To date, there is a sufficiently large number of instructions with which you can do. However, in some cases such a bed can cost quite expensive.

The double bed can be made with their own hands from wood, plywood, metal or even from pallets.

You can make a double bed for about 10 days. Such a term is associated with the necessary technological intervals. For the manufacture of the design, a large number of materials will not be purchased.

The bed of this type can be made of wood or metal.

Metal design

The base of the metal bed is welded from profile pipes.

Today, the designs of the chipboard are very common, because they do not cause much delight. Some people wish to make a bed with their own hands more strong. In this case, the design can be made of metal.

In order for the design to have a proportional view, you will need to use profile pipe with a cross section of 20x20 mm. Length can be chosen based on personal preferences. Such pipes can be purchased in almost any construction supermarket, they are sold in the metal products department. For a fee, you can order a cutting on the desired segments. As a support frame, it is best to use a chamber box with dimensions of 32x65 mm and a metal corner of 40x40 mm.

The following should be needed from the tools:

1. Corner grinding machine small sizes.
2. The ordinary welding machine running from the network 220 V.
3. Cutting disc for working with iron, which corresponds to the size of the grinding machine.
4. Electrodes 3-4 mm.
5. Clamps for welding.
6. A hammer.
7. Cord.
8. Roulette.

Back to the category

Double bed sizes

To sleep comfortably, the design should be width from 140 to 200 cm. The recommended width is 160 cm. The optimal length of the bed is 200 cm. If the heating growth is greater than 190 cm, the length of the design will need to be 230 cm.

In this case, the design for people growth 170 cm will be manufactured. It will have the dimensions of 200x160 cm. For appearance, you will need to observe the optimal proportions in the process of load distribution and gaps between the design elements. If it is necessary to change the size, the elements will need to move relative to each other to the required distance so that the final view of the bed does not cause dissonance in sensations.

The height of the bed without a mattress is 35 cm, in sum with the height of the mattress there will be approximately 55-60 cm. The mattress can be chosen based on personal preferences, because the height can be different. For example, the mattress without a spring can be a height of 16-18 cm, and the designs with a spring are from 20 to 25 cm. On the design of the bed, the height of the mattress will not influence.

Bed backs must have optimal proportions. If the mattress is selected with dimensions of 20x200x160 cm, then the headset should be a height of approximately 102 cm, and the small back is 65 cm. Based on this, the required amount of materials is calculated.

Back to the category

Work of preparatory work

To make, you will need to purchase the following materials:

1. Profile pipe 20x20 mm.
2. Stewler from metal 32x65 mm.
3. Metal corner 40x40 mm.
4. Strip from steel 2x25 mm.
5. Square made of steel with a cross section of 10x10 mm.

If there is experience in working with metal, then the material can be purchased with the calculation of trimming and fit. If there is no experience, you will need to purchase a large amount of metal. The reason for this will be inaccuracies in the process of preparing the elements of the bed. If there is a marriage, then the design will need to remake.

Materials will be needed in such quantity:

• pipe with a cross section of 20x20 mm - 12.5 m;
• square made of steel 10x10 mm - 14 m;
• steel 2x65 mm - 11 m;
• corner of steel 40x40 mm - 4.5 m;
• strip of steel 2x25 mm - 4.5 m;
• strip of steel 4x20 mm - 6 m.

The boots and plugs of the upper part of the design will be made from the residues of the steel strips.

Back to the category

Sequencing

Connecting knot in the head and foot back.

First you need to make templates for all items. They can be made of prepared materials or wooden bars. Next, in templates, you need to cut the required amount of composite elements of the bed. Width and height have typical dimensions, therefore it will be necessary to work exclusively in length.

After the elements are prepared and measured, the components can be welded. Each stock needs to be connected at a right angle and fasten the welding clamp so that the metal does not behave during the cooling process. It is necessary to ensure that the diagonals in the rectangles have coincided with an accuracy of 1 mm. All work needs to be produced slowly, it is necessary to work thoughtfully and with a deep analysis of the result on all seams.

After the elements are connected by the method of welding, you will need to beat off the slag from the seams, after which itching all the joints, removing metal irregularities with a grinding machine. Next is made painting. After the finish painting on the touch, a feeling of a seamless surface should be created.

Back to the category

Fastening brackets

When all items are ready, you need to make brackets to fix the frames from the remains of the chaserler. To do this, use an angular machine for grinding.

After the brackets are ready, it will be needed to consolidate the design backs, boiling along the entire length of the single seam. These items will be a large load, therefore you need to perform a similar connection.

After the manufacture of the back should go to the creation of two frames. The sequence of work will be the same: the designs are connected at a right angle and are fixed with clamps, after which the diagonal is checked. At the end you need to weld the design of the joints.

Almost a third part of life, the average person spends in a dream, and from a full rest at this time depends on the activity in the wakeful state, and therefore the success in affairs and personal life. The quality of the night rest largely depends on the comfort of the position of the body during sleep, which is supposed to provide a comfortable bed.

Nowadays, in an assortment of furniture stores, you can choose almost any, even a very unexpected version of this necessary furniture subject, but for various reasons it is not always possible to purchase the model with all the parameters. Therefore, it is often the question of how to make a bed with your own hands at home, and save at the same time a decent amount.

