Why do dracaena leaves are down. The ends of the leaves have dried dracaena: plant diseases and what to do if they fall and fall. What to do with a broken dracaena palm

Dracaena is considered a very unpretentious indoor plant. She does not need special care. But in order for the flower to please the eye as long as possible with its splendor and beauty, respond in time to any changes in its appearance. What are the drooped leaves of dracaena talking about?

We will analyze what causes this problem and what needs to be done to solve it.

There may be several reasons:

improper watering;
not suitable in size pot;
nutrient deficiency;
lack of moisture;
drafts and broken temperature;
the plant was frozen.

Watering

The soil should be moist, not moist. The plant is watered with settled water at room temperature, when the earthen lump dries by about 2 cm. The irrigation regimen is 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in the pot, pour expanded clay or coarse-grained sand on its bottom with a layer of 3-4 cm, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from decay. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.

In the hot summer period, the flower needs to be sprayed. To wash off the dust and refresh it, we recommend once a month to put the plant in the shower, covering the ground with cellophane. After bathing the leaf growth point, blot with a napkin.

Close pot

The second reason that the leaves are constantly lowered down may be an improperly sized flower pot. If it is small, then plant nutrition is difficult. Roots need space. Check the tightness of their fit to the walls of the pot. If necessary, transplant a flower.

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

Lower leaflets may fall down due to insufficient nutrients. In a tight pot with a very developed root system, the earth quickly becomes poorer, the upper crown grows due to the lower foliage. During the period of active growth from April to September 1-2 times a month, feed the roots with pre-selected fertilizers. When watering, you can use liquid fertilizers according to the instructions.

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.

A flower loves moist air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the pot on a pallet with water so that the bottom of the pot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.

Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. Evergreen palm up to 35 years old is considered to be young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

Among indoor plants, dracaena, which is sometimes called the "false palm", is very popular among gardeners.

Attracts a deep, rich color of its leaves, the splendor of the crown.

However, if the plant begins to "leaf fall", then everything is for real, without "false modesty" - from its former beauty in a matter of days there may be one bare stem.

To prevent this from happening (although the reasons can sometimes be objective, and they can not be avoided), you need to carefully monitor the condition of the green pet and, having felt something was wrong, take measures.

The main problems in dracaena, as in most cultures whose homeland is the tropics, are associated with acclimatization. In an ordinary city apartment the plant often lacks heat and humidity. Both that, and another dracaena need to be given in addition, and to do it competently, without going to extremes.

If you find that the dracaena has a soft trunk and leaves are falling, the bark has become wrinkled, so you went too far with watering.

If the leaves begin to curl or turn into a tube (this may mean that the plant died) - therefore, you could not provide the green pet with a comfortable temperature, you did not save him from sudden transitions from one microclimate to another.

Problems to the flower are also created by diseases and pests, which must be learned to recognize in a timely manner.

Of all the varieties, the threat of “baldness” most often arises in Marginata, in other varieties this problem is less pronounced. The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall may be as follows:

natural aging (leaves of this culture live from 2 to 3 years);
water scarcity;
cold air, drafts.

To help the plant, it’s important to figure out which of the reasons your flower is ruining.

If it is aging, then this is an objective and unregulated process. Fortunately, nature provided that at the same time all the leaves of the dracaena will not leave - those of them whose maturity has approached will begin to turn yellow, then curl, blacken and fall off. After some time, new, healthy leaves will appear in the vacated places.

In case of lack of water, massive leaf fall does not occur either.

The difference is that the aged leaves dry out completely, and the fallen leaves, due to the scarcity of watering, still partially retain their vitality.

If the gardener overdoses with watering, the plant begins lose green leaves - this is due to the fact that the roots rotted in waterlogged soil and the plant dies.

Temperature discomfort (especially cold, draft) is expressed in the loss of green foliage by the plant.

If yellowness on the leaves appears like gray hair in a person, for natural reasons, it may not capture the whole sheet, but its tips. In this case, specialists recommend trimming by removing only the yellowed part and leaving healthy. This will preserve the decorativeness of the culture.

