Decorating the oven with ceramic tiles with your own hands. How to overlay the oven with tiles yourself? Furnace lining algorithm

Facing the stove with tiled or ceramic tiles is not only an aesthetic effect. Their smooth surface is less prone to dirt, it is easier to wash, it acquires water-repellent properties. Finishing increases the life of the stove and makes it a real hot heart of a cozy and warm home for many years.

The cladding (tiles, plaster layer) is removed from the old furnace. When working, use protective equipment to protect your eyes and respiratory organs. A new furnace must be operated for at least a month before finishing, so that the structure shrinks and possible defects appear.

Foundation preparation. The stove must have the correct shape and a flat surface. All planes should be thoroughly cleaned of traces of mortar, dust and other contaminants, it is best to do this with a metal brush. From the masonry joints, the old mortar hits 5-10 mm deep - this will ensure better adhesion of the new finishing layer. Then the surface is again cleaned with a brush from dust.

A wire mesh (with tension) is attached to the surface of the furnace with nails and washers - its installation will reduce the risk of peeling the lining. Nails are hammered into the seams with a step of 500 mm.

Then the surfaces are plastered with a mortar for tiles or a mixture of clay, cement and sand (3: 1: 0.2) with the addition of PVA glue. Read more about how to plaster a brick surface.

To level the surface of the furnace, plastering in two passes is required. The thickness of the layers should not exceed 5 mm, the second plastering is carried out only on condition that the first layer is completely dry. Before leveling the furnace, it is desirable to heat it, and start plastering when the surface cools down to 30 - 35 degrees.

After the second plaster layer has dried, treat the surface with a deep penetration heat-resistant primer.

A gap should be left between the floor and the lining of the stove to the height of the tile and the tile joint, so the bottom row of tiles should be supported by a profile or a wooden lath 5-10 mm thick - attach it to the stove strictly horizontally. Be sure to mark the layout on the surface of the furnace using a level and a plumb line.

Laying tiles. The working solution is prepared in small portions. The tile is laid according to the scheme (we will consider the layout with a shift) from the bottom to the top. The furnace is pre-heated so that the work is carried out at a temperature of the plastered surface of about 30 - 35 degrees. Laying tiles should start from the bottom corner, with the installation of corner elements. Apply the adhesive to the tiles with a notched trowel. If the surface of the stove is uneven, it is better to use a trowel to avoid air bubbles under the tiles - they contribute to cracking of the lining due to uneven heating. The optimal thickness of the adhesive layer is indicated by the manufacturer of the mixture on the package.

The tile with a layer of glue is applied to the surface, pressed, gently tapped with a rubber mallet. To make the seams even, use crosses or other templates of a suitable size. The next row is laid out after the completion of the previous one, work starts again from the corner.

Remove excess adhesive from the surface of the tile immediately with a damp sponge, being careful not to move the laid elements.

At the final stage, the seams are filled with a grout mixture (you can read how to grout the tile seams here) - use a rubber spatula for this. The lining looks good with concave seams, they can be formed with a finger or a tube of a suitable diameter. Gently wipe the facing from traces of grout, without touching the seams.

All the work is over, we admire the result.

After 3 - 4 weeks after completion of work, the furnace can be put into operation.

Video on the topic "lining the oven with ceramic tiles with your own hands":

Cladding features

A popular material for lining furnaces is tile.

It is believed that ceramic tiles are best suited for finishing brick ovens, since the difference in thermal expansion coefficients in this case does not play a big role. The brick does not heat up as quickly and strongly as metal, but heats up gradually. The same can be said about the ceramic coating. A properly folded double-circuit brick oven does not have local overheating, and the bricks in it do not move from heating and cooling. This design can be finished using almost any masonry mortar.

In a single-circuit furnace, there are often places that overheat relative to the rest of the surface. During the operation of such a stove, bricks may slightly move under the influence of high temperature.

To ensure that the lining does not suffer in this case, it is important to choose the right adhesive solution. A strong cement-based composition will be strong enough so that the tile does not fall off the surface, but such a solution can damage the cladding material itself, splitting it into pieces

A weak clay mortar will not break the tile, but it will not hold it properly on the surface of the furnace. The best option in this case is heat-resistant silicone sealant.

Silicone sealant must be applied pointwise to the tile in five places: in the corners and in the center. Then the part should be fixed on the plane and left until the composition hardens. The tile on such a solution is held firmly, and the cladding retains the desired elasticity.

After completing the preparatory work at home, you need to start finishing - you will need to fix a wood rail at the bottom of the stove (as you can see in the photo). It should be positioned so that it is the width of one side of the tile to the floor. Using the building level, you need to measure how evenly the rail is located.

Facing the oven with ceramic tiles with your own hands is carried out as follows - to begin with, the second row of tiles is laid in the first row, if you count from the floor. Mounting is carried out on a wooden rail from the corner of the furnace. This is necessary to avoid distortions in the future. A thermal adhesive is applied to one tile using a flat trowel, which must be leveled with a notched trowel. When using glue, you must follow all the recommendations listed in the instructions.

The tile is applied to the surface of the stove, after which it is gently pressed with the palm of your hand. To make the lining of the furnace with ceramic tiles better, it is necessary to improve the fit, for which you can use a rubber mallet, as in the photo. It is better to clean the remains of the glue immediately with a damp cloth, so the finish will look attractive.

To ensure smooth seams, you need to use plastic crosses that are removed before the grouting procedure. All distortions and resulting irregularities must be corrected immediately upon detection, so that the glue does not dry out, and the lining of the furnace with ceramic tiles looks neat. After removing the rail, the last bottom row is laid. If there is a need, then the tile is cut for finishing.

After three days after the glue has dried, using a rubber spatula, it is required to fill the seams located between the tiles. For this, a special grouting solution is used, the excess of which is removed immediately. After the solution dries, the final cleaning of the surface is carried out, and the do-it-yourself lining of the furnace with ceramic tiles is completed.

Calculations

Furnace tiling

It all starts with the calculations of materials and the selection of tools, but before that, one more fact must be taken into account. If you are going to revet an old stove, the surface of which has lost its respectability, then nothing will have to be taken into account. However, if the stove has just been installed, you should give it time to shrink. And one day and even a week will not get off here. The ideal option would be to wait half a year, and during this period to carry out all the necessary calculations and make the right choice of tiles.

The simplest thing is to calculate the area of ​​​​all surfaces that you are going to veneer and make calculations, taking into account the dimensions of the selected one. Add 10-15% to the result, because during work you will have to not only change the unexpectedly broken tiles, but also cut some of them to size. You can choose a tile that will close one wall of the stove without excessive fitting. But when facing the other side, you still have to use a tile cutter.

In addition, the method of laying and the width of the seams should be taken into account.

If there are decorative inserts or details, it is better to buy them all in duplicate. It will turn out to be somewhat more expensive, but you won’t have to run around looking in case one of them suddenly breaks or gets damaged.

Furnace cladding with ceramic tiles

How to tile the oven with tiles so that it does not fall off? It is important to follow all measures for the preparation of the base. Only after they have been carried out, you can proceed directly to the cladding

If the work has not been done, the adhesive will not set properly and the tile will not stand up straight.

On glue

Not only the stove tiles in a residential building must match, but also the adhesive. The stove heats up to high temperatures, and in the furnace it even reaches huge scales. Therefore, the adhesive must withstand all these conditions. You can buy a ready-made version or make your own.
One of the homemade options: PVA glue, salt and Portland cement. But before choosing the option with self-production, think carefully. It is quite difficult to choose the proportions and observe all the stages of the technology exactly, and the strength of the fixation depends on the glue. Perhaps it is better to spend on the finished mixture.

Another difficult stage is cutting the material. The material is hard and durable and this part of the job does not seem easy. And cutting is a must. First, practice on unnecessary material and only then proceed to facing.

The first row is the basis for all the rest, so it is he who needs to be given special attention. Therefore, no fitting by eye

Take the cord and, using the building level, pull it from above along the level of the first row.

The first row comes from the corner. First, the elements on one side, then on the other, and only then the tiles are laid between. Check the very first tile with a level and if you need to adjust its position, use a mallet. Check the first row with a building level. And already the rest level on it.

After the entire tile is laid, you need to wait for the adhesive solution to dry completely. And then the turn of the grout. Get all the crosses and proceed. Grout can be applied in three ways. It is less convenient to work with a rubber spatula. A more suitable option is a construction pistol. It is quick and easy to work with him. And you can make a home version from a plastic bag, a solution is added there and a corner is cut off.
Excess mortar that has fallen on the tile must be removed immediately. Keep a sponge handy, but dry. Try to avoid the seams themselves. You can choose any color of the grout, but make sure that it is in harmony with the overall interior and the color of the tile.

