Why is dracaena dropping leaves down. The dracaena dropped leaves what to do. Optimal home conditions for growing dracaena

Typical diseases of dracaena and their effective treatment with an explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.

Why do dracaena drop leaves? Causes may be the following: the plant goes through a period of acclimatization after purchase, a transplant was carried out with soil replacement, which violated the integrity of the root system, and the irrigation mode was incorrect.

Only a purchased plant must undergo a period of acclimatization under the new conditions. Dracaena is no exception. The light level in the new room, humidity and air temperature - all this can affect the well-being of the flower. No need to worry if dracaena is only purchased and it has lowered leaves. For prevention, you need to inspect the plant carefully. If there are no pests on it, the root system is in order, the trunk does not rot - there is no need to take drastic measures. Experts recommend not replanting the flower within 1 month after purchase. After this period, transplant by transshipment and strictly observe the rules for caring for dracaena. As practice shows, all dracaena drop leaves after the purchase. This is a normal occurrence. In a healthy flower, only the crown, that is, young leaves, will look up.

Dracaena dropped leaves immediately after transplantation. This indicates a violation of the root system of the flower, namely, very thin roots that form a spider web at the bottom of the pot. They are involved in plant nutrition and provide the plant with water. It is not recommended to transplant dracaena in a complete replacement of the soil. She is more likely to transship in a larger pot. Thus, the root system will not be injured.

However, if the transplant has already been carried out and the dracaena has lowered the leaves, while its lower leaves can turn yellow intensively, the following steps must be performed: spray the flower with a cyclone (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water) and place it under the greenhouse or a spacious cap. Leaves should not touch the walls of the greenhouse. At the same time, watering is significantly reduced. Before the next watering, the ground in the pot should completely dry (you can 1 time in 2-3 weeks). On the contrary, it is necessary to spray the flower very often with ordinary water in order to maintain high humidity under the greenhouse. The number of sprayings depends on the room temperature. The colder the less often. Cycron can be used only 1 time per week. At the first watering, the cyclone must be added to the water for irrigation. This stimulates the growth of the root system. After a transplant with a violation of the root system, dracaena lacks moisture. At the same time, intensive watering will lead to decay of the root system. The plant will replenish the lack of moisture through the crown. That is why in a greenhouse they maintain high humidity.

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Reason: Wrong watering mode. In the first case, the amount of moisture is simply not enough for the plant to maintain normal leaf turgor. In the second - there is too much moisture, which led to the decay of the root system. Through damaged roots, the plant also does not receive enough moisture. Increasing the number of irrigations will not solve the problem.

If dracaena lowered leaves due to lack of moisture, what should I do? It is necessary to place the flower under the greenhouse and conduct regular spraying. It is impossible to sharply increase the number of irrigation, as this will harm the roots. Keep the plant under the greenhouse for 3-5 days. Watering the flower should be plentiful, but only after the earth coma is completely dry. Water from the pan must be removed.

Dracaena gets an excess of moisture. As a result, the root system does not cope with an excess of fluid and begins to rot. Damaged roots no longer absorb moisture from the ground, and therefore dracaena lowers the leaves. What to do? First of all, normalize watering. Next, you need to carefully, without violating the integrity of the root system, remove the dracaena from the pot by the barrel. Inspect the roots. If the root system is light yellow or white, but not brown, it is healthy. The plant is returned back to the pot and reduce watering. Watering should be plentiful, but only after the soil has completely dried in a pot.

If the dracaena lowered the leaves and its roots are soaked, flabby and have an unhealthy shade, this indicates rotting. Damaged roots are removed. The plant is transplanted into a new, special, slightly moist soil. Dracaena is placed under a greenhouse. Watering is minimized, and spraying, on the contrary, is speeded up. Can be added to spray water for cyclone. The plant is removed from the greenhouse when it begins to drive out new leaves.

Why do dracaena dry the tips of leaves? Reasons: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime is violated, heavy soil.

Dracaena is a light-loving flower, and therefore its tips of the leaves very often turn yellow due to a lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown under indoor conditions, the tips of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination with an energy-saving lamp up to 12 hours. The flower must be placed at the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows do not fit the flower.

You noticed that the dracaena looks bad, the tips of its leaves are drying. What to do in such cases? It is necessary to pay attention to the watering mode. Perhaps the plant is waterlogged. As a result, its root system rots, leaves do not get enough moisture through diseased roots, and therefore their tips dry. Dracaena is watered only after the soil has completely dried in a pot. Watering in this case is carried out abundant, so that the water out into the pan through the drainage holes. Water is immediately removed from the pan. Otherwise, the bottom of the pot will not dry out, the roots will rot. You can not put a pot of dracaena on wet expanded clay. To check the condition of the root system, the plant is carefully removed from the pot. Healthy roots will be light. Regular spraying will help the flower. You can add cyclone or epin to the water for spraying once a week.

Dracaena dry the tips of the leaves, if the room is low humidity. For this, frequent spraying of the flower is carried out, a humidifier is placed next to it. During the heating season, do not place the plant next to heating appliances.

Dracaena does not grow, new leaves grow deformed, stems are thinned and extended. Reason: the plant lacks sunlight. Perhaps the flower is in the back of the room where the light does not penetrate, or the length of daylight is shortened due to the onset of autumn-winter. Experts recommend placing dracaena near windows on the south or southeast side of the house, but with mandatory shading from midday heat. To diffuse direct sunlight on the window, just hang a transparent curtain. In autumn and winter, it is recommended that the dracaena be illuminated with an artificial light lamp (fluorescent or a special phytolamp). In total, the duration of daylight hours for the successful development of leaflets should be 12-14 hours.

With the onset of autumn-winter (from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dracaena dormancy period, upon the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, reduce the temperature of the plant (up to +17 ... + 18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and feeding are not carried out. During the resting period, the dracaena slows its growth, and therefore, in conditions of insufficient illumination, it does not expel new, deformed leaves, its branches do not thin out.

Why did dracaena lower the leaves?

My dracaena lowered the leaves as soon as I brought to the balcony after the winter, which I didn’t do, but the leaves didn’t rise, but returned to the room in 3 days, rose and now the beautiful woman stands, dismissed all the leaves.

