Concrete floor in the washing section of the bath. Floor in the washroom - washroom of the bath. Gender requirements

The floor in the bath is distinguished by its structure only in the steam room and the washing room. The rest of the bath rooms are operated in the usual humidity regime. In the article, we will take a closer look at the device of floors in the steam room and talk about how to lay them with your own hands.

Choice of floor design for steam room and sink

Wooden floors are the usual solution. Their main advantage is the healthy properties of wood, environmental friendliness and practicality. Despite the relatively low service life of wooden floors in a steam room, they are not so difficult to change, and the total costs will still be lower than the arrangement of a concrete floor.

In the steam room and the washing room, a fair amount of water is constantly on the floor, which should be discharged into a pit, a drainage system, or simply into the ground under the bath. Structurally, to solve this problem, wood floors are divided into leaking and non-leaking.

The leaking floor provides for a gap between the planks. Water seeps freely into the underground space. Further, it is absorbed into the soil, if its filtering capacity allows it, or it is diverted into a pit, for which a clay castle or a concrete base is formed with a slope to one side.

The second option is a leak-proof floor in wet rooms of the bath. Such a floor is made with a non-removable covering and is replaced only at the end of its service life. A slope for collecting and draining water is provided here along the surface of the floor covering towards the tray or funnel.

A floor with a removable covering can and even should be dried regularly after disassembling, while the bath is not in use. Fixed floors, due to their susceptibility to rotting at high humidity, are completely replaced approximately once every 7-8 years.

The concrete base under the leaking wooden floor in the bath significantly increases the durability of the structure, and also affects the comfort - even after many years there will be no musty smell from under the floor. However, the arrangement of a concrete base significantly increases the cost of arranging a bath, so if the parent soil under the building has a high drainage capacity, then it is easier to get by with the preparation of the filter layer.

Materials and tools

To cover the floor in the steam room and washing room, wooden elements are used from deciduous (linden, aspen) and coniferous (pine, larch, cedar) wood species. All wooden floor structures must be treated with antiseptics.

For the floor device you will need:

• wooden bar for logs 50 (100) x100 mm;
• floorboard 35 mm thick;
• cement M300, M400;
• medium fraction sand;
• expanded clay for the thermal insulation layer;
• ordinary clay brick for posts for logs;
• waterproofing (roofing material).

It is important to choose the right wood protection impregnation. It should be suitable specifically for baths because of the high temperature and humidity. The easiest way to treat wood is to impregnate it with sunflower oil in two steps.

Tool

The floors in the steam room are arranged using a tool for laying the concrete base on the ground and the wooden floor covering of the bath.

Tools for working with concrete. 1. Rake-trowel. 2. Grater for cement. 3. Trowel. 4. Ironer. 5. The flat iron is angular. 6. Rule. 7. Bubble level. 8. Pendulum profile

Woodworking tools. 1. Building corner. 2. Brace. 3. Hammer. 4. Electric plane. 5. Clamps. 6. Hacksaw for wood. 7. Bubble level. 8. Screwdriver. 9. Drill. 10. Circular saw machine

Leaky floor made of individual bevelled planks

To prepare the subgrade for the floor structure, it is imperative to remove the fertile layer, no matter how thick it is.

Leaking floor on top of a concrete base. 1. Ground. 2. Expanded clay concrete. 3. Cement screed. 4. Chute. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

Leaking floor on the ground with filtering capacity. 1. Ground. 2. Sand pillow. 3. Gravel. 4. The foundation of the support pillar. 5. Brick post. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

It is important at this stage to decide how and where the water will be drained outside the building. For this, a tray (200x150h mm) is provided in the concrete base, into which water flows. The bottom of the tray is made with a slope towards the drain pit (30x30x25h). It is better to locate the sump closer to the place of the external water collection. From the sump, water flows through a drain pipe into a water collector.

The slope of the surface for the drainage of water is 2-3 cm per meter in the direction of the tray. It is created either by leveling the ground under the floor, or by filling (sand and gravel) under the concrete base. The overall floor level in the steam room and the washing room is reduced by 30 mm than in adjacent rooms with normal humidity.

A sand and gravel pillow 10-15 cm thick is laid on the compacted soil. It is necessary to fill and tamp the sand in layers of no more than 5 cm, wetting it with water. Next, a heat-insulating layer of expanded clay concrete is laid. Roughly the consumption of raw materials per 1 m 3 of concrete is:

1. without sand:
   • cement M300, 400 - 250 kg;
   • expanded clay - 720 kg;
   • water - 100-150 liters.
2. with sand:
   • cement M300, 400 - 230 kg;
   • expanded clay - 440 kg;
   • sand - 195 kg;
   • water - 100-130 liters.

It is best to prepare a concrete solution in a concrete mixer or order

It is permissible to use another light filler (shungizite, perlite, expanded vermiculite, crushed stone of porous rocks, etc.). The thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer can be taken as 150 mm. Concrete is laid in strips no more than 2.5 m wide on a base moistened with water. To limit the bands, slats are installed, they also serve as beacons to determine the thickness of the layer. The thicker the insulation layer, the warmer the floor.

The slope towards the gutter or funnel for collecting and draining water must be respected.

A cement-sand screed 40 mm thick is laid on a layer of expanded clay concrete. The composition of the mortar (M100) cement / sand: one to three. Before the mortar sets, it is necessary to iron the surface with cement milk. The cement is mixed with water to form a liquid sour cream. The surface is covered with an even thin layer of the mixture. This is done to increase the waterproofing of the concrete base.

Under the logs, brick posts made of solid clay ordinary bricks (250x250 mm) on a cement-sand mortar are installed. The distance between the posts is 0.8-1.0 m in the center. 2 layers of roofing material are laid on their surface. Next, logs are laid. The floorboards of the leaking floor are chamfered at the edges for water drainage. The gap between the boards is 5-6 mm.

Important! Do not use silicate bricks, hollow stones, silicate blocks in damp and wet rooms.

This floor is made removable in order to be able to dry the floorboard to increase its lifespan. Boards can move when walking on them, they are often grabbed with nails, planting nests up to 5 mm deep are prepared in logs for them, or spacer strips are stuffed on the boards along the edges.

Leaking floor from removable shields

Steam and soap room flooring can be made from removable wooden panels. Shield boards are laid with a gap on transverse bars of 50x50 mm. The size of the boards is taken for ease of removal and drying.

The floor structure is the same: compacted soil, compacted sand and gravel mixture, insulation - expanded clay concrete 150 mm thick. Ceramic floor tiles are laid on a cement-sand mortar 10-15 mm thick. The floor has a slope that is directed towards the drain pan. Removable shields are installed on the tiles so that the lower bars are located along the water drain.

Sequence of works for non-leaking floor

A non-leaking wooden floor assumes a continuous flooring of grooved boards along the joists. First, the location of the support posts is determined. They are located at a distance of 0.8-1.0 m from each other, measuring the distances along the centers. A concrete pad 100 mm thick and 70 mm wide is prepared for each post the size of the post.

Solid, leak-proof floor on top of the ground. 1. Ground. 2. Sand pillow. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk insulation material. 4. The foundation of the support pillar. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

A continuous leak-proof floor must be installed with a slope. The gutter can be placed in one of the logs located close to the wall. 1. Ground. 2. Sand pillow. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk insulation material. 4. Brick post on a concrete base. 5. Chute. 6. Floor board

Supports for logs are made of concrete or ordinary clay bricks on a cement-sand mortar. The size of the posts is 250x250 mm. The height of the supports must correspond to the upper edge of the embedded beam (columnar foundation), or to the top of the strip foundation.

The direction of laying the logs should be perpendicular to the direction of the water flow. Wooden elements are necessarily insulated from concrete or brick with two layers of waterproofing (roofing material). Expanded clay bedding with a thickness of 15 cm is made on the compacted soil.

A variant of the non-insulated floor is shown in the figure. In this case, the boards rest on one side of the wall log, on the other - on the log-gutter. The top of the tray is covered with a wooden ladder.

The insulated floor assumes logs with cranial bars, to which the subfloor is attached. Next, a vapor barrier is laid (membrane, polyethylene, polypropylene film), a layer of heat insulator is laid on it (mineral wool plate, polystyrene). Roll waterproofing (roofing felt) is laid along the heat-insulating layer.

Insulated non-leaking floor. 1. Soil, sand cushion and bulk insulation. 2. Brick post. 3. Logs and rough wood floor. 4. Insulation. 5. Logs and finishing floor, laid with a slope towards the gutter. 6. Chute. 7. A vapor-permeable membrane is laid on top of the subfloor, waterproofing is lined on top of the thermal insulation layer

There should be at least 3 cm clearance between the clean floor and the waterproofing. The lag size in this case is 100x170 mm. Skull block - 40x40 mm. For lags, you need to use only a solid bar.