Without glue

Facing the oven with tiles by the dry method differs dramatically. This option is more durable, because the tile is not glued, but installed on the frame. She doesn't care about exposure to temperatures or old plaster. In addition, the gap between the stove and the tile allows it to cool longer, which saves heat consumption.
The tile can be changed without the need to completely dismantle the coating. Simply remove the material from the profile and insert a new one.

This is convenient for those who like to frequently change the interior and saves in case of damage to one element.

The metal frame is the basis of the structure. First, markup is applied with a cord and a level. The lower guide is placed from below. The distance from the floor is equal to the width of the skirting boards. And then the upper line of the end of the masonry is marked.
Then the surface is lined along the width of the tile plus 2 mm. Aluminum corners and strips are attached to anchors.

Features of using ceramic tiles for lining stoves and fireplaces

Ceramic material is an ideal cladding option due to 2 important properties.

• First, ceramics withstand heating to very high temperatures.
• Secondly, the material perfectly accumulates heat. And this means that when the heating stops, the ceramic tile will give off the accumulated heat to the room for a rather long time.

These properties are associated with the porosity and density of the material, therefore, they are suitable for cladding on any KP.

• Any ceramic tile is obtained by firing at significant temperatures, but not all are designed for operation in conditions of constant heating and cooling. Used for lining stoves and fireplaces heat-resistant tiles. Products are marked with the letter T - heat-resistant. The coefficient of thermal expansion of such a material does not exceed 7-8%, which ensures the durability of the finish.

It is also worth paying attention to the number of firings: the material of double firing is characterized by higher strength and resistance to fire.

• Water absorption- at first glance, the parameter does not matter when facing such a "hot" object. However, with high water absorption, the porous material absorbs moisture from the damp air of the room. Then, when heated, the moisture increases in volume, which leads to the rapid destruction of the material. So only KP with wave absorption not higher than 3% is suitable for lining the furnace.
• Accumulating effect quite difficult to assess. It is not related to porosity, on the contrary: porous, that is, tiles with some thermal insulation effect, are not suitable for finishing. The material should conduct heat well, but at the same time accumulate it to some extent. There is one subtlety here: for example, such high-density ceramics as clinker, and even more so porcelain stoneware, conducts heat well and tolerates very high temperatures. However, the material accumulates heat much worse than ordinary terracotta, for example. , especially electric or gas clinker is quite suitable, but not for a furnace.
• wear resistance It doesn’t matter directly, and the strength of the material is already fair. For cladding, you can use tiles of any class.
• KP thickness is at least 8 mm: with a smaller value, ceramics will not be able to effectively accumulate heat.

The design of the products is extremely diverse even with such high requirements. The appearance of the tiles is selected based on the style and features of the interior, but, as a rule, both the fireplace and the stove are a kind of center of the room and are especially elegantly finished.

Do-it-yourself facing of furnaces with ceramic tiles (photo)

Oven measurement and tile calculation

After measuring the dimensions of the furnace, it is determined
type of material, the exact dimensions of one tile were clarified, the presence of decorative
elements and their parameters, you can begin to calculate how many tiles
needed to cover the oven.

To do this, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​​​the furnace, including
vertical and horizontal surfaces. It should be remembered that laying tiles
on the furnace provides for the presence of a seam gap (the distance between
tiles), which ranges from 2 to 10 mm. This area must be subtracted.

Note. The more complex the tile layout pattern, the more
material is cut. However, the smaller the tile, the less material
goes into marriage.

Users are advised to make an insurance stock in the amount
5% of the amount received. After all, the tile can fall off or burst in the process.
operation of the oven. Moreover, if there are several types of decorative elements, then
You need to have at least two pieces of each of them. It raises
the cost of tiling the oven with tiles, but it eliminates the thought of how to replace
missing lining element.

Note. Particularly accurate calculation must be carried out for tiles.

Methods for laying tiles on the stove

The second aspect that affects the volume of purchases of materials is
this is a way of laying tiles when facing a stove (fig.).

Laying tiles side by sidein straight rows (seam to seam, seam to seam) you can lay square or rectangular tiles. The application of this method is possible only when the tiles have the same geometric dimensions. It is suitable for laying out panels or patterns on
oven surface. In this case, it is desirable that the layout begin and end with whole tiles. It is this nuance that will not allow the method to take a leading position;

Laying tiles in dressingdisplacement (in dressing)
Laying tiles diagonallydiagonal line
styling "chaos"

A variety of facing tiles allows you to create your own ways of laying it, combining materials and creating unique patterns.

Types of tiles

The right choice of facing material is the key to its durability and good heat transfer.. What kind of tiles can be independently overlaid with a stove or fireplace?

1. Clinker tiles It is made on the basis of shale clay, therefore it has a coefficient of linear expansion similar to fireclay bricks. Clinker is characterized by high heat resistance and unique mechanical strength. It has a wide range of colors, from very light to colored shades. Clinker tiles are often used for lining kilns with high and uneven surface temperatures. The price of clinker is quite high, but its performance is excellent, and due to its small size, you can overlay the furnace with your own hands.
2. Terracotta- ceramic tiles made using high-temperature pressing. It has a porous structure, thanks to which the oven breathes, and is also highly durable. Terracotta shades are close to natural ceramics, the surface is matte. The disadvantage of terracotta is the tendency to stains from the evaporation of moisture, efflorescence.
3. Majolica- an analogue of terracotta, covered on top with colored glaze of completely different colors. With the help of terracotta tiles, you can create amazing compositions and embody any design solutions. Despite how complex and frilly this tile may seem, laying it yourself is not difficult.
4. Porcelain stoneware- a material with increased strength to static loads and almost zero moisture permeability. At the same time, it is quite fragile, with point impacts it can crack. Porcelain stoneware is obtained by dry pressing of kaolin clays. Porcelain tiles are represented by a huge number of collections and a variety of shades and textures.
5. Tile- the cheapest ceramic tile, at the same time often used for finishing furnaces. The main difficulty in tiling stoves is to compensate for the different coefficients of thermal expansion. Otherwise, tiles are an excellent choice, they are inexpensive, presented in various colors, most of the collections are completed with decorative elements that allow you to create a unique interior in the house.

The photo shows options for which tiles can be laid over the stove.

Video: how to overlay a stove with terracotta tiles

It is important not only to choose the right tile, but also to use the right mortar for laying it. . Conventional cement-sand is not suitable for this purpose due to the difference in temperature expansion.

When laying, it adheres firmly to brick and tile. When heated, the brick increases in size, while the mortar layer cracks, and then the tile can crack. Cycles of heating-cooling destroy such lining sooner or later.

Ordinary cement-sand is not suitable for this purpose. due to the difference in temperature expansion. When laying, it adheres firmly to brick and tile. When heated, the brick increases in size, while the mortar layer cracks, and then the tile can crack. Cycles of heating-cooling destroy such lining sooner or later.

Not suitable and clay solution for laying the oven. It does not have a strong structure, and thanks to a similar material it will expand with the brick, while the tile will retain its dimensions. As a result, the adhesion between them will deteriorate, and the tile will fall off.

Optimal solution- use a special tile adhesive with heat resistance and plasticity. Experienced stove-makers for lining stoves with their own hands are advised to use Plitonit SuperKamin compositions for lining and plastering in Russia, made on the basis of the developments of the German concern MC-Bauchemie, or the Finnish composition SkanfixSuper.

Tools and materials

There are several options for attaching tiles to the stove. The first method is the most famous - mounting on glue. But it is also possible to install without an adhesive mixture - on a metal profile. The second option is more mobile. If you need to remove one element, it's easy to do.
Depending on the chosen installation method, the necessary materials and tools will also change. Preparation of everything you need should be done in advance, since in the process of work you can not be distracted by trips to the store. What you need:

• Sander;
• Tile cutter. In the process of cladding, you can not do without cutting the plates. It is easiest to do this with a special tool, but in extreme cases, use a grinder. True, there will be a lot of dirt and dust, you will have to work in a respirator and glasses and on the street;
• Putty knife. Several spatulas are needed. Toothed for taking and applying the solution. Flat and angled for comfort and rubbery for seams. You can use other options for filling the seams: a construction gun or a simple version with a plastic bag;
• Level and plumb. These tools are needed to check the evenness of the rows. You will also need a ruler, tape measure and a rule;
• Master OK;
• A bucket for preparing mortar and grout. You won’t be able to knead all this by hand, so you need a drill with a mixer nozzle;
• mallet for adjustment;
• Spray;
• Sponge for wiping excess;
• Primer and brush for its application.