Dracaena, although an unpretentious houseplant, but still to be beautiful and lush (the leaves looked up), you need to properly care for it. The first signs that dracaena lack care are the leaves that have fallen, the leaves turn yellow and fall off too often.

Dracaena does not like to be watered too often. The earthen lump should dry before the next watering. Young plants need to be replanted every year and at the same time increase the size of the pot by 1-2 fingers so that the roots are not crowded.

Perhaps the cause of the dropping leaves is a lack of nutrients. It is necessary to feed the plant at least 1 time per month (or 1 time in 2 weeks). I use vermicompost liquid for feeding.

Dracaena also loves the presence of oxygen at the roots. Therefore, you need to periodically loosen the soil on the surface.

In the summer, spraying is beneficial, but only this should be done in the evening, when the sun is not so strong (if you say your plant is on the balcony).

Dracaena does not like dry air. This is the time. It needs to be sprayed. In addition, if it’s hot in the winter, dracaena will always have such dropped leaves in your apartment. They will turn yellow over time. I have 24 degrees and the dracaena was very bad.

Perhaps she is standing on your sunny side and it may be hot. Put it in the shade or just open the window so that the plant is not so hot. And in the summer you need to water the flowers twice a week than in the winter.

Dracaena their leaves leaves seldom. If this happened, it means they did not take good care of the plant, or for a long time they were not at home.

It should be noted that it is very sensitive to drafts. If put on a draft, then not only the leaves will lower.

Also, you can not put a flower in bright direct sunlight.

Unnecessary plant transfusion.

Moderate watering will save the dracaena from root decay.

More often the plant must be sprayed. She loves this dracaena, and the leaves will stand like ears in a hare in the cold.

The land in which the dracaena is transplanted or planted should not be heavy. It should be well filled with oxygen. It is possible, and it is necessary to make drainage on 1/3 of the subboil.

The soil often needs to be loosened.

Dracaena will live longer.

My dracaena lowered the leaves after they began to open the windows for ventilation in the summer. And fertilized, and reduced the number of leaves - rejuvenated, but to no avail. I removed it from the window into the room and in a day the plant came to life, all the leaves rose. Most likely she lowered the leaves due to drafts and dry air.

We dracaena lowered the leaves after moving. The moving was in winter and the plant simply froze, the leaves seemed to wilt. It didn’t work out completely, but still, for the most part, it recovered over time. The reason for this may be a draft or a too sunny place.

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Low humidity

Most often, the drying of the leaves occurs in the winter, when the radiators work in the room. Dracaena is a native of the humid tropics, so dry air is absolutely unacceptable to her. To increase humidity, the crown must be sprayed daily. In addition, a glass of water can be placed next to the pot. Evaporating, it will help the dracaena survive the heating period. In the summer, the flower should be sprayed several times a day and regularly arrange “shower procedures” for it.

If the lower leaves gradually and periodically (on average once every two years) completely dry the lower leaves, there is no reason for concern. Thus, the plant simply gets rid of the old foliage.

Watering problems

Despite the fact that dracaena loves moisture, it does not apply to the ground - it just has to have time to dry out. Stagnant moisture is as fatal to a flower as dry air. It is enough to water the plant once a week, and the rest of the time - to spray on the sheet.

However, it is impossible for the soil to dry completely - in this case, the leaves will not only dry out from the ends, but also become sluggish and gradually fall off.

Wrong place

The most optimal place for dracaena is away from sun-drenched windows. Direct rays literally burn out spots on the leaves, both at the tips and along the entire length of the sheet.

Some species of dracaena grow well even on the northern windows. However, it should be borne in mind that varieties with variegated foliage still need more illumination than plain plants.

The presence of pests

The leaves of dracaena begin to dry from the tips, and then completely, if a scab has settled on the bush. The most effective method of struggle is to collect insects with your hands while they are still young and have not had time to become covered with rough shell. Otherwise, you will have to resort to special drugs.

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A bit about Dracaena

Dracaena is a beautiful exotic plant found in nature in the humid climate of the subtropics of Africa, Asia and the Canary Islands. In nature, it can reach 20 meters in height with a trunk of several girths.

Of course, indoor dracaena cannot reach such a huge size. Nevertheless, this plant is able to attract attention with its originality. It is able to make any room cozy and attractive.

Sometimes dracaena is able to reach a height of several meters, but usually does not grow more than 50 centimeters. Rosettes of greenish-gray xiphoid leaves up to 50 cm long and 5 cm wide, collected at the top of the tree in an original bunch, will decorate your home or office.

Common types of dracaena

The most common variety is marginate. Sometimes it grows up to 3 meters in height. It is decorated with panicles, as if of disheveled leaves. Long narrow leaves disappear over time, and noticeable scars remain on the high trunk.

Another species is fragrant. It is so named because of its flowers, which have a strong aroma. But flowers at home rarely appear. It can grow up to 6 meters in height. Shiny and long green leaves bend beautifully to the ground.

Sandera - completely different from the previously described and is a shrub. Its leaves are oval, bright green in color with small golden spots.

Dragon - it grows slowly, has an exotic appearance, a resin that turns red in the air like blood, its height can reach one and a half meters.

Care

Dracaena is an unpretentious plant, therefore, caring for it is simple and not burdensome. This is a photophilous plant, so it is preferable to place it on the southern windows. However, at the height of summer, your pet needs to be lowered.

Bright sunlight is less harmful to flowers with colorful leaves, but dracaena with darker foliage need protection from the sun.

Water them often, but in moderation. In the summer - every other day, and do not forget to have a warm shower every week. For this, water having room temperature is needed.

With a decrease in room temperature to 14-16 degrees, watering is reduced, the plant falls asleep. For irrigation, you need to use filtered or boiled water. And you still need to remember the main rule: waterlogging is always more harmful than drying out. This rule is also relevant for dracaena, although it is hygrophilous.

Like other domestic flowers, she needs to be fed.

With a lack of nutrients, even green leaves can fall. You need to feed with special fertilizers. Use them according to the detailed instructions on the packaging.

Breeding methods

For propagation, apical cuttings, pieces of stems, branches and seeds can be used. Planted in peat mixed with sand. Rooting occurs within 2 to 4 weeks.