Grooved boards are laid on the logs. Boards are sewn with nails or self-tapping screws to the logs through the tongue. This method of joining the boards together is called "parquet". Its advantage is the absence of hats on the surface of the board.

Each board is attached to all logs. They should fit snugly against one another. The gap between the boards should not exceed 1 mm. For rallying the boards, staples or clamps are used. Nails for fastening are used 2-2.5 times longer than the thickness of the boards. The end of the plank floor does not reach the wall by 10-20 mm. In the future, the gap is covered with a plinth.

Water is drained from the floor surface due to the floor slope in two directions. A hole is made at the drain and a siphon is installed. The slope of the floor can be made by adjusting the height of the log.

Even at the planning stage of the bath, I wanted it to become as comfortable as possible. So that no trifle interferes with enjoying the bath procedures. And I understood that the floor in the bath is not the last detail. I clearly did not want to see damp, rotting floors with fungi and mold spreading in the corners in my bathhouse. And I also thought that it would be nice if it was warm in the washing section, where you go to rinse yourself after the heat of the steam room. Therefore, I decided to make the floors in this part of the bath warm, that is, to lay a heating cable in the top layer of the floor screed.

The stages of installing a warm floor with waterproofing are as follows:

1. Arrangement of a sand cushion on the ground

I want to make a reservation right away that I made the floors right on top of the ground - inside the strip foundation. In principle, for baths, strip or columnar foundations are most often made, where the floor is originally a soil covering.

So, first we remove the fertile soil layer, preferably up to clay, that is, 15-20 cm. Pour sand into the resulting hole and lay the drain pipe. Make sure that the drain pipe has a water seal, otherwise the odors in the sink will still be there! Also, be sure to provide for the presence of a plug with which you could close the pipe outlet in winter.

The sandy pad should be spilled with water and tamped down thoroughly.

2. Hydro and vapor barrier

A layer of insulation should be laid on the sand pillow - I used roofing material, a dense film is also suitable. In no case, do not try to put roofing material under a sandy pillow, because inside the "pie" you will get a swamp, and this threatens with cracks and breaks in the floor.

3. Thermal insulation

On a layer of roofing material, I laid out sheets of EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) 50 mm thick. You can replace them with foam, but it should be more thick - at least 100mm. Insulating sheets will keep the heat coming from the underfloor heating cable, which we will put above. This means that the cable will not heat the ground, but will direct the energy in the right direction, that is, up to the floor covering.

4. Pouring concrete

We lay out a reinforcing mesh for rigidity on the sheets of EPS or polystyrene and pour concrete on top with a layer of 7-10 cm. It turns out that a reinforced concrete slab will lie on the thermal insulation layer.

5. Cement screed and laying of underfloor heating heating cable

After the concrete has hardened, you can start leveling the surface with a cement screed 30-50mm thick. Incidentally, the screed should not be even. In order for the water to flow freely over the surface to the drain, provide a screed slope of about 1 cm per 1 running meter. We lay an electric cable under the screed.

6. Porcelain stoneware tiles

The finishing layer of the floor covering in my bath is porcelain stoneware tiles. I chose porcelain stoneware because of its special strength and frost resistance, as well as resistance to temperature extremes. In general, I am sure that my tile will not burst if I decide to heat the bath on a frosty day.

As for the surface of the tile, it must be rough - this is a prerequisite for your safety. Although, soapy water will still do its job and even such a rough surface can be slippery. In this case, place wooden grates made from beams on the floor. They can be dried after each visit to the bath, so they will serve for a very long time.

7. Flanging on the walls

Flanging is necessary so that water during the washing process does not flow under the lower crown of the log house and does not lead to rotting of the wooden walls of the bath. However, flanging must be done in any case, even if the bath is brick, so that water does not fall directly on the walls.

I made a flanging with a height of a tile - this is the most optimal. You can make the base higher, but there is no particular sense in this.

First, we fix several bars with a thickness of 2-3 cm to the wooden walls of the bath to provide a ventilation gap. It is necessary so that the space between the wall of the bath and the inner surface of the flange can dry out during the period between washing. We fix the bars vertically along the height of the future base. We fix pieces of DSP or moisture-resistant drywall to the bars, and then we glue the tiles on them. We seal the joint between the flange and the floor with a sealant so that water does not flow out of the resulting "trough". We also coat all tile joints with a sealant to retain moisture. The base is covered with tiles from above so that water does not get behind the wall of the base.

Now you can splash around in the sink and pour water on the floor to the height of a whole tile! And the water won't seep out!

The floor design proposed by me, firstly, does not absorb moisture and does not cause an unpleasant odor in the sink, secondly, it is as hygienic as possible, thanks to the ceramic granite tiles, and, thirdly, it additionally warms the room with the energy of an electric cable.

Hope my advice is helpful.

Sincerely, Vladimir

The floors in the bathhouse are not at all a trifle, as it might initially seem. The methods of their arrangement differ from the technologies used in residential premises, primarily in that the bath floors are part of the sewer system. If properly laid, the sauna compartments will be dry, despite the constant humidity in these rooms. And this means the absence of mold, mildew and a long service life of this cult establishment for all Russians. There are different methods of flooring in a bath, so you need to choose an acceptable one and adapt it to your construction. Bath floors can be made independently, you just need to have a general understanding of the principles of their installation and the differences between the schemes.

Laying floors in the wash compartment

The washing area is perhaps the main room of the bathhouse. Here visitors spend most of their time between short visits to the steam room.

In the washing compartment, water is constantly poured in large volumes, which is why maximum attention should be paid to the arrangement of this bath area. Especially the laying of floors, since they are the ones most susceptible to moisture and temperature changes, it depends on them whether the washing room will be comfortable and warm or uncomfortable and cold.

There is always a lot of water in the sink, so the floors must be well ventilated and dry quickly

The high humidity of this room puts forward special requirements for the flooring so that they do not collapse in a fairly short time. The floors in the washroom should:

• resist thermal drops and do not let in a draft;
• be breathable and dry quickly;
• to provide normal ventilation, free outflow of water, the permissible temperature of the floor covering.

Taking into account these requirements, the owner of the bath must consider all types of floors and choose the most suitable one. Moreover, you need to decide on the materials for the floor even before pouring the screed.

Floor structures for washing

The surface temperature of a bath floor rarely exceeds 30 ° C, since the floor must be warm, not hot, pleasant for bare feet, and not so that even bath slippers melt. Therefore, you can use any material for its assembly - wood, tiles, clay, concrete and others.

Do not use synthetic surfaces. Chemistry has no place where high temperature and humidity are present.

Any flooring has its pros and cons:

Consider the most common options for bath floors.

Wooden floor in the sink

Deciduous and coniferous lumber is suitable for its arrangement: cedar, spruce, oak, ash, larch, fir. It is better to choose conifers, since the resin they produce significantly increases the life of the floors. In addition, wood has a healing effect on the body, and wet wooden flooring does not slip, and this is additional safety for visitors.

The advantages of wooden floors include:

• simplicity and ease of styling;
• naturalness, environmental friendliness and durability;
• low cost of work.

The disadvantages are the following:

If you are settling on wooden floors, then you should be aware that, depending on the drain device, they are of two types: leaking and non-leaking structures.

In turn, leaking floors differ in the installation pattern:

Consider the sequence of work for the installation of leaking floors.

1. A hole is dug in the middle of the underground.
2. From its bottom in the direction of the drain ditch, a trench breaks through, in which a sewerage (waste) pipe is laid with an inclination towards the water collector by about 3-4 ° (an approximate difference in height along the entire trench is 5 cm for each running meter).

   The sewer pipe for draining water is laid with a slope towards the water intake

3. The bath foundation is being erected and waterproofed.
4. After that, along the entire border of the subfloor, the earth is taken out from the walls of the base (or pillars), again with a slope of 10 ° towards the dug hole.
5. Then the slopes are covered with crushed stone and compacted well (for greater strength, a reinforcing mesh with cells of the order of 80x80 mm can be laid on top of the crushed stone). Everything is poured with dense concrete mortar, which is leveled and smoothed. To reduce the cost of work, instead of concrete, you can use well-mixed clay. It is laid out in a 10-centimeter layer, smoothed and, as it dries, moistened with water and smoothed.
6. Further, the walls of the foundation, if provided by technology, are tied with a metal belt and beam structures treated with an antiseptic are mounted. The lower crown beams are attached to the harness, and if it is not there, then to the walls of the base with the help of anchors or studs).

   The floor logs in the bath do not need to be cut into the casing, then they can be easily replaced if necessary

7. Floor boards with gaps are laid on the floor beams. The thickness of the boards depends on the distance between the joists, but should not be less than 20 mm.