If you plan to install on a profile, then the solution and the container for mixing it will not be needed. In this case, prepare metal scissors, a wooden beam and a steel corner. In addition to all of the above, you will need the tile itself.

Keep a spare material in case of damage during transport or work. Plaster and glue, grout.

Care and maintenance

It should be remembered that any ceramic tile is a fragile material, so when using a poker, tongs or other tools, you should be careful and avoid accidental impacts on the cladding.

If it is necessary to clean the tiles from dirt, it is not allowed to use acidic, abrasive detergents, as well as bleaches. Grease stains are removed with a warm solution of ordinary baking soda, you can also use a non-abrasive chlorine-containing detergent. Stains of glue, resin, paint are reduced with acetone or gasoline. In extreme cases, you can also use an acid-based agent, but only pointwise.

If the tile is glazed, it must be treated with a water repellent before washing. It should be remembered that the glaze is especially sensitive to abrasion.

Video: finishing the stove with tiles on homemade corners

Since the stove willy-nilly becomes part of the interior, its decoration is mandatory. Tiles are the most suitable option because, unlike plaster, they are easy to install and keep clean without much effort. Having familiarized yourself with all the intricacies of the furnace finishing process, you can create a high-quality and durable cladding.

What tiles can be used for cladding

Ceramic tiles are the most affordable way of finishing, but also very stable in operation. Even at the production stage, the tile is subjected to heat treatment - the pattern is baked at a temperature of 480-500C. Such material is resistant to temperature peaks, does not burst when exposed to water, and is easy to clean. Since the choice of adhesives and mixtures is also huge, it will not be difficult to tile the stove with your own hands.

Video 1 Wall tiling with ceramic tiles

So, what kind of tiles can be laid over the stove and fireplace, in addition to the standard one:

Terracotta- unglazed with a characteristic roughness on the front side. It is made from refractory clay and fired at a temperature of 500C. The color is uniform throughout the lot, the natural color range varies from creamy to rich terracotta.

Majolica- a more expensive and improved sample, which is made according to the principle similar to terracotta, but a pattern is applied to the front side and additionally fired. Not so long ago, it was extremely expensive to overlay a stove with majolica tiles.

Tile- a unique, primordially Slavic material for finishing furnaces. The technology for manufacturing such material has been developed since the first half of the 17th century, when the reliefs of monasteries and churches began to be decorated with wide tiles.

Today, baked clay is used for production, which is then glazed and baked at a temperature of 1150C. They can be embossed, smooth, glazed or raw. For convenient fastening, the reverse side is designed in the form of a box (rump).

If in the case of terracotta and majolica, you can simply cover the stove with ceramic tiles, then the tiles are laid out even at the construction stage.

Clinker- refractory tiles, used from a mixture of fireclay powder, clay and appropriate mineral dyes. Can be used for exterior and interior decoration. It is characterized by high strength and resistance to damage.

Porcelain stoneware- especially durable tiled material, which is made from the composition of clay, sand, fine marble and granite waste. Fired at a temperature of 5500C, it is characterized by a monolithic structure and resistance to abrasion and damage. Used to imitate more expensive materials.

Porcelain stoneware and clinker are the most durable in the range of materials, but also the heaviest. For their laying, a separate technology and a special adhesive composition are used. Masonry always starts from the bottom and moves evenly up to the ceiling.

Since ceramic tiles are the most popular and inexpensive material for decorating furnaces (see video), it is worth starting with it.

Preparatory process

Necessary tools and materials:

• mallet (rubber mallet);
• tile cutter, grinder and string;
• drill;
• level and plumb;
• spatulas;
• metal brush;
• ceramic tile;
• mesh for reinforcement, fiberglass;
• heat-resistant primer;
• heat-resistant glue for stoves and fireplaces;
• nails with dowels;
• crosses for seams;
• white or colored grout.

It is forbidden to tile the oven immediately after its laying. It must take at least 5-6 months, including the heating season, for the oven to shrink technically. During the operation of the furnace, not only the solution is pressed, but also weak points “crawl out” - cracks, holes, etc., which can be repaired.

1. You clean the surface of the furnace from dust, dirt and cement residues - first you just wipe it with a dry cloth, then you clean it with a metal mesh or rub it with a grinder. Finally, the walls are washed from dust. Pay special attention to the seams between the bricks, they should be thoroughly cleaned.
2. Apply a primer mixture, be sure to refractory.
3. After the primer dries, level the walls with a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 3: 1. Recommended brand of cement M400. The wall must be absolutely flat, including the seams. You check each stack with a level or a plumb line. After drying, rub with a wooden float for better adhesion.

Photo 1 Leveling the walls of the furnace with cement mortar

1. Fix the reinforcing mesh, and better, of course, fiberglass. This is a thinner and stronger analogue, which does not give additional weight, unlike the mesh, and also securely fastens the bases. Use nails to secure.

How to ennoble stoves and fireplaces in a private house with your own hands Finishing methods

A folded stove does not always look complete and in almost all cases, it requires additional intervention with the help of finishing materials.

If for one owner the functionality of the device is enough, and he does not want to cover it with anything other than plaster, then for another, it is important that the guests of his house are amazed by the elegance of artificial stone or properly selected tiles.

Plaster

This type of finish is a coating of the oven with the same mortar, which was used for masonry.

It not only loses to other materials in terms of external components, but also reduces efficiency by 5-10%, reducing the thermal conductivity of the furnace.

The time for heating the walls is increased by 20-30% .

Therefore, before applying the plaster, you need to think about whether it is worth saving or additional investments are possible.

Reference. Plaster without the use of top material looks dull, but significantly save money if the task is only the practical use of the furnace, that is, heating the room.

Whitewash

Even our ancestors whitewashed the stove for each season, since expensive materials were not available to all people. In order to whitewash the oven, you do not need to have great skill. This the easiest way to finish: applied to the oven lime or chalk mortar. It is important to remember that this type of coating requires a careful attitude on the part of the residents, since the white color is easily soiled.

Coloring

Modern manufacturers produce various heat-resistant paints. It is this type of material that is needed when covering the surface of a folded furnace, since its wall will often be thermally affected during ignition. Optionally painted surface can be coated with a special varnish.

Photo 1. Painting the stove with white paint. When facing such products, it is necessary to choose heat-resistant materials.

Can it be coated with clay

The use of clay mortar to strengthen the furnace is justified by the fact that it contains sand, strengthening the surface of the walls And providing additional protection from chips and other cracks. This type of decoration is not original and is used mainly for practical purposes, which do not involve giving the house an individuality and embodying design ideas.

Decorative artificial stone: plaster, acrylic. A photo

Many homeowners wish to see their stove lined with stone. But not everyone can afford to buy expensive materials. For these purposes, apply fake diamond for decor, which in many properties is not only not inferior to natural, but also has additional positive characteristics:

• simple masonry with which even a novice craftsman is able to cope;
• laid out oven will not be bulky, because the material light in structure;
• cost savings when choosing a finish;
• wide range of shapes And color schemes;
• opportunity to realize various creative fantasies, in interior design.

In addition, the material differs in structural diversity:

• Gypsum dough. Outwardly, it resembles natural sandstone, has good strength characteristics.

Photo 2. Finishing the fireplace and the walls next to it with artificial stone based on gypsum dough.

• acrylic stone. Even more durable than the previous version.

Photo 3. Fireplace with acrylic stone cladding, the color of which resembles natural marble.

• Artificial stone with the presence of natural stone chips.
• Porcelain tile. It consists of several types of clay, mineral salts, marble chips and pigments. Great resistance to mechanical damage and high temperatures.

Photo 4. Fireplace with black porcelain stoneware tiling.

• Heat resistant composite. The material is made on the basis of concrete, quartz or minerals. The strength can be compared with granite.

Training

The simplest method by which the lining of the stove can be carried out is to apply plaster to the surface. Instead of the once familiar clay mixture, various types of heat-resistant plaster are used in our time. Dry formulations are commercially available, which should be diluted with water before use according to the instructions. Experts recommend starting any type of cladding after waiting a month after the end of the masonry work. Since for such a period the masonry has time to dry well and shrink. Whatever method of cladding and cladding material is chosen, the surface must be carefully prepared for the application of plaster and the actual laying procedure. It is from these works that it directly depends on whether plaster and tile adhesive will lie well on the surface.

Finishing stoves with tiles is very durable, it does not have to be updated every 2 to 3 years. A tiled fireplace or stove not only looks aesthetically pleasing. After all, the tile allows you to save the plaster layer, has an increased heat capacity and, heating up, fills the entire room with heat. It allows you to create an interesting design to your taste. First you need to remove the existing layer of plaster from the surface. In this case, the wall needs to be well soaked, for which ordinary water is used. A tool such as a spatula will help you with this. If the solution was not made of clay, but with the addition of cement, you will need to use a hammer and chisel. Next comes the cleaning with an iron brush or grinder. The surface is treated with a spray gun, the seams are cleaned to a depth of 10 cm.

After drying, the surface is well primed and left to dry completely. Experts recommend not to spare the primer and apply it in several layers. Immediately before laying the tiles, the walls are checked with a building level and a plumb line for straightness. If differences are found, they will have to be leveled. This is followed by the placement of metal beacons. If knocked down corners are found when removing old plaster, they need to be strengthened by reinforcing with perforated metal corners. It is advised to fix the reinforcing fiberglass mesh on the set plaster layer - on a thin layer of glue. After drying, another layer of mesh is made.

If you plan to install tiles on glue, then it is better to cover the plastered dry surface with a primer again.

When the installation of the finishing material is carried out on a metal frame, the fasteners of which are made on the old one, there is a high probability that the entire structure will be able to move away from the wall surface. Preparation for decorative finishing includes the purchase of tools and materials necessary for the work.

Preparatory measures before starting the installation of tiles

Before you go to the hardware store to purchase everything you need for cladding, you need to measure the surface area that will be converted and calculate how many tiles, mortar and other necessary materials will be needed to implement your plan. At the same time, it is worth considering the possible unevenness of the walls of the heating structure (especially in old houses), which requires a greater consumption of the mixture in order to level the surface before starting the installation of tiles. Due to the fact that oven walls are exposed to high temperatures, it is better not to use ordinary tile adhesive, but to purchase a heat-resistant adhesive mixture.

The surface on which the mounting mixture will be applied must not have any unstable elements, as this may affect the strength of the tile. Therefore, it is necessary to tear off the old plaster from the stove wall and clean it of everything that may subsequently fall away from it. For this job, which is best done with a respirator, you can use an old spatula and a wire brush. Treating the wall with a heat-resistant primer will help complete the preparation of the surface for interaction with the adhesive mixture.

If you have ever glued ceramic tiles on drywall, then you most likely applied the mounting adhesive with a notched trowel, but in this case this method will not work because the surface of the walls of the heating block is rather uneven. It would be good, before tiling the fireplace or stove, to trim the base surface by applying a layer of heat-resistant mounting adhesive. But before that, it is necessary to fix a metal reinforcing mesh on the prepared wall. This can be done by pressing it against the wall with pieces of tin, nailed into the seams between bricks or fixing dowels into holes pre-drilled with a perforator

It is important that the mesh of the ball is well stretched and firmly pressed against the wall.

When mixing mounting adhesive, you can use a conventional electric drill with a mixing nozzle, but it is better to use a special construction mixer so as not to spoil the drill gearbox.

You can continue the implementation of the plan after the substance of the leveling layer is completely dry.

Furnace tiling

To give the oven an attractive look, you can finish it with tiles. There is a special, heat-resistant tile for stoves, but it costs a lot. There are special tiles, but they are laid at the stage of construction of the furnace (they cost even more). For the most part, ordinary ceramic tiles are used for facing the stove. If it is of normal quality and laid correctly, nothing happens to it. There are two restrictions:

• use tiles of small formats, as it is noticed that it holds better;
• do not use gypsum-based tiles - they greatly reduce heat transfer.

Furnaces are plastered for cladding mainly with cement compositions. When the clay dries, it shrinks very much, which is why the tile inevitably falls off. Moreover, it is advised to use one composition for plastering and gluing tiles - this is a guarantee of good adhesion.

A few more technological points that relate to laying tiles near furnace casting and other metal elements. The gap between the edges of the tile and the metal should be about 5 mm. This gap must be left empty, without mortar. It is subsequently laid with an asbestos cord, and covered with tile glue on top, rubbed with grout. So when heated, the metal will not tear and will not squeeze out the tile.

An example of tiling a stove door

First technology: with pre-plastering

Masters who are engaged in finishing brick ovens advise to plaster the oven first. After the plaster has dried, it will be possible to glue the tiles on a special heat-resistant adhesive. If you adhere to this technology, then the preparatory stage will be exactly the same as with plastering (described above):

• we embroider the seams by 1 cm;
• we nail / weave a grid;
• we wet the oven;

Apply and level plaster.

Glue the tiles on the plastered stove

After the plaster has dried, tiles are glued using conventional technology. Some masters put tiles on a heated oven, others on a warm one. There are styling options without heating. The technology is no different from ordinary finishing work, with the only difference being that the seams are made larger - from 3 mm and try to leave them unfilled.

An example of tiling a stove

To maintain the seams use all the same crosses. They are then filled with gypsum grout, which is more elastic and less prone to cracking. In this case, the seams compensate for thermal expansion.

Technology two - immediately on the glue

If the surface of the furnace is initially flat, but the appearance of the bricks has let us down, you can try gluing the tiles directly onto the brick. Only it must be clean, without any dirt or dust. Take heat-resistant glue for lining stoves or fireplaces (there are some). Dilute strictly according to the instructions, also according to the instructions, apply the composition to the tile and glue it to the brick.

There is one trick: if the format of the tile is such that it overlaps several bricks, the glue should be on only one of them. The rest are left empty. The solutions have a high degree of adhesion and hold well even in this scenario. And this method allows you to bypass the different magnitudes of thermal expansions of different materials (the seams expand more, because of which the tile pasted on two bricks can break). But this furnace lining technique has a minus: voids filled with air do not conduct heat well, heat transfer drops significantly. In this case, there is one way out: to buy tiles to match the size of the brick. It is difficult to find the required sizes, but some craftsmen from large format cut a smaller one with the required dimensions.

Find or cut tiles to fit bricks

There is a technology that combines the two described above. The oven is upholstered with masonry mesh with 50 * 50 mm, wire diameter 0.5-1 mm. They nail the mesh with staples - powerful from a construction pistol, or by making them from finishing nails. The mesh should fit snugly. Tiles are laid on this base without prior plastering. The disadvantage of this technology is the high consumption of expensive glue.

Adhesive for tiles on the stove

What tile adhesive can be used in this technology? The following heat-resistant brands showed themselves normally:

• Plitonite VT;
• Retainer;
• Emelya's glue from the Pyramid company, suitable even for finishing with a torn stone;
• Ceresit 17;
• Refractory;

Ragged stone glued on Emelya glue

Which tiles can be used Tips for choosing the material

A tiled stove can be the centerpiece of a room's design.

The tile that is used to finish the stove must meet certain requirements:

1. The material must be heat resistant, as it will have to be exposed to high temperatures frequently.
2. Strength is another important characteristic, because the durability of the cladding depends on this parameter.
3. The tiles should also be hydrophobic and easy to maintain.
4. The gas-tightness of the coating is also considered a necessary requirement, since the lining of the furnace protects the air in the room from combustion products.
5. You can not ignore the environmental friendliness of the tile. The material during the heating process should not release harmful substances into the atmosphere.
6. Resistance to mechanical stress is a feature that will allow the coating to maintain an attractive appearance for a long time.

Several types of cladding meet the above requirements: porcelain stoneware, clinker and terracotta tiles, majolica, as well as tiles. Consider in detail the characteristics of these materials:

1. Clinker tiles are made on the basis of fireclay clay mixed with quartz sand, faience and feldspar. Clinker tiles are molded by extrusion, after which they are fired at high temperature. Among the advantages of such a material can be called its high strength, wear resistance, hardness, resistance to aggressive chemicals and temperature extremes. The appearance of clinker tiles imitates brick, the color scheme of such a finish is represented by yellow, gray, terracotta, dark and light brown shades.
2. Porcelain stoneware is a material that is made from white kaolin clay, feldspar, sand and various mineral additives. It is these additives that are responsible for the appearance of the cladding. Porcelain stoneware products are molded by pressing or extrusion, after which they are fired in tunnel kilns. Such material is considered one of the most durable and hard types of cladding.. It tolerates high temperatures, mechanical and chemical influences well, has a finely porous structure, and is not afraid of sudden changes in temperature. Clinker tiles are an economical finishing option, since such material is relatively inexpensive.
3. Terracotta tiles are made by combining terracotta and fireclay clay, as well as minerals: chromium, manganese, cobalt. After molding, the products are fired once at a temperature of 1000 °C. Terracotta tiles are characterized by high porosity and heterogeneous relief; they look like natural stone or fireclay bricks. This material has high heat resistance and tolerates sudden temperature changes well. The color range of the tiles is not too wide and is represented by sand and brown shades.
4. Majolica is a decorative finishing material of Italian origin. Majolica is made from fireclay and kaolin clay with the addition of faience and calcium. After molding by pressing, the products are subjected to high-temperature firing at least twice. The strength of such tiles is many times higher than the strength of reinforced concrete. The material does not enter into chemical reactions with alkalis and acids, has good water-repellent properties, and also has high decorative qualities.
5. Tiles are an ancient type of cladding made from Westerwald clay. Finished products are glazed, fired and painted by hand, so the material belongs to expensive types of finishes. The tiles are well tolerated by repeated cycles of heating and cooling, they are durable and resistant to chemically aggressive substances. Their surface repels water and is easily cleaned of dirt. The main advantages of such a tile are its high decorative qualities, as well as a long service life, which is tens of years.

About tiles

A tiled stove is a truly luxurious building, even dilapidated, see fig. However, tiling is definitely not one of those works that can be performed by studying the technology from the descriptions; this matter is even more delicate, requiring experience and accuracy than facing with natural stone.

Tiled stoves and fireplaces

Tiles are prepared in general from the same kaolin mass as high-quality tiles. To harmonize according to the TKR and improve the heat engineering of the furnace, the tiles are molded box-shaped with a cavity - a ramp, pos. 1a next. rice. - which is filled with sand during the lining process. Mountain sand is needed with rough grains and a minimal admixture of clay; it does not swell from cyclic heating, does not sinter and does not cake. Tiles are placed on greasy clay masonry mortar; the clay used is white, the sand is the same mountain. Add half a glass to a glass of table salt to a bucket of the finished solution.

Furnace tiling

Before facing, the tiles are laid out and the layout sorted out, as in the case of wild stone, achieving even rows. The dimensions of the tiles are standardized by GOST from 1947, but the tolerance is quite large, approx. 1.5 mm. Less can not be achieved due to the properties of the material itself. With a lining height of 10 rows, the spacing of the seams can reach up to 15 mm, which, you yourself understand, is in no way acceptable.

Note: the basis of large art panels on tiles is laid out and adjusted by hand at the factory. Therefore, tiled panels are very expensive, but they are put in place without layout.

Facing with tiles is carried out in order, tying the tiles with steel pins and wire. As a rule, the stove is tiled with tiles in the order of its construction, and the cladding must always be ahead of the masonry, as shown in pos. 3. In this case, the knitting of tiles is done with anchor loops, as in pos. 1b. Individual craftsmen (few qualitatively) are able to tile running stoves with tiles; in this case, knitting is done with anchor pins, pos. 2.

Decorating the stove in the house

The techniques that craftsmen can use for decoration are very diverse:

• painting;
• decoupage;
• use of stencils-stamps;
• decoration with decorative stone.

Various fragments of decorating elements introduced in certain places of the stove can make this heating device unique and memorable.

Photo gallery: successful examples of do-it-yourself oven decor

Furnace lining is an interesting and exciting process. Using imagination and applying your skills, you can create samples of unique heating devices. The stove, which looks like an orphan and miserable means of heating a room, is becoming a thing of the past. Currently, this device is becoming a full-fledged subject of any interior and, like all other elements of the interior, needs decoration.

Facing the furnace and its purpose

Furnace lining is a process of changing its appearance. At the same time, the furnace itself and the lining can be made from different materials.

Facing allows you to solve the following tasks:

• decorative;
• functional.

The decor of the stove can be completely different, it depends on the materials used and on the ideas of the designers. As for the functionality of the cladding, they must be taken into account when carrying out work independently.

It is very important that after changing the appearance of the furnace, its ability to perform its main task, which is to heat the room with high quality, is not lost. The heat transfer of the furnace with proper lining increases

The possibility of penetration of combustible materials from the firebox into the living room is excluded, because when facing the master of the furnace business, they do not leave any cracks or cracks in the furnace structure. Some flaws (for example, cracks that have appeared) can be completely corrected by performing high-quality lining.

An unlined furnace device becomes a source of dust accumulation. The surface of the “original” appearance of this heating device is much more difficult to care for, and the lined stove can be wiped down and any dirt removed. This allows not only to monitor its appearance, but also relieve allergy sufferers from problems.

The beauty of facing materials can make a big difference in the look of your oven.

Metal ovens

Be sure to note that it is not worth tiling metal furnaces with ceramic tiles due to the difference in the heating coefficients of these materials. Different times for heating and cooling metal and ceramics will lead to the fact that the outer ceramic layer of the furnace will become unusable - cracks, crevices, etc. will appear. The only way out in this case is to create a movable bond between the tile and the metal furnace. For such furnace structures, the technology of using clasps is common among professionals.

Brick is a suitable material for the outer lining of a metal furnace

brick ovens

Double-circuit brick ovens are most often lined with ceramic tiles. On the outer contour of this design, the tile keeps very well and at the same time does not need to be replaced with different brands. All work can be done with one material.

Single-circuit brick (“bathhouse”) stoves are lined with different mortars, adjusting both materials and bonding mixtures to different parts of the stove, paying special attention to local areas of strong heating. Porous durable material - porcelain stoneware - is best suited for "bath" stoves, as it is most suitable for rooms with frequent changes in temperature and humidity.

A variety of designs of ceramic tiles will help ennoble your brick oven

How to glue tiles

To independently carry out the laying of the material, you need to follow some rules. For example, laying should start from the bottom. The line for the first row is preliminarily beaten off and markings are made, which is impossible without a colored cord. It is placed horizontally, pulled back, and then released. According to the imprint, you can carry out a reliable fastener of a perforated metal corner. It is attached to the surface with dowels, between which a distance of 150 - 200 mm is left. The size of the corner should ideally correspond to the thickness of the tile.

Perforated corners are also fixed at the corners to beautifully decorate the corner joint. After preparing the wall and tiles, you can begin to prepare the adhesive solution. It is kneaded with an electric drill and a mixer nozzle in a container of a suitable size. After waiting at least 10 minutes, it is permissible to start laying the first row. To do this, the glue is applied with a spatula to an area designed for 5 to 7 pieces. Crosses are placed between the laid tiles in horizontal and vertical seams. They allow you to maintain the same thickness of the seams and are often installed 2 pieces on each side of the material. Sometimes, instead of crosses, they take pieces of drywall, for example, when large gaps must be left when facing.

How evenly the laying takes place will help control the building level. Later, the seam space is rubbed with a special grout. After laying out 4 - 5 rows, it is recommended to take a break from work for a couple of hours. Next, the masonry is completed, which is allowed to dry from 24 to 36 hours. Only grouts are suitable for the oven, the heat resistance of which is above +200 degrees. Modern compositions allow you to choose them according to the color of the material. Adhesive particles that have fallen on the surface of the tile are best removed immediately.

Ceramic tile option for soft heating

Glazed ceramic tiles are a very popular and inexpensive way of lining stoves and fireplaces. The only limitation for this material is the surface heating temperature. The tile does not have powerful hooks and locking joints to resist thermal deformation. Therefore, do not place it on stoves that get very hot during operation. For fireplaces (weak heating of the facade), it fits optimally.

Ceramic clinker tiles are an excellent "imitator". With it, you can "create" any kind of finish: brick, tile, wood, granite or marble.

For those who are looking for an original and inexpensive solution for facing a fireplace or stove, we advise you to try a combination of decorative bricks and ceramic tiles.

The combination of smooth and rough texture, dark and light tones will give the hearth a pleasant charm and charm.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for lining the furnace with your own hands

Finishing the oven with ceramic tiles using a metal mesh

Before laying the tiles, the oven must be covered with a special mesh. The fine-mesh metal mesh frame further strengthens the structure of the furnace and allows the mortar to adhere better to the surface. If, during the construction of the stove, pieces of wire were laid between the bricks, they can be used to fix the mesh on the working base. If there are no such segments, the mesh is fixed with screws or nails. The metal mesh should have good tension and fit as closely as possible to the surface.

Before gluing the tiles around the oven, a metal mesh frame is constructed.

After the construction of the frame, it is possible to prepare a cement-sand mortar and apply it to the furnace in an even layer. When starting such work, the stove must first be warmed up well, and only then put the solution on the heated surface. After that, work can be suspended for the time required for the complete drying of the solution.

A layer of cement-sand mortar is applied over the mesh frame

Decorative ceramic tiles are laid in rows, starting from the bottom. The adhesive composition is applied to the lining elements with a notched trowel. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 4 mm. Fixing each tile on the surface of the furnace, it is lightly tapped with a rubber mallet so that air bubbles come out of the adhesive solution, and the lining lies firmly on the base. The evenness of the masonry is constantly checked using a building level and a wooden slat.

During installation, the tiles are tapped with a rubber mallet.

The tile joints are not completely filled with mortar, leaving room for decorative grouting. To make the seams even, special plastic crosses are inserted into them. First, the surface is faced with solid tiles, and the remaining space is covered with fragments of the desired shape, cutting them off with a tile cutter.

Plastic crosses will help to make tile seams even and neat

At the end of all work, the stove is cleaned of mortar residues and construction dust. After 3 days, when the adhesive is completely dry, the tile joints are filled with decorative grout and they are jointed.

The seams are filled with grout and they are jointed

Technology using aluminum corners

In the process of finishing the furnace using corners, aluminum strips with holes are installed in the vertical seams of the brickwork. Then, with the help of bolts, aluminum corners are fixed on these strips. Ceramic tiles are laid between these corners.

In the process of such work, it is necessary to observe strict verticality of the seams.

After installing all the tiles, the space between them and the surface of the furnace is filled with mortar.

Soapstone sounds beautiful, but is it profitable

A well-organized marketing company works wonders. Therefore, today rave reviews about soapstone are heard everywhere. It is a common volcanic rock, heavy, strong and heat resistant. Why is it better than basalt, granite or sandstone, no one will clearly answer you. But in terms of cost, it is not inferior to elite marble delivered from Italy (from 7,000 rubles per 1 m2).

So far, soapstone has "taken root" only in baths and saunas, where heaters are lined with it. You can use it to finish the fireplace and stove, but there are more economical options.

The color range of this stone is quite poor. It is dominated by pale gray and greenish shades.

Do-it-yourself oven decoration

There are several types of do-it-yourself work on finishing a furnace device: plastering, ceramic tiling, painting, stone cladding, etc. It is not uncommon to use several materials at once.

Do-it-yourself ceramic tiling

After carrying out the preparatory work and collecting the necessary materials and tools, you can get to work.

1. Select the location of the furnace from which the ceramic plates will be glued. It is best to start from the right or left corner at the bottom. When laying out the tiles, check each of them for evenness, and also do not forget about the plumb line, using it to lay even rows. Use a notched trowel to apply the adhesive to the tiles.
2. Before laying out the lower first row, install a steel profile in the form of the letter "G" or an ordinary wooden lath, on which the first row will "lean". Fixing the bottom row in this case will be more reliable.
3. To make the seams between the tiles even and beautiful, use special mounting crosses.
4. You can adjust the position of the tiles with a rubber mallet, lightly tapping the ceramic surface.
5. Having laid out the main part with full-sized tiles, you can start facing areas where the whole tile does not fit. Using tile cutters, lay out all remaining areas of the oven gradually.
6. Try to erase the traces of the adhesive mass remaining on the tile until they harden, otherwise it will be much more difficult to do this.

Do not rush to grout the seams between the tiles until the glue is completely dry. Leave the oven alone for 2-3 days, and only then start grouting the seams. If you want to give the ceramics an even more presentable look, then cover the cladding with a colorless stone varnish with a soft brush (1-2 coats).

Facing with ceramic tiles helps to change the exterior for the better

Plastering

Applying plaster to the oven is the easiest way to transform the look of this device for warmth. Before proceeding with the finishing work, all owners of "newly made" stoves must withstand a month's time.

The most commonly used materials are dry heat-resistant mixtures. The prepared solution is applied in layers with a time period between them of at least four hours. The mixture for the first layer can be used in a more liquid state than for all subsequent layers. In total, 3-4 layers can be applied.

Plastering the stove is used by many of their owners, because it is much easier than lining

Coloring

For coloring, you can purchase various paints and whitewash. Moreover, the surface to be painted can be either brick or plastered. Whitewashing is most often used chalk or lime. So that the layers do not crumble in the future, masters of the furnace business are advised to add ordinary salt to the whitewash. This coloring option is suitable for adherents of the use of environmentally friendly materials.

There are also heat-resistant chemical compounds that can be used to paint the oven yourself: alkyd, silicate, silicon.

The color for painting the furnace device can be selected depending on the style of the room

stone finish

1. Priming of the working surface.
2. Laying out the first bottom layer with the help of a special compound. A level is a necessary tool when leveling rows.
3. Fragments of stone are cut with a grinder with a disc for concrete.
4. The seams between the masonry elements are embroidered with the help of plasterboard parts of the desired size.

   The choice of material (natural or artificial) often depends on the financial capabilities of the owner of the furnace device.

Furnace finish

The firebox is finished with the same materials as the stove itself. The main condition when choosing materials is safety, fire resistance, reliability, strength.

When designing a firebox, special attention should be paid to fire safety rules, because this part is most directly related to fire.

It is very important to leave a gap between the firebox and the stove lining. This is necessary for the free circulation of air, which affects the efficiency of its work as a whole.

It is undesirable to fill this gap with sand or heat-insulating material. It will become a reliable obstacle to the deformation of the facing material. If there is a gap, then the finishing material will not crack, voids and other negative aspects will not appear in it.

When using drywall constructions, leaving a gap will become an additional means of preventing fire. 10 centimeters is the smallest gap that must be left between the firebox and the stove for safety reasons.

11746 1

The Russian stove in Russia has always been an integral part of everyday life, smaller stoves were also widely used for heating and cooking.

All these devices can be divided into four types:

• heating ("Dutch", fireplace);
• cooking (barbecue, hearth);
• cooking and heating (hearth, "Russian", "Swedish");
• special (forge forge, for heating a greenhouse).

All these structures have a common characteristic - the material of manufacture, namely refractory brick, which exists in three types:

1. fireclay;
2. periclase;
3. quartz.

In everyday life, fireclay bricks made of refractory clay are used, which have a high coefficient of thermal conductivity and withstand large temperature fluctuations. Such a brick, laid by a qualified specialist, looks great in masonry, but sooner or later the owners get used to its aesthetics and look for a way to design a stove or fireplace somehow differently, better. And here, as an option, you can consider finishing with ceramic tiles.

Facing surfaces exposed to high temperatures and temperature fluctuations has a number of features, ignorance or ignorance of which will negate all efforts and financial costs. Consider how best to overlay a fireplace or stove with ceramic tiles so that the finishing result is aesthetic and durable.

Let's break down the entire scope of work on finishing the stove or fireplace into stages:

1. Marking surfaces and calculating the need for materials.
2. Choice of materials.
3. Surface preparation for tiling.
4. Laying ceramic tiles.
5. Seam grouting.

Marking and calculating the consumption of materials

The need for ceramic tiles is calculated by determining the area of ​​the outer surface of the furnace with an addition of 10%.

The consumption of tile adhesive, if purchased in a store, is indicated on the package. If the glue is prepared on its own, then it is better to do it in small portions of several kilograms in order to have time to use it before losing fluidity.

To reliably lay ceramic tiles on heating surfaces, you will also need self-tapping screws for concrete and stainless steel wire with a cross section of 0.8-1.0 mm, the number of which will depend on the size of the furnace.

Choice of ceramic tiles

We list which ceramic tiles and which auxiliary material can be used to overlay a stove or fireplace:

• terracotta;
• clinker tiles;
• porcelain stoneware;
• a natural stone;
• tiles.

Ceramic tiles for lining stoves and fireplaces should not be glazed, since the glaze and the base material of the ceramic have different coefficients of expansion when heated, which will lead to the formation of a noticeable web of cracks in the glaze. The exception is tiles, but the temperature regime of their operation differs significantly from the conditions of other heat-resistant facing materials, so the glaze of the tiles does not crack.

The format of the finishing material is chosen no more than 15 cm, since the geometry of a small-sized tile undergoes less linear changes when heated.

All of the listed finishing materials, except for natural stone, are made from various types of clay or based on it, therefore, they have increased heat resistance and heat transfer. With an increase in operating temperature, the strength of clay products, in contrast to cement-based materials, increases.

Choice of tile adhesive

Facing the furnace with ceramic tiles is carried out on a continuous layer of heat-resistant adhesive mixture, or by point application of a special heat-resistant sealant.

Heat-resistant glue, ready-made or self-made, is applied to the back surface of the ceramic tile with a layer of no more than 1 cm. There is no definite answer to the question of which of the ready-made compositions available for sale is better to use to cover the oven. The use of the following mixtures will be equally justified:

• reinforced, heat-resistant, highly adhesive adhesive for heated surfaces "Terracotta";
• heat-resistant adhesive Termix manufactured by Ivsil based on aluminate cement with a complex of chemical additives;
• hot-melt adhesive "Plitonit-SuperFireplace (W)" manufactured in Russia-Germany with reinforcing fibers, having a minimum expansion coefficient and suitable for preliminary leveling of surfaces;
• Skanfixsuper solution from the Finnish company SCANMIX.

Adhesive for dot sticker

For point fixing tiles to the stove, you can use Soudal red silicone sealant, the main purpose of which is to cut the brickwork between the stove and the wall in the house, but this compound also does an excellent job of attaching ceramics to heating surfaces.

However, it should be taken into account that the point method of gluing ceramic tiles reduces the heat transfer of the stove surface due to incomplete contact of the finish with the base.

Do-it-yourself heat-resistant adhesive solution

The adhesive composition, made by hand for tiling stoves and fireplaces, is made on the basis of M400 or M500 cement and clay. The weight proportions of all components of such glue are 4:2:2:1 (sand, clay, cement, liquid glass) with the addition of one kilogram of salt solution for each bucket.

To these mandatory components, you can add a dry mass of fiberglass, which will increase the resistance of the composition to cracking. The finished solution in consistency should resemble thick sour cream. It should be kneaded in portions in one bucket, as the solution is suitable for use within 1 hour.

Preparation of the base for facing

If the stove or fireplace in the house has been plastered or whitewashed, then these coatings are removed in an acceptable way from the base until the brickwork is exposed, and the mortar is removed from the joints around the bricks to a depth of 1 cm.

Over the entire area of ​​​​the brickwork of a pre-heated stove (in bricks, and not in a mortar), a drill with a carbide drill drills holes with a diameter of 5-6 mm to a depth of 50 mm in increments of 15 cm, after which the holes are countersinked with a drill of such a diameter as will allow in the future drown the head of the concrete screw into the brick. Self-tapping screws for concrete are screwed into the holes, leaving 1 cm of the screw length unscrewed above the surface.

Foundation priming

Dust is removed from the surface of the furnace, after which the base is primed in two layers with a brush or roller of one of the heat-resistant primers, for example, water-dispersion heat-resistant primer G-77. The time interval between applying primer layers is 1 hour, 2 hours after applying the second layer, finishing work can be continued.

Surface reinforcement

Without waiting for the primer to dry, a galvanized steel or stainless steel wire with a diameter of 0.8-1.0 mm is pulled over the heads of the self-tapping screws, forming a reinforcing cellular weave. Then, from ordinary glass with a thickness of 3-4 mm, strips 1 cm wide are cut, which are cut into pieces 2-3 cm long. the surface of the stove or fireplace.

Pre-plastering

Before overlaying with ceramic tiles, the warm surface of the oven is leveled by plastering with a purchased ready-made or self-made tile adhesive with a layer approximately 1 cm thick, carefully filling the voids in the joints around the bricks.

A solution applied to a warm surface will harden warm, its volume after cooling down with the oven will decrease, and along with an increase in the density of the adhesive, its strength will increase.

Laying tiles on a continuous layer of adhesive

A day after preliminary plastering, tiles can be laid on the same tile adhesive. Laying starts from the lowest row, applying mortar to the ceramics with a layer of no more than 5 mm with a flat spatula to reduce the likelihood of voids not filled with mortar under the tile. Between sheets of finishing material, gaps of a fixed size of at least 3 mm are left. The position of each product is checked immediately after gluing and immediately, if necessary, the ceramics are corrected, since the solution quickly sets on a warm surface.

Spot bonding of ceramics

For point gluing of tiles, heat-resistant silicone sealant is applied to 4 points in the corners on the back of the product, stepping back from the corners of 2-3 cm. it is 1.5-2.0 mm. A constant gap of 3 mm is maintained between the tiles, using fixing crosses of the appropriate size.

Grouting

One day after finishing the lining of the stove, grouting can be done.

With the method of laying tiles on a continuous layer of glue, the seams between the ceramics can be tightly caulked with an asbestos cord, and a layer of 1 mm of the same solution on which the lining was glued can be applied on top of it. If there was no asbestos cord available in the house, then the joints can be rubbed with heat-resistant silicone sealant.

The characteristics of heat-resistant adhesives allow them to perform grouting of joints. Their elasticity, combined with a joint width of at least 3 mm, successfully neutralizes deformations of the cladding caused by temperature changes.

When pointing ceramics, it is better to fill and rub the seams with the same heat-resistant silicone sealant that was used for fasteners.

Before grouting, a protective masking tape is glued along the joints, since the surface of unglazed tiles will be difficult to clean from contamination with a grout. After grouting is completed, the masking tape is immediately removed.

Tiling

The top of the art of facing stoves and fireplaces is their decoration with tiles. Such cladding is performed during the laying of the furnace itself, attaching each tile with special anchors. The thickness of each tile can reach 4-5 cm and the surface temperature of the tile is much lower than that of other types of ceramics.

These circumstances allow glaze to be applied to the tiles. The heat dissipation of a tiled stove is longer and more even, without sudden temperature fluctuations in the house, so once a heated stove can heat a room for several days.

The high cost of tiles and the full scope of work on the simultaneous construction of a stove in a house do not allow this method to be widely used in everyday life; today each such stove can be considered a work of art.

The stove in houses has been standing for many years and over time, the lining loses its appearance. Therefore, repairs are needed. You can simply cover it with a new layer of plaster or renew the brick. But tile looks more attractive, an assortment that is replete with a variety of options on the modern market. The material does not belong to the budget, therefore, in order to save money, many try to manage on their own, which is possible even without skills, but it is quite difficult. How to overlay the oven with tiles, we will consider in the article. We also recommend reading.

There are several options for attaching tiles to the stove. The first method is the most famous - mounting on glue. But it is also possible to install without an adhesive mixture - on a metal profile. The second option is more mobile. If you need to remove one element, it's easy to do.
Depending on the chosen installation method, the necessary materials and tools will also change. Preparation of everything you need should be done in advance, since in the process of work you can not be distracted by trips to the store. What you need:

• Sander;
• Tile cutter. In the process of cladding, you can not do without cutting the plates. It is easiest to do this with a special tool, but in extreme cases, use a grinder. True, there will be a lot of dirt and dust, you will have to work in a respirator and glasses and on the street;
• Putty knife. Several spatulas are needed. Toothed for taking and applying the solution. Flat and angled for comfort and rubbery for seams. You can use other options for filling the seams: a construction gun or a simple version with a plastic bag;
• Level and plumb. These tools are needed to check the evenness of the rows. You will also need a ruler, tape measure and a rule;
• Master OK;
• A bucket for preparing mortar and grout. You won’t be able to knead all this by hand, so you need a drill with a mixer nozzle;
• mallet for adjustment;
• Spray;
• Sponge for wiping excess;
• Primer and brush for its application.

If you plan to install on a profile, then the solution and the container for mixing it will not be needed. In this case, prepare metal scissors, a wooden beam and a steel corner. In addition to all of the above, you will need the tile itself.

Keep a spare material in case of damage during transport or work. Plaster and glue, grout.

Wall preparation

Before the actual finishing of the furnace with tiles in a private house begins, there is a stage of preparing the surface of the walls. This seemingly insignificant step cannot be neglected. It depends on the quality of the preparation how well the glue and the tile itself will fix and how long it will all last.
First, the stove is cleaned of the old layer of plaster. If this is not done, it may begin to peel off, if it has not already begun, which means that the tile will also begin to fall off. In a wet state, it is removed better, so it is pre-sprayed from a spray bottle several times with water.

And the layer itself is separated with a spatula. The field of complete disposal of the old layer, you can proceed to the next step. The surface is again abundantly wetted. Go over it with a wire brush to remove any remaining particles. The seams need to be deepened. You can do this with a grinder, but only if you have extensive experience with the tool.
You can not calculate and make the recess too deep, but it should not exceed 8 mm in depth. A more time-consuming, but sure way to get the job done with a chisel.

If the oven is new, then you need to wait for complete shrinkage before proceeding with the cladding. This will take about half a year. After the seams are deepened, the surface is primed. The solution must be deeply penetrating. Do not spare time and effort on this, the primer provides additional protection and improves adhesion.

If the base absorbs liquids well, then the primer should be applied twice and wait for each layer to dry completely. This affects the adhesion of the solution.

The surface can absorb all the water from it, which leads to subsequent cracking. The surface must be flat, otherwise the tile will rise crooked. You can check this parameter using a plumb line and level. If the differences are more than 1 cm, then they must be eliminated without fail. First, beacons are installed on the clay solution. The mixture is applied in a layer of 1 cm, if the depth of the cavity is greater, then it will have to be applied in several layers, gradually.
Preparing the solution is simple: clay is poured into water and kneaded until smooth. The finished mixture is applied with a trowel and leveled with a rule. Metal corners are used to strengthen the corners.

After the entire wall is leveled, the reinforcing mesh is laid while the layer is still wet and pressed into the mortar. Then it takes time for the solution to dry and after that the final layer is applied. After drying, the wall is primed again and left to dry completely.

Furnace cladding with ceramic tiles

How to tile the oven with tiles so that it does not fall off? It is important to follow all measures for the preparation of the base. Only after they have been carried out can you proceed directly to the lining. If the work has not been done, the adhesive will not set properly and the tile will not stand up straight.

On glue

Not only the stove tiles in a residential building must match, but also the adhesive. The stove heats up to high temperatures, and in the furnace it even reaches huge scales. Therefore, the adhesive must withstand all these conditions. You can buy a ready-made version or make your own.
One of the homemade options: PVA glue, salt and Portland cement. But before choosing the option with self-production, think carefully. It is quite difficult to choose the proportions and observe all the stages of the technology exactly, and the strength of the fixation depends on the glue. Perhaps it is better to spend on the finished mixture.

Another difficult stage is cutting the material. The material is hard and durable and this part of the job does not seem easy. And cutting is a must. First, practice on unnecessary material and only then proceed to facing.

The first row is the basis for all the rest, so it is he who needs to be given special attention. Therefore, no fittings by eye. Take the cord and, using the building level, pull it from above along the level of the first row.

The first row comes from the corner. First, the elements on one side, then on the other, and only then the tiles are laid between. Check the very first tile with a level and if you need to adjust its position, use a mallet. Check the first row with a building level. And already the rest level on it.

Seams are left between the tiles. To make them even, special plastic crosses are needed. For the convenience of work, they are bought more and not drowned, but placed across. It's easier to get them that way. You can use whatever comes to hand, at least pieces of the tile itself, but the main thing is that all elements should be the same in thickness. The adhesive is applied with a notched trowel. It is applied to the tile and leveled. With effort, press the tile against the wall, and immediately insert the crosses. Correction of the position of the tile is possible only immediately, because the glue begins to set after 10 minutes. Remove excess mortar immediately. Keep a sponge or rag handy, otherwise the mortar will clog into the seams.

After the entire tile is laid, you need to wait for the adhesive solution to dry completely. And then the turn of the grout. Get all the crosses and proceed. Grout can be applied in three ways. It is less convenient to work with a rubber spatula. A more suitable option is a construction pistol. It is quick and easy to work with him. And you can make a home version from a plastic bag, a solution is added there and a corner is cut off.
Excess mortar that has fallen on the tile must be removed immediately. Keep a sponge handy, but dry. Try to avoid the seams themselves. You can choose any color of the grout, but make sure that it is in harmony with the overall interior and the color of the tile.

Without glue

Facing the oven with tiles by the dry method differs dramatically. This option is more durable, because the tile is not glued, but installed on the frame. She doesn't care about exposure to temperatures or old plaster. In addition, the gap between the stove and the tile allows it to cool longer, which saves heat consumption.
The tile can be changed without the need to completely dismantle the coating. Simply remove the material from the profile and insert a new one.

This is convenient for those who like to frequently change the interior and saves in case of damage to one element.

The metal frame is the basis of the structure. First, markup is applied with a cord and a level. The lower guide is placed from below. The distance from the floor is equal to the width of the skirting boards. And then the upper line of the end of the masonry is marked.
Then the surface is lined along the width of the tile plus 2 mm. Aluminum corners and strips are attached to anchors.

It turns out a frame, and then vertical guides are attached along the marking line. After the frame is ready, check it by driving the tile along all the guides. She should walk freely, but not too much, not stumbling, but not driving. Then all rows are filled with tiles. After filling, a vertical corner profile and corners are attached. They are fixed with self-tapping screws.

Despite the fact that the 21st century is in the yard and the technological process has reached simply unprecedented heights, it is still difficult to imagine a classic hut without a Russian stove. It is not only relevant in our time, but is experiencing a new surge in its development, because the warmth and the atmosphere that comes from it cannot be replaced by a modern heating device.

For this reason, Russian stoves can be found in baths, country cottages, and even in some city apartments. the whole structure. To help in this matter, further we will consider how and how to finish the oven with tiles.

Choice of ceramic tiles

There is an opinion that finishing furnaces with clinker tiles reduces its heat transfer, however, this is a delusion, because tiles, like the brick from which the furnace is made, are ceramics. This means that it can only slightly increase the heating time of the structure, but at the same time, heat from it will remain longer.

There is also another misconception that tiles will quickly fall off the furnace, however, technology does not stand still and modern refractory adhesives are able to securely hold the facing material for many years.

In addition, this facing material has the following advantages:

• fire resistance;
• Strength;
• Rigidity;
• Heat capacity;
• Affordable price;
• Environmental friendliness.

All this makes the choice of material obvious. However, ordinary tiles are not suitable for finishing the furnace. It should be made on the basis of refractory or kaolin clays. Moreover, it is better to give preference to a product with a glazed surface and a corrugated base.

There are two types of tiles for finishing stoves and fireplaces:

• Terracotta ceramic, which is obtained by firing.
• Clinker tiles, which are made by extrusion.

Furnace finishing technology

Choosing the right finishing material is only half the battle. The process of laying the material itself is also extremely important, which must be carried out strictly according to a certain technology.

Surface preparation

Before you start finishing with your own hands, you must carefully prepare the surface on which the material will be laid.

Work is carried out in the following order:

• First of all, you need to clean the surface of any contaminants, including dust, grease, dirt, excess mortar, paint, etc. If it is not possible to remove the paint, then notches should be applied to the surface.
• After cleaning the surface, it is necessary to pay attention to the cracks that need to be cleared and deepened inward to one centimeter. Specialists for such purposes, as a rule, use a grinder with an abrasive wheel or special metal brushes.
• Then the prepared surface should be wiped with a dampened sponge.
• To increase the reliability of fastening the material, a special metal mesh is usually used. It must be pulled tightly over the entire surface of the structure. The mesh is fixed using ordinary self-tapping screws screwed into pre-drilled holes.

Advice!
If the furnace has not yet been built, then in the process of its construction, pieces of wire can be placed in the solution at a distance of 15 cm from each other, with which it is convenient to fix the grid later.

Further lining instructions are as follows:

• First of all, you need to prepare the adhesive composition. This is an extremely important operation, since the durability of the cladding depends on it. In particular, it is necessary to properly knead. Experts do not recommend using professional equipment, but advise doing it with your hands, in addition, you need to pay attention to the adhesive composition being refractory.
• Then, after 10-15 minutes, the solution must be applied to the grid using a notched trowel.
• Laying should be done from the bottom up, before that the surface must be warmed up. The thickness of the seam is usually from 2 to 5 mm, and the thickness of the solution is not more than 6 mm. The tile is pressed against the surface with an adhesive composition and knocked out with a rubber mallet.
• When the adhesive begins to set, it must be removed from the surface of the coating using a special oily liquid.
• Next, the seams are embroidered with a wooden float.
• Three days after the stove was finished with tiles, the seams should be filled with a special grout mixture. This operation is performed using a conventional spatula. I must say that this process is quite laborious and requires accuracy, since the final appearance of the furnace will depend on it.

This completes the finishing of the stove with tiles, it remains only to remove the remnants of the grout with a special compound and wipe the surface of the coating with a damp sponge. You can also polish the finish with a cloth. Now the interior of your house has received a new decoration!

Of course, in the process of tiling the stove, there are many other nuances that you will have to face in the process of doing this work. However, all these difficulties are quite surmountable, you just need to “fill your hand” a little.

Advice!
To make the seams even, you should use special crosses.
In addition, the correct position of each panel must be checked using a level.

Finally, we add that you should not rush to operate the furnace. It is desirable that several weeks pass before the first firebox. During this time, the adhesive solution will finally harden and reliably “hook” on the surface.

Output

The use of ceramic tiles when facing a Russian stove will make the design beautiful, safe, since toxic combustion products will not penetrate into the room from the furnace of the stove, and easy to clean. At the same time, you will not have to return to the issue of restoration of the coating for a long time.

True, as mentioned above, the durability of the quality of the material and compliance with the technology of its installation. However, adhering to the recommendations outlined above, picking up a tile and laying it correctly will not be difficult.

For more information on this topic, see the video in this article.