Dracaena has a highly developed root system. A tight pot inhibits the growth of the flower, so it is necessary to transplant the plant annually, before the onset of the growth period. This is the end of March or the beginning of April.

When buying a plant in a store, it is best to transplant it as soon as possible. It is necessary to correlate the size of the plant and the pot. If it is forty centimeters high, then the diameter of the pot should be no more than 15 cm.

Dracaena is suitable substrate for palm trees. Pour drainage to the bottom of the tank to avoid root rot. We transplant the plant and water it well, adding a stimulating growth drug to the water.

Plant rejuvenation

Very often, gardeners have to deal with the problem of leaf falling in dracenas. Why is this happening and what to do?

Some species grow fast enough. Over time, the trunk of the plant begins to become bare due to falling of the lower leaves. This means that the plant needs to be rejuvenated.

It’s just scary to decide. After all, it will be a pity if such a large crown cannot root or buds grow on the trunk and such a beautiful flower dies.

Throw away all doubts, because this plant is very lively, not many indoor flowers can compare with its resistance.

Pruning should be done with the onset of spring. It is necessary to cut off with a sharp secateurs, because to do this with a knife will not work. Cut at an arbitrary height, the surface of the cut is blotted to remove the allocated juice, sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, apply a garden var or pour wax.

The height of the cut top is left about 25 centimeters, removing the sheet plates located below. Then it needs to be dried for several hours, after which it is put in water with a tablet of activated carbon. The roots on it will appear within a month. After that, the top can be planted in the prepared substrate. It can be tied to a support, this will give stability.

The part of the trunk that turned out to be "superfluous" can be cut into separate segments. Each of them should have 2-3 growth buds. Dry the resulting pieces and place in a moist substrate for rooting. You can arrange them horizontally on the surface or vertically, slightly deepening.

The stump left after the cut will soon please you with awakened kidneys.

Of these, new sprouts will begin to develop. It is important to reduce watering after pruning, because the plant has nothing to evaporate moisture that enters the roots. Watering should be increased gradually, as the green mass increases.

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Why do dracaena drop leaves?

There may be several reasons:

improper watering;
not suitable in size pot;
nutrient deficiency;
lack of moisture;
drafts and broken temperature;
the plant was frozen.

Watering

The soil should be moist, not moist. The plant is watered with settled water at room temperature, when the earthen lump dries out by about 2 cm. The irrigation regimen is 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in the pot, pour expanded clay or coarse-grained sand on its bottom with a layer of 3-4 cm, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from decay. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.

In the hot summer period, the flower needs to be sprayed. To wash off the dust and refresh it, we recommend once a month to put the plant in the shower, covering the ground with cellophane. After bathing the leaf growth point, blot with a napkin.

Close pot

The second reason that the leaves are constantly lowered down may be an improperly sized flower pot. If it is small, then plant nutrition is difficult. Roots need space. Check the tightness of their fit to the walls of the pot. If necessary, transplant a flower.

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Each year, its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

Lower leaflets may fall down due to insufficient nutrients. In a cramped pot with a very developed root system, the earth quickly becomes poorer, the upper crown grows due to the lower foliage. During the period of active growth from April to September 1-2 times a month, feed the roots with pre-selected fertilizers. When watering, you can use liquid fertilizers according to the instructions.

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaflets may look droopy if you freeze a flower. First aid - a warm shower.

A flower loves humid air and does not tolerate drafts, so find him a quiet place away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the flowerpot on a pan with water so that the bottom of the flowerpot does not touch the surface of the water. Evaporating, water moisturizes the air.

Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is leaning toward the horizon. Light should be evenly scattered. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. Evergreen palm up to 35 years old is considered to be young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

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Main reasons

Typically, this problem occurs due to errors made by the owners in the care process. Leaves may fall off when there is insufficient or excessive watering. There are also natural causes due to which dracaena leaves fall.

These primarily include the age of the plant. Another factor is the inappropriate microclimate. Despite the fact that this flower is considered hardy and resistant to various environmental conditions, there are certain conditions for its maintenance.

In a healthy plant, the bark is quite dense. But practice shows that dracaena may cause deterioration of the bark and leaves. If the reason is age, then nothing can be done about it. Each leaf lives a certain time. Subsequently, it turns yellow and falls off. This is a natural process, and you will not be able to resist it in any way.

However, there are cases when, at a young age, a flower loses all its leaves. The bark also deteriorates. The trunk becomes weak. Why does dracaena do this? Because you take care of her incorrectly. You are probably watering it wrong. It is not difficult to solve this problem: it is enough to ensure timely watering, and you will be able to maintain an attractive appearance of such a plant culture.

Often the owners of such plants are afraid of not enough water and irrigate in a larger amount than the flower requires. Even given the fact that dracaena loves humidity, this cannot be done. As a rule, with an excess of liquid, dracaena drops its leaves in a rather short time. In this case, the bark begins to rot, as do the roots. What to do in this situation? It is enough just to reduce the amount of water for irrigation and to make it not so often.

It is important to complete a series of immediate actions. Remove the flower from the pot without damaging the roots and bark (i.e. with soil). Remove some of the land to inspect the condition of the root system.

Remove those roots that have rotted. Allow the rest to dry, removing any remaining soil. Subsequently do not abuse the watering. The plant will stop dropping leaves as soon as the soil moisture level is normalized and the roots dry out.

If the dracaena has a soft trunk and leaves fall, this is a likely sign of improper watering.

To do this, dry the roots and plant the flower again in less moistened ground. The stem will wither away from excess fluid. As a result, leaves that can no longer be held on a weakened "skeleton" begin to fall. It is important to ensure that in the axils of the leaves after transplantation and watering, too, no water remains. Otherwise, they will rot and fall off again.

It is imperative to maintain the right microclimate. So you will be able to save even the "bald" flower. For these purposes, set the room temperature above +15 ° C. If the flower is in a cold room for a long time, this will lead not only to falling leaves, but also to the death of the whole plant. In addition to optimal temperature conditions, it is necessary to regularly feed such a culture. This flower needs nutrients such as potassium nitrogen, ammonium sulphide, potassium phosphate.

