Faded tulip what to do. What to do next with faded tulips. When the foliage of tulips is removed

Blossoming of tulips - the triumph of spring. For the holiday to come annually, these bulbous plants will need special care.

Tulip care after flowering

When the tulip's petals fade, it is necessary to cut off the flower so that no effort is spent on setting seeds. Leaves should not be cut, they participate in photosynthesis, providing nutrition. Now the main thing is to create conditions for the development of a young replacing bulb, because the old dies off after flowering.

It is better to break off rather than pruning flowers with pruners. In the latter way, tulip diseases, for example, the variegation virus, are easily tolerated.

After flowering, only the flower head breaks off; no need to remove the entire peduncle

In order for the bulb to be larger, the plants after flowering fertilize a choice:

daily infusion of ash;
kalimagnesia;
potassium nitrate.

Top dressing is done on moist soil. At this and other stages of growth, fertilizing spring flowers with manure or fertilizers with a high nitrogen content is not recommended. This can lead to rotting of the bulbs.

Do not forget about soil moisture. While the leaves are green, it is necessary to water the plants abundantly once a week if the spring is dry.

When watering tulips, you need to wet the soil to a depth of the roots: 35–40 cm

Bulb digging

So that the flowers do not fade, and the bulbs do not hurt and do not degenerate, any kind of tulip is dug up every year. This is usually done in late June - early July. The exception is tulip babies; they are dug up once every two years. Experienced flower growers advise:

hold the event in dry weather;
submerge a shovel deeper than planting the bulb; in the process of growth, they deepen;
destroy all diseased specimens;
etch the dug planting stock in a disinfecting solution.

Digging too early leads to underdevelopment of the bulb and children. In addition, the decorativeness of future flowers will decrease. If you dig up late when the shoots dry out, there is a risk that the bulb has time to become infected with a fungus or the protective covering scales crack. This can lead to spoilage of planting material during storage.

If the leaves turn yellow or wilt, try wrapping the stem around your finger. If the shoot did not break, it turned out to be plastic, dig out a control specimen. If the bulb scales turn light brown, the time for digging has come.

Dug tulips do not immediately break off the stems, let them dry out, and nutrients go to the bulb

Once I was presented with a dozen bulbs of peony tulips. The blooming of stunning terry flowers lasted a long time thanks to the cool weather. But after yellowing the tops, I forgot to dig them. The next spring, not one came up. The neighbors say that they have rare new varieties that degenerate and do not germinate if they are not dug up annually.

Signs that it is time to dig up tulips - video

Drying and disinfection

Dug out tulips are laid out under a canopy in 2 layers for two days. After this time, the bulbous nests decay easily. Bulbs are peeled of dead roots and husks and disinfected in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for half an hour. The procedure will destroy the pathogens of rot and feed the tulip with trace elements. Then the bulbs are dried again, sorted by size and placed in open wooden crates or baskets, preferably in one layer.

In order not to get the bulbs one at a time, it is convenient to disinfect them by placing them in a gauze bag

Storage

During summer storage, the bud and buds of future bulbs are finally formed. In order for the aging process to occur correctly, they are first kept at a temperature of about 25 ° C for a month in a well-ventilated room. The optimum humidity is 60–70%. In August, the temperature is lowered to 20 o C, in September and then to 15 o -17 o C. If these rules are not followed, tulips may not bloom or give “blind” buds.

Periodically, planting material is examined and discarded by patients who are sick or moldy. Most often, stored tulips are affected by gray rot and fusarium. At the first disease, the bulbs are covered with a gray coating and gradually rot. In the second case, brown spots with a brownish border are formed, the bulbs exude an unpleasant smell and also decompose. If the lesion is small, the rot is cut with a sharp knife, the bulb is pickled, as usual, then sprinkled with ash and dried.

Poorly dried and non-disinfected bulbs are often affected by gray rot.

Landing

Ideally, tulips land in the fall, in late September - early November. Spring planting is also practiced in April. But then the tulips will bloom much later, because they will need about three weeks to root. It is advisable to change the place of planting every year so that pathogens do not accumulate in the soil.

Where spring flowers will grow, moisture should not stagnate. The future flower bed is prepared in 2 weeks so that the earth evenly settles. The bed is dug up to the depth of the bayonet shovel and make compost, ash or superphosphate. If necessary, lime. On clay soils, peat is welcome. In the absence of rain, the area is shed with water.

