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Why does spathiphyllum not bloom, what to do? Home care. Why does spathiphyllum release only leaves and does not bloom? Spathiphyllum does not open flower

Among fans of indoor plants, spathiphyllum is especially popular, primarily due to its beauty.

Few will be left indifferent by the dark green shiny leaves and unusually delicate white flowers.

An important role is played by the legend that he helps women find their happiness, and protects the hearth from adversity and anxiety.

But in order for a beautiful fairy tale to come true, at least the flower must be in comfortable conditions, look beautiful and well-groomed, but not everyone succeeds. What is the reason?

Possible problems

Spathiphyllum, subject to proper care, is quite unpretentious, a child of the tropical forests of the South American continent tolerates shading well, rarely gets sick, blooms most of the year.

But often experienced florists are faced with some difficulties in growing it.

Sometimes, seemingly for no reason, the spathiphyllum wither, the leaves turn black and yellow, the tips dry out, or become covered with yellow spots and are lost forever.

In the photo spathiphyllum, which leaves turn black

Some complain that they can't wait to bloom, or the flowers turn green, darken and fall off. Sometimes the plant is attacked by pests or an incomprehensible disease suddenly appears.

What do these troubles mean when it is worth worrying, how to cope on your own, how to deal with pests?

There are many problems that lie in wait for amateurs, but it is not difficult to solve them, the main thing is to understand the issue thoroughly and then caring for the plant will not cause excessive trouble and will only bring pleasure and joy.

With proper care, there will be no problems:

Does not bloom, does not smell, does not please ...

The flowers of the plant are beautiful and touching, it is not for nothing that it is called a female flower, but some of its owners complain that they cannot wait for them to bloom. Why does spathiphyllum not bloom, but only leaves?

It blooms quite actively: several times a year, usually this period covers the whole spring, and sometimes until autumn, the owners can enjoy its magnificent appearance. This period is capable of increasing, it all depends on age, proper lighting, care.

The lack of flowering is more often observed for several reasons:

  • spacious pot;
  • excessive watering;
  • lack of nutrition;
  • incorrect placement.

In such a large pot, the plant will not bloom

How to make the finicky bloom bloom?

The solution to the problem lies in several dimensions:

  1. The plant will bloom only when the entire cavity of the pot will be filled with roots, that is, he will become cramped for him. Therefore, it is impractical to transplant it once again, but if you had to do this, then the container should be chosen a little more.
  2. If the soil is regularly poured, and diseased leaves have already appeared, this interferes with the normal nutrition and respiration of the plant, it is not up to flowers. In this situation, the dry ends are cut off, the soil is dried. It is necessary to decide on watering, it is important to apply it only when the topsoil dries up. This rule must be adhered to regularly, the soil in the pot must be loosened, the green mass must be sprayed, the water for irrigation must be enriched with Zircon or Energen must be added.
  3. The place for the flower is importantly chosen correctly- partial shade, without drafts and tangible temperature changes. The most preferred option is the east-facing windows.
  4. To activate vitality and induce flowering, first stop watering for a while, slightly lower the temperature of the content, to a maximum of 16 degrees, and then return to normal conditions.
  5. At moments of active growth, spathiphyllum needs to be fed every 2 weeks... Moreover, nitrogen is added with caution, otherwise, apart from an increase in the green mass, other changes will not have to be expected. But potassium and phosphorus are just the way to go.
  6. To wake up the sloth, you can mess with him a little, pull the leaves.
  7. To provoke another flowering, you can cutting off a peduncle with a knife, at the very base.

What can be done if spathiphyllum does not bloom:

Why do the leaves turn yellow and what to do?

Sometimes even the most caring owners of spathiphyllum turn yellow leaves. At first, small spots appear at the edges, then they increase, spread over the entire surface of the sheet, and it gradually dies off.

Dry air and lack of watering - the result on the leaves

This does not always indicate a plant disease. When old leaves turn yellow and are lost, the flower simply gets rid of the shoots that have outlived their age in order to enable younger ones to develop.

