Dracaena leaves dropped what to do. Why do dracaena leaves fall and how to save it. Reasons why leaves fall and fall

A beginner florist does not have enough experience and flair for growing indoor plants; he acquires it most often by trial and error. However, it is possible to avoid trouble by using some basic rules when choosing a plant and getting to know it for the first time.

When buying a dracaena or other plant, find out its full Latin name. When purchasing a new unknown plant, many are not interested in its agricultural technology, features, do not know the correct botanical name. Knowing the correct botanical name, one can determine the specific features of a particular species.
Excessive shading or bright light can harm your dracaena. First of all, you should choose the right place for the plant. To do this, find out how the plant relates to sunlight. In addition, which is very important, a plant that tolerates sunlight well must be accustomed to it gradually. This is due to the peculiarities of keeping the plant before purchase - in stores they rarely observe the light regime necessary for a particular species.
For most species of dracaena plants, drafts are detrimental. When choosing a plant, consider this fact.
Overflow or excessive dryness can be extremely harmful to the plant. Irrigation is of great importance. You should always know what the needs of the plant you have bought are. In addition, watering should be carried out carefully, negligence leads to unpleasant consequences. For a number of species, a necessary condition for a healthy existence in an apartment is constant daily spraying.
Be careful when feeding the plant. It is very important to understand how much the application of nutrients is necessary for the plant. Mistakes in feeding can lead to plant disease or death.
Consider the individual needs of the plant for the soil mixture. When transplanting, the main mistake is the wrong soil mixture. Sometimes a transplant is started unnecessarily, at the wrong time. Often too large dishes are taken, which leads to acidification of the soil. Most plants need good drainage, which some do not pay attention to. Plants brought from Holland often do not undergo proper control by the relevant authorities, as a result of which they can carry various dangerous pests on themselves or in the substrate. Therefore, it is advisable to transplant the purchased plant with the replacement of the substrate and a careful examination of the roots.
Need to cut? Cut it off! Lovers - flower growers often feel sorry for their plant, they are afraid to cut it. Pruning is necessary for a number of crops; if it is not carried out, the plant grows, stops growing and blooming.

Symptoms of maintenance errors and possible causes.

Upper leaves retain elasticity but turn yellow: Caused, as a rule, by high calcium content in the soil - in those plants that cannot tolerate lime, or by hard water for irrigation.

Leaves lose their luster and look lifeless: The likely cause is too much light; another cause may be the red spider mite. Even healthy green leaves can look faded if left unwashed.

Leaf discoloration (chlorosis): Leaves become discolored and become yellowish in color, the veins remain green. This usually happens with a lack of iron and magnesium. Both elements are needed to maintain the green color of the sheet. Watering with water containing a lot of calcium also leads to such a deficiency: calcium binds iron in the soil. You can fix this by starting to use iron chelates or brown algae extract and irrigate with softened water.

Leaves discolor until they become transparent: This is due to a lack of nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary, in particular, for the formation of green leaves. To restore the green color of the leaves, top dressing with a liquid fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is necessary. A longer-term support may be horn meal, which must be carefully mixed into the top layer of the earth.

Drooping Leaves: Common causes are either drying out of the soil (due to insufficient watering) or waterlogged soil (due to poor drainage or too much watering). Other reasons may be too much light (especially if the leaves are drooping regularly in the middle of the day), dry air, too high an air temperature, a cramped pot, or pests.

Leaves curl and fall: The edges of the leaves curl and sometimes become dry. Rolling leaves in plants is a measure of self-defense, because due to this, the surface of the leaf is reduced and less water evaporates from it. This happens when the plant is in a too warm place or receives little water. You need to water the plant until the soil is completely saturated, or dip in water and hold. Choose a cooler place for him.

Leaves drop suddenly: Rapid leaf drop without a long period of wilting or discoloration preceded usually indicates a shock to the plant. It can be caused by a significant temperature difference (both cold and cold), a sharp increase in daylight intensity, or a strong cold draft. Sudden dropping of leaves, especially in tree-like plants, can also be caused by the drying of the soil at the roots.

Leaves turn yellow and fall off: The lower leaves of an adult plant naturally turn yellow over time and then fall off. When this happens to several leaves at the same time, the likely cause is waterlogging of the soil, lack of nitrogen, too dark a place or cold drafts. First of all, you need to drastically reduce watering or completely replace the land and water less often. Feed regularly with appropriate fertilizers. Move the plant to a brighter place.

The lower leaves dry up and fall off: Three possible causes are lack of light, too high air temperature and insufficient watering. The plant should be rearranged to a brighter place. Soak the earthen ball completely with water by immersing the pot in water for several hours. Move from a warm place to cooler conditions.

Leaves fall off on new plants: It is natural for plants that have been transplanted, just bought, or moved from one room to another to lose one or two of the bottom leaves. The shock of a change of scenery can be alleviated by transplanting the plant into only a slightly larger pot than the previous one, covering it when moving it home from the store, and transferring it from a poorly lit place to bright light with a few days in partial shade in between.

Dots or Spots on Leaves: If the dots or spots are dry and brown, the most likely cause is lack of water. If the affected areas are soft, dark brown in color, this is most likely due to waterlogging of the soil. If the dots or spots are white or yellowish, the infection is caused by cold water application, sudden temperature drops, water on the leaves, aerosol infestation, or disease/pest. If the spots are reddish, silvery-white or brownish, the plant has unexpectedly been exposed to direct sunlight. If the affected areas are wet and look like a blister, or dry in the form of dents, the cause is a disease. Some pests can also cause leaf spotting.