   Simple and reliable floors with slots for water draining are quickly installed and easily replaced with new ones

Often the boards are not attached to the girder vault, but are connected to each other with a bar and the ready-made boards are simply placed on top. In this case, the beam should be among the floor beams. Such shields are very convenient to take out for drying.

The scheme of equipment for non-leaking floors is not much different from the one described above in principle, although it is more complicated to implement. The difference is that the boards are laid without gaps on the rough flooring, for which second grade wood is quite suitable.

For such floors, the logs are deepened into a concrete or clay layer (possibly into the soil itself), waterproofing is laid on top, sealed with a sealant. The space between the lags is filled with insulation. The subfloor is made with a slope towards the barred drain hole, through which water from the washing room enters the sewer network or the drainage pit and is covered with polyethylene, then the wooden flooring is mounted.

In the scheme for arranging non-leaking floors, water flows into a specially equipped hole along an inclined plane

It is impossible to disassemble such floors for drying, therefore, excellent ventilation must be provided so that the wooden floor of a leak-proof structure does not rot ahead of time. This is its disadvantage, but the non-leaking assembly is stronger and more durable and provides for the possibility of a heating device to ensure maximum comfort from water procedures even in severe frosts.

Heating can be arranged under the topcoat of the leak-proof floor

The choice of materials for the drain device

We must say right away that you cannot save on materials for arranging floors in a washing room. You need to choose the best, modern ones that will be effective for years. To create a drainage system, it is necessary to use plastic building materials that do not corrode, are resistant to wetting, are easy to assemble and operate without losing their qualities for more than 50 years.

These can be PVC, HDPE, PVCH (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) pipes, polypropylene or corrugated polyethylene products. Any of them are perfect for the internal drainage device in the bath.

The diameter of the pipes is selected according to the intensity of the use of the bath:

• if a steam room, sauna, toilet is provided (ie several drain points), then pipes of Ø 100–110 mm will be required;
• without the use of plumbing, only pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are sufficient for draining water.

Calculation of materials and tools

To organize an internal drain in the washing department, you need:

• pipes Ø 110 or Ø 50 - the quantity is calculated depending on the length of the drainage network;
• adapters from Ø 50 to Ø 110 for connecting pipes of different diameters;
• tees 110x110x90 and a 90 ° elbow - 3 pieces each;
• vertical pipes for the device of water intakes (Ø 110 or Ø 50);
• cement, crushed stone and sand.

Materials are purchased according to the chosen installation method. The same goes for tools. But in any case, you will need:

• building level;
• Bulgarian;
• bayonet shovel.

Concrete floor in the wash compartment

Concrete flooring is the most common because it is cheap and easy to install.

After hardening, you can make the flooring from cork boards or wooden gratings and install a drain.

For safety reasons, it is better not to cover the concrete floor with tiles or lay wooden lattice panels on top.

Other types of floors in the sink

Those who respect old bath traditions equip an earthen floor in the washroom. The process of laying it is extremely simple - the top layer of the earth is cut off by about 15 cm around the entire perimeter of the room and the remaining earth is tamped.

If you really respect the customs of your ancestors, then you need to pull out a pit half a meter deep and fill it with a mixture of fine sand and gravel. If desired, you can lay boards on top.

Previously, the floors in the bathhouse were arranged directly on the ground, after cutting off its top layer and tamping the base

We have already talked about the clay floor, but despite all the advantages of the clay itself, such a floor has a big drawback - the clay does not dry well, and when it dries, it forms cracks into which water seeps. As a result, a persistent, unpleasant, swampy odor appears in the washroom over time.

In short, wood is the best choice, although it can be combined with other materials.

Video: do-it-yourself correct floors in a washing bath

Floor covering in the washing room

Paul is ready, it's time to think about protecting him. Everyone knows about the antiseptic, you should not neglect it and save on it. Wooden elements are processed even before the start of the main work, otherwise the wooden flooring can be damaged. The antiseptic does not change the texture of wood, does not contain heavy metals and harmful salts, perfectly protects wooden components from biological damage.

It is also recommended to use a good varnish. Before applying it, you need to prepare the surface well. It should be clean, free of greasy spots, sanded to a mirror-like condition and dry. The varnish is applied in several layers, after it has completely dried, the bath must be heated and ventilated.

The varnish must be applied to a previously sanded and well-cleaned surface.

The floors can also be painted. Only paint should be of the highest quality and absolutely harmless when heated.

In addition, there are folk remedies for flooring - the use of waste after processing sunflower oil. They are applied with a roller onto a thoroughly cleaned and dried surface. Repeat 2-3 times at intervals of three days. Such a coating is safe, gives the wood a beautiful shade, and besides, it will cost almost free.

If the floor in the bath is concrete, then it must be covered with a finishing material, since by itself it looks unattractive. The concrete floor is covered with a massive floor board, porcelain or ceramic tiles, parquet, cork products.

In principle, any material is suitable, as long as it meets all safety rules. Otherwise, it all depends on the conceived design, on the personal preferences of the owner of the bath and on his financial capabilities.

Laying the floor in the steam room

Although the steam room is the heart of the bath, the floors are surprisingly the least significant segment of the entire bath project. The main thing here is the wall partitions and the ceiling. Remember how primitive everything was with our great-grandfathers. They threw plank blocks or chopped logs on the ground, and this was enough to take a bath with pleasure even in areas with fierce winters. Are your feet cold? They poured hot water and that's it. Nobody complained and my health was excellent.

Therefore, you should not pay too much attention to laying the floors in the steam room. Some advise equipping the steam room with insulation, vapor barrier and rough flooring. Of course, this is very modern, but for a steam room it will be a waste of money.

As practice shows, a simple scheme for arranging floors in a bath is the best.

And why drive moisture deep into the wood. It is much better and easier to create conditions for the free passage of water, and then take care of drying and ventilation. And it is much more essential to make the floors in the steam room non-slip in order to avoid injury.

If the steam room is combined with the washing compartment, then there is no constructive difference between them, everything is common and the same, in this case the floors are equipped according to the methods described above.

When the steam room is a separate area and there is no need to drain a large amount of water, then the floor is laid from edged boards with small bevels (deck board). The slots may be slightly narrower.

The deck board is made from larch and therefore resists moisture well

It is much easier with concrete floors - they are made in the same way as in all sections of the bath. A wooden ladder is certainly laid on top, since a bare, uncovered concrete slab is not very pleasant.

The device of the floor in the steam room, as, indeed, in the entire bath, is an excellent indicator: if after laying it in the bath it is cold, then look at the ceiling, most likely, it is there that there are problems with vapor barrier.

What to make a floor in a steam room: choosing the best material

Of course, wood is out of competition:

And what really cannot be used for floors in a steam room is linoleum, chipboard and fiberboard. Wood-based panels are highly flammable, and unnatural materials can release hazardous substances at high temperatures.

Equipment of the concrete floor in the steam room

It is advisable to purchase all the necessary building materials from one manufacturer. This will add strength to the entire structure as a whole. You need to purchase:

• edge tape;
• sand, cement M200 or 300 and gravel;
• a primer, roofing felt and a dry mixture of a self-leveling screed.

Tools for the job

To complete the entire process of equipping the floor in the double room, you will need:

• protective equipment for eyes and hands;
• bayonet shovel and building level;
• a bowl for mixing a solution or a bucket;
• concrete mixer and mixer;
• rollers (needle and primer);
• rules and construction trowel;
• gas burner for soldering roofing material.

Step-by-step instructions for laying a concrete floor in a steam room

1. Preparation of the solution. You will need a concrete mixer, in which the components of the solution are placed - sand, cement grade 200 or 300 and gravel in a ratio of 2: 1: 3. It does not make sense to use other brands of cement (higher), this will only increase the cost of work. Add water and bring to the required consistency.

   Sand, gravel, cement and water are used to prepare the solution.

2. Subfloor adjustment. The soil in the steam room is covered with roofing material cut into sheets, and the seams are soldered with a gas burner. It is needed as a waterproofing agent. A 10-centimeter concrete layer is applied on top of the roofing material with a construction trowel, after which the entire screed is leveled under the level using a rule. When the solution is completely dry, proceed to the next step.

   After the end of the pouring, the concrete layer must be leveled with the rule

3. Finishing alignment. The final leveling of the concrete layer is done literally down to the millimeter. For this, a self-leveling mixture is used. Before laying it, the surface is cleaned of debris and dust, and then primed. The primer is applied with a regular roller.
4. Self-leveling screed mortar application. Along the entire length of the steam room, the bottom of the wall is pasted over with edge tape. This is done so that the screed does not stick to the wall and break in the future. The dry self-leveling mixture is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package and mixed with a mixer until smooth. Following this, it is evenly poured over the entire surface and leveled with a needle roller to remove air bubbles.
5. Finishing work. The floor filled with a self-leveling screed is left to dry and only then they begin finishing work.

