The worst mistakes in wood construction. How to change the crowns in a wooden house The last crown of a log house

The figure clearly shows the geometry of the conjugation of the logs in the corners of the frame. Pay attention to the butt end of paw 1. Its upper line at a slight angle descends to the outer edge, and the lower one, on the contrary, rises at the same angle. The so-called dovetail is formed. These lines indicate the planes of the paws with which the log 2 is wedged in the corner. A castle is formed. The log in question cannot move either to the right or to the left. Longitudinal movement was ordered to him, because it is blocked by the paw of the upper log 3.

Thus, the log is securely fixed in the frame. Not only can it move - it cannot move.

So, without a single nail, all the logs are built into the frame. None will fall out of it, even if the house is shaken or struck from the outside / inside. The log cannot be removed from the wall. They do not disperse from vibration, but, on the contrary, rally, as if moving in the corners along inclined planes towards the center. If, say, an artillery shell explodes at some distance, the house will not fall apart. The logs will only press closer to each other. Nothing to say, our ancestors were gifted engineers.

The figure shows a single paw. The width of its outer end (5) and the length of the bottom of the connecting socket (3) are the same. These dimensions are specified by the same template. The height of the outer end depends on the diameter of the mating logs. The angle of inclination of the bottom of all paws is also the same.

Basic logs

Any crown of a log house is formed by two pairs of logs. One of them is lower, the other is upper. They are connected by means of paws. The upper logs rise by half a diameter or so above the lower ones. For the next crown, this pair becomes lower - the first two logs of the next crown are laid on it. This pattern is repeated all the time. So the blockhouse grows in pairs of logs. Each increases it by an amount slightly less than the diameter of the logs (minus 1-2 cm due to cutting down the connecting chute).

The logs for the crown are selected with approximately the same diameter. In the butt part, they are always thicker than in the apical part. Therefore, in order for the corners of the frame to rise evenly, the top part is laid on the butt and vice versa. That is, the logs mating in the paws are arranged according to the following scheme: head to tail, tail to head.

Many believe that the first crown logs should be the most powerful. This is a misconception.

Trees of large diameter (over 30 cm) can be overgrown with weakened wood, which is more prone to rotting. Being closer to the surface of the earth, as a rule, damp, the logs of the first crown are in the most unfavorable conditions compared to others. In addition, all the rainwater from the walls rolls down on them.

The desire to put thick logs in the first crown is associated with the idea that they are the strongest. In reality, as we can see, this is not always the case. Young trees with a diameter of 20-25 cm have a denser wood and therefore better serve as a basic support. It is more practical to lay logs with a larger diameter from the 3-4th crown.

All processing of crown logs is carried out directly at the log house. But the first crown is an exception. On the logs, before lifting, support belts are groomed, with which they will lie on the foundation. In order not to weaken the logs by unnecessary wood losses, the width of the protector can be limited to 3-4 cm. For the convenience of processing, it is rolled onto a couple of short scraps. A log is never perfectly cylindrical and straight, so it should be rolled slightly on pads so that it settles in accordance with its center of gravity. It will take this position on the foundation.

At both ends, using a level, horizontal lines (5) are drawn, denoting the boundaries of the protest. To facilitate the work on the removable slab, you can make cuts (2) of the required depth with an interval of 25-30 cm. Then the cut will be reduced to chipping off small slabs (1) and cleaning the surface with an ax. The cuts can be replaced with holes.

For gouging, the log is turned on pads so that the end lines of the gouge are located vertically. In this position, it is fixed with brackets (4). A metal string is pulled between the lines and the mountains are cut right along it, as if along the line. The verticality of the pipe is periodically checked by the level.

If during the operation some deviations from the desired plane are allowed, there is no reason for worry. Flaws can be eliminated during further processing of the logs on the supports (foundation). As a consolation to a novice carpenter, we can say that the work he is doing has been called clumsy since ancient times, not jewelry. Of course, you need to strive for accuracy, but you should not panic with minor mistakes. Everything is fixable.

When squeezing, you should constantly remember about safety precautions. An ax is a great tool, but a crafty one. It is necessary to follow the rules already mentioned above.