Brown tips or leaf margins: The most likely cause is drying of the leaf tips to dry air. Another possible cause is physical damage when the tips of the leaves are often touched or pressed against glass or a wall. If the edges of the leaves are yellow or brown, this can be caused by several reasons: waterlogging of the soil, insufficient watering, lack of light, too much light, too low air temperature, an excess of minerals, dry air or drafts. Other symptoms will help determine the true cause.

Small pale leaves and elongated stems: This happens in winter and early spring after the plant has been kept in low light conditions with too high temperatures and excessive watering. If possible, the ugly part of the plant is removed. If such symptoms appear during the growth period, then the reasons may be a lack of minerals or too poor lighting.

Leaves and stems rot: This is caused by a disease that occurs under poor conditions. Often the cause of the disease is waterlogging of the soil in winter or the ingress of water on the leaves, especially if it remains overnight.

Torn edges and holes in leaves: Most often caused by physical damage from pets or people (sometimes even a simple touch on an unopened leaf can damage it) or when attacked by pests.

Variegated leaves turn solid green: This is simply due to the lack of light. Remove all offshoots with the same color leaves (if possible) and move the plant pot closer to the window.

Plant grows slowly or not at all: During the winter this is normal for all plants, so don't force it to grow. In summer, the most likely cause of growth retardation is a lack of minerals, waterlogging of the soil, or insufficient lighting. If these reasons are excluded, then, perhaps, the pot is cramped for the plant.

The plant does not bloom: Several reasons can lead to the fact that an adult plant does not bloom at the right time. The most likely causes are related to lighting - this is a lack of light or an unsuitable length of daylight hours for the plant. Other reasons may be an overabundance of minerals, dry air, thrips, or transplanting (some plants bloom only in a cramped pot).

Dropping buds: The causes of dropping leaves can also cause dropping of buds or flowers. This is most often caused by dry air, insufficient watering, lack of light, moving the pot with the plant to another place and pest damage.

Flowers fade quickly: As a rule, this is the result of insufficient watering, dry air, lack of light or too high air temperature.

Green coating on a ceramic pot: A sure sign of watering problems - occurs when the soil is waterlogged or poor drainage.

White crust on a ceramic pot: There are two probable reasons - the use of too hard water for irrigation or an excess of minerals.

Typical dracaena diseases and their effective treatment with explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.

Why do dracaena drop leaves? Causes may be as follows: the plant goes through an acclimatization period after purchase, a transplant was carried out with the replacement of soil, which violated the integrity of the root system, improper watering.

Only a purchased plant must necessarily undergo a period of acclimatization under new conditions. Dracaena is no exception. The level of illumination in the new room, humidity and air temperature - all this can affect the well-being of the flower. There is no need to worry if the dracaena has just been bought and it has lowered its leaves. For prevention, you need to examine the plant carefully. If there are no pests on it, the root system is in order, the trunk does not rot - there is no need to take drastic actions. Experts recommend not replanting a flower within 1 month after purchase. After this period, perform a transplant by transshipment and strictly follow the rules for caring for dracaena. As practice shows, all dracaena drop leaves after purchase. This is normal. In a healthy flower, only the crown, that is, young leaves, will look up.

Dracaena dropped leaves immediately after transplanting. This indicates a violation of the root system of the flower, namely, very thin roots that form a cobweb at the bottom of the pot. They are involved in the nutrition of the plant and provide the plant with water. It is not recommended to transplant dracaena in a complete replacement of the soil. It is more suitable for transfer to a larger pot. Thus, the root system will not be injured.

However, if the transplant has already been carried out and the dracaena has lowered its leaves, while its lower leaves can turn yellow intensely, you need to do the following: spray the flower with cyclone (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water) and place it under a greenhouse or a spacious cap. Leaves should not touch the walls of the greenhouse. At the same time, watering is significantly reduced. Before the next watering, the earth in the pot should dry out completely (you can do it once every 2-3 weeks). Spraying a flower, on the contrary, is necessary very often with ordinary water in order to maintain high humidity under the greenhouse. The number of sprays depends on the room temperature. The colder the less. Zikron can be used only once a week. At the first watering, the cyclone must be added to the water for irrigation. This stimulates the growth of the root system. After a transplant with a violation of the root system, the dracaena lacks moisture. In this case, intensive watering will lead to decay of the root system. The plant will replenish the lack of moisture through the crown. That is why the greenhouse maintains high humidity.

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Reason: Wrong watering regime. In the first case, the amount of moisture is simply not enough for the plant to maintain normal leaf turgor. In the second, there is too much moisture, which led to decay of the root system. Through damaged roots, the plant also does not receive enough moisture. Increasing the amount of watering will not solve the problem.

If the dracaena lowered its leaves from a lack of moisture, what should I do? It is necessary to place the flower under the greenhouse and carry out regular spraying. It is impossible to sharply increase the amount of watering, as this will harm the roots. Keep the plant under the greenhouse for 3-5 days. Water the flower should be plentiful, but only after the earthen coma has completely dried. Be sure to remove water from the pan.

Dracaena gets an excess of moisture. As a result, the root system cannot cope with an excess of fluid and begins to rot. Damaged roots no longer absorb moisture from the ground, and therefore the dracaena lowers its leaves. What to do? First of all, normalize watering. Next, you need to carefully, without violating the integrity of the root system, remove the dracaena from the pot by the trunk. Check out the roots. If the root system is light yellow or white, but not brown, it is healthy. The plant is returned back to the pot and watering is reduced. Watering should be plentiful, but only after the soil in the pot has completely dried out.