Often the problem arises due to the fact that the plant does not have enough sun. Most varieties have enough soft, diffused light, and even a short winter day does not have a negative effect on them. However, in some cases, dracaena can not do without backlighting and informs the owner about the yellowing of its leaves.

A similar reaction occurs due to excessive irrigation. And if the dracaena has fallen leaves and yellowed, this may be due to a lack of nutrients in the soil. It is especially dangerous to keep a flower on a starvation diet during its active growth - from April to the end of August.

CAUTION:if water regularly remains in the axils of the leaves after watering and spraying, this can cause a color change from green to yellow.

This trouble can happen even with young foliage, if the flower grows in the same pot, without replacing the soil, 3-4 years.

Salts accumulate in it, due to which the plant is not able to fully absorb nutrients, even if the owner regularly feeds his pet.

Suction roots, the main conductor of nutrients in the flower’s body, die from salinity.

Due to malnutrition, the tips of old leaves also dry out. In addition, the problem may lie in the structure of the soil - if it is clayey, heavy, poorly transmitting water.

ATTENTION:the tips of the leaves sometimes begin to dry due to a supersaturation of the soil with fluorine. This element is part of fertilizers for tropical crops, which should be used exactly according to the instructions so as not to harm the flower.

Never reassure yourself with the phrase that “there are spots in the sun”: spots on dracaena leaves pose a threat to flower health and most often appear due to insufficient care for the plant, and their color helps determine the essence of the problem. This is what they are talking about:

If the trunk of the dracaena wrinkled, the leaves began to fall, the probability of mistakes that the owner made, most likely by inexperience, was high. The main thing is to have time to fix them in time.

Among the most common mistakes:

wrong, too generous watering (in fact, the soil in the pot between the waterings should dry out, control its condition by sticking a thin wooden stick into the ground);
high air dryness (remove the flower away from heating appliances);
insufficient lighting (the plant needs to be provided with additional highlighting);
exposure to cold air (frozen leaves will help "wash" with warm water);
lack of nutrients (get fertilizer in the form of a stick in a flower shop and stick it in the soil - your pet will regularly receive top dressings in the volume necessary for him).

ATTENTION:if the leaves turn yellow after an unsuccessful transplant, help the flower recover by spraying the soil with Epin.

Specialists (in order to prevent various diseases) recommend add potassium and phosphorus to fertilizers. Unfortunately, this is not enough to avoid diseases completely.

Dracaena diseases can be:

Pests affecting dracaena can be in the soil or get on it from neighboring, already infected plants. Signs of ill health are cobwebs, specks, sticky plaque. Among the pests:

This video talks about another pest of dracaena and how to deal with it:

How to reanimate dracaena, if the trunk is fragile, the bark wrinkles, and the leaves begin to rot? Required "Surgical intervention" in the form of cuttings: cut off the top of the dracaena and either immediately root it in the ground, or put it in a container of water so that the roots appear. This usually takes 2 months.

If the poor condition of the dracaena is associated with dry air, bring the pet back to life a warm shower will help. So that the water does not flood the roots, the pot should be placed in a plastic bag and tighten its edges around the trunk.

If the stem (and subsequently a full-fledged plant) has been standing in the water for too long, its trunk may turn yellow. This is because the aquatic environment contributes to the activation of bacteria, and the changed color of the trunk is an indication that the plant may die. You can avoid this development by urgently replacing the dracaena in a pot of earth.

A plant affected by cold air will be saved by a few sprays of warm water and placing the pot in a draft-protected place. In cases where the temperature dropped below 15 degrees Celsius, there is a great danger that the roots were affected. If the check shows that it turned out that way and the roots began to rot, they are removed and the dracaena is transplanted into a new pot. In cases when there are practically no healthy roots, the top of the flower is cut off and root.
What to do with a broken dracaena

The broken lignified part of the stem is fairly easy to root. To do this, you need to cut the place of the scrap with a sharp knife (the cut should be horizontal), hold it in the air for a while to dry it, and lower it into a container of water, where an activated carbon tablet is added (it will protect the future plant from decay).