As practice shows, works of the same type are performed faster and better if they are repeated one after the other. At the same time, skills are consolidated more quickly. Therefore, it is more rational to first hew the support bands on all four logs, and only then raise them to the foundation for the construction of the crown.

In terms of plan, the house is usually a rectangle, the length of which is greater than the width. Logs that are shorter are installed first on the supports. The second pair, the upper one, will be laid on their paws. This will allow it to be raised slightly higher above the ground, which is important, since floor beams are laid on long logs of the 1st or 2nd crown.

It is convenient to roll the first logs onto corner paired monolithic supports or with a ridge. With columnar supports, to perform this operation, you have to tinker with an auxiliary device, like the one shown in the figure. When the log is positioned over the supports (3), the long end of the crossbar (1) is retracted and the log is lowered.

As you can see from the figure, when the log is rolled up, the gate cable does not wrap around it in a ring, but is simply superimposed on top and is attached to the mast with the help of a croco-dplchpka. There will be enough friction between the cable and the surface of the barrel for a secure grip when rolling.

After laying the first two short logs on the supports, the main operation for a novice builder is to be done - the device of connecting legs. On the supports, the logs are located parallel, their ends are in the same plane. After making sure that they are stable, proceed to the processing of the first log.

Marking and cutting of thorns

The thorn is needed to form the connecting paw. His body is limited by the planes: butt, outer and inner cheeks. The end has the width of the template. The length of the outer cheek is equal to its double width, the length of the inner cheek is equal to one and a half. The outer cheek helps protect the paw from rainwater by making it run off faster. The space formed after the removal of the slab from the inner cheek may include the rounded end part of the mating log.

Starting to mark the thorn, the log is divided along the axis with the help of a cord (or by eye) into two halves equal in volume (weight), left and right. The plane dividing the halves is fixed with vertical lines at both ends. They are carried out along a plumb line or level.

If the end face is a regular circle, then the end line cuts it in half. Otherwise, the semicircles may differ from each other in area and configuration. This shouldn't be embarrassing. The main thing is that the longitudinal vertical plane divides the log into two balanced parts. Then it will lie stably in the frame.

Having drawn the end lines, they begin to mark the first spike. A template (1) is applied to the end so that its axial line coincides with the end one, and the obtuse angle of the oblique face is directed towards the inner cheek. Naturally, the line of the template plumb line covers the end vertical. Holding the template in this position, draw lines with a pencil along its right and left sides, denoting the lateral boundaries of the thorn. On the back of the log, they continue parallel to the axis to the borders of the cheeks. To carry them out, it is convenient to use the backrest transversely !: saws. The advantage of such a flight tire is its meter length, which allows more accurate drawing of parallels.

Next, using a template on the sidewalls of the log, the boundaries of the inner and outer cheeks are marked, after which it is necessary to make vertical cuts along these lines to the plane of the cheeks. If there is no electric or chainsaw, they are performed with a cross-cut saw, standing on a frame (log). The saw, under the influence of its own weight, automatically takes a vertical position, and therefore the cut turns out to be strictly vertical. You should start the cut with the tip of the saw, lightly pressing on it from above with your free hand.

They proceed to chipping the croaker carefully so as not to spoil the thorn, and therefore the log. Ideally, the operation looks like this. The blade of the ax is placed on the butt end at the border of the thorn and, striking the butt with a mallet, it is driven into the wood. Gorbylek is separated. It remains only to clean the exposed cheek. But there are various possible tricks.

The cleavage may not go directly in the plane of the cheek, but deviate into the body of the thorn. Therefore, you should first cut down only a part of the crochet, placing the ax blade 1-2 cm from the border of the thorn. This will make it possible to understand the trend of the cleavage development. Not all tree species have it the same way. It is easiest to perform this operation on a pine log, especially if there are no knots or any other anomalies in the place of the chip. In healthy pine, as a rule, the fibers develop strictly vertically and therefore the plane of the cleavage often turns out to be just perfect. Snappers on an aspen are chipped off quite well. But spruce or birch can present the most unexpected surprises, since the fibers sometimes deviate from the vertical in a bizarre way. The chip can go in a completely unexpected direction. When handling such logs, discretion will not be superfluous.

Often, the slab has to be cut down not entirely, but in parts, for which additional vertical cuts are made. You can cut the slab with an electric or chainsaw, but for this you need to confidently own the tool.