When, along with old leaves, young ones also undergo changes, then, most likely, the presence of the following factors is present:

  1. Perhaps the flower is standing directly in direct sunlight, then this burn spots, in this case, it is necessary to remove them where they will not be too exposed to the light.
  2. When a flower starts to wither, the first thing to do is to revise presence of insects.
  3. The reason may be overdrying an earthen coma.
  4. Sometimes the reason is that the flower, entering the flowering phase, directs all nutrients to the reproduction process... Or it bloomed profusely for a long time, and saves energy for recovery. In both cases, it must be treated with special attention and fed.
  5. It is not excluded the flowerpot became cramped for him, then the only way out is to transfer to a larger container.
  6. Causes color change and increased air dryness... A native of the tropics is very fond of moisture, so it is necessary to create similar conditions for him, and spray him daily.
  7. Yellow spots are formed if cold water is used for irrigation.
  8. If the spathiphyllum brought from the store turned yellow, then it is urgent to transplant it, usually such a substrate is of insufficient quality and does not contain the necessary components. Fasting manifests itself as spots, and then it is necessary to make up for the lack of boron, magnesium, phosphorus, calcium and nitrogen.
  9. Green streaks on a yellow background indicate the presence of chlorosis... Here the only measure to get rid of the infection is.

If you start to eliminate the causes on time, then the flower is easy to restore and return to its former beauty.

The first thing to do is trim the damaged leaves to prevent the spathiphyllum from wasting nutrients.

Then, slightly digging up the ground in the pot, carefully examine the roots. When they are healthy, they are light, and slightly greenish, which are closer to the stem.

But for fidelity, it is better to replace the earth, remove the rotten areas, and treat it with a fungicide as a prophylaxis against diseases. Plant the plant in new soil, preferably enrich it with fertilizer.

The hostess should know information about the life cycle of her ward, separate the shoots from the mother bush in time, feed them in a timely manner, provide moisture and warmth, then the leaves will not change their color.

Blackening of the leaves, what can be done?

Sometimes spathiphyllum leaves turn black, often the reason lies in excessive watering.

Due to oversaturation of moisture, the roots lack oxygen, and the plant reacts by darkening the tips of the leaves.

If the plant is accidentally flooded once, then a newspaper or a few paper napkins will help to correct the situation - it is enough to get the ground wet and the moisture will go away.

But if the situation is repeated often, and the changes have affected the leaves, on the tips of which black spots have already appeared, then the bush will have to be transplanted, replacing the ground.

The same reaction can be in response to a combination of unfavorable conditions: constant drafts and low temperatures, and if the spathiphyllum is in such a situation for a long time, then the tips of the unblown leaves also turn black.

Blackening of the leaves sometimes indicates root rot that has affected the lower part of the plant, which appears as a result of the above unfavorable conditions, especially if it is exposed to such an effect for a long time.

This is very dangerous for a plant, if timely measures are not taken, then it will simply die. In this case, it is necessary to remove the flower from the ground and carefully examine the root system.

Those areas that have rotted are mercilessly removed, the remaining parts are first washed in potassium permanganate, then dipped into a growth stimulator, then treated with crushed activated carbon. The flower is transplanted, and then the watering rules are strictly observed.

Blackening of the tips of the leaves may indicate an imbalance in nutrition: a lack of phosphorus and nitrogen in the soil, by the way, is also a sign of an excess of fertilizers. The roots get a chemical burn, and cease to function at full strength.

In order to avoid these situations, it is necessary to use complex feeding all year round, strictly adhering to the instructions, then there will be no problems.

What to do if the leaves dry and what is the reason?

With the onset of cold weather and the inclusion of heating devices, the air in the room becomes much drier and the leaves of the spathiphyllum often begin to dry.

Leaves dry out - look for the reason in the excessive dryness of the air

This is because the pots are usually placed on the windowsill, and the batteries underneath dry out the air significantly.

This can happen during hot, dry summers when the sun's rays hit the leaves and cause burns, resulting in brown spots.

It's time to start fighting dry air, daily spraying does not always help, so additional measures must be taken:

  • near the flowerpots, you can place small bowls of water, and place moss on the ground, it will maintain moisture without interfering with the breathing of the plant;
  • spread sand or expanded clay in a pallet, moisten them a little and place a flower pot there;
  • special humidifiers can be purchased in the store, they are simply soaked in water and placed on the ground;
  • once a week, in addition to spraying the plant, it is necessary to arrange a warm shower, only the ground must be carefully covered with a film.

Some people make the mistake of increasing the intensity of watering. But this measure is unjustified, moreover, it is harmful and can cause decay of the roots.

A poor-quality substrate purchased from a store can cause the leaves to dry out. This may be a consequence of transplantation, but this is not surprising: the root system of the spathiphyllum is weak, and such a procedure is stressful for the plant.

Flowers take on a greenish tint

Spathiphyllum flowers turn green for two reasons:

  1. Firstly, some varieties have this feature.
  2. Secondly, it is natural state of the flower when the white blanket covering the ear changes color, it gives a sign that the flowering is coming to an end. If it turns green, you can cut off the peduncle, then energy will not be wasted, and soon it will begin to fill the buds again.