The remaining part of the stem in the pot can also be saved. The fracture site is neatly trimmed and filled with wax. After a short time, shoots will appear on the sides of the stem.

If the broken is not lignified, but a green shoot, it is recommended to root it in moss or in the sand. In order for the roots to form faster, the tip of the shoot is processed in the “Kornevin” preparation, and in the future they will organize artificial heating (the best temperature is 25 degrees).

TIP:if the stalk selected for rooting is very small, they stick it into the ground and cover it with a glass jar, providing a greenhouse effect.

Due to its tropical appearance, dracaena decorates the home interior and is widely used in the design of office premises. The plant is considered unpretentious and resistant to disease. But if you notice problems when growing this "palm", you need to respond urgently. First you need to accurately diagnose the disease, and then immediately proceed to the treatment of the disease.

Optimal home environment for growing dracaena

Dracaena is a beautiful tropical plant native to Africa, Asia and South America. Externally, the plant looks like a palm tree, but in fact it is not, but belongs to the asparagus family.

In nature, you can find multi-meter specimens with lignified trunks, long wide leaves of green color or with stripes of different shades.

In total, there are about 150 species of plants. The most popular are Dragon, Fragrant, Massangeana, Marginata (bordered), Deremskaya, Bent, Sandera (lucky bamboo), etc.

Varieties of dracaena - photo gallery

Dracaena Dracaena has variegated leaves Dracaena Dragon has as sharp as teeth of a legendary animal, leaves Dracaena Unbent leaves are bent upwards It is believed that Dracaena Sandera, or lucky bamboo, attracts luck Dracaena Massangeana has a strong tree-like trunk
Dracaena Marginata more than other species resembles a palm tree

Knowing the features of the growing conditions, it is easy to avoid the disease dracaena:

Dracaena diseases can be fungal, bacterial or viral.

We diagnose infectious diseases - table

Symptom	Care Error	Disease
Round stains of brown hues appear on the stem and leaves, later fungal spores form in their place and the lesion site turns black.	Fungal spores got into the soil, excess moisture	Alternariosis
The tips of the leaves dry out, spots with black dots appear inside.	Excessive watering, cold room, heavy soil	Phyllosticosis
Oblong spots are beige, yellow with a red or brown edging, a green coating is possible, the leaves quickly turn yellow and dry.	Improper irrigation regimen, infection in the ground	Heterosporosis
Spots of various shapes, brown stripes, deformation of young shoots.	Weakened immunity due to improper conditions	Spotted wilt
Yellow stripes on the leaves and moist brown plaque (rot) at the tips, ulcers on the petioles and stems.	Heavy soil, waterlogged soil, high alkali content in the substrate	Bacteriosis

Most dracenes are susceptible to fungal diseases. The most common of these are alternariosis and phylosticosis. As a rule, the disease occurs with high air humidity and excess moisture in the soil. Also, the cause of the disease is spores of fungi that could be in the soil or were introduced from the outside. For example, unsterilized garden equipment that has previously come into contact with an infected plant can become a carrier of an infectious disease.

If dracaena is transplanted into heavy garden soil, it is often and plentifully watered with running unsteady water, with a high degree of probability this will lead to a bacterial disease. Of all species of dracaena, Dracaena is most susceptible to bacteriosis.. This beauty is especially popular with amateur gardeners for the colorful leaves and the difference in their colors. However, these leaves are also often chosen by bacteria and fungus.

Professional gardeners note that dracaena is quite resistant to viral diseases. But still, rarely does a flower strike a spotted wilt. This virus can infect a plant in which immunity is already weakened. For example, immunity is reduced if the flower suffers for a long time from improper care or is damaged by insect pests. With a viral infection, dracaena stops growing and begins to fade.

