Palm tree dropped leaves what to do. What to do if dracaena leaves have fallen? Feeding dracaena after transplantation

Typical diseases of dracaena and their effective treatment with an explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.

Why do dracaena drop leaves? Causes may be the following: the plant goes through a period of acclimatization after purchase, a transplant was carried out with soil replacement, which violated the integrity of the root system, and the irrigation mode was incorrect.

Only a purchased plant must undergo a period of acclimatization under the new conditions. Dracaena is no exception. The light level in the new room, humidity and air temperature - all this can affect the well-being of the flower. No need to worry if dracaena is only purchased and it has lowered leaves. For prevention, you need to inspect the plant carefully. If there are no pests on it, the root system is in order, the trunk does not rot - there is no need to take drastic measures. Experts recommend not replanting the flower within 1 month after purchase. After this period, transplant by transshipment and strictly observe the rules for caring for dracaena. As practice shows, all dracaena drop leaves after the purchase. This is a normal occurrence. In a healthy flower, only the crown, that is, young leaves, will look up.

Dracaena dropped leaves immediately after transplantation. This indicates a violation of the root system of the flower, namely, very thin roots that form a spider web at the bottom of the pot. They are involved in plant nutrition and provide the plant with water. It is not recommended to transplant dracaena in a complete replacement of the soil. She is more likely to transship in a larger pot. Thus, the root system will not be injured.

However, if the transplant has already been carried out and the dracaena has lowered the leaves, while its lower leaves can turn yellow intensively, the following steps must be performed: spray the flower with a cyclone (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water) and place it under the greenhouse or a spacious cap. Leaves should not touch the walls of the greenhouse. At the same time, watering is significantly reduced. Before the next watering, the ground in the pot should completely dry (you can 1 time in 2-3 weeks). On the contrary, it is necessary to spray the flower very often with ordinary water in order to maintain high humidity under the greenhouse. The number of sprayings depends on the room temperature. The colder the less often. Cycron can be used only 1 time per week. At the first watering, the cyclone must be added to the water for irrigation. This stimulates the growth of the root system. After a transplant with a violation of the root system, dracaena lacks moisture. At the same time, intensive watering will lead to decay of the root system. The plant will replenish the lack of moisture through the crown. That is why in a greenhouse they maintain high humidity.

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Reason: Wrong watering mode. In the first case, the amount of moisture is simply not enough for the plant to maintain normal leaf turgor. In the second - there is too much moisture, which led to the decay of the root system. Through damaged roots, the plant also does not receive enough moisture. Increasing the number of irrigations will not solve the problem.

If dracaena lowered leaves due to lack of moisture, what should I do? It is necessary to place the flower under the greenhouse and conduct regular spraying. It is impossible to sharply increase the number of irrigation, as this will harm the roots. Keep the plant under the greenhouse for 3-5 days. Watering the flower should be plentiful, but only after the earth coma is completely dry. Water from the pan must be removed.

Dracaena gets an excess of moisture. As a result, the root system does not cope with an excess of fluid and begins to rot. Damaged roots no longer absorb moisture from the ground, and therefore dracaena lowers the leaves. What to do? First of all, normalize watering. Next, you need to carefully, without violating the integrity of the root system, remove the dracaena from the pot by the barrel. Inspect the roots. If the root system is light yellow or white, but not brown, it is healthy. The plant is returned back to the pot and reduce watering. Watering should be plentiful, but only after the soil has completely dried in a pot.

If the dracaena lowered the leaves and its roots are soaked, flabby and have an unhealthy shade, this indicates rotting. Damaged roots are removed. The plant is transplanted into a new, special, slightly moist soil. Dracaena is placed under a greenhouse. Watering is minimized, and spraying, on the contrary, is speeded up. Can be added to spray water for cyclone. The plant is removed from the greenhouse when it begins to drive out new leaves.

Why do dracaena dry the tips of leaves? Reasons: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime is violated, heavy soil.

Dracaena is a light-loving flower, and therefore its tips of the leaves very often turn yellow due to a lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown under indoor conditions, the tips of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination with an energy-saving lamp up to 12 hours. The flower must be placed at the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows do not fit the flower.

You noticed that the dracaena looks bad, the tips of its leaves are drying. What to do in such cases? It is necessary to pay attention to the watering mode. Perhaps the plant is waterlogged. As a result, its root system rots, leaves do not get enough moisture through diseased roots, and therefore their tips dry. Dracaena is watered only after the soil has completely dried in a pot. Watering in this case is carried out abundant, so that the water out into the pan through the drainage holes. Water is immediately removed from the pan. Otherwise, the bottom of the pot will not dry out, the roots will rot. You can not put a pot of dracaena on wet expanded clay. To check the condition of the root system, the plant is carefully removed from the pot. Healthy roots will be light. Regular spraying will help the flower. You can add cyclone or epin to the water for spraying once a week.

Dracaena dry the tips of the leaves, if the room is low humidity. For this, frequent spraying of the flower is carried out, a humidifier is placed next to it. During the heating season, do not place the plant next to heating appliances.

Dracaena does not grow, new leaves grow deformed, stems are thinned and extended. Reason: the plant lacks sunlight. Perhaps the flower is in the back of the room where the light does not penetrate, or the length of daylight is shortened due to the onset of autumn-winter. Experts recommend placing dracaena near windows on the south or southeast side of the house, but with mandatory shading from midday heat. To diffuse direct sunlight on the window, just hang a transparent curtain. In autumn and winter, it is recommended that the dracaena be illuminated with an artificial light lamp (fluorescent or a special phytolamp). In total, the duration of daylight hours for the successful development of leaflets should be 12-14 hours.

With the onset of autumn-winter (from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dracaena dormancy period, upon the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, reduce the temperature of the plant (up to +17 ... + 18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and feeding are not carried out. During the resting period, the dracaena slows its growth, and therefore, in conditions of insufficient illumination, it does not expel new, deformed leaves, its branches do not thin out.

Due to its tropical appearance, dracaena decorates the home interior and is widely used in the design of office premises. The plant is considered unpretentious and resistant to disease. But if you notice problems when growing this "palm", you need to respond urgently. First you need to accurately diagnose the disease, and then immediately proceed to the treatment of the disease.

Optimal home conditions for growing dracaena

Dracaena is a beautiful tropical plant native to Africa, Asia and South America. Externally, the plant looks like a palm tree, but in fact it is not, but belongs to the asparagus family.

In nature, you can find multi-meter specimens with lignified trunks, long wide leaves of green color or with stripes of different shades.

In total, there are about 150 species of plants. The most popular are Dragon, Fragrant, Massangeana, Marginata (bordered), Deremskaya, Bent, Sandera (lucky bamboo), etc.

Varieties of dracaena - photo gallery

Dracaena Dracaena has variegated leaf color Dracaena Dragon has as sharp as teeth of a legendary animal leaves Dracaena Bent leaves are bent upwards It is believed that Dracaena Sandera, or lucky bamboo, attracts luck Dracaena Massangeana has a strong tree trunk
Dracaena Marginata more than other species resembles a palm tree

Knowing the features of the growing conditions, it is easy to avoid the disease dracaena:

Dracaena diseases can be fungal, bacterial or viral.

We diagnose infectious diseases - table

Symptom	Care Error	Disease
Round stains of brown hues appear on the stem and leaves, later fungal spores form in their place and the lesion site turns black.	Fungal spores got into the soil, excess moisture	Alternariosis
The tips of the leaves dry out, spots with black dots appear inside.	Excessive watering, cold room, heavy soil	Phyllosticosis
Oblong spots are beige, yellow with a red or brown edging, a green coating is possible, the leaves quickly turn yellow and dry.	Wrong watering regime, infection in the ground	Heterosporosis
Spots of various shapes, brown stripes, deformation of young shoots.	Weakened immunity due to improper conditions	Spotted wilting
Yellow stripes on the leaves and moist brown plaque (rot) at the tips, ulcers on the petioles and stems.	Heavy soil, waterlogged soil, high alkali content in the substrate	Bacteriosis

Most dracenes are susceptible to fungal diseases. The most common of these are alternariosis and phylosticosis. As a rule, the disease occurs with high air humidity and excess moisture in the soil. Also, the cause of the disease is spores of fungi that could be in the soil or were introduced from the outside. For example, unsterilized garden equipment that has previously come into contact with an infected plant can become a carrier of an infectious disease.

