseplant that has many varieties of variegated and flowering in reserve. Growing it is not difficult!

If you still have questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. ? If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Dracaena: how to transplant a dragon tree

In recent years, dracaena has firmly established itself in the first lines of the list of popular indoor plants. Very similar to a palm tree, it is more patient and complaisant than Hamedorei, Neantes and other eminent tropical beauties. Dracaena is easy to care for, at home it can reach three meters in height and live for several decades. But the longevity will be only that dracaena, which is properly looked after and which is provided with a timely transplant.

Dracaena in natural and domestic conditions

Dracaena is a palm tree for busy and not too zealous gardeners. Although she is not even related to palm trees. Only in appearance it is very similar: a slender bare trunk with a cap of leaves on top.

In nature, dracaena lives for a very long time. On the island of Tenerife, a sacred dragon tree grew 23 meters high with a trunk circumference of 15 meters. Inside the hollow of this giant, locals who worshiped the dracaena built an altar. According to the biologist and teacher N.M. Verzilin, who described this tree in the last century, sailors could see this tree as far back as 1402. On the same island, a 21-meter dracaena was found, surviving to this day, which is supposedly over 300 years old.

The false palm of the dracaena from the true ones compares favorably with its unpretentious disposition, modest demands on the conditions of detention, and the ability to forgive gardeners for their mistakes.

This plant, especially marginata (edged) and dragon tree, can green the dark corners of your home. It grows without problems in partial shade.  Varieties with variegated leaves feel better in bright but diffused lighting. Direct rays can burn delicate greens. Dracaena loves artificial lighting, so she often decorates offices.

Dracaena does not require special temperature, it is suitable for moderate, indoor: in the summer +25 and above, in the winter of 18-20 degrees. That's just from its sharp drops and from drafts Dracaena must be protected - after all, she is a southerner.

It is advised to regularly spray dracaena and moisten the air for them. But this fully applies only to particularly delicate species, for example, fragrant and bent. As practice shows, the plant has already acclimatized to the dryness of our apartments.  Although, of course, a warm spray shower will be welcome. Dracaena will also like the hygienic rubbing of leaves from dust.

Summer watering of dracaena should be plentiful: the hotter, the more. In winter, water is given sparingly, but the soil is not completely dry. The lower the temperature, the less moisture. Excess water at the roots leads to disease. Therefore, it is useful to loosen the topsoil so that air penetrates into the pot without hindrance.

Over the years, dracaena, like real palm trees, loses lower leaves. This is a natural occurrence. It is necessary to worry if leaf fall becomes massive.

To stimulate lateral kidneys and rejuvenate, it is recommended to cut the dracaena.  Healthy plants, growth not less than 30 cm, cut off the top with a sharp knife, about 5-6 cm. It can then be rooted. The wound must be greased with garden varnish or sprinkled with charcoal. After about a month, new shoots should appear under the cut.

Video: how to care for a lazy palm tree

How to plant or transplant indoor dracaena

Dracaena is usually transplanted every two years. But this rule can be violated. If the plant develops well, does not cause concern - it is better not to disturb it.  Even the most skilled transplant is very stressful for the plant.

The root system will inevitably be injured during this operation. But in some situations, transplantation is the only way out.

When you need to transplant a dracaena:

The root system of the dracaena develops inland, it has few lateral processes.  Therefore, when choosing a new pot, pay attention to the tall and narrow containers. After transplanting, there should be enough space below for root development.

The size of the container depends on the size of the dracaena. A guideline here can be a plant 40–45 cm tall, which requires a pot with a diameter of 15–20 cm. Every 2-3 years, the diameter should increase by 2-3 cm, not more.  You should not save money and take dishes for growth for dracaena. The roots will not be able to settle in a large volume of soil, the moisture will stagnate and the putrefactive process will begin.

To think for a long time what is better: plastic or ceramic - it makes no sense, the picky dracaena grows equally well in dishes made of any material. So here rely only on your taste and finances.

But be sure to check the drainage holes in the pot, and if they are not there, be sure to do it.  They must be large enough to rid the plant of unnecessary moisture.

Necessary soil and drainage

Dracaenas are not capricious in the choice of soil. False palms like a breathable, moderately nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic (6–6.5 pH) substrate with a slight addition of loosening components and peat.

You can buy specialized soil for dracaena or palm trees, or you can make a mixture yourself. Here are some recipes:

• turf land - 2 parts, leaf and compost - 1 part each, peat - 0.5;
• on 2 shares of turf land - 1 deciduous and 0.5 coarse sand;
• on 2 shares of turf land on 1 share of sand, peat and humus land;
• equally leafy land, horse peat, chopped moss and half a fraction of perlite or coarse sand;
• into two parts of rotted compost or humus for part of leafy soil, sand or vermiculite;
• turf land, greenhouse and deciduous humus in equal shares, half of the share is river sand;
• universal soil for indoor plants half diluted with garden soil, add a little chopped moss.

Useful additives can be added to the soil mixture for dracaena: crumbs of charcoal or red brick.  Coal protects the roots and the earth from rot, and the brick enhances friability and absorbs excess moisture. The proportion is approximately this: on a bucket of soil 3-4 handfuls of coal and 0.5 kg of crushed brick. Like Dracaena and coconut fiber. Soak the briquette just before adding it: the coconut substrate greatly increases in volume.

Expanded clay, pebbles, vermiculite, brick chips, polystyrene are suitable for the drainage layer. It is not worth it to use drainage twice, especially expanded clay and brick, it absorbs harmful salts.

Proper land sterilization




It is better to sterilize the soil in advance, about a month before the intended transplant. It should lie down and come to life.

