The roof of a building is an important and responsible structural element that performs several functions at the same time. The main task is to protect walls and ceilings from the ingress of rain or melt water, which destroys the materials of the walls and the entire structure as a whole. Additional functions are the conservation of thermal energy, ensuring the operation of various life support systems at home, protection from wind, dust and other atmospheric and climatic manifestations. The roof structure is complex, the roof covering, which takes on all the main tasks of sealing and cutting off from low temperatures, needs a reliable and durable carrier system.

Gable roof and its features

The roof is one or more planes covered with a roof and designed to cut off external weather or atmospheric manifestations. Each plane is called a pitch, so a gable roof, by definition, has two protective planes. They can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, have the same or different angles. The configuration is determined by the architect's intention, the climate in the region, the presence of strong winds, etc. The most common are symmetrical gable structures, as they create a uniform load on the walls and foundation.

Slope angle

Roof planes must necessarily have a slope that ensures the flow of snow or water. The angle value is a design indicator, it cannot be chosen arbitrarily. Factors affecting the choice of slope:

1. The amount of snow falling in winter, typical for a given region.
2. The number of rains, their strength and duration.
3. Prevailing winds, their strength and duration, the possibility of squally gusts or hurricane values.

The meaning of calculating the angle of inclination of the slopes is to determine the optimal position of the planes, which ensures the timely melting of snow, the runoff of rainwater and, at the same time, does not create excessive resistance to wind currents. Loads from snow in winter amount to tons, and gusts of wind create a significant impact on the supporting structures of the house and the foundation. We have to look for a "golden mean" that allows you to get a sufficient slope with low wind resistance. In some regions with certain prevailing winds and high rainfall, an asymmetric roof shape, sloping on the windward side and steep on the leeward slope, becomes the best choice. To achieve such a shape, it is necessary to create two planes of different areas with a fracture line located outside the axis of symmetry of the building. When creating a house project, it is imperative to take into account the prevailing wind direction so that the load falls on the slopes of the roof and creates a minimum stress on the supporting structures.

What is a truss system

Gable roofs usually have vertical continuations of the walls from the end part - gables. Small buildings may not have a truss system at all, when the roof is laid on longitudinal strips laid on the slopes of opposite gables. For larger buildings, it is necessary to have a strong support. This is how the assembly of the gable roof truss system looks like with your own hands:

Roofing is able to ensure the tightness of the outer protective layer, not letting in moisture or wind. At the same time, the roof has no bearing capacity, it needs a well-organized support system. As such, rafters perform several tasks:

• create a reference plane for the roof, form a frame;
• form the configuration of the roof, create the required number of planes - slopes;
• provide the necessary rigidity and strength;
• connect the roof to the supporting structures of the building.

The functions performed put forward a lot of requirements for the system, the main of which are strength and the ability to maintain shape despite a long service life and tolerated loads. Here is an example of the simplest way to calculate the strength of each individual rafter:

Externally, the gable roof rafters look like two rows of sloping slats, connecting at the top. To ensure the strength and rigidity of the structure, there are various elements that need to be considered in more detail.

Elements of the truss system

Rafter construction is one of the most complex of all building systems. It consists of:

1. Mauerlat. A strapping belt made of timber 100 × 150 or 150 × 150 mm, laid along the perimeter of the walls in the upper end part. It serves as the basis for the rafters, connects the roof to the walls.
2. Sill. It is laid along the longitudinal axis of the building, provides support for vertical supporting elements. It is used only on buildings with an internal middle load-bearing wall.
3. Sprengel. Reinforces Mauerlat corner joints. It is a kind of strut laid horizontally and providing a diagonal ligament.
4. Puff. Connects the opposite bars of the Mauerlat, compensating for the bursting load from the inclined elements.
5. Rack (grandmother). A vertical piece that supports a skate.
6. Skate (run). A horizontal bar (or board) that forms the upper edge of the roof, connecting inclined planes - slopes.
7. Rafters (rafter legs). Inclined planks forming the planes of the slopes. With their lower ends they rest on the Mauerlat beam, with their upper ends on the run.
8. Struts. Inclined elements that serve as additional supports for the rafters at the points of greatest load. Installed perpendicular (or at a slight angle) to the rafters.

Important! The above list is not exhaustive, there are many more different elements of truss systems, but they are usually not used on gable roofs.

What are rafters made of

The material for the manufacture of rafters is traditionally wood - timber and edged boards. The advantages of wooden parts of the truss system:

1. Relatively light weight, eliminating high loads on the supporting structures of the house.
2. Availability, prevalence of material.
3. Wood is easily processed, cut, connected.
4. High maintainability of the material. Any element can be replaced or put in order during operation.
5. Durability, reliability of a design.

There are also disadvantages:

1. Wood is susceptible to decay, mold or fungus.
2. High susceptibility to water, the ability to absorb and release moisture.
3. Swelling, wood changes linear dimensions.
4. Wood is flammable.
5. Installation of rafters requires the use of material with high requirements for moisture and quality.

Recently, an alternative type of rafters has appeared - metal. They are devoid of most of the shortcomings of wooden parts, are not afraid of water, are strong and durable. The disadvantages include only the possibility of corrosion (although the metal has a protective coating), relatively high weight and increased complexity of the connection compared to wood. In addition, metal rafters are much more expensive, which limits their use in private housing construction. The main consumers of such parts are the builders of large facilities that need a strong roof of large dimensions. The loads experienced by the truss system in such conditions are very high and require the use of reinforced parts.

The process of installing a metal truss system is nothing more difficult than the process of assembling a wooden structure. You can verify this for yourself:

There are combined truss systems that use both metal and wooden elements. This option allows you to slightly reduce the weight of the structure, it is more economical and easier to install. The only crucial point is the need to waterproof the joints of metal and wooden parts, since the condensate that forms on the metal can get on the wood, cause rotting and failure.

Types of truss systems

There are two options for the design of truss systems:

• with hanging rafters;
• layered truss system.

The fundamental difference between these options is the fulcrum of the rafter legs. The first option involves attaching the base of the rafters to the Mauerlat and connecting them at the top point when the run (ridge) rests on them. The second option provides a more durable run with load-bearing functions, and the rafters are fully fixed to the Mauerlat and to the ridge beam.

Both options are actively used. In practice, they differ little from each other, since the features of the implementation of one type or another directly depend on the size of the building and the design of the load-bearing walls. The construction of medium-sized houses forces the use of structures that are more similar to the layered type, which provides greater strength and rigidity of the system. Let's consider both options in more detail:

Hanging rafter system

The traditional option for using hanging rafters is small houses, with a maximum distance between supports of up to 6 m. This is due to the appearance of an additional load - in addition to the weight of the roof and exposure to atmospheric factors, the rafters receive self-supporting properties. With an increase in the size of the house, the load becomes excessive and requires reinforcement of the structure.

