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Fuel fan home on solar panels. Experience in operation of uninterrupted power supply with solar panels in "country" conditions. Price automotive fan on the solar panel

An increasing amount of household appliances manufacturers begin to produce with the ability to work offline when alternative, renewable energy sources are used to power the devices.
One of the similar devices is the fans running on the solar battery.

Operating principle

The main elements included in the fan kit are no different from the usual device, the difference is only in the source of the energy that is the solar battery and what is usually a low power device, which is determined by the power of the solar battery to produce a certain amount of electrical energy.

The electrical current used to power the device is obtained by converting solar energy inside the photo cells that are the basis of the solar battery.

The transformation occurs inside the plates that are made of silicon. The photocell includes two plates (two layers), each of which is manufactured with the addition of various components. Thus, phosphorus is added to the upper plate (on the diagram P + layer), to the lower boron (on the scheme of the C-). Each of the plates, connected electrodes, to the upper - an external electrode, to the bottom - internal, anti-reflective coating is applied to the surface of the photocell.

Under the influence of sunlight, an overpressure of negatively charged particles is formed in the upper plate, and in the lower - so-called "holes". At the same time, the difference in potentials is formed between the layers, under the influence of which, when the load is connected, an electric current flows, due to the fact that differently charged particles are moving in opposite sides.

Negatively charged moving up, positively charged - down.

Electronic circuits, which are the main component of any electronic devices, operate on the created voltage and generated current, which makes it possible to ensure the power supply of household appliances connected to them.

Constructively, depending on the purpose and technical characteristics, the solar-powered fans can be very different.

Solar battery can be built into the housing or be made of remote design. The design of the housing and the material from which it is manufactured also selects the manufacturer, depending on the requirements for a specific model and its technical parameters.

For greenhouse

Each gardener knows that it is not enough to simply open the greenhouse doors in order to create the necessary microclimate inside it. To create forced circulation of air inside such shelters, fans are used, and one of the most convenient operating conditions are fans on the solar panel.

The main plus of the fan with solar batteries, when using it on the household plot, is that there is no need for an additional electrical networks, moreover, the costs of consumed electrical energy are absent, which is also important, with the cultivation of its vegetables and fruits.

As circulating fans, in greenhouses, the devices of the TMS series of Taiwan produced above can be used. The solar battery, in these models, is built into the device body, which only works during the daytime, in the presence of sunlight, at night is disconnected. The productivity of the model is 0.32 m3 per minute. Cost, in retail chains - from 3500.00 rubles.

With the need to move significant amounts of air masses, more powerful aggregates are used in which the solar panel is made of remote design, which allows its power to increase its power, and, accordingly, the power and performance of the fan.

The mode of operation of this unit is similar to the above, in the presence of lighting - work, in the absence - standby mode. The performance of such models is higher, cost - from 15000.00 rubles.

For cars

For car owners, fans are also available, capable of working from solar battery. These are low power fans that are placed under the windshield of the car and serve to create additional circulation inside the cabin air.

The appearance of similar devices may differ from the classic type of fan, to avant-garde forms inherent in the author's work of developers and designers.

The plus of this type of fan is that it is possible to ventilate a car interior with a muted engine, the energy of the car battery will not be used, which will save its charge.

For cap

The invention was suggested by Chinese developers, they made a fan for a cap, operating on solar energy.

At first glance, it may seem that this development is not for continuous use, but in connection with the relatively low cost and the ability to create an individual microclimate and comfort owner, this invention is already quite widely used by tourists in different countries of the world.

The cap is used to protect against the Sun, and the fan provides blowing, with direct sunlight. The cost of such products is from 500.00 rubles.

How to make it yourself

In order to make a power fan with a solar battery, it is enough to have any fan that runs on a constant voltage of 12.0 V (automotive or similar), as well as a solar pavement solar power.

By connecting the existing items into the electrical network, you can get the required result.

As a source of energy, you can use solar panels of other devices with USB connectors, by which the fan can be connected. It can be: camping lamp, solar lamp or spotlight, as well as an external battery.

Fan on the solar battery

The easiest way to cool the house is, of course, the same conditioner. However, it is not cheap. It is much cheaper to use an inexpensive ventilation system, which in front of the turn prevents air overheating indoors and increase humidity. The ventilation system should be installed in such a way as to remove air from the attic. Why exactly the attic? Because he is the source of all problems.

It all starts early in the morning, as soon as the sun begins to illuminate the roof. I do not know, you know or not, but the roof tile is quite effectively absorbs solar radiation. Covered roof bitumen is especially well attracted and saved solar heat.

Then the heat from the roof is transmitted by air filling the attic. During the day, more and more heat enters the airspace attic. Now, another mechanism comes into effect inside the attic, it is well known that warm air under the impossible up, and the cold goes down. Since the air in the attic is not mixed, then the temperature is created in the house shown in Fig. 1. The layered temperature distribution determines the accumulation of heat. We have a huge heat reservoir that must be used.

In many homes, it becomes too hot because of the penetration of heat from the attic. When you turn on the air conditioner, you are trying to remove heat from the residential premises to make the conditions more comfortable. However, at the same time, the attic continues to heat the house. Such confrontation is expensive and does not lead to the desired results.

The only way to stop this influx of heat from the attic to the residential premises is to insulate the house from the attic. Very effective thermal insulation with glass gambles. The layer of glass gamblets with a thickness of no more than 15 cm, a stripping ceiling, significantly affects the amount of heat penetrating down.

However, no isolation will be able to completely extinguish the lower rooms from the penetration of heat from the attic. Heat will penetrate the living quarters due to heat transfer and radiation.