In their absence, the root system is carefully studied, if there are no changes there, then the flower does not have enough nutrition for a full-fledged growing season, complex fertilizers will help here.

This plant is absolutely healthy

At the flower, everything falls from ... the trunk

Sometimes such a picture emerges, the spathiphyllum seems to be falling apart, the leaves have fallen and wither, and even lost their turgor, what is the reason?

It is necessary to remember how long ago the owner watered his pupil, maybe he forgot to do it, and this is a manifestation of a lack of moisture in the soil.

This spathiphyllum is very thirsty ...

If everything is normal, then, most likely, the problem is in the roots, they are not working properly and the ground part lacks power.

The darkened areas are removed, most likely there will be a lot of them, since the plant with minor damage would not react so radically.

It happens that almost all the roots are engulfed in the process of decay, then they will have to be removed, leaving an intact part. Treat with antiseptics and put in water.

In case of severe lesions, it will be possible to save the spathiphyllum by immersing it in liquid almost completely, leaving only the ends of the leaves at the top.

At home, it often grows in swamps and in such an environment it will be able to recover and gain strength faster, provided that it is not infected with a disease.

Leaf deformation

When the leaves of a flower change their shape, become narrow and elongate, then, most likely, the plant does not have enough light.

Although the sun's rays are dangerous for spathiphyllum, complete blackout does not suit it either. Diffused lighting will be optimal, then it will feel great.

The plant twirls the leaves - it's not without reason

Pests and diseases - there is always this risk

Not a single plant is immune from attack, even with good care, uninvited guests can attack the spathiphyllum:

Scabbard Fight:

If you take into account all the needs of the plant, provide it with proper care, competent agricultural technology and sufficient lighting, then there will be no problems with it, and this attractive flower will delight its owner for many years.

The most wonderful time is when the "female happiness" flower blooms. At this moment, it looks like a white sail. The inflorescence is formed on a long stalk, around it is covered with a snow-white blanket(why sometimes?).

Reference! The flowering process is a complex of physiological processes of generative reproduction. Which occur in flowering plants from the budding period to the full disclosure of flowers. The development of flowers in all plants occurs in its own way.

Spathiphyllum belongs to perennial plants, therefore flowering occurs after full development. At first, the flower grows actively, new shoots appear. Gradually, he will get stronger, gain strength and release a peduncle. In a young individual, the appearance of flowers occurs approximately in the second year of life..

Of course, the flowering time comes in accordance with the growing conditions. This species is capable of the budding process annually.

We talked in detail about what a blooming spathiphyllum is.

Under favorable conditions spathiphyllum blooms in early spring, and the phenomenon continues until autumn... Having rested in winter, the indoor flower is ready to bloom in March.

Although this is preceded by a short growing season, from about February to mid-March. Until the end of summer, and possibly until the end of September, the exotic blooms.

There are times when the plant gains strength over the summer and resumes flowering in the fall.

How many times a year?

Usually, spathiphyllum pleases with its inflorescences in the spring and summer... After winter rest, just with the onset of a long daylight hours. And perhaps, with proper care, the indoor exotic blooms twice a year, even in the autumn-winter period.

Is it possible to extend the period of emergence of new buds?

As already mentioned, the duration of flowering, and the abundance of inflorescences, directly depends on the parameters of plant maintenance. Spathiphyllum can please with flowering several times a year. The time when the plant has flowers can last from 1 month to six months. In each case, everything is individual.

So, for the appearance of new buds, a room temperature within + 23-25 ​​° C is important. Necessarily without sudden changes and drafts. Intense lighting is also indispensable. The flower "female happiness" loves sunlight, but in hot periods you need to be careful with it. In addition to lighting, also watering is important... The soil should not dry out completely; the plant prefers a moist growing environment. Don't forget about the soil. Optimal composition:

  • humus earth with pine bark;
  • ash;
  • brick chips.

Important! When spathiphyllum has its first flowers, it is important to provide more thorough care. During this period, the flower gives all its strength to the formation of new buds, the opening of the flower.

Lack of peduncles

Often a situation occurs when the plant looks healthy. Juicy green leaves, large in size, the flower is actively releasing new shoots, but the peduncles are not. Mineral preparations based on nitrogen stimulate active growth of green mass to the detriment of flowering. To activate the budding process, the plant should be fed with fertilizers based on potassium and phosphorus., it is these substances that are responsible for future flowering. Also, the reasons for the lack of flowering are:

  • the wrong size of the flowerpot;
  • soil condition;
  • the transplant was made illiterately;
  • improper care;
  • insects;
  • lack of fertilizers;
  • wrong place;
  • low humidity.

