Why do dracaena fall leaves down. What to do and why dracaena drops leaves. Rooting cuttings of dracaena

Dracaena is a spectacular evergreen. It can be found both in apartments and in office premises. Amateur gardeners and designers, she is appreciated for its attractiveness and unpretentiousness. However, despite the undemanding and lack of whims, dracaena suffers from unintentional errors in care, attacks of pathogenic fungi, bacteria, viruses and harmful insects. This negatively affects her presentability. Therefore, you need to know what symptoms are characteristic of a particular disease or pest, and how to deal with them.

How to create an optimal microclimate in dracaena

Dracaena is quite unpretentious, and there is nothing complicated in creating an optimal microclimate for her at home. But the requirements of the plant should still be listened to, trying to create an atmosphere as close as possible to the one to which it is used in nature.

Dracaena - a popular (not least because of its unpretentiousness) houseplant

Table: Suitable conditions for growing dracaena

Factor	Recommendations
Location	Nearby (1–2 m) from a window facing east or west. Putting close to the south window is not recommended to avoid sunburn. In summer, if the dimensions allow, you can move the container to fresh air. Dracaena loves him, but does not tolerate cold drafts.
Lighting	Diffused light or light partial shade. Species with variegated leaves are more demanding on lighting. All dracaena can exist in fully artificial light if daylight hours last at least 12 hours.
Temperature	In spring and summer - moderately warm (20–25ºС). Dracaena does not tolerate heat well. In winter it is slightly lowered - to 17–19ºС. The lower limit is 15ºС. Exceptions are fragrant dracaena, Hooker, Dragon (they suffer a short-term decrease to 10ºС). All species react negatively to sudden changes in temperature. A difference of 10 ° C or more can lead to the death of the plant.
Air humidity	Normally exists with a standard air humidity of 40-50% (especially dracones of Dragon and Godsphere are undemanding to it), but with gratitude responds to any measures to increase it. The only thing you should not do is pour water into the sump. In winter, working radiators dry the air very much, therefore, it is recommended to spray the surrounding air with warm water once every 2-3 days. In the summer, in the heat, you can spray the plant itself, but so that the drops do not fall into sockets, or arrange a shower by covering the soil with polyethylene. Be sure to wipe the leaves with a wet cloth or sponge at least once a week.

Choose a place near the window to the dracaena, it is very difficult to put it on the windowsill because of the dimensions

In addition to the optimal microclimate, a great influence on how the plant feels is provided by timely top dressing and the correct watering regimen.

In summer, you need to allow the soil in the pot to dry about 4-5 cm deep. This can be determined by sticking a wooden stick in the pot. One procedure in 2-3 days is enough. In winter, intervals are increased to 5–7 days. In wet soil, when cool, rot quickly develops. Broad-leaved dracaena need to be watered more often - they have a larger evaporation area. An obvious signal is drooping, toned leaves. And do not forget to loosen the soil after each procedure.

It will also be useful material about the conditions of keeping Dracaena Sander:

As for top dressing, there are special fertilizers for dracaena. The tree is watered with a nutrient solution every 20-30 days, after about half an hour it is well moistened with soil. If a universal tool for indoor plants is used, pay attention to the composition. Excess phosphorus and nitrogen can lead to poor leaf appearance. And dracaena categorically does not tolerate fluoride.

Video: keeping and caring for a flower at home

Diseases and pests typical for dracaena and their prevention

Dracaena, which is properly looked after, is quite resistant to damage by various pathogenic fungi, viruses and bacteria. Most often, this kind of plant problem is the result of unintentional host mistakes. An invasion of pests, even a massive one, is also unlikely to lead to its death, but it will cause a lot of trouble to the grower.

The most dangerous for it are all kinds of rot, as well as bacterial and viral diseases, which cannot be cured with modern means. In this case, the plant needs to be destroyed as quickly as possible, no matter how sorry it is. Otherwise, you may lose the entire collection.

Most often, to avoid problems with dracaena, competent prevention is enough:

quarantine for newly acquired plants for 25-30 days;
regular inspections of the entire collection (ideally through a magnifying glass) and immediate isolation of “suspicious” specimens;
free, without crowding, placement of pots;
frequent airing of the room and maintaining high humidity;
placing indoor and cut flowers as far apart as possible, especially if it is roses or chrysanthemums;
mandatory sterilization before using pots, substrate, any tools;
treatment of all "wounds" inflicted on dracaena in;
implementation of recommendations for plant care, especially those related to irrigation and fertilizing;
maintaining cleanliness - regular dusting from leaves and other authorized water procedures.