To illustrate this, consider such an example. Suppose that the attic of your home has dimensions of 9x 12 m (area 108 m2). If the temperature in the attic is an average of 55 ° C, and you want the temperature in the residential room not exceeded 27 ° C, then the best, to which you can count is to achieve heat transfer not exceeding 2000 J / h. And this is in the case of a perfect insulation system. For an ordinary house with a single-layer insulation of the ceiling, heat penetration is about 4500 J / h.

The experimental way is established that for neutralization of 9000 J heat conditioning should pump 1 tons of air. Thus, to eliminate the effect of heating, the attic We will need to pump the air conditioner extra 0.5 tons of air!

Cooling mechanisms

However, the actual amount of heat penetrating down depends on the temperature difference in the attic and in the house. The temperature difference is 5 ° C corresponds to thousands of Joule. Consequently, the colder in the attic, the less air conditioning works.

How can you cool the attic? You just need to avoine it! There are very rare cases when the outdoor temperature is larger than air temperature in the attic, where it is usually hot as in the stove; You can cool the attic, replacing the hot, stagnant air in it is colder out.

This is relatively easy to implement, burning the vent hole in the roof near its crest and installing the exhaust fan in it. The fan pumps the cold air through the roof protruding cornice and pulls out of the attic heated, stagnant air through the vent hole.

Mixing hot and cold air and eliminates temperature differences (Fig. 2). It should be noted how it affected the temperature inside the attic. Now the temperature is distributed more evenly, and the average temperature dropped.

I want to note that a very large fan will be required to ventilate the attic. The goal will be achieved if the exchange of air in the attic will be carried out approximately every 3 min.

Basic fan elements

The size of the fan is determined by the size of the attic. The attic of standard sizes (9x 12 m2) has a volume of approximately 135 m3. To exchange such a volume of air every 4 min, a fan is required, which will pump up 34 m3 / min.

If the size of the attic is less, the fan of less power will be required. The ratio here is simple: the scope of the attic in M3 is divided into the desired time of air change (in min) and the fan performance is obtained. For example 135 m3 / 4 min ~ 34 m3 / min. The fan is driven by a small DC electric motor, the characteristic of which is usually linear: the more power supply to it, the faster it rotates.

Such a circulation of air inside the attic determines the flow. Changing any of these values \u200b\u200bwill cause power change. For example, a motor voltage 12 V at a current can rotate at a speed of 6000 rpm. If we reduce the electrical energy supply to the motor with a decrease in voltage to 6 V, then the rotational speed will decrease by 2 times and will become equal to 3000 rpm.

On the other hand, if in the same motor at 12 V at 3 A rotating at the same speed of 6000 rpm, reduce the current 2 times, while maintaining the voltage at the same level (12 V at 1.5 A), it turns out the same Result: Motor rotation speed will be 3000 rpm. Considering the principle of operation of photovoltaic converters, an understanding of the reason for changing the rotational speed of a motor with a change in current consumed is especially important.

The amount of air that will distill the blades of the fan, directly proportional to the speed of rotation. This indicates the possibility of regulating the air flow by simply changing the rotational speed of the motor.

There is no doubt that photoelectric converters can be used to power the exhaust fan. Such a choice is most preferable. It should be noted that when connecting a photoelectric source to the electric motor of the fan there is an interesting relationship.

Photoelectric solar cells can usually be considered as current sources. With low illumination, the solar battery generates a small current, although the voltage remains normal. As a result, the fan (if it rotates) rotates slowly and, therefore, pumps only a small amount of air.

This circumstance is just responsible for the task of warping the attic. In the morning the roof is practically not heated, and at this time of the day in ventilation there is no need or need only a small ventilation.

In the afternoon, with an increase in solar radiation, increasing power is supplied to the fan motor from photovoltaic converters, and the speed of rotation of the fan increases. With an increase in solar insolation, an increasing amount of heat enters the attic room. It should be noted that an increase in the speed of rotation of the fan (air exchanging) is observed when there is a need.

In the evening, the intensity of solar radiation decreases again, the roof absorbs a smaller amount of heat and the need for ventilation decreases. This is consistent with the change in the output power of photovoltaic converters, which rotate the fan at a lower speed.

As a result, we have developed a self-regulating ventilation system attic that supports its temperature at a relatively constant level. Usually, the fan control, depending on the heating, the attic is carried out by the mechanical thermal switch.

For the purposes mentioned, two available serial fans were selected, designed specifically for such applications. We place our photoelectric sources near the fans. Remember, it is not less that you can use any suitable combination of a motor and fan.

First Fan - Exhaust Fan Fan Solarex Corp. Addresses of firms producing both fans can be found in the list of details. (It should be noted that at the same time we did not try to compare one fan with another.)

Solar battery

The fan rotates the DC motor with a voltage of 12 V. Nevertheless, to increase the service life, Solarex recommends to feed the motor with a voltage of 6 V. when connected to a photoelectric battery, developing 6 V at a current of 1.2 A, the fan will provide air exchange at a speed of 10 m3 / min.

It is difficult to develop a battery with a capacity of 7 W, satisfying the mentioned requirements. First, it is necessary to imagine the required maximum current strength. As mentioned above, it corresponds to 1.2 A.

It is well known that a round solar cell with a diameter of 7.5 cm produces a current of 1.2 A.. In fact, it is possible to find a rather cheap substandard elements of 7.5 cm, which develop "only" 1 A. These elements are suitable for the purposes mentioned.

To achieve power in 7 W at maximum solar radiation intensity, 12 elements will be required. Elements can be soldered sequentially by placing them in 3 rows of 4 elements in each. In the manufacture of batteries, follow the recommendations that are applied in ch. 1. If substitial elements per 1 A are selected for use in the design, then to compensate for their defectiveness, it is necessary to increase the number of elements in the battery for 2 and bring their number to 14.