The right time for a transplant

Young dracaena (3-4 years of age) are usually transplanted in a year or two, adult specimens every 5 years or less. You can deal with transplantation during the entire period of vegetation (growth), that is, from spring to mid-autumn. But spring (in March - April) relocation is the best option.  The plant has awakened from hibernation, is actively building greenery and root system. This means that the new land will be quickly and profitably inhabited.

However, in some cases, it is necessary to change the soil and the pot even in late autumn. For example, a plant became ill from overflow, pests were found in the soil, or you purchased dracaena growing in the transport soil, and it is still far from spring. In an autumn transplant, there is nothing too extreme for a plant. Just take a closer look at the migrant and create milder conditions for him. If the dracaena does not take root, spray it with warm water with the addition of a stimulant (Zircon, Epin, Skor).

Transshipment is the best way to transplant

Transshipment is the most sparing type of transplant. It is suitable for healthy adult plants that need a little more room for growth. When transshipment, earthen is stored unchanged. And new soil is poured between it and the walls of the pot.  As a rule, dracaena perfectly tolerates this procedure. She does not have to spend energy on adaptation.

Step-by-step instructions for transshipment of dracaena

• Before transshipment for 3-4 days, do not water the dracaena, then the earthen coma can be saved.
• Prepare new soil, drainage and pot.
• At the bottom, pour a drainage layer, a little soil.
• Tilt the pot with dracaena or, if the size allows, turn over to get an earthen lump with roots. You can push it through the drain hole.
• Place an earthen lump in the center of the new pot, the top of the lump should be only slightly below the top edge of the container.
• Gradually sprinkle the earth from different directions, compacting with your fingers and shaking the pot.
• Do not fill the pot to the top to make it convenient to water the plant, and do not leave voids in the ground.
• After transplanting, water the dracaena well.
• Put it in a warm (+ 20–22 о С), slightly shaded place.
• Water sparingly for two weeks, avoiding overflow, occasionally spray. Observe the condition of the plant.
• If there are no problems, put the dracaena in a permanent place and take care as usual.

Transplant requirements after purchase

When buying dracaena, be careful. Look at the foliage, it should be clean with green tips.  Often in flower shops you can see plants with cut leaves. This means that they are not properly kept: in too dry air or without watering, and by cutting the ends of the leaves they try to mask the mistakes. Also examine the lower part of the leaves and the stem: if there are traces of pests.

When you bring the dracaena home, do not rush to introduce it to the other green inhabitants. Keep the plant in quarantine for at least 2 weeks. During this time, problems not noticed in the store may appear. In addition, the dracaena must adapt to the new environment.

And two weeks later, the question must be solved: to transplant the dracaena or not. If there is no doubt in plant health, wait with a transplant until spring. There are some problems, for example, poor soil quality, transplant your false palm at any time of the year. Usually store plants are kept in a peaty poor substrate. But for dracaena, it is not so harmful, it, unlike cacti, is tolerant of peat. Therefore, when transplanting a recently purchased plant, do not clean the root system completely, but remove only what is left behind.

Landing and transplanting

• Pour a layer of expanded clay or other drainage into a new pot. On top of it is a soil mixture.
• Do not water Dracaena before transplanting for 3-4 days, so that the earth at the roots dries and does not crumble.
• Draw a knife or spatula along the edge of the flower pot, separating the earthen lump from the walls.

  Video: how can transplant dracaena

  Large dracaena transplant

  At home, over time, dracaena grows into a three-meter tree. Such a giant is very difficult to transplant. It is much easier to update only the top layer (5-6 cm) of soil. Humus or other useful components are necessarily added to the new soil for nutrition.

  But sometimes transplants cannot be avoided. Then look for an assistant. It is very difficult to deal with the transplantation of tall dracaena alone.

  Stages of transplanting a large specimen:

• Before transplanting, do not water the dracaena for several days, so that an earthen clod is easier to remove from the pot.
• Prepare the soil mixture, drainage and pot.
• At the bottom of the tank, pour a drainage layer and part of the soil.
• Using a knife or spatula, carefully draw along the inner walls of the old pot to separate the grown roots.
• If the roots sprouted into the drainage holes, trim them.
• Get the dracaena with an earthen lump from the old pot (perhaps for this you will have to stand on a chair, holding the plant by the stem, and the assistant will pull the pot). Another option: carefully put the plant on its side and knock on the pot well, then carefully pull out the dracaena along with an earthen lump.
• Shake off the soil slightly, do not remove all. Remove too long roots from below, do not worry too much during surgery - dracaena will quickly restore what was lost.
• Transfer the plant to a new pot, set in the center and gradually fill the distance between the walls and the earthen lump with soil, slightly tamping it.
• Water the soil around, wait for it to settle, and add more soil. But do not try to fill the pot to the brim, otherwise it will then be inconvenient to water, change the topsoil.

For oversized dracaenas, so as not to transplant often, you can take the pot slightly for growth. And it is better to invest in ceramic. It is more stable than plastic.

Video: how to transplant a high dracaena

Transplant Care

After dracaena moved to a new pot, it needs to create greenhouse conditions for a couple of weeks. This means that the plant is placed in a quiet and warm place without drafts, protect from direct sun. The best lighting is dim.

Water the dracaena very carefully.  After transplanting, the main danger is waterlogging of the soil. The roots have not yet penetrated into the new soil, moisture may not be absorbed and stagnate in the pot. This will lead to acidification and rot. Pests are happy to settle in moist soil.