If dracaena is transplanted into heavy garden soil, it is often and plentifully watered with running unsteady water, with a high degree of probability this will lead to a bacterial disease. Of all the species of dracaena, Dracaena is most susceptible to bacteriosis.. This beauty is especially popular with amateur gardeners for the colorful leaves and the difference in their colors. However, these leaves are also often chosen by bacteria and fungus.

Professional gardeners note that dracaena is quite resistant to viral diseases. But still, rarely does a flower strike a spotted wilt. This virus can infect a plant in which immunity is already weakened. For example, immunity is reduced if the flower suffers for a long time from improper care or is damaged by insect pests. With a viral infection, dracaena stops growing and begins to fade.

Dracaena diseases - photo gallery

With phyllosticosis, the tips of the leaves dry. With alternariosis, the leaves may become brown spots. Spotted wilting leads to the fact that the plant can rot.

Dracaena insects - table

Symptoms	Pest	Treatment
On the inner side of the leaves are dark (red) spots entangled in cobwebs; when the tick multiplies, white sticky plaque and white larvae appear on the leaves, trunk (similar to white sticks).	Wash sheets with hot soapy water (50 ° C), treat with acaricide. Repeat the procedure after 7 days
The sheet is covered with a silver film, black dots, similar to scratches, form inside the sheet; a sticky coating appears, the sheet bends and dries.	Thrips	Spray three times with an insecticide (Decis) with an interval of 1-2 weeks
Withered dry foliage, the inside is covered with sticky mucus, beige and brown swollen spots inside the leaf plate.	Shield	Wash leaves with soapy water and spray with an insecticide (Fitoverm or Intavir)
White plaque, similar to the accumulation of cotton buds or white sticks, is located in large groups on the leaves and sinuses, the leaves dry and deform, covered with sticky colorless drops.	Mealybug	Remove insects with soapy water, treat twice with an insecticide with an interval of 2 weeks
Leaves turn yellow, curl, dry out, sticky coating, a lot of white dots on the underside of the leaf and stems (aphid larvae can also be yellow, green or black, depending on the species).	Aphid	Spray with insecticides up to 3 times with an interval of 2 weeks

Pests of indoor plants - photo gallery

The leaf is covered with a silver film with black dots inside. The mealybug looks outwardly like a cluster of cotton swabs. Aphids look like white specks. The scabbard forms beige, brown swollen spots. The spider mite weaves a web

We solve problems

The health problems of dracaena can be completely different. Let's try to figure out what needs to be done in each case. Let's start with the leaves.

If dark spots appear on the leaves, perhaps the plant suffers from excessive watering and stagnation of water in the pan. It is necessary to check the condition of the roots of the plant.

If the roots of the plant are completely rotted, the trunk of the dracaena becomes soft. This phenomenon may occur as a result of frequent and abundant watering of the soil. The plant is unlikely to be able to cure. Recommended temperature for healthy plant growth is from 16 to 25 ° C.

Rotting trunk of dracaena may be the result of frequent watering

If the trunk froze and became soft

Staying for a long time in drafts, on the street or in a room where the air temperature is below 18 degrees, dracaena freezes.

If the top is frozen, you need to cut it to a healthy trunk

At the same time, the trunk of the plant can still remain alive (firm and hard to the touch), and the leaves become limp and lowered. They can’t be saved. If the top of the dracaena dropped, you need to rejuvenate the trunk:

Cut off the crown with a clean knife until the beginning of the living (dense) tissue. Discard the top, and sprinkle the place of the cut on the trunk with crushed coal.
Place the pot with the plant in a sunny place in a warm room (temperature 22–25 ° C). Eliminate the possibility of drafts.
Pour the flower with a complex fertilizer diluted half as much as indicated in the instructions.
Every week, spray the trunk and soil with a growth stimulator for plants.
Observe the correct watering regime and wait for the dracaena to recover and give side kidneys.

If the tip is broken

What to do if the crown of the dracaena is broken and a healthy long trunk remains:

If the trunk is too long or crooked

There are times when the dracaena is rapidly growing: the trunk grows in height quickly, but in itself is thin and not strong enough. This can happen if the dracaena is completely satisfied with the conditions of her detention, but she is standing in a poorly lit place. For example, the trunk quickly becomes thin and long in dracaena Ocaylennaya and Deremskaya.

No need to rush to say goodbye to your favorite plant, because one can be done in one of these situations. Dracaena can be performed anti-aging pruning and divide the trunk into several parts:

How to treat Dracaena from lesions - details

To combat fungal diseases, the flower must be carefully treated with a fungicide. It is also advisable to transplant the plant and replace the infected soil with sterilized soil.

The use of fungicides in fungal diseases

For treatment, it is recommended to use a solution of Fundazole in the proportions of 10 grams per 500 ml of water. Spray the infected tree once every 2 weeks, repeat the procedure three times. An alternative to Fundazole can be the treatment of a sick plant with Topaz or another drug that contains copper. All procedures are carried out strictly according to the instructions and in a well-ventilated area.

Fundazole is used for any fungal infections of plants.

For the prevention of fungal diseases of dracaena, it is necessary to avoid overmoistening of the soil, cool and dark rooms, contact with untreated garden tools.

Viral infections and bacterial diseases of dracaena are currently considered incurable. Unfortunately, a diseased plant must be destroyed so as not to infect other indoor flowers.

Transplantation into sterile soil

With fungal diseases or with the development of root rot from waterlogging or freezing of an earthen coma, the roots begin to rot in the plant, fungal spores multiply in the soil. To get rid of them, dracaena needs to be transplanted into sterile soil.

Procedure:

Pull the flower out of the pot, completely free the root system from contaminated soil under running water.
With a clean knife, cut off rotten roots (they will be soft to the touch) to healthy parts and treat with Fitosporin solution (dilute the paste according to the instructions).
Place the finished substrate for dracaena in a heated oven for 10 minutes; for sterilization, the temperature regime should be set to 200 degrees. Cool.
To restore and build up the root system, choose a smaller pot for the flower (3 cm in diameter and less than the previous height). Add a layer of expanded clay, sterilized soil and plant dracaena in the usual way.

How to use insecticides

Leaves of dracaena are attacked by a scab, a spider mite and other pests, especially if the flower is in a cool room with dry air.

Actellik - one of the most popular insecticides. Aktara has a hazard class 3 (moderately dangerous for humans). Fitoverm is considered the least dangerous drug from pests.

As a rule, treatment with folk remedies helps in the fight against spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, and scabies and thrips are destroyed after treatment with insecticides.

Green soap helps in the care of dracaena

Resuscitation of Dying Dracaena

If the dracaena has been ignored for a long time and already has a dying appearance, it is still worth trying to save it.

If the bottom of the plant has rotted

With frequent and abundant watering, the roots rot in the dracaena, and later the trunk and the top rot. This situation can be called hopeless, the plant can only be thrown away. In rare cases, the leaves and part of the trunk may not have time to suffer, then you need to try to save the crown and root it like an apical stem:

With a sharp sharp knife, cut off the apical shoot with part of the trunk (healthy and strong). The top should have a healthy appearance: the leaves are dense, and the trunk is solid. Make a cut perpendicular to the trunk, sprinkle the place of cut with crushed coal.
Leave the resulting stalk in the air for two hours, so that the cut point is slightly dry.
Place the handle in a transparent glass with settled water at room temperature and add a root stimulant, for example, Kornevin. Dilute half as much as indicated in the instructions.
Put a glass with a handle on a sunny windowsill.
As necessary (if it blooms), change the water in a glass, add.
When roots more than 5 cm appear, plant the dracaena in a small pot, deepening the stem with roots 2 cm into the sterilized soil.

If the top is dry

If the dracaena has not been watered for a long time, for example, during a long vacation, the plant can lose all the leaves from a lack of moisture, and the growth point itself can dry out.

Drying of the growth point is irreversible and requires trimming of dracaena

In this case, there is still a chance to save the plant. For this:

First of all, the dracaena needs to arrange “bath procedures”. In order to wet the earthen lump well and evenly and revitalize the root system, the flower pot should be placed in a basin with standing warm water for half an hour (water should be at room temperature).
The dried-up top should be cut with a sharp knife and discarded, treat the cut site with activated powdered charcoal and wait for the side (sleeping) kidneys to wake up.
Think about the height at which to trim the trunk so that the plant is aesthetically pleasing.
Spray the flower once a week with a plant growth stimulator, for example, Epin.
Watering should be carried out moderate once a week, while twice a month to introduce complex fertilizers for dracaena.
Put the pot with the plant 2 meters from the solar window so that the scattered rays of the sun fall on the plant.
A month later, dracaena should appear new leaves from the side buds.