The second fan, which we will look at, comes with WM. LAMB. Its diameter is 35 cm; It is equipped with a linear electric motor with ball bearings. Pressed ball bearings prolong the service life of the motor. The motor is powered by any voltage: 6-48 V. For our purposes, the manufacturer recommends using a voltage of 12V.

The solar generator with a capacity of 30 W will rotate the fan at a rate sufficient to exchange air, about 30 m3 / min, while the battery with a capacity of 7 W will provide its energy sufficient to exchange air at a speed of 14 m3 / min. In fig. 3 shows the dependence of the air exchange rate from the power of the photoelectric converter.

In accordance with one of the options for installing the ventilation device, you will need to do the roof holes. Since any roof work is conjugate with the risk of possible water leaks, accuracy is the key to successful performance.

At first, the circular hole in the roof is dug in the roof. Both fans are supplied fixed in metal casing, and the hole in the roof should accurately correspond to the diameter of the casing. It is necessary to make sure that the place for the opening is selected between the roof rafters!

Then the fan is installed in the hole. Now the metal reflector is placed around the device, and all possible slots are abundantly flooded in order to avoid leaks. To prevent rain from entering through the conducted a hole of the ventilator, the latator is covered with a cap cone or U-shaped.

If there is no desire to make a hole in the roof, there is another option. The fan can be strengthened over one of the ventilation holes located under the roof cornice. The best way for this is to strengthen the fan at an angle of 45 ° to the attic flooring. It is recommended to make a frame from a pair of frames having a aspect ratio of 2: 1 (Fig. 4), and then attach the fan to one of them (Fig. 5). After that, you can place the frame over the ventilation hole. Make sure that the hole is large enough and all the exchanger air passes through it, otherwise the fan will work not quite effectively.

The solar panel is fixed on the roof of the roof facing south and joins the fan. It is better to lower the wires to the edge of the roof and conduct them through the ventilation hole in the eaves, than to drill for them in the roof special hole: less likely to break the roof.

When connecting the solar battery to the fan, attention is drawn to the direction of rotation of the electric motor. At one direction of rotation, the air will be pulled out, with a friend - to draw into the room. If the fan does not rotate in the appropriate direction, it is necessary to change the supply wires in places.

List of parts

20 cm diameter fan comes with Energy Sciences 832 Rockville Pike Rockville, MD 20852 Contact: Larry Miller

The fan with a diameter of 30 cm is supplied by WM. LAMB Co. 10615 CHANDLER BLVD. NORTH HOLLYWOOD, CA 91601

Photoelectric battery (see text)

Alternative "net" energy, behind which, undoubtedly, the future, in some cases it can be a natural and practical choice now. First of all, in cases where it is necessary to provide electricity to a low-power consumer located "in the pure field". And a private house, if everything is chosen and built, taking into account the requirements of energy saving (and you, for example, do not plan to use electricity for heating), is just an example of such a "low-power" consumer. Yes, unlike the apartment, it is also added here and, as a rule, borehole pumps for autonomous water supply and various garden technicians, but setting the goal, it is quite realistic to power it all from the solar system, complemented by the wind generator and for the suspension - some gas or diesel generator. Moreover, the latter will turn on extremely rarely if everything is calculated true.

And it can be cheaper than connecting to the power line individually. Therefore, in the Russian conditions, probably, the lack of "collective" power supply is the most common cause of interest in alternative power sources. But in my opinion, there is at least another argument in favor of "green" systems, and it is solar, even if there are a "public" 220 volts.

The fact is that the stability of nutrition, even in the suburbs, beyond the city can leave much to be desired. And in the case of my country village, a bottleneck is a high-voltage line with a narrow place from the village to the village. Trees, alas, fall from the wind, and this circumstance is unknown, it seems, only to those who consider the normal laying of air lines in the broadening of ten meters wide. However, it may be, the cable laying in the ground is more expensive than the periodic replacement of pillars affected by the neighboring pine. And this is all wisely calculated.

I would like to believe, but it doesn't work in any way, because here the Russian tradition is visible: first to make somehow, but cheaper, and then spend time and resources on the latch of holes (and sincerely wondering: why not enough for new money?). Accordingly, make more expensive and better "first" to save "then" - much easier in private.

And since about once in the season there are a "good" thunderstorm, after which the week goes to lift the line, and even more, not counting more short-term disabilities, he hardly wanted to obtain their own supply of autonomy. Ideally, such that not to notice all this disgrace at all. The diesel or gasoline option almost immediately disappeared, we even bought it. But the desire to chase this is the vigorous and stinking miracle of technology, having come to enjoy communication with nature, turned out to be lower than the need for electricity. It is better to do with candles or leave to the city. Accordingly, this topic has gained relevance when she wanted to settle in the house on a more or less permanent basis.

Meanwhile, the peculiarity of the summer house is that the mass activity is occurred there in the summer, when solar energy, even on the latitude of Moscow, even eliminate. Actually, the trees are falling mostly in the summer. So it was usually: the thunderstorm passed, the sun shines, but no electricity. And the interest in the "solar" energy has already been supported by buying a solar collector for water heating. In particular, quite compact (12 tubes of 1.8 m) confidently copes with the task of extending the "bathing season" in the 12-cubic basin about a month compared to natural heating.

Therefore, about a year ago, the system was collected about which I want to tell. Specially paid the attention of the prehistory to not enter into discussions on the benefit of the solar systems compared to traditional. Sometimes, as we see, there are arguments in addition to the cost of kilowatta.

Go to the selection of components for solar systems.