A feature of hanging truss systems is the bursting force applied to the Mauerlat. To compensate for this pressure and protect the walls from deformation and subsequent destruction, puffs located at the bottom of the rafter legs are necessarily used. During construction, they often resort to the manufacture of so-called. truss trusses having the shape of an isosceles triangle. They are made on the ground or assembled directly on the top of the house and installed on the roof Mauerlat as a finished structure. This method somewhat speeds up the process of creating a roof, since elements of the same type are used, which allows you to repeat the same operations several times and get the right number of elements.

Layered truss system

The construction of houses of medium and large sizes requires the creation of a strong and rigid truss system. The weight of the roof, snow and wind loads force the use of a layered type of system. It differs, first of all, in the installation technique. First, supporting elements are installed - Mauerlat, bed, racks and run. They have a high bearing capacity and are designed to take significant loads, so they are made of timber. Rafter legs are installed based on the Mauerlat from below and on the run in the upper part, with a large length they are reinforced with struts.

Experts note the great reliability of the layered truss system. When assembling, there are no ready-made parts of the structure, so all work is carried out directly on top of the building. There is no need to lift heavy finished elements, only material is fed up. Each bar is installed separately, which ensures the accuracy and tightness of the connection, avoiding poor-quality installation or errors. In comparison with structures with hanging rafters, layered truss systems significantly benefit in strength and allow you to get a better and more durable supporting structure. In regions with high rainfall, snowy winters, strong gusty winds, a layered truss system for a gable roof is much preferable and more reliable.

How to choose the optimal design of gable roof rafters

The main selection criterion is the size and purpose of the building. Small houses that do not have a large area of ​​​​roofing can do with lighter support structures. Medium-sized buildings, large buildings must have a strong and powerful truss system that can withstand the pressure of snow, wind, and withstand the weight of the roof. In order to decide how to make a roof correctly, it is necessary to find out the climatic features in the region, the amount of precipitation, the possibility and frequency of strong winds, heavy snowfalls, etc. These data are included in the calculation, they are available in the tables of SNiP or in reference literature.

At the same time, one should not be too zealous and build an overly powerful truss system for a small house. It must be remembered that power is an additional material, and therefore an increase in the weight of the structure. The optimal choice will allow you to get a fairly strong and lightweight system that does not overload the foundation and walls, but fully provides protection from external atmospheric manifestations.

Installation of a gable roof truss system

Consider how to properly install the rafters with your own hands on a gable roof. The task is difficult, but quite solvable. The main condition will be the possession of the necessary knowledge and accuracy, thoroughness in performing all the necessary operations. A simpler option is a system with hanging rafters, but it is more correct to consider complex structures, since layered rafters on a gable roof are more reliable, and the work technique is almost the same.

Preparatory operations

First of all, you need to make a careful calculation of the system. For an unprepared person, such a task will certainly be overwhelming, but the solution may be to use an online calculator, of which there are many on the Internet. It is easy to use them - you need to substitute your own data (roof dimensions, other values) into the windows of the program and get ready-made parameters for the truss system. For more accurate values, you can repeat the calculation on another calculator.

The second step will be the acquisition of material. Consider a more complex case - making a wooden truss system with your own hands. For it, you will need a wooden beam measuring 100 × 150 or 150 × 150 mm, as well as an edged board 50 mm thick. On the quality of the material should pay close attention. Wood should not have defects:

• rotten areas;
• traces of insect activity;
• cracks;
• the number of knots should be limited, you should not choose material with dead (dropped out) knots;
• wood moisture should be in the range of 18-22%.

The selected and purchased material must be folded in the area under a canopy. It is impossible to tightly lay boards or timber on top of each other, it is necessary to use gaskets for free air movement. An example of proper storage of lumber:

Important! Of great importance is the presence of resin in wood. If a tapping (resin collection) was performed on the site, then the material becomes lighter and dries faster. At the same time, the risk of damage by a fungus, rotting or absorption of atmospheric moisture increases.

In any case, the purchased material must be kept for some time (at least a couple of weeks) on the site in order to gain atmospheric humidity characteristic of this region. If you start construction immediately, there is a risk of distortion of the structure, the occurrence of unnecessary stresses.

The next and final step of the preparatory operations must necessarily be the bactericidal treatment of purchased wooden materials:

Important! If you want the roof to serve you for at least 50 years without a single repair, you need to treat the wood with an antiseptic. This simple operation will avoid damage to the lumber by bark beetles, and will also prevent the material from rotting.

Do-it-yourself installation of gable roof rafters

Consider how a do-it-yourself gable roof truss system is made. The work is carried out in stages, in strict order. Since the installation of a structure with hanging rafters is somewhat simpler, consider a more labor-intensive option - installing a layered timber truss system for a gable roof.

The first step in installing rafters for a gable roof with your own hands is to prepare the walls of the building without a Mauerlat. An example is shown in the photo:

The mounting surface of the walls is leveled with a small layer of mortar. After the solution is completely dry, bituminous waterproofing is applied on top of it, or one layer (strip) of roofing material is laid. Next, a board is laid on top of the "sandwich".

The second step is the installation of the Mauerlat. How to do this is shown in detail in the photo below:

The beam piping is installed on a waterproofed base formed by the inner part of the end of the walls. A brick or block ledge is usually installed along the outer edge, providing protection against water ingress from outside. Sometimes Mauerlat is made from edged boards, which is justified given the small size of the building and roof. For insulation, a double layer of roofing material is used, with an intermediate application of heated bitumen. The connection of the beam both in the longitudinal and in the transverse direction is made in half a tree. Studs are used to strengthen the strapping. Before finally putting the beam in place, holes are made at the end of the walls for deepening the ends of the studs or dowels, installing anchor bolts.

Then the bed is installed. Installation is carried out in a similar way, on a waterproofed base. The connection with the Mauerlat is made in half a tree, reinforced with metal staples or nails.

Racks are installed. They are mounted on a bed, additionally reinforced with struts or struts. A run is attached to the top of the racks.

Installation of rafter legs begins. They are attached to the Mauerlat and run with nails. To illustrate, here are a few examples:

There are also metal fasteners for gable roof rafters, which provide high-quality connection of parts. It must be remembered that between wood and metal there must be a gasket made of roofing material or glassine. The installation step of the rafter legs is determined by calculations made in advance. The durability and reliability of the roof depends on the accuracy of observing the dimensions. Here is an example of assembling truss trusses on nail plates:

At the end of the installation of the gable roof truss system, the crate is installed.

There are two types - the crate itself and the counter-crate. The first type is used in the absence of insulation, and if it is planned to be installed, then both layers are mounted. In such cases, the counter-lattice provides the necessary ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation and at the same time serves as a support for the roofing material. The crate performs the function of supporting the insulation and provides the necessary clearance between the rafters and the counter-crate.

In parallel with the crate, a roof overhang is made. It provides protection of the ends of the walls from water. It is impossible to form an overhang immediately during the installation of the rafter legs, therefore, work is carried out at the final stage. To form an overhang, an edged inch board is used, from which a continuation of the rafter line is made, taking into account the thickness of the crate, extending beyond the perimeter of the walls by the required amount.