What if “female happiness” does not unfold?

For the appearance of the long-awaited buds, the spathiphyllum needs to create a kind of stress... Basically, lowering the temperature, reducing watering gives a good result, but there should be enough light.

  1. Move to a cool room with a temperature not lower than + 16 ° С.
  2. Reduce watering frequency.
  3. The soil in the flowerpot must be dried regularly.

Attention! In such "Spartan" conditions, an indoor exotic must stay for several days. Then bring it to a warm place, and clearly follow the following care recommendations.

  1. Room temperature + 23-25 ​​° С.
  2. Humidity 60%.
  3. Provides bright sunlight.
  4. Moisturizing daily.
  5. Loosen the soil after watering.
  6. Apply fertilizer every week.
  7. Spray with warm water every day.
  8. Eliminate the presence of drafts.
  9. It is possible to use drugs to stimulate flowering "Bud", "Domotsvet".

You can find out about all the reasons why the plant does not want to bloom and what needs to be done to make this happen, you can find out by reading.

Doing everything right, with care and love, spathiphyllum will regularly delight you with its beautiful flowers... Which, as it turned out, you can cut, create bouquets and put in a vase. In this state, the inflorescences can arrive up to 30 days. Cut flowers to give to relatives or friends, of course, they will be happy about this.

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Spathiphyllum is considered a very common and favorite plant. It can be seen in almost every home. In common people, the flower is called "female happiness." According to popular belief, he brings happiness to every woman's house. Obviously for this reason, many women have such a flower and are looking forward to when it blooms. According to legends, with the appearance of flowers on the spathiphyllum, the mistress of the house is considered a happy woman. What to do for those women whose plant does not bloom, and how do you know why? What to do in order to finally bloom spathiphyllum?

Spathiphyllum and its varieties

This flower is considered an evergreen and belongs to the Aroid family. Exists almost 45 types of spathiphyllum... Some species can grow small, while others grow to large sizes. Those species that most often grow at home grow to a maximum height of up to 40 cm.

The flower has a medium-sized stem, on which smooth, rounded, bright green leaves are located. The flowers of the plant appear as white and cream-colored cobs surrounded by a white or greenish petal. This single petal on a thin stem looks very delicate. Its appearance is very feminine, which is why it got the name spathiphyllum, which translated from Greek means “veil” and “leaf”. If you look closely at the inflorescence, then it really resembles an elegant white blanket.

Most popular for home cultivation several types are considered:

  • charming;
  • profusely blooming;
  • spoon-shaped;
  • canniferous.

The flower is easy to care for and it blooms only twice a year. This usually happens in the spring and fall. In order for it to develop well, it must be placed in a small pot. It needs to be transplanted when the roots in the old container become cramped.

Why doesn't spathiphyllum bloom?

The duration of flowering and the abundance of inflorescences will depend on the correct care for the spathiphyllum. The flowering period of this plant starts in the middle of spring and continues until late autumn. With the beginning of the winter season, the flower begins a period of rest and rest.

The flower loves warmth, therefore, it is advisable to create comfortable conditions for it for good development with an optimal temperature of 22-23 o C. If the temperature in the room is below +18 o C, the spathiphyllum will suffer and grow poorly., The leaves will begin to turn yellow. When a flower regularly throws out flowers, a caring hostess has nothing to worry about. But what to do when the plant only throws out leaves and does not bloom and how to make spathiphyllum bloom?

If the plant does not emit buds for a long time, then there is a reason for that. They can affect flowering the following main factors:

  • The flower does not like spacious pots, its roots must braid it tightly and if this does not happen, the buds will not appear.
  • You cannot put the pot in direct sunlight, but you need to choose a place with good lighting.
  • The plant is afraid of drafts and air conditioners, for this reason the leaves turn yellow.
  • Spathiphyllum does not respond well to abundant watering. Its leaves begin to cover brown spots and gradually the foliage dries.
  • If the air is too dry in the room and there is insufficient watering, the plant will not bloom either. The moisture level is increased by spraying with a spray bottle. With insufficient moisture levels, the leaves begin to turn yellow.
  • The flower needs nitrogenous and phosphorus fertilizers, with a lack of them, it develops poorly. The lack of feeding is also evidenced by the yellowness on the deciduous mass.
  • A plant that is too old will also not please with flowering. He needs to be seated.
  • Flowering is affected by pests and diseases that can appear due to improper care.

Secrets and subtleties of home care

There are many different nuances in spathiphyllum care. Knowing the features of growing a flower, you can achieve regular flowering, the plant will have a healthy and attractive appearance.

Preparing for transplant special soil composition of equal parts:

  • sheet part;
  • sod part;
  • sand;
  • peat.