Variety of models beds

Before choosing a model of a bed for manufacture, it will probably be useful to familiarize yourself with some of them to assess the complexity of the design and soberly weigh your capabilities. Today, the furniture designers and designers have developed a huge number of options, and many of them may well be implemented at home.

The main complexity of the independent manufacturer mainly lies in the preparation and processing of design details, as for these operations it is often necessary to have special tools. But, one way or another, to decide on the creation of this object of the furniture, it is primarily to consider some models of various levels of complexity made from different materials.

Bed with drawers

Bed equipped with drawers can be single, one-time or double. But it is especially in demand for installation in children's rooms, where there are usually a large number of toys and objects for various educational activities. This design is convenient because it is possible, without clutching the room with unnecessary furniture, create a place to store various things. Moreover, putting forward such boxes, you can immediately see all the contents, and not to delve into the debris of a massive deep cabinet, where sometimes it is difficult to find the right thing.

Bed with drawers - a great solution for the children's room

By and large, the design of this bed is not much more complicated by the usual, where free space is left under the sleeping place. The main thing is to draw up quality drawings, put the right size in them, well process all the details intended for the assembly, gently collect them and find the convenient accessories. In this case, the retractable elements should have an easy move, freely extend and move, and for this you can pick up special side guides of the mechanisms or fix small wheels at the bottom of the box.

Suspended bed

This original option of the bed is not so complicated in the manufacture, as it may seem at first glance. The only requirement that must be respected to the effective functioning of this design is the sufficiency of the free space, as the bed is calculated for swaying in a certain amplitude range.

The sleeping place itself consists of a frame - frame and lamellae, but it is necessary to take into account that all parts should be made of high-quality material and securely fastened with each other. For this design, you need to choose light wood so that it does not create too high load on the supports. This quality should also have a mattress that sometimes has an overly high unnecessary weight.

Metal bed

The bed made of metal corner, rods, stripes and reinforcements is available for execution only by the experienced welder, but this option will last for a long time without repair, and will not disturb the creak. A particularly well metal bed is suitable for a certain style of an interior, such as retro, ampir, and even modern.

Such a "artwork" is available only to the experienced master.

Stable and heavy in weight design nevertheless looks easy, almost weightless, so perfectly fit into any atmosphere and will become an element adorning it. Metal many cause negative associations due to rust, which can leave ugly spots on the mattress and bedding. It should not be afraid of this - today, with the development of technologies, lacquer and paints are developed, which will protect not only bed accessories from rusty spots, but also the metal itself from the occurrence of this unpleasant manifestation of corrosion. On such a bed, the mattress will always be ventilated and will not be fed, as the frame has sufficient rigidity and thoroughness.

Bed-cabinet transformer

The bed turning into the closet is indispensable in the cramped conditions of small apartments, and this design can also be reproduced independently by purchasing special lifting and supporting mechanisms. In this option, the sleeping place should be easily removed and mimic a cabinet or an end.

May be different in size, mimic a massive wardrobe or turn into a compact narrow drawer with a tabletop from above. The last option can be used both for a children's room and as an additional, backup bedroom - in case of arrival of guests. In addition, this design is sometimes installed in the loggia or on a warmed balcony, because in the summer it is so nice to relax in the fresh air.

Bed-Tumba - Always Ready Reserve Sleeping Place

The most difficult thing in the manufacture of a similar model is to choose the desired lifting mechanism, and, of course, to process all the details of the design, so that it is easy to install and retractable, without distortion and jamming.

Bed-podium

Another bed option that will help save place in the conditions of small areas of modern apartments - this is a podium bed. The meaning of this design is that the sleeping place does not take a single centimeter in the room, as the bed is removed during the daytime under the podium, which can be used as a useful area, for example, equipping it under the workplace.

A similar model is also not so difficult, but for the bed and the podium will need a lot of high-quality materials, and the work itself will take quite a lot of time. However, the result will exceed all the expectations, since the output will be not only a comfortable sleeping place, but also the original interior design.

In addition to these beds, from popular, frequently selectable models can be called such as design with a lifting mechanism, orthopedic frame, bunk, with a frame of wooden lamellas, a bed-sofa and others. Some of them will be discussed further in more detail, with the application of illustrated instructions for their manufacture.

Find out by studying two available options, in the special article of our portal.

We make a bed do it yourself

Double wooden bed

Wooden double bed "classic" type

This ordinary bed of standard sizes is made of natural wood, which can be processed independently, to buy on the finished form or to give it to the joinery workshop to accurate saws and processing. In order to make such a double wooden bed, the following materials will be required:

• Pine timber for the box and leg with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm, a length of 2200 mm - 15 pieces.
• Pine Stringing Board in 2000 mm long, 100 mm width, 20 mm thick - 22 pcs.
• Clay joiner or PVA for furniture.
• Self-tapping screws by 65 and 40 mm.
• Metal corners with a width of a shelf of 50 mm.

The manufactured frame is designed for a mattress of 2000 × 1600 mm in size, so the internal space must have dimensions of 2100 × 1700 mm, and when measuring at the outer edge - 2200 × 1800 mm.

