How to insulate a mansard roof. Insulation of the attic room Modern insulation of the attic
Turning an unused attic into a cozy and warm attic can be done on your own. This can be a forced decision if you need another room or a cozy place to relax. The reasons that prompted you to make this decision are not important, the main thing is that it is possible and not as laborious as it seems. How to properly insulate the attic, what materials will be needed for this - this is the first thing worth knowing.
Attic insulation materials
To make the attic really warm, you need to insulate the floor, gables (walls), and the roof. You need to select the material taking into account your requirements and capabilities.
In order for the microclimate of the room to be comfortable, the material for insulation must have moisture resistance, low thermal conductivity and fire resistance. Environmental friendliness is also an important requirement, the observance of which will ensure not only a comfortable, but also a healthy microclimate.
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Options for materials for insulation of the attic
Types of attic insulation: shavings, expanded clay, foamed rubber, expanded polystyrene, liquid foam, mineral wool.
- Glass wool.
- Mineral wool.
- Extruded polystyrene foam.
- Styrofoam.
- Expanded clay.
- Sawdust with clay.
Each of the heaters has its own heat transfer coefficient, therefore, when choosing, focus on the climate of your area. To carry out the work efficiently, you need to find out everything about the selected insulation, up to how and where it is worth storing it.
For example, after opening the package, mineral wool significantly increases in volume, therefore, it will take a lot of space to store it. Also, to work with mineral wool and glass wool, you will need protective equipment, such as a respirator, gloves and heavy clothing.
How to properly insulate the walls, ceiling, that is, the roof and the floor, what stages of work you are facing, you should find out in advance and prepare thoroughly for the upcoming work.
When arranging an attic room, think about all the little things in advance and foresee surprises.
Thorough preparation is half the battle.
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Step-by-step description of attic insulation
- The first step is to check the condition of the entire structure, its reliability, as well as the identification of areas covered with fungal mold. If necessary, if this has not been done earlier, it is necessary to process all the elements with special means that protect the material from decay, since after insulation it will be impossible to do this.
- Next, proceed to the creation of the under-roof waterproofing, which is installed on top of the rafter structure.
To do this, you will need:
- Nails or staples.
- Insulating material.
The insulation is made with an overlap equal to 10 cm. The canvases are laid across the slope, starting from the sections in the eaves area and moving towards the roof ridge, securing them with staples or nails. It is very important to lay the waterproofing with a sagging of 1 cm, this will help prevent its damage in the future with a sharp change in temperature.
It is worth noting that if the thermal insulation of the attic roof is insufficient or incorrect, then in the spring you are guaranteed the appearance of icicles, which, if knocked down, can damage the roof. This is another reason to approach work more carefully and responsibly.
Now it is necessary to install the counter battens and lathing, for this they usually use blocks with a size of 5x5 cm. The bars of the lathing are fastened across, with a step determined based on the material of the roof.
The counter lattice is placed along the rafters, its height should create a ventilation gap for the insulation layer. To determine the size of the ventilation gap, you need to divide the length of the slope by 500, but it should be borne in mind that this value should not be less than 2 cm.
After that, be sure to treat the crate and counter-lattice with special means of protection against decay and mold. By the way, it is undesirable to use a spray gun for this, it is much more effective to coat wooden surfaces with a paint brush or roller. The spray gun is used only for hard-to-reach places.
The next stage is the implementation of direct thermal insulation work. To prevent the appearance of gaps between heat insulators, it will be correct to start installing the insulation from the bottom up.
It is imperative to press the materials tightly against each other, loose fit and cracks will lead to freezing and the formation of ice on the roofing surface. If you mount the insulation in two layers, then in this case the seams of the upper one should overlap the lower ones, that is, the installation is carried out "sprawling".
When working with oblique corners, the heat insulator is given the desired shape in advance. After completion of work, it is necessary to check the entire insulated surface for the detection of cracks.
If there are any, then they need to be repaired as follows. To do this, a strip is cut off from the insulation sheet, the width of which should exceed the width of the slot by more than 1 cm, and set in a spacer on the problem area.
The vapor barrier is stretched over the insulation materials. Fastening is done using a conventional construction stapler. The material is also laid with an overlap of 10 cm.