With a large end diameter, the ax has to be rearranged from top to bottom and back several times. In this case, the ax blade can be immersed in the wood by 1.5-2 cm in order to understand the nature of the deflection of the fibers. When the hole widens enough, the ax is placed in its middle and the slabs are finally separated with a strong blow of the beater on the butt. As already mentioned, you cannot hit the butt with a metal object, even with a light hammer.

Having removed the crochet, the cheeks are hewn, making sure that they become smooth, even and do not go beyond the dimensions. It should be borne in mind that the degree of cleanliness of processing of the inner and outer cheeks is not the same. It doesn't matter if the plane of the outer cheek deviates somewhat from the design one, although, of course, one should strive to do any carpentry work in the best possible way. The outer cheek does not mate with the working planes in the paw, so some inaccuracies are permissible. But the plane of the inner cheek to the width of the template from the end is working. It mates with the paw of the log connected to it, so stripping requires special care.

For the final finishing of the planes, use a hacksaw. As already noted, it is pressed flat against the surface to be treated and the irregularities are eliminated with the teeth. The picture shows a spike in front of the paw mark.

Marking and cutting the paws of the lower pair of the crown

The marking begins after the finishing of the studs. The peculiarity of the first two crown logs (the first pair) is that only the upper nests of 6 legs are formed. They will include the paws of the covering logs (the second pair). The bottom slots are simply not needed.

The upper pair of each crown should rise above the lower one by half the diameter of the log. To fulfill this requirement, it is necessary to remove the upper crotch beads with a height of a quarter of the diameter from the spikes of the processed log. But in the process of processing the upper part of the thorn, the inclined bottom of the nest will be slightly below this border. For this reason, the log will sink a little deeper. The amount of settlement will be equal to the difference in height between the left (shortened) and right sides of the template. Let's say this difference is 20 mm. Therefore, the starting point of the marking 4 must be raised by this value.

With this in mind, let's start marking the first paw. We are standing in front of a log. We need to remove the upper crooks from the left and right spikes and cut out the nests. Let's start with the right spike. Having checked the verticality of the end line of the thorn, mark the point (4) on its inner (right) face. Then we put the template on the end so that the sharp corner is on it. Align the template along its plumb line and draw a line along the inclined edge (3) to the left border of the thorn. We continue it along the pattern on the outer cheek (1).

Then we transfer the template to the inner cheek. Having imposed an acute angle on the familiar point (4), we draw a third oblique line, indicated in the figure by a dotted line. Following this, we put the template on the back of the thorn perpendicular to the axis of the log. Align the outer edge with the plane of the butt and draw the upper border of the paw - the cut line (7). Mark the cut with verticals on the inner and outer cheeks up to the sloped lines just drawn. The markup is complete. We have fixed the contours of the upper leg and the removable snapper.

The figure shows a scan of the outer boundaries of the paw socket bottom. They form a continuous line at the end and outer cheek. On the inner cheek, it is directed downward. All three segments are located in one plane (the plane of the bottom), along which the slab must be cut down to form a nest. As can be seen from the figure, the bottom slopes not only towards the outer cheek, but also towards the frame.

The left paw is marked in exactly the same way as the right one, only the point of the beginning of the marking (4) will be located on the left edge of the tenon. The bottom of the nest will also be tilted towards the outer cheek and frame.

Usually, after marking, they begin to remove the crotch, that is, the formation of the upper part of the paw. But for a novice carpenter, it may be wiser to mark out the remaining three legs, and only then start cutting them down. The sequential repetition of already familiar operations will strengthen the technique of their implementation and the acquired skills. It is known that repetition is the mother of learning.

All slabs are removed in a familiar way.

Marking and cutting the paws of the second upper pair of the crown

When all 4 legs of the first pair are formed, check the parallelism of the logs, which could be violated during operation. They are in the correct position if the distance between the center lines at the ends is the same. Checking is carried out with a metal string or tape measure. When the next pair of logs rolls up, the lower ones may move. To fix their position, the end lines are transferred with a plumb line to the support

The upper logs are rolled along the slopes imposed on the paws of the first (lower) ones, and are located 25-30 cm from the ends. On the new pair, it is necessary to cut out the spikes, and then the lower sockets of the connecting paws.