Before planting, the bulbs are again sorted and disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate. Bulb planting depth - three of its heights. For large specimens, the distance between the bulbs is 15 cm, for medium - 10 cm, small - 5 cm. 25-30 cm are left on the aisles.

Advanced flower growers plant tulips in special baskets for bulbs, they are very easy to dig out

Do not cover the beds with organic flowers, so as not to attract rodents. In the event of unforeseen frosts, agrofibre is spread on the flowerbed, which is pressed by the boards.

On the advice of an experienced grower, when planting, I put a handful of sand mixed with ash in the hole. On this "hill" I put the onion and fall asleep with earth. Now, the loss of tulips from a variety of rot on my heavy loam is minimized. And the bulb comes out larger, due to the fact that the sand loosens the soil and the roots freely develop.

Top dressing immediately after flowering, disinfection of the bulbs and warm storage with a subsequent drop in temperature - these are three whales of the grandiose spring flowering of tulips.

Tulips have a bewitching beauty, capturing the eyes with a riot of colors. Unfortunately, their flowering period is very short. And now on the site there is a flower bed with wilted plants, tulips have bloomed what to do next, and how to store them until the next season you have to figure out.

In order to preserve the attractive appearance of the garden, tulips can be planted in separate containers, which are easily cleaned after flowering. The second option: place them between perennials with a long flowering period.

Leaf cutting

Take your time to prune the leaves, as nutrients and trace elements come through them. When still green leaves are removed, the bulb stops its development.

As soon as the leaves turn yellow, they must be cut off, leaving a small lump. Set a small stick so as not to lose the bulbs before digging.

Does a wilted plant need to be fertilized?

After flowering, remove the peduncle and continue watering with top dressing for 14-20 days. Bulbs will need this time to accumulate nutrients. Nitrogen and chlorine should not be present in the fertilizer, but phosphorus and potassium will help strengthen the plant.

Watering should be plentiful, not allowing drying in the ground. To do this, you need 500 ml of water under one root. Pay attention to the amount of fertilizer, 40 gr is enough per square meter. top dressing, otherwise the bulbs will form for too long.

Replanting tulips after flowering

A flower transplant is carried out to prevent plant degeneration, although this does not exclude all risks. Some varietal tulips can grow in one area for up to 4 years, without requiring a transplant. However, they also need a change of location for optimal development.

There are certain rules for this, which you should adhere to:

Before transplanting tulips, it is necessary to wait until the flowering ends and cut off the withered leaves. It should take from 14 to 30 days, otherwise the bulbs will not have time to accumulate the necessary supply of nutrients for the next season.
The plant should be transplanted into nutritious soil, on which previously crops suitable for further growing tulips grew. Wells are placed in increments of 30 cm between the bulbs, while the distance between the children should be at least 15 cm.
Before placing the tulip in the hole, a warm solution of potassium permanganate is poured into it. It happens that in a selected area the land is cracking, it is worth pre-mixing it with peat. If you neglect this advice, the flowers will hurt or die.
Bulbs without defects are used as planting material. When transplanting, watering is not required, since the soil was moistened in advance. The first watering is carried out after 4 days, and after two weeks you can start feeding flowers.

When to dig out tulips after flowering?

In June, gardeners have a question: when to dig up tulips after flowering? It is necessary to wait until the leaves turn completely yellow and the stems lose their hardness. Only in the presence of these indicators is it possible to dig plants.

How to dig a plant?

It is better to use a pitchfork to dig out, since a shovel can damage the plant. Dig the soil carefully so as not to leave the bulbs in the ground.

Drying tulips in the open sun is strictly prohibited. Pre-sort the kids from the adult bulbs and place in a warm place. After three days, the plants must be disposed of from the ground and rotted and diseased rhizomes removed, and large ones should be separated from small ones.

Large planting material is more productive, but the kids are also suitable for planting, only in a separate place.

Bulbs will need about 5 days to dry in the presence of dry weather, increased humidity increases the period to 14 days. All this time, the container with the plants should be in the shade without direct sunlight.

Bulb storage and handling

Care for tulips after flowering, as well as their further storage, must be carried out taking into account the temperature, humidity, ventilation and lack of light.

As containers, wicker baskets made of natural materials, wooden boxes, paper containers or nets are optimally suitable. Sorted roots are placed in a maximum of two layers. The buds and leaves will form over the next couple of months, so storage conditions must be carefully monitored.