Foil type film is well suited for vapor barrier. It prevents moisture from lower rooms and reflects radiant heat very effectively. Duct tape is used to reinforce the joints.
After installing the vapor barrier, horizontal bars must be fixed to the guide beams. Thus, you will create an internal lathing, the task of which, firstly, is to create additional fastening for the heat layer, and secondly, to protect the vapor layer from mechanical damage. Thirdly, it is an excellent and very convenient basis for decorative finishing of the attic.
For example, if you plan to use drywall for the final finishing, then fasten the bars in 59 cm increments, just this distance is required to place one drywall board.
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Whether you are building a new structure or remodeling a roof for additional rooms, you need to take care of how to make high-quality insulation. If the roof is already covered, all work from the inside is carried out taking into account the geometry of the roof and the climatic characteristics of the region. In this material, we have collected all the necessary information about possible methods of insulation and will provide you with practical recommendations from professionals.
A well-insulated attic can serve as a bedroom or even a children's room.
Useful information and video on how to insulate an attic for winter living
A lot depends on the high-quality insulation of the attic roof. If you plan to use this room during the winter, you need to think carefully about what materials to use for thermal insulation. Another important aspect is the construction of the roof.
The peculiarity of the under-roof space is not only in geometry, in winter it is colder here than in other rooms, and in summer it is hotter. To maintain the optimum temperature, roofers recommend forming a multi-layer "cake" of waterproofing under the roofing, and.
An important point! With a large heat loss through the roof in winter, the snow on it begins to melt and forms an ice crust. And water, as you know, looks for any, even the smallest loophole. So an ice roof is bad, there is a good chance that you will get a leak.
The need for waterproofing work
All fibrous heat insulators, one way or another, absorb moisture. It can form due to blemishes in the roofing or the formation of condensation inside the room due to temperature differences. Moisture trapped in the insulation adversely affects its condition. To prevent this is the task of the waterproofing layer.
Modern construction technologies involve the use of membrane materials. They prevent the formation of condensation and at the same time do not allow external moisture to pass through.
The size of suburban areas and the desire of their owners to use the fertile soil layer to the maximum convinces them to make decisions about expanding useful areas in a vertical, not horizontal direction. It is easier and more profitable to equip an attic above the bathhouse than to attach an additional rest room to it or build a separate house. True, this option will be acceptable only if there are more than 50% of the useful under-roof space with a height of 2.5 m, and if the ceiling above the bath is designed in such a way that you can walk on the upper plane without fear. In the presence of the listed prerequisites, insulation of the attic will make it possible to turn it into an excellent living compartment.
- To begin with, the roof configuration is far from the shape of a classic cube. The insulation will have to be mounted on inclined surfaces. And since we are considering the insulation of the attic from the inside, it is impossible not to take into account the complexity of installing soft and flexible roll materials.
- Recall that the overwhelming majority of the top fencing area is a roof structure with a rafter system. Its coating is made of extremely lightweight materials with high waterproofing qualities, but also with considerable thermal conductivity. Wooden elements of the truss structure are laid with gaps that do not form a thermal barrier.
- Let's take into account that in the attic floor there is not only a roof surface, but also at least two pediments and a valley. To leave without insulation or to insulate them poorly means to nullify all efforts in general.
- Let's not forget that the roofing material, which does not allow atmospheric moisture to pass through, at the same time prevents the escape of vapors that are natural for the bath and not only for it.
- We will ensure the safety of using the dwelling by insulating the attic roof with materials with the environmental and hygienic characteristics required for home furnishing.
Summarizing the above criteria, we will compose a kind of formula from the requirements that the thermal insulation system under construction must meet. According to the tasks set for the insulation, we will select the material and find out all the technological nuances. For the effective operation of thermal insulation, it is necessary that:
- a layer of insulation completely covered the inner surfaces without "gaps" in a kind of carpet, so that there were no weak points in the thermal insulation system in the form of an unprotected ridge and gables not covered with an insulator;
- the insulating material that resists the attacks of a cold atmospheric front from the outside and a warm moist front from the inside was protected from condensation formed as a result of their confrontation;
- no moisture accumulated on the outer surface of the heat-insulating layer, which was not passed outside by the waterproofing roofing, so that excess moisture is removed through the ventilation ducts;
- lightweight roofing insulation was equipped with a windscreen, which prevents heat from blowing out of the attic on windy days;
- the material is suitable for technical, technological and sanitary-hygienic parameters.