The task is facilitated by the fact that almost all the operations to be performed are already familiar. Therefore, we will describe in detail only the new ones. The first four operations in the formation of thorns are known: help the log to take an equilibrium position; conduct vertical lines of equilibrium at the ends; denote the lateral borders of the thorns; remove the crotch. The next operation is new. After cutting the thorns, the log must be placed with thorns in the lower connecting sockets. This is necessary to fix the inner ends of the spikes on the lower backs (3).

Since the operation of planting logs in the lower slots will often be repeated, we will consider the technique of its execution in more detail. It is carried out with the obligatory safety net with a gate cable, which is chosen (pulled) to such an extent that it does not interfere with the lowering of the log. The log is placed on the bottom pair with the bottom towards the wall and moved to the nests. This is done with the nose of an ax, alternately slipping under the cheek of the thorns, with the hatchet they act as a lever. When the spikes protrude beyond the inner ends, the log is turned over by means of a stag. This operation is performed from the side of the log house (in our case, standing on the ground inside it), the handle of the stag is held in front of them.

Instead of a stag, you can use a half-meter lever with a short string at the end. It is wrapped around a log a couple of times and pressed with a lever. By pushing the lever away from you, even a very heavy log can be turned over.

With a deep nest, to soften the impact of the log on the bottom, kolobashki are placed on the paws, sometimes to the level of the backs of the lower pair. When the thorns are on the bells, they are knocked out to the outside, and the log sits in the nests. As such linings, it is convenient to use the previously removed snappers.

The thorns in the nests should be vertical, with the inner cheeks firmly adhering to the ends of the nests. The mating line of the upper log with the lower one (line of the inner end) is cut with a hacksaw to a depth of 3-4 mm. To do this, it is tightly pressed against the inner cheek of the lower paw.

To make it easier to roll the log onto the frame after performing this operation, it is slightly raised by driving wedges under the spikes. On a log house, the log is placed with the bottom up, fastened with brackets and proceeds to mark the paws using already familiar techniques. In this case, the end lines must, of course, occupy a vertical position.

When marking the paw, it must be borne in mind that its connecting socket in its configuration will be completely identical to the one with which it is to be mated. Turned down, it will be a mirror image of it. And this is natural: in the working position, the bottom of the upper paw should be ideally aligned with the lower one.

For marking, the log is placed with the bottom up and is well fastened with brackets in this position. When marking the paw, the template is located at the ends in the same way as if you wanted to repeat the marking of the lower end of the butt. The starting point of the marking (4) on both spikes is applied to the end face of the inner cheeks and rises by the same 20 mm from the upper quarter. As you can see, the repetition of the familiar begins. For reinsurance, you can use a ruler to check how much the upper log will rise above the lower one after cutting the nest.

Having formed the mating paws, the log is moved to the edges of the connecting nests with the usual actions, turned over and put into the working position.

If no mistakes were made when marking and processing the paws, then the aligned surfaces of the upper and lower paws will fit tightly to each other. In case of unsatisfactory contact (there are gaps), the places to be trimmed are marked with a pencil and the log is raised to the frame for revision.

It is clear that all manipulations with logs are secured with a gate cable.

To make it easier to lift the log from the paws to the frame, different methods are used, besides the one described. If the log is not very heavy, the end ends can be lifted one by one with an ax, like a lever, by slipping the nose under the paw. Buzzers of the required thickness (height) are placed in the formed slots.

Sometimes a small diameter pipe or a piece of angle iron, or even just a short and strong wagu, is used to raise the end of a log. Such a tool is slipped under it and, resting its end on the lower log, is lifted. A kolobashka is inserted between the paws. When performing these operations, you must always stand so that in the event of an unexpected fall, the log does not touch.

Having eliminated the flaws, the log is put back in place. This maneuver sometimes has to be repeated several times. As a rule, failures are laid when marking inclined surfaces. It is enough to slightly displace the template from the vertical, and the mismatch is guaranteed. After such failures, the thought naturally comes up that the construction of a log house largely depends on pencil, almost clerical work. You made a mistake with a pencil, but you correct it with an ax.