Dracaena diseases - photo gallery

With phyllosticosis, the tips of the leaves dry. With alternariosis, the leaves can become brown stained. Spotted wilting leads to the fact that the plant can rot. Heterosporosis is determined by a green coating. With bacteriosis, the plant rots, the stem can become covered with ulcers

Dracaena insects - table

Symptoms	Pest	Treatment
On the inner side of the leaves there are dark (red) spots entangled in cobwebs; when the tick multiplies, white sticky plaque and white larvae appear on the leaves, trunk (similar to white sticks).	Wash sheets with hot soapy water (50 ° C), treat with acaricide. Repeat the procedure after 7 days
The sheet is covered with a silver film, black dots, similar to scratches, form inside the sheet; a sticky coating appears, the sheet bends and dries out.	Thrips	Spray three times with an insecticide (Decis) with an interval of 1-2 weeks
Withered dry foliage, the inside is covered with sticky mucus, beige and brown swollen spots inside the leaf plate.	Shield	Wash leaves with soapy water and spray with an insecticide (Fitoverm or Intavir)
White plaque, similar to the accumulation of cotton shreds or white sticks, is located in large groups on the leaves and sinuses, the leaves dry and deform, covered with sticky colorless drops.	Mealybug	Remove insects with soapy water, treat twice with an insecticide with an interval of 2 weeks
Leaves turn yellow, curl, dry out, sticky coating, there are many white dots on the underside of the leaf and stems (aphid larvae can also be yellow, green or black, depending on the species).	Aphid	Spray with insecticides up to 3 times with an interval of 2 weeks

Pests of indoor plants - photo gallery

The leaf is covered with a silver film with black dots inside. The mealybug looks outwardly like a cluster of cotton swabs. Aphids look like white specks.

We solve problems

The health problems of dracaena can be completely different. Let's try to figure out what needs to be done in each case. Let's start with the leaves.

If dark spots appear on the leaves, perhaps the plant suffers from excessive watering and stagnation of water in the pan. It is necessary to check the condition of the roots of the plant.

If the roots of the plant are completely rotted, the trunk of the dracaena becomes soft. This phenomenon can occur as a result of frequent and abundant watering of the soil. The plant is unlikely to be able to cure. The recommended temperature for healthy plant growth is from 16 to 25 ° C.

Rotting trunk of dracaena may be the result of frequent watering

If the trunk froze and became soft

Staying for a long time in drafts, outdoors or indoors, where the air temperature is below 18 degrees, dracaena freezes.

If the top is frozen, you need to cut it to a healthy trunk

At the same time, the stem of the plant may still remain alive (firm and firm to the touch), and the leaves become limp and lowered. They can’t be saved. If the top of the dracaena dropped, you need to rejuvenate the trunk:

Cut off the crown with a clean knife until the beginning of the living (dense) tissue. Discard the top, and sprinkle the place of the cut on the trunk with crushed coal.
Place the pot with the plant in a sunny place in a warm room (temperature 22–25 ° C). Eliminate the possibility of drafts.
Pour the flower with a complex fertilizer diluted half as much as indicated in the instructions.
Every week, spray the trunk and soil with a growth stimulator for plants.
Observe the correct watering regime and wait for the dracaena to recover and give side kidneys.

If the tip is broken

What to do if the top of the dracaena is broken and a healthy long trunk remains:

If the trunk is too long or crooked

There are times when the dracaena is rapidly growing: the trunk grows in height quickly, but in itself is thin and not strong enough. This can happen if the dracaena is completely satisfied with the conditions of her detention, but she is standing in a poorly lit place. For example, the trunk quickly becomes thin and long at the dracaena of the Bordered and Deremsky.

There is no need to rush to say goodbye to your favorite plant, because one can be done from one in such situations. Dracaena can be performed anti-aging pruning and divide the trunk into several parts:

How to treat Dracaena from lesions - details

To combat fungal diseases, the flower must be carefully treated with a fungicide. It is also advisable to transplant the plant and replace the infected soil with sterilized soil.