Video: pouring a screed in a bath with your own hands

Steam room floor covering

Some people believe that no impregnation should be used in the steam room, arguing that the bath should give health, and not emit harmful fumes at high temperatures. It is difficult to disagree with this. But there is another side of the coin - physical wear and tear and decay.

Not only the wood sheathed in the steam room needs protection, but even the concrete floor screed loses its properties over the years. Plus, unprocessed, it accumulates dust that lovers of hot steam breathe.

If this does not bother the owner of the bathhouse and he is ready to change the lining of the steam room (including replacing or repairing the floor) every 5 years, then, of course, no impregnations and oils. Otherwise, the treatment of the steam room must be done and it is advisable to use for this natural wax and oils specially designed for saunas and steam rooms.

Linseed oil emphasizes the structure of the tree, creates a protective film on its surface and does not emit harmful substances when heated

Concrete floor screed can be treated with organic and inorganic impregnations. This will increase the durability of the concrete and prevent excessive accumulation of dust. But you need to apply impregnation in the steam room thoughtfully, carefully studying the instructions and composition.

There are many schemes for arranging floors in the washroom and steam room. They are all accessible and understandable. They can be implemented independently. You can even apply several technologies at the same time, such a combination will give a good drainage and an even surface. But as practice shows, the technology that is simpler is better. Good luck and light steam.

Since the washroom belongs to one of the main premises in the bath building, work on its arrangement must be performed in full accordance with the technology, taking into account the slightest nuances. Even a minor mistake can degrade the performance of the wash compartment. Particularly noteworthy is the solution to the question of how to make the floor in the washing bath correctly.

The conditions in which the floor covering is used in the washing room are characterized by the constant presence of a high level of humidity and frequent temperature changes. In the process of designing a bath and during its construction, this must be taken into account.

Requirements for the floor covering in the sink

In order for the floor in the bathhouse in the washing room to be made of high quality and last long enough, it must meet a number of requirements:

• drain water quickly and in full, for which the floor covering is made with a slight slope towards the drain hole or is equipped according to the so-called flowing technology;
• well ventilated and dry quickly;
• be resistant to high humidity and temperature changes;
• it should be laid so as to exclude the possibility of drafts.

Varieties of flooring in the washroom

In private households, wooden (leaking / non-leaking) and concrete floor structures are usually laid in the washing departments of the baths.

As practice shows, the simplest option in terms of implementation is the leaking floor shown in the photo. On a pre-prepared base, which can be a concrete screed, a lower crown, support pillars, etc., logs are attached - they will become the basis for installing flooring from boards.

Floor elements are laid at intervals of 3-5 millimeters. It is through these gaps that water will be drained. Typically, leaking flooring is made collapsible. This design allows, if necessary, to remove the flooring and dry the boards with high quality outdoors.

The leaking option, which is simple to perform and inexpensive at a price, has a significant drawback - it cannot be insulated. When a bathhouse is being built, the floors in the washing room, made in this way, can be installed without creating a slope. Water will flow out through the gaps between the boards, and then go into the soil under the building.

When a non-leaking wood floor is created, the elements are laid without gaps. This design does not provide for the disassembly of the boards. It is equipped with a slope in the direction of the drain hole. Further, the water enters the collector and through the pipeline is discharged outside the building.

A non-leaking flooring device in a bathhouse in the washing compartment requires a rough base and a layer of thermal insulation. Particular attention should be paid to solving the problem of ventilation of the underground space. One or more holes are made in the floor for ventilation - their number depends on the area of ​​the room. Plastic pipes with a cross section of 50 or 100 millimeters are inserted into them.

By the way, when a bathhouse is being built, the warm floors in the washing room are created precisely not leaking.

Concrete floors in the garbage can be made quite often, as they have many advantages:

• simple device;
• durability, strength and reliability;
• unpretentious care.

Pouring a concrete surface is often much cheaper than installing a wooden floor structure. But such a floor has an important drawback - it is cold to the touch (read: "Cold floor in the bath - solutions to the problem, insulation").

There are several ways to solve this problem:

• move around in special shoes;
• insulate the floor;
• to mount a floor heating system, which will require a lot of money.

Wood flooring technology

When deciding how to cover the floor in the bathhouse in the washing room, many of their owners opt for wooden flooring. The work is carried out in stages (in more detail: "The correct arrangement of a wooden floor in a bath - a step-by-step guide").

First, they are preparing the base. For this, logs are mounted using a beam of pine or larch. It is advisable to make the flooring from boards, in which the material of manufacture must coincide with the lag wood. Floor covering (non-leaking) is made with a slope, so that the water flows down the drain.

The logs are mounted along the width of the washing compartment, thereby choosing the smallest distance between the opposite walls. In the event that the room is square, they can be installed in any direction.

Lag installation procedure:

1. In order for them to gain stability, in the center of each of them a support chair is made of bricks, wood or with the help of concrete pouring. When using brick or wood, you need to fill in a special platform with a height of 20 centimeters with reinforcement. It should be sized so that it protrudes 5 centimeters on each side of the support being created.
2. Pits for the base are dug 40 centimeters deep for each site. The bottom and walls are tamped. Sand is poured into the depression in a 10-centimeter layer and 15 centimeters of gravel. Formwork is made of edged boards, its height should exceed the ground level by 5 centimeters. Roofing material is laid along the edges of the pit, a concrete solution is prepared and the formwork is poured with a layer of 10-15 centimeters. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top. From above it is again poured with concrete to the uppermost edge of the formwork (in more detail: "How the floor is poured in the bath - we make a slope to drain water"). The sites should dry within several days.
3. Heated bitumen is applied to the surface of the concrete base and a layer of roofing material is placed.
4. When laying out a brick support, 4 rows are enough. Laying is performed using a standard solution. A support is required for each log.
5. At the next stage, the underground is prepared, or rather the ground in this place of the structure. During the construction of a leaking floor structure, when the composition of the soil allows moisture to pass through, crushed stone is poured underground in a 25-centimeter layer and tamped. As a result, water will seep between the flooring elements into the existing gaps, penetrate into the ground through the backfill and be absorbed. In this case, crushed stone will act as a filter.
6. If the soil does not absorb moisture well, you need to equip a tray in it to drain water into a sump.
7. When implementing a non-leaking structure, you need to decide how to insulate the floor in the bathhouse in the washroom underground. It is best to use expanded clay, observing a 15-centimeter gap between the logs and backfill.
8. A pit 30 centimeters high and 40-50 centimeters wide is dug near the wall. Its walls are rammed and strengthened with clay. A pipe is taken out of the pit under a slope, for example, into the sewer. It is necessary to use products with a diameter of at least 11 centimeters for the fastest possible drainage of fluid.
9. The installation of the lag begins, they are fixed with anchors. In this case, you need to observe a 30-40 mm distance between walls and logs. Before the start of installation work, the crown should be covered with roofing felt. The lag bar is additionally treated with an antiseptic composition.
10. In the process of attaching the lags, you need to monitor their horizontal location. If necessary, they are cut at the point of contact with the support. It is also necessary to control the lag ratio between each other using a level.

Then they proceed to the flooring of the wooden covering. The device of the floor in the bath in the washing room according to the flowing version is performed using unedged boards. Decking elements should be pre-trimmed. It is necessary to make the most even surface from the end of the boards. Better yet, buy edged products.

The floors are laid in a washing room in a wooden bath in a flowing way in the following sequence:

1. The boards are cut taking into account the parameters of the room, observing the ventilation gap between adjacent flooring elements and walls of at least 20 millimeters in size.
2. The floor surface is laid from any wall, placing the floorboards parallel to it. 20 millimeters retreat from the selected wall and put the first board on the logs, nailing it down. The length of the fasteners is selected in accordance with the thickness of the flooring. For example, 4cm pieces require 8cm nails.
3. Drive in the fasteners correctly, stepping back about 15 millimeters from the edge of the board. In this case, the nails must be set at an angle of 40 degrees. A minimum of two fasteners should be used to secure one board.
4. When the first bar is fixed, proceed to the installation of the second. The recommended gap between adjacent planks should be at least 3 millimeters. All flooring elements are fixed according to the described technology.
5. They begin the final processing of the floor (in more detail: "How and with what to treat the floor in the bath - the choice of the correct impregnation"). Even two layers of drying oil will be enough. It is better to refuse staining.

When arranging a non-leaking floor, a tongue-and-groove board is used. The flooring elements are laid with a groove inside the room. In the process of fitting, you should tap with a mallet on the end with a groove. If you do not adhere to this rule, the tongue can break, since it is 2 times thinner than the fabric of the product.