When caring for and rehabilitating the plant, observe the following rules:

The beginning flower grower does not have enough experience and intuition for growing indoor plants, he acquires it most often by trial and error. However, it is possible to avoid trouble using some basic rules when choosing a plant and first acquaintance with it.

When buying dracaena or another plant, find out its full Latin name. Acquiring a new unknown plant, many are not interested in its agricultural technology, features, do not know the correct botanical name. Knowing the correct botanical name, you can determine the specific features of a particular species.
Excessive shading or bright light can harm your dracaena. First of all, you should choose the right place for the plant. To do this, find out how the plant relates to sunlight. In addition, which is very important, a plant that tolerates sunlight well must be accustomed to it gradually. This is due to the peculiarities of plant maintenance prior to purchase - in stores they rarely observe the light regime necessary for a particular species.
For most species of plant dracaena, drafts are fatal. When choosing a plant, consider this fact.
Overfilling or excessive dryness can be extremely harmful to the plant. Watering is of great importance. You always need to know what the needs of the plant you bought are. In addition, watering should be carried out carefully, negligence leads to unpleasant consequences. For a number of species, a necessary condition for a healthy existence in the apartment is a constant daily spraying.
Be careful when feeding the plant. It is very important to understand how much nutrient input is needed for the plant. Mistakes in feeding can cause the plant to die or die.
Consider the individual needs of the plant to the soil mixture. When transplanting, the main mistake is the incorrectly selected soil mixture. Sometimes a transplant is started unnecessarily, at the wrong time. Often too large dishes are taken, which leads to acidification of the soil. Most plants require good drainage, which some do not pay attention to. Plants brought from Holland often do not undergo proper control by the appropriate structures, as a result of which they can carry various hazardous pests on themselves or in the substrate. Therefore, it is advisable to transplant the purchased plant with the replacement of the substrate and a careful examination of the roots.
Need to crop? Crop! Lovers - gardeners often pity their plant, are afraid to cut it. Pruning is necessary for a number of crops; if it is not carried out, the plant grows, ceases to grow and bloom.

Symptoms of care mistakes and possible causes.

The upper leaves retain elasticity, but turn yellow: It is caused, as a rule, by a high content of calcium in the soil - in those plants that cannot tolerate lime, or by the hardness of water for irrigation.

The leaves lose their luster and look lifeless: The probable cause is too much light; another cause may be a red spider mite. Even healthy green leaves may look faded if not washed.

Leaf discoloration (chlorosis): The leaves discolor and turn yellow, the veins remain green. This usually happens with a lack of iron and magnesium. Both elements are needed to keep the leaf green. Irrigation with water containing a lot of calcium leads to such a deficiency: calcium binds iron in the soil. You can fix this by starting to use iron chelates or brown algal extract and pour softened water.

Leaves discolor until they become transparent: This is due to a lack of nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary, in particular, for the formation of green leaves. To restore the green color of the leaves, top dressing with liquid fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is necessary. More long-term support may be horny flour, which must be gently mixed into the upper layer of the earth.

Drooping leaves: Common causes are either drying out the soil (due to insufficient watering) or waterlogging of the soil (due to poor drainage or too frequent watering). Other causes may be an excess of light (especially if the leaves wilt regularly in the middle of the day), dry air, too high air temperature, a cramped pot or pests.

Leaves curl and fall: The edges of the leaves curl and sometimes become dry. Twisting the leaves of plants is a measure of self-defense, because this reduces the surface of the leaf and less water evaporates from it. This happens when the plant is in a too warm place or receives little water. It is necessary to water the plant until the soil is completely saturated, or dip it in water and hold it. Choose a cooler place for him.

Leaves fall off suddenly: Rapid leaf fall without a previous long period of wilting or discoloration usually indicates a shock suffered by the plant. It can be caused by a significant temperature difference (both lowering and increasing), a sharp increase in the intensity of illumination in the daytime or a strong cold draft. Sudden falling of leaves, especially in tree plants, can also be caused by drying out of the soil at the roots.

Leaves turn yellow and fall: The lower leaves of an adult plant naturally turn yellow over time and then fall. When this happens simultaneously with several leaves, the probable cause is waterlogging of the soil, lack of nitrogen, too dark place or cold drafts. First of all, you need to drastically reduce watering or completely replace the earth and less often water it. Regularly feed with appropriate fertilizers. Move the plant to a brighter place.

The lower leaves dry and fall: Three possible causes are a lack of light, too high air temperature and insufficient watering. The plant should be rearranged in a brighter place. Soak an earthball completely with water, immersing the pot for several hours in water. Move from a warm place to cooler conditions.

Leaves on new plants fall off: For newly transplanted, just bought or transferred from one room to another plants, it is natural to lose one or two lower leaves. The shock from a change of scenery can be mitigated if the plant is transplanted only in a slightly larger pot than the previous one, sheltered when moving home from the store and transferred from a poorly lit place to a bright light with an intermediate stay for several days in partial shade.

Dots or spots on leaves: If the dots or spots are dry and brown, then the most likely cause is a lack of water. If the affected areas are soft, dark brown light - this is most likely due to waterlogging of the soil. If the dots or spots are white or yellowish, the lesion is caused by the use of cold water when watering, a sharp drop in temperature, water getting on the leaves, aerosol damage, or illness / pests. If the spots are reddish, silver-white or brownish - the plant was suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. If the affected areas become wet and look like a blister, or dry in the form of dents, the cause is the disease. Some pests can also cause leaf spotting.

Brown tips or leaf edges: The most likely cause is the drying of the leaf tips to dry air. Another possible cause is physical damage, when the tips of the leaves are often touched or pressed against the glass or wall. If the edges of the leaves are yellow or brown, this can be caused by several reasons: waterlogging of the soil, insufficient watering, lack of light, too much light, too low air temperature, an excess of minerals, dry air or drafts. Other symptoms will help determine the true cause.

Small pale leaves and elongated stems: This happens in winter and early spring, after the plant was kept in insufficient light at too high a temperature and excessively heavy watering. If possible, the ugly part of the plant is removed. If such symptoms appear during the growth period, then the reasons may be a lack of minerals or too poor lighting.

Leaves and stems rot: This is caused by a disease that occurs under poor conditions. Often the cause of the disease is waterlogging of the soil in winter or water getting on the leaves, especially if it remains overnight.

Torn edges and holes on the leaves: Most often appear when physically damaged by pets or people (sometimes even a simple touch on an unfolded sheet can damage it) or when attacked by pests.

Variegated leaves turn solid green: This is simply due to a lack of light. Remove all processes with uniformly colored leaves (if possible) and move the pot with the plant closer to the window.

A plant does not grow slowly or at all: In winter, this is normal for all plants, so do not force it to grow. In summer, the most likely cause of growth retardation is a lack of minerals, waterlogging of the soil, or insufficient lighting. If these reasons are excluded, then, perhaps, the plant has a small pot.

The plant does not bloom: Several reasons can lead to the fact that an adult plant does not bloom at the right time. The most likely causes associated with lighting are a lack of light or an unsuitable length of daylight for a plant. Other causes may be an overabundance of minerals, dry air, thrips, or transplantation (some plants bloom only in a tight pot).

Buds fall: The reasons why leaves fall can also cause buds or flowers to fall. This is most often caused by dry air, insufficient watering, lack of light, moving the pot with the plant to another place and pest damage.

Flowers quickly fade: As a rule, this is a result of insufficient watering, dry air, lack of light or too high air temperature.

Green plaque on a ceramic pot: A sure sign of problems associated with irrigation - occurs when waterlogged soil or poor drainage.

White peel on a ceramic pot: There are two likely reasons - use too hard water for irrigation or an excess of minerals.

This plant was loved by us due to its unpretentiousness and elegant beauty. Perhaps, dracaena is one of the few palm trees that are capable of growing indoors without special supervision. Therefore, if you decide to get a room palm, you will have plenty to choose from. After all, variegated varieties of African - for every taste! Dracaena flower is a home photo and care in this material.

Family: dracenic. Bloom: depends on the species. Cultivation: simple.