If the dracaena has lowered its leaves and its roots are worn out, flabby and have an unhealthy hue, this indicates rotting. Damaged roots are removed. The plant is transplanted into a new, special, slightly moist soil. Dracaena is placed under a greenhouse. Watering is minimized, and spraying, on the contrary, is increased. It is possible to add zikron to water for spraying. The plant is removed from the greenhouse when it begins to expel new leaves.

Why do the tips of the leaves dry on dracaena? Causes: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime violated, heavy soil.

Dracaena is a light-loving flower, and therefore very often its leaf tips turn yellow from lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown indoors, the tips of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination with an energy-saving lamp for up to 12 hours. The flower should be placed at the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then she is sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows are not suitable for a flower.

You have noticed that the dracaena looks bad, the tips of its leaves dry. What to do in such cases? You need to pay attention to the irrigation regime. Perhaps the plant was waterlogged. As a result, its root system rots, the leaves do not receive enough moisture through diseased roots, and therefore their tips dry. Dracaena is watered only after the soil in the pot has completely dried. Watering in this case is carried out abundantly, so that the water goes into the pan through the drainage holes. The water from the pan is immediately removed. Otherwise, the bottom of the pot will not dry out, the roots will rot. You can not put a pot with dracaena on wet expanded clay. To check the condition of the root system, the plant is carefully removed from the pot. Healthy roots will be light. Regular spraying will help the flower. can be added to the water for spraying 1 time per week tsikron or epin.

Dracaena dry the tips of the leaves if the room has low humidity. To do this, carry out frequent spraying of the flower, put a humidifier next to it. It is impossible to put a plant near heating devices during the heating season.

Dracaena does not grow, new leaves grow deformed, stems become thinner and stretched. Reason: the plant does not have enough sunlight. Perhaps the flower is located in the depths of the room, where light does not penetrate, or the length of daylight hours is reduced due to the onset of autumn-winter. Experts recommend placing dracaena near windows on the south or southeast side of the house, but with obligatory shading from the midday heat. To scatter direct sunlight on the window, it is enough to hang a transparent curtain. In autumn and winter, it is recommended to highlight the dracaena with an artificial light lamp (fluorescent or special phytolamp). In total, the length of daylight hours for the successful development of leaflets should be 12-14 hours.

With the onset of autumn-winter (from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dormant period for the dracaena, the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, the temperature of the plant content is reduced (to +17 ... +18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and fertilizing are not carried out. During the dormant period, the dracaena slows down its growth, and therefore, in low light conditions, it does not expel new, deformed leaves, its branches do not become thinner.

Among indoor plants, dracaena, which is sometimes called the "false palm", is very popular with flower growers.

Attracts the deep, rich color of its leaves, the splendor of the crown.

However, if the plant begins to “fall leaves”, then everything is for real, without “false modesty” - one bare stem can remain from its former beauty in a matter of days.

To prevent this from happening (although the reasons can sometimes be objective, and they cannot be avoided), you must carefully monitor the condition of the green pet and, if you feel something is wrong, take action.

The main problems with dracaena, like most cultures whose homeland is the tropics, are associated with acclimatization. In an ordinary city apartment the plant often lacks heat and humidity. Both that and the other dracaena need to be given additionally, and to do it correctly, without going to extremes.

If you find that the dracaena has a soft trunk and leaves are falling, the bark has become wrinkled, then you overdid it with watering.

If the leaves begin to curl or turn into a tube (this may mean that the plant has died) - therefore, you could not provide the green pet with a comfortable temperature, did not save it from sudden transitions from one microclimate to another.

Diseases and pests also create problems for the flower, which must be learned to recognize in a timely manner.

Of all varieties, the threat of “baldness” most often occurs in Marginata, in other varieties this problem is less pronounced. The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall may be the following:

natural aging (the leaves of this culture live from 2 to 3 years);
water scarcity;
cold air, drafts.

To help the plant, it is important to figure out which of the reasons is ruining your flower.

If it's about aging, then this process is objective and unregulated. Fortunately, nature provided that at the same time all the leaves of the dracaena will not leave - those of them whose deadline has come will begin to turn yellow, then curl, blacken and fall off. After some time, new, healthy leaves will appear in the vacated places.

In the event of a lack of water, mass leaf fall also does not occur.

The difference is that the aged leaves dry out completely, and those that have fallen due to the scarcity of watering still partially retain their vitality.

If the florist overdid it with watering, the plant begins lose green leaves- this is due to the fact that the roots rotted in the waterlogged soil and the plant dies.

Temperature discomfort (especially cold, draft) is expressed in the loss of green foliage by the plant.

If yellowness appears on the leaves, like gray hair in a person, for natural reasons, it may not capture the whole leaf, but its tips. In this case, experts recommend pruning, removing only the yellowed part and leaving a healthy. This will preserve the decorative culture.

Often the problem occurs due to the fact that the plant does not have enough sun. Most varieties have enough soft, diffused light, and even a short winter day does not adversely affect them. However, in some cases, dracaena cannot do without illumination and informs the owner of this by the yellowness of its leaves.

A similar reaction occurs due to excessive watering. And if the dracaena leaves have drooped and turned yellow, this may be due to a lack of nutrients in the soil. It is especially dangerous to keep a flower on a starvation diet during its active growth - from April to the end of August.

CAREFULLY: if water regularly remains in the axils of the leaves after watering and spraying, this can cause a color change from green to yellow.

This trouble can happen even with young foliage if the flower grows in the same pot, without changing the soil, for 3-4 years.

Salts accumulate in it, due to which the plant is not able to fully absorb nutrients, even if the owner regularly feeds his pet.

From salinity, the suction roots die - the main conductor of nutrients into the flower's body.