Do-it-yourself installation of gable roof rafters allows you to significantly save money, complete all the work at a convenient time for yourself and gain valuable experience in performing such work. The main condition for obtaining a high-quality result will be accuracy, thoroughness in the implementation of all actions, preliminary familiarization with the rules and features of the installation of a particular element.

Video instructions

The roof is a complex and important architectural element of any building. Its construction should be treated with special attention, it must be remembered that the installation of a truss system requires considerable experience in performing such work and a special tool. You should not take on the creation of a roof for those who hold a carpentry and measuring tool in their hands for the first time - the results of the activity can be very negative.

There are two types of roofs depending on the number and placement of rafter support points, but each developer can, at his own discretion, slightly change the specific design of the truss system. This takes into account the operating conditions of the building, the purpose of the attic, the climatic zone of location, the technical parameters of lumber and roofing. Of course, the type of truss system is influenced by the personal experience and preferences of developers.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of rafters, you should decide on their type, method of attachment and linear dimensions. Only in this case, you can be sure of the strength and safety of the structure.

How do various factors affect the parameters of the rafters?

physical factor	Brief description of the influence on the parameters of the rafters
	Rafters must withstand snow and wind loads. During the calculations, it is necessary to take the actual maximum values ​​​​of snow cover from the tables of building codes and rules, take into account the strength and rose of the winds. The data allows you to find out the total load on the roof slope, depending on its area and angle of inclination. Further, it is already possible to determine the dimensions of the rafters, their number and step. In this case, a safety factor is necessarily laid down. The fact is that lumber does not have stable and identical strength values, too many unforeseen factors affect these indicators. For most cases, 50 × 150 mm or 50 × 200 mm boards are used for the manufacture of rafter legs.
	Gable roofs can be layered and hanging. For hanging roofs, you need to make rafters from more durable boards. This takes into account the method of fixing the elements to the Mauerlat. If a cut is made, then the width of the boards should increase by the size of the cut. The fact is that the cut in this place automatically reduces the width of the material that receives the load. If a cross cut 60 mm long is made on a board with a thickness of 200 mm, then only the remaining width of 140 mm is taken into account. Accordingly, if rafters from 200 mm boards are selected when calculating loads, but unforeseen cuts of 60 mm are made during fastening, then the width of the blanks for rafters increases to 260 mm. This remark is made for those who like to abuse various notches and cuts for the thrust areas of the ends of the rafters. Currently, there are many special devices that allow you to firmly fix the rafter in the desired position without sawing.
	For residential buildings, rafters must have a safety margin of at least 1.4 of the calculated values. For non-residential structures, the coefficient is reduced to 1.2. Conclusion - the dimensions of the rafters on the houses are larger than on garages and other outbuildings.
	Residential attics (mansards) must have an insulated roof. The width of the rafters must correspond to the thickness of the insulation layer. At the same time, it is necessary to adjust the step between the rafter legs, depending on the standard width of the insulation. If in this climatic zone the optimal thickness of the roof insulation is 200 mm, then it is recommended to choose the same width for rafters. Various extensions of narrow rafter legs during roof insulation are not considered the right solution.

This knowledge will help you make the right decisions both during the manufacture of rafters and during their fixation directly in place. Mistakes in the construction of the truss system are too expensive, you should not show excessive self-confidence.

What influences the choicesizes andwaysmountsrafter

A very important point. The task of any fixation is to ensure the stability of the connection node, while it can be fixed or have one or more degrees of freedom. This cannot be achieved without knowledge of the loads affecting the rafter legs. Loads can be permanent and temporary, dynamic and static, unidirectional and multidirectional.

1. Constant vertical forces. Arise due to the impact of roofing and roof insulation materials. Due to the fact that the rafter legs are located at an angle to the vertical force, they are subject to bending and bursting loads. The magnitude of the forces is determined after the construction of the diagram, on the basis of specific bending and bursting forces, the thickness and width of the boards for the rafters are selected. Fasteners must prevent the spreading of the truss system.
2. Variable vertical forces. Appear in winter, the value depends on the height of the snow cover.
3. Lifting wind forces. As a result of gusts of wind, lifting forces act on the roof. They do not affect the dimensions of the rafter legs, efforts are taken into account only when choosing the type of fixation, it must provide for and hold such loads.
4. Lateral efforts. The value depends on the windage of the roof. As a result of gusts of wind, lateral forces act on the truss system. They increase bending and tearing loads. This feature must also be taken into account during the manufacture and installation of rafter legs.

There are options for rigid fastenings of truss trusses; for this, metal plates, corners, self-tapping screws and nails are used.

Sometimes it is required to use floating rafter connections to compensate for changes in the size of wooden houses. For floating connections, special fasteners and bolts are used. The second allows the rafter legs at the top to turn a little.

Another example of a free rafter connection is a sliding one. It is used on wooden log cabins and makes it possible to compensate for the natural shrinkage of the house.

What elements are used to increase the stability and bearing capacity of the rafters

As a result of the correct choice of the truss system and methods of fixing its elements, the structure must be stable, compensate for natural fluctuations in linear parameters and withstand various loads that occur during operation. To fulfill the conditions during the fixation of the rafters, additional fixation elements can be used.

Runs

Most often they are mounted in the ridge part of the system, the upper ends of the rafter legs rest on them. To increase stability, cuts may be provided. The top connection is rigid or floating on bolts. On large roofs, girders can be installed in the middle of the rafter legs or in other places with critical loads.

vertikaflax racks

They are installed to strengthen the rafters; due to the use of racks, elements can be made from thinner lumber. Vertical racks with their upper end abut against the rafters, and with their lower end against the bed or ceiling beams.

cornerOpores

Retain bending and expansion forces, universal use. Corner stops can be placed in any places of the rafter leg that cause concerns about strength. Due to such stops, the resistance of the rafters to bending and tearing forces is significantly increased.

Puffs(crossbars)

Purpose - to keep the rafter legs from sprawling, they are used on hanging rafter systems. Most often they are placed in the upper part of the truss; boards with a thickness of about 20–25 mm can be used for manufacturing. The fact is that they work in tension, lumber holds such efforts well. Boards do not work well in compression, quickly bend and lose their original strength indicators.

Knuckleadki

They are used in the upper ridge part of the rafters, due to the use of puffs, the strength of the knot connection increases. Puffs can be made of wood, plywood, OSB or metal.

Bosses(stops)

They have many specific names. They are ordinary pieces of boards 30–40 cm long and 40–50 mm thick, fixed at the bottom of the rafters. They rest against the Mauerlat and do not allow the structure to slip. The use of bosses allows you to perform a rigid connection of elements without sawing the rafters. We talked about the problems that arise in connection with sawing in this article above.

Prices for various types of timber

Options for connecting the ridge knot of the rafter legs

The horse is one of the main and most loaded elements of the truss system. The node has several connection options, you should choose a specific one depending on the general parameters of the roof.