Humidity

The optimum level of humidity is in the range of 60-70%. When the air is drier, the bulbs will start to wrinkle, so when these symptoms appear, moisten the air. High humidity will cause early germination and lead to rotting of the material.

Temperature mode

The first three weeks in the store should adhere to a temperature of 25 to 30 degrees. Further, this indicator should not exceed 20 ° C.

Quality ventilation

A prerequisite for successful preservation is the availability of a good ventilation system in the room. During storage, the use of high plastic containers and plastic bags is unacceptable. Such conditions will not allow preserving the bulbs until next season.

Some gardeners prefer to store bulbs in the refrigerator. However, this is not the best option. Low temperatures lead to late laying of the kidneys. Such a bulb will not bloom.

Pay special attention to children, as adult bulbs will degenerate over time, and new ones will be required for further reproduction.

Periodically review material and remove rotten plants. If there are rodents in the store, it is better to store the bulbs in nets by hanging them from the ceiling.

Tulips (Tulipa) during flowering are incredibly beautiful. The problem is the loss of decorativeness of most species after flowering. This spoils the overall appearance of the flower garden, makes it difficult to care for other flowers and prevents the planting of new ones. The bulb can not be put in storage yet. Prior to this, she will have to be in the soil for a rather long time. The aerial part (leaves with a short peduncle) cannot be removed. I have been using a couple of tricks for many years to solve the problem of freeing the flower garden from faded tulips without changing the development cycle of this perennial bulbous plant.

Tulips bloom so beautifully!

Condition of tulips after flowering

Tulips are easier to care for in separate beds and flower beds. However, ordinary flower lovers rarely can afford such a luxury. Their tulips are often included in garden compositions, decorate flower beds with perennials and perennials or grow "anywhere." After flowering, they suffer from the inevitable mechanical damage associated with caring for and planting neighboring plants. Do not improve the condition of tulips and waterlogging of the soil, hard feeding of organic matter, etc.

These beautiful tulips are good in the flower garden only at the time of flowering.

If you cut off the entire aerial part immediately after flowering, then the bulb will not be able to form and reach a mature state. Its vegetation usually begins to bloom by the end of June - beginning of July, which can be easily determined by the weakening of the peduncle turgor, dry color and wilting of leaves. By this time, the covering scales of the substitute bulb become golden brown. It is impossible to delay the digging of bulbs, as the risk of decay of the nests and loss of hiding scales increases. “Naked” bulbs are stored worse. I set for myself the deadline for digging bulbs - the middle of the first decade of July.

Where to hide the faded tulip?

Often in the flower garden, along with tulips, various annuals and perennials grow, allowing to decorate faded bulbous. But this does not always work. Imagine how the border of faded tulips looks unsightly, which until recently looked amazing.

There are tulips with decorative leaves. I plant them separately, as they are good even after flowering. For instance, kaufman Tulip (favorite varieties Johann Strauss, Giuseppe Verdi and Ice Tick ) may have bluish leaves with stripes and dots. Wide leaves tulips foster with a wax coating on the leaves of some varieties are decorated with reddish stripes and dots. Greig's Tulips varieties with wide bluish leaves with cherry-red strokes and spots (" Dreambot, Mary Ann "). At Oriental Beauty"And" United nations »Leaves with conspicuous brown strokes. " New Design » ( Triumph Tulips) is appreciated because of the flowers and the silver edging of the dark green leaves.

Such tulips are good even after flowering

The list of varieties with striped and painted leaves is huge. Such tulips, especially undersized ones, look perfect among stones. They can be planted in rock gardens.

Low-growing tulips with variegated leaves always attract attention. Their decorativeness does not even suffer from the proximity to such a classic weed as a dandelion

I have to “deceive” this culture in order to avoid a number of inconveniences associated with caring for faded tulips. Those tulips that have ordinary leaves, I remove from the flower garden immediately after flowering. For this I take a suitable container with holes at the base. It can be a plastic or metal bucket, a large flower pot, a basin, a balcony drawer or something else. The main thing is that there are drainage holes or cracks, holes, etc. to drain rain or irrigation water.

At the bottom I pour sand and light soil. After that, carefully dig out tulips with bulbs so that the lump of earth with roots does not fall apart. I put them in a container and sprinkle them with earth. Then I transfer the container with plants to a secluded shady part of the garden. If necessary, moisten the soil a little at first.