Due to malnutrition, the tips of old leaves also dry out. In addition, the problem may lie in the structure of the soil - if it is clayey, heavy, poorly permeable to water.

ATTENTION: the tips of the leaves sometimes begin to dry due to oversaturation of the soil with fluorine. This element is part of fertilizers for tropical crops, which should be used exactly according to the instructions so as not to harm the flower.

Never reassure yourself with the phrase that “there are spots in the sun”: spots on dracaena leaves pose a threat to flower health and most often appear due to insufficient care for the plant, and their color helps to determine the essence of the problem. Here's what they're talking about:

If the trunk of the dracaena wrinkled, the leaves began to fall off, there is a high probability of mistakes that the owner made, most likely due to inexperience. The main thing is to have time to correct them in time.

Among the most common mistakes:

incorrect, too generous watering (in fact, the soil in the pot should dry out between waterings, control its condition by sticking a thin wooden stick into the ground);
high dryness of the air (remove the flower away from heaters);
insufficient illumination (the plant must be provided with additional illumination);
exposure to cold air (frozen leaves will be helped by “washing” with warm water);
lack of nutrients (buy a fertilizer in the form of a stick in a flower shop and stick it in the soil - your pet will regularly receive top dressing in the amount it needs).

ATTENTION: if the leaves turn yellow after an unsuccessful transplant, help the flower recover by spraying the soil with Epin.

Experts (in order to prevent various diseases) recommend add potassium and phosphorus to fertilizers. Unfortunately, this is not enough to avoid diseases completely.

Dracaena diseases can be:

Pests that infect dracaena can be in the soil or get on it from neighboring, already infected, plants. Signs of ill health are cobwebs, specks, sticky plaque. Among the pests:

This video talks about another dracaena pest and how to deal with it:

How to reanimate the dracaena if the trunk is fragile, the bark wrinkles, and the leaves begin to rot? Would need "surgical intervention" in the form of cuttings: cut off the top of the dracaena and either immediately root it in the ground, or put it in a container of water so that the roots appear. This usually takes 2 months.

If the poor condition of the dracaena is associated with dry air, bring the pet back to life a warm shower will help. To prevent water from flooding the roots, put the pot in a plastic bag and pull its edges around the trunk.

If the cutting (and subsequently a full-fledged plant) stands in water for too long, its trunk may turn yellow. This is because the aquatic environment contributes to the activation of bacteria, and the changed color of the trunk is evidence that the plant may die. You can avoid such a development of events by urgently transplanting the dracaena into a pot of earth.

A plant affected by cold air will be saved by a few sprays of warm water. and placing the pot in a draft-free place. In cases where the temperature dropped below 15 degrees Celsius, there is a great danger that the roots have suffered. If the check shows that this is how it happened and the roots began to rot, they are removed and the dracaena is transplanted into a new pot. In cases where there are practically no healthy roots left, the top of the flower is cut off and rooted.
What to do with a broken dracaena

The broken lignified part of the stem is quite easy to root. To do this, the break point must be cut with a sharp knife (the cut must be horizontal), hold it in the air for a while so that it dries up, and lower it into a container of water, where an activated carbon tablet is added (it will protect the future plant from decay).

The remaining part of the stem in the pot can also be saved. The fracture site is carefully trimmed and filled with wax. After a short time, shoots will appear on the sides of the stem.

If not a lignified, but a green shoot is broken, it is recommended to root it in moss or sand. In order for the roots to form faster, the tip of the shoot is treated in the Kornevin preparation, and then artificial heating is organized (the best temperature is 25 degrees).

ADVICE: if the cutting chosen for rooting is very small, it is stuck into the ground and covered with a glass jar, providing a greenhouse effect.

Marginata and Bamboo of Happiness are considered the most problematic species of dracaena, but other species of this plant are also susceptible to various diseases. The causes of dracaena malaise can be very different.

Moisture

The first reason is rightly considered low humidity in the room. A flower of this species is considered to be a southern plant adapted to a tropical climate, and the humidity in the air for it should be at least 60-70%. In apartments, the humidity is usually lower, especially in winter, hot batteries and heaters dry and heat it, the humidity usually drops to 20%, and this is bad for plants. Therefore, flower growers are advised to further humidify the air, regularly spray the room in which the plants are located, you can also buy a special humidifier or simply place a vessel with water near the batteries, the water will evaporate and increase humidity.

However, there are other reasons for such dracaena ailments. Poor or improper watering can also lead to a flower in poor condition. Remember that this flower should only be watered when the soil in its pot is dry. However, do not abuse this, water the dracaena about once a week, no more, and no less.

Draft

The third reason for the poor condition of the flower can be, oddly enough, a simple draft in your room. This can be especially dangerous in winter or late autumn, so you should not keep plants on the window. Dracaena can really get sick from exposure to cold, in fact, catch a cold.

In order to prevent such unpleasant consequences, just follow the basic rules for caring for dracaena, and it will always please your eye. Keep it in bright but diffused light, maintain the correct temperature, monitor the humidity in the house, do not overmoisten the potted soil.

Nutrition

If, with all your efforts, your dracaena still looks lethargic and unviable, try to analyze your care. Perhaps the reason for the flower's malaise lies in the fact that it lacks vitamins. Consult with experienced flower growers, try various fertilizers, top dressings for indoor plants.

Sluggish leaves and slow growth are a sign that the flower is cramped in a pot, so carefully transplant it into a spacious pot. It is desirable to do this in early spring, and use landless mixtures as soil.

It will lower the sheets of dracaena and after transplantation, it will hurt for at least a week, if after this period the former elasticity and brightness have not returned, you need to apply a growth stimulator.