Diagnose a problem

The plant gives the grower unambiguous signals. Deterioration of his appearance is a clear sign of health problems. It is important to correctly interpret these signs, and know what to do in each case.

Table: Symptoms and Possible Causes

External manifestations	Possible reasons
External manifestations	Mistakes in leaving	Disease	Pest
Yellowing and fading leaves.	Their life span is about two years. Otherwise, excessive irrigation
Turning pale, fading leaves, deforming, thinning trunks.	Deficit of light.
Falling green leaves.	Unsuitable room temperature (both high and too low), constant cold drafts.
Drying, curled and falling leaves.	Too scarce watering.
Dry brown leaf tips.	Low humidity in the room.
Dry tips and small areas of dead tissue on the leaves.	Excess fluoride in the soil - the use of unsuitable fertilizers or irrigation with hard not settled water.
Leaves that lose color saturation and yellowish or almost discolored spots on them.	Burn from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. It is almost inevitable if the plant has been sprayed before. Drops of water focus the rays no worse than lenses.
Yellowish-white spots on the leaves, dry edges.	Low temperature in the room or its sudden changes.
A discolored “watery” border around the edge of the sheet.	Excess fertilizer in the soil (too frequent fertilizing).
Blushing leaves.	Unsuitable too heavy soil with a predominance of peat.
Fine white crystals on the back of the sheet.	A natural phenomenon provoked by a single plentiful watering in combination with high humidity.
Slow growth or its complete absence.	Unsuitable soil, lack of top dressing for a long time or overly tight pot.
A flour-like coating on the leaves.
Browning soft-touch barrel.
Brownish spots, gradually pulled by a gray "pile".
Dark "watery" spots, softening tissue.
Yellowing leaves, covered with dark brown spots.
Reddish-yellow, gradually browning spots on the leaves.
Brown spots with bright green border on the leaves.
Small beige spots with a white dot in the center.
Elongated beige spots with a pale red border.
Blurry brown spots with yellow-green border.
Dark "watery" tips of leaves, "sores" on the trunk.
Brownish spots and stripes cast in bronze.
Yellow spots on leaves, braided by petioles.
Silver “scratches” and small black dots on the leaves.
Brown "plaques" on the leaves, reddish-yellow tissue around them.
Small lumps of whitish substance in the axils of the leaves and in the ground.
Many small yellow-green or black-brown insects on the underside of leaves and sticky drops on them.

What are the mistakes in leaving: examples in the photo

Dracaena, which has leaf tips dried, suffers from too low humidity or sunburn. Dracaena leaves can be dropped for several reasons, including natural ones. So most often it looks like dracaena before dropping leaves Dracaena can very easily get burned if sprayed leave the plant in direct sunlight Browning drying leaves of dracaena mean a long neglect of the plant's need for moisture The yellowing of the leaves of dracaena responds to overflow

Diseases and how to cope with them

Of the fungal diseases for dracaena, the most dangerous are all types of rot, which develop very quickly when improperly irrigated. If at the same time the room temperature is still below normal, this is almost inevitable.