The components must be mixed and diluted in warm water. It is important not to overdo it using fluoride, otherwise the plant will begin to dry out, and you will only exacerbate the problem. Now you know why dracaena drops leaves. Having figured out the reason, you will be able to quickly eliminate the errors of caring for the flower and return it to a healthy beautiful appearance.

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Symptoms of care mistakes and possible causes.

The upper leaves retain elasticity, but turn yellow: It is caused, as a rule, by a high calcium content in the soil - in those plants that cannot tolerate lime, or by the hardness of water for irrigation.

The leaves lose their luster and look lifeless: The probable cause is too much light; another cause may be a red spider mite. Even healthy green leaves may look faded if not washed.

Leaf discoloration (chlorosis): The leaves discolor and turn yellow, the veins remain green. This usually happens with a lack of iron and magnesium. Both elements are needed to keep the leaf green. Irrigation with water containing a lot of calcium leads to such a deficiency: calcium binds iron in the soil. You can fix this by starting to use iron chelates or brown algal extract and pour softened water.

Leaves discolor until they become transparent: This is due to a lack of nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary, in particular, for the formation of green leaves. To restore the green color of the leaves, it is necessary to fertilize with liquid fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. More long-term support may be horny flour, which must be gently mixed into the upper layer of the earth.

Drooping leaves: Common causes are either drying out the soil (due to insufficient watering) or waterlogging of the soil (due to poor drainage or too frequent watering). Other causes may be an excess of light (especially if the leaves wilt regularly in the middle of the day), dry air, too high air temperature, a cramped pot or pests.

Leaves curl and fall: The edges of the leaves curl and sometimes become dry. Twisting the leaves of plants is a measure of self-defense, because this reduces the surface of the leaf and less water evaporates from it. This happens when the plant is in a too warm place or receives little water. It is necessary to water the plant until the soil is completely saturated, or dip it in water and hold it. Choose a cooler place for him.

Leaves fall off suddenly: Rapid leaf fall without a previous long period of wilting or discoloration usually indicates a shock suffered by the plant. It can be caused by a significant temperature difference (both lowering and increasing), a sharp increase in the intensity of illumination in the daytime or a strong cold draft. Sudden falling of leaves, especially in tree plants, can also be caused by drying out of the soil at the roots.

Leaves turn yellow and fall: The lower leaves of an adult plant naturally turn yellow over time and then fall. When this happens simultaneously with several leaves, the probable cause is waterlogging of the soil, lack of nitrogen, too dark place or cold drafts. First of all, you need to drastically reduce watering or completely replace the earth and less often water it. Regularly feed with appropriate fertilizers. Move the plant to a brighter place.

The lower leaves dry and fall: Three possible causes are a lack of light, too high air temperature and insufficient watering. The plant should be rearranged in a brighter place. Soak an earthball completely with water, immersing the pot for several hours in water. Move from a warm place to cooler conditions.

Leaves on new plants fall off: For newly transplanted, just bought or transferred from one room to another plants, it is natural to lose one or two lower leaves. The shock from a change of scenery can be mitigated if the plant is transplanted only in a slightly larger pot than the previous one, sheltered when moving home from the store and transferred from a poorly lit place to a bright light with an intermediate stay for several days in partial shade.

Dots or spots on leaves: If the dots or spots are dry and brown, then the most likely cause is a lack of water. If the affected areas are soft, dark brown light - this is most likely due to waterlogging of the soil. If the dots or spots are white or yellowish, the lesion is caused by the use of cold water during irrigation, a sharp drop in temperature, water getting on the leaves, aerosol damage, or illness / pests. If the spots are reddish, silver-white or brownish - the plant was suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. If the affected areas become wet and look like a blister, or dry in the form of dents, the cause is the disease. Some pests can also cause leaf spotting.

Brown tips or leaf edges: The most likely cause is the drying of the leaf tips to dry air. Another possible cause is physical damage, when the tips of the leaves are often touched or pressed against the glass or wall. If the edges of the leaves are yellow or brown, this can be caused by several reasons: waterlogged soil, insufficient watering, lack of light, too much light, too low air temperature, an excess of minerals, dry air or drafts. Other symptoms will help determine the true cause.

Small pale leaves and elongated stems: This happens in winter and early spring, after the plant was kept in insufficient light at too high a temperature and excessively heavy watering. If possible, the ugly part of the plant is removed. If such symptoms appear during the growth period, then the reasons may be a lack of minerals or too poor lighting.

Leaves and stems rot: This is caused by a disease that occurs under poor conditions. Often the cause of the disease is waterlogging of the soil in winter or water getting on the leaves, especially if it remains overnight.

Torn edges and holes on the leaves: Most often appear when physically damaged by pets or people (sometimes even a simple touch on an unfolded sheet can damage it) or when attacked by pests.

Variegated leaves turn solid green: This is simply due to a lack of light. Remove all processes with uniformly colored leaves (if possible) and move the pot with the plant closer to the window.

A plant does not grow slowly or at all: In winter, this is normal for all plants, so do not force it to grow. In summer, the most likely cause of growth retardation is a lack of minerals, waterlogging of the soil, or insufficient lighting. If these reasons are excluded, then, perhaps, the plant has a small pot.

The plant does not bloom: Several reasons can lead to the fact that an adult plant does not bloom at the right time. The most likely causes associated with lighting are a lack of light or an unsuitable length of daylight for a plant. Other causes may be an overabundance of minerals, dry air, thrips, or transplantation (some plants bloom only in a tight pot).

Buds fall: The reasons why leaves fall can also cause buds or flowers to fall. This is most often caused by dry air, insufficient watering, lack of light, moving the pot with the plant to another place and pest damage.

Flowers quickly fade: As a rule, this is a result of insufficient watering, dry air, lack of light or too high air temperature.

Green plaque on a ceramic pot: A sure sign of problems associated with irrigation - occurs when waterlogged soil or poor drainage.

White peel on a ceramic pot: There are two likely reasons - use too hard water for irrigation or an excess of minerals.

The beginning flower grower does not have enough experience and intuition for growing indoor plants, he acquires it most often by trial and error. However, it is possible to avoid trouble by using some basic rules when choosing a plant and first acquaintance with it.