Recently, my dracaena started dropping leaves and I, frankly, panicked. This has never happened to her, although she is not a very long roommate with me, so I decided that I needed to deal with this problem on my own, and then help others who encounter similar difficulties.

It turned out that there are many reasons why dracaena leaves fall, and all of them can be of a purely different nature. For example, one of the possible options why the dracaena began to show itself so unhealthy may be moisture. Humid air, unfavorable amount of watering, placement of other plants, moss nearby - all this can affect the life of a dracaena.

A decrease in air humidity also affects this plant. As it turned out, dracaena leaves often fall if it is located in close proximity to batteries or other devices that dry the air. The acceptable percentage of moisture in the room where the dracaena lives is 20%, so you don’t need to moisten the air a little if the dracaena is more, yellower and lowers, or vice versa, reduce the amount of moisture if the dracaena turns black, marks and also lowers leaves.

drafts plus humidity - another enemy of dracaena. It cannot be placed in intermediate rooms, in corridors, near windows, where there is a constant draft. Firstly, drafts immediately make the dracaena hurt, no matter what condition it is in, just like it happens to a person when he catches a cold. They just need to be eliminated or the dracaena moved to another place to neutralize this problem.

Using the wrong fertilizers, their insufficient, excessive amount is the next point, which affects the fact that the dracaena dropped its leaves. What to do in this case? Understand the amount of fertilizer you applied. An insufficient amount requires another, control, feeding, excessive - it will affect a little worse and there will be more work. You will have to replant the plant, changing the soil mixture, using a completely new pot at the same time, then from the base stage you will have to restore the health of the dracaena, maybe even update it a little with pruning so that it starts to recover more intensively and copes with a smaller crown volume than it would have had if it were in previous state.

Using the wrong fertilizers is much worse for dracaena than you might think - it's like drinking an alcoholic drink instead of life-giving water when you are strictly forbidden. Instantaneous effect: the dracaena begins to fade before our eyes, the leaves fall, the earth in the pot begins to react in a completely strange way, and the former, cheerful and beautiful dracaena dies in your hands. In this case, my advice is always the same, especially for beginner gardeners: always learn the rules for caring for dracaena. Pay attention to the fertilizer item, check which soil composition you purchased or made yourself at home - what is missing in it, and what elements are too much, and only then choose the appropriate fertilizer, but in no case take it at random or to your reasoning - in the case of feeding dracaena, there can be no improvisation.

Dracaena lowers the leaves, all sleeked up. How to raise them?

If everything is in order with the roots, then arrange a hot shower for the dracaena! So that the hand would endure the temperature of the water, the water should not be warm, nor boiling water, but hot enough. Cover the ground, wrap the pot in a bag so as not to flood and bathe the foliage for a minute, maybe a little less.

perhaps she is standing in a too sunny place, maybe she does not have enough water (then you need to sprinkle on the leaves). and the most likely option is it's time to transplant it into a larger pot ..

For mine, this happens when I forget to water or the sun hits the leaves.

And still need to be fed with liquid fertilizer for palm trees.

You need to water on time and fertilize at least once every 2 weeks.

It can stand in the sun, I also had this and the leaves turned yellow, put it in the shade and, behold, it feels great.

Try to change the location, if she likes it, she will raise the leaves within 5 minutes. It can also be lowered from abundant watering. So do not try to water better by spraying.

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Why did the dracaena drop its leaves?

Dracaena their drops the leaves seldom. If this happened, then the plant was poorly cared for, or they were not at home for a long time.

It must be taken into account that dracaena very sensitive to drafts. If you put it in a draft, then not only the leaves will fall.

Also, you can not put the flower in bright direct sunlight.

It is not necessary to water the plant.

Moderate watering will save the dracaena from root rot.

More often the plant should be sprayed. This dracaena loves, and the leaves will stand like ears in a hare in the cold.

The land in which the dracaena is transplanted or planted should not be heavy. It must be well oxygenated. It is possible, and indeed necessary, to make drainage on 1/3 of the vase.

The soil needs to be loosened more often.

Dracaena will live longer.

Although the dracaena is an unpretentious indoor plant, in order for it to be beautiful and lush (the leaves look up), you need to properly care for it. The first signs that the dracaena lacks care are drooping leaves, the leaves turn yellow and fall off too often.

Dracaena does not like being watered too often. The earth ball should dry out before the next watering. Young plants need to be repotted every year and at the same time increase the size of the pot by 1-2 fingers so that the roots are not crowded.

Perhaps the cause of drooping leaves is a lack of nutrients. It is necessary to feed the plant at least once a month (or once every 2 weeks). I use liquid vermicompost for top dressing.

Dracaena also loves the presence of oxygen at the roots. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically loosen the soil on the surface.

In the summer, spraying has a beneficial effect, but only this should be done in the evening, when the sun is not so strong (if you have a plant on the balcony).

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Dracaena - home care

Dracaena is a very popular indoor plant with a large species and varietal diversity. There are varieties that grow only in the wild, there are species that can only survive in greenhouse conditions, and there are indoor options that are unpretentious and do not require special attention. In general, the most common indoor dracaena requires the most minimal care.

Sometimes people who are prone to superstitions may wonder if it is possible to keep dracaena at home, look for signs related to its indoor content. Usually the harm of dracaena is far-fetched and is nothing more than a prejudice. There are no restrictions on its content, except for the most obvious ones - the presence of allergies in one of the household members. In all other respects, this flower will only benefit.

Dracaena is a flower with longevity. Its life expectancy with indoor cultivation can be either five or fifteen years, and depends on the quality of care. How to care for dracaena at home so that she feels good and lives as long as possible? Follow these simple guidelines.