Table: Typical Dracaena Diseases

Disease	Symptoms	Treatment and prevention
Small rounded pale brown spots on the trunk and leaves with a whitish dot in the middle, quickly changing color to black-gray. Gradually, the tissues in these places die.	Wipe the leaves and trunk with infusion of wood ash or colloidal sulfur. Treat the plant and soil with a solution of Topaz, Oxychoma, Kuprozan. Repeat three times at 10-day intervals. During this time, do not water with plain water, but with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. For prevention once a month, treat the flower and soil with a 0.1% solution of Fundazolum, Topsin-M.
Elongated beige spots with a reddish border on the leaves. Gradually they are tightened with a layer of greenish-gray plaque.
Phyllosticosis (brown spotting)	Blurry spots of irregular shape beige-brown with lime border. Then in the middle small black “grains” are formed. At risk are adults and especially old dracaena.	Cut off all infected tissue. Remove specially affected leaves completely. Sprinkle the slices with activated carbon powder, chalk, cinnamon, treat with iodine or brilliant green. Spray the flower with a solution of Skor, Topaz, HOMA. Repeat three times (treatment once a week). During this time, add any biostimulant (Zircon, Epin, potassium humate) to the water for irrigation (2-3 ml per liter).
Dark brown “watery” tips of leaves, brown spots on them, small round “ulcers” on the trunk and petioles. Healthy tissues are separated from infected by a wide yellow “oily” streak.	There are no effective treatment measures. The bacteriosis is provoked by constant dampness in the pot, heat in the room, and alkaline soil unsuitable for dracaena.
Spotted wilting (bronze)	Leaves are almost completely covered with stripes and spots of irregular shape. Under artificial lighting, they are brownish, cast in the sun with bronze. Dracaena growth almost stops, new leaves are small and deformed.	With the help of modern means, it is impossible to get rid of the virus. Often suffer from spotted wilting plants that do not feed. A deficiency of potassium and phosphorus is harmful to dracen.
Yellowness spreading through the leaves from bottom to top. Along the edge is a "watery" border. The top of the trunk wilts. He himself is thinning, changing color to brick. In especially severe cases, dracaena is covered with “weeping” brown spots.	Wash the flower under a warm shower, remove the affected leaves. Cut the slices. Spray the plant and spill the soil with a solution of Fundazole, Vectra, Benomila. Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 3-5 days. If there is no effect, use "heavy artillery" - Quadris, Bravo, Rayek. For prevention, add Fitosporin-M to water for irrigation. In the soil when transplanting add Gumistar, Trikhovit.
Root (black) rot	Brown roots and base of the trunk, mold on the soil and an unpleasant putrefactive odor coming from it.	Remove the dracaena from the pot, thoroughly rinse off the substrate from the roots. Cut all dark and slimy to the touch, capturing 3-5 cm of tissue that seems healthy. Soak the roots for 20-30 minutes in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 0.5% bordeaux fluid. Sprinkle slices with sifted wood ash, colloidal sulfur. Transplant the plant into a sterilized pot using new soil. For 3-4 months, water with a 0.5% solution of Alirin-B, Baikal-EM, Previkur.
Bacterial (wet) rot	Dark "watery" spots on the leaves and trunk. Tissues in these places soften to a semi-liquid state.
Pale brown spots on the leaves, gradually dragging on a layer of grayish “pile” with multiple small black blotches.	Cut off all the leaves infected with the fungus. Treat the "wounds." Wipe them and pour the soil with a solution of Abig-Peak, Kuprozan, Topaz. For a month, water the dracaena with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (0.25 g / l).
Brown rot (rhizoctonia)	Dracaena stops growing. Leaves turn yellow, discolor, then become covered with black-brown spots.	Stop watering immediately. After 3-5 days for 10-12 hours, soak the roots in a solution of Bactofit, Agata-25K, Maxim. Let them dry well. If there is no effect, change the pot and the soil.
Small brownish spots with a bright green border on the leaves.	Cut off all affected leaves. Provide the plant with optimal or near-keeping conditions. Follow the recommendations for caring for dracaena.
Leaves, as if powdered with flour. Gradually, this plaque condenses and turns brown.	Wipe off the leaves, washing them with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Powder them with powdered activated carbon or colloidal sulfur. Pour Dracaena with a solution of any fungicide twice with an interval of 10-12 days.

Photo gallery: how a plant affected by pathogenic fungi and bacteria looks like

Powdery mildew seems to be a harmless coating that is easy to erase, but it is by no means. Brown spotting is a rather rare disease. Dracaena, affected by brown rot, practically stops growing. Gray rot is easy to recognize, but not easy to cure. Tissues affected by bacterial rot turn into in semi-liquid mass Root rot is very difficult to recognize on time, and the disease can be treated only in the early stages of development. Fusarium plants in the garden often suffer, but indoor plants are not protected from infection. The plant that suffers from spotted wilting can only be thrown out. It is still impossible to cure bacteriosis Phylostyctosis most often affects adults and old dracaena Greenish-gray plaque that appears as heterosporosis develops, contains fungal spores Tissues affected by alternariosis gradually die, holes remain on the leaves, holes remain on the leaves

Video: Dracaena Disease Treatment

Dracaena attacking pests

Most pests, even having bred in a multitude, will not kill dracaena. But this does not mean that they do not need to be fought. The plant did not “bring” any exotic insects from its historical homeland. You have to deal with the most common insects and ticks that feed on its juice.