The use of fungicides in fungal diseases

For treatment, it is recommended to use a solution of Fundazole in the proportions of 10 grams per 500 ml of water. Spray the infected tree once every 2 weeks, repeat the procedure three times. An alternative to Fundazole can be the treatment of a sick plant with Topaz or another drug that contains copper. All procedures are carried out strictly according to the instructions and in a well-ventilated area.

Fundazole is used for any fungal infections of plants.

For the prevention of fungal diseases of dracaena, it is necessary to avoid waterlogging of the soil, cool and dark rooms, contact with untreated garden tools.

Viral infections and bacterial diseases of dracaena are currently considered incurable. Unfortunately, a diseased plant must be destroyed so as not to infect other indoor flowers.

Transplantation into sterile soil

With fungal diseases or with the development of root rot from waterlogging or freezing of an earthen coma, the roots begin to rot in the plant, fungal spores multiply in the soil. To get rid of them, dracaena needs to be transplanted into sterile soil.

Procedure:

Pull the flower out of the pot, completely free the root system from contaminated soil under running water.
With a clean knife, cut off rotten roots (they will be soft to the touch) to healthy parts and treat with Fitosporin solution (dilute the paste according to the instructions).
Place the finished substrate for dracaena in a heated oven for 10 minutes; for sterilization, the temperature regime should be set to 200 degrees. Cool.
To restore and build up the root system, choose a smaller pot for the flower (3 cm in diameter and less than the previous height). Add a layer of expanded clay, sterilized soil and plant dracaena in the usual way.

How to use insecticides

Leaves of dracaena are attacked by a scab, a spider mite and other pests, especially if the flower is in a cool room with dry air.

Actellik - one of the most popular insecticides. The drug Aktara has a hazard class 3 (moderately dangerous for humans). Fitoverm is considered the least dangerous drug from pests.

As a rule, treatment with folk remedies helps in the fight against spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, and scabies and thrips are destroyed after treatment with insecticides.

Green soap helps in the care of dracaena

Resuscitation of Dying Dracaena

If the dracaena has been ignored for a long time and already has a dying appearance, it is still worth trying to save it.

If the bottom of the plant has rotted

With frequent and plentiful watering, the roots rot in the dracaena, and later the trunk and the top rot. This situation can be called hopeless, the plant can only be thrown away. In rare cases, the leaves and part of the trunk may not have time to suffer, then you need to try to save the crown and root it like an apical stem:

With a sharp knife, cut off the apical shoot with part of the trunk (healthy and strong). The top should have a healthy appearance: the leaves are dense, and the trunk is solid. Make a cut perpendicular to the trunk, sprinkle the place of cut with crushed coal.
Leave the resulting stalk in the air for two hours, so that the cut point is slightly dry.
Place the handle in a transparent glass with settled water at room temperature and add a root stimulant, for example, Kornevin. Dilute half as much as indicated in the instructions.
Put a glass with a handle on a sunny windowsill.
As necessary (if it blooms), change the water in a glass, add.
When roots more than 5 cm appear, plant the dracaena in a small pot, deepening the cuttings with roots 2 cm in the sterilized soil.

If the top is dry

If the dracaena has not been watered for a long time, for example, during a long vacation, the plant can lose all leaves from a lack of moisture, and the growth point itself can dry out.

Drying of the growth point is irreversible and requires trimming of dracaena

In this case, there is still a chance to save the plant. For this:

First of all, the dracaena needs to arrange “bath procedures”. In order to wet the earthen lump well and uniformly and revitalize the root system, the flower pot should be placed in a basin for half an hour with standing warm water (water should be at room temperature).
The dried-up top should be cut with a sharp knife and discarded, treat the cut site with activated powdered charcoal and wait for the side (sleeping) kidneys to wake up.
Think about the height at which to trim the trunk so that the plant is aesthetically pleasing.
Spray the flower once a week with a plant growth stimulator, for example, Epin.
Watering should be moderate 1 time per week, while twice a month to make complex fertilizers for dracaena.
Put the pot with the plant 2 meters from the solar window so that the scattered rays of the sun fall on the plant.
A month later, dracaena should appear new leaves from the side buds.