The marking of the paws can also be performed using the Compass, transferring the anchor points from the lower to the upper or vice versa.

The second longitudinal log is processed in the same way.

After the installation of the basic crown, you can congratulate yourself on the fact that the very first and therefore the most difficult stage of training has been left behind. Further it will be easier, since it will be possible to rely on the experience already acquired.

The crown of the log house is one row of logs in the horizontal plane. The first crown of a log house is called a flap.

The bathhouse frame consists of a different number of crowns. It depends on the thickness of the logs. With a standard bathhouse frame height of 2.2 meters, we get an average of 8 to 10 crowns. Most of the requirements go to the first crown of a log house, which is subject to various loads.

Crown wreath

Since no one wants to wait for the shrinkage of a log house for a whole year, we have to use a pine tree as a crown. If the frame is left to shrink, then aspen can also be used. Until the aspen is overwhelmed, it must be kept dry. Therefore, pine is better able to cope with weather events and moisture.

To waterproof the flange from the foundation, we use roofing material folded in two layers. Also, a red brick base does not allow condensation to form on the first crown of the bathhouse, which has a positive effect on its durability.

It is also necessary to additionally install ebbs for the basement, they are also mounted in the first crown of a log house, to prevent moisture from entering the space between the log and the brick.

Crown of logs

becoming- four logs, connected by ends, by cutting one into another, into a quadrangular frame and forming part of the walls of the hut, or outbuildings of a cold building - log cabins(see this word). The first, closest to the earth, V. is called bottom, and the upper one, on which the logs are placed for the construction of the ceiling - depressing.

Encyclopedic Dictionary of F.A. Brockhaus and I.A. Efron. - S.-Pb .: Brockhaus-Efron. 1890-1907 .

See what the "Crown of Logs" is in other dictionaries:

Husband. ring, rim, hoop, circle, strip in a circle, with · mean. exalted position or honorable value of a thing. | Outline of radiance, brilliance around the saint's head on icons; | royal head ornament, crown; | maiden headband, ... ... Dahl's Explanatory Dictionary

CROWN, crowns, husband. 1. A headdress, a kind of metal wreath or crown, placed on someone as a sign of conferring a high rank on him or as a sign of an honorary award for merit (bookish obsolete). Tsarist vets. || transfer Successful completion of which ... Ushakov's Explanatory Dictionary

Crown- - a horizontal row of logs or logs interconnected in the corners by cuttings. [STB 1725 2007] Term heading: Wooden products Encyclopedia headings: Abrasive equipment, Abrasives, Roads ... Encyclopedia of terms, definitions and explanations of building materials

Crown- in architecture, one horizontal row of logs (beams) connected (hewn) in the corners of the quadrangle with each other. Several crowns, laid on top of each other, form the frame of the structure and determine its height, and the length of the logs is the area. Logs in V. ... ... Russian humanitarian encyclopedic dictionary

crown- nza /, pl. ntso / v, ntso / m, m. 1) Precious headdress, crown as a symbol of the power of the monarch. Royal crown. And she throws her diamond crown, leaves the golden palace ... (Soloviev). 2) only a few, high. A wreath (usually as a symbol of suffering, ... ... Popular dictionary of the Russian language

Nza; m. 1. unit only. High. Wreath (usually as a symbol of suffering, martyrdom). Ternovy V. (symbol of martyrdom, suffering). Take martyr's c. (deliberately doom yourself to torment, suffering). ● According to the Gospel story, before the execution ... ... encyclopedic Dictionary

crown- VENETS1, ntsa, m An optical phenomenon, which is a light rainbow ring, a rim around the Sun, Moon, bright stars, light sources. A silver crown appeared around the street lamp. VENETS2, nza, m A subject used in the Orthodox and ... ... Explanatory dictionary of Russian nouns

Crown- (gr. - crown) - ring-shaped radiance around the head of Jesus Christ, the Mother of God, the apostles and saints, symbolizing the strength of the spirit, greatness, durability. The same meanings are preserved behind wreaths - of leaves, branches and flowers. They are used as a symbol ... ... Fundamentals of Spiritual Culture (Teacher's Encyclopedic Dictionary)

In wooden construction, the crown is one row of horizontal logs or logs.