Works are carried out in such a sequence:

Illustration
	Since the box for a frame of bed must have a height of 150 or 200 mm, with a width of the walls of 50 mm, the bar must be glued (3 or 4 pcs.) To do this, they are labeled with carpentry glue, bars are superimposed on each other, compress in clamps and left until complete drying.
	Next, the resulting glued billets need to be adjusted in size. So, for the assembly of the box, two side panels (kings) with a length of 2200 mm will be required, one 2100 mm - for the average longitudinal jumper, and two end tsards with a length of 1610 mm.
	In order for the corners to be a reliable lock connection, at the edges of the side, on the upper and lower bar, the blanks is measured by 50 mm - these fragments must be absorbed carefully and remove without affecting the middle bar of the panel. On the workpieces for the end sides, 50 mm is deposited on the middle bar, and then it is neatly removed. Then, the speakers of the middle parts of the side of the sides are labeled with glue and are installed in the resulting gap between the two bruises of the end panels of the box. After that, they must be squeezed in clamps and leave until complete drying.
	You can enroll differently by applying a bars dressing connection. In this case, the bars glue into the box already in the cropped form. For this, the first row of timber is laid on the smooth floor, which should form a rectangle. The length of its side sides should be 2100 mm, end - 1500 mm. The end parts of the side panels of the side panels are labeled with glue, and brings of the end sides of the box are pressed against them, and then fixed by self-draws. The corners of the rectangle are exhibited with the help of a construction kit, and is checked by measuring diagonals - they must have the same length. Next, the middle row is glued to the bottom row, it is the length of the side bars, it is 2200 mm, and the end side element is 1700 mm. Its ends are missing with glue, and it is stacked between two side brings, and then fixed. Then, the average row, except for gluing fixes to the bottom with the help of self-tales. In the last, top row, the timber has the same dimensions and is stacked in the same way as the first lowest row. The bar is glued, fastened by the "Podtay" self-taverns and leaves to dry. This method of assembly is more complicated, since in the absence of the master of the appropriate experience, the corners can go in advance.
	The next step is fixed by the middle element of the design - the jumper glued from two brucks in length in 2000 mm. Before fixing the jumper, the bed box turns over, the marking of the end sides is carried out from the inside, in order to accurately find them the middle. Jumper from below must match the box level. Then, on the bottom row of the bar of the box, in the designated places, the resistant bars are screwed with a length of 150 mm. They will serve as a support for the central longitudinal partition. For docking with these supporting elements, 50 mm from the edge is selected from the lower brusade of the jumper. The mount is made on glue and screws. As a support, a metal corner with a shelf of 50 mm can also be used - the corresponding holes for fastening to the walls of the box are drilled in it and the crossbar. The finished jumper will be the extra base for the boards, the bed box on top.
	The model in question has 4 legs in the corners - they are also comfortable to immediately fasten with self-draws or bolts now while the bed box is in an inverted state. The legs will serve the segments of the same bar of 50 × 50 mm. The legs are fixed to the design first with glue, and then with self-draws or through bolts, and additionally it is recommended to strengthen them on both sides with metal corners. The height to which the bed will be raised above the floor can be selected arbitrarily, but usually it is from 200 to 300 mm. The legs are shorter, the more stable there will be a bed, but on the other hand, a small height complicates harvesting.
	In addition, the center does not allow, an additional one or two backups of the same height must be consolidated to the middle jumper - then the design will have a higher rigidity and reliability. The middle legs supports can be fixed in different ways. An option is presented in this illustration when the legs are fixed with bolts from two sides of the jumper.
	After drying the glue in the nodes of the connection of the supports, the box of the bed is reversed again into normal position and is already installed on mounted "regular" legs.
	Further, on the side long panels of the box, lines are placed on which the timber or the board of about 30 ÷ 40 mm width, 25 ÷ 30 mm thick, will be attached. It will be a support for the subsequent mounting of overlapping boards. Supported shelves must be placed so that they stood on one level with a central jumper. Usually focus on the line of the string of the top bar of the side of the box - if everything was carried out correctly, then the overall level will be provided.
	The next step on top of the prepared support shelves stacked boards. They should not be resting in the sides of the box, otherwise there may be unpleasant symptoms during the beds. Therefore, the clearance of 4 ÷ 5 mm on each side should be held between the walls and boards.
	The flooring is not at all necessary to do solid - the boards are declined at a distance of 20 ÷ 40 mm from each other.
	Boards are fixed in three places - along the edges, to the support regiments, and in the center - to the longitudinal jumper. At each point of attachment, two 40 mm long samples are screwed. To avoid the appearance of cracks at the edges of the boards or on the shelves, which they restrain, it is recommended to pre-drill holes under the screw of the small diameter drill - 3 mm.
	After completing the installation of boards, you need to conduct a revision of all surfaces of the design. If necessary, the speakers of glue, large burgers, etc. are removed.
	Go to the finishing processing of the collected bed. First you need to bring all the surfaces to the perfectly smooth condition. For such a processing of wood, it is better, of course, to use a grinding machine of a ribbon, eccentric or vibration type, to which sandpaper paper with the desired graininess is sequentially installed, starting from 80-100, and ending 280-400.
	In the absence of a special tool, you can use the electric drill by installing the pump for grinding on it. If wood processing was produced using power tools, then after them you need to carefully inspect the product, since it is possible that in some places it is necessary to finish work manually. After the completion of grinding works, the finished bed needs to be well cleaned from dust and small sawdust, that is, to prepare for the coating.
	If the product is immediately covered with varnish, the details must first be treated with the primer. If the wood will be dumped by a verse, then it is used to use it. The coating process is performed using a brush or sprayer.
	Further, if it is planned to emphasize the factory drawing of the wood, then after drying the veil on the surface once again passed by sandpaper.
	The coating is preferably carried out not only from the outside of the bed, but also with a rear, inconspicable eye. The fact is that the veil to a certain extent is an antiseptic and is able to protect the wood from the "traditional" pests - microflora or insects.
	The next step is to cover the product with varnish. To do this, it is best to use water-based formulations, especially when the work is carried out in an apartment. Such varnishes do not have a poisonous smell, eco-friendly dry enough, and after drying, they give a pleasant matte shine. To achieve the desired appearance of the bed, you will have to apply a few thin layers of varnish. Moreover, the subsequent layers are applied only after complete grazing of the previous one.
	In the finished form, the bed finished and varnish the bed should look about in this way.
	In the breaks between bed coatings, while the next layers will be sinking, you can make a full or improvised back. In this case, the backrest panel is made of boards, and is mounted as a decorative lattice. For it, three boards width in 100 ÷ 120 mm, a length of 1600 mm, and 11 ÷ 12 pieces height in 400 ÷ 460 mm are required. The grille is also processed by sandpaper and covered in the same composition as the bed itself.
	In this model, the headboard is not fixed to the bed - it is mounted on the wall at the level of the mattress. The last step is stacked by the mattress itself - and the bed is ready for operation.