The listed requirements are a detailed answer to the question "how to properly insulate the attic." If the thermal insulation system meets all the conditions, then it will serve for a long time and work effectively.
Choosing the right insulation
From a technological point of view, slabs are best suited to create a thermal insulation system from the inside. Using the material that holds the shape is easier, faster and more convenient to do the insulation of the attic with your own hands with a minimum number of additional fixing devices. For their correct installation, longitudinal bars are nailed to the rafters with dimensions that allow for a ventilation gap. The outer plane of the bars must coincide with the outer plane of the elements of the rafter system, the inner plane of the heat-insulating material must coincide with the inner plane of the rafters.
Note. If the power of the selected insulation is greater than the width of the rafter, an additional beam will have to be nailed to each of the elements of the rafter system or installed on the screws. Wooden additions must be treated with an antiseptic before installation.
In any case, both with sufficient and with insufficient width of the rafters, the ventilation space between the insulation and the roofing material must be left.
The indicators of the heat engineering qualities of the material determine the climatic features of the region. The collection of building standards under the number 23-02-2003 will help to find out them. According to the indicator specified in SNiP, you need to select material.
- Polyfoam is a budget material and a convenient way of insulation. Lightweight slabs will be easy to install, the thermal insulation system will insignificantly increase the weight of the roof. However, the weak ability to conduct steam and the attractiveness as a tasty dish for mice make one think about whether it is worth insulating the attic with foam.
- Minvata is also a convenient and democratic option. Slabs cut to fit a couple of cm larger than the gap between the rafters are easy to install. Before installation, the insulation element must be slightly squeezed and positioned in the required place. Having straightened out, elastic mineral wool will firmly "sit" in its nest. Glass wool can be used as a practically equivalent alternative.
- Expanded polystyrene is usually laid on top of the rafter system, forming a ventilation gap by installing a counter batten between the insulation plates and the roof covering. It is not suitable for insulating the roofing system from the inside, but it can be used to insulate the gables.
- Polyurethane foam - easily applied to a surface of any complexity by spraying. A contractor with a portable installation supplying a foam insulating substance under pressure is subject to planes with any slope. Insulation of the attic with polyurethane foam will allow you to create a monolithic layer without the slightest gaps. In addition, a vapor barrier will not be needed to protect the interior from the effects of condensation.
- Ecowool is a heat insulator from the category of sprayed materials. Its properties are similar to wood, it contains an antiseptic that prevents deterioration of the insulating layer and wood in contact with it. Just like the previous analogue, it creates a continuous cover that does not sag in the process of many years of use. For thermal insulation with ecowool, it will be necessary to mount a false ceiling and install a crate for attaching a vapor barrier material to it.
- Foil materials that work not only as insulation, but also as a mirror reflector of the heat tending to come out. In order for the foil-clad heat insulator to perform excellently, it is necessary to unfold it during installation with an aluminum layer inside the room and leave a distance of 5 cm between it and the vapor barrier layer.
The list is quite sufficient to have something to focus on, but mineral wool is recognized as the most popular materials for insulation from the inside. Spraying with polyurethane foam is popular, but not everyone is available due to the lack of a device, which, however, can be rented for a while at a construction company. It remains only to figure out how to insulate the attic with your own hands and get an excellent result.
What should be the correct constructive pie?
An exaggerated thermal insulation system is the following constructive pie, if you start listing the layers from the side of the space being equipped:
- Plasterboard cladding.
- A vapor barrier layer, preferably a variant of the membrane type. It is a continuous casing created from strips of rolled material laid with a 10-cm overlap. The canvases are fastened along horizontal and vertical joints with special adhesive tape.
- The lathing has three functions. The slats attached across the rafters hold the insulation, serve as the basis for fixing the vapor barrier and form a ventilation space, which is especially necessary when using foil-clad material.
- Insulation, laid in one or more layers, depending on the generated thermal effect. When insulating the attic from the side of the room, it is mounted between the rafters.
- A waterproofing layer that protects the insulation from getting wet, which results in a decrease in thermal properties.