Dracaena flower - striped dragon

Previously, dracaena and all its species, and it has about 80 of them, belonged to the asparagus family, and only recently found the eponymous "family" of dracaenas. The name comes from the Greek word "dracaina", which means "female dragon." It is not surprising that the people called the plant "dragon tree." And one of the varieties has a symbolic meaning: it is believed that the tree grew on the spot where the dragon’s blood was shed ...

A characteristic feature of dracaena of this species is red resin, which is used as a coloring matter. From time immemorial, dried red juice was served as dragon blood and used for embalming. Dragon dracaena is considered a symbol of the island of Tenerife, locals consider this magnificent tree sacred. The variety is distinguished by its impressive size, sometimes up to 30 m high and unusual shape of the crown. The tree is a long-liver, the oldest was found even before the development of the island, its trunk girth was 15 m., And according to various sources, it was several millennia old.

The dragon tree can be called one of the most useful: all varieties are volatile plants that cleanse the air of harmful fumes. Filter plants.

Do you know ...
The popular bamboo spirals that we see in bouquets and floral arrangements are not bamboo at all, but one of the varieties of dracaena, namely Sander.

The birthplace of these many plants is Africa, some dracaenas feel comfortable in South Asia, the tropics of Central America, Australia and New Guinea. Dragon tree is often confused with cordilina, which is smaller. In landscaping, several of the most decorative species are used. Dracaena home photo and views.

Fragrant Dracaena - African with a powerful trunk and wide leaves, blooming with white and very fragrant flowers. In shape, they are similar to flowers of Sansevier. The dimensions of the plant require a lot of space, it can grow to the ceiling.

d. fragrant
d. fragrant

Another flowering species, Dracaena Godzeff, she surkolosa - this is the most unusual and rare variety. Three varieties are known: Punctulata, Florida Beauty, and Milky Way. This species pleases with flowering on any windows, even oriented to the north side, requires support during growth, reaches a height of 3 m. The flowers are small, white, with a pleasant smell. The leaves are shaped like hoya leaves.

d. Godzeff
d. Godzeff Florida Beauty
d. surkolosa Milky Way and Punctulata

The flower of Dracaena deremensky became the progenitor of many spectacular varieties. These are miniature shrubs with fringed broad leaves, approx. 80 cm. Lemon Laim and White Stripe, Kanzi and White Jewel varieties are very beautiful. As they grow, the lower leaves fall, forming a dense, but short stem.

d. Deremenskaya Kanzi and White Jewel
d. Deremenskaya White Stripe and Lemon Laim

Dracaena bent away is very sweet, until it exceeds 40 cm, then the trunk begins to bend, and when shifted, it twists. Therefore, this species requires careful shaping and multiple cropping. The most beautiful varieties are Song of India and Song of Jamaica. By the way, this is the most capricious of room types.

d. bent Song of India and Song of Jamaica

The most famous fringed dracaena has varieties with bright pink, cream and light green stripes on the leaves: Colorama and Magenta. An evergreen tree grows up to 3 m tall and often forms several tops. The variety with a narrow filamentary border along the edge of the sheet was called Dracaena Marginata.

d. Marginata
d. Bordered by Magenta and Colorama

According to an ancient Aztec legend, the dracaena flower is considered a tree of happiness. So, the warrior, who once fell in love with the daughter of the high priest, was doomed to suffering. His beloved father was ready to give him his daughter as his wife only if leaves grew on a stick stuck in the ground. For five days, the lover desperately watered a lifeless stick, and on the night of the full moon it came to life. Since then, a twig cut off at midnight on the full moon is considered a symbol of eternal love!

Care Rules

These palm trees are the best-bought plants, they can be grown everywhere, they are extremely hardy and do not require custody. Despite the abundance of species, the growing rules for all are approximately the same. The site flowery-blog.ru will tell in more detail.

Temperature and lighting

Dracaena and its species are photophilous, but in different ways. In the direct sun, only fringed, without fear, expose, the rest can get burns. The very best lighting is the morning sun, or bright diffused light. In winter, so that narrow, slightly colored leaves do not grow, the plant needs to be additionally illuminated. An exception is Godzeff's dracaena (except for its variegated species), she prefers bright diffused lighting, but she will calmly suffer a lack of light in winter.

Dragon palm grows well in room conditions, the minimum allowable temperature is 15 degrees with sparse watering, and the most comfortable approx. 25, provided that the room is not stuffy.

Watering and humidity

Regular, and most importantly moderate watering is the key to good growth and development of a room palm. A dragon tree easily tolerates a temporary lack of moisture, but a systematic overflow in a compartment with a lack of light and low temperature is detrimental to the roots. Depending on the size of the pot and temperature, you can water in 7-12 days. 8 important watering rules.

Humidity does not play a special role in the growing process, but spraying will not harm, especially in the hot season. In addition, it is periodically necessary to clean the leaves of dust with a soft cloth. Sheet top dressing.

Fertilizers and fertilizing

During active growth, the dragon tree requires regular feeding. It is carried out 2 times a month with any fertilizer for decorative and deciduous. In summer, you can alternate mineral mixtures with organic top dressing. In winter, if there is growth, you can maintain the plant by fertilizing 1 time in 2 months. If the flower hibernates in low light and humidity conditions, it is better to exclude any fertilizer.

On a note
Flowering occurs from December to April. With artificial pollination at home, round fruits with seeds can be tied.

Reproduction and transplantation

Dracaena transplantation is performed once a year for young specimens and every 3 years for adults. For large palm trees, only the top layer of the substrate in the pot can be changed annually. When choosing a pot, it is important to consider that the root system of the dracaena is voluminous, so the plant needs a spacious pot with good drainage. In this case, it is better to give preference to sustainable ceramics! A good time for a transplant is the end of winter or the beginning of spring.

The substrate should be loose, nutritious and slightly acidic. How to determine the acidity of the soil. For the mixture, they take garden soil, peat, sand and a little leaf or coniferous humus. In the absence of the necessary components, you can confine yourself to garden soil and purchased peat mix, which are combined to achieve the optimal consistency. How to make soil for flowers.

Most bushy varieties initially have a beautiful, low rosette of leaves, but with age, the stalk is gradually exposed and they become “false palms”. Top trimming stimulates branching. Dracaena Marginata (bordered) is also amenable to formation, from the trunks they make “candelabra” with three or five horns, “dead loops” and randomly twisted voluminous bushes. It remains only to maintain a given shape.

For the dracaena flower, propagation is carried out by cuttings in the spring. Most species are easily rooted by apical and stem cuttings in water, or a light mixture of sand and peat (photo above).

Problems in growing?

Dracaena flower care for which is not complicated, little susceptible to disease and rarely suffers from pests. But weakens and loses attractiveness in inappropriate conditions.

If the dracaena turns yellow ...

The most dangerous reasons for this behavior are excessive watering, lack of light, or low temperature. Any of these factors provokes rot of the root system and intense decay of the foliage. Carefully check the moisture level in the pot with a wooden skewer: if the soil sticks, watering should be postponed.

Clogged and heavy soil can also cause yellowing of the leaves. Earth must be loose and breathable. Feeding that supports beauty is also important. For decorative foliage palm trees, this is, first and foremost, nitrogen! When a flower grows for a long time in one pot, a strong deficiency of trace elements occurs, therefore periodically do transshipment.

If dracaena has dry leaf tips ...

This phenomenon is quite rare and not progressive. The reason for this is dry air, especially in winter. Try to place the pot with a palm tree away from heating appliances, more often spray leaves. So that the defect is not very noticeable, you can trim the ends with scissors at an angle to the central vein.

If dracaena grows pale leaves ...

The flower of dracaena can change color in conditions of nutritional deficiency - in cramped conditions, inappropriate poor substrate, or in the complete absence of top dressing during growth. In addition, wintering becomes a difficult period, when the temperature is high and there is little light. Far from the light source, many palm trees change their direction of growth, stretch to the sun, and bend. From time to time it is useful to turn the pot and provide a sufficient level of lighting.

If there are spots on dracaena leaves ...

A palm tree could overheat in the sun, or freeze in a cold draft, so place your "pet" correctly. Low temperature plus high humidity contribute to the appearance of fungal diseases in the form of spots and plaque on the leaves. Diseases of indoor flowers.

If dracaena lowered the leaves ...

This behavior is typical for palm trees after transplantation, especially dracaena Marginata reacts particularly strongly. Otherwise, it is worth checking the soil, it may be very dry and the plant is thirsty! In a compartment with yellow leaves, this may, on the contrary, be a sign of overflow.

Of the pests, the most dangerous is the spider mite, which tips will help get rid of: pests of indoor flowers.