The entire future "fate" of the structure depends on how accurately the first (or flap) crown of a log or half-timbered house will be assembled and installed, and the foundation, for example, made of concrete blocks, is qualitatively insulated from moisture penetration. They say that in ancient times, log cabins were built with their own hands without a foundation, and the casing was wrapped in several layers of birch bark and laid on the ground. The technology is very dubious, because it has long been known that a reliable foundation is the key to the strength and longevity of any building.

Wreath in frame construction

Frame or half-timbered houses came to us from Europe and immediately proved themselves from the best sides. The walls of a building consist of a frame and filler, which is used as aerated concrete, any lightweight blocks, glass, brick and anything else. But for the frame, glued laminated timber is best suited. It is stronger than a timber made of natural wood, is not subject to decay, deformation.

The first crown from a bar is built in a certain sequence:

the leveling of the top of the base under the level is done, then the roofing material is spread in at least two layers on the bituminous mastic; for greater confidence, it is necessary to lay at least one layer of glass insulation;
further, a substrate of boards or slats of small thickness, impregnated with an antiseptic composition, is laid along the waterproofing; this procedure is performed for additional protection of the walls, it also prevents the lower beam from contacting the foundation;
checking the level of the building level;
preparation of a bar for the device of the first crown of the foundation: cutting along the longitudinal and transverse dimensions of the base, coating the space between the bars with diluted bitumen mastic to protect against rotting and fungus;
the installation of a bar along the perimeter of the foundation is carried out with strict observance of horizontal level.

Installation methods for the first row

There are several ways to lay the bottom row of beams. The angles must be exactly 90 °. This strict requirement must be observed throughout the entire building construction process.

Without fixing the timber to the foundation. It is believed that the structure will stand securely under its own weight. In this case, corner joints are made without a lock connection. The expectation is that any lower bar, if necessary, can be easily replaced. Such a decision may raise some doubts about its correctness, especially in the presence of seismic manifestations.
With fastening to the foundation and to each other. The bars can be connected in two ways, they are called "in the bowl" or "in the paw". Pins or strong nails are used as fasteners. The timber is attached to the foundation with special elements.

Slots or gaps between the timber and the foundation must not be left open; they must be filled with foam or some other sealing agent. There is another way to minimize such gaps - to build a foundation of blocks with opposite walls of different heights to match the height of the timber. You will have to tinker with the foundation of the blocks, but there is an obvious saving of sealing materials.

When constructing the first crown, the more often the horizontality of the latter is verified, the better the overall result will be and there will be no problems with the further construction of the walls.

It is these buildings that have absorbed the best qualities and technologies of residential and economic construction. During the construction of a frame house, the consumption of basic and auxiliary building materials is reduced. New materials, for example, aerated concrete, glued beams, have also been widely used.

In addition, the construction of a half-timbered house with aerated concrete filler is much cheaper than, say, a brick or block house. And in terms of construction time, a house with aerated concrete filler wins. It is noteworthy that such a structure can be easily disassembled and it is quite simple to move it from one place to another.

Only the foundation remains stationary. Frame buildings made of laminated veneer lumber and infills of aerated concrete, glass, blocks and other materials are resistant to precipitation, decay and fungi, do not get wet. They are not susceptible to shrinkage, cracking, warm in themselves. And if the filling between the uprights, cross-beams and braces is made of aerated concrete, then the house is relatively light in weight and does not require a powerful foundation of blocks.

Such a house with aerated concrete filler, if desired, can be built with your own hands. You just need to stock up on materials, tools and carefully study the project and technology.

Internal walls and partitions in a frame house can be made of aerated concrete - a lightweight, durable and warm material.

Construction of the first crown of a log house

For the device of the first row of a wooden blockhouse, rounded logs of hardwood are usually chosen. Such, for example, as larch or oak, which are less susceptible to rotting and fungal attack. Close and scrupulous attention to the construction of the first crown is not in vain because the bottom row is primarily and most exposed to moisture due to its proximity to the soil. In addition, the entire further process of building a house depends on the accuracy of the installation of the first crown.

Preparatory work for the beginning of the construction of a log structure is the same as for a frame one. This means that it is necessary first of all to align the upper surface of the foundation, to level it.