Solar panels

So, let's start with solar panels. In order to reduce the efficiency and cost, there are batteries based on single crystal, polycrystalline and amorphous silicon. The absolute majority of branded batteries belong to the first type, which in itself is considered the most durable, cells degrade slower.

By the way, if the house is small, and you do not have any conveniently located shed with a big southern slope, then in practice it may be that there are not so many batteries. And it makes sense to take a model with the largest efficiency per unit area, if you really want to build a system with sufficiently high energy availability. Since it is necessary to place the batteries on the southern slope of the roof, preferably at an angle of 45 degrees.

According to the installation method, there are batteries mounted in the roof on the mansard windows manner (in fact only from the company Roto with a completely unbearable cost). And the rest is the simple panels embedded in the aluminum frame that are attached to the overhead rails. The minus of the latter is that the roof is to drill, and not all coating will withstand such coarse interference without leaks. However, this is the only running option that was selected.

As for the batteries themselves, Zelenograd single-crystal batteries turned out to be a good option for the ratio of price and quality. Nevertheless, they are fairly buying in Germany. Therefore, being in Russia, it is logical and even nice to be able to take advantage of at least something related to electronics, but local production.

Three batteries (TCM-170B) were acquired with a capacity of 170 W and a size of 158 × 82 cm. The calculation in this case was simple: to get a sufficient charging current into cloud weather, as well as in the morning and evening so that the energy balance is minimized to work The refrigerator is arbitrarily for a long time. Since the consumption of the refrigerator is about 100-200 W, and it works with interruptions, such a load described by the version is completely able - of course, in the presence of buffer batteries.

In real conditions, when the sun shines, and people in the house live, energy should be enough and to use household appliances, pump water, etc. Even with a long absence of external power supply. No frills, but without a special economy regime. In any case, I expected so much, and now I can confirm that the calculation was justified.

Solar controller

Standard voltage of solar panels and voltage that needs to be maintained for charge batteries does not coincide. Rather, the voltage at the outlet of the solar panel is changing from zero to the maximum depending on the illumination, and without intermediate conversion it is not necessary.

In the simplest case, you need a controller that would disconnect the batteries when the charge has achieved maximum, and connected it, when, first, recharging is required, and, secondly, the output voltage of the solar cell massif corresponds to the required charge. But this is a very inefficient method.

Therefore, in modern inexpensive controllers, the PHIM modulation is used, which allows you to obtain an acceptable voltage and current for charge in a larger input range. The disadvantage here is that you still need to at least combine the output voltage of the solar panel array with a voltage of the battery array.

Finally, the most universal and effective method is offered by MPPT controllers, which are capable of converting the voltage in a much larger range and during operation track the point of maximum power, and, accordingly, it allows you to remove the maximum energy and provide charging in the early morning to twilight. In my case, the option with such a controller was the only adequate, since three solar panels, as none of them, were given a non-standard voltage. Well, with such a controller, it is possible to connect consistently, which is more convenient (less wires), and less loss during transmission, since the same power is transmitted at maximum voltage and, it means less. And this is also important if the house is high, and from solar panels to the rest of the electronics and batteries there will be ten cables meters, or even more.

Perhaps the most famous and popular MPPT controllers are made by MorningStar. The selected TRISTAR-MPPT-45 model is calculated on the charging current of 45 and, which is definitely excessively (but low-power MPPT controllers practically not to find, and moreover, the requirements of NEC imply a reserve of 25% over the current, that is, a real permissible current is obtained not higher than 36 A, and, roughly speaking, it is possible to charge such a controller with batteries of batteries within 360 a · h). The battery voltage of the batteries can be arbitrary from the row: 12, 24, 48 and 36 V. and finally, the input voltage from solar panels should be within 150 V. Of course, with such characteristics, the pairing is not the slightest problem.

Inverter + Charger

By connecting batteries with batteries, it is logical to think about the second half of the chain, that is, we need the ability to feed the external network from batteries, as well as charge them from this network itself.

In the general case, the inverter is needed, a charger and a relay that switched the load when the input voltage disappears. Fortunately, there are models of inverters, where all these functions are combined, which is important if we want to achieve completely autonomous and maintenance-free work - since individual inverters often require a restart manually after they have exhausted the battery life and disconnected, etc.

Actually, on the work algorithm it is necessary to pay attention and when choosing a universal device. It is important that it automatically starts the battery charge after the voltage appears in the network. It is also important that the disconnection voltage for the inverter is set up above the shutdown voltage of the solar controller. In this case, the batteries will start charging immediately: either how "will give a current", or when the morning comes. Even if in the evening the batteries sit down.

Since high-quality models of inverters usually have a 2-3-fold power supply, and this is not an emergency, namely the standard mode of operation, it is quite correct to choose the nominal power in accordance with the real maximum that you may need. To do this, it is usually enough to fold the power of the well pump in the steady mode of operation and the power of the refrigerator compressor and add 20-30% of the reserve on the "light bulbs" and other household small things that you will be involved to connect to the backup line.

Yes, of course, it is assumed that the backup line is paced by a separate cable, and the outlet makes sense to designate so that they will not be accidentally enabled any iron. In general, "work" to ensure that the simultaneous load is as little as possible, it makes sense primarily for the sake of the battery resource. As you know, if the discharge current exceeds the optimal for the battery, its real container may be significantly less than the stated. And this is not in our interests.

In my case, it turned out 700 + 200 V · a "necessary for sure." And taking into account the fact that the pump over time may be required and more powerful, for the backup line it was optimal to choose a model with a power in the range of 1500 V · a.