Lighting

Dracaena is a rather photophilous plant, so you can place it on the eastern and western windowsills. The south side is also acceptable, but try to keep the plant out of direct sunlight. In the midst of a summer afternoon, it is better to clean it in partial shade. If possible, provide the plant with diffused light - this will be the most ideal option.

If the lighting is insufficient, the leaves of the dracaena will begin to turn pale. A deep shadow will have a completely detrimental effect: the leaves will quickly fade and die.

If the lighting is artificial, then this is also suitable for the plant, it is quite capable of growing and developing well.

Temperature

The plant prefers a moderate temperature regime in summer and a cooler one in winter, but does not tolerate cold well. Choose a warm outdoor spot for him in the summer - an east- or west-facing balcony is perfect. Be aware of the danger of direct sunlight. In spring and summer, the optimum temperature is 20-25 degrees. In winter, the dracaena is suitable for a temperature regime of 12-15 degrees, but not lower, otherwise the plant will freeze and die quickly. Also, dracaena should be protected from drafts and sudden changes in temperature.

Watering and humidity

The plant is quite moisture-loving, so watering should be plentiful, but systematic. It is always better to dry the plant slightly than to flood and rot it.

The intensity of watering depends on the location of the flower, the volume of the pot, the composition of the soil and the season. In summer, watering the dracaena must be provided at least a couple of times a week, while daily spraying with water at a temperature a couple of degrees higher than room temperature.

In winter, when the air temperature drops to 12-15 degrees, watering should be reduced to once a week. Dracaena "falls asleep" during this period. An exception is the case when it is located close to the heating battery. In this case, neither watering should be reduced, nor the number of sprayings, since dracaena should be watered frequently and plentifully at high air temperatures.

Regardless of the time of year, water should not be allowed to stagnate in a pot - the plant does not tolerate such an attitude. But the soil should not be allowed to dry out much even in winter. As soon as the surface layer of the soil dries up to three or better even two centimeters (no more), then it's time to water the flower. Before watering, loosen the surface layer of the soil, this will improve its breathability.

Spray the leaves both from the inside and outside, but always make sure that water does not accumulate, does not stagnate at the junction of the leaf with the stem - this can cause decay. Periodically, you can wipe the dracaena with a damp cloth, from time to time arrange a full-fledged warm shower, which will wash all the dust and dirt accumulated on the leaves, and also refresh the plant.

It is better to use filtered water for irrigation, but if this is not possible, then tap water is defended for at least twelve hours, for better purification it should also be boiled.

During the period of intensive growth (that is, from the beginning of April to the beginning of September), the dracaena is fed with fertilizers. This is done using special mineral supplements, their frequency is usually indicated in the instructions for use. Usually it's once every couple of weeks. Fertilizers must be used specialized, complex, which are sold in flower shops and are intended for indoor plants. Variegated varieties are best fed with special fertilizers designed specifically for variegated plants.

Timely transplantation is another guarantee of the longevity of your indoor dracaena. Since this plant has a strongly growing root system, it quickly becomes cramped in a pot. A plant that has just been brought home from the store must also always be moved to a new pot, but it is recommended not to do this immediately, but a month after the purchase.

You can roughly calculate whether a dracaena needs a transplant using the following parameters: for example, if a plant is about half a meter high, then it needs a pot of at least 20 cm in diameter. By comparing this proportion, you will determine whether it is time for the plant to move to a new container. You can also proceed from approximate data that transplantation should be done every two or three years - it is during this time that the roots have time to grow well. But it is better not to proceed from generalized data, but to consider each case and each variety separately, since the dracaena needs to be transplanted on time, preventing excessive root growth.

"Moving" is better to start in the spring, during the period of the most intensive growth, so the plant will take root better. When transplanting, try not to damage the root system of the plant. Prepare the drainage system in advance: pour, for example, expanded clay or pebbles, on the bottom of the pot. The drainage system means a lot to dracaena, as its root system is superficial.

The ideal transplanting scheme, with good care and rapid growth, involves repotting every year into a pot that is not much larger than the old one. You can’t take a pot for dracaena “for growth”, there is a risk that this will lead to the death of the plant. But a fairly mature dracaena should not be replanted so often, in which case it will be enough just to periodically replace the surface layer of the soil with fresh soil containing a lot of nutrients.

The soil for dracaena can be bought ready-made, or you can mix it yourself. Usually, for this, turf and leaf soil are mixed in equal parts with peat, sand and humus.

This procedure is rather decorative, since cutting the dracaena for its own benefit is not required. Pruning the stem stimulates the development of lateral buds and starts the branching process. This is especially true for such a variety as bordered dracaena: as it grows, the lower, older leaves die off, over time, all the foliage is concentrated at the top. The remaining bare trunk does not look very nice, which is why the dracaena is cut to get side shoots.

By the way, in addition to the decorative function, pruning a dracaena indoor flower is its reproduction using cuttings. The mother plant will branch, and the new dracaena-top or stalk will give life to a new full-fledged flower.

The best time for pruning is the same as for transplanting, spring or early summer. The plant should be already old enough, at least thirty centimeters in height. The cut point should be five centimeters below the tallest and youngest leaves.

When pruning, use a well-sharpened knife, charcoal or activated charcoal, you can also stock up on Zircon. Cut the stem, first sprinkle the cut with charcoal, and then process it with Zircon. A cut cutting can be used for propagation, namely rooting in water.

Dracaena care: species differences

Indoor flower dracaena species and varieties can be very different. In general, care for indoor dracaena does not differ much depending on their species and cultivar. But there are a few points that the grower should know.