Dracaena is a home photo of which you saw a popular houseplant that has many varieties of variegated and flowering in reserve. Growing it is not difficult!

If you still have questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. ? If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Dracaena: how to transplant a dragon tree

In recent years, dracaena has firmly established itself in the first lines of the list of popular indoor plants. Very similar to a palm tree, it is more patient and complaisant than Hamedorei, Neantes and other eminent tropical beauties. Dracaena is easy to care for, at home it can reach three meters in height and live for several decades. But the longevity will be only that dracaena, which is properly looked after and which is provided with a timely transplant.

Dracaena in natural and domestic conditions

Dracaena is a palm tree for busy and not too zealous gardeners. Although she is not even related to palm trees. Only in appearance it is very similar: a slender bare trunk with a cap of leaves on top.

In nature, dracaena lives for a very long time. On the island of Tenerife, a sacred dragon tree grew 23 meters high with a trunk circumference of 15 meters. Inside the hollow of this giant, locals who worshiped the dracaena built an altar. According to the biologist and teacher N.M. Verzilin, who described this tree in the last century, sailors could see this tree as far back as 1402. On the same island, a 21-meter dracaena was found, surviving to this day, which is supposedly over 300 years old.

The false palm of the dracaena from the true ones compares favorably with its unpretentious disposition, modest demands on the conditions of detention, and the ability to forgive gardeners for their mistakes.

This plant, especially marginata (edged) and dragon tree, can green the dark corners of your home. It grows without problems in partial shade. Varieties with variegated leaves feel better in bright but diffused lighting. Direct rays can burn delicate greens. Dracaena loves artificial lighting, so she often decorates offices.

Dracaena does not require special temperature, it is suitable for moderate, indoor: in the summer +25 and above, in the winter of 18-20 degrees. That's just from its sharp drops and from drafts Dracaena must be protected - after all, she is a southerner.

It is advised to regularly spray dracaena and moisten the air for them. But this fully applies only to particularly delicate species, for example, fragrant and bent. As practice shows, the plant has already acclimatized to the dryness of our apartments. Although, of course, a warm spray shower will be welcome. Dracaena will also like the hygienic rubbing of leaves from dust.

Summer watering of dracaena should be plentiful: the hotter, the more. In winter, water is given sparingly, but the soil is not completely dry. The lower the temperature, the less moisture. Excess water at the roots leads to disease. Therefore, it is useful to loosen the topsoil so that air penetrates into the pot without hindrance.

Over the years, dracaena, like real palm trees, loses lower leaves. This is a natural occurrence. It is necessary to worry if leaf fall becomes massive.

To stimulate lateral kidneys and rejuvenate, it is recommended to cut the dracaena. Healthy plants, growth not less than 30 cm, cut off the top with a sharp knife, about 5-6 cm. It can then be rooted. The wound must be greased with garden varnish or sprinkled with charcoal. After about a month, new shoots should appear under the cut.

Video: how to care for a lazy palm tree

How to plant or transplant indoor dracaena

Dracaena is usually transplanted every two years. But this rule can be violated. If the plant develops well, does not cause concern - it is better not to disturb it. Even the most skilled transplant is very stressful for the plant.

The root system will inevitably be injured during this operation. But in some situations, transplantation is the only way out.

When you need to transplant a dracaena:

The root system of the dracaena develops inland, it has few lateral processes. Therefore, when choosing a new pot, pay attention to the tall and narrow containers. After transplanting, there should be enough space below for root development.

The size of the container depends on the size of the dracaena. A guideline here can be a plant 40–45 cm tall, which requires a pot with a diameter of 15–20 cm. Every 2-3 years, the diameter should increase by 2-3 cm, not more. You should not save money and take dishes for growth for dracaena. The roots will not be able to settle in a large volume of soil, the moisture will stagnate and the putrefactive process will begin.

To think for a long time what is better: plastic or ceramic - it makes no sense, the picky dracaena grows equally well in dishes made of any material. So here rely only on your taste and finances.

But be sure to check the drainage holes in the pot, and if they are not there, be sure to do it. They must be large enough to rid the plant of unnecessary moisture.

Necessary soil and drainage

Dracaenas are not capricious in the choice of soil. False palms like a breathable, moderately nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic (6–6.5 pH) substrate with a slight addition of loosening components and peat.

You can buy specialized soil for dracaena or palm trees, or you can make a mixture yourself. Here are some recipes:

turf land - 2 parts, leaf and compost - 1 part each, peat - 0.5;
on 2 shares of turf land - 1 deciduous and 0.5 coarse sand;
on 2 shares of turf land on 1 share of sand, peat and humus land;
equally leafy land, horse peat, chopped moss and half a fraction of perlite or coarse sand;
into two parts of rotted compost or humus for part of leafy soil, sand or vermiculite;
turf land, greenhouse and deciduous humus in equal shares, half of the share is river sand;
universal soil for indoor plants half diluted with garden soil, add a little chopped moss.

Useful additives can be added to the soil mixture for dracaena: crumbs of charcoal or red brick. Coal protects the roots and the earth from rot, and the brick enhances friability and absorbs excess moisture. The proportion is approximately this: on a bucket of soil 3-4 handfuls of coal and 0.5 kg of crushed brick. Like Dracaena and coconut fiber. Soak the briquette just before adding it: the coconut substrate greatly increases in volume.

Expanded clay, pebbles, vermiculite, brick chips, polystyrene are suitable for the drainage layer. It is not worth it to use drainage twice, especially expanded clay and brick, it absorbs harmful salts.

Proper land sterilization

It is better to sterilize the soil in advance, about a month before the intended transplant. It should lie down and come to life.

The right time for a transplant

Young dracaena (3-4 years of age) are usually transplanted in a year or two, adult specimens every 5 years or less. You can deal with transplantation during the entire period of vegetation (growth), that is, from spring to mid-autumn. But spring (in March - April) relocation is the best option. The plant has awakened from hibernation, is actively building greenery and root system. This means that the new land will be quickly and profitably inhabited.

However, in some cases, it is necessary to change the soil and the pot even in late autumn. For example, a plant became ill from overflow, pests were found in the soil, or you purchased dracaena growing in the transport soil, and it is still far from spring. In an autumn transplant, there is nothing too extreme for a plant. Just take a closer look at the migrant and create milder conditions for him. If the dracaena does not take root, spray it with warm water with the addition of a stimulant (Zircon, Epin, Skor).

Transshipment is the best way to transplant

Transshipment is the most sparing type of transplant. It is suitable for healthy adult plants that need a little more room for growth. When transshipment, earthen is stored unchanged. And new soil is poured between it and the walls of the pot. As a rule, dracaena perfectly tolerates this procedure. She does not have to spend energy on adaptation.

Step-by-step instructions for transshipment of dracaena

Before transshipment for 3-4 days, do not water the dracaena, then the earthen coma can be saved.
Prepare new soil, drainage and pot.
At the bottom, pour a drainage layer, a little soil.
Tilt the pot with dracaena or, if the size allows, turn over to get an earthen lump with roots. You can push it through the drain hole.
Place an earthen lump in the center of the new pot, the top of the lump should be only slightly below the top of the container.
Gradually sprinkle the earth from different directions, compacting with your fingers and shaking the pot.
Do not fill the pot to the top to make it convenient to water the plant, and do not leave voids in the ground.
After transplanting, water the dracaena well.
Put it in a warm (+ 20–22 о С), slightly shaded place.
Water sparingly for two weeks, avoiding overflow, occasionally spray. Observe the condition of the plant.
If there are no problems, put the dracaena in a permanent place and take care as usual.

Transplant requirements after purchase

When buying dracaena, be careful. Look at the foliage, it should be clean with green tips. Often in flower shops you can see plants with cut leaves. This means that they are not properly kept: in too dry air or without watering, and by cutting the ends of the leaves they try to mask the mistakes. Also examine the lower part of the leaves and the stem: if there are traces of pests.

When you bring the dracaena home, do not rush to introduce it to the other green inhabitants. Keep the plant in quarantine for at least 2 weeks. During this time, problems not noticed in the store may appear. In addition, the dracaena must adapt to the new environment.

And two weeks later, the question must be solved: to transplant the dracaena or not. If there is no doubt in plant health, wait with a transplant until spring. There are some problems, for example, poor soil quality, transplant your false palm at any time of the year. Usually store plants are kept in a peaty poor substrate. But for dracaena, it is not so harmful, it, unlike cacti, is tolerant of peat. Therefore, when transplanting a recently purchased plant, do not clean the root system completely, but remove only what is left behind.