After a very short meditation, I chose Outback GFX1424E. This model is definitely expensive for its capacity at 1400 V · a. But, as I have already noted, chasing the power in the case of inverters for the home reserve line is meaningless. It is unlikely that anyone will put the appropriate battery battery to actually be able to load them by 2-3 kilowatts of the load. It is much more interesting in this case to pay for additional functions and, of course, quality.

The latter is especially important, given that the device has to work around the clock and in a separate room unattended. What exactly attracted in this device:

  • Produced in the USA. It so happened that how the synonym for the reliability of technology is most often used by the phrase "German quality". Meanwhile, American products often also become stronger and serves as long as the technological level of the country, at least, is not inferior, but there is no such tough economy on materials as in Europe.
  • Sealed housing. Accordingly, the device is protected from dust, moisture and insects. No, in the house, of course, purely, but in the rooms it is unlikely to put a rack with electrical engineering - the garage or basement is suitable for this. And the device of the usual layout with ventilation grids will necessarily pump with its dust fan - let it not immediately, but in a year or two exactly. It is possible that some spider will arrange an emergency situation even earlier :)
  • Low noise. The inverter is not quite silent: there is a high-frequency squeak in some modes, as well as despite the sealed housing, which plays the role of the radiator, inside there is a slumbling fan, which sometimes turns on and distinguishes air from more heated components to the radiator. But even at the maximum load (that is, actually in reservation mode) noise does not exceed 40 dBA, and in standby mode, when the battery is charging, and the ambient temperature exceeds 25 degrees - no more than 35 dBA. It is very small, most desktop computers are louder during operation, well, and classic inverters with fans are obviously more noisy.
  • Low power consumption (18 W in simple, 6 W in STANDBY mode). It should be borne in mind that you can use the sleeping regime if there are no low-power consumers in need of constant nutrition in the house. The most common example of such a consumer is the protection system (alarm).
  • Pure sinusoid. Formally, even sensitive supply voltage devices are able to mostly endure an approximated sinusoid. In any case, when it comes to engines - taking into account that in the backup power mode, they will work only a minor part of the time. But, of course, the correct form of sinus is the function that is worth paying. Or rather, there are considerations here from the opposite: the inverters with approximation occupy the lowest (initial) segment on the market, and they have many drawbacks of a purely constructive property, in addition to the actual voltage form. It is seriously and for a long time to calculate naively.
  • Well, the most curious feature that finally bowed the choice in favor of this device is the possibility of electricity exports. In other words, when the batteries are charged completely, an inverter is turned on, and excess energy coming from solar panels (or other alternative sources connected to a low-voltage circuit circuit parallel to batteries), sent to the outer chain. Accordingly, first compensated for internal consumption, and if it remains also for neighbors, it can be observed as the counter is spinning in the opposite direction. This, of course, is nice, because only for the sake of reservation to collect such a system is not very interesting (still most of the time the external network is working). But why not enjoy your energy?

It is necessary to add that inverter's scored with the charger is not all have an export function. And if you collect the system from individual components, you will have to buy another additional controller and may be obedient with programming and setting. There is already a sense in such a strapping only, if you have collected a rather serious alternative power plant.

In this case, I was also not quite sure that everything would turn out automatically. All the same, the solar controller is taken by another manufacturer, and both devices provide programming (a separate panel is attached to the inverter, and the solar controller is connected via the COM port). And just a possibility to select thresholds for charge batteries and export modes.

However, since the assembly of the entire system has been trapped by midnight, I postponed the setting and programming until the morning. And in the morning it was found that the charge of batteries was already over, and since there was no particular in the house at this moment, the counter really spinned in the opposite direction. Everything worked as follows.

About measurements that managed to do, I'll tell you at the end; I will only add that the possibility of exports is tested when using an electromechanical meter, which is easily distinguished by a rotating disk. Electronic can not work this moment as it should, that is, the current you will give out, but solely for charitable purposes. In the meantime, a few words remain about choosing batteries.

Batteries

To build home systems of autonomous power supply, lead-acid accumulators of a closed type are used. The so-called VRLA - Valve Regulated LEAD-ACID, that is, with the valve control of the secreted gases. There are two types of such batteries: AGM (ABSORBED Glass Mat), in which the electrolyte between the plates is in fiberglass capsules, and gel. In the latter case, thickeners are added to the electrolyte, and in the production of the battery, this electrolyte is flashed onto the plates.

And if gel batteries are more often used in compact sources of uninterrupted power, then for high-capacity systems, the most popular are AGM models that have been selected.

Because the budget was not rubber, two batteries of the budget producer Leoch DJM12-200 with a capacity of 200 a · h each were taken.

Such a large stock is necessary in order for the short-term load of high power (pump) to create, however, the current within the favorable mode for batteries. As we see in the diagram, in order for the reservation time to truly constitute a clock, and not a minute, it is desirable that the current in the low-voltage chain does not exceed 0.2C (that is, the fifth part of the tank). The batteries were connected sequentially because the inverter was selected with the support of a 24-volt chain, and it is also favorable to reduce losses in connections.

Connect into the system

Here everything is quite trivial: the general rule is to minimize the length of low-voltage chains. Therefore, an inverter, a solar controller and batteries are better to place on one rack or just nearby.

In my case it turned out like this. The wires from solar panels connected in series are connected to the solar controller (wire makes sense to take the thoroughly - from 6 mm², and better 10, if the house is high, and you are going to put the electronics in the basement). The output of the solar controller, like the output of the inverter, is connected to batteries connected, in turn, sequentially. In the battery chain, it is also necessary to put a special DC automatic machine to protect the inverter and for easy to turn off the system, if necessary.

As tires for a positive and negative pole, it turned out to be the most convenient to use the outputs of the inverter. Here you can also pick up the wind generator and all other sources of energy, if the passion for alternative energy will go into the chronic stage of the disease. As already noted, the ballast will not need and batteries will not recharge - the inverter will simply give excessive electricity to the external network.