Table: Common Pests

Pest	Symptoms	Control and Prevention Measures
Rounded "plaques" of different shades of brown on the wrong side of the sheet. Gradually they “swell”, the tissues around them acquire an unnatural yellow-red color. In severe cases, the soil turns black.	Grease visible shell pests with machine oil, acetic acid, and pure alcohol. After a few hours, the guards can be removed. Wipe the leaves with soap suds, rinse with water. Treat the plant with Actara, Permethrin, Fufanon. If necessary, repeat another 1-2 times with an interval of 5-7 days.
Thin, almost transparent filaments entwining petioles. On the underside of the leaf are brown dots and blurry pale or yellowish spots around them.	Wipe the leaves with alcohol, vodka or any alcohol tincture. After 15–20 minutes, use a damp sponge. Spray generously and pour dracaena, for 2-3 days, if possible, tightly close with polyethylene. To enhance the effect, put the same container with chopped onions, garlic, turpentine. If there is no result, use acaricides - Neoron, Agravertin, Sunmayt, Apollo. A minimum of 3-4 treatments with different drugs will be required. The interval between them is 5-12 days. For prevention, spray the plant with a decoction of cyclamen tubers weekly. Or irradiate the leaves with a quartz lamp for 2-3 minutes on both sides.
Discolored leaves, small black dots and silver-beige thin “scratches” visible on the inside.	Apply soap foam or whipped flea shampoo to the leaves, leave it under polyethylene for 2-3 days. Or spray it with an oil emulsion (35-40 ml of any vegetable oil per liter of water). Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 5-7 days. If there is no result, use Fitoverm, Spintor, Actellik (2-3 times with an interval of a week).
Lumps of dirty cotton-like plaque in the axils of the leaves and at the base of the trunk. Leaves quickly turn yellow and dry.	Spray Dracaena with a soap-alcohol solution. After 2-3 hours, wash the leaves with clean water. At the same time, remove the visible “lumps” with a wooden stick. Treat the flower and soil with infusion of tobacco chips, dry mustard, red pepper. Or apply on a leaf any preparation with Neem tree oil. If there is no effect, use Spark-Bio, Calypso, Mospilan (2-3 times with an interval of 5-10 days).
Large colonies of small insects clinging to the underside of leaves (especially young ones) and the top of the trunk. Then a sticky transparent coating appears.	Wipe off the insects with soapy foam. Cut off specially affected leaves. Arrange dracene souls. 3-4 times a day spray the plant with tinctures of orange peels, onion husks, needles, and any sharply smelling herbs. If there is no effect, treat Dracaena Biotlin, Admiral, Confidor-Maxi. Repeat every 5–7 days until aphids disappear completely.

Photo gallery: how dracaena-infecting pests look

Aphids are distinguished by a rare “omnivorous”, dracaena is also part of its interests. If you do not pay attention to the mealybug, the plant will very soon be covered with a continuous carpet of stirring “fluff.” Small black dots on the leaves are nothing other than thrips. Spider mite is not an insect , therefore, to combat it, not general insecticides are used, but special preparations - acaricides. Durable carapace of the scale shield - reliable protection against most folk remedies.

Video: common pests of indoor plants and their control

Plant resuscitation

Most often, the dracaena requires urgent resuscitation, its owner is to blame. Most painfully, it reacts to improper watering - “drought” or “swamp” in the pot.

In the first case, cut off all the dry leaves to living tissue without touching the growth point at the top of the dracaena. Every 2-3 days, spray with a solution of any biostimulant. Rearrange as close to the southwest or southeast window. Water according to the instructions. If the roots are not affected, after 2-3 months the dracaena will give new leaves. When the growth point has dried up, you will have to cut it off and hope that the side kidneys “wake up”. But the chances of it are not so many.

In a waterlogged substrate, the development of rot is almost inevitable. Drazen needs to be transplanted as soon as possible, regardless of the time of year. But this procedure does not guarantee success; it will be effective only at an early stage of the development of the disease. In the process, be sure to cut off all the roots affected by the fungus, do not forget to sterilize a new pot and soil. At first, be very careful with watering, but spray the dracaena daily. Select the capacity according to the size of the root system (plus a maximum of 2-3 cm).