Double bed with an installed lifting mechanism

Another variant of the double bed is a model made using a chipboard. In this design, in contrast to the previous one, there are no legs, which makes it more stable. A plus of this bed can also be called the opportunity to use the closed space under the sleeping place, since the model is equipped with a lifting mechanism that allows you to easily lift the wooden frame, without removing the mattress.

The disadvantages of such a model include its massiveness that does not make it possible to install it in a small room. In addition, the chipboard cannot be called an absolutely environmentally friendly material, as it is made using binders that can often be separated into the environment toxic evaporation, which is not very unpleasant for humans.

It is necessary to take into account that choosing furniture made of chipboard, it is necessary to create conditions for efficient air ventilation in which it will be. And for the manufacture of bed details, the chipboard panels with formaldehyde emission class should be purchased.

So, to make a bed with a standard mattress size of 1800 × 2000 × 200 mm, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

• List chipboard 16 mm thick and 3500 × 1750 mm.
• Two sheets of Fiberboard with a thickness of 5 mm, standard size in 2745 × 1220 mm.
• Brew with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm, 18 m.
• The board with a thickness of 10 ÷ 15 mm, a width of 60 mm - 20 m or plywood 10 mm, in size 1525 × 1525 mm.
• Lifting mechanism with gas shock absorbers.
• Self-tapping screws, bolts.
• Metal corners.
• Fabric for plating, 1500 mm width, 5000 mm long.
• Singrytegone width of 1600 mm, length 5000 mm.
• Poropolon 2 sheet, 10 mm thick and 3000 × 1000 mm.
• Brackets for a stapler 8 ÷ 10 mm.

Preparing everything you need, you can proceed to the manufacture of structural elements.

BUT. From 16 mm chipboard is manufactured:

- headboard - 1 pcs, measuring 1080 × 2130 mm, it can be rounded or have straight angles;

- sidebar box - 2 pcs., 2330 × 350 mm;

- the end panel of the box - 1 pc., 2130 × 350 mm;

- Internal partition - 1 pc., 2010 × 280 mm.

B. Details from a bar of 50 × 50 mm, fixed in the box:

- longitudinal elements fixed on side panels - 2 pcs., Long in 2010 mm;

- The transverse part, fixed on the end panel - 1 pc., Length 1810 mm.

- 100 mm height racks - 4 pcs.

IN. Details of a bar of 50 × 50 mm for the manufacture of lifting frame:

- longitudinal elements of the internal crate - 5 pcs., 2005 mm long;

- Transverse details of the internal crate - 2 pcs., Length in 1805 mm.