Multiple tests

First of all, it should be noted that the goal is not to notice short-term shutdowns (for several hours) and not particularly change their plans for the day due to the night thunderstorm mentioned - fully achieved. There was a long-lasting shutdown (within a week) when we were in departure, and there would be no doubt, at return, they found a well-known refrigerator, in the freezer of which any respected dacket stores part of the harvest. And if there were no solar batteries in the chain, then, of course, this result could not be achieved.

TOTAL 4.5 kW. Since only a fridge, laptop and lighting (energy-saving lamps, in the evening) worked at this time at this time, and a borehole pump was worked within 30-40 minutes a day, the total consumption was 7.2 kW. That is, indeed, almost half of the consumption, even taking into account the most favorable weather conditions, the solar panels were compensated.

Although, I emphasize, this is a "side effect", the goals to save on electricity in this case was not put. As for the issues of savings, if you look closely to alternative energy from this point of view, first of all it makes sense to translate the most cost article - water heating - from electricity on a direct source of heat. That is, if we talk about savings and tie it to the use of the energy of the Sun, it is better to start with a simple solar collector. And if you like the experience, then you will probably want to try another source of alternative energy. Since the occupation is contagious and fascinating.

Supplement (to the discussion on the forum)

First of all, it is necessary to add that no danger "for electricians" the device in power export mode does not represent. As it is easy to guess, the issuance of power into the network stops in the absence of external voltage (or rather even after it is reduced relative to the user-programmed minimum threshold). In this case, the inverter goes into battery life and only the backup line remains under the voltage, and, accordingly, only the equipment you connect to it. Over the year, there were quite a lot of shutdowns, and there is no complaints to the inverter of claims.

The batteries themselves do not more need maintenance than ordinary window glass. In other words, if your attic window clearly indicates the need for washing, do not forget to wipe and panels. In the case of an environmentally friendly location, away from the trails, by experience, cleaning is required no more than once a year. In the late spring after flowering trees. But this year, for example, because of abundant precipitation, I did not have to wash the windows. Nevertheless, unlike vertical glasses, inclined well cleaned rain. Winter batteries in most users who managed to poll through one of the companies installer, under the snow, there are also no problems. Although, of course, if you plan to remove tension and winter, then place the batteries are better at a large angle or on some swivel bracket so that the snow is not delayed.

When choosing the inverter, I strongly recommend watching the specification on starting currents, they have good models several times superior to normal power. Accordingly, you should not trust the "sensations" or the advice of those who want to sell the equipment "with the reserve". The stock is necessary, but it is necessary to count it not for "sensations", but on measurements.

By the way, just the other day, a strong thunderstorm again "surprised" the unlucky suburbs of the energy seals with a drop of pines. And electricity was not about a day. And as always, the sun brightly shone the sun, performing his useful work.

The easiest way to cool the house is to install air conditioning in it. However, he is expensive and ineffective. It is much cheaper to use an inexpensive ventilation system, which primarily prevents air overheating indoors and increase humidity.

The ventilation system should be installed in such a way as to remove air from the attic. Why exactly the attic? Because he is the source of all problems.

It all starts early in the morning, as soon as the sun begins to illuminate the roof. I do not know, you know or not, but the roof tile is quite effectively absorbs solar radiation. Bitumin-covered roofs are especially well attracted and saved solar heat.

Then the heat from the roof is transmitted by air filling the attic. During the day, more and more heat enters the airspace attic. Now, another mechanism comes into effect inside the attic, it is well known that warm air under the impossible up, and the cold goes down. Since the air in the attic is not mixed, then the temperature is created in the house shown in Fig. 1. The layered temperature distribution determines the accumulation of heat. We have a huge heat reservoir that must be used.

In many homes, it becomes too hot because of the penetration of heat from the attic. When you turn on the air conditioner, you are trying to remove heat from the residential premises to make the conditions more comfortable. However, at the same time, the attic continues to heat the house. Such confrontation is expensive and does not lead to the desired results.

The only way to stop this influx of heat from the attic to the residential premises is to insulate the house from the attic. Very effective thermal insulation with glass gambles. The layer of glass gamblets with a thickness of no more than 15 cm, a stripping ceiling, significantly affects the amount of heat penetrating down.

Cooling mechanisms

However, no isolation will be able to completely extinguish the lower rooms from the penetration of heat from the attic. Heat will penetrate the living quarters due to heat transfer and radiation.

To illustrate this, consider such an example. Suppose that the attic of your home has dimensions of 9x12 m (area 108 m2). If the temperature in the attic is an average of 55 ° C, and you want the temperature in the residential room not exceeded 27 ° C, the best thing to be calculated is to achieve heat transfer, not exceeding 2000 J / h. And this is in the case of a perfect insulation system. For an ordinary house with a single-layer insulation of the ceiling, heat penetration is about 4500 J / h.


Fig.1

The experimental way is established that for neutralization of 9000 J heat conditioning should pump 1 tons of air. Thus, to eliminate the effect of heating, the attic We will need to pump the air conditioner extra 0.5 tons of air!

However, the actual amount of heat penetrating down depends on the temperature difference in the attic and in the house. The temperature difference is 5 ° C corresponds to thousands of Joule. Consequently, the colder in the attic, the less air conditioning works.

Ventilation attic

How can you cool the attic? You just need to avoine it! There are very rare cases when the outdoor temperature is larger than air temperature in the attic, where it is usually hot as in the stove; You can cool the attic, replacing the hot, stagnant air in it is colder out.