It’s good that I didn’t throw away the old bucket with a rusted bottom, in which then drainage holes were made

This technique allows plants to survive a certain development cycle (until the bulbs are prepared for storage) in an environment unnatural for them. Such tulips bloom beautifully next year.

Autumn planting of bulbs in special plastic baskets is also convenient, which simplifies the task of clearing the area from faded tulips. Tulips in baskets bloom on our site in various places. Under lilac bushes, around apple trees, near hatches (plumbing and sewer) and in many other places. I can only dig up such a basket with a garden pitchfork so that it does not crack or break. It is easier if this product is not very wide and deep enough. Recently, I often use baskets for aquatic plants (garden pools and ponds).

These tulips grow in a bulb basket

A basket extracted from the ground is a true mini flower garden. It is heavy, so I take it to the semi-shady corner of the site where hazel trees grow, on a wheelbarrow, and not carry it in my hands. I do not remove adherent soil from the bottom. I sprinkle baskets on the sides with soil. Sometimes I dig in a short distance from the bush. Tulips will be there until early July. I also like this technique because it does not need to free the land from weeds under three huge bushes of hazel. Even dandelions and drowsiness disappear, which cannot sprout under the baskets with tulips. And a lot of them accumulate.

You could safely dig a basket with these faded tulips much earlier

P.S.

Such simple tricks make the life of an ordinary amateur grower easier. They will please both the "lazy" summer resident and the landscape designer. Professionals and amateurs seriously involved in the cultivation of tulips, this may seem barbaric.

But for me and many of my friends, the described options work fine. Simplified agricultural technology after flowering allows you to admire the delightful flowers of tulips, which do not grow on special ridges and individual flower beds, but flaunt in various places of the site.

The more tulips, the better. They so decorate the site!

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Spring sonorous marches on garden beds rang, bulbous crops, which flower growers were so pleased after a long winter with bright flowers, completed their march. The flowerbeds of faded tulips with drooping leaves look depressingly sad. Many try to plant seedlings of annuals in place of faded bulbous flowers as soon as possible.

But annual crops require frequent watering, which harms the bulbs ripening in the soil. To dig bulbs - early, not to dig - is bad for their development. This article is all about how to care for tulips after they bloom.

June: what to do with tulips

After flowering, the beauties wilt and look untidy. But at this time in the earth there is the formation of a substitute bulb and baby. If during this period it is incorrect to take care of plantings, you can lose many varieties.

After the final wilting of the flowers, it is necessary to remove all the peduncles on the plants. Watering the plants do not stop for another 10-15 days. Most quickly, the upper part of the plants withers at high temperature. At this time, you can not stop watering, especially if the plants are with green leaves. You can not carry out frequent heavy watering, it is enough to maintain the soil in a slightly moistened state.

At this time, it is useful to carry out the last top dressing; phosphorus-potassium compounds are added at the rate of 30 g per 1 m2. It is strictly forbidden to use preparations with a high content of nitrogen and chlorine to feed mature tulips.

How to increase the decorativeness of flower beds

When the aboveground part of the tulips fades, the process of bulb growth continues underground, it is not recommended to carry out abundant watering of such flower beds. I would like to quickly bring the flower garden into proper form, to increase the decorativeness of flower beds, for which portable containers with planted summers are often used. It is not recommended to prune yellow leaves if they are not completely wilted, otherwise the process of formation of the baby may completely stop. It is best to bend the leaves to the ground and cover them with decorative materials.

The soil around the pots can be mulched with colored bark or peat, which will not be difficult to remove when digging up tulips in the middle of summer.

In the period from the end of spring to the excavation of bulbs, flower beds will regain their finished decorative appearance. On the mulch, you can put decorative garden figures, which are easily cleaned if necessary.

Looks great in a cache-pot on a leg geranium, petunia, lobelia, nasturtium, tuberous, arabis, ampelous forms of snapdragons, left-handed.

When watering containers, water from drainage holes does not spread through the flowerbed where tulip bulbs form, so you can not be afraid of rotting young bulbs and children.

How not to lose a baby

If tulip bulbs are not dug up for several years, they go deep into the ground, get lost, deprived of the opportunity to grow through a huge layer of earth. In order for the varietal baby not to get lost, and the bulbs not to go deep, some measures need to be taken from the fall.

In autumn, when planting tulips in the ground, you can use special containers with bottom holes that limit the growth of the baby. In the summer, you just have to dig out the container, not a single bulb is lost.