The level and plumb line should accompany the entire process of building a house, from the foundation to the roof. For a house to serve its owner for a long time and reliably, its walls must be strictly vertical, and right angles are 90 degrees, not 89 or 91.

It is also necessary to approach the waterproofing of all sides of the base responsibly and do everything right: thoroughly coat the side walls with bitumen mastic and put the required number of rows of roofing material and glass insulation on top.

Insulating roll materials must never be laid dry. The use of bituminous mastic is mandatory. This is both a mount and additional protection from external influences at the same time. The process of constructing a log cabin is notable for the fact that you cannot put any logs in a row in the crown. Here each log must "know its place", and for this they are all marked, including those intended for the first crown. It is very important that such marks must match when the logs touch.

Watch a video of how the initial crowns of a wooden house are laid.

Work order

In some cases, in order to protect the first row of wood from the cold concrete of the foundation, it is possible to lay down rods (underlays). Whether it is obligatory to do this or not is a controversial issue and each builder decides it individually. But if it is decided to lay, then both the beds and the logs are certainly carefully treated with an antiseptic and protection against moisture penetration.

The next stage is the laying of embedded (longitudinal) logs of the first row. To ensure stability, the lower part is cut off. Next, the transverse logs are installed, the marking of which must exactly coincide with the marks on the longitudinal ones. Only if these requirements are met, the blockhouse will turn out to be smooth. During the installation of the first row, the dimensions of the building perimeter and the correctness of the diagonals are checked.

A further task that must be solved is to close up the gap between the foundation and the first row. For this, craftsmen often use small tree trunks of the same species that was used for the first crown. They are adjusted according to the size of the gap, sealed with a heater specially designed for this purpose. Sizing is done by cutting off excess wood from the top and bottom of the log.

The procedure is very important, since it depends on it whether it will be warm and dry in the house or not. Therefore, if in the process of sealing the cracks there is no access to all the necessary places, then the transverse logs are disassembled. Eliminate all cracks and gaps between the logs in the longitudinal direction, then return the crossbars to their places. In some cases, instead of tow or moss, ordinary cement mortar or polyurethane foam is also used to seal cracks.

Foundation waterproofing

High-quality waterproofing of the foundation protects the walls of the house and its interior well from moisture penetration. Waterproofing must be correct and selected depending on the level of groundwater in a particular area.

If the level is high, then when constructing the foundation, it makes sense to lay a drainage system to drain water. Drainage can be done from a perforated pipe laid in the ground just below the foundation with a slope around the perimeter and drainage of water into a storm well.

Watch the video on how to properly waterproof the lower logs at home.

The vertical walls of the base (cast or from blocks) are coated with several layers of bitumen mastic, which is diluted with diesel fuel or used oil. Horizontal waterproofing most often consists of two or three layers of roofing material on bitumen and one layer of glass insulation.

These works can be easily done with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists. But first, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of the upper surface of the base, and, if necessary, level it with cement mortar or boards. Waterproofing should be arranged in such a way that it is wider than the foundation, in order to prevent moisture from entering the walls, as well as to better protect the base.

The more thoroughly and correctly the preparatory work is performed, the less problems will arise with the exact installation of the first crown, on which the quality of all further work depends.

The assembly of the log house is carried out according to the crowns. The crowns can be from one log, if the structure is small, and from several logs spliced in a certain way. Let's consider in detail the procedure for assembling a log house.

Everyone knows that a tree grows unevenly in thickness. More to the south than to the north. And the width of the annual rings, respectively, is less from the north, and more - from the south. The lower the density of wood, the better its thermal protection. Therefore, if the log is even, then it is laid so that the denser side, the northern one, is outside the frame, this part of the log is less susceptible to cracking. But there is usually not much timber, all trees have a certain curvature. Slightly curved logs are laid, regardless of the location of the annual rings, with the "hump" downward or upward. If there are a lot of bent logs or all of them, and they are the same, then when laying with a "hump" outward, it is almost impossible to notice the curvature of the finished wall.

When laying the crowns of a log house, a sealing layer is laid between the logs. Traditionally it is forest moss. Often, jute fiber is used as a mezhventsovy sealant.