When buying dracaena or another plant, find out its full Latin name. Acquiring a new unknown plant, many are not interested in its agricultural technology, features, do not know the correct botanical name. Knowing the correct botanical name, you can determine the specific features of a particular species.
Excessive shading or bright light can harm your dracaena. First of all, you should choose the right place for the plant. To do this, find out how the plant relates to sunlight. In addition, which is very important, a plant that tolerates sunlight well must be accustomed to it gradually. This is due to the peculiarities of plant maintenance prior to purchase - in stores they rarely observe the light regime necessary for a particular species.
For most species of plant dracaena, drafts are fatal. When choosing a plant, consider this fact.
Overfilling or excessive dryness can be extremely harmful to the plant. Watering is of great importance. You always need to know what the needs of the plant you bought are. In addition, watering should be carried out carefully, negligence leads to unpleasant consequences. For a number of species, a necessary condition for a healthy existence in the apartment is a constant daily spraying.
Be careful when feeding the plant. It is very important to understand how much the introduction of nutrients is necessary for the plant. Mistakes in feeding can cause the plant to die or die.
Consider the individual needs of the plant to the soil mixture. When transplanting, the main mistake is the incorrectly selected soil mixture. Sometimes a transplant is started unnecessarily, at the wrong time. Often too large dishes are taken, which leads to acidification of the soil. Most plants require good drainage, which some do not pay attention to. Plants brought from Holland often do not undergo proper control by the relevant structures, as a result of which they can carry various hazardous pests on themselves or in the substrate. Therefore, it is advisable to transplant the purchased plant with the replacement of the substrate and a careful examination of the roots.
Need to crop? Crop! Lovers - gardeners often pity their plant, are afraid to cut it. Pruning is necessary for a number of crops; if it is not carried out, the plant grows, ceases to grow and bloom.

Symptoms of care mistakes and possible causes.

The leaves lose their luster and look lifeless: The probable cause is too much light; another cause may be a red spider mite. Even healthy green leaves may look faded if not washed.

Torn edges and holes on the leaves: Most often appear when physically damaged by pets or people (sometimes even a simple touch on an unfolded sheet can damage it) or when attacked by pests.

Variegated leaves turn solid green: This is simply due to a lack of light. Remove all processes with uniformly colored leaves (if possible) and move the pot with the plant closer to the window.

Flowers quickly fade: As a rule, this is a result of insufficient watering, dry air, lack of light or too high air temperature.

Green plaque on a ceramic pot: A sure sign of problems associated with irrigation - occurs when waterlogged soil or poor drainage.

White peel on a ceramic pot: There are two likely reasons - use too hard water for irrigation or an excess of minerals.

Dracaena is a very delicate flower that requires proper care, not experimentation with it. It is necessary to transplant the plant in clean, new soil, to water it - no more than once a week, and with mineral - organic fertilizer - only twice a month.

One of the most problematic species of dracaena is Bamboo of Happiness and Marginata, although other species of this plant also undergo various diseases. Dracaena is a very demanding plant, afraid of drafts. It is recommended to remove it from bright light and put it in a moderately lit place. Leaves to the maximum to remove from the bottom up. Only leave small leaves at the crown. This method should help for palm renewal. It is strictly forbidden to transfer Dracaen, there should not be an excess of water in the pot.

The main reasons why dracaena dropped leaves

- Moisture. The primary reason is precisely the presence of low humidity in the room where this plant is located. After all, this flower is considered a southern plant that is adapted for tropical conditions, so for it the humidity in the air should not be lower than 60-70%. And in ordinary apartments, mostly the humidity is lower, and in winter especially when hot batteries, different heaters heat and dry it, then the humidity can drop to 20%, which can very badly affect these plants. In this regard, all gardeners need to additionally humidify the air in the premises, regularly spraying rooms where there are plants, or purchase a special humidifier or put a container of water near the battery, then the water will evaporate under the influence of high temperature and thereby increase humidity.

There are also other causes of Dracaena ailment. These include incorrect or poor watering, which lead your flower to a deplorable state. Do not forget that such a flower should be watered only when the earth becomes dry in the pot, about once a week, no more and no less.

- Draft. Another reason for the poor condition of dracaena can be an ordinary draft in the room. This is especially dangerous during winter or late autumn, so at this time you should not keep these plants on the window. After all, they can get sick under the influence of cold.

- Nutrition. If you are trying hard to take care of your dracaena, but it is still listless in appearance and not viable, then try to analyze your care. May cause a flower ailment is a lack of vitamins. Ask experienced gardeners, try different types of fertilizers, top dressing intended for indoor plants. Sometimes sluggish leaves and slow plant growth are a sign that your flower in the pot is very crowded, so you need to carefully transplant it into a wide pot. This is best done in early spring, and the soil is better to take in the form of landless mixtures.

Dracaena can lower its leaves even after transplanting, for a week it can continue to hurt, and if after this period the former elasticity and brightness did not return to the flower, then a special growth stimulator should be applied.

In addition to all the possible reasons why dracaena dropped leaves, the content of the plant in winter with a temperature of no higher than 18 degrees Celsius in the room. However, if the temperature is at least a few degrees higher, the plant will forever lower its leaves down along the trunk (typical for all species of ficus with large leaves that are contained in apartments with central heating).

To prevent such unpleasant consequences, you just need to follow all the basic rules for caring for dracaena, then this plant will always please you with a beautiful view. Maintain the desired temperature, place it in bright diffused light, constantly monitor the humidity in the room and do not fill it with large amounts of water.

(21 rated, rating: 7,29 out of 10)

Dracaena is a spectacular evergreen. It can be found both in apartments and in office premises. Amateur gardeners and designers, she is appreciated for its attractiveness and unpretentiousness. However, despite the undemanding and lack of whims, dracaena suffers from unintentional errors in care, attacks of pathogenic fungi, bacteria, viruses and harmful insects. This negatively affects her presentability. Therefore, you need to know what symptoms are characteristic of a particular disease or pest, and how to deal with them.

How to create an optimal microclimate in dracaena

Dracaena is quite unpretentious, and there is nothing complicated in creating an optimal microclimate for her at home. But the requirements of the plant should nevertheless be heeded, trying to create an atmosphere as close as possible to the one to which it is used in nature.