Landing and transplanting

Pour a layer of expanded clay or other drainage into a new pot. On top of it is a soil mixture.
Do not water Dracaena before transplanting for 3-4 days, so that the earth at the roots dries and does not crumble.
Draw a knife or spatula along the edge of the flower pot, separating the earthen lump from the walls.
Video: how can transplant dracaena

Large dracaena transplant

At home, over time, dracaena grows into a three-meter tree. Such a giant is very difficult to transplant. It is much easier to update only the top layer (5-6 cm) of soil. Humus or other useful components are necessarily added to the new soil for nutrition.

But sometimes transplants cannot be avoided. Then look for an assistant. It is very difficult to deal with the transplantation of tall dracaena alone.

Stages of transplanting a large specimen:
Before transplanting, do not water the dracaena for several days, so that an earthen clod is easier to remove from the pot.
Prepare the soil mixture, drainage and pot.
At the bottom of the tank, pour a drainage layer and part of the soil.
Using a knife or spatula, carefully draw along the inner walls of the old pot to separate the grown roots.
If the roots sprouted into the drainage holes, trim them.
Get the dracaena with an earthen lump from the old pot (perhaps for this you will have to stand on a chair, holding the plant by the stem, and the assistant will pull the pot). Another option: carefully put the plant on its side and knock on the pot well, then carefully pull out the dracaena along with an earthen lump.
Shake off the soil slightly, do not remove all. Remove too long roots from below, do not worry too much during surgery - dracaena will quickly restore what was lost.
Transfer the plant to a new pot, set in the center and gradually fill the distance between the walls and the earthen lump with soil, slightly tamping it.
Water the soil around, wait for it to settle, and add more soil. But do not try to fill the pot to the brim, otherwise it will then be inconvenient to water, change the topsoil.

For oversized dracaenas, so as not to transplant often, you can take the pot slightly for growth. And it is better to invest in ceramic. It is more stable than plastic.

Video: how to transplant a high dracaena

Transplant Care

After dracaena moved to a new pot, it needs to create greenhouse conditions for a couple of weeks. This means that the plant is placed in a quiet and warm place without drafts, protect from direct sun. The best lighting is dim.

Water the dracaena very carefully. After transplanting, the main danger is waterlogging of the soil. The roots have not yet penetrated into the new soil, moisture may not be absorbed and stagnate in the pot. This will lead to acidification and rot. Pests are happy to settle in moist soil.

Transplant Issues

Most often, dracaena safely relocates from pot to pot and quickly adapts. But there are also problematic transplants. Then the plant becomes bored, the leaves wilt, the green hat of the foliage turns yellow. What is the cause of malaise? It can be assumed that during the transplant one or more errors were made:

Incorrect soil mixture. Dracaena does not tolerate heavy and too greasy soil, soil with a high content of peat, which repels moisture, is not suitable for it. The solution to the problem is a new transplant into the correct land.
The new pot is too big. A plant weakened by a transplant cannot use all of the soil. Undeveloped soil will be constantly wet, then acidify, and the growth of putrefactive flora will begin. And there, not far from the roots and rot. The way out is a transplant into a smaller pot with soil replacement.
Waterlogging after transplantation is the most common problem. Caring owners water the plant, without waiting for the surface of the earth to dry out, the soil turns into a swamp, the flower becomes even sadder. To please, it is watered again. With such "care" and death can occur. Do not water the plant until the top layer of soil dries 1–2 cm, remove water from the sump. If the situation is critical, try drying the earthen room. Remove it from the pot and place it on paper (so that moisture is absorbed) in a warm and dry place. If you want to take care of dracaena, it is better to spray it, but also without undue enthusiasm.
Incorrect contents after transplantation. This often happens during the autumn-winter transplant. In a cool room, a weakened plant freezes. Put the dracaena closer to the warm battery, and so that it does not suffer from dry air, spray it, put nearby containers of water.

Yellowing and death of leaves

Yellow leaves and small leaf fall are normal in the first two weeks after transplanting. But if the fall of the leaves intensifies further, measures must be taken. Yellowing is a sign of overflow or airtight soil. Reduce hydration. Change the soil if necessary.

Dracaena yellow leaves - a serious reason to think about the grower

If the leaves of the dracaena have brown and dry tips, the air dryness is most likely to blame. Spray the plant and moisten the air. Another reason is overfeeding dracaena. After transplantation, it should not be fed 2-3 months. Everything you need is already in the soil, if it is properly composed.

The tips of the leaves blacken in a too cold room or when touching a cold window pane.

Dracaena lowered the leaves

Video: Fix Transplant Errors

Cuttings

Beautiful palms are not easy to breed and only by seed. And a dracaena, so similar to a palm tree, is easy to grow from a stalk. Roots and segments of the stem lend themselves to rooting. Thus, you can not only get a new plant, but also rejuvenate the old.

We plant cuttings

In an adult and healthy dracaena, cut the stalk 3–5 cm with a sharp sterile knife: top of the stem with leaves.

A plant without a crown also does not leave without attention. Sprinkle the wound with charcoal and dry. Spray the plant with growth stimulants. After 3-4 weeks, new kidneys begin to develop under the cut. Dracaena will receive a second life.

The amazing vitality of dracaena and its ability to reproduce formed the basis of the Aztec legend. According to her, the high priest, who did not want to give his daughter in marriage to a warrior, stuck a stick in the ground and said that if there were no leaves on it in five days, there would be no wedding. And he promised to execute the groom. The warrior began to water this stick. And on the fifth day, leaves grew on it - that was how dracaena was born. The Aztecs call it the tree of happiness.

Dracaena is also propagated by segments of the stem up to 12 cm. Sections are dusted with charcoal, the cuttings are dug in moistened sand and a greenhouse is arranged. Just don't confuse the top end with the bottom. Such cuttings take root in 2-3 weeks.

Some gardeners create original compositions by planting several young dracaena in one pot. So they look more magnificent. However, do not plant old and young dracaena together. An adult plant will not allow a teenager to develop.

Rooting cuttings of dracaena

Reviews of gardeners: beautiful, complaisant, unpretentious

Dracaena is not a sissy. I had a cat drop it from a shelf onto a table: a pot to smithereens, a dracaena crown into a laptop ... A pile of land. fragments, broken leaves ... And her cat ate repeatedly. All dracaena nothing.

About the transplant. I usually put two pots in the bathtub - with a flower and a new one with a small layer of earth. Then I spill a pot of flower with water, then I pry off the earth with a small spatula, pull out a flower with a lump of earth - and immediately into the next pot. I top up the earth, tamp a little, spill water as it should. I leave it for 40 minutes in the bathtub so that the excess water is glass. All.

Olesya

http://www.woman.ru/rest/medley8/thread/4193523/

When transplanting dracaena, a prerequisite is that there should not be spaces empty in the roots, i.e. the earth should be carefully distributed between the roots and roots during transplantation, so as not to rot, add coal powder, a little Fitosporin. Watering immediately is not necessary, in the new land and so there is moisture, the first watering in a couple of days. Drainage is necessary - I have 1/4 pot of polystyrene foam. But I would have cleaned the whole store land, just soak the roots in a bucket of warm water for 5 minutes and rinse them. I personally popped a bunch of earthworms. After transplantation, Dracene was sprayed with Epin solution every 10 days (3 times). The pot must necessarily be commensurate with the root stain - otherwise everything will rot. I have a big pot, but half a pot of land, as it grows, I will add land. You can’t bury the trunk - only roots should be in the ground.

Oksana

http://eka-mama.ru/forum/part58/topic139865/?PAGEN_1\u003d2

Too big a pot is not good either. At least pouring is very easy. I poured my favorite dracaena from great love thoroughly after transplantation. In a small pot, she simply swallowed water. And after transplanting into a large pot, out of habit I also watered it abundantly. But is there a lot of land? and it keeps moisture. As a result, she hung all the leaves. I had to urgently change the land. Now she has come back. But the view is not the same as before. So, if you transplant into a large pot, then you need to be watered very carefully. Moreover, other dracaena transplanted into the same pots with the same root system feel normal. I usually watered them. I didn’t try so hard.
If the roots stick out of the pot, it is necessary to transplant, since in the pan they begin to rot. I checked this on personal experience.

http://homeflowers.ru/yabbse/index.php?showtopic\u003d5583

My parents have dracaena at least 10 years old. It was brought once long ago from Spain in the form of a piece of the trunk. Once every couple of years, when it outgrows all possible sizes, it is mercilessly chopped into separate pieces, similar to firewood. These firewoods are scattered in glasses of water and perfectly take root. The first time, too, was scary, but over so many years almost all the processes have taken root. Already half of the city, probably, our offspring are growing!

frekensnork

http://forum.ditenok.com/showthread.php?t\u003d34842

It is not by chance that Dracaena became one of the most popular plants. Its original leaves give an exquisite style to any interior. And to look after her is simple and pleasant. And even such a traumatic procedure as a transplant, a patient dracaena transfers with dignity. The main thing is not to disappoint this plant, to do everything according to the rules.