G. Boiled or dried out of plywood (10 mm) lamellas size 60 × 15 × 1805 mm - 11 pcs.

D. Conduction of the bottom of the box - 2 sheets of DVP 1650 × 2330 mm.

Having made all the elements necessary for assembly design, you can proceed to the trim and assembly of parts.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	If the headboard will have a rounded shape, the template for it is first manufactured on paper, and then transferred to the chipboard and is muffled with an electric jig. It is very important to take into account the fact that the headboard should be pressed against the wall - so the design will be more rigid. Usually at the height of the floor and the walls passes a plinth having a certain width. Therefore, at the top of the center of the head of the headboard, a special support element from a bar or a piece of chipboard, having a thickness equal to the width of the plinth, is fixed. With it, it will ensure the reference to the wall. You can act differently, deleting the plot of a plinth from the place where the bed will be installed.
	Next, it makes fitting the details of the box and the head of the installation site. Then, the exhibited box panels from DSP are bonded among themselves at the corners using a bar segments or metal corners. The headwall panel is not joined yet, as it first needs to be seeded. On the fixed panels are samples of timber.
	A wide stamped lamellae laid on the chipboard, and place their location.
	The next step is the headboard bed with a foam rubber - this operation is performed using a stapler and brackets. The foam rubber is aligned, and first fixes on the front of the panel.
	Then, its edges are wrapped and shooting with brackets from the back of it.
	From above, the foam rubber is covered with a cloth selected for this. It is recommended to acquire a dense material that can repel dust.
	Work on the trim, starting from the bottom of the panel, and then the fabric is neatly stretched and fixed in the same way as the foam on the back of the head of the head.
	Now the covered back can be installed at its permanent place.
	Next, the lifting frame frame is manufactured. Its parts are collected and fixed using metal corners. All five bars are distributed at the same distance from each other, ranging from the middle of the structure. The middle bar must rely on the partition from the chipboard, fixed in the bed box. Having gathered the carcass, he temporarily assign to the side.
	Next, from the inside, and the walls of the box are scented outside. They first also with a stapler fastened with a sintepon, and then the same fabric as the headboard was previously shed.
	The next step is marked and fixed on the frame elements of the lifting mechanism.
	Further? A fitting frame is performed on the box and the place of installation of a bar on the side panels of the box is marked, to which the second side of the elements of the lifting mechanism will be fixed.
	Then, the fixation of the bar is made, and the fixed part of the lifting mechanism is screwed to it, and the design is performed. The bar is fixed on the chipboard using a 50 mm self-tapping screws. Their caps need to be dried into wood by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm.
	After that, on the frame, across the bars, with the help of screws, lamellas are fixed.
	In the folded state, the lifting mechanism looks in this way. It is located in the resulting niche between the two bars.
	On the presented illustration, you can consider a semicircular neckline made in the central partition. This space is necessary for the free raising of the frame lattice.
	Next, the design must be installed on the side panel for the convenience of further work.
	The next step is prepared by the Fiberboard sheets, which will be covered by the bottom part of the bed of the bed. This will create a full-fledged tube suitable for storing various things.
	The lifting can be carried out using the bracket or self-tapping screws of small length and diameter, but with wide hats.
	After mounting the bottom part, the bed is lowered and installed in place.
	On this photo, small wooden parts are clearly visible - racks attached to the side domestic bar. Such elements are installed not only in the middle part of the side bar, but also in the corners of the box. They are mounted at one height, and are necessary for the fierce support for the mobile frame when it is in the folded state.
	For the convenience of raising the frame, along with the mattress laid on it, stitched loops or peculous handles are fixed in its front. They are screwed with two or four self-taverns with wide hats to the end bruus frame.
	The bed with the mattress in the open state looks in this way.

Single bed

This section presents the design of a single bed, which can be used for an adult or adolescent, as it has quite suitable dimensions. As for any object of furniture installed in the bedroom or children's room, for this product you need to choose high-quality and environmentally friendly material.

single bed

Dimensions in these drawings are indicated in inches, 1 inch \u003d 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm. Knowing this ratio, it will be easy to translate the presented dimensions into familiar to domestic masters.