Dracaena - a popular (not least because of its unpretentiousness) houseplant

Table: Suitable conditions for growing dracaena

Factor	Recommendations
Location	Nearby (1–2 m) from a window facing east or west. Putting close to the south window is not recommended to avoid sunburn. In summer, if the dimensions allow, you can move the container to fresh air. Dracaena loves him, but does not tolerate cold drafts.
Lighting	Diffused light or light partial shade. Species with variegated leaves are more demanding on lighting. All dracaena can exist in fully artificial light if daylight hours last at least 12 hours.
Temperature	In spring and summer - moderately warm (20–25ºС). Dracaena does not tolerate heat well. In winter it is slightly lowered - to 17–19ºС. The lower limit is 15ºС. Exceptions are fragrant dracaena, Hooker, Dragon (they suffer a short-term decrease to 10ºС). All species react negatively to sudden changes in temperature. A difference of 10 ° C or more can lead to the death of the plant.
Air humidity	Normally exists with a standard air humidity of 40-50% (especially dracones of Dragon and Godsphere are undemanding to it), but with gratitude responds to any measures to increase it. The only thing you should not do is pour water into the sump. In winter, working radiators dry the air very much, therefore, it is recommended to spray the surrounding air with warm water once every 2-3 days. In the summer, in the heat, you can spray the plant itself, but so that the drops do not fall into sockets, or arrange a shower by covering the soil with polyethylene. Be sure to wipe the leaves with a wet cloth or sponge at least once a week.

Choose a place near the window to the dracaena, it is very difficult to put it on the windowsill because of the dimensions

In addition to the optimal microclimate, a great influence on how the plant feels is provided by timely top dressing and the correct watering regimen.

In summer, you need to allow the soil in the pot to dry about 4-5 cm deep. This can be determined by sticking a wooden stick in the pot. One procedure in 2-3 days is enough. In winter, intervals are increased to 5–7 days. In wet soil, when cool, rot quickly develops. Broad-leaved dracaena need to be watered more often - they have a larger evaporation area. An obvious signal is drooping, toned leaves. And do not forget to loosen the soil after each procedure.

It will also be useful material about the conditions of detention of Dracaena Sander:

As for top dressing, there are special fertilizers for dracaena. The tree is watered with a nutrient solution every 20-30 days, after about half an hour it is well moistened with soil. If a universal tool for indoor plants is used, pay attention to the composition. Excess phosphorus and nitrogen can lead to poor leaf appearance. And dracaena categorically does not tolerate fluoride.

Video: keeping and caring for a flower at home

Diseases and pests typical for dracaena and their prevention

Dracaena, which is properly looked after, is quite resistant to damage by various pathogenic fungi, viruses and bacteria. Most often, this kind of plant problem is the result of unintentional host mistakes. An invasion of pests, even a massive one, is also unlikely to lead to its death, but it will cause a lot of trouble to the grower.

The most dangerous for it are all kinds of rot, as well as bacterial and viral diseases, which cannot be cured with modern means. In this case, the plant needs to be destroyed as quickly as possible, no matter how sorry it is. Otherwise, you may lose the entire collection.

Most often, to avoid problems with dracaena, competent prevention is enough:

quarantine for newly acquired plants for 25-30 days;
regular inspections of the entire collection (ideally through a magnifying glass) and immediate isolation of “suspicious” specimens;
free, without crowding, placement of pots;
frequent airing of the room and maintaining high humidity;
placing indoor and cut flowers as far apart as possible, especially if it is roses or chrysanthemums;
mandatory sterilization before using pots, substrate, any tools;
treatment of all "wounds" inflicted on dracaena in;
implementation of recommendations for plant care, especially those related to irrigation and fertilizing;
maintaining cleanliness - regular dusting from leaves and other authorized water procedures.

Diagnose a problem

The plant gives the grower unambiguous signals. Deterioration of his appearance is a clear sign of health problems. It is important to correctly interpret these signs, and know what to do in each case.

Table: Symptoms and Possible Causes

External manifestations	Possible reasons
External manifestations	Mistakes in leaving	Disease	Pest
Yellowing and fading leaves.	Their life span is about two years. Otherwise, excessive irrigation
Turning pale, fading leaves, deforming, thinning trunks.	Deficit of light.
Falling green leaves.	Unsuitable room temperature (both high and too low), constant cold drafts.
Drying, curled and falling leaves.	Too scarce watering.
Dry brown leaf tips.	Low humidity in the room.
Dry tips and small areas of dead tissue on the leaves.	Excess fluoride in the soil - the use of unsuitable fertilizers or irrigation with hard not settled water.
Leaves that lose color saturation and yellowish or almost discolored spots on them.	Burn from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. It is almost inevitable if the plant has been sprayed before. Drops of water focus the rays no worse than lenses.
Yellowish-white spots on the leaves, dry edges.	Low temperature in the room or its sudden changes.
A discolored “watery” border around the edge of the sheet.	Excess fertilizer in the soil (too frequent fertilizing).
Blushing leaves.	Unsuitable too heavy soil with a predominance of peat.
Fine white crystals on the back of the sheet.	A natural phenomenon provoked by a single plentiful watering in combination with high humidity.
Slow growth or its complete absence.	Unsuitable soil, lack of top dressing for a long time or overly tight pot.
A flour-like coating on the leaves.
Browning soft-touch barrel.
Brownish spots, gradually pulled by a gray "pile".
Dark "watery" spots, softening tissue.
Yellowing leaves, covered with dark brown spots.
Reddish-yellow, gradually browning spots on the leaves.
Brown spots with bright green border on the leaves.
Small beige spots with a white dot in the center.
Elongated beige spots with a pale red border.
Blurry brown spots with yellow-green border.
Dark "watery" tips of leaves, "sores" on the trunk.
Brownish spots and stripes cast in bronze.
Yellow spots on leaves, braided by petioles.
Silver “scratches” and small black dots on the leaves.
Brown "plaques" on the leaves, reddish-yellow tissue around them.
Small lumps of whitish substance in the axils of the leaves and in the ground.
Many small yellow-green or black-brown insects on the underside of leaves and sticky drops on them.