This is relatively easy to implement, burning the vent hole in the roof near its crest and installing the exhaust fan in it. The fan pumps the cold air through the roof protruding cornice and pulls out of the attic heated, stagnant air through the vent hole.

Such a circulation of air inside the attic causes the mixing of hot and cold air and eliminates the temperature differences (Fig. 2). It should be noted how it affected the temperature inside the attic. Now the temperature is distributed more evenly, and the average temperature dropped.


Fig.2

I want to note that a very large fan will be required to ventilate the attic. The goal will be achieved if the exchange of air in the attic will be carried out approximately every 3 min.

The size of the fan is determined by the size of the attic. The attic of standard sizes (9x12 m2) has a volume of approximately 135 m3. To exchange such a volume of air every 4 min, a fan is required, which will pump up 34 m3 / min.

Basic fan elements

The fan is driven by a small DC electric motor, the characteristic of which is usually linear: the more power supply to it, the faster it rotates. It is known that power depends on two values: voltage and current. Changing any of these values \u200b\u200bwill cause power change.

For example, a motor voltage 12 V at a current can rotate at a speed of 6000 rpm. If we reduce the electrical energy supply to the motor with a decrease in voltage to 6 V, then the rotational speed will decrease by 2 times and will become equal to 3000 rpm.

On the other hand, if in the same motor at 12 V at 3 A rotating at the same speed of 6000 rpm, reduce the current 2 times, while maintaining the voltage at the same level (12 V at 1.5 A), it turns out the same Result: Motor rotation speed will be 3000 rpm. Considering the principle of operation of photovoltaic converters, an understanding of the reason for changing the rotational speed of a motor with a change in current consumed is especially important.

The amount of air that will distill the blades of the fan, directly proportional to the speed of rotation. This indicates the possibility of regulating the air flow by simply changing the rotational speed of the motor.

Solar battery

There is no doubt that photoelectric converters can be used to power the exhaust fan. Such a choice is most preferable. It should be noted that when connecting a photoelectric source to the electric motor of the fan there is an interesting relationship.

Photoelectric solar cells can usually be considered as current sources. With low illumination, the solar battery generates a small current, although the voltage remains normal. As a result, the fan (if it rotates) rotates slowly and, therefore, pumps only a small amount of air.

This circumstance is just responsible for the task of warping the attic. In the morning the roof is practically not heated, and at this time of the day in ventilation there is no need or need only a small ventilation.

In the afternoon, with an increase in solar radiation, increasing power is supplied to the fan motor from photovoltaic converters, and the speed of rotation of the fan increases. With an increase in solar insolation, an increasing amount of heat enters the attic room. It should be noted that an increase in the speed of rotation of the fan (air exchanging) is observed when there is a need.

In the evening, the intensity of solar radiation decreases again, the roof absorbs a smaller amount of heat and the need for ventilation decreases. This is consistent with the change in the output power of photovoltaic converters, which rotate the fan at a lower speed.

As a result, we have developed a self-regulating ventilation system attic that supports its temperature at a relatively constant level. Usually, the fan control, depending on the heating, the attic is carried out by the mechanical thermal switch.

Design of solar battery

For the purposes mentioned, two available serial fans were selected, designed specifically for such applications. We place our photoelectric sources near the fans. Remember, it is not less that you can use any suitable combination of a motor and fan.

First Fan - Exhaust Fan Fan Solarex Corp.

The fan rotates the DC motor with a voltage of 12 V. Nevertheless, to increase the service life, Solarex recommends to feed the motor with a voltage of 6 V. when connected to a photoelectric battery, developing 6 V at a current of 1.2 A, the fan will provide air exchange at a speed of 10 m3 / min.

It is difficult to develop a battery with a capacity of 7 W, satisfying the mentioned requirements. First, it is necessary to imagine the required maximum current strength. As mentioned above, it corresponds to 1.2 A.

It is well known that a round solar cell with a diameter of 7.5 cm produces a current of 1.2 A.. In fact, it is possible to find a rather cheap substandard elements of 7.5 cm, which develop "only" 1 A. These elements are suitable for the purposes mentioned.

To achieve power in 7 W at maximum solar radiation intensity, 12 elements will be required. Elements can be soldered sequentially by placing them in 3 rows of 4 elements in each. If substandard elements are selected for use in the design, then to compensate for their defectivity, it is necessary to increase the number of elements in the battery for 2 and bring their number to 14.

The second fan, which we will look at, comes with WM. LAMB. Its diameter is 35 cm; It is equipped with a linear electric motor with ball bearings. Pressed ball bearings prolong the service life of the motor. The motor is powered by any voltage: 6-48 V. For our purposes, the manufacturer recommends using a voltage of 12V.

The solar generator with a capacity of 30 W will rotate the fan at a rate sufficient to exchange air, about 30 m3 / min, while the battery with a capacity of 7 W will provide its energy sufficient to exchange air at a speed of 14 m3 / min. In fig. 3 shows the dependence of the air exchange rate from the power of the photoelectric converter.


Fig. 3.

Setting design on the roof

In accordance with one of the options for installing the ventilation device, you will need to do the roof holes. Since any roof work is conjugate with the risk of possible water leaks, accuracy is the key to successful performance.

At first, the circular hole in the roof is dug in the roof. Both fans are supplied fixed in metal casing, and the hole in the roof should accurately correspond to the diameter of the casing. It is necessary to make sure that the place for the opening is selected between the roof rafters!

Then the fan is installed in the hole. Now the metal reflector is placed around the device, and all possible slots are abundantly flooded in order to avoid leaks. To prevent rain from entering through the hole made, the fan is covered with a cap cone or U-shaped.