Note. Builders who thoroughly know how to insulate an attic are strongly advised to leave a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation material and the waterproofing. According to technological standards, its absence is considered a gross mistake.
- Another counter-lattice that creates a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the roofing material. Ventilation in this case is necessary to remove moisture accumulating on the waterproofing membrane. To drain moisture, holes are provided in the area of the base of the slopes and in the area of the valley. The width of the ventilation gap is determined by the roofing material. If the roof is covered with tiles, slate, corrugated board or corrugated ondulin, it is enough to leave 25 mm, if you need to leave 50 mm with a flat material without a profile relief.
- Windproof vapor barrier equipping the ventilation space. It is needed to preserve heat in the case of active ventilation in the ventilation gap. It is laid over the rafter legs, fastened with slats, on top of which the roofing is mounted.
Carrying out the attic insulation with your own hands, observing all the subtleties, the owner of a bath with an attic will provide himself with a comfortable living space, eliminating the need to build a house on a summer cottage. To equip an attic roof for housing, you do not need to obtain permits and seek the consent of neighbors. But the benefits and economic effect are obvious.
Most often, when building a house, an attic room is immediately thought of as a residential one. At the same time, the question arises of how to insulate the attic so that it is a usable area not only in summer, but also in winter. But sometimes it also happens that the idea of arranging a room in it arises already in the process of building an attic. If the roof slopes are located at an angle of 35 ÷ 45 degrees, and are raised high enough, the design of the attic as a cozy room suggests itself.
Of course, in this case, you will have to turn to specialists who are professionally engaged in such a technological process of insulation and have the necessary equipment for this. But on the other hand, you can free yourself from all further worries about warming the slopes and get such a thermal insulating layer that does not require waterproofing, since by itself it will tightly close the inner surface of the roof and rafters.
Materials for self-insulation of the attic
If the waterproofing film is laid on the rafters, then the following insulation materials can be used for further work:
- Mineral wool is the most popular insulation, which in terms of parameters is excellent for thermal insulation of a wooden roof system and roof slopes. Minwata is heat and moisture resistant, has a very low thermal conductivity, is durable, elastic, which is very convenient when performing installation work. In addition, all types of mineral wool are excellent noise absorbers and sound insulators... Sometimes, in order to enhance the insulating effect, sprayed polyurethane foam is also used in combination with mineral wool. This option is especially in demand in the northern regions with a cold climate.
Mineral wool is produced in different forms - in mats and rolls. It can also be foil-coated. A material with a similar layer is laid with foil inside the room, so that the accumulated heat is reflected back.
- Expanded polystyrene () is a well-known insulation, affordable and easy to install. However, practice shows that often this material alone is not enough to make the attic room really warm, since it does not adhere sufficiently to the roof surface.
It can also be used in combination with sprayed insulation. In addition, ordinary expanded polystyrene (not extruded) is not resistant to fire, and emits toxic substances during combustion - this fact must also be taken into account when a choice is made in favor of one or another insulation.
- Polyurethane foam can be sprayed in several layers, and have, in principle, any desired thickness, which is required for high-quality insulation of the attic. When solidified, it acquires a fairly high density, it is easily leveled along the rafters by cutting off excess foam. The sprayed material will penetrate all the cracks and close them from the penetration of drafts and precipitation. Moreover, it also gives the roof and roof structure additional resistance to mechanical stress.
The sprayed material rapidly expands and hardens. Applying it, you can do not only without waterproofing, but also without vapor barrier, since this material, in a frozen state, easily copes with these problems - it does not delay the exit for steam, but at the same time, it does not let moisture inside.
Sprayed polyurethane foam can be used not only for insulating the slopes and walls of the attic, but also for its floors. It is also sprayed between the wooden parts of the structure, in this case, between the floor beams.
- Ecowool is a shredded material made from natural cellulose with appropriate additives. It is good for them to insulate the gaps between the floor beams. Shredded ecowool is not very suitable for wall insulation, since it does not have such a pronounced adhesive property as polyurethane. However, there is a wet adhesive spraying technology, but it necessarily requires sophisticated professional equipment.
In order to create the required thickness of the layer of insulation, trusses made of galvanized metal profiles are arranged across the floor beams. The space between them will be filled with ecowool. This process is carried out using special equipment - a compression unit through a special pipe carries out pneumatic transfer of material under pressure from the hopper or mixer to the place of its laying.