What are the mistakes in leaving: examples in the photo

Dracaena, which has leaf tips dried, suffers from too low humidity or sunburn. Dracaena leaves can be dropped for several reasons, including natural ones. So most often it looks like dracaena before dropping leaves Dracaena can very easily get burned if sprayed leave the plant in direct sunlight Browning drying leaves of dracaena mean prolonged neglect of the plant's need for moisture The yellowing of the leaves of dracaena responds to overflow

Diseases and how to cope with them

Of the fungal diseases for dracaena, the most dangerous are all types of rot, which develop very quickly when irregularly irrigated. If at the same time the room temperature is still below normal, this is almost inevitable.

Table: Typical Dracaena Diseases

Disease	Symptoms	Treatment and prevention
Small rounded pale brown spots on the trunk and leaves with a whitish dot in the middle, quickly changing color to black-gray. Gradually, the tissues in these places die.	Wipe the leaves and trunk with infusion of wood ash or colloidal sulfur. Treat the plant and soil with a solution of Topaz, Oxychoma, Kuprozan. Repeat three times at 10-day intervals. During this time, do not water with plain water, but with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. For prevention once a month, treat the flower and soil with a 0.1% solution of Fundazolum, Topsin-M.
Elongated beige spots with a reddish border on the leaves. Gradually they are tightened with a layer of greenish-gray plaque.
Phyllosticosis (brown spotting)	Blurry spots of irregular shape beige-brown with lime border. Then in the middle small black “grains” are formed. At risk are adults and especially old dracaena.	Cut off all infected tissue. Remove specially affected leaves completely. Sprinkle the slices with activated carbon powder, chalk, cinnamon, treat with iodine or brilliant green. Spray the flower with a solution of Skor, Topaz, HOMA. Repeat three times (treatment once a week). During this time, add any biostimulant (Zircon, Epin, potassium humate) to the water for irrigation (2-3 ml per liter).
Dark brown “watery” tips of leaves, brown spots on them, small round “ulcers” on the trunk and petioles. Healthy tissues are separated from infected by a wide yellow “oily” streak.	There are no effective treatment measures. The bacteriosis is provoked by constant dampness in the pot, heat in the room, and alkaline soil unsuitable for dracaena.
Spotted wilting (bronze)	Leaves are almost completely covered with stripes and spots of irregular shape. Under artificial lighting, they are brownish, cast in the sun with bronze. Dracaena growth almost stops, new leaves are small and deformed.	With the help of modern means, it is impossible to get rid of the virus. Often suffer from spotted wilting plants that do not feed. A deficiency of potassium and phosphorus is harmful to dracen.
Yellowness spreading through the leaves from bottom to top. Along the edge is a "watery" border. The top of the trunk wilts. He himself is thinning, changing color to brick. In especially severe cases, dracaena is covered with “weeping” brown spots.	Wash the flower under a warm shower, remove the affected leaves. Cut the slices. Spray the plant and spill the soil with a solution of Fundazole, Vectra, Benomila. Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 3-5 days. If there is no effect, use "heavy artillery" - Quadris, Bravo, Rayek. For prevention, add Fitosporin-M to water for irrigation. In the soil when transplanting add Gumistar, Trikhovit.
Root (black) rot	Brown roots and base of the trunk, mold on the soil and an unpleasant putrefactive odor coming from it.	Remove the dracaena from the pot, thoroughly rinse off the substrate from the roots. Cut all dark and slimy to the touch, capturing 3-5 cm of tissue that seems healthy. Soak the roots for 20-30 minutes in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 0.5% bordeaux fluid. Sprinkle slices with sifted wood ash, colloidal sulfur. Transplant the plant into a sterilized pot using new soil. For 3-4 months, water with a 0.5% solution of Alirin-B, Baikal-EM, Previkur.
Bacterial (wet) rot	Dark "watery" spots on the leaves and trunk. Tissues in these places soften to a semi-liquid state.
Pale brown spots on the leaves, gradually dragging on a layer of grayish “pile” with multiple small black blotches.	Cut off all the leaves infected with the fungus. Treat the "wounds." Wipe them and pour the soil with a solution of Abig-Peak, Kuprozan, Topaz. For a month, water the dracaena with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (0.25 g / l).
Brown rot (rhizoctonia)	Dracaena stops growing. Leaves turn yellow, discolor, then become covered with black-brown spots.	Stop watering immediately. After 3-5 days for 10-12 hours, soak the roots in a solution of Bactofit, Agata-25K, Maxim. Let them dry well. If there is no effect, change the pot and the soil.
Small brownish spots with a bright green border on the leaves.	Cut off all affected leaves. Provide the plant with optimal or near-keeping conditions. Follow the recommendations for caring for dracaena.
Leaves, as if powdered with flour. Gradually, this plaque condenses and turns brown.	Wipe off the leaves, washing them with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Powder them with powdered activated carbon or colloidal sulfur. Pour Dracaena with a solution of any fungicide twice with an interval of 10-12 days.

Photo gallery: how a plant affected by pathogenic fungi and bacteria looks like

Powdery mildew seems to be a harmless coating that is easy to erase, but it is by no means. Brown spotting is a rather rare disease. Dracaena, affected by brown rot, practically stops growing. Gray rot is easy to recognize, but not easy to cure. Tissues affected by bacterial rot turn into in semi-liquid mass Root rot is very difficult to recognize on time, and the disease can only be treated in the early stages of development. Fusarium plants in the garden often suffer, but indoor plants are not protected from infection. The plant that suffers from spotted wilting can only be thrown out. It is still impossible to cure bacteriosis Phylostyctosis most often affects adults and old dracaena Greenish-gray plaque that appears as heterosporosis develops, contains fungal spores Tissues affected by alternariosis gradually die, holes remain on the leaves, holes remain on the leaves

Video: Dracaena Disease Treatment

Dracaena attacking pests

Most pests, even having bred in a multitude, will not kill dracaena. But this does not mean that they do not need to be fought. The plant did not “bring” any exotic insects from its historical homeland. You have to deal with the most common insects and ticks that feed on its juice.