Transplant Issues

Most often, dracaena safely relocates from pot to pot and quickly adapts. But there are also problematic transplants. Then the plant becomes bored, the leaves wilt, the green hat of the foliage turns yellow. What is the cause of malaise? It can be assumed that during the transplant one or more errors were made:

1. Incorrect soil mixture. Dracaena does not tolerate heavy and too greasy soil, soil with a high content of peat, which repels moisture, is not suitable for it. The solution to the problem is a new transplant into the correct land.
2. The new pot is too big. A plant weakened by a transplant cannot use all of the soil. Undeveloped soil will be constantly wet, then acidify, and the growth of putrefactive flora will begin. And there, not far from the roots and rot. The way out is a transplant into a smaller pot with soil replacement.
3. Waterlogging after transplantation is the most common problem. Caring owners water the plant, without waiting for the surface of the earth to dry out, the soil turns into a swamp, the flower becomes even sadder. To please, it is watered again. With such "care" and death can occur. Do not water the plant until the top layer of soil dries 1–2 cm, remove water from the sump. If the situation is critical, try drying the earthen room. Remove it from the pot and place it on paper (so that moisture is absorbed) in a warm and dry place. If you want to take care of dracaena, it is better to spray it, but also without undue enthusiasm.
4. Incorrect contents after transplantation. This often happens during the autumn-winter transplant. In a cool room, a weakened plant freezes. Put the dracaena closer to the warm battery, and so that it does not suffer from dry air, spray it, put nearby containers of water.

Yellowing and death of leaves

Yellow leaves and small leaf fall are normal in the first two weeks after transplanting. But if the fall of the leaves intensifies further, measures must be taken. Yellowing is a sign of overflow or airtight soil.  Reduce hydration. Change the soil if necessary.

  Dracaena yellow leaves - a serious reason to think about the grower

If the leaves of the dracaena have brown and dry tips, the air dryness is most likely to blame. Spray the plant and moisten the air. Another reason is overfeeding dracaena. After transplantation, it should not be fed 2-3 months. Everything you need is already in the soil, if it is properly composed.

The tips of the leaves blacken in a too cold room or when touching a cold window pane.

Dracaena lowered the leaves

Video: Fix Transplant Errors

Cuttings

Beautiful palms are not easy to breed and only by seed. And a dracaena, so similar to a palm tree, is easy to grow from a stalk. Roots and segments of the stem lend themselves to rooting.  Thus, you can not only get a new plant, but also rejuvenate the old.

We plant cuttings

1. In an adult and healthy dracaena, cut the stalk 3–5 cm with a sharp sterile knife: top of the stem with leaves.

A plant without a crown also does not leave without attention.  Sprinkle the wound with charcoal and dry. Spray the plant with growth stimulants. After 3-4 weeks, new kidneys begin to develop under the cut. Dracaena will receive a second life.

The amazing vitality of dracaena and its ability to reproduce formed the basis of the Aztec legend. According to her, the high priest, who did not want to give his daughter in marriage to a warrior, stuck a stick in the ground and said that if there were no leaves on it in five days, there would be no wedding. And he promised to execute the groom. The warrior began to water this stick. And on the fifth day, leaves grew on it - that was how dracaena was born. The Aztecs call it the tree of happiness.

Dracaena is propagated and segments of the stem up to 12 cm. Sections are dusted with charcoal, the cuttings are dug in moistened sand and a greenhouse is arranged. Just don't confuse the top end with the bottom. Such cuttings take root in 2-3 weeks.

Some gardeners create original compositions by planting several young dracaena in one pot. So they look more magnificent. However, do not plant old and young dracaena together. An adult plant will not allow a teenager to develop.

Rooting cuttings of dracaena

Reviews of gardeners: beautiful, complaisant, unpretentious

Dracaena is not a sissy. I had a cat drop it from a shelf onto a table: a pot to smithereens, a dracaena crown into a laptop ... A pile of land. fragments, broken leaves ... And her cat ate repeatedly. All dracaena nothing.

About the transplant. I usually put two pots in the bathtub - with a flower and a new one with a small layer of earth. Then I spill a pot of flower with water, then I pry off the earth with a small spatula, pull out a flower with a lump of earth - and immediately into the next pot. I top up the earth, tamp a little, spill water as it should. I leave it for 40 minutes in the bathtub so that the excess water is glass. All.

Olesya

http://www.woman.ru/rest/medley8/thread/4193523/

When transplanting dracaena, a prerequisite is that there should not be spaces empty in the roots, i.e. the earth should be carefully distributed between the roots and roots during transplantation, so as not to rot, add coal powder, a little Fitosporin. Watering immediately is not necessary, in the new land and so there is moisture, the first watering in a couple of days. Drainage is necessary - I have 1/4 pot of polystyrene foam. But I would have cleaned the whole store land, just soak the roots in a bucket of warm water for 5 minutes and rinse them. I personally popped a bunch of earthworms. After transplantation, Dracene was sprayed with Epin solution every 10 days (3 times). The pot must necessarily be commensurate with the root stain - otherwise everything will rot. I have a big pot, but half a pot of land, as it grows, I will add land. You can’t bury the trunk - only roots should be in the ground.

Oksana

http://eka-mama.ru/forum/part58/topic139865/?PAGEN_1\u003d2

Too big a pot is not good either. At least pouring is very easy. I poured my favorite dracaena from great love thoroughly after transplantation. In a small pot, she simply swallowed water. And after transplanting into a large pot, out of habit I also watered it abundantly. But is there a lot of land? and it keeps moisture. As a result, she hung all the leaves. I had to urgently change the land. Now she has come back. But the view is not the same as before. So, if you transplant into a large pot, then you need to be watered very carefully. Moreover, other dracaena transplanted into the same pots with the same root system feel normal. I usually watered them. I didn’t try so hard.
If the roots stick out of the pot, it is necessary to transplant, since in the pan they begin to rot. I checked this on personal experience.

http://homeflowers.ru/yabbse/index.php?showtopic\u003d5583

My parents have dracaena at least 10 years old. It was brought once long ago from Spain in the form of a piece of the trunk. Once every couple of years, when it outgrows all possible sizes, it is mercilessly chopped into separate pieces, similar to firewood. These firewoods are scattered in glasses of water and perfectly take root. The first time, too, was scary, but over so many years almost all the processes have taken root. Already half of the city, probably, our offspring are growing!

frekensnork

http://forum.ditenok.com/showthread.php?t\u003d34842

It is not by chance that Dracaena became one of the most popular plants. Its original leaves give an exquisite style to any interior. And to look after her is simple and pleasant. And even such a traumatic procedure as a transplant, a patient dracaena transfers with dignity. The main thing is not to disappoint this plant, to do everything according to the rules.