Dracaena marginata (aka bordered dracaena) is the most common and most unpretentious species of all domestic dracaena. Caring for her is no different from what was described above.
Dracaena Godzefa and Dragon, unlike all other varieties, calmly tolerate dry air.
Dracaena fragrant, or fragrans, tolerates cold well. At a temperature of only +10, it is even able to bloom, although it does this very rarely at room conditions, despite the temperature regime created for it. She is also able to calmly be outdoors in the summer. For the rest of the dracaena, it is still preferable to be kept indoors and not leave its limits.
Dracaena bent, or reflex - the most capricious and demanding variety. It is usually kept only in greenhouses, because it requires constant maintenance of a certain temperature, humidity and lighting.
Dracaena sander, the very famous lucky bamboo, is so unpretentious that it can grow even just in water. It does not require planting in the ground, but it is advisable to add mineral fertilizers to the water, since without them the leaves of the dracaena will turn yellow. In this case, only distilled water should be used, in extreme cases filtered. Using tap water can also cause the foliage to turn yellow.

To learn more about dracaena, you can read the article

Diseases and pests

Like all indoor plants, dracaena has its own problematic and vulnerable places, diseases and its pests. The most common of them are discussed below.

Scale insects, thrips, spider mites are the main pests that affect dracaena.

When affected by thrips, light spots and silver stains appear on the leaves. In this case, you can treat the leaves with soapy water, leaving it for a day, and then flushing. If such a measure did not help, then it is necessary to treat the dracaena with insecticides.

The spider mite infects the leaves, leads to their yellowing, drying and death. A characteristic symptom of this disease is the presence of cobwebs on the plant. In such a case, it is recommended to wipe the dracaena with soapy water and give it a warm shower. If the measures taken do not help, it must be sprayed with Fufan or Fitover. The spider mite starts up with increased dryness of the air, and therefore one of the preventive measures of the disease is its timely moistening and periodic spraying of the plant with water.

If the leaves turn yellow and dry

Not always, when the leaves turn yellow on the indoor flower of the dracaena, this is due to the defeat of its pests. Perhaps the reason lies in insufficient care. Yellowing of the leaves occurs as a result of dry air, with insufficient watering and lack of fertilizer. Drying and twisted leaves appear if the plant is too cold.

If the dracaena lowered its leaves. The solution to the problem is at what point it happened. Indoor dracaena can drop leaves immediately after purchase, after transplantation (with soil replacement) and damage to the integrity of the roots, as a result of improper watering.

If the leaves are lowered by the newly purchased dracaena, there is no reason to panic - the plant simply undergoes acclimatization, gets used to new conditions of light, temperature and humidity. Almost all dracaena drop leaves immediately after they were brought home from the store.

If the leaves dropped immediately after transplanting into a new pot, this is a sign of damage to the root system.

Insufficient air humidity and improperly organized watering regimen can also provoke leaf drop. Either the flower was flooded, or, conversely, dried.

Indoor palm dracaena Marginata, lucky bamboo Sander, blooming Fragrans - all these varieties of dracaena require certain care, and this care has minimal differences depending on the species. Dracaena can be called a very unpretentious indoor plant, because it does not require so much attention. Good lighting, sufficient humidity, timely transplantation - these are the requirements that are inherent in almost every indoor plant. So, if you decide to get yourself a dracaena, don’t be afraid of the difficulties with leaving it, since there are no difficulties as such.

Dracaena - diseases and treatment with a photo

Dracaena is a rather unpretentious plant for home cultivation. However, receiving the wrong care, it loses its decorative appearance. The dracaena has lowered its leaves, the tips of the leaves are drying up. What to do in such cases? So, experts consider the main problems and diseases of dracaena, their treatment with a photo.

Why do the tips of the leaves dry and turn yellow in dracaena? Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Causes, treatment, photo

Typical dracaena diseases and their effective treatment with explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.

Why do the tips of the leaves dry on dracaena? Causes: lack of sunlight, irrigation regime violated, heavy soil.

With the onset of autumn-winter (from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dormant period for the dracaena, the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, the temperature of the plant content is reduced (to +17. +18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and fertilizing are not carried out. During the dormant period, the dracaena slows down its growth, and therefore, in low light conditions, it does not expel new, deformed leaves, its branches do not become thinner.

Why does dracaena turn yellow and what to do?

Most types of room dracaena are very unpretentious in their care: they do not need to be watered or sprayed every day, there is no need to put them in bright sunlight and maintain a constant level of temperature in the room. By devoting just a few minutes a week to caring for a plant, you can get a very beautiful plant that will delight you and your loved ones with its appearance.

However, even with proper and regular care, the flower may begin to turn yellow, dry and lose leaves. Before dealing with the consequence, it is necessary to determine the cause of the deterioration of his condition.

Why do dracaena leaves turn yellow:

plant age: the life of an individual sheet does not exceed 1.5-2 years. After that, it begins to gradually turn yellow, dry and eventually fall off. This, first of all, concerns the lower leaves of the plant, since they are the most mature and their life time is gradually coming to an end. The natural death of the lower leaves usually proceeds rather slowly.
What to do: so that the plant does not lose its decorative effect, the tips of dying leaves are cut off to healthy tissue. Even a third and smaller part of the cut sheet will still work on the flower, so you do not need to remove the entire sheet at once.

Insufficient air humidity. In some types of dracaena (Marginates, for example), the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out if there is insufficient humidity in the room.
What to do: dealing with this is easy and simple! The leaves will stop turning yellow and dry if they are regularly sprayed with water or increase the humidity in the room using a humidifier.