Transplanting must be done carefully so that the root system of the flower does not suffer. After planting, the plant needs frequent watering and spraying. Careful grooming and normal conditions will promote good growth.

Most of all, spathiphyllum suffers from pests such as spider mites, scale insects and aphids... They are the most dangerous for the houseplant.

Few housewives know a simple secret - it is better to remove the old leaves of the plant by cutting them off so that new and healthy shoots can quickly form and give buds.

The basic rules for caring for this delicate flower will help the plant bloom for a long time. Only under comfortable conditions will "female happiness" bloom, make it possible to enjoy the magnificent white color and feel happy.

Many of the houseplants are categorized by species. Some classes can be grown exclusively at home outside of aggressive weather. Some may only be kept outdoors. There are those that will grow well in difficult environments - even in a greenhouse or in the yard. By determining which group the plant belongs to, it will be possible to reliably produce the proper climate. Critical management principles consist of ensuring the moisture content of the air, the amount of moisture introduced into the soil and ensuring a favorable temperature. The sun is one of the main factors.

Possible difficulties in growing spathiphyllum

The reason may be too large a pot. Spathiphyllum bloom when the roots twine around the entire pot. The signal for transplanting is the roots that have filled the entire volume of the pot with the plant.

Also, the lack of flowering can be the result of a too low temperature of the content, insufficient moisture, but more often a combination of both. The plant may not be getting enough nutrition. If you solve all these problems, then the flower should bloom.

The plant lacks lighting, with too much shading, flowering becomes rare, or stops altogether. On light windows, spathiphyllum blooms more abundantly and longer, much larger in size, but it should be borne in mind that too bright light of the sun is harmful to it.

There is another possibility - the plant is old. Such spathiphyllums bloom with difficulty. In this case, you need to divide the bush during transplantation into several parts ...

To achieve abundant flowering, spathiphyllum can be kept for up to 2 weeks in a cool place at a temperature of + 9 + 12 ° C, reducing watering. Then you need to expose to bright light, apply mineral and organic fertilizers, after a month the plant usually begins to bloom. As a rule, spathiphyllum does not have a pronounced dormant period, but if it is cool in winter, it is reasonable to reduce watering and spraying, and not feed at all.

Lack or lack of feeding is also the reason for the lack of re-flowering. Excess nitrogen leads to increased leaf growth, the plant does not bloom well. Therefore, a fertilizer with a low nitrogen content, but an increased potassium content is used. From spring to autumn (during the active growing season), spathiphyllum must be fed every two weeks with a full mineral fertilizer of low concentration for flowering plants. The rest of the time, once a month.

All flowers are very beautiful, they are even often compared to the beautiful half of humanity - women. But for some reason, only spathiphyllum is called a female indoor flower, although it is not as popular as violets, begonias, phalaenopsis or other indoor plants. You can even find another name for spathiphyllum - female happiness. This is due to the fact that, according to popular beliefs, it is this flower that helps unmarried young girls meet their soul mate, and those who have already found her - to become a mother. And the flower of spathiphyllum itself looks very delicate: one snow-white large petal bends around an inflorescence that has the shape of an ear, as if a woman is a thin veil.

Spathiphyllum belongs to the aroid family. In his homeland, in the tropical forests of South America, you can find about 45 species of this flower. But at home, flower growers most often grow Spathiphyllum profusely and Wallis' Spathiphyllum. Spathiphyllum profusely flowering is a perennial herbaceous evergreen plant. It reaches a height of 40cm, has a small stem and bright green glossy rounded leaves 15-30cm long. Wallis' spathiphyllum has no stem, and the leaves are collected in a rosette. Spathiphyllum flowers are white or cream-colored cobs surrounded by a white or pale green veil, blooming for about a month.

When growing spathiphyllum, flower growers are often faced with the fact that it stops blooming or blooms poorly, and do not know what to do about it. In this article, we will look at the main reasons why spathiphyllum does not bloom and how to make it bloom.

The usual flowering period of spathiphyllum lasts from mid-spring to late summer, as it blooms frequently - several times a year. It can even bloom for eight to nine months, depending on the age of the plant, care and lighting. For better flowering, it must be placed on the eastern windows. To cause another flowering in spathiphyllum, after the end of the previous flowering period, you need to cut off the already faded peduncles with a sharp knife as low as possible to the base.

Reasons why spathiphyllum does not bloom:

  • inappropriate placement;
  • grows in a pot that is too spacious;
  • excess moisture in the ground;
  • lack or lack of feeding.

How to make spathiphyllum bloom?