Causes of dropped leaves in dracaena

Dracaena is considered a very unpretentious indoor plant. She does not need special care. But in order for the flower to please the eye as long as possible with its splendor and beauty, respond in time to any changes in its appearance. What are the drooped leaves of dracaena talking about?

Why is dracaena letting go of leaves

We will analyze what causes this problem and what needs to be done to solve it.

Why do dracaena drop leaves?

There may be several reasons:

2. improper watering;
3. not suitable in size pot;
4. nutrient deficiency;
5. lack of moisture;
6. drafts and broken temperature;
7. the plant was frozen.

The soil should be moist, not moist. The plant is watered with settled water at room temperature, when the earthen lump dries by about 2 cm. The irrigation regimen is 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in the pot, pour expanded clay or coarse-grained sand on its bottom with a layer of 3-4 cm, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from decay. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.

In the hot summer period, the flower needs to be sprayed. To wash off the dust and refresh it, we recommend once a month to put the plant in the shower, covering the ground with cellophane. After bathing the leaf growth point, blot with a napkin.

Close pot

The second reason that the leaves are constantly lowered down may be an improperly sized flower pot. If it is small, then plant nutrition is difficult. Roots need space. Check the tightness of their fit to the walls of the pot. If necessary, transplant a flower.

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

Lower leaflets may fall down due to insufficient nutrients. In a cramped pot with a very developed root system, the earth quickly becomes poorer, the upper crown grows due to the lower foliage. During the period of active growth from April to September 1-2 times a month, feed the roots with pre-selected fertilizers. When watering, you can use liquid fertilizers according to the instructions.

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.

A flower loves humid air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the flowerpot on a pan with water so that the bottom of the flowerpot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.

About the causes of drying of dracaena leaves and their methods





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Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. Evergreen palm up to 35 years old is considered to be young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

How to transplant dracaena yourself and avoid mistakes

When do I need a transplant?

How to transplant dracaena at home? First of all, it is necessary to decide in which period it is best to take for a rejuvenating and stimulating flower growth procedure. The best time is the end of winter or the beginning of spring. Since the plant wakes up after hibernation, and its vital processes become more active, dracaena transplantation at home will be the least stressful for it.



To clearly understand in what cases it is necessary to undertake the renewal of the soil mixture in a flower pot, select the following list:

8. it is recommended to transplant the dracaena into another pot if the rhizome has grown so much that it filled the container, and its processes can even be seen on the surface of the earthen coma. By updating the substrate and picking up a larger flower pot, you will create enough free space for your plant and stimulate the growth of shrubs;
9. transplanting dracaena after purchase is another requirement for a grower. First, indoor flowers are sold in fragile plastic pots or flowerpots, not intended for long-term use. Secondly, you cannot be sure of the quality of the soil mixture and the absence of pests until you replace the substrate with your own hands;
10. it is recommended to plant dracaena if you overfill the soil with water, and dropped leaves of the plant and its decay on the face;
11. the soil for transplantation needs to be updated, since the substrate in which the indoor shrub grows has ceased to be nutritious. In addition, the earth becomes very clogged over time and begins to pass water and air poorly;
12. when a plant is infected with pests, not only its treatment with insecticidal drugs, but also transplantation of a home palm will help.



Knowing how to plant dracaena at home, and at what time is best done, you can achieve excellent results during the cultivation of shrubs.

What tools will be needed

To properly plant this homemade flower, you must clearly know which devices will help you in your work. It is not enough to determine what size pot the dracaena needs. Among the tools and materials that an experienced grower should have at hand, it is worth highlighting the following:

13. drainage;
14. high-quality soil mixture;
15. spray;
16. a container of water;
17. scissors or pruner.

Knowing how to properly transplant a dracaena, you stimulate your indoor shrub to even more active development.

Choosing the right pot

Perhaps you, as a beginner grower, can think about which pot to transplant the dracaena into. This moment must be given due attention. It is believed that a ceramic flower pot is best suited for dracaena. What is good about this material is its culvert properties, which is priceless for your indoor flower.



If you wish, you can buy a plastic flowerpot. However, in this case, be prepared for the fact that the irrigation regime will have to be observed with particular care. The water in the pot dries a little longer than in a container made of ceramics, so you can not overmoisten the substrate in any case. As for the sizes, it is better to buy a pot that is 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. It is impossible to plant the shrub in a too spacious container, since the plant will put all its strength into the growth of the rhizome, and not the stem part.

Which soil is suitable

How to plant a dracaena and what kind of land this plant needs - it is advisable to find out these points in advance so as not to make mistakes. Prepare the substrate for the indoor shrub yourself or buy the finished mixture for palm trees in a specialized store. If you decide to mix all the necessary components for the soil composition at home, you will need turf land, peat, leaf soil, as well as compost.

Step-by-step instruction

Let's find out how to transplant the dracaena after the purchase in stages. Even if you are going to carry out this kind of procedure for the first time, there should not be any problems.



This process necessarily includes the following points:

18. approximately 3-4 days before the transplant, it is recommended that the substrate is not wetted;
19. at the bottom of the pot you purchased you need to pour pebbles, expanded clay or cracked bricks - this material will perform the function of drainage;
20. thoroughly inspect the root system of the flower, if you need to trim old or damaged root processes;
21. place the plant in a new flowerpot, fill the roots with the soil mixture, and form a mound not too large around the stem - this way, water after irrigation will drain down.