When caring for and rehabilitation of a plant, observe the following rules:

Dracaena is one of the most popular home flowers, used not only as an indoor plant, but also as an office plant. To ensure a flower's long life, you need to know the general rules for caring for it; it is especially important to recognize diseases on time. A serious and obvious symptom of ill health is leaf fall. Find out why this is happening and how to solve this problem.

Why Dracaena drops leaves: the main reasons

Homeland dracaena are tropical forests. Externally, the flower resembles a palm tree: it has a straight stem that ends with a rosette of long leaves growing 20-60 cm in length.

Dracaena is a flower that tends to drop leaves, but this is not a natural process. With a large loss of leaves, the plant dies, so this problem should cause immediate intervention by the gardener.

Did you know? « Dracaena» translated from the ancient Greek language as« dragon female". Also called shrub« dragon tree» . The name comes from a legend that long ago, two giants - a dragon and an elephant - converged in battle. The dragon was crushed by an elephant, and in the place where drops of his blood fell, huge trees with a magnificent crown grew.

In addition, it is precisely decorative qualities that are highly valued in dracaena, and the loss of deciduous cover will deprive the flower of its main content advantage.
The main reasons for falling leaves are:

It should be borne in mind that dracaena itself throws off the leaves, if it is no longer a young plant. The maximum lifespan of dracaena is 15 years; when approaching this age, leaf fall is a natural process.

Violation of conditions

If the plants wilted and fell off in a short time, and the trunk began to rot and dry, it is necessary to change the conditions of the flower.

Good growth will be ensured by such parameters of care:

Temperature. The plant loves a temperature of + 20–25 ° C in the summer. And in the cold season, the minimum allowable temperature is + 16 ° C. If you keep the flower at a lower temperature, it will stop growing and fall into suspended animation.
Lighting. Dracaena loves the sun, since the plant was brought from the sunny tropics, however, direct rays are harmful to it. It is best to place the pot in partial shade. The most sensitive to light are variegated dracaena.
Location in the house. Since direct rays are undesirable for the plant, it is best to place it on the east or west side of the house. Most often located on the windowsills.
Pruning. A necessary process for the growth of lateral buds of a tree. The flower must be at least 30 cm high - only then can it be cut. You can remove leaves in spring or summer.
Moisturizing. A tropical plant requires plenty of moisture, especially in winter, during the heating season. To do this, you need to do air spraying near the flower pot.

Improper maintenance of the shrub at room conditions leads to the fact that it loses its natural beauty and color of leaves, the shape of the bush, the health of the trunk and root system. Therefore, before you buy such a plant, it is important to familiarize yourself with the rules of its cultivation in advance.

Lack or excess of fertilizer

Complex fertilizers are used as top dressing for dracaena. They must be given a flower twice a month, during the period of active growth, from approximately March to early September.

In gardening shops you can buy special fertilizers for dracaena: "Rainbow", "Ideal", "Dracaena."

The lack of trace elements, especially potassium, leads to the fact that the flower is covered with bronze spots and stripes. And from an excess of fertilizing, the roots and stem of the dracaena can rot.

Important!The abundance of fertilizers containing fluoride can lead to loss of color of leaves and their fall.

Wrong watering

Watering is the main way to nourish the shrub with water. To prevent the death of dracaena, you need to remember that she loves abundant watering, but it is not necessary to fill it too much, otherwise the root system will become waterlogged and begin to rot, and with it the stem.

In summer, dracaena is watered once every two to three days, while checking whether the earth has dried up at the base of the stem. Water is used at room temperature. Additionally, water is sprayed from the spray near the plant, thus moistening the air next to it. Withering leaves is a signal that you need to water more often.

In winter, the flower rests, and he needs watering every 3-4 days. However, if your plant stands on a windowsill under a battery, it needs to be watered more often. It is necessary to focus on the soil: if it has already dried up and you do not see wet spots - then you can water the pot again.