Causes of dropped leaves in dracaena

Dracaena is considered a very unpretentious indoor plant. She does not need special care. But in order for the flower to please the eye as long as possible with its splendor and beauty, respond in time to any changes in its appearance. What are the drooped leaves of dracaena talking about?

Why is dracaena letting go of leaves

We will analyze what causes this problem and what needs to be done to solve it.

Why do dracaena drop leaves?

There may be several reasons:

improper watering;
not suitable in size pot;
nutrient deficiency;
lack of moisture;
drafts and broken temperature;
the plant was frozen.

The soil should be moist, not moist. The plant is watered with settled water at room temperature, when the earthen lump dries out by about 2 cm. The irrigation regimen is 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in the pot, pour expanded clay or coarse-grained sand on its bottom with a layer of 3-4 cm, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from decay. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.

In the hot summer period, the flower needs to be sprayed. To wash off the dust and refresh it, we recommend once a month to put the plant in the shower, covering the ground with cellophane. After bathing the leaf growth point, blot with a napkin.

Close pot

The second reason that the leaves are constantly lowered down may be an improperly sized flower pot. If it is small, then plant nutrition is difficult. Roots need space. Check the tightness of their fit to the walls of the pot. If necessary, transplant a flower.

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

Lower leaflets may fall down due to insufficient nutrients. In a cramped pot with a very developed root system, the earth quickly becomes poorer, the upper crown grows due to the lower foliage. During the period of active growth from April to September 1-2 times a month, feed the roots with pre-selected fertilizers. When watering, you can use liquid fertilizers according to the instructions.

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.

A flower loves humid air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the flowerpot on a pan with water so that the bottom of the flowerpot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.

About the causes of drying of dracaena leaves and their methods

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Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. Evergreen palm up to 35 years old is considered to be young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

How to transplant dracaena yourself and avoid mistakes

When do I need a transplant?

How to transplant dracaena at home? First of all, it is necessary to decide in which period it is best to take for a rejuvenating and stimulating flower growth procedure. The best time is the end of winter or the beginning of spring. Since the plant wakes up after hibernation, and its vital processes become more active, dracaena transplantation at home will be the least stressful for it.

To clearly understand in what cases it is necessary to undertake the renewal of the soil mixture in a flower pot, select the following list:

it is recommended to transplant the dracaena into another pot if the rhizome has grown so much that it filled the container, and its processes can even be seen on the surface of the earthen coma. By updating the substrate and picking up a larger flower pot, you will create enough free space for your plant and stimulate the growth of shrubs;
transplanting dracaena after purchase is another requirement for a grower. First, indoor flowers are sold in fragile plastic pots or flowerpots, not intended for long-term use. Secondly, you cannot be sure of the quality of the soil mixture and the absence of pests until you replace the substrate with your own hands;
it is recommended to plant dracaena if you overfill the soil with water, and dropped leaves of the plant and its decay on the face;
the soil for transplantation needs to be updated, since the substrate in which the indoor shrub grows has ceased to be nutritious. In addition, the earth becomes very clogged over time and begins to pass water and air poorly;
when a plant is infected with pests, not only its treatment with insecticidal drugs, but also transplantation of a home palm will help.

Knowing how to plant dracaena at home, and at what time is best done, you can achieve excellent results during the cultivation of shrubs.

What tools will be needed

To properly plant this homemade flower, you must clearly know which devices will help you in your work. It is not enough to determine what size pot the dracaena needs. Among the tools and materials that an experienced grower should have at hand, it is worth highlighting the following:

drainage;
high-quality soil mixture;
spray;
a container of water;
scissors or pruner.

Knowing how to properly transplant a dracaena, you stimulate your indoor shrub to even more active development.

Choosing the right pot

Perhaps you, as a beginner grower, can think about which pot to transplant the dracaena into. This moment must be given due attention. It is believed that a ceramic flower pot is best suited for dracaena. What is good about this material is its culvert properties, which is priceless for your indoor flower.

If you wish, you can buy a plastic flowerpot. However, in this case, be prepared for the fact that the irrigation regime will have to be observed with particular care. The water in the pot dries a little longer than in a container made of ceramics, so you can not overmoisten the substrate in any case. As for the sizes, it is better to buy a pot that is 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. It is impossible to plant the shrub in a too spacious container, since the plant will put all its strength into the growth of the rhizome, and not the stem part.

Which soil is suitable

How to plant a dracaena and what kind of land this plant needs - it is advisable to find out these points in advance so as not to make mistakes. Prepare the substrate for the indoor shrub yourself or buy the finished mixture for palm trees in a specialized store. If you decide to mix all the necessary components for the soil composition at home, you will need turf land, peat, leaf soil, as well as compost.

Step-by-step instruction

Let's find out how to transplant the dracaena after the purchase in stages. Even if you are going to carry out this kind of procedure for the first time, there should not be any problems.

This process necessarily includes the following points:

approximately 3-4 days before the transplant, it is recommended that the substrate is not wetted;
at the bottom of the pot you purchased you need to pour pebbles, expanded clay or cracked bricks - this material will perform the function of drainage;
thoroughly inspect the root system of the flower, if you need to trim old or damaged root processes;
place the plant in a new flowerpot, cover the roots with the soil mixture, and form a mound not too large around the stem - this way, the water after irrigation will drain down.

To dracaena after transplantation did not lower the leaves, be sure to provide competent care for the flower, especially at first.

Further care and mistakes for beginners

In general, dracaena transplanted in spring or summer is treated under the same conditions as before the procedure. Do not leave the flower in the sun, as the plant may get burned. It is recommended to moisten the substrate 3-4 times a week. Do not forget to spray the leaves of the flower, as the plant is very fond of moisture. From time to time, fertilizers must be applied to the soil.

As for the mistakes, even if they are made, they rarely lead to the death of the bush. However, buying an oversized flower pot can contribute to plant wilt. The same can be said about the overmoistening of the soil substrate. Create favorable conditions for the shrub for growth, provide care for the dracaena based on the basic recommendations of specialists, and the plant will fully develop, and you can later transplant the flower without much effort.

Video "Dracaena transplant"

From this video you will learn how to properly transplant a dracaena.

Rules for self-transplanting dracaena

Most gardeners consider dracaena one of the most beautiful indoor plants. Dracaena is able to decorate any interior due to its unusual and spectacular appearance. Like any other plant, it will require a transplant. This process can be carried out immediately after purchase or after some time. A correct transplant will help to get rid of all sorts of problems associated with caring for dracaena.

Dracaena is one of the most beautiful ornamental deciduous plants. Most of them came from the tropics. About 150 varieties of this plant are counted, whose homeland is called tropical and subtropical Africa, as well as islands located in southeast Asia.

Regardless of variety, dracaena occasionally requires a transplant. into a larger pot. The need for this arises because the root system of the plant does not tolerate crowding. Young dracaena is recommended to be transplanted annually with the advent of spring. For larger and adult dracaena, transplantation is needed as it grows. If there is no need to transplant the plant yet, in spring it is necessary to change the topmost layer of soil with heavier soil.

It is generally accepted that in emergency situations, dracaena can be transplanted even in autumn, despite the fact that the plant is preparing for winter sleep. Emergencies mean the threat of withering or drying out due to an overly tight pot, and the purchase of a young, new plant. After acquiring dracaena, a transplant should be made in a few weeks, regardless of the time of year. This is explained by the fact that in the store the plant is placed in small pots, with improper soil, abundantly saturated with fertilizers designed to accelerate growth. All this can lead to the death of dracaena.