With a large length of slopes, it is better not to use a ridge beam, but instead to put two parallel runs and puff crossbars. This design is easier to do, it is more stable and safe.

For a hanging roof, you should choose the most reliable ways to connect the rafter legs, these systems have a minimum number of additional stops.

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for rafters

step by stepWithTruction of the mouthanew rafters

For rafter legs, coniferous boards 50 × 200 mm, first-class lumber, are used. The boards must not have traces of rot or fungus, significant malformations and deep cracks. It is strictly forbidden to use low-quality lumber for the manufacture of the truss system.

To increase the protection of roof elements from decay, it is recommended to use fire protection.

Rafter blanks should be impregnated at least twice, while the material must be dry and clean. Processing is done on a flat area in dry and clear weather.

It can be impregnated with a roller, brush or air gun. It is not recommended to use household hand sprayers - too long and hard. Boards can be lifted up after complete drying of the impregnation.

Our gable roof has a ridge run, vertical supports rest against a bed located on a load-bearing wall in the middle of the building.

Practical advice. If the house is quite high and the boards are heavy, then it is recommended to make an elementary device to protect window openings from damage. To do this, two boards are knocked down in the form of a square, the length and width are selected taking into account the parameters of the opening. The device is installed on the windowsill, and the rafter boards do not damage the foam blocks during lifting.

Prices for fire-retardant impregnations

Preparatory operations

The manufacture of rafters begins with preparatory operations.

Step 1. Raise the rafter boards into the attic. For convenience, place them evenly along the length of the building, put one end on the Mauerlat, and the other on the run bed. First you need to install the extreme rafters on both sides of the roof of the house, pull a thread between them and install and align all the remaining ones along it.

Step 2 Check again the position of the ridge run. It should be located exactly in the middle of the roof. Its displacement by 1–2 centimeters will not affect the strength of the roof as a whole, but it will somewhat complicate the manufacture of rafters and the laying of roofing materials. In addition, an experienced builder may notice a mismatch in the size of the slopes and, accordingly, the asymmetry of the roof. It is recommended to achieve a situation so that the ridge run is located along the line of symmetry, if this is not associated with great difficulties. The final decision is made by the foreman on site and depends on the magnitude of the offset and the amount of work to correct the error.

How to straighten a run?

1. Attach a batten board to the Mauerlat, it is lighter, easier to lift and fix. The second end should lie on the run. The board is nailed to the Mauerlat with an ordinary smooth nail or screwed with a self-tapping screw.
2. Climb to the top of the run and use a tape measure to check the distance from the edge of the run to the Mauerlats installed on opposite walls. Work very carefully, it is advisable to use insurance. Unfortunately, in practice, few people follow the safety rules, but in vain. Falls from height can cause very serious injury.
3. Align the purlin to the center and secure the board. To increase rigidity, fix the same board on the other side of the run.

Now everything is ready, you can proceed to the manufacture and installation of rafters.

Installationrafter legs

If you work alone, then you need to fasten a piece of rail to the run at the place where the first rafter is fixed. A rafter board will be temporarily fixed to it to prevent it from slipping down.

And at this time, you can perform work on the manufacture and preparation for connecting the upper part of the rafters.

Step 1. Lift and install the rafter board in place, clamp it to the previously fixed rail with a clamp.

Step 2 Draw lines to cut out the thrust pad. This is done in two stages. First, draw a horizontal line. To do this, press the rail, square or other even object firmly against the horizontal surface of the run.

Second, draw a vertical line. Now the ruler or square should be pressed against the side surface of the run.

Important. The width of the ruler should be no more than 2-3 cm, it is not necessary to make deep cuts and significantly reduce the width of the rafter leg, it loses its maximum design strength.

Make the same markup at the bottom of the rafter. Only now the ruler needs to be pressed against the Mauerlat surfaces.

Step 3 Remove the board and carefully cut out the seats. You can work with a hacksaw or an electric circular hand saw.

Practical advice. If the cuts are made with an electric circular saw, then it is better to cut in two steps. First cut to the mark, then turn the board over and cut again to the mark. Knock out the cut piece with a hammer, and remove the remaining protrusion with a chisel or chisel. No need to go behind the line with a saw and try to cut off the ledge in one go. This method increases the cut by 3–5 cm, depending on the diameter of the disk, which significantly reduces the bearing performance of the rafter.

Step 4 Install the prepared rafter in place and check the correctness of its manufacture. Do the same operations with the second leg of the farm.

Step 5 Place the rafters with an emphasis on the Mauerlat and the run, pull them together with a clamp in the upper part. Find the middle of the run and transfer the line to the rafters, use a level or building square (only if the plane of the run is strictly horizontal).

Step 6 Saw through two rafters at the same time along a vertical line. The boards must be tightly clamped with a clamp. Pay maximum attention, the saw blade should be perpendicular to the plane of the rafters. If you cut it obliquely, then the ridge joint will not fit tightly, and this reduces the stability of the truss system and is considered an obvious construction defect.

Step 7 Remove the clamps, connect both elements in the ridge, check the correct position.

With a lack of practical experience in performing such work, the first leg may have a gap in the ridge part, if it is within 1–2 mm, then there is nothing to worry about. If it is more than 4 millimeters, then you need to correct the element. See which planes of the thrust pads do not allow the upper cut to fit tightly. Approximately indicate the amount of additional cut. Remove the rafter and remove the interfering protrusions. Check the connection again, if there are gaps, repeat the operation. As practice shows, experience appears on the second or third rafter and no further corrections need to be made.

Step 8 Secure the rafter legs firmly in place. For this, it is recommended to use metal plates and corners, it is simple and easy to work with them, the strength fully meets the requirements for the truss system.

For each pair of rafters, you will need one large reshaped plate to connect the ridge knot, two 50x50mm corners for fixing to the run and two 60x80mm corners for screwing to the Mauerlat. The thickness of the metal is at least two millimeters.

In the same way, install the extreme rafters on the other side of the house, pull the threads between them. One at the top and bottom and one in the middle. So that they do not interfere during the manufacture of rafters, make a gap between the thread and the plane of about one centimeter.

Real professionals never make one rafter in the attic of a house. Such an algorithm of work significantly increases the construction time, complicates the process itself and makes it unsafe. It is very dangerous to work with electric tools on unsuitable sites, injuries from them are severe, often causing disability.

If the house is delivered with high quality with exact observance of dimensions and rules, then the rafter legs are made according to one template on the ground. Finished elements are assembled on the roof. This technology increases labor productivity by 3-5 times, at the same time the quality of the rafter system is improved, it is more reliable and durable. Of course, the wages of builders also increase proportionally. They work from the development and receive money not for the time spent in the attic, but for the assembled roof.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Video - Manufacturing and installation of rafters on a gable roof

Roof installation is a complex multi-stage process. In order to independently assemble and install the truss system, it is necessary to carefully study the methods of connecting the elements, calculate the length of the rafters and the slope angle, and select the appropriate materials. If you do not have the necessary experience, you should not take on complex designs. The best option for a small residential building is a do-it-yourself gable roof.