If many tulip bulbs are planted in the autumn months, they select the top layer of soil on the flowerbed, dig a pit (depth up to 20 cm), line the bottom with a plastic net for windows, bringing its ends to the surface. A layer of fertile earth is poured over the net and the tulip bulbs are laid out with an interval of 5 cm. After the tulips bloom and the dormant period, the net is pulled out of the ground, raising all four corners at the same time. All tulips and the baby will remain in the mesh bag, not be lost and not injured with sharp tools.

When to start digging bulbs

You can start digging the bulbs only after thoroughly withering the aerial part of the plants, but it is best to conduct a trial operation by digging a few bulbs from different places on the flower bed.

The bulb scales should be covered with dark brown spots, the baby should be fully formed. On adult bulbs, the formed roots are visible.

Observe the basic rules:

They start work on a sunny day, if it began to rain at the scheduled time for work, the work can be brought to the end, but the bulbs are washed immediately and laid out for ventilation.
Dig the earth carefully - remember that the nest with the baby can be at a considerable distance from the central stem.
Particular attention should be paid to patients who have rotted and mummified bulbs, such material is immediately disposed of and burned.
Healthy bulbs are processed in a solution of potassium permanganate and dried. If there is a fear that tulip bulbs are affected by rot, it is worth discarding diseased bulbs and treating planting stock with preparations from rot and fungal infections.
To preserve the varietal signs of tulips, it is worth digging them up annually.

How to store bulbs until autumn

After digging, the tulip bulbs are sorted by variety and analysis, after which they are dried in partial shade in air. So that the planting material of tulips is well preserved until the autumn planting, the bulbs are laid out in boxes with ventilation holes.

For about a month, the bulbs are dried at a temperature of 23-25 \u200b\u200b° C, humidity up to 70% in rooms with good ventilation. Gradually, the storage temperature of planting material is reduced:

August- set the temperature to 20 ° C.
September - the temperature is lowered to 15-17 ° C.

Compliance with the temperature regime is fundamental for the development of tulips for the next year, because flower buds and the formation of peduncles occurs just in the last summer months.

Do not neglect the visual inspection of the bulbs, so you can immediately notice the rotten and diseased specimens that must be immediately destroyed.

Already in September and October, tulips and a baby are again planted on flower beds in the garden in order to enjoy a bright carpet from charming spring flowers grown from their own bulbs in early spring.

Despite the fact that tulips can be found in almost every garden with the advent of spring, not everyone knows how to care for tulips, from the appearance of the first tender shoots to the moment when all the flowers fade and the stems dry out.

Care for tulips from the moment of planting until the first buds appear

Tulips are quite persistent and unpretentious perennial plants, however, errors in caring for them throughout the growing season can very well lead to problems such as rotting of bulbs, an abundance of blind (non-blooming) buds, as well as the curvature of thin stems, giving the impression as if they were lying on a plot.

Tulips are quite resistant and unpretentious perennials

The first thing you need to take care of in order to significantly increase the chances of getting healthy tulips with flawless flowers: choose a suitable sunny place with loose, fertile soil for planting tulips and. If you do not pay attention to sorting planting material, selecting the best quality bulbs and pre-planting them, in the future you are unlikely to avoid damaging the tulips with diseases, which means that the hassle will noticeably increase.

Video about spring tulip care

The appearance, size of the flowers and the health of the tulips themselves will depend on what bulbs you plant on flower beds. Therefore, choose large bulbs without the slightest sign of rot, strong and smooth.

Delicate shoots of tulips emerge from under the snow from about the twentieth of March to mid-April, depending on weather conditions and on the characteristics of the variety. In the event that for the winter you mulched the planting of bulbs, it is recommended to remove the mulch after the snow has melted - this way the earth will warm up faster and the flowering of tulips will begin earlier.

The appearance will depend on which bulbs you plant on the flower beds

What is required from a gardener after sprouting tulips:

At the stage of germination of tulip sprouts, they should be carefully examined to immediately determine which bulbs did not sprout, which plants showed signs of disease. The revealed “marriage” needs to be dug up and immediately destroyed, otherwise the diseases can go to the remaining tulips.
Around the small shoots of tulips that have appeared, the earth is gently loosened, increasing the access of necessary oxygen to the roots and helping to reduce the evaporation of moisture from the earth. In general, the care of tulips in the garden implies regular loosening of the soil throughout the entire growing season, and especially after watering and rains.
Before flowering, tulips should be watered fairly moderately, but the soil should never dry out.
The first top dressing is carried out, as soon as the sprouts appear from the ground. During this period, tulips especially need nitrogen for rapid growth and leaf formation. For feeding, you can use nitroammophos or crystallin with the addition of trace elements in tablets.
The following dressing is not necessary, but tulip tulips will be more useful than harm from the introduction of complex mineral fertilizers when the second or third leaf is unfolded.