TOP 10 best heaters for the attic
| Photo | Name | Rating | Price | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| The best basalt heaters | ||||||
| #1 |
|
Hotrock smart | ⭐ 99 / 100 | |||
| #2 |
|
Rockwool | ⭐ 98 / 100 | |||
| The best fiberglass insulation | ||||||
| #1 |
|
Ursa geo | ⭐ 99 / 100 | |||
| #2 |
|
Isover Warm House | ⭐ 98 / 100 | |||
| The best foam insulation | ||||||
| #1 |
|
Knauf Therm House | ⭐ 99 / 100 | |||
| #2 |
|
PSB S 15-O | ⭐ 98 / 100 | |||
| The best polystyrene foam insulation | ||||||
| #1 |
|
TechnoNicol XPS Technoplex | ⭐ 99 / 100 | |||
| #2 |
|
Penoplex Comfort | ⭐ 98 / 100 | |||
| The best polyester fiber insulation | ||||||
| #1 | Shelter EcoStroy ShES standard | ⭐ 99 / 100 | ||||
| #2 |
|
Shelter EcoStroy SHES Arctic | ⭐ 98 / 100 1 - voice | |||
Video: attic insulation using a set of ROCKWOOL materials
Prices for popular types of heaters
Insulation
How to calculate the required insulation thickness yourself
It is important not only to choose the insulation material correctly - you need to know how thick it should be in order to fully ensure the thermal insulation of the attic room. And at the same time, this is also necessary from the point of view, so as not to overpay for unnecessarily thick insulation, which, in fact, will not give any advantages and will only become an unnecessary waste of material.
The calculation methodology is determined by special documents - SNiP 23 — 02-2003 and SP 23— 101-2004 "Design thermal protection of buildings". Its main principle is that the total value of the thermal resistance of a building structure should not be lower than the calculated indicators established for different climatic regions. These values of thermal resistance (R) are summarized in special tables, but it is easier to use a map diagram.
Please note that on the map the schematic shows for each region separate values for walls, floors and coverings - everyone has all these elements. The roof, walls and floor of the attic are always multi-layer structures, and insulation will act as one of the layers.
The total value of the heat transfer resistance for a structure of n layers is:
R = R1 + R2 +… Rn
The very same resistance to heat transfer is equal to:
Rn = δn/ λ n
where δ n Is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material, λ n - its thickness (in meters).
Since the insulation is considered as one of the layers, you can calculate its thickness using the formula:
δut= (R - 0.16 - δ1/ λ1- δ2/ λ2 – δ n/ λ n) × λout
The scheme of the structure of the pediment wall, roof or attic floor is not a secret for the owner. Measuring the thickness of each of their layers is also not the most difficult task. It remains to find the thermal conductivity coefficients for each of the materials. To do this, you can use the attached table:
| Estimated thermal performance of some building and thermal insulation materials | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Dry density of materials | Design factors for various operating conditions | ||||
| ω | λ | μ | ||||
| A | B | A | B | A, B | ||
| λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity (W / (m ° C)); ω - coefficient of mass ratio of moisture in the material (%); μ - vapor permeability coefficient (mg / (m h Pa) |
||||||
| A. Polymer | ||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 150 | 1 | 5 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.05 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.052 | 0.05 |
| Also | 40 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam | 25 ÷ 45 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Polyfoam PVC1 and PV1 | 125 | 2 | 10 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.23 |
| Also | 100 or less | 2 | 10 | 0.05 | 0.052 | 0.23 |
| Polyurethane foam | 80 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Also | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.041 | 0.05 |
| Also | 40 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.04 | 0.05 |
| Thermal insulation products made of foamed synthetic rubber "Aeroflex" | 80 | 5 | 15 | 0.04 | 0.054 | 0.003 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex", type 35 | 35 | 2 | 3 | 0.029 | 0.03 | 0.018 |
| Also. type 45 | 45 | 2 | 3 | 0.031 | 0.032 | 0.015 |
| B. Mineral wool, fiberglass | ||||||
| Mineral wool stitched mats | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.3 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.061 | 0.067 | 0.49 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Mineral wool mats on a synthetic binder | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.072 | 0.082 | 0.49 |