To dracaena after transplantation did not lower the leaves, be sure to provide competent care for the flower, especially at first.

Further care and mistakes for beginners

In general, dracaena transplanted in spring or summer is treated under the same conditions as before the procedure. Do not leave the flower in the sun, as the plant may get burned. It is recommended to moisten the substrate 3-4 times a week. Do not forget to spray the leaves of the flower, as the plant is very fond of moisture. From time to time, fertilizers must be applied to the soil.



As for the mistakes, even if they are made, they rarely lead to the death of the bush. However, buying an oversized flower pot can contribute to plant wilt. The same can be said about the overmoistening of the soil substrate. Create favorable conditions for the shrub for growth, provide care for the dracaena based on the basic recommendations of specialists, and the plant will fully develop, and you can later transplant the flower without much effort.

Video "Dracaena transplant"

From this video you will learn how to properly transplant a dracaena.

Rules for self-transplanting dracaena

Most gardeners consider dracaena one of the most beautiful indoor plants. Dracaena is able to decorate any interior due to its unusual and spectacular appearance. Like any other plant, it will require a transplant. This process can be carried out immediately after purchase or after some time. A correct transplant will help to get rid of all sorts of problems associated with caring for dracaena.

Dracaena is one of the most beautiful ornamental deciduous plants. Most of them came from the tropics. About 150 varieties of this plant are counted, whose homeland is called tropical and subtropical Africa, as well as islands located in southeast Asia.

Regardless of variety, dracaena occasionally requires a transplant. into a larger pot. The need for this arises because the root system of the plant does not tolerate crowding. Young dracaena is recommended to be transplanted annually with the advent of spring. For larger and adult dracaena, transplantation is needed as it grows. If there is no need to transplant the plant yet, in spring it is necessary to change the topmost layer of soil with heavier soil.

It is generally accepted that in emergency situations, dracaena can be transplanted even in autumn, despite the fact that the plant is preparing for winter sleep. Emergencies mean the threat of withering or drying out due to an overly tight pot, and the purchase of a young, new plant. After acquiring dracaena, a transplant should be made in a few weeks, regardless of the time of year. This is explained by the fact that in the store the plant is placed in small pots, with improper soil, abundantly saturated with fertilizers designed to accelerate growth. All this can lead to the death of dracaena.

Of course, the dracaena transplant carried out in the autumn, is very stressful  for the plant. A natural reaction to it will be falling of leaves or their yellowing. It must be remembered that any indoor flower, including dracaena, is categorically not recommended to be disturbed in the fall. It is at this time that preparation for wintering occurs, and excess stress will cause depletion of the plant.

Before proceeding with the transplant, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the features characteristic of dracaena. Observing the simple rules, you can easily save yourself from the many problems associated with plant transplantation. The quality of the earth has a direct impact on the condition of the flower, its growth, proper development. In this regard, it is necessary with all responsibility to approach the choice of soil in which dracaena will be located.

The substrate, which has a direct impact on the further development, growth and health status of the plant, plays one of the most important roles in dracaena transplantation. Overall this the flower is picky enough  and is able to easily accept any soil. However, the most suitable option for the plant is peat-containing land with an acidity level of 6.0-6.5.

If you have to choose between a ready-made purchased substrate and a self-prepared mixture, it would be better to completely rely on your own capabilities and feelings. The only exception to the rule is the use of sheet soil, which was previously in the garden or in the garden. This type of soil should not be used when transplanting, since it contains a fairly large amount of mineral salts and fertilizers.

The most suitable option is a mixture prepared from leaf, compost, peat and turf lands in the ratio 1: 1: 0.5: 2. In order to prevent soil caking, it is also recommended to add about a quarter of a pot of river sand. If it was decided to purchase a finished substrate, you need to pay special attention to the presence in it of the necessary nutrients and trace elements.

How to choose a flower pot

To date, the attention of gardeners presented huge assortment of flowerpots, among which it is rather difficult to make the right choice. Almost every person, first of all, pays attention to the pots having the most attractive external characteristics. However, such containers may in fact be unsuitable for use. In this regard, when choosing a new flower pot for dracaena, you must comply following recommendations:

22. In order for the plant to please the eye for a long time, a new flowerpot should be chosen, starting from the size of the root system. For example, with a dracaena height of about 40 cm, the pot should be at least 15 cm in diameter.
23. The diameter of each subsequent flowerpot should be in diameter 2 or 3 cm more than the previous. The grave mistake of some novice flower lovers is to buy a pot too large, taken with a margin. In such a container, the water will stagnate, having a detrimental effect on the health status of the plant.
24. Most gardeners are convinced that a ceramic flowerpot is best suited for dracaena. They justify this opinion by the probability of a better supply of the root system with oxygen, obtained due to the porous structure of the container. At the same time, it is believed that the substrate in this case dries out more evenly. In fact, as practice shows, in ordinary plastic pots, dracaena grows and develops no worse.
25. If dracaena is old enough, it is better to choose stable flowerpot, with glassy outlines.
26. One of the prerequisites for choosing a pot is the presence of holes in the bottom, due to the fact that for dracaena stagnation of water in the soil coma can be fatal.

The dracaena transplant process

The plant life depends entirely on how correctly and in a timely manner the plant is transplanted. It is highly recommended not to do this in the autumn. With the advent of autumn, the flower prepares for winter holidays and breaking this process can harm the dracaena.

For a transplant you will need:

27. A new flowerpot with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm larger than the previous one.
28. Soil purchased in the store or prepared independently.
29. Expanded clay or other drainage.
30. A sharp knife or pruner.
31. A vessel of water heated to room temperature.
32. Sprayer for water.