A non-leaking floor in a sink in a wooden bath or other type of bath building is equipped as follows:

1. First of all, make a rough base. At the edges of the bottom of the mounted logs, wooden blocks measuring 5x5 centimeters are nailed. Planks of the rough base are laid on them, for which you can use wood of 2-3 grades. They are fixed with nails.
2. Further, waterproofing of the floor in the bathhouse in the washing room is provided. For this, for example, roofing material or a dense film is laid on top of the rough base.
3. Install thermal insulation. The optimal choice of thermal insulation material is expanded clay, which is poured between the logs. A second layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation.
4. At the final stage, they begin to create a finishing flooring from grooved boards. Laying is carried out using the same technology as in the case of a leaking floor covering, but the floor elements are fixed without gaps.
5. Refusal to fasten boards with nails is allowed. Then they can be removed to be taken out of the garbage room for the purpose of drying. In this case, a special method is used: the floorboards are fixed at the edges with the help of bars, which, in turn, are attached to the logs with wood grouse screws. When the need arises, they are unscrewed, the bars and boards are removed and dried outside the garbage can.

Ventilation structure device

The simplest method of solving the problem with ventilation of the space that exists between the rough base and the final finish of the floor is to create holes to which pipes are connected that remove water from the washing room.

There is another way how you can create ventilation - this is the installation of multilevel floors. Therefore, in each room, a floor structure of different heights is made. For example, in the washroom, the floor surface will be 3 millimeters lower than in the dressing room.

The first option is the most popular among developers, while the order of work is as follows:

1. In the corners of the washroom at the base of the floor, holes are left for laying ventilation pipes with a diameter of 5-10 centimeters. The material of their manufacture can be different.
2. Install pipes for ventilation after finishing the walls in the room. Products with a diameter of no more than 5 centimeters can be disguised under the skin. Larger pipes should be installed in bath buildings, which are visited more than twice a week. They are mounted in the corners of the room, attached to the surface of the walls with the help of special clamps.

Arrangement of a concrete floor

Concrete flooring will last more than 25 years, while wooden floors and logs will only last 6-10 years. But the installation of the screed is a laborious process, since you will need to purchase or prepare a solution and fill it with reinforcement. You will also need to install thermal insulation and perform other activities.

The procedure for pouring concrete floors:

1. First, a pit is prepared, where water from the washing room will flow. To do it, they make a pit. A pipe with a diameter of 15-20 centimeters is laid in the pit and taken out into a gutter, sewerage system or other similar place. The size of the pit depends on the area of ​​the room.
2. The soil is leveled and broken brick is poured onto it in a 15-centimeter layer. On top of it, rubble is placed in a layer of 10 centimeters, and then tamped. In other options, backfills are first used crushed stone, and then sand or broken brick and sand. All methods are considered correct.
3. For waterproofing on top of the backfill, roofing material or other similar roll material is laid in one layer, not forgetting the need to make a 10-centimeter overlap on the walls. To ensure complete sealing, joints and seams are treated with bitumen.
4. On top of the waterproofing material, a heater is poured - expanded clay. The thickness of this layer depends on the climate in a particular region. Most often, the backfill is done with a height of 5-10 centimeters. A reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the expanded clay, preferably with cells of 15x15 centimeters, assembled from rods with a cross section of 10 - 12 mm. At the intersection, they are fastened with a flexible knitting wire. The mesh is fixed with cement mortar for reliability. Before pouring, the guides are fixed on the base.

At the end of the work, the filling of the sand-cement screed is leveled, distributing the mixture evenly over the surface. For smoothing use, for example, a piece of edged board. To prepare the solution, it is advisable to use expanded sand (perlite). When using it, it is important to observe the correct proportions.

The solution is made as follows:

1. 2 buckets of perlite are poured into a container (concrete mixer or trough) and 10 liters of water are poured. Mix everything well.
2. Then add ½ part of a 10-liter bucket of expanded sand, stir the mass for 10-15 minutes, pour in 5 liters of water. Kneading is continued until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
3. Then a bucket of perlite is poured and 2 liters of water are poured. The result should be an almost free-flowing composition. Do not add water. After the mass is infused for 10 minutes, it will acquire plasticity.

The finished mass is laid and leveled. The layer should be no more than 15 millimeters. It completely solidifies in 4-5 days. On top, if desired, put ceramic tiles.

The device of the washing compartment in the bath

Usually baths are equipped with several branches. This is a rest room, dressing room and washing department. Particular attention must be paid to the last room in the bath, since it is in the washing room that the temperature and humidity level must be maintained. In the washing bath, it would be appropriate to equip a shower room, purchase and install tubs, or even make a small pool.

But the indispensable elements in the washing section of the bath are benches. They are very convenient for performing various procedures, for example, for massage. Such a washing room in a bathhouse will delight you for more than one year.

Nuances in the arrangement

How the washing section of the bath will look like and what elements will be present in it, it is necessary to think over in advance. First of all, it is necessary to provide for a device for entering water into the bath, and how it will be heated and drained. Ventilation is also of great importance in the washing section of a bath, as moisture and high temperatures are constantly present there. With high humidity in the bath, there is a risk of mold and mildew.

Next, we determine the size of the washing compartment of the bath. Here it is necessary to determine exactly how many people will wash in the bath. Traditionally, it is believed that about 1.2 m2 per person. But in principle, everything is decided by the tastes and possibilities of the owners of the bath.

As for the material, the interior of the sink should be made only of natural materials.

Wooden finishing

In the washing section of the bath, it is necessary to use coniferous wood. Since the bath has a high level of humidity, and the peculiarity of these rocks is the resistance to moisture due to the resin content, which excludes rotting of the material. In order to provide greater protection, the wood should be treated with special agents.

Facing tiles in the wash compartment of the bath

It is one of the most durable materials. Differs in such characteristics as durability and ease of care. The variety of materials is very great both in color and in the original design solution. The sizes of the tiles are also different and you can choose any one if necessary. The disadvantages of this material are that the surface of the ceramic tiles is very slippery. Recently, there have been types of ceramic tiles with special characteristics that allow them to be used for finishing in a bathroom or in a bath. But, nevertheless, in order to avoid injury, it is better to additionally use wooden grates or rubber mats on the floor in the washing section of the bath.

The use of natural stone

It is used much less frequently due to its high cost. Most often, this type of finish is performed in combination with ceramic tiles or wood. The advantages of this material include its durability, strength and environmental friendliness. But the downside is that working with this material is quite time consuming and you can hardly do without the help of specialists. It is much easier to work with artificial stone. It is very light, and it will not be difficult to decorate the walls of the bath yourself. And it wins in price compared to natural material.

Lining and PVC panels

The characteristics of natural materials were presented above. But in some cases, artificial ones can also be applied. These include lining and PVC panels. First of all, this material is affordable. He also wins in the way of installation. But it is significantly inferior in environmental friendliness and in resistance to mechanical damage.

It is strictly forbidden to use materials such as fiberboard and chipboard, as well as impregnated wood. At elevated temperatures, these materials begin to release substances harmful to the human body.

Features of arrangement at the construction stage

Everyone knows that the washing compartment is the part of the bath in which moisture is constantly present. And this fact must be taken into account even at the stage of building a bath. Here it is necessary to select building materials that are able to withstand such a load and ensure the durability of the use of the washing compartment in the bath. In addition to the need to purchase materials such as clay, crushed stone, sand, cement, sawdust, you should definitely think about waterproofing materials. These include both the already widespread roofing material and mastic, and less commonly used expanded clay, insulation of various types and moisture-resistant drywall.

Also, at the construction stage of the bath, it is necessary to think over the arrangement of all communications. First of all, this is water supply and drainage in the washing compartment. If you plan to install a shower cabin, then you need to purchase it ready-made. But the option of installing a shower with your own hands is not excluded.

All the elements necessary for this are purchased for the hood and ventilation device. At the stage of the construction of the bathhouse, pipes must be available to ensure the flow of air and its exhaust.

Arrangement of a drain in the washing

For a correct drainage device in the wash compartment, it is necessary to correctly calculate the load that this system will carry out. Here you should take into account the water consumption during bathing of one person. Typically, up to 10 liters of hot and 40 liters of cold water are consumed. It is clear that with more active operation of the washing compartment, the consumption will be much higher. And here you should think about whether the drainage of water will cope with such a load and what dimensions they can suit. Therefore, it is necessary to produce a high quality drainage device.

Let's give an example of a water drainage device in the washing section of a bath and the procedure for carrying out work:

Important! In no case should you equip a drain well directly under the bathhouse, as this is fraught with constant dampness in the room.

Floor in the washroom

Recently, in the washing section of the bath, the flooring is made of ceramic tiles. Here you can save on facing material and buy inexpensive tiles. Since in this room it is recommended to cover the floor surface with rubber mats or install wooden supports. This is due to the fact that it is very easy to slip on the wet surface of the ceramic floor.