A standard roof of this type consists of the following elements:

Mauerlat is a beam laid on top of the walls along the perimeter of the building. It is fixed with threaded steel rods immured into the wall or anchor bolts. The beam must be made of coniferous wood and have a square section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Mauerlat takes on the load from the rafters and transfers it to the outer walls.

rafter legs- these are long boards with a section of 50x150 mm or 100x150 mm. They are attached to each other at an angle and give the roof a triangular shape. The design of their two rafter legs is called a truss. The number of farms depends on the length of the house and the type of roofing. The minimum distance between them is 60 cm, the maximum is 120 cm. When calculating the pitch of the rafter legs, one should take into account not only the weight of the coating, but also the wind load, as well as the amount of snow in the winter.

It is located at the highest point of the roof and most often represents a longitudinal beam connecting both slopes. From below, the timber is supported by vertical racks, and the ends of the rafters are attached to the sides. Sometimes the ridge consists of two boards, which are nailed to the top of the rafters on both sides and connected at a certain angle.

Racks - vertical bars with a section of 100x100 mm, located inside each farm and serving to transfer the load from the ridge run to the load-bearing walls inside the house.

The struts are made from timber scraps and set at an angle between the uprights and the rafters. The side faces of the truss are strengthened with struts, the bearing capacity of the structure is increased.

Puff - a beam connecting the lower parts of the rafters, the base of the truss triangle. Together with struts, such a beam serves to strengthen the truss, increases its resistance to loads.

Lying is a long bar with a section of 100x100 mm, laid along the central load-bearing wall, on which vertical racks rest. Lying is used when installing layered rafters, when the run between the outer walls is more than 10 m.

The crate is a board or timber stuffed on the rafters. The crate is solid and with gaps, depending on the type of roof. It is always attached perpendicular to the direction of the rafters, most often horizontally.

If there is no more than 10 m between the outer walls and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle, arrange hanging rafter system. With such a system, the upper ends of adjacent rafters are sawn at an angle and connected to each other with nails, excluding the installation of racks and ridge timber. The lower ends of the rafter legs rest on the outer walls. Due to the lack of racks, the attic space can be used to equip the attic. Very often, floor beams perform the function of puffs. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install the upper puff at a distance of 50 cm from the ridge.

In the presence of a central supporting wall, the arrangement is more justified layered truss system. A bed is laid on the wall, support posts are attached to it, and a ridge beam is nailed to the posts. This installation method is quite economical and easier to perform. If the ceilings in the interior are designed at different levels, the racks are replaced with a brick wall dividing the attic into two halves.

The installation process of the roof includes several stages: fastening the Mauerlat to the walls, assembling the truss trusses, installing the rafters on the floors, installing the ridge, fastening the batten. All wooden elements before assembly are carefully treated with any antiseptic composition and dried in the air.

For work you will need:

• timber 100x10 mm and 150x150 mm;
• boards 50x150 mm;
• boards 30 mm thick for lathing;
• ruberoid;
• metal studs;
• jigsaw and hacksaw;
• hammer;
• nails and screws;
• square and building level.

in wooden houses Mauerlat functions are performed by logs of the last row, which greatly simplifies the workflow. To install the rafters, it is enough to cut grooves of the appropriate size on the inside of the logs.

in brick houses or buildings from blocks, the installation of the Mauerlat is as follows:

Mauerlat bars should form a regular rectangle and be in the same horizontal plane. This will facilitate further installation of the roof and provide the structure with the necessary stability. In conclusion, markings are made on the bars for the rafters and grooves are cut along the thickness of the bar.

When choosing a hanging truss system, it is necessary to assemble the trusses on the ground, and then install them above the floors. First you need to draw up a drawing and calculate the length of the rafter legs and the angle of their connection. Typically, the roof slope is 35-40 degrees, but in open, heavily ventilated areas, it is reduced to 15-20 degrees. To find out at what angle to connect the rafters, you should multiply the angle of the roof by 2.

Knowing the length of the run between the outer walls and the angle of connection of the rafters, you can calculate the length of the rafter legs. Most often, it is 4-6 m, taking into account the cornice overhang 50-60 cm wide.

The upper ends of the rafters can be fastened in several ways: overlap, butt and "in the paw", that is, with cut grooves. For fixing use metal pads or bolts. Next, the lower and upper puffs are mounted, and then the finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the ceilings.

The extreme trusses are attached first: with the help of a plumb line, the rafters are set vertically, the length of the overhang is adjusted and attached to the Mauerlat with bolts or steel plates. So that during the installation process the farm does not move, it is strengthened with temporary jibs from a bar. After installing the extreme rafters, the rest are exposed, keeping the same distance between them. When all the trusses are fixed, they take a board with a section of 50x150 mm, the length of which is 20-30 cm longer than the length of the eaves, and nail it along the upper edge of the slope. Do the same on the other side of the roof.

The first option: on the rafter leg, at the place of contact with the Mauerlat, a rectangular groove is cut out 1/3 of the beam width. Stepping back from the top of the box 15 cm, a steel crutch is driven into the wall. The rafter is leveled, the grooves are aligned, then a wire clamp is thrown on top and the beam is pulled close to the wall. The ends of the wire are securely fixed on the crutch. The lower edges of the rafters are carefully cut with a circular saw, leaving an overhang of 50 cm.

The second option: the upper rows of walls are laid out with a stepped brick cornice, and the mauerlat is placed flush with the inner surface of the wall and a groove is cut in it for the rafter. The edge of the rafter leg is cut at the level of the upper corner of the eaves. This method is simpler than the others, but the overhang is too narrow.

The third option: ceiling beams are extended beyond the edge of the outer wall by 40-50 cm, and roof trusses are installed on the beams. The ends of the rafter legs are cut at an angle and rest against the beams, fixing with metal plates and bolts. This method allows you to slightly increase the width of the attic.

The device of layered rafters

1 shows the cutting of the struts of the rafters into a bed laid on intermediate supports, and in Fig. 2 - supporting the rafter leg on the Mauerlat

The procedure for installing a layered truss system:

When the main elements are fixed, the surface of the rafters is treated with flame retardants. Now you can start making the crate.

A beam of 50x50 mm is suitable for the crate, as well as boards with a thickness of 3-4 cm and a width of 12 cm or more. Waterproofing material is usually laid under the crate to protect the truss system from getting wet. The waterproofing film is laid in horizontal stripes from the eaves to the roof ridge. The material spreads with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joints are fastened with adhesive tape. The bottom edges of the film must completely cover the ends of the rafters.

It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the boards and the film, so first wooden slats 3-4 cm thick are stuffed onto the film, placing them along the rafters.

The next stage is the sheathing of the truss system with boards; they are stuffed perpendicular to the rails, starting from the roof eaves. The step of the lathing is affected not only by the type of roofing, but also by the angle of inclination of the slopes: the larger the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.