What to do with a broken palm dracaena

Dracaena is a fairly massive plant, so the aboveground part can simply outweigh the pot. Also, the “fractures” she often received are the result of the intense activity of children and domestic animals. In this case, do not be upset. If everything is done correctly, instead of one plant you will get two.

Broken dracaena - not a reason to arrange a tragedy

The easiest way is when the trunk broke, but did not break at all. “Tires” are placed on it, as if on an arm or leg, and the skin is fixed so that it covers the “wound” if possible. You can wrap strips of sphagnum moss or coconut fiber on top.

Do not forget to "seal" the cut

Otherwise, the remaining part of the plant in the pot:

Saw off the barrel just below the point of damage. It is advisable to do this according to the “scars” remaining from the fallen leaves.
Disinfect the section with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% m Bordeaux fluid.
Pour with liquid wax, paraffin, cover with garden var. If nothing is at hand, apply 2-3 coats of oil paint.
Put the plant in partial shade. Water sparingly. When growth buds form, return to normal care.

Also, material on methods of propagation of dracaena will be useful:

The side kidneys on the dracaena "wake up" for a long time, be patient

Broken tip:

Cut at an angle of approximately 45º. Try to do this as smoothly as possible, without “flaking” and chipping. Let it dry for 2-3 hours.
Tear off the interfering leaves. Put in a container with a biostimulator prepared according to the instructions. Succinic acid and activated carbon can be used (per tablet for every 200 ml). An alternative is rooting in wet perlite, vermiculite, sand. The slice will need to be sprinkled with any powdery root stimulator.
Change the water every 3-4 days, regularly moisten the substrate. Provide bottom heating, daylight hours of at least 12 hours and a temperature of approximately 25ºC.
Be patient. The rooting process can last 3-4 months or even six months. When the first new leaf appears, transplant the plant into soil suitable for adult dracaenas.

Most often, the broken tip of the dracaena is rooted in water

Video: rooting dracaena cuttings

Dracaena, like any houseplant, is not immune from attacks of diseases and pests. However, it is quite resistant to them, and a tree that is properly looked after rarely suffers. Nevertheless, individual errors in care, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can trigger a deterioration in the appearance of dracaena. If nothing is done, the plant may even die. Therefore, it is important to be able to recognize what caused these or other symptoms, and to know what to do to deal with the problem.

Dracaena is one of the most popular home flowers, used not only as an indoor plant, but also as an office plant. To ensure a flower's long life, you need to know the general rules for caring for it; it is especially important to recognize diseases on time. A serious and obvious symptom of ill health is leaf fall. Find out why this is happening and how to solve this problem.

Why dracaena drops leaves: the main reasons

Homeland dracaena are tropical forests. Externally, the flower resembles a palm tree: it has a straight stem that ends with a rosette of long leaves growing 20-60 cm in length.

Dracaena is a flower that tends to drop leaves, but this is not a natural process. With a large loss of leaves, the plant dies, so this problem should cause immediate intervention by the gardener.

Did you know? « Dracaena» translated from the ancient Greek language as« dragon female". Also called shrub« dragon tree» . The name comes from a legend that long ago, two giants - a dragon and an elephant - converged in battle. The dragon was crushed by an elephant, and in the place where drops of his blood fell, huge trees with a magnificent crown grew.

In addition, decorative qualities are highly valued in dracaena, and the loss of deciduous cover will deprive the flower of its main content advantage.
The main reasons for falling leaves are:

It should be borne in mind that dracaena itself throws off the leaves, if it is no longer a young plant. The maximum lifespan of dracaena is 15 years; when approaching this age, leaf fall is a natural process.

Violation of conditions

If the plants wilted and fell off in a short time, and the trunk began to rot and dry, it is necessary to change the conditions of the flower.

Good growth will be ensured by such parameters of care:

Temperature. The plant loves a temperature of + 20–25 ° C in the summer. And in the cold season, the minimum allowable temperature is + 16 ° C. If you keep the flower at a lower temperature, it will stop growing and fall into suspended animation.
Lighting. Dracaena loves the sun, since the plant was brought from the sunny tropics, however, direct rays are harmful to it. It is best to place the pot in partial shade. The most sensitive to light are variegated dracaena.
Location in the house. Since direct rays are undesirable for the plant, it is best to place it on the east or west side of the house. Most often located on the windowsills.
Pruning. A necessary process for the growth of lateral buds of a tree. The flower should be at least 30 cm high - only then can it be cut. You can remove leaves in spring or summer.
Moisturizing. A tropical plant requires plenty of moisture, especially in winter, during the heating season. To do this, you need to do air spraying near the flower pot.