In a new pot, pre-treated with hot water, it is necessary to pour prepared drainage layer. The height of this layer is determined by the presence of perforation in the bottom of the tank. If there are no holes, then the drainage thickness needs to be increased, and if there is, then for a medium-sized pot, the height should be 2-3 cm. After completion, you need to very carefully remove the dracaena from the previous flowerpot, carefully freeing the root system from the old soil. If there are rotting sites on the roots, they must be removed and sprayed onto the dracaena root system using a spray gun.

Dracaena should be placed in a new flowerpot and carefully fill in the remaining space among the roots. Do not allow appearance in the root system air sacs. After graduation, for the quickest adaptation of the flower to new soil, you should pour it with a solution of fertilizers. In the future, dracaena should be moderately watered. At first, it is recommended to use zircon. Fertilizers will need to be applied twice a month. With the correct transplant, this dose should be enough.

When transplanting dracaena, special attention should be paid to the zone of transition of the plant trunk to the root neck. This place can not be excessively deepened into the ground, and the neck needs to be slightly sprinkled with earth. The soil is better to use light or medium density. The roots of dracaena really like the air. Most gardeners believe that the plant should be transplanted into store peat soil, however, it is too heavy. Best of all, a flower grows in a mixture of peat soil with coco soil or deciduous. In this case, the roots receive a sufficient amount of air and moisture.

After planting, the plant needs put in a quiet placeso that no one hurts him. It is important that it receives enough dim light. The most successful time for transplantation are:

33. late fall. Transplant overgrown color as needed.
34. early spring. Good time to transplant a young plant.

The flowerpot should be slightly larger than its predecessor, since in a very large pot the flower may die.

Plant transplant after purchase

Is it necessary to transplant dracaena immediately after its acquisition? There is no single answer to this question. A younger plant is better leave in the same pot  before spring. In case of doubt about the need for a transplant, it is recommended to choose a transshipment. In this case, dracaena with the earth is transferred to a larger pot and supplemented with new soil. After this, the plant must be fertilized with zircon.

If the purchased plant is planted in the transport soil, then it must be transplanted into new soil, removing completely the old one.

Feeding dracaena after transplantation

After all procedures related to transplant, dracaena adapts for several weeks. At this time, the root system is formed. In order for the process to go as quickly as possible, the plant needs to be watered with a liquid that stimulates root growth, but not more than twice a month. In general, the plant should be fed from March to November, with a frequency of once every few weeks. In winter, top dressing should be done once a month, and the amount of active substance must be reduced by half. A universal fertilizer used for dracaena and palm trees is best suited.

Watering dracaena

The process of watering dracaena is no different from the usual. The only caveat is the need for the first time add zircon to the irrigation fluid.

So, dracaena transplantation is a fairly simple action that even a novice flower lover can handle.

Typical diseases of dracaena and their effective treatment with an explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.

Why do dracaena drop leaves? Causes  may be the following: the plant goes through a period of acclimatization after purchase, a transplant was carried out with soil replacement, which violated the integrity of the root system, and the irrigation mode was incorrect.

Only a purchased plant must undergo a period of acclimatization under the new conditions. Dracaena is no exception. The light level in the new room, humidity and air temperature - all this can affect the well-being of the flower. No need to worry if dracaena is only purchased and it has lowered leaves. For prevention, you need to inspect the plant carefully. If there are no pests on it, the root system is in order, the trunk does not rot - there is no need to take drastic measures. Experts recommend not replanting the flower within 1 month after purchase. After this period, transplant by transshipment and strictly observe the rules for caring for dracaena. As practice shows, all dracaena drop leaves after the purchase. This is a normal occurrence. In a healthy flower, only the crown, that is, young leaves, will look up.

Dracaena dropped leaves immediately after transplantation. This indicates a violation of the root system of the flower, namely, very thin roots that form a spider web at the bottom of the pot. They are involved in plant nutrition and provide the plant with water. It is not recommended to transplant dracaena in a complete replacement of the soil. She is more likely to transship in a larger pot. Thus, the root system will not be injured.

However, if the transplant has already been carried out and the dracaena has lowered the leaves, while its lower leaves can turn yellow intensively, the following steps must be performed: spray the flower with a cyclone (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water) and place it under the greenhouse or a spacious cap. Leaves should not touch the walls of the greenhouse. At the same time, watering is significantly reduced. Before the next watering, the ground in the pot should completely dry (you can 1 time in 2-3 weeks). On the contrary, it is necessary to spray the flower very often with ordinary water in order to maintain high humidity under the greenhouse. The number of sprayings depends on the room temperature. The colder the less often. Cycron can be used only 1 time per week. At the first watering, the cyclone must be added to the water for irrigation. This stimulates the growth of the root system. After a transplant with a violation of the root system, dracaena lacks moisture. At the same time, intensive watering will lead to decay of the root system. The plant will replenish the lack of moisture through the crown. That is why in a greenhouse they maintain high humidity.

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Reason: Wrong watering mode. In the first case, the amount of moisture is simply not enough for the plant to maintain normal leaf turgor. In the second - there is too much moisture, which led to the decay of the root system. Through damaged roots, the plant also does not receive enough moisture. Increasing the number of irrigations will not solve the problem.

If dracaena lowered leaves due to lack of moisture, what should I do?  It is necessary to place the flower under the greenhouse and conduct regular spraying. It is impossible to sharply increase the number of irrigation, as this will harm the roots. Keep the plant under the greenhouse for 3-5 days. Watering the flower should be plentiful, but only after the earth coma is completely dry. Water from the pan must be removed.