Of course, the dracaena transplant carried out in the autumn, is very stressful for the plant. A natural reaction to it will be falling of leaves or their yellowing. It must be remembered that any indoor flower, including dracaena, is categorically not recommended to be disturbed in the fall. It is at this time that preparation for wintering occurs, and excess stress will cause depletion of the plant.

Before proceeding with the transplant, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the features characteristic of dracaena. Observing the simple rules, you can easily save yourself from the many problems associated with plant transplantation. The quality of the earth has a direct impact on the condition of the flower, its growth, proper development. In this regard, it is necessary with all responsibility to approach the choice of soil in which dracaena will be located.

The substrate, which has a direct impact on the further development, growth and health status of the plant, plays one of the most important roles in dracaena transplantation. Overall this the flower is picky enough and is able to easily accept any soil. However, the most suitable option for the plant is peat-containing land with an acidity level of 6.0-6.5.

If you have to choose between a ready-made purchased substrate and a self-prepared mixture, it would be better to completely rely on your own capabilities and feelings. The only exception to the rule is the use of sheet soil, which was previously in the garden or in the garden. This type of soil should not be used when transplanting, since it contains a fairly large amount of mineral salts and fertilizers.

The most suitable option is a mixture prepared from leaf, compost, peat and turf lands in the ratio 1: 1: 0.5: 2. In order to prevent soil caking, it is also recommended to add about a quarter of a pot of river sand. If it was decided to purchase a finished substrate, you need to pay special attention to the presence in it of the necessary nutrients and trace elements.

How to choose a flower pot

To date, the attention of gardeners presented huge assortment of flowerpots, among which it is rather difficult to make the right choice. Almost every person, first of all, pays attention to the pots having the most attractive external characteristics. However, such containers may in fact be unsuitable for use. In this regard, when choosing a new flower pot for dracaena, you must comply following recommendations:

In order for the plant to please the eye for a long time, a new flowerpot should be chosen, starting from the size of the root system. For example, with a dracaena height of about 40 cm, the pot should be at least 15 cm in diameter.
The diameter of each subsequent flowerpot should be in diameter 2 or 3 cm more than the previous. The grave mistake of some novice flower lovers is to buy a pot too large, taken with a margin. In such a container, the water will stagnate, having a detrimental effect on the health status of the plant.
Most gardeners are convinced that a ceramic flowerpot is best suited for dracaena. They justify this opinion by the probability of a better supply of the root system with oxygen, obtained due to the porous structure of the container. At the same time, it is believed that the substrate in this case dries out more evenly. In fact, as practice shows, in ordinary plastic pots, dracaena grows and develops no worse.
If dracaena is old enough, it is better to choose stable flowerpot, with glassy outlines.
One of the prerequisites for choosing a pot is the presence of holes in the bottom, due to the fact that for dracaena stagnation of water in the soil coma can be fatal.

The dracaena transplant process

The plant life depends entirely on how correctly and in a timely manner the plant is transplanted. It is highly recommended not to do this in the autumn. With the advent of autumn, the flower prepares for winter holidays and breaking this process can harm the dracaena.

For a transplant you will need:

A new flowerpot with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm larger than the previous one.
Soil purchased in the store or prepared independently.
Expanded clay or other drainage.
A sharp knife or pruner.
A vessel of water heated to room temperature.
Sprayer for water.

In a new pot, pre-treated with hot water, it is necessary to pour prepared drainage layer. The height of this layer is determined by the presence of perforation in the bottom of the tank. If there are no holes, then the drainage thickness needs to be increased, and if there is, then for a medium-sized pot, the height should be 2-3 cm. After completion, you need to very carefully remove the dracaena from the previous flowerpot, carefully freeing the root system from the old soil. If there are rotting sites on the roots, they must be removed and sprayed onto the dracaena root system using a spray gun.

Dracaena should be placed in a new flowerpot and carefully fill in the remaining space among the roots. Do not allow appearance in the root system air sacs. After graduation, for the quickest adaptation of the flower to new soil, you should pour it with a solution of fertilizers. In the future, dracaena should be moderately watered. At first, it is recommended to use zircon. Fertilizers will need to be applied twice a month. With the correct transplant, this dose should be enough.

When transplanting dracaena, special attention should be paid to the zone of transition of the plant trunk to the root neck. This place can not be excessively deepened into the ground, and the neck needs to be slightly sprinkled with earth. The soil is better to use light or medium density. The roots of dracaena really like the air. Most gardeners believe that the plant should be transplanted into store peat soil, however, it is too heavy. Best of all, a flower grows in a mixture of peat soil with coco soil or deciduous. In this case, the roots receive a sufficient amount of air and moisture.

After planting, the plant needs put in a quiet placeso that no one hurts him. It is important that it receives enough dim light. The most successful time for transplantation are:

late fall. Transplant overgrown color as needed.
early spring. Good time to transplant a young plant.

The flowerpot should be slightly larger than its predecessor, since in a very large pot the flower may die.

Plant transplant after purchase

Is it necessary to transplant dracaena immediately after its acquisition? There is no single answer to this question. A younger plant is better leave in the same pot before spring. In case of doubt about the need for a transplant, it is recommended to choose a transshipment. In this case, dracaena with the earth is transferred to a larger pot and supplemented with new soil. After this, the plant must be fertilized with zircon.

If the purchased plant is planted in the transport soil, then it must be transplanted into new soil, removing completely the old one.

Feeding dracaena after transplantation

After all procedures related to transplant, dracaena adapts for several weeks. At this time, the root system is formed. In order for the process to go as quickly as possible, the plant needs to be watered with a liquid that stimulates root growth, but not more than twice a month. In general, the plant should be fed from March to November, with a frequency of once every few weeks. In winter, top dressing should be done once a month, and the amount of active substance must be reduced by half. A universal fertilizer used for dracaena and palm trees is best suited.

Watering dracaena

The process of watering dracaena is no different from the usual. The only caveat is the need for the first time add zircon to the irrigation fluid.

So, dracaena transplantation is a fairly simple action that even a novice flower lover can handle.

We will analyze what causes this problem and what needs to be done to solve it.

There may be several reasons:

improper watering;
not suitable in size pot;
nutrient deficiency;
lack of moisture;
drafts and broken temperature;
the plant was frozen.

Watering

Close pot

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.

A flower loves humid air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the flowerpot on a pan with water so that the bottom of the flowerpot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.

Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

Palm tree dropped leaves what to do. What to do if dracaena leaves have fallen? Feeding dracaena after transplantation

Optimal home conditions for growing dracaena

Varieties of dracaena - photo gallery

We diagnose infectious diseases - table

Dracaena diseases - photo gallery

Dracaena insects - table

Pests of indoor plants - photo gallery

Other causes of plant problems are care errors

We solve problems

If the trunk froze and became soft

If the tip is broken

If the trunk is too long or crooked

How to treat Dracaena from lesions - details

The use of fungicides in fungal diseases

Transplantation into sterile soil

How to use insecticides

Resuscitation of Dying Dracaena

If the bottom of the plant has rotted

If the top is dry

Symptoms of care mistakes and possible causes.

Dracaena flower - striped dragon

Care Rules

Temperature and lighting

Watering and humidity

Fertilizers and fertilizing

Reproduction and transplantation

Problems in growing?

Dracaena: how to transplant a dragon tree

Dracaena in natural and domestic conditions

Video: how to care for a lazy palm tree

How to plant or transplant indoor dracaena

Necessary soil and drainage

Proper land sterilization

The right time for a transplant

Transshipment is the best way to transplant

Step-by-step instructions for transshipment of dracaena

Transplant requirements after purchase

Landing and transplanting

Video: how can transplant dracaena

Large dracaena transplant

Video: how to transplant a high dracaena

Transplant Care

Transplant Issues

Yellowing and death of leaves

Dracaena lowered the leaves

Video: Fix Transplant Errors

Cuttings

We plant cuttings

Rooting cuttings of dracaena

Reviews of gardeners: beautiful, complaisant, unpretentious

Causes of dropped leaves in dracaena

Why do dracaena drop leaves?

Close pot

Nutrient deficiency

Temperature and humidity

How to transplant dracaena yourself and avoid mistakes

When do I need a transplant?

What tools will be needed

Choosing the right pot

Which soil is suitable

Step-by-step instruction

Further care and mistakes for beginners

Video "Dracaena transplant"

Rules for self-transplanting dracaena

How to choose a flower pot

The dracaena transplant process

Plant transplant after purchase

Feeding dracaena after transplantation

Watering dracaena

Watering

Close pot

Nutrient deficiency

Temperature and humidity