Improper maintenance of the shrub at room conditions leads to the fact that it loses its natural beauty and color of leaves, the shape of the bush, the health of the trunk and root system. Therefore, before you buy such a plant, it is important to familiarize yourself with the rules of its cultivation in advance.

Lack or excess of fertilizer

Complex fertilizers are used as top dressing for dracaena. They must be given a flower twice a month, during the period of active growth, from approximately March to early September.

In gardening stores you can buy special fertilizers for dracaena: "Rainbow", "Ideal", "Dracaena."

The lack of trace elements, especially potassium, leads to the fact that the flower is covered with bronze spots and stripes. And from an excess of fertilizing, the roots and stem of the dracaena can rot.

Important!The abundance of fertilizer containing fluoride can lead to loss of color of leaves and their fall.

Wrong watering

Watering is the main way to nourish the shrub with water. To prevent the death of dracaena, you need to remember that she loves abundant watering, but it is not necessary to fill it too much, otherwise the root system will become waterlogged and begin to rot, and with it the stem.

In summer, dracaena is watered once every two to three days, while checking whether the earth has dried up at the base of the stem. Water is used at room temperature. Additionally, water is sprayed from the spray near the plant, thus moistening the air next to it. Withering leaves is a signal that you need to water more often.

In winter, the flower rests, and he needs watering every 3-4 days. However, if your plant stands on a windowsill under a battery, it needs to be watered more often. It is necessary to focus on the soil: if it has already dried up and you do not see wet spots, then you can water the pot again.

Transplant root damage

Since the root system of dracaena grows rapidly, very soon the gardener will be faced with the need to transplant it into a new pot. For a flower with a height of about 40 centimeters, a container with a diameter of 15 centimeters is needed.

The roots of the shrub are quite strong, but nevertheless, when separating the stems, it is important not to damage them, otherwise the plant will not develop further.

Important!A transplant should not be done more often than once every 2-3 years.

It is better to carry out the procedure in late March - early April. When replanting, do not forget to keep the drainage layer in the pot so that the bush does not have an excess of moisture.

Pests and diseases

Diseases and pests can nullify any efforts of the gardener. To avoid this, you need to be able to determine their symptoms in time.

Did you know? According to the ancient Aztec legend, the cut trunk of the dracaena in the full moon will bring happiness and love.

How to save a plant

If you notice signs of illness or a sharp fall of leaves in your dracaena, you need to decide how to reanimate the shrub.

In order not to treat bush diseases, preventive measures must be taken in time to prevent diseases.

Important!Note that each year a flower drops a small amount of yellowed leaves from the bottom of the stem to prepare for the winter season. This is a natural process.

When planting in a pot, make a drainage system. This way you protect your roots from excess water.
The flower does not tolerate drafts, but dies at low temperature. Therefore, in the cold season, make sure that the plant does not freeze.
Dracaena is a moisture-loving bush, and requires high humidity of air and soil. Do not miss watering the plants even in the winter season.
Also, do not apply too much fertilizer to the soil so that the leaves do not fall. In this case, it is better to add less minerals so as not to burden the soil.

Dracaena is an exotic plant that at any time of the year will remind you of the sea, palm trees and relaxation. It is not difficult to grow it, you only need to follow the basic rules of maintenance. And even if the plant was struck by the disease, it is important to help him in time, eliminating the cause of the falling leaves.

Dracaena is a very delicate flower that requires proper care, not experimentation with it. It is necessary to transplant the plant in clean, new soil, to water it - no more than once a week, and with mineral - organic fertilizer - only twice a month.

One of the most problematic species of dracaena is Bamboo of Happiness and Marginata, although other species of this plant also undergo various diseases. Dracaena is a very demanding plant, afraid of drafts. It is recommended to remove it from bright light and put it in a moderately lit place. Leaves to the maximum to remove from the bottom up. Only leave small leaves at the crown. This method should help for palm renewal. It is strictly forbidden to transfer Dracaen, there should not be an excess of water in the pot.