Dracaena gets an excess of moisture. As a result, the root system does not cope with an excess of fluid and begins to rot. Damaged roots no longer absorb moisture from the ground, and therefore dracaena lowers the leaves. What to do? First of all, normalize watering. Next, you need to carefully, without violating the integrity of the root system, remove the dracaena from the pot by the barrel. Inspect the roots. If the root system is light yellow or white, but not brown, it is healthy. The plant is returned back to the pot and reduce watering. Watering should be plentiful, but only after the soil has completely dried in a pot.

If the dracaena lowered the leaves and its roots are soaked, flabby and have an unhealthy shade, this indicates rotting. Damaged roots are removed. The plant is transplanted into a new, special, slightly moist soil. Dracaena is placed under a greenhouse. Watering is minimized, and spraying, on the contrary, is speeded up. Can be added to spray water for cyclone. The plant is removed from the greenhouse when it begins to drive out new leaves.

Why do dracaena dry the tips of leaves?  Reasons: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime is violated, heavy soil.

Dracaena is a light-loving flower, and therefore its tips of the leaves very often turn yellow due to a lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown under indoor conditions, the tips of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination with an energy-saving lamp up to 12 hours. The flower must be placed at the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows do not fit the flower.

You noticed that the dracaena looks bad, the tips of its leaves are drying. What to do in such cases? It is necessary to pay attention to the watering mode. Perhaps the plant is waterlogged. As a result, its root system rots, leaves do not get enough moisture through diseased roots, and therefore their tips dry. Dracaena is watered only after the soil has completely dried in a pot. Watering in this case is carried out abundant, so that the water out into the pan through the drainage holes. Water is immediately removed from the pan. Otherwise, the bottom of the pot will not dry out, the roots will rot. You can not put a pot of dracaena on wet expanded clay. To check the condition of the root system, the plant is carefully removed from the pot. Healthy roots will be light. Regular spraying will help the flower. You can add cyclone or epin to the water for spraying once a week.

Dracaena dry the tips of the leaves, if the room is low humidity. For this, frequent spraying of the flower is carried out, a humidifier is placed next to it. During the heating season, do not place the plant next to heating appliances.

Dracaena does not grow, new leaves grow deformed, stems are thinned and extended. Reason: the plant lacks sunlight. Perhaps the flower is in the back of the room where the light does not penetrate, or the length of daylight is shortened due to the onset of autumn-winter. Experts recommend placing dracaena near windows on the south or southeast side of the house, but with mandatory shading from midday heat. To diffuse direct sunlight on the window, just hang a transparent curtain. In autumn and winter, it is recommended that the dracaena be illuminated with an artificial light lamp (fluorescent or a special phytolamp). In total, the duration of daylight hours for the successful development of leaflets should be 12-14 hours.

With the onset of autumn-winter (from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dracaena dormancy period, upon the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, reduce the temperature of the plant (up to +17 ... + 18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and feeding are not carried out. During the resting period, the dracaena slows its growth, and therefore, in conditions of insufficient illumination, it does not expel new, deformed leaves, its branches do not thin out.

Dracaena is one of the most popular home flowers, used not only as an indoor plant, but also as an office plant. To ensure a flower's long life, you need to know the general rules for caring for it; it is especially important to recognize diseases on time. A serious and obvious symptom of ill health is leaf fall. Find out why this is happening and how to solve this problem.

Why dracaena drops leaves: the main reasons

Homeland dracaena are tropical forests. Externally, the flower resembles a palm tree: it has a straight stem that ends with a rosette of long leaves growing 20-60 cm in length.

Dracaena is a flower that tends to drop leaves, but this is not a natural process. With a large loss of leaves, the plant dies, so this problem should cause immediate intervention by the gardener.

Did you know? « Dracaena»   translated from the ancient Greek language  as« dragon female". Also called shrub« dragon tree» . The name comes from a legend that long ago, two giants - a dragon and an elephant - converged in battle. The dragon was crushed by an elephant, and in the place where drops of his blood fell, huge trees with a magnificent crown grew.

In addition, decorative qualities are highly valued in dracaena, and the loss of deciduous cover will deprive the flower of its main content advantage.
The main reasons for falling leaves are:

It should be borne in mind that dracaena itself throws off the leaves, if it is no longer a young plant. The maximum lifespan of dracaena is 15 years; when approaching this age, leaf fall is a natural process.

Violation of conditions

If the plants wilted and fell off in a short time, and the trunk began to rot and dry, it is necessary to change the conditions of the flower.

  Good growth will be ensured by such parameters of care:

1. Temperature. The plant loves a temperature of + 20–25 ° C in the summer. And in the cold season, the minimum allowable temperature is + 16 ° C. If you keep the flower at a lower temperature, it will stop growing and fall into suspended animation.
2. Lighting. Dracaena loves the sun, since the plant was brought from the sunny tropics, however, direct rays are harmful to it. It is best to place the pot in partial shade. The most sensitive to light are variegated dracaena.
3. Location in the house. Since direct rays are undesirable for the plant, it is best to place it on the east or west side of the house. Most often located on the windowsills.
4. Pruning. A necessary process for the growth of lateral buds of a tree. The flower should be at least 30 cm high - only then can it be cut. You can remove leaves in spring or summer.
5. Moisturizing. A tropical plant requires plenty of moisture, especially in winter, during the heating season. To do this, you need to do air spraying near the flower pot.

Improper maintenance of the shrub at room conditions leads to the fact that it loses its natural beauty and color of leaves, the shape of the bush, the health of the trunk and root system. Therefore, before you buy such a plant, it is important to familiarize yourself with the rules of its cultivation in advance.

Lack or excess of fertilizer

Complex fertilizers are used as top dressing for dracaena. They must be given a flower twice a month, during the period of active growth, from approximately March to early September.

In gardening stores you can buy special fertilizers for dracaena: "Rainbow", "Ideal", "Dracaena."