Adhering to the basic rules of caring for spathiphyllum and eliminating the reasons why it does not bloom, your "female happiness" will delight you with its bloom every year.

Spathiphyllum is a non-capricious plant, but sometimes it also gives trouble to its owner. Errors in care immediately affect the condition of the leaves of the spathiphyllum. They can turn black, yellow, discolor, lose turgor. All these symptoms clearly indicate problems in agricultural technology that need to be eliminated in order to restore the decorative effect and health of the plant.

Florists often ask the question why the tips of the leaves turn black and dry in spathiphyllum. Let's try to figure it out.

Reason # 1. Dry air

In this case, the tips dry out quite a bit - literally by 1-2 mm. At the same time, the rest of the leaf plate remains green or, in the border zone with blackening, acquires a yellowish tint. By this type, the tips of the leaves dry in spathiphyllum when it is grown in normal living conditions. This phenomenon is especially pronounced in winter, when the heating is on.

The reason for the dry tips of the leaves of spathiphyllum is dry air

What to do?

To minimize the appearance of black tips of spathiphyllum, you should increase the humidity near the pot with the plant. For this it is recommended:

  • spray spathiphyllum 2 times a day with warm, settled water;
  • place spathiphyllum next to the aquarium;
  • put a pot of spathiphyllum on a pallet with wet expanded clay;
  • use a humidifier (most effective).

Reason # 2. The bay

In this case, in spathiphyllum, the leaves turn black and dry a little differently. The defect affects wider areas and affects part of the leaf plate. The blackening zone is limited from the normal part of the leaf blade by a narrow yellow border.


Such spots "speak" of the bay and heavy, non-hygroscopic soil

What to do?

Blackening of only the tips of the leaves suggests that spathiphyllum is watered too often, but there is still no root rot. In this case, helping the flower will consist in the adjusted watering mode.

Some growers decide to water only when the spathiphyllum leaves droop and look wilted outwardly. Sometimes this happens when the soil in the pot is almost completely dry! However, for spathiphyllum, such a seemingly cruel drying is in the order of things. It is worth watering it and in an hour all the leaves will restore turgor. At the same time, the irrigation regime with constant severe drying is not a recommended option. That is, sometimes you can do this, but not systematically. This has a negative effect on the condition of the soil and small suction roots, which can die off. Ideally, spathiphyllum should be watered after the soil dries out by 1/3 - 1/4 of the height of the pot.

Symptom number 2. Spathiphyllum leaves dry at the edges, black drying spots appear in the central part of the leaf plate

Reason # 1. The bay

Dark black or brown spots on spathiphyllum usually indicate a significant bay that accompanies the plant for a long time. Most likely, the flower is watered too often and there is a constant swamp at the bottom of the pot, near the roots. It is not surprising that the roots in such a situation begin to rot, which leads to the fact that the leaves of the spathiphyllum turn black.


With a heavy gulf, the leaves of the spathiphyllum become covered with dark spots along the edges.

What to do?

First, adjust the watering (read about the recommended watering mode in the previous paragraph). If the spots continue to spread to more leaves or grow in size, the roots should be examined and, if necessary, the rot found should be treated. This can be done according to the following scheme:

  • Examine the roots for rot. Rotten roots - yellowish or brown, soft; healthy roots are white, dense.
  • Plant the spathiphyllum in a new, light soil with the addition of activated carbon (to prevent rotting of the slices). No need to water right away! The parquet ground is initially damp, this is enough to support the life of the "amputated" roots.
  • After 2-3 days, when the new soil dries out, pour the transplanted spathiphyllum with warm, settled (ideally, boiled) water with the addition of Kornevin.

Reason # 2. Cooling roots

In spathiphyllum, leaves may turn black from wet cooling. For example, if you watered the plant in the evening, and at night it got cold and the roots froze.


"Wet" cooling of the spathiphyllum roots leads to the appearance of brown and yellow spots on the leaf plate

What to do?

Try not to make that mistake again. Remove spathiphyllum from a cold windowsill and do not water it in the evening. To quickly put the plant in order, spray it with Epin, a stress adaptogen that will help overcome adverse factors and increase the immunity of spathiphyllum.

Reason number 3. Overfeeding with fertilizers (burn)

With a burn from fertilizers, spots on the leaves of the spathiphyllum appear quickly. Literally overnight, after watering with excess fertilizer, extensive brown or black zones appear on the leaves. After that, the entire leaf turns yellow and dies off.


Burn stains from fertilizers or chemical stimulants

What to do?

If you suspect overfeeding with fertilizer, you need to act quickly. Spathiphyllum roots should be washed in clean water and transplanted into new soil.