Log assembly rules

Laying logs in crowns. There are two ways of laying - butt to the top and butt to butt (top to top). But if you need to make horizontal alignment in a row, this rule can be changed.
To obtain the required rigidity in the structure of a log house, they are fixed in vertical planes using dowels - parts made of wood, turned in the form of a round or square rod. Two or three logs pass with dowels at once, into the drilled holes, such an attachment is made in each crown. Holes are drilled with wood drills from 450 mm in length and 25 mm in diameter. Distances between the holes are selected from 80 to 150 cm. At least 100 mm should remain from the edges of the openings and bowls. The pins are hammered into the holes with a hammer, into the "tightness". The use of metal pins instead of wooden dowels for a log house is unacceptable. Firstly, the metal condenses moisture from the air, and wood decay becomes possible in the seals inside the walls. Secondly, when driving pointed pins, free shrinkage of the logs is impossible, the logs "hang" on the pins during the drying process, the frame does not sit down, and the gaps between the crowns increase.

After the frame is assembled, the protruding parts of the logs in the corners are cut to the mark, but not less than 200 mm from the corners to the ends. The ends of the logs are cut down along the vertical markings. Exposed grain ends dry faster than mid-lengths of logs and can crack deeply. To avoid this, use acrylic varnishes or PVA glue to cover the ends. Historically, clay and lime mortar were used for this purpose.
For the device of window and door openings, holes are not always left in the frame or they are deliberately made smaller. Be sure to leave only the opening for the entrance to the inside of the log house. After the shrinkage of the frame, the openings for the windows and doors are cut to the required dimensions, taking into account the connection to the landing spike.

The device of the lower flange of a log house

The wreath is closest to the ground, it has more moisture from rain and snow. Therefore, it requires special attention. The bottom crown waterproofing is made of rolled bituminous materials in two or three layers. The waterproofing layer is laid along the upper edge of the foundation under the lower crown, and must prevent the log from getting wet from the foundation.

The thickest logs are taken to make the cap. It is best to use wood species that are resistant to decay - oak or larch.

The logs in the crowns fall on different levels horizontally, the difference is 0.5 of the diameter of the log. There are two ways to arrange the bottom crown.

The first method for the device of the lower crown

Two logs are placed on the foundation, chipped at the bottom by 50 mm, so that the logs fit more tightly to the foundation. A sealing material is laid under the logs on the waterproofing, the same one that will go under all the following crowns. The most commonly used fibers are jute and tow. Traditionally - moss.

This method of laying has a disadvantage - a large gap between the foundation and the logs located at the top of the crown. This gap is sealed with wood in the form of a bar or halves of logs, or bricks. It is possible, when arranging the foundation formwork, to make its opposite sides at different elevations, then there will be no gaps under the lower crown.

But this method has a significant advantage, since the logs are stacked in one piece. And whole logs are the most durable.

The second method for the device of the lower rim

With this method of laying, there is no gap between the crown and the foundation, since the lower logs are hewn to the middle, and the upper ones - by 50 mm for a tight fit on the foundation.

In the corners of the logs, the flange is connected with corner cuts, which are called "in ochryap".

Since the logs are being processed, measures must be taken to prevent rotting of the lower cut sides adjacent to the foundation waterproofing. here an antiseptic is needed, it is applied in 4-5 layers with a brush or roller. Sometimes a board is laid under the cap. They call it that - a flashing board. It is much easier to replace this board if it decays than crown logs. Using jacks, they raise the blockhouse and replace the old board with a new one. The board has a width of 250-300 mm and a thickness of 50 - 80 mm. For its manufacture, wood species resistant to decay are used - oak or larch. Thorough antiseptic treatment is performed, as an option, it is kept in used engine oil (working off). It is impossible to antisept wood, especially undried wood, using bitumen and mastics. Due to the capillary structure of wood, it rots very quickly if the capillaries are clogged with resins or bitumen. Wrapping in roll-up waterproofing material has the same effect.

The laying of a mezheventsovy sealant must be done both under the first crown between it and the flashing board, and between the foundation waterproofing and the flashing board, that is, everywhere.

As a result of atmospheric influences, the bezel is damp for most of the year, that is, almost constantly. therefore, to increase the durability of the lower logs, it is practical to arrange visors or overhangs over them, for example, from galvanized steel.

The next topic is the types of cutting corners.