The lack of trace elements, especially potassium, leads to the fact that the flower is covered with bronze spots and stripes. And from an excess of fertilizing, the roots and stem of the dracaena can rot.

Important!The abundance of fertilizer containing fluoride can lead to loss of color of leaves and their fall.

Wrong watering

Watering is the main way to nourish the shrub with water. To prevent the death of dracaena, you need to remember that she loves abundant watering, but it is not necessary to fill it too much, otherwise the root system will become waterlogged and begin to rot, and with it the stem.

In summer, dracaena is watered once every two to three days, while checking whether the earth has dried up at the base of the stem. Water is used at room temperature. Additionally, water is sprayed from the spray near the plant, thus moistening the air next to it. Withering leaves is a signal that you need to water more often.

In winter, the flower rests, and he needs watering every 3-4 days. However, if your plant stands on a windowsill under a battery, it needs to be watered more often. It is necessary to focus on the soil: if it has already dried up and you do not see wet spots, then you can water the pot again.

Transplant root damage

Since the root system of dracaena grows rapidly, very soon the gardener will be faced with the need to transplant it into a new pot. For a flower with a height of about 40 centimeters, a container with a diameter of 15 centimeters is needed.

The roots of the shrub are quite strong, but nevertheless, when separating the stems, it is important not to damage them, otherwise the plant will not develop further.

Important!A transplant should not be done more often than once every 2-3 years.

It is better to carry out the procedure in late March - early April. When replanting, do not forget to keep the drainage layer in the pot so that the bush does not have an excess of moisture.

Pests and diseases

Diseases and pests can nullify any efforts of the gardener. To avoid this, you need to be able to determine their symptoms in time.

Did you know? According to the ancient Aztec legend, the cut trunk of the dracaena in the full moon will bring happiness and love.

How to save a plant

If you notice signs of illness or a sharp fall of leaves in your dracaena, you need to decide how to reanimate the shrub.

In order not to treat bush diseases, preventive measures must be taken in time to prevent diseases.

Important!Note that each year a flower drops a small amount of yellowed leaves from the bottom of the stem to prepare for the winter season. This is a natural process.

1. When planting in a pot, make a drainage system. This way you protect your roots from excess water.
2. The flower does not tolerate drafts, but dies at low temperature. Therefore, in the cold season, make sure that the plant does not freeze.
3. Dracaena is a moisture-loving bush, and requires high humidity of air and soil. Do not miss watering the plants even in the winter season.
4. Also, do not apply too much fertilizer to the soil so that the leaves do not fall. In this case, it is better to add less minerals so as not to burden the soil.

Dracaena is an exotic plant that at any time of the year will remind you of the sea, palm trees and relaxation. It is not difficult to grow it, you only need to follow the basic rules of maintenance. And even if the plant was struck by the disease, it is important to help him in time, eliminating the cause of the falling leaves.

Dracaena is a very delicate flower that requires proper care, not experimentation with it. It is necessary to transplant the plant in clean, new soil, to water it - no more than once a week, and with mineral - organic fertilizer - only twice a month.

One of the most problematic species of dracaena is Bamboo of Happiness and Marginata, although other species of this plant also undergo various diseases. Dracaena is a very demanding plant, afraid of drafts. It is recommended to remove it from bright light and put it in a moderately lit place. Leaves to the maximum to remove from the bottom up. Only leave small leaves at the crown. This method should help for palm renewal. It is strictly forbidden to transfer Dracaen, there should not be an excess of water in the pot.

The main reasons why dracaena dropped leaves

- Moisture. The primary reason is precisely the presence of low humidity in the room where this plant is located. After all, this flower is considered a southern plant that is adapted for tropical conditions, so for it the humidity in the air should not be lower than 60-70%. And in ordinary apartments, mostly the humidity is lower, and in winter especially when hot batteries, different heaters heat and dry it, then the humidity can drop to 20%, which can very badly affect these plants. In this regard, all gardeners need to additionally humidify the air in the premises, regularly spraying rooms where there are plants, or purchase a special humidifier or put a container of water near the battery, then the water will evaporate under the influence of high temperature and thereby increase humidity.

There are also other causes of Dracaena ailment. These include incorrect or poor watering, which lead your flower to a deplorable state. Do not forget that such a flower should be watered only when the earth becomes dry in the pot, about once a week, no more and no less.

- Draft. Another reason for the poor condition of dracaena can be an ordinary draft in the room. This is especially dangerous during winter or late autumn, so at this time you should not keep these plants on the window. After all, they can get sick under the influence of cold.

- Nutrition. If you are trying hard to take care of your dracaena, but it is still listless in appearance and not viable, then try to analyze your care. May cause a flower ailment is a lack of vitamins. Ask experienced gardeners, try different types of fertilizers, top dressing intended for indoor plants. Sometimes sluggish leaves and slow plant growth are a sign that your flower in the pot is very crowded, so you need to carefully transplant it into a wide pot. This is best done in early spring, and the soil is better to take in the form of landless mixtures.

Dracaena can lower its leaves even after transplanting, for a week it can continue to hurt, and if after this period the former elasticity and brightness did not return to the flower, then a special growth stimulator should be applied.

In addition to all the probable reasons why the dracaena dropped leaves, the content of the plant in winter with a temperature of no higher than 18 degrees Celsius in the room. However, if the temperature is at least a few degrees higher, the plant will forever lower its leaves down along the trunk (typical for all species of ficus with large leaves that are contained in apartments with central heating).

To prevent such unpleasant consequences, you just need to follow all the basic rules for caring for dracaena, then this plant will always delight you with a beautiful view. Maintain the desired temperature, place it in bright diffused light, constantly monitor the humidity in the room and do not fill it with large amounts of water.

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