Table: Common Pests

Pest	Symptoms	Control and Prevention Measures
Rounded "plaques" of different shades of brown on the wrong side of the sheet. Gradually they “swell”, the tissues around them acquire an unnatural yellow-red color. In severe cases, the soil turns black.	Grease visible shell pests with machine oil, acetic acid, and pure alcohol. After a few hours, the guards can be removed. Wipe the leaves with soap suds, rinse with water. Treat the plant with Actara, Permethrin, Fufanon. If necessary, repeat another 1-2 times with an interval of 5-7 days.
Thin, almost transparent filaments entwining petioles. On the underside of the leaf are brown dots and blurry pale or yellowish spots around them.	Wipe the leaves with alcohol, vodka or any alcohol tincture. After 15–20 minutes, use a damp sponge. Spray generously and pour dracaena, for 2-3 days, if possible, tightly close with polyethylene. To enhance the effect, put the same container with chopped onions, garlic, turpentine. If there is no result, use acaricides - Neoron, Agravertin, Sunmayt, Apollo. A minimum of 3-4 treatments with different drugs will be required. The interval between them is 5-12 days. For prevention, spray the plant with a decoction of cyclamen tubers weekly. Or irradiate the leaves with a quartz lamp for 2-3 minutes on both sides.
Discolored leaves, small black dots and silver-beige thin “scratches” visible on the inside.	Apply soap foam or whipped flea shampoo to the leaves, leave it under polyethylene for 2-3 days. Or spray it with an oil emulsion (35-40 ml of any vegetable oil per liter of water). Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 5-7 days. If there is no result, use Fitoverm, Spintor, Actellik (2-3 times with an interval of a week).
Lumps of dirty cotton-like plaque in the axils of the leaves and at the base of the trunk. Leaves quickly turn yellow and dry.	Spray Dracaena with a soap-alcohol solution. After 2-3 hours, wash the leaves with clean water. At the same time, remove the visible “lumps” with a wooden stick. Treat the flower and soil with infusion of tobacco chips, dry mustard, red pepper. Or apply on a leaf any preparation with Neem tree oil. If there is no effect, use Spark-Bio, Calypso, Mospilan (2-3 times with an interval of 5-10 days).
Large colonies of small insects clinging to the underside of leaves (especially young ones) and the top of the trunk. Then a sticky transparent coating appears.	Wipe off the insects with soapy foam. Cut off specially affected leaves. Arrange dracene souls. 3-4 times a day spray the plant with tinctures of orange peels, onion husks, needles, and any sharply smelling herbs. If there is no effect, treat Dracaena Biotlin, Admiral, Confidor-Maxi. Repeat every 5–7 days until aphids disappear completely.

Photo gallery: how dracaena-infecting pests look

Aphids are distinguished by a rare “omnivorous”, dracaena is also part of its interests. If you do not pay attention to the mealybug, the plant will very soon be covered with a continuous carpet of stirring “fluff.” Small black dots on the leaves are nothing other than thrips. Spider mite is not an insect , therefore, to combat it, not general insecticides are used, but special preparations - acaricides. Durable carapace of the scale shield - reliable protection against most folk remedies

Video: common pests of indoor plants and their control

Plant resuscitation

Most often, the dracaena requires urgent resuscitation, its owner is to blame. Most painfully, it reacts to improper watering - “drought” or “swamp” in the pot.

In the first case, cut off all the dry leaves to living tissue without touching the growth point at the top of the dracaena. Every 2-3 days, spray with a solution of any biostimulant. Rearrange as close to the southwest or southeast window. Water according to the instructions. If the roots are not affected, after 2-3 months the dracaena will give new leaves. When the growth point has dried up, you will have to cut it off and hope that the side kidneys “wake up”. But the chances of it are not so many.

In a waterlogged substrate, the development of rot is almost inevitable. Drazen needs to be transplanted as soon as possible, regardless of the time of year. But this procedure does not guarantee success; it will be effective only at an early stage of the development of the disease. In the process, be sure to cut off all the roots affected by the fungus, do not forget to sterilize a new pot and soil. At first, be very careful with watering, but spray the dracaena daily. Select the capacity according to the size of the root system (plus a maximum of 2-3 cm).

What to do with a broken palm dracaena

Dracaena is a fairly massive plant, so the aboveground part can simply outweigh the pot. Also, the “fractures” she often received are the result of the intense activity of children and domestic animals. In this case, do not be upset. If everything is done correctly, instead of one plant you will get two.

Broken dracaena - not a reason to arrange a tragedy

The easiest way is when the trunk broke, but did not break at all. “Tires” are placed on it, as if on an arm or leg, and the skin is fixed so that it covers the “wound” if possible. You can wrap strips of sphagnum moss or coconut fiber on top.

Do not forget to "seal" the cut

Otherwise, the remaining part of the plant in the pot:

Saw off the barrel just below the point of damage. It is advisable to do this according to the “scars” remaining from the fallen leaves.
Disinfect the section with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% m Bordeaux fluid.
Pour with liquid wax, paraffin, cover with garden var. If nothing is at hand, apply 2-3 coats of oil paint.
Put the plant in partial shade. Water sparingly. When growth buds form, return to normal care.

Also, material on methods of propagation of dracaena will be useful:

The side kidneys on the dracaena "wake up" for a long time, be patient

Broken tip:

Cut at an angle of approximately 45º. Try to do this as smoothly as possible, without “flaking” and chipping. Let it dry for 2-3 hours.
Tear off the interfering leaves. Put in a container with a biostimulator prepared according to the instructions. Succinic acid and activated carbon can be used (per tablet for every 200 ml). An alternative is rooting in wet perlite, vermiculite, sand. The slice will need to be sprinkled with any powdery root stimulator.
Change the water every 3-4 days, regularly moisten the substrate. Provide bottom heating, daylight hours of at least 12 hours and a temperature of approximately 25ºC.
Be patient. The rooting process can last 3-4 months or even six months. When the first new leaf appears, transplant the plant into soil suitable for adult dracaenas.

Most often, the broken tip of the dracaena is rooted in water

Video: rooting dracaena cuttings

Dracaena, like any houseplant, is not immune from attacks of diseases and pests. However, it is quite resistant to them, and a tree that is properly looked after rarely suffers. Nevertheless, individual errors in care, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can trigger a deterioration in the appearance of dracaena. If nothing is done, the plant may even die. Therefore, it is important to be able to recognize what caused these or other symptoms, and to know what to do to deal with the problem.