If there is no desire to make a hole in the roof, there is another option. The fan can be strengthened over one of the ventilation holes located under the roof cornice. The best way for this is to strengthen the fan at an angle of 45 ° to the attic flooring. It is recommended to make a frame from a pair of frames having a aspect ratio of 2: 1 (Fig. 4), and then attach the fan to one of them (Fig. 5). After that, you can place the frame over the ventilation hole. Make sure that the hole is large enough and all the exchanger air passes through it, otherwise the fan will not work well efficiently.

Read and write Useful

Sun is an inexhaustible source of energy, which a person every year finds all new use. These are toys running on the energy of this star, charging on solar panels, allowing you to charge mobile devices where there is no possibility of connecting to the power grid, backpacks - a permanent attribute of people who prefer active rest, caps, straps, fountains, etc. All of them accumulating solar Energy, designed to serve people. You feel comfortable with them everywhere.

The worst disaster is to go somewhere in the heat by car. But, the output is found - this is a fan on the solar battery. He got rid of the need to connect bulky fans to the cigarette lighter, because it works autonomously using solar energy. Attaching the compact fan to the car's side glass, the salon will be filled with the long-awaited cool, leaving the cigarette lighter for connecting the video recorder or charging the mobile phone.

The technology of the work of this gadget is absolutely harmless and environmentally friendly. The scheme of work to banal is simple: sunlight, getting on the photocells, produces energy that makes the fan turning.

The most interesting thing is that the free source of energy for these fans cannot be spoiled.

Solar panels are connected to a low-voltage fan, which cool air flow passes through small intricate holes, output from the car (through a fitted window) hot air.

You can attach it anywhere in the side glass, adjusting it so that it blows on the rear or front seats.

From mechanical impacts and weather surprises, it is reliably protected by car glass. Its sizes and weight is small, and the price will not hit the family budget very much.

You can install it on any car and go to a hot day enjoying cool, and even saving a car battery, because, unlike the same air conditioner, it does not need the battery. In addition to the fact that the fan will cool the salon, it will remove unpleasant odors from it.

It is clear that by setting such a gadget, it is impossible to count on the temperature that the air conditioner provides for lowering the temperature of the cooling fluid under high pressure, due to which the cold air is supplied with a powerful fan in the cabin, but it does not have to ride in a fan with a fan. The disadvantage of fans running from sunlight is that in cloudy weather they cannot perform their functions as when they are installed on toned glass. But, manufacturers are already working in this direction: solar fans appeared with the possibility of connecting to the twelve voltage outlet of the vehicle, i.e. With a lack of solar energy, the fan to get started, can get a small amount of energy from the battery.

Characteristics Auto Cooler

For Auto Cooler fan, the numbers will respectively, will be: 15x11x7cm, 380 grams and 110 UAH. The size of the solar panel is 5.5 x 5.5 cm, the length of the rubber tube is about 95 cm. The housing is made of high-quality black plastic.

Sunny fans for a car, called sometimes solar, are able to reduce air in the cabin to a temperature that is normally perceived by a person.

Benefits

In addition to the possibility of gaining welcome coolness, the solar fan will retain the surface of the machine open to the sun, primarily the dashboard, from the appearance of cracks, which inevitably appear if the car has been durable under the scorching rays of the sun. As already mentioned, thanks to it, the car is cooled clean from an ecological point of view. In addition, it reduces the load on the air conditioner, dischargeting the battery. Well, for whom while the air conditioner remains a unrealized dream - such a fan is not at all. After all, those who drive on the machines of an old sample know not at the time that on hot days the salon turns a real sauna. Install the fan is simple, it is safe for others, universal, when parking can work briefly and for a long time.

Scope of autonomous solar fans

Despite the fact that while the fans on solar batteries have not yet become widespread, it is difficult to overestimate them. But, help fans can not only motorists. With their help, for example, you can cool the whole home. After all, his roof begins to heat up with the first rays of the sun, the gradual air is becoming increasingly hot, since the tile and bitumen perfectly attract heat and retain it. Due to the lack of circulation, warm air does not rise up. Therefore, the house begins to heat up. And no thermal insulation saves from the heat. It is not too effective and air conditioning, which removes heat from the room, but is not able to cope with a huge amount of it accumulating in the attic. In addition, he is quite expensive.

The only way to stop the influx of heat from the attic is to install the exhaust fan into the ventilation hole on the roof crest, which will provide air circulation. A fan will be more efficient on photocells, which will provide ventilation when it is necessary. In the morning, for example, not yet the roof is not heated, there is no need for ventilation. As heated, the solar fan rotates faster, again banking turns in the evening.

The fans are also available on solar panels, designed to ventilating galoons, holds, galluns. They do not require an additional power source, easily mounted in the porthole, cutting and deck. Of the most common - fan-fungus - models 30002 and 30003, characterized by the presence or absence of a protective screen. In the model 30003 it is present, so the device body is slightly higher.

It is necessary that dampness does not accumulate in the cabin, the air was not stood, and there was additional ventilation on a hot day.

The device is simple: The housing is made of stainless steel, inside a solar panel that feeds a small fan is installed. A fully autonomous fan works when there is a light, and when it is not - he stops working.

Many enjoy on hot days a mini fan attached to the cap using a special clip. This device also works on solar panels because it is autonomously. This wonderful accessory is appreciated when the temperature rises above thirty degrees, and a pleasant coolness comes from it. Its size is only 48x58 mm, the diameter of the fan is 73 mm, so it will be convenient and in sports, and fishing, and while traveling, and just for those who daily have a lot to move around the city.

Price automotive fan on the solar panel

Usually the cost of fans for a car that work on solar energy does not go beyond twenty-forty dollars . You can Kunt this desired device in any specialized store, or order its delivery in the store online.