Symptom number 3. Spathiphyllum turns yellow

Often spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow, and in large quantities. This greatly spoils the decorative appearance of the flower. Let's try to understand each specific situation.

Reason # 1. Direct sunlight, sunburn

Spathiphyllum respects the so-called penumbra. That is, a large amount of scattered light, without direct sunlight. If the pot with spathiphyllum is placed, for example, on the southern or southwestern windowsill, then it will soon be possible to see that its leaves have lost their rich green color, burned out. Discolored leaves turn yellow and even turn white.

If the sun's rays were not only bright, but also hot, sunburn is possible. In this case, yellowing occurs in spots or stripes. Moreover, the burnt parts become thinner, similar to parchment.


On the southern windows, spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow or turn white from high light intensity

What to do?

If your spathiphyllum has turned yellow from excessive light, it must be rearranged to a darker place, without direct sunlight. For spathiphyllum, window sills of the north, north-east, north-west, east direction are suitable. If all the windows in your apartment are sunny, don't worry. Place the spathiphyllum at some distance from the window, in the back of the room to reduce the light intensity.

Reason # 2. Lack of trace elements, chlorosis

When spathiphyllum is starved, the leaves turn yellow unevenly. For example, a "mosaic" color appears, that is, green spots remain on a yellow background, or vice versa. The veins are discolored or, conversely, the veins remain green, and the leaf plate turns yellow. Yellowing of leaves against a background of green veins is a manifestation. All other uneven yellowing can be associated with a lack of a variety of trace elements, in particular boron, calcium.


The lack of iron and other trace elements is reflected in the leaves of the spathiphyllum. They turn yellow and become irregular in color.

What to do?

Yellowing of spathiphyllum against the background of starvation can be easily eliminated with the help of fertilizing and soil enrichment. You need to do the following:

  • Transplant the spathiphyllum into new, light, loose soil. The reaction of the soil is slightly acidic.
  • Spray the plant with iron chelate - when diagnosing iron chlorosis or complex fertilizer containing trace elements (boron, calcium, iron) - with a general lack of nutrients.
  • 2-3 weeks after transplantation - feed spathiphyllum with complex fertilizer.
  • All this time, water the plant with well-settled or boiled warm water, spray with water 2 times a day.

Reason number 3. Aging leaves

If the lower old leaves of spathiphyllum turn yellow, then this is a natural process that does not require any intervention. Old leaves die, new ones will come to replace them. Yellowing can only be considered a problem if the process involves young leaves.

Symptom number 4. Withering leaves of spathiphyllum

If the leaves of the spathiphyllum are grafted and hung like rags, you need to immediately take action. This symptom indicates that the roots of the plant are not getting moisture.

Reason # 1. Overdrying an earthen coma

This is the most common reason. Spathiphyllum withers when the soil in the pot is dry and requires watering.


Such a spathiphyllum needs to be watered urgently!

What to do?

In order for the leaves of the spathiphyllum to regain turgor, it is enough to water the plant. In some cases, if the soil is very dry or peat is used as a soil, simple watering from above may not give an effect. Then it is recommended to water the soil from above, as usual, and then immerse the pot with the plant in a saucepan (bucket, basin) with water for 15-20 minutes.

Reason # 2. Inhomogeneous ground

It so happens that after watering the leaves recover for a while, and then wither again. Despite the fact that the soil looks still damp! This means that the roots of the plant, located inside the pot, are in a dense, non-hygroscopic lump of soil that cannot be moistened with water during normal watering. Such a nuisance happens if, after the purchase, the spathiphyllum was transplanted into a new flower soil while preserving the store peat substrate on the roots. Such a substrate dries very quickly and turns into an impenetrable lump. At the same time, the new flower soil, into which the transplant was performed, retains water well and remains moist after watering. But water does not flow to the roots, since a dry lump of peat is retained on them.

What to do?

To prevent the leaves from withering, the store soil will have to be removed. To do this, rinse the roots in water and carefully remove the peat lumps from them. Then transplant the spathiphyllum into a homogeneous, light soil.

Reason number 3. Decay of roots

Root decay occurs as a result of the bay. In this case, the leaves wither in the same way as when dry. The only difference is that when drying, it is enough to shed the earth for the roots to absorb moisture and the leaves to recover. When the roots decay, watering will no longer help; on the contrary, it will aggravate the situation: the leaves will wither with a vengeance.

A sign of root decay: the soil in the pot is constantly wet, despite the fact that watering has been carried out for a long time. Decaying roots do not absorb moisture from the soil, respectively, the plant is sick, does not receive water and nutrients. Unfortunately, root rot is an insidious disease that is not always quickly diagnosed. A novice flower grower, seeing that the spathiphyllum has wilted, will most likely begin to water it more and more. Until the flower is completely ruined!