This table features the process of manufacturing this simple bed model:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	For the manufacture of this bed model, the following materials and parts will be required, which are listed in accordance with the scheme shown in the illustration: - A - legs. For the manufacture of these parts it will take a timing segment 2 × 2 "(50.8 × 50.8 mm). The height of the bar for the headboard - 33½ "(851 mm) - 2 pcs., For squinting-17¼" (438 mm) - 2 pcs.; - B - the back and front walls of the bed box, as well as the wall located in the package, is made from the board with a cross section 1 × 9¼ "(24.5 × 245 mm), the length of the side elements is 75½" (1918 mm) - 2 pcs, Flying - 39 "(991 mm) -1 pcs. - C - longitudinal beams for the flooring, made from a cross section of 2 × 1 "(50.8 × 25.4 mm) 75¾" (1910 mm) - 2 pcs.; - D - overlapping boards 1 × 4 "(25.4 × 102 mm) and length - 39" (990.6 mm) - 13 pcs.; - E - Lower part of the head of 1 × 6 "(25.4 × 152 mm) - 1 pc. and the upper part of the cross section 1 × 9¼ "(25.4 × 235 mm) - 1 pc., Length of both parts - 39" (990.6 mm). In the future, a figure back will be cut out of the board prepared for the upper element.
	The first step is made of design details and are collected in separate sections, from which the bed will be mounted. The most complex part of the detail is the upper part of the back, which is not only decorated with a curvilinear form, but must have a perfectly treated upper and lower edge. The specified dimensions are applied to the prepared board, with the help of an improvised circulation, the rounded upper part of the back is determined. You can make the so-called pattern (molding) on \u200b\u200bpaper, and then transfer the shape to the board. Then, it is cut with an electric jigsaw, processing edges with a mill and grinding with a grinder or manually. It is very important that the surfaces are brought to the perfectly smooth state, as they will not cover with a cloth or other material. In addition to this part, the bottom panel is muted for the head of. It is much simpler to figure it out with it, since the most difficult task will be smoothly sprinkled, and then they are well handled.
	Then, from a bar with a cross section of 50.8 × 50.8 mm, legs 851 mm high are cut. They also need to handle and clean it well. After that, on the sides of the bars that will be turned inside, markup is made to connect them with crossbars.
	So that the headboard assembly was neat and had durable compounds, you can act on the scheme represented. To do this, 2 ÷ 3 holes for each of the elements are drilled in bars and end sides of the boards. Further, 80 mm long and diameter of 8 mm are prepared. Then the wrenches and joined end parts of the parts are lubricated with glue. Further, the ducts are neatly driven through the bar into the transverse parts of the head of the head of the head of the head. If the process is carried out in this way, the places of compounds from the outer side of the legs are closed with a wooden rail, which is fixed on glue, and for the period of its drying, the leg is compressed in clamps.
	Upon the condition of gluing closing decorative rails, landing grooves are left from the outside of the legs for the side panels of the bed (CARG). In this case, they are fixed on the side of the legs, which is the most durable compound. If it is not planned to be installed on the leg with additional, covering the lining dump connections, then the holes in the bars are drilled non-cross, but only from the inside, deepening them by 25 ÷ 30 mm. Then, as well as with the help of glue and the wrenches, the head of the headboard is connected. This method of assembly is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but with a neat approach and accurate work - quite performed.
	Next, the legs and the panel are made for footing. The height of the bar must be 438 mm for them, and the size of the panel 235 mm wide and 990.6 mm in length. The connection of the details of the style is carried out in the same way as in the head of the head of the selection, that is, with the help of the wrens and glue.
	The next step is connected by the side panels (tsargi) with sections of the head of the head and squinting. They can be consolidated in different ways. The most common option is metal corners. They screw themselves to the kings and legs.
	In addition to metal corners, there are special details for connecting these parts, called bed tie or hooks. With their help, the side panels are hung on the stands of the head of the head and squinting. If hooks are used to connect, the design will be folded.
	The next step towards the kings you need to fix the support shelves or elements made from a bar or docks. They are fixed along the lower edge of the sidewall.
	The glue is applied to the bar, then the item is aligned on the king and presses it with clamps. When the glue is completely dry, the details are screwed by self-drawing.
	The next step on the bars attached to the tsargi are laid out and prepared boards are aligned.
	When fixing boards-lamellaes on the bars, the entire design acquires the necessary rigidity. Each of the boards is screwed in two self-draws on both sides. Holes for the self-samples are scheduled to drill (3 mm).

The above bed variants can be considered the most accessible to independent manufacture. In order for the work to be productive, it is necessary to prepare well for it, equipping the home workshop with the necessary tools and high-quality material. By completing these conditions and producing all technological operations neatly and not in a hurry, it is quite possible to get a high-quality piece of furniture, which will serve for many years.

Video: Master Class of Bed Manufacturing do it yourself

Double bed with elevator and two compartments for things (1400x2000) Make themselves

Double bed with elevator and two compartments for things (1400x2000) We do.

It has been an understanding that sleeping on the unfavorable sofa-corner is no longer there is no strength. The sofa is old (8 years old !!!), the filler was rushed in places, the back feels solid irregularities and hurts in the morning.

To begin with, I decided to pass with my wife - to look at the store and fairs bed + orthopedic mattress. With the size of the bedroom, it was determined - 1400 x 2000. It is also suitable for subsequent layout of the room.

Sleeping set (bed, wardrobe, bedside tables and other) does not fit us, because The bedroom is small - 9m 2. It remains - just a bed.

Prices were different - from 6500 rubles. (LDSP + Plywood) up to 50,000 and higher.

I liked something similar:

only without burning. ( Soft boards without sharp corners + Easy ... In short, I liked it!)

The price of such a bed (without lifting mechanism) is about 15,000 rubles. You can put an elevator in the bed you like (also + 12000). TOTAL - 27,000 rubles.

The lifting mechanism was needed, because The apartment is small and the presence of additional compartments for different things - the question is solved.

I decided to make the bed myself (there is no experience, but I can work with the tool).

The orthopedic foundation was found in 4500 rubles.

Transformation system - Elevator: 1200 rub.

Sketch sketched, thought out - how everything will be arranged. Specked approximately lumber and drove to search for sidewalls and legs. ( Important: There are no whole boards required. You need to buy a tipped board (windowsill or something like that). Not knowing this, bought a gender with a veneer under gluing (thickness - 35 mm, width - 150 mm) at the rate of three boards to the side. For the legs took a bar 100 x 100 mm. When buying, all the boards and the timber fell in size.

The house picked up and cleaned (glue joinery based on PVA) three boards: Long side - 2010 mm, short side - 1420 + 35 + 35 \u003d 1490 mm. (Previously figured, with what gaze the gas elevator works - about 10 mm from the lifting plank to the bed wall, to which the gas lift is mounted. Heza 1420mm). 35mm - the thickness of the board.

The minus of the sexual board is that it has a small curvature - "Propeller" (take the windowsill - he is direct). For this, he chose and customized - what boards how to stand.