After the installation of the battens is completed, they begin to sheath the gables and overhangs. You can close the gables with boards, plastic panels, clapboard, waterproof plywood or corrugated board - it all depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences. Sheathing is attached to the side of the rafters, nails or self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. Overhangs are also hemmed with various materials - from wood to siding.

Video - Do-it-yourself gable roof

The roof of the house is one of the main components of the house. It is the upper structure of the building, without which it is difficult to imagine a comfortable stay. The main functions of the roof are protection from snow, rain and other precipitation, as well as keeping warm in the cold season and protecting against overheating in the summer months. In our years, there is a wide variety of roofs for every taste and budget. However, the most common and popular at any time are gable roofs, which are versatile, inexpensive and easy to install. We will talk about how to properly make a gable roof with our own hands in today's article.

The design of a gable roof is the most common in private construction. As the name of this type of roof implies, it is made in the form of two slopes or, more simply, in the form of a triangle. Such roofs are easy and quick to mount, they are quite durable and their appearance finds many fans, as it combines the look of a Russian hut and a modern building. With the necessary knowledge, you can do it yourself using the available tools.

The device of the truss system of a gable roof

The rafter system of a modern gable roof consists of many elements, each of which evenly redistributes the weight of the structure and correctly transfers it to the walls of the house. The figure below shows the construction of a gable roof of a house with its main nodes and elements of the truss system.

Let's analyze each of the elements shown in the diagram separately:

• The rafter leg is the main part in the design of the gable roof truss system, which is an inclined element laid through the entire roof. To create it, the most durable bars are selected, since the rafter leg, in addition to the weight of the roofing material and the batten, can bear the weight of precipitation in the form of snow;
• Mauerlat - the so-called "foundation" of the roof, which is the main support for the entire structure, which distributes the load on the walls. It is a bar or a thick board on which the rafter legs rest and which is a “gasket” between the wall and the roof;
• Puff (screed) - a spacer that lies at the base of the triangle, reinforcing strength. The puff performs a dual function, since the ceiling is mounted to its lower part;
• Runs - ridge ones are attached in the upper part, side ones in the center of the rafter legs. The task of the runs is to keep the rafter legs from falling and "folding";
• Rack - located in the central zone, directly under the ridge. Serves as a support, transfers the load to the tightening;
• Lying - an additional element on which the rack rests;
• Sheathing - boards that are mounted across the rafters. The crate is designed to lay roofing material on it (in the simplest case) and to provide additional rigidity to the entire truss system.

This roof scheme is universal for many buildings, but depending on the complexity of the structure, special elements can be added here to give stability and rigidity to the entire truss system.

The slope of the gable roof

Choosing an acceptable roof angle is a significant task, but for many builders it fades into the background, which is not true. The so-called gable structures with straight slopes are considered standard. The optimal angle of inclination of a gable roof is on average 30 ° -45 ° (the angle at the base of an isosceles triangle is taken as the basis).

The choice of the angle of inclination will determine how well the upper part of the house will withstand the following factors:

snow pressure;

the weight of an individual object on the roof, such as a person.

The first two points must be taken into account with particular care, since a miscalculation in the choice of roof slope can cost large financial and health losses in the event of a collapse.

Example: the larger the angle, the lower the load on the roof from precipitation, but the threat of wind damage increases due to the windage created (the roof can simply be blown off). The noise effect will also increase if metal is chosen as the roofing material.

• Roll materials: the number of layers is pre-calculated. The more of them, the lower you can make the roof. Double flooring - from 10-15°;
• Type-setting elements: these include tiles (including soft ones) and slate. The angle of inclination of the rafters is set from 20 °;
• Metal tile: adhere to a slope of 14 °;
• Decking: its sheets should be placed at an angle of 12 °;
• Ondulin: it is allowed to adhere to an indicator of 6 °.

Thus, when designing a roof and choosing the angle of inclination, it is important to know in advance what kind of roofing material you will cover it with. As you can see, the minimum angle of inclination of a gable roof can be 6 °.

Types of truss systems for gable roofs

Most truss systems for gable roofs are divided into two main types - hanging and layered. The first type is the most common. Let's take a closer look at both types.

Hanging rafter gable roof system

This type of roof structures is used exclusively when the walls of the house are at a distance of up to 10 m from each other and there are no supporting floors between them. Rafters (legs) are joined only with the side parts of the house in the form of a Mauerlat. The downside of a gable roof with hanging rafters is the possibility of damage due to bursting load, since stretch marks are not provided between the rafters in this case.

Sloping roof truss system

The difference between layered structures is the presence of an additional support in the form of a wall or other support. The layered truss system is installed with supports that are attached to the intermediate walls. This design allows you to close large spans without compromising the rigidity of the entire truss system.

Separately, it is worth talking about several more types of gable roofs. By design, a gable roof can be made in the following versions:

• symmetrical gable roof;
• asymmetric gable roof;
• double pitched roof.

The differences between these designs are clear from the name. Depending on the project of your house and design solutions, the roof can be asymmetric, that is, have different angles of inclination at the base. Such a roof is a little more difficult to install than a conventional symmetrical roof, which has an isosceles triangle at its base, but it will not be difficult for an experienced craftsman to build such a structure.

A gable sloping roof is also very common. The rafters of such a roof seem to be slightly broken off at the base. Such roofs practically do not retain precipitation and allow you to win in the attic space for.

Often, novice builders, before designing and calculating the purchase of material, have questions about how to find out the length of the gable roof rafters. To do this, it is important at the design stage to know what the width of the building will be in order to select standard-sized rafters so that they do not have to be spliced, sacrificing their bearing capacity. Along with this, you must not forget about the angle of the roof. All of these factors will eventually affect the length calculation.

So, to calculate the length of the rafters of such a roof, you need to divide the triangle formed by the rafter system into two right-angled triangles. Further, knowing the width of the building and the angle of the roof, you can determine the height of the gable roof ridge. Knowing the two legs of a right triangle and using the Pythagorean theorem, we can calculate the hypotenuse of each right triangle, which is the required length of our roof rafters.

As a result, to determine the final length, another 30-50 cm must be added to the obtained value to ensure roof overhangs.

All calculations made to determine the height of the ridge (it is also the height of the pediment) and the length of the rafters are clearly shown in the image:

From the foregoing, we can conclude that a gable roof is the cheapest and most versatile type of roof for a private house. There are examples when, with the help of improvised means, people erected a gable roof on their own alone. But still, we advise you to use the help of specialists in such matters, because a well-made roof over your head is comfort and coziness in the house.

Designing the construction of a gable roof of a house

The first and fundamental stage in the construction of a gable roof is its design. We have already said that the load perceived by the roof will depend on the choice of the angle of inclination of the roof, and, as a result, the choice of roofing material that can withstand precipitation and loads from these precipitations and winds.