Transplant root damage

Since the root system of dracaena grows rapidly, very soon the gardener will be faced with the need to transplant it into a new pot. For a flower with a height of about 40 centimeters, a container with a diameter of 15 centimeters is needed.

The roots of the shrub are quite strong, but nevertheless, when separating the stems, it is important not to damage them, otherwise the plant will not develop further.

Important!A transplant should not be done more often than once every 2-3 years.

It is better to carry out the procedure in late March - early April. When replanting, do not forget to keep the drainage layer in the pot so that the bush does not have an excess of moisture.

Pests and diseases

Diseases and pests can nullify any efforts of the gardener. To prevent this from happening, you need to be able to determine their symptoms in time.

Did you know? According to the ancient Aztec legend, the cut trunk of the dracaena in the full moon will bring happiness and love.

How to save a plant

If you notice signs of illness or a sharp fall of leaves in your dracaena, you need to decide how to reanimate the shrub.

In order not to treat bush diseases, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures in time to prevent diseases.

Important!Note that each year a flower drops a small amount of yellowed leaves from the bottom of the stem to prepare for the winter season. This is a natural process.

When planting in a pot, make a drainage system. In this way, you provide the roots with protection against excess water.
The flower does not tolerate drafts, but dies at low temperature. Therefore, in the cold season, make sure that the plant does not freeze.
Dracaena is a moisture-loving bush, and requires increased humidity of air and soil. Do not miss watering the plants even in the winter season.
Also, do not apply too much fertilizer to the soil so that the leaves do not fall. In this case, it is better to add less minerals so as not to burden the soil.

Dracaena is an exotic plant that at any time of the year will remind you of the sea, palm trees and relaxation. It is not difficult to grow it, you just need to follow the basic rules of maintenance. And even if the plant was struck by the disease, it is important to help him in time, eliminating the cause of the falling leaves.

Dracaena - although this is not a very whimsical houseplant, nevertheless, it requires compliance with individual care rules: the appropriate temperature, humidity level and so on. A critical violation of these rules can provoke various plant ailments that are reflected not only in the appearance and which can lead to the death of dracaena. One of the common problems, the causes and solutions of which will be discussed below, is the omission of the leaves of the plant, which usually grow up.

The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall

The most likely include:

Excessively cold temperature in the room (in particular, exacerbated by drafts). The optimum temperature for the growth and development of the plant is from 18 to 24 ° C above zero. Lower temperatures can cause the leaves to drop. In order to avoid this or to cope with the problem that has already arisen, it is necessary to remove the plant from the place where it can be purged with drafts, and also to create the optimal above-mentioned temperature regime in the room.
Excessive soil moisture. It can be triggered by frequent watering or an excessively wide pot, contributing to stagnation of moisture. This requires two basic rules. The first is to avoid frequent watering and allow the soil to dry between watering, the second - you need to choose a pot that is deep enough, but with a small diameter (for a plant up to 15 centimeters tall, the optimal diameter of the pot is 10 to 15 centimeters; the height of the pot is 12-15 centimeters) .
Lack of moisture for the outer surface of the leaves. Dracaena receives part of the nutrition and hydration through the surface of the leaves. In this regard, once every two to three days it is required to spray the leaves from the spray with water at room temperature.
Lack of oxygen saturation. First of all, it is important to maintain oxygen saturation of the soil. For this, drainage is created when planting / replanting dracaena. And it is also necessary to carry out periodic loosening of the soil.
Excessive use of fertilizers. For the growth and development of dracaena, it is advisable to use organic fertilizers in small quantities - peat, manure, humus and so on. Mineral fertilizers can be completely abandoned and used only if there are symptoms of a particular disease of dracaena, due to a lack of certain nutrients.
Exposure to direct sunlight can also cause yellowing and dropping of dracaena leaves. The plant loves light, but does not tolerate direct sunlight, which can contribute to the degradation and death of the plant. Dracaena should be in a lit room, but not on the sunny side of the room.