If after the gulf the soil was not dried and an impenetrable swampy layer formed at the bottom of the pot, then the spathiphyllum is doomed to root rot

What to do?

If root decay is diagnosed, transplant the spathiphyllum into new soil with preliminary cutting of all decaying parts of the root. The transplant can be done as follows:

  • Remove the spathiphyllum from the pot.
  • Rinse the roots in water (in a bucket of water), gently freeing them from old soil.
  • Cut all rotten roots with a clean knife to healthy tissue. Slices - dust with crushed activated charcoal or cinnamon.
  • Leave the plant to dry for 2-3 hours.
  • Plant the spathiphyllum in a new, light soil with the addition of activated carbon (to prevent rotting of the slices). Be sure to add a good layer of drainage (2-3 cm at least) to the bottom of the pot to prevent water stagnation at the bottom of the roots. There should be drainage holes in the bottom of the pot (if there are few of them, make a few more with a nail or a hot screwdriver). No need to water right away! The parquet ground is initially damp, this is enough to support the life of the "amputated" roots.
  • After 2-3 days, when the new soil dries out, pour the transplanted spathiphyllum with warm, settled (ideally, boiled) water with the addition of Kornevin.

Symptom number 5. Spathiphyllum does not grow

Spathiphyllum does not increase the green mass: it does not release new leaves, does not give growth.

Reason # 1. Big pot

Remember that at first the spathiphyllum builds up the root system, and then begins to deal with the leaves. Therefore, if you transplanted the plant into a pot that is too large, you will have to wait for the root system to grow and entangle a clod of earth. Only after this will the growth of green mass begin.


Such a pot is too large for a young spathiphyllum. I need a transplant!

What to do?

If you don't want to wait several months, you will have to transplant the spathiphyllum into a tighter pot - 1-2 cm larger in diameter than the root system.

Reason # 2. Inappropriate lighting

Spathiphyllum can inhibit growth with too intense or, conversely, poor lighting.

What to do? Move the spathiphyllum to a well-lit place without direct sunlight.

Symptom number 6. Spathiphyllum does not bloom

Under suitable conditions, spathiphyllum can bloom 2-3 times a year. But the expectation does not always become a reality. And then the question arises: "Why does spathiphyllum not bloom?" There may be several reasons for this.

Reason # 1. Pot too big

Spathiphyllum will begin to bloom only after its roots are completely entwined with an earthen ball in a pot. Therefore, if you transplanted a plant into an oversized pot, you can wait for flowering for several years.

What to do?

Pick a new pot for the spathiphyllum. For this representative of the aroid family, close, low pots are suitable. In diameter - 1-2 cm larger than the root system.

Reason # 2. Lack of feeding, hunger strike

If the spathiphyllum has not been transplanted for a long time, the soil in the pot has become impoverished or did not initially contain the necessary nutrients, you can not wait for flowering. In addition to the absence of flowering, the hunger strike is also indicated by the general disease state of the plant, yellow or small leaves. There is another situation: spathiphyllum looks healthy, produces large green leaves in large quantities and does not bloom at the same time. This means that the plant "fattens", that is, consumes a large amount of nitrogen, which stimulates the growth of green mass to the detriment of flowering. We conclude: there is a lot of nitrogen in the soil in which spathiphyllum grows, but there is a lack of elements responsible for flowering - potassium and phosphorus.


Spathiphyllum may look healthy, "fatten", but not bloom if there is a lot of nitrogen in the soil and lack of phosphorus and potassium

What to do?

If the pot in which the spathiphyllum grows is of normal size, and there has been no flowering for a long time, feed it with a complex fertilizer with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium (for flowering). For the fastest effect, you can apply stimulants spraying - "Bud", "Domotsvet", etc.

Reason number 3. Lack of lighting

Spathiphyllum is a shade-tolerant plant. The term "shade-tolerant" means that the plant is contraindicated in direct sunlight. But! And a deep shadow is also useless. For spathiphyllum, you need to choose a well-lit place with a lot of diffused light. Spathiphyllum will not bloom in full shade.

What to do?

It is necessary to rearrange the spathiphyllum from a deep shadow to a more illuminated place.

Symptom number 7. Spathiphyllum flowers turn green

Some time after the appearance of a new flower, do you notice that its snow-white original color takes on a green tint? This is how all spathiphyllums behave. Fading bedspreads of flowers are painted in greenish tones. Naturally, this feature does not require any adjustment.