As a result, I picked up and cleaned 4 boards. Board size: L1 \u003d L2 \u003d 2010mm, L3 \u003d L4 \u003d 1490mm.

Because The orthopedic base relies on 4 angle and the longitudinal plane in the middle, glued another board, which will serve as a support for the base. L5 \u003d 2010mm.

The size of the legs: L1 \u003d L2 \u003d L3 \u003d L4 \u003d 450mm. The bar was raw and on this slightly cramped while Sal. But the process and quality did not affect the process. It is important to give a tree to dry. The bed did not rush, therefore it was to dry up the legs.

Board the bed had to round. It was done in two receptions: 1 - electric jigsaw at an angle of 45 °; 2 - ribbon grinder (on the eye).

Next, all sides of the bed were harvested with the help of corners and screws. The difficulty was that three boards were almost straightforward, and one of the parties (it was assumed to put this side to the wall) was a "prailler". Understand the "direct" sides first.

Coming out at the 4th corner, we have such a curvature:

The boards with an effort moved into the size and brought around with a long screw in the end of the board:

At the bottom of this corner, too, not all is well:

Due to the fact that the bottom of the board because of the "propeller" led to the side - the wedge was put. From the outside, the protruding board is simply cut off. The coals rounded on the same technology: (visible holes for fastening legs)

Since metal corners are found in the corners inside the base of the bed, there was a need for additional treatment of legs (belt grinding groove):

The holes fastening the legs were measured and drilled. The height of the legs is the same as the width of the sidewall. Offset feet down 60mm.

Trial setting of legs:

All screws in their places: (from above there is a place for an orthopedic base + Framer for the stability of the mattress)

Slices of linoleum were glued on the ends of the legs (top and bottom). Bottom to do not scratch the floor, and from above for orthopedic base:

After gluing the linings, I was punctured and wrapped the legs upholstered material, the stapler secured the edge. Cut holes for fastening screws:

Put the bed and figured how the orthopedic base will rise:

Approximately this will be opened on the elevators. Under the middle of the base, there is no boards-support. It shifts down like legs - by 60 mm.

We proceed to tosing the sides of the bed. First, Foam S-10mm:

This is the bottom side of the bed board. Foam rubber comes from the edge of the board, because Inside the base there will be slats to support the plywood base of the boxes. The foam rubber is glued to the sides.

This is one of the corners. The foam rubber turns, clipped and nailed with a stapler.

From above, the foam rubber is nailed with a nasky about 3-4 mm.

I joking the foam, the insertion was used in place and on the eye (there will not be noticeable):

Next comes upholstery with leatherette. Without glue, just with a smoothing hand. The skin substitute was bought quality. To the touch soft and, as it turned out, quite wear-resistant.

So the board was separated around the legs. View from below: (this is just that leg, in a corner curve. It is thickening and there is a wooden insertion).

From below, the leatherette was filled with naughty, without a sovereign. The width of the width is equal to the width of the rail, which will keep the plywood bottom. From above - saved with a graciousness for beauty. Corners have not yet invented how to start ...

Corners started and secured. There would be skin, can be pulled out beautifully with small folds.

So looks outside:

Went all the corners. It turned out gently and rounded. At this stage glued a strip of linoleum on a plaque.

Untrect corners of the middle board uphole leaving residues:

I check the tight fit of all four legs and boards to the orthopedic base. ( Note: The middle board is difficult to adjust from once. Do not rush to screw all the screws in the corners, arrive at 2-4 and check the foundation of the base).

The next stage is a rack for plywood bottom. On the entire inner perimeter screwed the rails with a cross section of 25x40. In the rail of holes for self-tapping screws to drill in a large size.

Son Andrei helps. He lubricates self-tapping screws in the soap, puts in a rack and beats a hammer to make a touchscore to the board. And I just twist:

Almost done…

The entire perimeter from the inside is baked by the rail.

Recovering the eye, installed gas elevators for the base:

The closest to the edge of the bolt turned out between the 1st and 2nd base lamellas ( Note: It's far because when opening, the base rested in the legs and did not rise).

Not working option:

It was necessary to move as close as possible to the legs themselves gas-elevators. Iply, the working version.

Install the gas shock absorbers yourself.

Then I purchased the Fanoire s \u003d 6mm on one side polished. Cut from the place and put on top on the rail. And even partially filled the boxes. Places - wagon.

Since the roller turns out on top of the side slightly overlaps the orthopedic base, then in the lowered state, the base holds and does not take off up.

Gas shock absorbers are selected depending on the weight of the orthopedic base + mattress. My gas shock absorbers are calculated on 80 kg.

Ordered the mattress, and finally brought him. From above moisture-proof case:

The mattress lies high and visible a gap between the mattress and the base.

OUTPUT: It is necessary to move the legs and the middle boards-support is not 60 mm, but by 90 mm. It will give the opportunity to lie on the mattress denser in the base.

Raise bed. It is not necessary to hold - everything is balanced. Up rises yourself.

In the raised state, the mattress is slightly shifted under its weight down.

The mattress displacement can be eliminated by the installation of the limiter to the orthopedic base:

Everything. Bed is ready. The estimated cost of materials (without a mattress): 9 - 10 thousand rubles. The mattress was taken dear due to problems with his back.