The first top dressing is carried out, as soon as the sprouts appear from the ground

During budding, tulips absorb nutrients from the soil most efficiently and are in dire need of potassium and phosphorus for the normal formation of a peduncle with buds. Fertilizing at this time should contain more phosphorus with potassium and less nitrogen.
When the buds begin to bloom, you can again feed the tulips with full mineral fertilizer.

Top dressing must be done very carefully so as not to damage the roots or burn the leaves, so it is best to combine it with watering or on a rainy day. The first top dressing should not be scattered in the snow, as it comes off unevenly. It is more advisable to make top dressing in the form of solutions.

The main actions during the flowering of tulips

When the buds begin to open one by one, and magnificent flowers appear on the flowerbed, tulips require special care. Water them abundantly, spending 10 liters of water per square meter, so that moisture penetrates to the roots, and the water should not be cold. When watering and fertilizing in sunny weather, moisture should not fall on the leaves and especially on the flowers to avoid burns.

During the abundant flowering of tulips, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers must be applied, the proportion of nitrogen should be minimal or you can completely do without it. Trace elements such as boron, zinc, manganese will be useful - they have a beneficial effect on the condition of tulips in general and on the development of bulbs.

During the abundant flowering of tulips, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers must be applied

Experienced flower growers during the flowering of tulips carry out sorting (transplantation of impurities of other varieties to maintain the purity of a particular variety) and phytopurification (removal of diseased plants from plantings). Blooming tulips need regular inspection so that plants infected with diseases can be immediately destroyed. Especially dangerous is the viral disease of the variegation of tulips.

It is incurable and is transmitted with the sap of plants during cutting, so garden tools need to be decontaminated with alcohol or potassium permanganate. During the budding and flowering of tulips, it is easiest to identify.

Do not forget to loosen the soil between the tulips after each watering, in order to prevent the formation of crust on the soil and at the same time to destroy weeds that are extremely undesirable for tulips.

Tulips have faded - what to do next?

Unfortunately, the flowering of tulips does not last very long, and after a few days the magnificent flowers begin to fade, reducing the aesthetic appeal of the flowerbed. The fastest tulips bloom in hot, dry weather. Nevertheless, even if all the flowers have already withered, continue to water the plantings for another two weeks, because at this time there is an intensive formation of bulbs underground - due to regular watering, they better accumulate nutrients.

So that the yellowing tulips do not spoil your garden with their dull appearance, plant the bulbs in special baskets or containers - then the flowering plants can be dug together with containers and removed from the flower bed in another place for the ripening of the bulbs.

To prevent yellowing tulips from spoiling your garden with their dull appearance, plant bulbs in special baskets or containers

Caring for tulips after flowering is based on the following rules:

if you plan to propagate the variety you like and grow large healthy bulbs for this, cut the flower heads on the fourth or eighth day after blooming (when the flowers are ready to crumble), then the bulbs will begin to intensively increase their mass;
all fallen petals must be removed immediately, otherwise they will accumulate in the axils of the leaves and rot;
it is impossible to cut the stems of faded tulips until they turn yellow at all, otherwise the bulbs will stop their development;
you can find out if the bulbs have ripened by digging one of them - the formed roots and brown spots on the scales indicate that the bulb is ready;
dig the bulbs carefully, lowering the shovel deeply so as not to accidentally injure the roots, try to do this on a sunny day to be able to dry the dug bulbs on the street.

The harvested bulbs are sorted, processed and sent for storage. First, the future planting material is stored at a temperature of +20 degrees, and from the second half of August - at +17 degrees.

Video about caring for tulips after flowering

In the fall, choosing, the bulbs are planted on prepared beds and abundantly watered. Caring for tulips in the fall also consists in preparing the plants for winter. To do this, in mid-October, planted bulbs are fed with ammonium nitrate, the bed is mulched with a small layer of peat and covered with the onset of cold weather.

Not all gardeners agree that tulip bulbs need to be replanted annually, however, thanks to a transplant, the flowers remain large, beautiful, and less suffer from diseases.