Consider a few tips for installing floors in the washing section of a bath.

First, the floor should be poured with concrete, after it has hardened, we perform the screed with cement-sand mortar. It is advisable to carry out floor insulation. To do this, add expanded clay to the solution and fill in layers. We put insulation between them. A special felt used in construction can act as a heater. First, it must be impregnated with bitumen. In the corners between the floor and walls, we carry out treatment with bitumen to increase waterproofing.

Important! The floor in the wash compartment must be made with a slight slope towards the drain hole.

When installing a wooden floor, it is necessary to completely cover all the concrete with roofing material and mount the lathing. A board is laid on the floor crate. If the floor will be finished with ceramic tiles, then before laying it is necessary to treat the concrete with mastic.

In some cases, they refuse to finish the floor with any material, but simply lay wooden gratings tightly to each other. Before this, the grill strips must be carefully sanded so as not to injure your feet with splinters during washing.

Important! Do not cover the floor surface in the washing section of the bath with linoleum. This type of flooring is not suitable for indoor use with high moisture levels.

Walls and ceiling

Wall and ceiling decoration in the washing section of the bath can be done with the following materials:

• wood materials;
• ceramic tile;
• natural or artificial stone;
• lining.

Very often materials are combined.

Here are some instructions for finishing the walls and ceiling of the washing compartment in the bath:

Conclusion

Before starting work on the installation of the washing department of the bath, it is necessary to accurately determine all aspects: location, material for finishing, arrangement of the drain. In the event that the instructions given in this article are strictly followed, you can be sure that the bath will delight you for many years without the need to perform any alterations.

The bathhouse consists of two rooms - a steam room (washing room) and a dressing room. Each of these premises has its own characteristics, the technology of floor construction takes these differences into account. Let's start first with more complex work - the floor in the steam room, and then we will consider the device of the floors in the dressing room.

Features of floors in the steam room

High temperatures, high humidity and direct contact with water require extra care during flooring. Otherwise, washing will be uncomfortable and the floors will have to be changed frequently. So, we have a ready-made log house, what to start with the construction of floors and what they are.

Photo of the floor in the steam room, already finished and laid

Wooden floor in the steam room

The simplest option, they are laid only with natural (glued will not work!) Coniferous boards, the thickness of the boards is not less than 25 mm, the distance between the logs is not more than 80 cm, the distance between the beams is 1.0 ÷ 1.3, The thicker the board, the greater the distance maybe between lags. For lags, you can take bars of 50 × 100 mm, the dimensions of the beams are about 100 × 100 mm. There is a desire - make the impregnation with antiseptics, there is no desire - and without impregnation the floors will last for many years. The main difference between pouring floors is that water flows over the entire area in a slot with a width of ≈5 mm.

Do-it-yourself pouring floor. Instructions

Step 1.

The point is that the water must go into the ground. If the soil is sandy, no problem. If your soil is clayey or loamy, there will be problems. Baths are built on columnar or shallow strip foundations, they dig to a depth of about 50 cm, rarely anyone makes a sand pillow (but in vain!). Clay soils with an excess of moisture swell, the bath begins to "play" with all the negative consequences. This means that on clay soils, it is imperative to make a drainage if the foundations are closed (tape shallow). You should not be especially upset if the builders are responsible, then they must have left ventilation holes in the foundation, they can be used to drain water. There are no such holes - you have to do it yourself.

Step 2. The floors are laid on logs, logs on beams. And here a lot of things depend on the conscientiousness of the builders. They had to lay the beams during the laying of the timber. Didn't you get it? The problem is, you need to make columns for them.

The pillars should be poured only with concrete, the brick is afraid of moisture and crumbles after a few years.

Stage Description

	Make markings, the distance between the posts is the same as the distance between the beams. In most cases, 1.0 ÷ 1.3 m is sufficient (for beams 100 × 100 mm). Dig square holes 50 centimeters deep, pour 15 ÷ 20 cm thick sand on the bottom and tamp it down, this will be a pillow that prevents swelling.
	In clayey soils, the formwork does not need to be done, the earth will hold its shape anyway, the formwork needs to be done only for the protruding part of the posts. For sandy soils, formwork will have to be done along the entire height of the posts. For formwork, you can use various waste boards, trimming OSB board or plywood. The height of the posts should be below the floor level (in construction, this level is considered to be the zero mark) to the height of the beams, the log and the thickness of the boards. First, you need to set the formwork of the extreme posts, pull the rope between them and put all the rest at this level.
	Pour concrete, making it elementary, no advice is needed.
	After pouring, you need to wait at least two weeks, during this period of time the concrete gains 50% of its final strength, you can already work with such material. Remove the formwork and check the position of the posts again. If necessary, adjust the posts with a cement-sand mortar, make them as equal in height as possible.

Video - An example of arranging a columnar base for logs

It is advisable to lay the beams on a waterproofing material, it is not necessary to use expensive modern cushioning materials, you can use an ordinary roofing material or several layers of plastic film.

The beams are fixed to the posts with corners - a dowel in concrete, to a tree with a self-tapping screw or a nail. Lay the beams and logs according to the level, constantly check the spatial position, fix the logs to the beams with metal corners. Equal height is also checked with a rope stretched between the outer eiders. If necessary, pieces of boards should be placed under the logs for leveling. Just do not use wedges, they fall out over time, the emphasis of the gaskets should be over the entire area of ​​the beam.

Step 3. Laying boards.

Boards lie across the log, do not forget to leave gaps between them for water to drain. In order for the slots to have the same width, a thin river of suitable thickness can be used as a template. After laying the board, it is removed.

You can nail it down (quickly and cheaply), or you can use self-tapping screws. The main thing is that the hats must be flush. Why are nails better? The fact is that the relative humidity of the floors in the steam room varies considerably, the boards swell and dry out. The nails compensate for these changes in the thickness of the floor, they pull out a little from the log, the length of the nails in our case is approximately 70 mm. In general, there is a rule - the length of the nails should be three times longer than the thickness of the board to be nailed. Self-tapping screws hold "tightly", the boards break a little, which is not very desirable.

Video - Preparing boards for laying

Video - Installing beams, laying floorboards, floor insulation

Step 4. Finishing work - nailing the skirting boards, leveling and, if necessary, sanding the boards. The skirting boards are nailed in the usual way with small nails approximately 30 mm long. The specific values ​​depend on the thickness of the skirting boards. The cuts in the corners must be done at an angle of 45 °; there are special devices for cuts. If a factory device is at hand, then it will not be difficult to make it yourself. That's all, the drain floor is ready for "use".

Do not be afraid that the drain floors are cold and you will get a runny nose in the steam room. The temperature in the steam room is about + 80 ° C, the floor heats up from this heat, and large drafts from small cracks will not appear.

Leakproof floors

It is a little more difficult to make them, but the comfort of being in the steam room increases. They differ from the flowing ones in that there are no gaps between the boards, but there is a slight slope for draining the water.

You need to make a slope to one of the walls of the steam room, it should be borne in mind that periodically the mesh will have to be cleaned. This means that access to the drain must be free. At the point of discharge, it is advisable to make a water receiver and immediately bring it outside the perimeter of the foundation, it is not difficult to do this, the water flows down in one place (unlike leaking floors).

As for the preparatory work on the arrangement of ventilation holes in the foundation and the arrangement of stacks, these works are the same as we described above, but in the future there are differences.

Step 1. Preparing the posts. The markings for the distance between the posts, the depth, the preparation of the pad and the preparation of the concrete mixture are the same. Further differences. The point is that the posts should be at different heights. The floor is slightly higher near one side than near the other. The slope should not be made large, two to three millimeters per meter of floor is enough. For example, if you have a steam room 4 meters long, then the difference in the height of the extreme posts should be within 8 ÷ 12 millimeters. It will not be possible to immediately pour concrete with such accuracy; after removing the formwork, it will have to be adjusted with mortar. For the initial marking, you will need a simple hydro level, make marks on the formwork of the extreme posts. Then everything is already familiar - pull the thread between them and level the surfaces.

Step 2. And there is a lot in common, only the beams and logs will be at an angle, you also need to check their position using a stretched thread. After installing the last lags, do not be too lazy to check again the correctness of their position.

Step 3. Planking. Immediately you need to prepare the drain grate and come up with a drain method. Use hoses or pipe sections of the appropriate diameters. Before laying, check the boards for parallelism of the edges, if the curvatures exceed 5 mm - trim them on a thickness gauge. For laying the boards, you need to have special devices for their tight attraction. There are two options. The first is to buy ready-made in the store, it is inexpensive and works quite efficiently. The second option is to prepare ordinary metal staples and wooden wedges of various sizes.