At this stage, drawings of the design of the future roof are created and all necessary calculations are carried out. This is necessary, first of all, in order to have an idea about the general appearance of the roof and its dimensions, as well as to take into account all the expected maximum loads.

After designing, you will have the entire package of documents in your hands, which will indicate all the dimensions of the future roof, its area for the purchase of roofing materials, and the full range of lumber used in the construction. The presence of a list with the nomenclature of lumber will allow you not to spend extra money on its purchase, since lumber is the main expense item during the construction of the roof.

After all the design work is completed, they proceed directly to the construction work. Do-it-yourself work saves half the budget that could go to pay the builders. At the same time, it is important to remember that all norms and rules are observed so that the end result meets expectations.

Construction of a gable roof step by step

Mounting the Mauerlat of a gable roof

Mauerlat takes over the entire load from the roof and transfers it to the walls, therefore, a fairly thick and strong beam is chosen as a Mauerlat. The thickness is chosen based on the thickness of the wall on which it rests. As a rule, the thickness of the Mauerlat beam tends to be chosen equal to or close to the thickness of the wall.

It is necessary to lay the Mauerlat flush with the outer part of the wall, firmly connecting them together. To connect the Mauerlat with the wall, anchor bolts or wire are laid (poured into the armored belt) even at the stage of wall construction. If wire is used as a fastener, then after laying the timber, it is tightly tied around with this wire and remains firmly fixed in this form. In the event that anchor bolts were immured into the wall, through holes are pre-drilled in the Mauerlat, with which the beam is mounted on the bolts and tightened from above with nuts with wide washers.

It is also important not to forget to lay a layer of waterproofing material in the form of a gasket between the wall and the Mauerlat. As a waterproofing, as a rule, roofing felt or similar materials are used. More information about fixing the Mauerat is described in this video

After the base has been prepared, they begin to assemble the gable roof truss system. Installation of rafters can be done in several ways: install rafters immediately on the roof or perform some structural elements on the ground, and then lift them to the installation site using special equipment. Correctly setting the rafters on a gable roof with your own hands without the help of a partner is quite problematic, so it’s better to use help so as not to make a mistake and nullify all efforts.

To make it easier to fasten the bars, it is worth marking the attachment points on each wall and connecting the opposite walls with beams (beds), on which racks will be installed to support the rafters. A ridge beam is installed on the racks, which is a guide for installing the rafter system. In order to connect the rafters as accurately as possible, so that the entire skeleton of the rafters is the same, use templates. So you can avoid failures and distortions in the roof.

After installing the ridge beam, they proceed to the most critical part - the installation of rafters (already fastened together or separately). It is important to constantly monitor the level and evenness of the installation. The rafters are fastened together, as a rule, on nails or with the help of iron staples. Common schemes for placing rafters on a gable roof and attaching them to each other are shown in the figure below.

After completing the roof frame, it is required to install auxiliary fasteners to improve the rigidity of the roof. To do this, install struts and medium skates.

We invite you to watch a video that clearly shows the installation of rafters with your own hands for a gable roof.

The lathing of a gable roof in the simplest case is the installation of transverse boards on rafters for laying roofing material on it. But, as a rule, modern roofing is a more complex cake of various layers.

After installing the crate, the roof is covered with a layer of waterproofing, the layers of which are mounted overlapping each other, and the joints are fastened with adhesive tape.

The next step is to fix the counter-lattice - strips fixed at an angle of 90 degrees to the main crate. This is necessary to provide a ventilated gap in the roof pie to get rid of moisture.

At the final stage of the installation of a gable roof, the roofing is laid, the choice of which, as mentioned at the beginning of the article, depends on several factors, including the financial component

External work on the installation of the roof ends with the arrangement of gables, if they are not part of the walls. After that, they move on to interior finishing work and, if necessary. We will talk in detail about roof insulation in the following articles.

It is worth noting that building a gable roof with your own hands is not so difficult, the main thing is to make the calculations correctly and follow the instructions step by step so as not to miss important points during installation.

A brief video instruction on the installation of a gable roof is presented in the video:

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Step-by-step installation of a gable roof - a guide to the home master

Professionals consider the gable system to be the simplest and most affordable, this is partly true, but for a home master, self-assembly of a roof of any configuration can be a problem. Therefore, further we will step by step analyze all the stages of the construction of a gable structure, starting with professional terminology and ending with the arrangement of a roofing pie.

Basic concepts and subtleties

Before you go to the store for material and try to do something with your own hands, it would be useful to understand what exactly you want, because there are several types of gable systems. And to make an elementary project, you need to know the basic principles and terminology.

What and how is it called

• Mauerlat- this is a bar that serves as a support for the rafter legs and is mounted around the perimeter of the outer load-bearing wall. The minimum section of such a bar is 100x100 mm. It can be monolithic or type-setting, that is, it can consist of 2 bars of a smaller section;
• rafter leg- this is an inclined beam with its lower side resting on the Mauerlat, and the upper connection of such beams forms a ridge, in a gable system there are 2 of them. The minimum thickness of the rafter leg is 50 mm. The width of the beams can be from 150 mm and more;
• Farm- the connection of two rafter legs (triangle), called a farm. The number of trusses depends on the length of the structure, the minimum truss pitch is 600 mm, the maximum is 1200 mm. The choice of step depends on the weight of the roofing cake, as well as on the snow and wind load in the area;
• Skate- the upper line of connection of the rafter legs and two planes of the roof, it is also called the ridge run;
• Filly- overhangs from the edge of the rafter leg to the outer load-bearing wall. A frontal board is stuffed on the front side of the overhang, which often serves as a support for mounting roof drain gutters;

• Racks- vertical supports, which take on a significant part of the weight of the truss structure. In small houses, the rack is placed only in the center, and supports the skate. With a significant roof size, as well as in houses with a residential attic, intermediate racks are mounted;
• Struts- small beams that are mounted at an angle and provide additional stability to the roof trusses;
• puff- a horizontal beam that pulls together 2 adjacent rafter legs. It can also be called a scrum or crossbar;
• Sill- this is to some extent an analogue of the Mauerlat, only here the beam is mounted on top of an internal load-bearing wall or several internal walls;

• crate- boards stuffed from above, perpendicular to the rafters. The crate can be solid and with gaps, it all depends on the weight and structure of the roofing pie;
• Run- an analogue of a ridge beam, but ordinary girders are mounted along the entire plane of the roof, they strengthen the trusses and serve as additional support for the rafter legs.

Types of gable structures

Illustrations	Explanations
	Symmetric system.
	Asymmetric system. Asymmetry is good not only for its original appearance, it is easier to equip a living space under such a roof. But, at the same time, much more calculations will be required, because the loads on the base and the roofing pie vary greatly.
	Broken roof. Formally, there are already more than 2 slopes in such a roof, but the installation procedure for broken and classical structures is similar. Therefore, they are combined in one direction.

What is the difference between layered and hanging systems

If the distance between the outer walls does not exceed 10 m, and there is no capital wall inside the house, then hanging rafters are installed. They rest on the Mauerlat and are pulled together by ceiling beams below, plus, in some cases, additional transverse puffs are mounted.

Installation of layered rafters can only be carried out if there are capital walls inside the house. In this case, the size of the building does not matter much. The layered system is much more practical and durable, because the bulkhead takes on a significant part of the total load.

A few words about calculations

When calculating any roof, 3 main components are taken into account - these are constant, variable and special loads.

1. Permanent loads include, first of all, the weight of the roofing and the truss system itself. In unheated attics, this weight often does not exceed 30 kg per 1 m², and if you equip a full-fledged roofing pie with insulation, then here the weight can reach up to 50 kg;

1. Variables include snow and wind loads. For the calculation, you need the wind rose and the average rainfall for the region. SNiP 2.01.07-85 will help you here, according to it in Russia, the snow load ranges from 80 to 320 kg / m². Both snow and wind loads are multiplied by a factor depending on the angle of the roof, and this factor is constant;

If your gable roof has an angle of inclination equal to or greater than 60º, then the snow load can be ignored, snow is not retained on such a roof. But the wind pressure is much higher here.

1. Special stresses include natural disasters such as earthquakes and hurricanes. Fortunately, there are few such places in our country, so they are rarely taken into account in calculations. At the bottom of the video in this article, detailed instructions for calculating the roof are given.

Stages of installation of a gable roof

The entire installation can be divided into mounting the Mauerlat, then there is the laying of rafters, racks and struts, and everything ends with the arrangement of the roofing pie.

How the Mauerlat is mounted

Mounting the Mauerlat, first of all, depends on what material your house is built from. So if the house is brick or made of cinder block, then a couple of layers of roofing material are rolled over the wall and the Mauerlat beam is screwed on top with anchor bolts or any other studs.

With houses made of cellular concrete (foam or aerated concrete), everything is a little more complicated. Neither the anchor bolt nor the stud will hold in such a block, therefore, a reinforced reinforced concrete belt is poured along the entire perimeter of the wall, into which iron studs are initially embedded under the Mauerlat mount.

In wooden houses, the truss system is mounted without a Mauerlat at all, more precisely, the role of the Mauerlat is played by the upper beam.

Rafter legs in wooden houses are connected to the upper beam (Mauerlat) according to a sliding principle, that is, not rigidly. This installation allows the rafters to move when the house shrinks.

We mount a simple truss system

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Mauerlat. In this case, the Mauerlat was installed on a built-in threaded stud, the stud was locked from above through the washer. Plus, an anchor bolt was driven nearby for strength.
	Extreme farms. To keep the outer trusses in the right position, they were screwed in the center and additionally secured with struts and struts. These racks are needed only during the installation of the truss system, then they are dismantled.
	Connection of rafters with Mauerlat. Stage 1. The vertical racks are installed first on the Mauerlat. They are cut from the same beam as the rafter legs. The end posts are fixed with two corners, 8 screws each, and the middle ones are fixed in the same way, only with 1 corner.
	Stage 2. On the reverse side of the rafter leg, exactly the same stand with a corner is installed. The rafter leg itself is connected to the racks with long self-tapping screws and through studs with a diameter of 12 mm.
	Stage 3. On the extreme farms, in addition to mounting on the Mauerlat, intermediate racks are also installed (they are not subsequently removed).
	Stage 4. A triangle is rigidly attached between the two posts holding the rafter legs on the Mauerlat.
	Skate run. Stage 1. The ridge beam must pass exactly under the connection of all trusses. To fix this beam, 2 puffs were installed on the outer trusses, and the beam itself was screwed to the puffs with corners. Bars of this section are usually 6 m long, therefore, if necessary, they are increased. To make the connection strong, we applied the same bars on both sides and pulled everything together with 4 12 mm studs.
	Stage 2. For reliability, the connections of the rafter legs were tightened with metal plates for 6 studs 12 mm, 3 studs in each beam. If there are not enough such overlays with studs for each truss, then pull off at least the extreme ones, and fix the rest on both sides with plates on self-tapping screws.
	Puffs on extreme trusses. On the extreme trusses, the puffs are installed inside, between the rafter legs and are fixed on both sides with metal plates.
	Puffs on intermediate trusses. 2 puffs are placed on intermediate trusses, they are superimposed on both sides and pulled together with two studs (12 mm) and four self-tapping screws.
	Reference point. In order to set the intermediate trusses in the same plane, immediately after the installation of the extreme trusses, a cord is pulled between them and the remaining trusses are mounted along it.
	Cutout in rafters. In order for the rafter legs to rest more firmly on the Mauerlat, triangular cutouts are made in them. But such cutouts are made only in block houses, there are no cutouts in wooden houses, the rafters must slide there.
	Filly. From the edge of the rafter leg to the wall there should be at least 30 - 40 cm. In this case, 50 cm was made. A tolerance of 10 cm was left for insulation and wall cladding with siding.
	Rafter system - the result. We have a lightweight hanging type truss system. We did not install central racks, respectively, the attic can be made residential. The puffs on the middle farms are paired, and on the extreme ones they are single. At the top of the trusses there is a single ridge beam. Since the system is hanging, the rafter legs have a double reinforced fastening.

There is one more important point: in wooden houses, in addition to the sliding fastening of the rafter legs to the Mauerlat, it is desirable to make the ridge connection also movable. The easiest way is to fasten metal linings on both sides of the rafter leg and “sew” these linings with the central pin, as in the photo below.

How a roofing pie works

The scheme of the roofing pie on all pitched roofs is similar, but the installation technology and the sequence of actions may differ slightly. If there is enough money for a quick arrangement, then the pie is mounted from the bottom up and the entire roof is done in a maximum of a week. But if the house is being built gradually, then they act differently.

With limited financial resources, you can first equip the roof under a cold attic, and then (when money and time appear) insulate everything with your own hands.

To begin with, a vapor barrier is mounted on top of the truss system. The rolls roll out perpendicular to the rafters and cover each other from the bottom up. As the roll is rolled out, the membrane is nailed to the rafters with counter-battens (50x50 mm), and the main batten is stuffed over these bars.

After the first roll is rolled out and fixed, the next roll is rolled over it with an overlap of 150 mm. After that, it is also fixed with a counter-lattice, on which the crate is stuffed. It is not worth measuring the overlap of the next roll, there is a line on it for this.

The step of the roofing sheathing can be different, for example, under the metal tile, the strips are stuffed with a gap of about half a meter, and if you have ceramic tiles, then you need to focus on the dimensions of the plates.

Insulating the roof from the inside is also easy. Mineral wool boards are simply inserted from below between the rafters. Further, the insulation is hemmed with another membrane, on which it is already possible to sew on the fine finish of the attic.

If you like soft shingles more, then the diagram below gives step-by-step instructions for arranging it.

Conclusion

A gable roof is a good choice for a beginner home craftsman. I tried to highlight the main stages and subtleties of its arrangement. If you still have questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

October 9, 2017

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