Overflow, overwatering. Yellowing of dracaena leaves may be the first symptom that your flower is starting to die due to excess moisture in the pot. Another characteristic sign that the flower is poured is that the trunk becomes soft to the touch.
What to do: if you water the flower often enough and do not let the earthy coma dry out, then you need to take urgent measures to save the plant. The flower must be removed from the pot, dry the roots, cut off those on which rot has appeared and transplanted into new soil.

Lack of moisture. If you have not watered your dracaena for a long time, then it may begin to die from a lack of moisture and the first symptoms of this will be yellowing and wilting of the leaves.
What to do: to avoid this, it is necessary to observe the mode of watering the plant: water it only when the earthen lump in the pot dries out completely, but do not delay watering.

Direct sunlight. As already mentioned several times in other articles, all types of dracaena do not like strong sunlight and direct sunlight. It is very easy to determine that the plant turns yellow precisely because of strong lighting: at the same time, the upper leaves, which are exposed to the sun's rays, become duller and burn out. In addition, excessive heating of the leaf (especially in summer) causes the leaf to overheat and dry out.
What to do: rearrange the flower pot so that direct sunlight does not fall on it.

Draft and low temperature. The optimum room temperature for a flower is 18-25 degrees, lowering the temperature below 16 degrees can be detrimental to dracaena. As well as cold drafts: it is they who most often cause a deterioration in the health and appearance of the plant in the cold season.
What to do: if the pot is on a window or somewhere in the passage, make sure that there is no draft there and the temperature on the windowsill is not even 18 degrees. Remember that even plastic windows can blow through in strong winds. It is especially important to monitor this during the cold season, when cold air from the street can freeze the plant.

Diseases and pests: if you constantly care for a flower, follow all the conditions for caring for it, but the leaves still begin to turn yellow, then some disease or pest may be a possible cause of this.
What to do: try treating the plant with a special preparation (if you don’t know which one to use, go to a flower shop, describe the symptoms of the disease, and the sellers will tell you which preparation is best to use). Even once can sometimes be enough for your plant to become healthy again.

Dracaena leaves turn yellow. Care. Transfer*

#1 Nastya

#2 Natalie

I know. that the lower ones should die off every two years, but for mine it all happens somehow abruptly: 6 pieces have already fallen off in the last month, and at least one more is going (and she has three crowns in total) Is this normal?

Nastya, two years is the average lifespan of a dracaena leaf. And it usually “falls out” twice a year, in spring and autumn. This is not a gradual process, but a sharp one - many leaves turn yellow and dry at once. Moreover, the timing of leaf fall can shift depending on the weather. Mine was also late this spring, the leaf fall is just ending (usually this happens in April).
Six dead leaves on three stems is, believe me, very little. The older the dracaena is, the more leaves will fly from it. And you should not be afraid of this. Although sometimes I feel uneasy, I start to twitch - am I flooding it? 🙂
If the roots do not rot, then there is no reason to worry.

#3 sem

#4 Lena

After we bought it, my dratsenka (like Kanzi) started having problems with leaves. The lower leaves dry out at the tips (to blackness), but a week ago I noticed light yellow spots on the same leaves.

Light yellow spots can also appear from an excess of light (in any case, in the marginate). But in principle - yes, it looks like it is frozen (yukia are more frost-resistant). The medicine is epin, or analogues.

#5 sem

#6 Lena

And what to do with the leaves?

Do not cut - they will fall off. She is now recovering, recovering and growing. It's good that spring is in the yard.

#7 Galga

The lower leaves dry out at the tips (to blackness), but a week ago I noticed light yellow spots on the same leaves.

I won’t say about the yellow spots, but the blackness, I’m sure, is from the fact that they froze. Recently I brought the same dracaena from Natasha and did not save it. I carefully cut off all the black tips with scissors, leaving a border no more than 1 mm. The lower leaves of 2 pieces had to be completely removed. Now the bush on a small leg turned out. So what to do. If you don’t want to use a bush, you can re-root when you get well. I have just one of the tops, re-rooted by Natasha, from her old dracaena. The plant was sick for about 2 weeks after the move. Then the neoplasm of spots stopped. Now new leaves, which were not visible, have grown by half a centimeter.

#8 Natali

#9 standby_md

#10 Xu

on them like that. hm. If you look at them from the outside of the leaf, they are like tubercles. The leaf itself is dark green, but these tubercles are more faded. What is it? Isn't it a false shield? Or is this how it should be with dracaena?

I don't know if dracaena have such things
You start digging in a book about diseases - it blows your head
Found: spots - convex, first pale green (then reddish-brown) - signs of insufficient illumination with excessive watering
or! watering with cold water, sunburn.
Maybe while they were transporting (or in the store) the conditions were unsuitable?
Infectious diseases and pests with almost the same symptoms.
IMHO, you just need to watch these spots - whether they will increase, whether they will appear on new leaves. You can think about anything.

#11 Lena

Girls, I also bought myself a drapery.

#12 sem

#13 standby_md

Transfer, for sure! In peat, probably? They torture them all in peat. Roots - there are, but I don’t know why they suddenly decide to grow. Convexity definitely should not be! I don't know who/what it is, but. Are there a lot of leaves?

Her roots, already limp from the ground, stick out about 5 cm + small, very thin - also above the ground. The earth looks like peat. So how do I transplant it? Completely wash off the soil from the roots or is it enough to top up? I read that they don't tolerate transplants well.
The spots are not on all the leaves, but only on some. I specially donated one sheet to see what it is. I picked it with my fingernail, and there it was just a plate of the sheet that peeled off, as if hollow inside. In short, I don't know what it is. I'll be watching for spots. But every fireman I have already processed it with agravertine.

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