Nail the first board against the wall, fix the stops on two logs. We have already said that these can be staples or factory fixtures. The distance between the stops and the first board should be several centimeters greater than the width of the second board. You can fix the stops further, and adjust the distance with dummy boards - it's faster, but more difficult. Install the second board and use the wedges to pull it tightly against the first, the slight bend will even out. Secure the second board with any hardware. Everything, you have mastered the "main operation", continue to mount the entire floor in the same way.

Do not forget to put a drain grate in the place where the water flows out. It can be home-made from galvanized sheet iron or purchased, there is not much difference, both do an excellent job with their functions.

The floors in the dressing room

There are three options - ordinary planks, insulated and heated. The first ones are no different from the non-spill ones in the steam room, only they do not have a slope and, accordingly, no holes for draining water. Consider the two remaining options.

Insulated floors

The easiest option is to use polystyrene as insulation, although mineral wool can also be used in the dressing room. The posts, dimensions of beams, logs and boards are identical. Insulation installation technology has slight differences. Let's start with this operation.

Step 1. Rough floor. Insulation lays down to honey with a rough and clean floor. The subfloor is attached to the logs from below, made from scraps of boards, slabs, used plywood sheets or OSB boards. This is an "economical option", there is extra money - use new materials.

Step 2... Insulating materials are laid on the subfloor, make sure that there are no gaps between the individual sheets of insulation. If mineral wool is used, then you will have to make steam and hydro barriers, wool is very afraid of moisture, when wet, the thermal insulation properties deteriorate sharply. But that's not all. After getting wet, it dries poorly, wooden structures are in long-term contact with wet cotton wool. What happens to them in such conditions - there is no need to tell.

Video - Rough floor

Step 3. Finishing floor. We have already told you how to lay it down, now you already have construction experience, the work will go faster.

Electrically heated floors

Quite a complex design, requires careful attention and some knowledge not only in construction, but also in electrical engineering. Before getting started, there are a few things you need to know.

1. It is not advisable to use boards, laminate and other wooden coatings for heated floors. Firstly, they have a very low thermal conductivity, most of the thermal energy will heat the ground, and not the floor and the room. Secondly, the risks of cracks or cracking of the material significantly increase, even the use of boards with a relative humidity of 8% does not always save. The fact is that as long as you use and lay down purchased dry boards, they will absorb moisture. You can, of course, use artificial plastic boards, but is it worth the effort?
2. It is necessary to accurately determine the source of heat. With water heating, you need to maintain engineering networks from home or install a separate boiler in the bath. Both options are dubious from an economic point of view. The electric heating option remains. But here, too, problems arise - for efficiency, the power of the heating elements should be approximately 140 W per square meter of the room. These are quite large values, you need to make sure that the power lines are consistent with these indicators.
3. Electric heating requires the installation of a complex of electrical wiring. All work should be performed in strict compliance with the PUE. Do you have such knowledge?

If everything is fine, then you can start working directly. In our case, underfloor heating will be for a ceramic coating, this is the most effective option.

Stage Description

Step 1. Preparation of the base.	You need to level the site. The ideal option is to use foam concrete. With its help, the site is leveled, and thermal insulation of the heating elements from the ground is ensured - the efficiency of using heated floors is increased. But it is impossible to prepare foam concrete at home, special reagents are needed (this is still being solved) and a special unit (this is no longer being solved). We'll have to prepare ordinary concrete and cement-sand mixtures. The site should be leveled with concrete. To do this, first level the ground manually - the work will go faster, less concrete will be needed. Next, beacons are installed, you can buy them in a store, use even thin slats for these purposes, or make beacons from a solution. The third option is quite difficult, it requires skill and skill, it is better to use the first two. Beacons are installed under the level, try to make the base as even as possible and strictly in a horizontal plane. If horizontality is a little "naughty" - it does not matter, in the future you will have time to align. It is better to pour concrete over the entire area as quickly as possible, otherwise breaks will result. The concrete thickness is within 5 ÷ 8 cm, if heavy loads on the floor are expected - reinforce it with construction reinforcement of a periodic profile of Ø5 mm. You do not need to knit any mesh from the reinforcement, just lay it in the thickness of the concrete in rows at a distance of ≈ 30 ÷ 40 cm.Let it dry for at least a week, and preferably two. Lighthouses can not be removed, they will not interfere.
Step 2. Thermal insulation.	It is best to use high-strength foam with a thickness of up to ten centimeters. His physical strength indicators are quite suitable, and it is not difficult to work with him, and in terms of cost he satisfies the majority of developers. Lay the styrofoam in even and dense rows.
Step 3. Screed.	It must cover the foam and protect it from mechanical damage. For the screed, you need to use the so-called dry mortar. It is not completely dry, as you might think, it just has a lot less water than ordinary. Moisture is checked simply - you can squeeze it in your hand, moisture between the fingers should not seep, the lump should not crumble. Advantages of a dry mortar: due to its low density, it conducts heat poorly (additional thermal insulation), it is very quick and easy to work with it, and corresponds to the required parameters in terms of strength. Do the screed in the same way as for concrete, thickness 2 ÷ 3 centimeters.
Step 4. Laying heating elements.	There is nothing particularly complicated here, it is not worth taking time. Read the manufacturer's instructions and follow their recommendations.
Step 5. Laying ceramic tiles.	The tile can be laid directly on the heating elements, or you can make another screed with cement mortar, only not dry, but ordinary. The second option is preferable. Decide for yourself, the main thing is that the tile does not damage the electrical cables. The tiles are laid in the usual way. Here you already need to have at least some experience. If you have never done such work, you will have to learn on the go and suffer a little. Be prepared for what may not work the first time.
Step 5. Connection.	Manufacturers fully complete all protection and control devices, connect them according to the rules of the PUE, choose a place to install the automation.

Video - Screed

In conclusion, I would like to say a few words about the floors in the dressing room. Before proceeding with underfloor heating and underfloor heating, carefully weigh everything. These floors require skill, time and money, and the return on them is minimal. Any work should have logic, only in this case the efforts are justified. Think how long it takes to stand barefoot on a warm field for the insulation to trap the heat from the wood flooring, bring it back, and “warm” the feet? How long does it take to warm up the floors (and how much will it cost) just to undress / get dressed in a few minutes? Isn't it better or cheaper to use ordinary (or warm) slippers in the dressing room? And we described the technology of arranging warm floors in the dressing room only because there is a demand for such types.

The floor in the bath is made of tiles: step by step instructions

The tile is ideal for use as a floor covering for a sauna and is a serious competitor to a wooden floor. Its installation is within the power of any owner, subject to strict adherence to the installation technology. Let's talk about this in more detail. Among the disadvantages of the tile, it is worth noting its fragility. If it falls, it will break, so the floor in the bath from tiles with your own hands must be done carefully, with at least minimal experience. In Russian baths made of wood, tiles are used only in washing departments - there it is really necessary.

The choice of floor tiles in the bath

The appearance and ease of use of the coating depends on the choice of tiles. It goes on sale in the form of glazed and unglazed tiles. The first one takes place in the production of double firing, which increases its strength and endurance to temperature extremes.
When buying tiles for a bath, some criteria should be considered:

• The texture of the front side of the material should be rough to avoid falls on slippery surfaces.
• The base of the tile must contain a relief to ensure adhesion of the adhesive to the product and the prepared surface.
• For your own installation, buy rectangular tiles, only professionals will install octahedral tiles.
• The number of tiles for the floor is taken 10% more than its area, a margin is needed to trim tiles to the abutments.

Materials and tools for floor installation in a tile bath

Before laying the floor in a tile bath, it is necessary to purchase materials and prepare the tools that will be required for the work. Below is a list of everything you need:

• Ceramic tiles for floors;
• Plastic crosses to form seams between tiles;
• Waterproof glue for laying tiles in sanitary facilities;
• Suture polymer grout;
• Metal comb spatula;
• Standard metal spatula;
• Rubber spatula for sealing joints;
• Rubber mallet for upsetting tiles;
• A container for water and wetting the tiles before laying them;
• Tile cutting machine or "grinder";
• Construction level;
• Cord.

Preparation of the substrate before laying the tiles in the sauna on the floor

Before preparing the base for tiled floors, it is necessary to equip drainage systems and drainage of wastewater outside the building. The start of these works is planned at the stage of foundation construction. If there is sandy soil on the site, a drainage pit is dug under the washing room of the bath, which is partially filled with rubble or fragments of brick.
To remove the unpleasant odor from the drainage pit, which can enter the room through the floor drain, air ducts are laid out through the body of the foundation. Embedded sleeves for them must be provided before the concrete is poured into the formwork.
With dense soil, for a similar purpose, a pit is made with a drainage system in the form of a sewer pipe, which is discharged into a prepared gutter. The walls of the pit are concreted, and the pipe is insulated against freezing in the ground during severe frosts. After installing the sewage system, we perform a tile floor in the bathhouse with insulation made of porous material. For this, it is necessary to level and compact the soil under the washing compartment.
It is stacked on it in turn:

1. Sand pillow 15 cm thick;
2. A five-centimeter layer of foam or mineral wool;
3. Overlap roofing material waterproofing;
4. Reinforcing metal mesh 100x100 mm.