The main reasons why dracaena dropped leaves

- Moisture. The primary reason is precisely the presence of low humidity in the room where this plant is located. After all, this flower is considered a southern plant that is adapted for tropical conditions, so for it the humidity in the air should not be lower than 60-70%. And in ordinary apartments, mostly the humidity is lower, and in winter especially when hot batteries, different heaters heat and dry it, then the humidity can drop to 20%, which can very badly affect these plants. In this regard, all gardeners need to additionally humidify the air in the premises, regularly spraying rooms where there are plants, or purchase a special humidifier or put a container of water near the battery, then the water will evaporate under the influence of high temperature and thereby increase humidity.

There are also other causes of Dracaena ailment. These include incorrect or poor watering, which lead your flower to a deplorable state. Do not forget that such a flower should be watered only when the earth becomes dry in the pot, about once a week, no more and no less.

- Draft. Another reason for the poor condition of dracaena can be an ordinary draft in the room. This is especially dangerous during winter or late autumn, so at this time you should not keep these plants on the window. After all, they can get sick under the influence of cold.

- Nutrition. If you are trying hard to take care of your dracaena, but it is still listless in appearance and not viable, then try to analyze your care. May cause a flower ailment is a lack of vitamins. Ask experienced gardeners, try different types of fertilizers, top dressing intended for indoor plants. Sometimes sluggish leaves and slow plant growth are a sign that your flower in the pot is very crowded, so you need to carefully transplant it into a wide pot. This is best done in early spring, and the soil is better to take in the form of landless mixtures.

Dracaena can lower its leaves even after transplanting, for a week it can continue to hurt, and if after this period the former elasticity and brightness did not return to the flower, then a special growth stimulator should be applied.

In addition to all the probable reasons why the dracaena dropped leaves, the content of the plant in winter with a temperature of no higher than 18 degrees Celsius in the room. However, if the temperature is at least a few degrees higher, the plant will forever lower its leaves down along the trunk (typical for all species of ficus with large leaves that are contained in apartments with central heating).

To prevent such unpleasant consequences, you just need to follow all the basic rules for caring for dracaena, then this plant will always delight you with a beautiful view. Maintain the desired temperature, place it in bright diffused light, constantly monitor the humidity in the room and do not fill it with large amounts of water.

(21 rated, rating: 7,29 out of 10)

The most problematic types of dracaena are Marginata and Bamboo of Happiness, but other species of this plant are susceptible to various diseases. The causes of malaise dracaena can be very different.

Moisture

The first reason is rightly considered to be low humidity in the room. The flower of this species is considered to be a southern plant adapted for a tropical climate, and the humidity in the air for it should be at least 60-70%. In apartments, humidity is usually lower, especially in the winter, hot batteries and heaters dry and heat it, humidity usually drops to 20%, and this is bad for plants. Therefore, gardeners are advised to additionally moisten the air, regularly spray the room in which the plants are located, you can also buy a special humidifier or just put a vessel with water near the batteries, the water will evaporate and increase humidity.

However, there are other reasons for such ailments dracaena. Bad or improper watering can also lead a flower to a bad state. Remember that this flower should be watered only when the earth in its pot becomes dry. However, do not abuse it, water dracaena about once a week, no more, and no less.

Draft

Strange as it may seem, the third reason for the poor condition of the flower is a simple draft in your room. It can be especially dangerous in winter or late autumn, so you should not keep plants on the window. Dracaena can really get sick from the effects of the cold, in fact, catch a cold.

In order to prevent such unpleasant consequences, just follow the basic rules for caring for dracaena, and it will always delight your eye. Keep it in bright but diffused light, maintain the correct temperature, monitor the humidity in the house, do not over-moisten the earth in a pot.

Nutrition

If, with all the efforts, your dracaena still looks lethargic and unviable, try to analyze your departure. Perhaps the reason for the flower’s malaise lies in the fact that it lacks vitamins. Consult with experienced gardeners, try various fertilizers, fertilizing for indoor plants.

Sluggish leaves and slow growth are a sign that the flower is closely in the pot, so carefully transplant it into a spacious pot. It is advisable to do this in early spring, and use soilless mixtures as soil.

He will lower the sheets of dracaena and after transplantation, it will hurt for at least a week, if after this period the former elasticity and brightness did not return, you need to use a growth stimulator.