Want to change the interior in the apartment? The best solution will be the purchase of furniture. Organize a comfortable place to sleep with a new good bed.

Before starting an assembly of a single bed, choose a spacious place and place all components separately from each other. Check out the name and role of each thing in the box. So you can immediately find the desired detail. Shipping surface with packaging cardboard to avoid damage and pollution of the floor.

In the process of assembly, you do not need to sharpen the screws into the details strongly. In case of error, it will be difficult to disassemble the design. We recommend first to collect the continuine frame and only then, subject to its complete visual similarity with the instruction, start tightening the entire fastener.

Before starting work, the sidewalls and other details of a special plastic tape should be placed if it is provided in the configuration. In the supply of some models, it is already attached to the edges of each element, which significantly simplifies work.

Single Bed Assembly Instructions

Many prefer to install everything independently without the help of a specialist. This approach saves a considerable amount of money. Assembling a single bed - the process is quite simple, because any model is similar to the structure of the frame and reference elements.

To start work, you will need a number of standard tools:

• Screwdriver;
• Screwdriver Set;
• Spanners.

To each product is the factory assembly and operation guide. Making any action, repel from the official instructions for assembling a single bed. The standard model of this product has 2 meters in length and 90 centimeters in width.

To start, place the details. Then the installation of accessories should be installed for finishing and headboard. The package of most beds includes the ready-made framework to which the base and crossbar must be attached.
At the final stage, set the backs of the bed and install the mattress. If there are additional storage boxes - collect them separately and set the resulting result inside the frame.

Single bed assembly scheme

The box of each bed has an identical design that does not depend on the shape of the support elements or the presence of additional mechanisms. Perform the installation of parts is pretty easy if there is a good single bed assembly scheme before your eyes.

Consider the most described above the process of installing sleeping furniture. The bed legs must be assembled separately. This is done at the initial stage. We advise you to immediately separate the elements for the left and right side, so as not to get confused.

In the configuration, find the European innovints (the other name is the confirm). In each of them, small holes should be made: diameter - 5-8 millimeters, depth - 60 millimeters maximum. To screw down the EuroBrips, you will need a screwdriver with a bat in the form of a hexagon rod. All legs must be installed on the confirm.

Upon completion of the installation of the frame, it remains only to attach all the side elements of the bed housing. Their installation is performed with the help of ero-coats, which are screwed into the side boards and self-tapping screws, screwed into the base legs of the bed.

If you want to increase the strength of the design, we advise you to purchase additional bolts for tightening the furniture design. They combine well support with sidewalls, preventing wear from wear.

A single bed with a standard frame can always be independently adjusted by the level of lifting. To do this, make small cuts on the bottom of the lower part, which can later be twisted to the desired level.

The easiest way is to combine two beds purchased in the store. For this from the beds remove the wheels. On the legs of the upper bed and on the back of the bottom make the sampling step, as shown in Fig. 1. For stability from the steel band, four lining are manufactured on the screws to the legs of beds at their docking. The staircase is hung on the top bed.

For older children, they replace the podatatural frame, remove lateral fences, and instead they put panels from boards up to two meters long, connecting two backs of the bed. Boards are fixed on screws. If a child sleeping on the upper bed, restless, you can fix an extra rail from the outside at an altitude of 150- 200 mm above the side of the bed.

The staircase is made of wood, usually from a bar of 20-40 mm. For the racks, two vehicles are cut off with a length of 1.5 m, for steps - bars of 400 mm. Step step - no more than 250 mm. The steps are fixed to the racks using steel corners of 30x30 mm, in which the holes are drilled under the screws. For suspension, the stairs make hooks made of steel strip and fasten them with screws to the upper end of the staircase (Fig. 2).

Furniture prices are currently "biting" because we offer you to make a two-story bed. For her, there will be a thickness of 15 mm thick, plywood - 10-12 mm or just waste chipboard. You define the sizes of the bed depending on the room in the room, in fig. 3 shows only the main dimensions. If necessary, such a bed can be easily divided into two.

First, write the blanks of racks and end panels. In these items, make grooves for docking. Side panels bed - up to 2 meters long. If there are no boards of such a length, the side panels of the beds can be made composite, as shown in Fig. four.

Docking places Wrap in a dural in a thickness of 1-2 mm or a brass band that goes into the lock. Additional panels can be increased the height of the beds of beds above the mattress.

Bed color enamel paint or cover with a mourn and furniture varnish. It would be good to paint it with several colors - a bed to look more fun. Self-adhesive film or wallpaper are suitable.

Build construction Start from the bottom, all panels and legs are connected to each other on specially suited grooves. The podatatable plate rests in the lower tier on the plug-in legs, and in the upper - on metal corners attached by screws to the side and end slabs of the panels. Plates Install the collected bunk bed frame. Put mattresses from Singrytegone, Wat, Dry Grass. We recommend putting two boxes for bedding, their dimensions in Fig. 5. The bottom of the boxes by visiting the organote or plywood, make it the wheels from broken plastic toys.

To assemble such a bed, neither glue, nor nails, only a hammer and a screwdriver.