A concrete screed is poured from above, and the base for the floor is ready.

Laying tiles in the bath on the floor

The process of floor cladding in a bath room is distinguished by the use of moisture-resistant materials and the creation of the necessary slopes in the coating for water drainage. These nuances should be taken into account when working in "wet" rooms. The creation of floor slopes will be discussed below. In the meantime, let's dwell on the technology of laying tile material.

Floor tile laying technology

The features of laying tiles on the floor in the bath are as follows:

• The concrete base prepared for facing must be level, dry and clean. Before work, the tile should be soaked in water for a few minutes. After that, the material will not absorb moisture from the binder solution, and this will ensure the strength of the laid coating after the adhesive has polymerized.
• The cladding starts from the most visible corner of the room. To determine this, just stand on the threshold of a doorway and look around the room.
• Then, using a mixer, a glue mixture or cement-sand mortar is prepared according to the recommendations indicated on their packages.
• An adhesive mixture is applied to the base of each tile using a notched trowel, the texture of which will have grooves over the entire surface as a result of the use of such a tool. This allows for increased adhesion between the tiles and the subfloor. The consumption of the mixture for 1 m2 of flooring is indicated on the package.
• Then the tile with the mortar is pressed against the concrete surface and, if necessary, is settled with a rubber mallet.
• Excess mixture is removed with a spatula and used in further work.
• The seams between the tiles are taken equal to 2-5 mm. To keep them even, special crosses made of plastic are used. They are installed vertically near the corners of adjacent tiles and allow keeping the same distance between piece materials. Smooth laying and horizontal rows are constantly monitored using a level rail.
• The mortar that gets on the face of the tile should be removed immediately with a damp sponge. After it dries, this is extremely difficult to do.

8-12 hours after the end of the laying of the coating, the grouting of the tile joints is carried out. It ensures their reliability and waterproofing of the entire coating. For grouting, you need to remove all plastic crosses and use a rubber spatula to fill the joints between the tiles with an adhesive mixture. To give the joints a certain color, the corresponding pigment is added to the grouting solution. The color of the joints should be in harmony with the shade of the face of the tile. The remnants of the grout compound are immediately removed from the finished surface with a damp sponge.

Organization of the slope of the tiled floor in the bath

Indoor puddles are not attractive. Therefore, the floor from the tiles in the washing bath is arranged with a slope of 1: 100, which is directed to the drain of the sewer drain. The ladder can be located in the center of the room, near the entrance, in its corner or in the receiving tray.
In the latter case, the task is very simple. The edge of the floor opposite to the tray must be made slightly higher, using lighthouse cords between the points of the height difference of the future coating when laying the tiles. In other cases, it is required to install the floor profile "envelope".
This is done in this way:

• You need to calculate the difference in height between the top of the ladder and the cover along the contour of the room.
• Make appropriate elevation marks at the corners of the room.
• Connect the cords to the opposite sides of the drain hole with cords.
• Begin laying the tiles, taking into account the fact that its side parallel to the ladder lies horizontally, and the perpendicular side repeats the slope set by the cord.
• To guide the slope of tiles located far from the cord, you can use additional cords stretched between the corner "beacons".

Features of laying tiles on the floor in the bath are shown in the video:

That's all the "science" for laying tiles on the floor in a bath. Business is not difficult, but troublesome. We hope that our material will help you to do this job correctly. Author: editors TutKnow.ru

The device of the floor in the bath in the washing room is carried out with sufficient attention, since it is constantly exposed to moisture, therefore, when arranging it, some technological features are taken into account that will contribute to the smooth drainage of water, quick drying and resistance to temperature changes.

Failure to comply with the prescribed rules and regulations will lead to deformation of the floor and its failure.

Wooden floor device

The leaking floor is the easiest to install, but it is used only in the warm season.

A leaking floor has the simplest design feature. From the outside, it is a wooden flooring with gaps of a certain size between the boards.

Replacement of such a flooring is possible at any time. The floors are removed for drying. The main disadvantage is that such floors are not insulated and are designed for use only in the warm season.

Leaking floor device

A sand-crushed stone pillow is used as a floor base. Water spills directly onto the ground under the pouring floor. In this case, the surface is covered with a waterproofing material. The water from the washroom is discharged into the sewer pit.

The non-leaking floor has several layers

Arrangement of a non-leaking floor is very difficult, since by its design it does not have removable structures. The floor surface itself consists of a multi-layer monolithic wooden structure.

A subfloor is installed between the logs, which should be protected from moisture by using a waterproofing film or roofing material. Between the lags, a mineral wool, foam or polystyrene insulation is installed and covered with another layer of waterproofing.

The topcoat is a tongue-and-groove board. As a disadvantage, it can be noted: if you need to replace the floor, you will have to disassemble the entire wooden structure.

The choice of the design features of the wooden floor for the washing room of the bath depends on the characteristics of the foundation and walls of the building.

Concrete floor device

When arranging concrete floors, be sure to lay a layer of waterproofing

In the washing section of a bath, concrete floors are often used, as the most reliable, durable and moisture resistant. Depending on the design of the building, the baths can be equipped in three ways:

• over a wooden floor;
• concreting the surface of the earthen floor;
• over the concrete floor.

To install a concrete floor over a wooden floor, it is covered with polyethylene with an overlap on the walls. In this case, it is desirable to use a one-piece waterproofing sheet. If several canvases are used, then adjacent pieces should overlap with each other, and the seams should be glued.

To prevent the film from breaking through, it is covered with a thin layer of fine sand, on top of which a reinforced mesh is placed on supports. When pouring a cement screed, its horizontalness can be checked with a long rule.

The easiest and much more correct way to eliminate the unevenness of the screed with the help of a self-leveling liquid, which will serve as an additional waterproofing layer.

Dense polyethylene is quite suitable for waterproofing

Before concreting the subgrade, it is necessary to compact the soil and level it with a layer of sand 50 mm thick. It is imperative to lay the waterproofing film in order.

For it, you can use dense black plastic wrap or bitumen-based material. If the washing room of the bath is small, it is better to use a special reinforcing fiber for reinforcement, on top of which a concrete screed is poured.

Provided that the screed will be made on a prepared concrete floor, it is advisable to lay expanded clay concrete on the waterproofing layer, which has not only sufficient strength, but also good thermal insulation properties.

The table shows the calculation of proportions for small volumes of concrete mix:

Concrete	Cement	Sand	Crushed stone	Water
Concrete grade		Consumption in kg per 1 cbm
M100	230	850	1200	140
M200	305	825	1170	140
M300	425	735	1080	140
M400	483	695	1080	140

When performing concrete work, pouring mortar begins from the far corner of the washing compartment. The concrete surface of the floor is laid out with ceramic tiles. When choosing it, you should give preference to anti-slip tiles.

Choosing floor tiles

Use tiles with anti-slip effect

The bath floor, finished with ceramic tiles, is considered the second most popular after the wooden floor. The main advantage of the tile is its resistance to water and steam.

However, not every type of it can be used in the washroom. Since the bath can be operated both constantly and with some temporary interruptions, the tiles must be durable, frost-resistant, moisture-proof and anti-slip.

These are the characteristics of porcelain stoneware. Its advantages in use in such a room are undeniable, since, in addition to the characteristics that were indicated earlier, it differs in imitation of marble coating and other natural finishing materials, which are not available to everyone in the price category.

For clarity, the table contains data on the technical properties of tiles:

It should be borne in mind that tile adhesive and grout must also meet the requirements for heat and water resistance.

The choice of tiles for finishing the floor in the washing area depends on the desires and capabilities of the owner of the bath.

Warm floor in the washroom

On top of the water circuit, it will be possible to lay tiles on the screed

For significant savings on heating the bath, it is recommended to install a floor heating system. For the washing compartment, you can use any of the known types of such heating: electric or water.

Any of these types is installed under the floor tiles. However, the most effective will be water heating, the water in the pipes of which will be heated due to the operation of the heating bath stove. At the same time, water will be simultaneously heated both for heating and for washing needs.

As floor heating pipes, you can use both a metal-plastic pipe for hot water supply and polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 16-20 mm. According to their characteristics, the pipes must withstand a water pressure of 10 bar, as well as a carrier temperature of 95 degrees. One circuit of pipes should not exceed a length of 60 m, water into which should come from the boiler through a distribution manifold installed between the washing room and the rest room. For information on how to equip a warm floor in a bath, see this video: