DIY 2-storey frame house. How to quickly and inexpensively build a frame house with your own hands. Installing the walls in place

Frame houses are very popular with developers. This is due to the fact that they are built in short terms, require a minimum of money, have excellent performance characteristics and are environmentally friendly.

If someone has a desire to start building just such a house, then in this article you can get information on how to do it. Here everything is scheduled in stages. At the same time, it means that all preparatory, and most importantly, organizational measures have been carried out and a permit has been obtained to build a house. What does that require?

The foundation is selected at will and can be columnar, pile-screw, tape, etc. This article examines an example of building a frame house with a pile-screw type of foundation.

This type of foundation is suitable for those areas where there is loose or unstable soil. This type of foundation has a number of advantages, such as:

There is no need to involve special equipment for its construction.
The foundation is being erected in a short time: one day is enough to assemble it.
Huge selection of building materials (piles).
The foundation has excellent load-bearing characteristics.
This is a cheap foundation option compared to other types of foundations.
The foundation is installed at any time of the year.

On a note! The presence of a pile-screw foundation does not allow equipping a basement in the house. This is a significant drawback of this option.

How to calculate the number of piles?

The piles must have the correct geometric shape and high-quality blades. Suitable piles can be selected from the corresponding table.

Screw pile (pipe diameter)	Installation step	Application
219	3-10	Houses, piers, hangars
159	2-5	Likewise
133	2-5	Likewise
108	2-5	Heavy gates, piers, hangars, houses, fences
89	2-4	Can be used as additional piles, for houses, utility blocks
76	1-3	Light buildings, terraces, signs, traffic signs
59	0.5-2	Likewise

On a note! In conditions where the soil is clayey, work should be carried out in dry, not rainy weather. Piles are installed strictly vertically.

In the case of using piles of large thickness, you will have to use the help of special equipment. If you choose piles of the optimal diameter, then you can get by with your own efforts. In this case, it is much easier to decide on the same level of pile installation.

To begin with, the necessary markings are carried out on the site and the site is being prepared. It is desirable that it be horizontally flat and can serve as a kind of reference point for the depth of the piles.

The next step is to determine the perimeter of the future foundation. For this, metal rods are hammered at its corners, after which a rope is pulled between them. It is necessary to check that the future foundation has right angles.

First of all, piles are installed at the corners to a depth of at least 0.5 meters. Although it all depends on the type of soil. It is better to install piles together: one screws them in, and the second controls the verticality. Having installed the piles at the corners of the building, they proceed to the installation of intermediate piles, which may be at a distance of 0.7-1.2 meters from one another. All piles are screwed in to the required depth, after which they proceed to leveling, concreting and mounting heads on the piles.

For this operation, beams of 150x150 mm, 200x200 mm and 200x250 mm in size will fit. Before laying the beams, the tops of the piles are coated with mastic and a couple of layers of roofing material are laid. This is the so-called waterproofing. The bars should be treated with an antiseptic.

The beams are mounted around the entire perimeter of the future building and are connected to each other in half a tree, by means of 120 mm long nails. All joints are reinforced with corners, which are fastened with nails 50-60 mm long.

The bars are attached to the base with screws, while they fit into special heads and are well attracted with screws.

On top of the harness, a board is laid on the beams, which will block the joints of the beams. In the future, vertical posts of the future frame will be mounted on this board. The board is nailed to the timber with nails 100-120 mm long.

The subfloor is mounted on logs measuring 100 x 150 mm, installed every 0.6 meters. The logs are connected to the strapping by means of metal corners, after which a board is nailed onto the logs from above.

Insulation is laid in the openings between the lags, and a vapor barrier film is spread on it. After that, everything is covered with plywood. The plywood is taken thick and attached to the logs. In order for the floor to be level, the joists must be installed in the same horizontal plane.

For the installation of the frame, beams of the following dimensions are taken: 100x50 mm, 150x50 mm, 200x50 mm. First of all, vertical posts are installed at the corners of the structure. They are fastened securely using reinforced metal corners. After that, proceed to the installation of the remaining racks, which are attached in the same way as the corner racks. Jib braces are attached to all struts, which minimize loosening of the structure.

The upper beam is connected at the corners by cutting, and to other uprights with the help of corners. For greater strength, diagonal slopes are installed.

They can be installed in three ways:

Through cutting.
With perforated brackets.
With metal corners.

Alternatively, it is recommended to combine several methods at the same time. This can be the option of cutting down and the option of using corners. Beams are installed directly on the upper strapping beam. Fastening can be done with self-tapping screws, but it is better to use nails, since they make it possible for the wood to expand freely when the humidity changes.

Installation of a roof is a rather laborious operation, which is worthy of a description in a separate article.

For this, there is a wide range of facing materials on sale, such as siding, timber simulants, artificial stone, etc. The work is carried out in the following order:

At the first stage, a lathing made of wooden beams with a size of 40x50 mm is installed. The pitch of the lathing is 0.6 m. Alternatively, the metal profile CD-60 from plasterboard systems will go.
If the lathing is made of wood, then it is advisable to cover it with an antiseptic and fire-resistant material.
After the lathing is ready, proceed to the installation of the facing material.

In the process of work, one should not forget about the insulation of a residential building. As a rule, everything is subject to insulation: floor, roof and walls. Do not forget about the vapor barrier film.

The building is almost ready, it only remains to carry out the interior decoration of the living space. You can take advantage of many options here, especially since each room requires its own approach. And such rooms as a bathroom and a kitchen are subject to exceptional finishes.

Photo report of the construction of a frame house on their own

Here you can see in stages the construction of a frame house with your own hands on weekends.

A two-storey frame house is a capital structure, the basis of which is a solid wooden frame. Residential buildings built using this technology are suitable for permanent residence even in harsh climatic conditions. They have many advantages that dispel the doubts of skeptics.

The advantages of two-story frame houses

Choosing two floors instead of one allows you to save space on the site and reduce the cost of building a foundation, purchasing roofing materials and installing a roof. The construction of two-story frame houses is much cheaper, faster and easier than the construction of buildings from blocks, bricks, logs, concrete.

Among the advantages of frame construction, it is worth highlighting:

High thermal efficiency, which is ensured using a special thermos technology used in construction.
Profitability during operation... The cost of heating for frame houses is an order of magnitude less than for providing heat to buildings made of stone or wood, built using traditional technologies.
Long service life. Frame houses do not require major repairs, as well as regular reconstruction of walls or foundations.
No shrinkage.
Resistance of materials to various external negative factors.
Non-combustibility of building materials.

It should be noted that the list of benefits is far from complete. Frame structures are distinguished by good sound insulation parameters and the absence of distortion of wall structures over many years of operation. Interior arrangement and decoration can be made from almost any modern materials.

How to build a two-story frame house

Choosing, technology, according to which it is better to build a two-story frame house, you need to study each of them. The construction of insulated projects is a good alternative to the classic solution to the problem of buying or building a house. For construction today they use the newest and most modern technologies, safe and affordable materials.

A huge number of projects have been developed by specialists. And especially popular today are two-story frame houses, in which several generations of one family can live. Due to the large area, one can assume the possibility of space zoning in them. The technology itself is of particular interest to consumers, therefore, before starting construction, it is best to study all the subtleties of this process.

Features of the construction of a frame house

The skeleton of a two-story frame house, which carries the main load, is the frame. Can be distinguished two types of frames:

platform (including floor-by-floor construction of a house);
end-to-end (end-to-end racks of the first and second floors).

The platform-type framework is used more often. This can be explained by the fact that such a frame is very simple and quick to assemble. The design is distinguished by smaller dimensions and dimensions of all elements.

A platform view of a two-story frame is erected in the following order:

Assembly of floor slabs, which are the basis for the walls of the first floor.
Installation of ground floor racks.
Installation of the upper floor of the first floor. This slab is the floor of the second floor.
Installation of racks on the second floor.
Assembling the ceiling slabs of the second floor, which serve as an attic slab.

The double frame technology is more complex and time consuming. Through posts are temporarily fixed to other structural elements. This method helps to avoid deformation. The uprights pass through the intermediate floors without interruption and reach the base of the roof.

As a rule, frame houses of this type are more in demand among people who prefer the classic style. In such buildings, structures and building elements can simultaneously serve as interior elements.

For the manufacture of the frame is used bar of various sections. Each structural element of the frame is rigidly and firmly mounted using steel bolts, connecting corners, plates and other elements for fastening. Most often, from the outside, the frame is sheathed with plates, for example, DSP. Such boards can be manufactured using a wide variety of technologies, they are water-resistant and fire-resistant.

Technologies for the construction of two-story frame houses

Regardless of the type of frame, the following technologies can be used during the construction process:

Canadian - using platform panels or SIP panels;
German, including assembly of panel panels;
frame-frame.

All of these technologies differ in different approaches to the completeness and use of panel panels. You can assemble the panels directly in production or with your own hands at the construction site of a two-story frame house.

The platform technology assumes the use of a pre-prepared platform and logs equipped with grooves for fastening double panels on the construction site. The shields are fastened using the upper strapping. The space between the panel boards is filled with insulation.

- this is a double slab or OSB, in which there is a foam layer. They are produced in a factory and then delivered to the construction site.

German technology implies the production of panel panels, the assembly of which is carried out entirely in the factory. Such panels are equipped with the necessary elements, from insulation materials to engineering communications. Almost all structural elements are assembled at the plant. Then all the parts are delivered to the site using special equipment.

Frame-frame technology is largely different from the previous two. The use of this technology provides for the implementation of all assembly work directly on the construction site. The frame of the house consists of glued beams, the cross-section of which is 150 mm. Further, it is sheathed with boards, taking into account the requirements of technology, or moisture-proof plates.

After completing these works, the walls are sheathed with special materials. Most often, frame-frame technology is used when building a house with your own hands. This technology is considered simpler and more flexible; its use does not require the use of special equipment. It makes it possible to subsequently make the necessary changes to the design and architectural characteristics of the building.

Stages of construction of a frame house in two floors

At the very beginning of work, it is installed on a previously prepared foundation, which will act as the base of the entire frame. For the installation of the lower harness, beams of the required dimensions are used, less often boards or logs. When the floor beams enter the strapping contour, it is performed in two rows. If the floor beams are located on the posts, the strapping contour is made in one row.

The corners are connected using direct lock... After installing the lower strapping and fixing it to the foundation with the help of metal spikes, proceed to the installation of the bearing racks. Racks are subdivided into corner and ordinary, made of timber with a thickness of at least 50 cm.

Plank braces are attached to the uprights for added rigidity. As a rule, the upper harness is attached to the supplied posts with the help of straight spikes. When using a floor frame, ceiling beams will be mounted in it. After that, the bearing racks of the second floor are installed by analogy with the first.

For wall insulation of a two-story frame house, basalt slabs are used, the thickness of which should not be less than 50 cm. In order to avoid cold bridges, the sheets are laid with an overlap. For external cladding, high-quality lining, siding or special plates are used. To evaporate excess moisture from the insulation layers, it is imperative to leave a gap of up to 30 mm.

Two-storey frame house with an attic

The space allotted for the attic is often used as the second floor of a frame house. But to implement such a solution, the structure of the roof slopes must be designed in a special way so that, if necessary, the space of the attic can be increased. Such a floor is called an attic floor, and the solution itself makes it possible to significantly save building materials and increase the living space.

Very often, the attic floor serves as a study or bedroom. The advantage of arranging the attic can be called a more budgetary cost, due to the exclusion of overlapping of the upper sections of the walls.

Frameworks are especially in demand attic houses of compact size... The standard dimensions of such buildings are 6x4, 6x6, 6x8 or 8x8 m. The total area of such a house will be from 50 to 130 square meters. m.

The most popular sizes of two-story frame houses

From the total area of the house, not only the cost of construction is envy, but also the cost of maintenance. You need to choose taking into account the size of the site, the composition of the family and personal needs.

The dimensions of the house are 6x4 suggest a minimum number of rooms in the project. As a rule, the total area of the building is 40 sq. m. The attic floor of such a house is reserved for a bedroom, and on the first floor there is a kitchen and a living room. The walls of the house are a frame made of timber 100x100 mm or 100x50 mm. The slabs are beams with dimensions of 150x150 mm. The choice of foundation depends on the type of soil - from pile to slab.

From the outside, the house is sheathed with OSB boards. Izospan is suitable as waterproofing, and basalt sheets with a thickness of 100 mm are suitable as insulation. Outside, the house can be finished with siding or decorative tiles. For the roof, metal tiles or ondulin are suitable.

Frame house on two floors 6x6

The area of a 6x6 two-story frame house is 64 sq. m. Due to the large area in such a house, it is easy to design several more premises, in addition to the kitchen, bedroom and living room. For example, on the ground floor you can place a living room, a bathroom and even a sauna with a shower. On the second floor there are several rooms, or two bedrooms and an office.

Frame house on two floors 8x8

The dimensions of the house give more possibilities for design and engineering. The area of such a cottage is about 120 sq. m. In addition to the kitchen and dining room, on the ground floor you can also place a children's room, living room, bathroom, shower, sauna or other premises at the discretion of the owner.

Second floor a frame house is suitable for placing several bedrooms, an office, a rest room. Depending on the roof configuration and design option, the attic floor can have different ceiling levels. The roof can be gable, pitched, curly or other type.

Taking into account the peculiarities of the soil on the site, for construction, you can choose both a concrete and a foundation on piles. Traditionally, all common areas are located on the ground floor. But at the request of the owner of the house, the layout of the interior space can be changed in accordance with the needs and possibilities.

A comfortable two-story frame house can solve the housing problem at minimal cost. Unlike an ordinary apartment, such housing is more economical, ergo-efficient and functional. A house made from natural materials will be reliable, environmentally friendly and durable.

Video: building a house with an area of 160 sq. m

A frame house is a great opportunity to acquire your own comfortable home for reasonable money and in a short time. But so that the first strong wind or heaving of soil does not fold it like a house of cards, you need to know the clear sequence of work and some secrets of frame construction. Here are step-by-step instructions on how to do it right.

Design project and drawing of the house

Design will help you to significantly reduce construction time, avoid many mistakes and reduce material consumption. But this is not only the study of the interior of the rooms. The design project includes and blueprints... For the foundation, rafter system and wall frame, they are simply necessary.

To develop a design project and drawings, you can contact professional designers or try to master specialized programs. For example: ArchiCAD, Arcon, WoodEngine, CadWork. However, please note that some programs require the purchase of a license key and time to learn.

Laying the foundation for a frame house

A frame house can be independently erected by you on a slab, pile, columnar or strip foundation. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, suitable for a certain type of soil. How do you determine which one to choose?

Soil analysis on the construction site

The foundation, selected in accordance with the characteristics of the soil, is not just a reliable foundation for the entire structure. It is also the rational use of your money. A frame house does not always need an expensive slab or deep foundation.

Making the right choice will help land analysis taken from a construction site. What it will help determine:

The depth of the groundwater table. If they flow close to the soil surface, you will have to abandon the cellar arrangement.
The qualitative composition of the earth (fine sand, gravel, clay, etc.). The best option for construction is gravel soil, the worst is fine sandy soil.
The depth of soil freezing. The larger it is, the more laborious and expensive will be the work on laying the foundation.

For research, you can dig a hole yourself at least one and a half meters deep, take soil samples and take them to the laboratory. A less time consuming option is to invite geological engineers directly to the construction site.

Features of the strip foundation

The strip foundation is a closed loop made of reinforced concrete. It is laid under the load-bearing walls of the house along their entire length.

Despite the laboriousness and high cost of laying, the strip base is the best option for a frame house. It has a large load-bearing surface, allows you to equip a basement and carry out construction work even on heaving soil.

The sequence of the construction of the strip foundation:

Digging a trench and laying a sand cushion at its bottom.
Waterproofing the walls of the trench.
Installation of wooden formwork.
Assembly and installation of reinforcing mesh.
Pouring the formwork with concrete and compaction.

Height of strip foundation should be at least 2 times its width. Under these conditions, transverse deformation does not occur in it.

Pile-screw foundation - a simple and affordable foundation for a house

The pile-screw foundation allows, without construction experience, to erect a residential building on weak and uneven terrain. It becomes a reliable support for the walls, since the piles firmly cling to solid rocks below the freezing level of the soil.

Screw piles- metal rods, on the pointed ends of which the blades are welded. This design allows you to simply screw them into the ground, like a drill. This can be done with the help of involved special equipment or manually. But in the latter case, at least three people will be needed.

Laying a columnar foundation

Columnar base is erected only on stable soils with high bearing capacity.

The work is performed step by step:

Round holes are drilled in the ground along the selected perimeter.
A metal frame connected from reinforcement is installed in them.
The casing formwork is lowered into the wells.
The above-ground elements are cut off one level at a time.
The wells are poured with concrete and compacted.

The height of the heads (above-ground part of the posts) should not be less than 400 mm. Otherwise, the wood flooring will rot from the constant exposure to moisture.

Slab foundation - when a considerable investment pays off

The slab foundation is rightfully considered the most expensive. This is due to the large bearing area, which is the main advantage of the monolithic base.

A house built on such a slab is protected from distortions, because even when exposed to the forces of frost heaving, it moves along with the foundation.

The base laying technology assumes

Removal of the top layer of soil (fertile).
Laying of geofabric, backfilling of sand and gravel cushion and its ramming.
Flooring of waterproofing material.
Installation of wooden formwork.
Installation and installation of a mesh connected from ribbed reinforcement.
Pouring concrete and its subsequent compaction with a special vibration machine.

The height of the slab base is usually 100 mm.

Bottom harness of the house

If you are going to build a frame house with your own hands, you cannot do without a lower strapping. It unites all the elements of the foundation, if it is columnar or pile-screw, connects the base of the house with its walls, serves as a support for laying the floor.

For device bottom strapping use a beam of 150x200 mm or a bundle of boards put on the end. Lumber must be pre-treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

They are fixed on the foundation using anchor bolts with a wide nut. The connection of the beams to each other is carried out using panels or “in half a tree”, “in a paw”, additionally strengthening them with nails, steel corners.

Subfloor laying and insulation

The subfloor is based on basement beams. Their function is performed by beams with a cross section of 140x180 mm or boards with a size of at least 160x50 mm. The ideal option is a material with the same cross-section as the elements of the lower strapping.

Fastening of floor beams is carried out “in half a tree”, making appropriate cuts. For additional fixation, two nails are used for each junction of the bars.

Then the flooring and its insulation are performed according to the following scheme:

Fastening the cranial bars to the bottom of the bars.
Fixing sub-floor boards on them.
Waterproofing beams and decking with dense polyethylene.
Laying the insulation in the cells formed by the bars.
Installation of vapor barrier.
Plywood, floorboard or OSB flooring.

Such a “pie” is ready for finishing at the final stage of self-construction of a frame house.

Stages of erecting a wall and roof frame

The subfloor with its rigid base is a reference point for the construction of the wall frame and installation of the rafter system under the roof. This is one of the most time-consuming stages in the construction of a frame house.

Installation of vertical uprights for external walls

On the already existing lower strapping, markings are made for fastening the vertical racks of the frame... Their length determines the height of the ceiling on the floor minus its final finishing.

Work begins with the installation of corner elements with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm. They are recorded in two main ways:

With the help of a wooden dowel, which should rise 80-100 mm above the corner connection of the harness. In this case, the rack is literally strung on it.
With reinforced galvanized metal corners.

For racks on straight sections, a bar with a smaller section is suitable - 50x100 mm. Its connection with the strapping is carried out by full, incomplete cutting or using steel corners. Fasteners without reinforcement can be used here.

When determining the pitch of the racks, be guided by the width of the insulation or sheet material of the wall cladding. To prevent the vertical elements of the frame from tilting, they can be fixed with temporary jibs.

Upper frame rail and interfloor overlap

Only after fixing the racks strictly vertically and in a stationary position, they begin to work on the upper harness. All grooves and fastenings in it must be similar to those that took place in a similar lower chord. This will give the structure good spatial rigidity.

Note! The width of the beams of the upper harness should be equal to the width of the uprights.

Mount in the same way as the basement. Logs from a board of 50x200 mm with a step of 600-800 mm are fastened with nails to the beams of the upper harness.

If the ceiling is not an element of the roof truss system, but the floor of the second floor, it must be additionally reinforced with spacers. Their function is performed by edged boards, which are lined up between the logs in one line and fixed with nails. With a second floor span of 2.5-3 m, one line of spacers is sufficient. For a larger span, you will need two parallel lines.

Assembling the rafter system

The rafter system determines the shape of the roof of a frame house, erected from scratch. Most often it is gable.

Suitable for rafters boards with a section of 50x150 mm or 50x200 mm... They are installed on the beams of the upper harness with a pitch of 0.6-1.1 m.

The rafters are also interconnected, which gives the roof the appropriate rigidity and determines its bearing capacity. For this, the following elements are used:

longitudinal runs;
crate;
crossbars;
racks;
sill;
tightening.

If the width of the span of the second floor or attic is less than 10 m and there are no load-bearing walls in the house, except for the outer ones, hanging rafters can be mounted. This system involves attaching each rafter one end to the strapping, and the other to the counter element. Tightening in the form of a horizontal beam allows the structure to be reinforced.

Rafters appropriate where they have an intermediate support in the form of a load-bearing wall or columnar element. They are reinforced with internal center posts.

Thermal insulation of walls and roof

You should proceed to work on the insulation of walls and roofs only after installing all windows and doors.

In the correct frame house, the technology for their implementation is similar and comes down to creating a “pie” consisting of several layers.

Outer cladding. It can be fiberboard, OSB, DSP or facade board.
Waterproofing. It is necessary to protect the insulation from moisture from the street.
Heat insulating material. It can be polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, etc.
Vapor barrier. Usually, a membrane film is used, which allows moisture to be removed from the room.
Internal cladding. Suitable for these purposes: plywood, OSB, drywall.

The roof is not sheathed from the outside with sheet material. Its place is taken by lathing, which serves as the basis for the roofing material.

Thermal insulation of interfloor floors is similar to thermal insulation of a sub-floor.

Frame house engineering systems

Without utilities, the frame house will be a dark and cold box. For this reason, it is necessary to know where and at what stage they are laid.

Heating pipes and water supply systems are mounted inside the frame walls. Do this before insulating them. The cold water supply pipe is placed in a corrugated moisture-resistant "sleeve", which is associated with the constant formation of condensate on it.
Sewer pipes are installed in the walls and under the floor. Their supply to septic tanks is provided at the stage of laying the foundation.
Electrical wiring cables are located inside walls, under false ceilings or in skirting channels.
The laying of hidden electrical cables can only be carried out in special pipes and ducts. These works are also performed before the thermal insulation of the walls.

Video: Invalid Construction Errors

Our step by step instructions We will divide the construction of a frame house into several stages:

It is worth noting that each stage of construction of a frame house deserves a separate article, in addition to everything, if you describe all the possible options for foundations, roofs, etc., you can get a whole book. In this regard, to improve readability, some steps in the construction are described in detail in separate articles, and here - only what concerns the features specifically frame house.

Step number 1: Preparatory work for the construction of a frame house

Preparatory work for the construction of any house is the same and includes:

Site preparation
House layout

Site preparation

First, you need to clear the site of vegetation, if not all, then at least the place where the house will be built. This will greatly facilitate the markup and make it more accurate.

If the building site has a large slope, then, depending on the type of foundation and desire, it can be pre-leveled horizontally using special equipment.

Attention! Do not neglect this procedure, spending 1-2 hours on clearing, in the future you will greatly facilitate your work, and measurements in the grass can be with a large error.

House layout

Layout is a very crucial stage, because the layout and evenness of the corners of the walls depend on it. If the markup is inaccurate, it will be very difficult to correct this error in the next steps.

The marking of the foundation of a frame house, as well as any other, as a rule, includes a preliminary arrangement of pegs (all external walls are marked), as well as a marking of all internal walls.

If you want to know how to correctly make do-it-yourself foundation marking for the house, and so that all walls and corners are even and correspond to the project - I advise you to read my article about this. Given the large amount of information, I had to take it out separately.

Step number 2: Do-it-yourself foundation for a frame house

The huge advantage of a frame house is that almost any type of foundation is suitable for its construction. The only limitation is the type of soil on the site and your options.

It is worth saying that laying the foundation for a frame house with your own hands deserves separate topics of discussion and is included in separate articles. Moreover, there are several types of suitable foundations, and which one to choose is up to you.

Here I will tell you in a nutshell about suitable foundations for a frame house, and in what cases each of them is used, as well as give links to a detailed description of them.

The most common type of foundation for a frame house is a screw-pile foundation. This is practically the simplest and cheapest option for such a house, especially since it is installation of the pile-screw foundation not difficult with your own hands.

Such a foundation is suitable for almost any soil, except for rocky ones. Especially suitable for marshy soils, where dense soil is deep and other types are expensive.

In general, all pros and cons of screw-pile foundations, discussed in another topic, which will help you decide on the choice of support for your home.

Shallow strip foundation

A shallow strip foundation is also used for construction quite often. This is due to the relatively low cost of laying it, as well as the possibility of using concrete floors in the house.

Such a foundation, due to its relative fragility, requires strict adherence to the laying technology.

As a rule, a shallow strip foundation is used in good soils, and is categorically contraindicated in soils with a very high level of groundwater and marshy soils.

Slab foundation for a frame house

Recently, the slab foundation is gaining more and more popularity for the construction of a frame house with your own hands. Despite its not small cost, it has obvious advantages, such as versatility, reliability, durability, and it can also be used as a rough floor in the house and not be spent on it separately.

Often, instead of the classic monolithic slab, they use slab foundation with stiffening ribs. This allows you to save a little on the laying, and also strengthens the entire structure as a whole.

Step number 3: DIY frame house flooring

The floors in a frame house are not much different from the floors of other types of houses and can be wood or concrete. The choice depends entirely on the type of foundation, capabilities and desires.

In this step-by-step instruction, we will consider in detail only a wooden floor, concrete - in a nutshell, since it is used less often, and it is not possible to fit everything in one article.

Concrete floor device

It is worth noting that the concrete floor in a frame house is arranged, in cases of a slab foundation, or a strip foundation. With the slab, everything is clear - the slab itself will be the floor of the first floor.

But if the foundation is tape, the concrete floor is made of lightweight concrete, such as expanded clay concrete, for example.

Wooden floor device

Let's consider the device of a wooden floor using the example of a pile-screw foundation. For the tape, in principle, everything is done in the same way, with the exception of the lower strapping, it can be from a thinner beam. But first things first.

Tying the foundation of a frame house

The construction of a wooden floor begins with strapping the foundation. As a rule, the strapping is made of 150x150 or 150x200 timber, depending on the wall thickness and the distance between the piles. The greater the distance, the thicker the timber must be to avoid sagging.

The strapping is necessary, firstly, in order to give rigidity to the foundation, and secondly, to evenly distribute the load on the foundation, and thirdly, it will serve as a support for the future floor of the frame house.

In order to easily carry out the strapping process with your own hands, we will divide it into several stages:

The beam is laid out along the perimeter of the foundation, the length of the walls and the diagonal are checked. At this stage, the final and accurate marking of the walls is carried out, according to the project. By the way, do not forget about waterproofing, which we put in the form of roofing material under the strapping.
The next step is to outline the joining points of the timber, they should be located on the pile, since these will be the weakest points that should not "hang". This applies to houses whose walls are longer than the purchased beams.
The beam is joined with a 20-30cm overlap, as shown in the photo. For this, the so-called "locks" are cut from the end.
The corners fit in much the same way. This is clearly visible in the photo.
The timber is attached to the foundation with bolts or studs. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes, both in the head of the foundation and in the beam itself. For the convenience of further installation, protruding parts - bolt heads or nuts with studs, must be deepened. The joints are additionally pierced with nails of 150 mm or 200 mm, depending on the size of the timber.
As soon as the perimeter is ready, we proceed to the final step - strapping the foundation under the inner walls of the frame house. This beam, to the already installed external one, is attached in the same way. For reinforcement, you can additionally use fastening metal corners.

When the strapping of the foundation of the frame house is ready, we proceed to the next stage of our instructions - the construction of the floor frame.

Floor frame in the house

It is worth noting that already at this stage, it is advisable to provide for all communications entering the house, such as water and sewerage. Electricity and gas can be supplied later, but if everything is foreseen in advance, there will be much fewer problems later.

The next step is to install the lag, on top of the harness. If the distance between the supports is about 4 meters, then it would be better to use a beam of 100x200mm or 100x150mm in size. You can use a board 50x200mm or 50x150mm, stitching them in two.

If the distance is less than 3 meters, you can use a board of 50x150mm or better 50x200mm.

Installation of a lag is a simple stage in assembling a frame house, but there are some nuances that must be provided for in this manual:

Do-it-yourself waterproofing and floor insulation of a frame house

It is worth noting that the waterproofing, as well as the vapor barrier, must be installed with an overlap, according to the instructions for the material, while excluding the ingress of moisture into the insulation, both from the outside and from the inside. And the insulation itself fits tightly, without cracks.

So we looked at the instructions for installing the floor of a frame house, now it's time to get down to the walls.

Step number 4: Arrangement of the walls of the frame house

The next step of our instructions there will be a do-it-yourself wall installation. As with the floor, we will fasten all the boards and beams with nails and (or) mounting metal corners, some fasteners can be made with pins.

It is worth noting that almost the entire frame is assembled from a board measuring 50x150mm or 50x200mm, depending on the required wall thickness and the required insulation thickness.

Some people think that it would be better to install a timber in the corners of a frame house, but this is not entirely correct, and why - a little later, during the installation process, I will tell you about everything.

So, let's start assembling the frame of the walls of the future house.

For a better understanding and assimilation, we will divide our instructions on how to arrange the walls of a frame house into several stages:

Assembling the walls of a frame house. Windows and doors
Installation and fastening of walls vertically in place

Assembling the walls of a frame house with your own hands. Windows and doors

We will assemble the walls on the finished floor of the frame house, this is the most convenient option. But it must be borne in mind that in this case, it is necessary that all dimensions are accurate so that the walls do not turn out to be longer or shorter than the already arranged floor.

To make it clear what I am talking about, first take a look atsectional wall of a frame house , and then I'll go over everything in order.

Now we will analyze step by step how to assemble all the walls of a frame house with our own hands:

First of all, we need to decide on the height of the ceiling in the house. Let's say that the height of the rough ceiling is 280cm. This means that the vertical racks of the frame walls should be 280-15 = 265cm. The diagram shows where 15 cm came from.
The distance between the uprights, as a rule, is chosen based on the width of the insulation sheet, as a rule, its width is 60 cm. If the insulation is on a cotton basis, then the distance is made less by 2 cm, for a tighter contact.
The upper and lower boards of the wall are laid out on the floor and the places where the vertical racks will be nailed are marked. Then the racks themselves are laid out and pierced with 120-150mm nails. You can additionally fasten them with corners.
It is worth noting that each wall will be thinner by the thickness of the wall than the length of the floor. This can be clearly seen on the diagram.
If the length of the wall is longer than the length of the board, then the wall is assembled from several parts. This is also done in cases where there are few helpers, because the whole assembled wall will have a lot of weight.
As a rule, to give rigidity to the entire structure, jumpers are mounted between the posts. There are no hard rules on the number and frequency of installation, it all depends on the length and height of the walls, but usually they break through one or two per space between the racks. The second option is better and is visible in the photo, in the case when they break through one by one - they are mounted in a checkerboard pattern (one at the bottom, the next at the top). This can be done later, when the walls are installed. Most often, lintels are punched with the expectation that they will serve as a joint of plywood or osb-plates, depending on further work.
Window and door openings in the wall of a frame house are arranged as shown in the diagram.
This is how it looks "live".

The most common mistake when assembling the walls of a frame house is that many forget to take into account the thickness of the board when calculating, thus the wall is not as long as we would like.

Installing the walls in place

It is worth noting that when assembling the walls, it is necessary to use a cord, pulling it from one corner to another, otherwise, the corners will be even, but the walls will not.

Top rail and structural reinforcement

So, the frame of the walls is assembled, now you need to make the upper strapping from the same board as the walls.

The upper strapping is necessary, first of all, for a stronger adhesion of the corners, and also gives unity to all parts of the frame walls and distributes the load between them.

To do this, it is necessary to pierce the board with 120-150mm nails on top of the walls, along the entire perimeter, including internal load-bearing ones, so that all joints are overlapped with an overlap of at least 25-30 cm. Except for corners where the overlap will be equal to the wall thickness.

The next step in our instructions will be to strengthen the entire structure as a whole. There are several options, the most common is reinforcement with plywood or OSB board.

As a rule, by punching one side around the entire perimeter (internal or external) with OSB sheets, the frame of the house already becomes very rigid.

Internal partitions of a frame house

The device of internal partitions is almost no different from the device of external walls, except that they have softer requirements in terms of thickness and insulation.

Internal partitions, in contrast to external walls, can be made thinner. Everything here will depend on the preferences and comfort of soundproofing.
Insulation, inside the partitions, will serve, first of all, as a sound-absorbing material, rather than thermal insulation.
Internal partitions are allowed to be insulated without waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.

These are all the main differences between the inner walls and the outer ones, otherwise they are arranged in the same way.

Step 5: The roof of the frame house

The roof of a frame house is practically no different from the roof for other houses, be it concrete, brick or any other. I will even say more, the installation of a roof for a frame house will be less laborious than, for example, for a block or brick one, because its fastening to the walls will be much easier.

It is worth noting that the construction of a roof is a very responsible process, but if you do not have a complicated layout of the house, then it can be easily done with your own hands.

Building the roof of any house, including a frame house, is a very large topic, where there are many nuances. Firstly, there are many types of roofs, and it is not possible to describe everything in detail in one article. Well, and secondly, in order not to confuse you, I will probably transfer this topic to a separate article.

Step 6: Insulation of a frame house

So we got to the final stage of the construction of a frame house - its insulation. It is necessary to insulate everything - the floor, walls and ceiling.

Learn more about do-it-yourself frame house insulation, You can read in another step-by-step instructions, here we will discuss only general points.

When choosing insulation for the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to take into account not only the characteristics of the insulation itself, but also the features of the tree, with which not all types of insulation will interact well.

Here is a small instruction on how to insulate a frame house with your own hands:

Outside, on top of OSB sheets, a special waterproofing membrane is stretched. Which side - should be in the instructions for it.
From the inside of the house, between the racks, insulation is laid, in several layers, depending on the requirements for the house and the thickness of the wall. Each layer is laid with an overlap on the joint of the previous one in order to avoid cold bridges.
The floor is insulated in the same way.
It is better to insulate the ceiling from the attic, after filling the vapor barrier film from below onto the ceiling beams and hemming them with a board or plywood.
After laying the insulation, it is necessary to fill a vapor barrier film on top of it, it will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside.
Depending on the needs and further finishing work, cladding material is stuffed onto the walls over the film - a board or slats, but most often - OSB sheets, on top of which, in the future, finishing is carried out.

As you have already seen, there is a lot of text. But, I believe, all stages of construction were described in detail here. do-it-yourself frame house, in spite of the fact that some points were taken out in separate topics, but this is only for your convenience.

I hope that by following these step-by-step instructions, you will be able to acquire a warm, cozy and reliable home without much difficulty and at minimal cost.