| Also | 175 | 2 | 5 | 0.066 | 0.076 | 0.49 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.49 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.53 |
| Soft, semi-rigid and hard mineral wool slabs on synthetic and bitumen binders | 250 | 2 | 5 | 0.082 | 0.085 | 0.41 |
| Also | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.079 | 0.084 | 0.41 |
| Also | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.49 |
| Also | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.068 | 0.073 | 0.49 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.069 | 0.49 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.065 | 0.56 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.056 | 0.063 | 0.6 |
| Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity based on organophosphate binder | 200 | 1 | 2 | 0.07 | 0.076 | 0.45 |
| Semi-rigid mineral wool slabs on starch binder | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.38 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.38 |
| Glass staple fiber slabs on a synthetic binder | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.6 |
| Stitched glass fiber mats and strips | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.53 |
| Glass staple fiber mats "URSA" | 25 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.05 | 0.61 |
| Also | 17 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.053 | 0.66 |
| Also | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.048 | 0.053 | 0.68 |
| Also | 11 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.055 | 0.7 |
| Glass staple fiber slabs "URSA" | 85 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.05 | 0.5 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.047 | 0.5 |
| Also | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Also | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Also | 35 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Also | 30 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Also | 20 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.048 | 0.53 |
| Also | 17 . | 2 | 5 | 0.047 | 0.053 | 0.54 |
| Also | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.049 | 0.055 | 0.55 |
| B. Slabs of natural organic and inorganic materials | ||||||
| Fiberboard and chipboard | 1000 | 10 | 12 | 0.23 | 0.29 | 0.12 |
| Also | 800 | 10 | 12 | 0.19 | 0.23 | 0.12 |
| Also | 600 | 10 | 12 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.13 |
| Also | 400 | 10 | 12 | 0.11 | 0.13 | 0.19 |
| Also | 200 | 10 | 12 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.24 |
| Fiberboard slabs and arbolite on Portland cement | 500 | 10 | 15 | 0.15 | 0.19 | 0.11 |
| Also | 450 | 10 | 15 | 0.135 | 0.17 | 0.11 |
| Also | 400 | 10 | 15 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.26 |
| Reed slabs | 300 | 10 | 15 | 0.09 | 0.14 | 0.45 |
| Also | 200 | 10 | 15 | 0.07 | 0.09 | 0.49 |
| Peat thermal insulation slabs | 300 | 15 | 20 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.19 |
| Also | 200 | 15 | 20 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Plaster boards | 1350 | 4 | 6 | 0.5 | 0.56 | 0.098 |
| Also | 1100 | 4 | 6 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.11 |
| Plaster cladding sheets (gypsum plasterboard) | 1050 | 4 | 6 | 0.34 | 0.36 | 0.075 |
| Also | 800 | 4 | 6 | 0.19 | 0.21 | 0.075 |
| G. Backfill | ||||||
| Expanded clay gravel | 600 | 2 | 3 | 0.17 | 0.19 | 0.23 |
| Also | 500 | 2 | 3 | 0.15 | 0.165 | 0.23 |
| Also | 450 | 2 | 3 | 0.14 | 0.155 | 0.235 |
| Also | 400 | 2 | 3 | 0.13 | 0.145 | 0.24 |
| Also | 350 | 2 | 3 | 0.125 | 0.14 | 0.245 |
| Also | 300 | 2 | 3 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.25 |
| Also | 250 | 2 | 3 | 0.11 | 0.12 | 0.26 |
| E. Wood, products from it and other natural organic materials | ||||||
| Pine and spruce across the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.14 | 0.18 | 0.06 |
| Pine and spruce along the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.29 | 0.35 | 0.32 |
| Oak across the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.18 | 0.23 | 0.05 |
| Oak along the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.3 |
| Plywood, glued | 600 | 10 | 13 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.02 |
| Facing cardboard | 1000 | 5 | 10 | 0.21 | 0.23 | 0.06 |
| Construction multilayer cardboard | 650 | 6 | 12 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.083 |
| E. Roofing, waterproofing, facing materials | ||||||
| - Asbestos-cement | ||||||
| Asbestos-cement flat sheets | 1800 | 2 | 3 | 0.47 | 0.52 | 0.03 |
| Also | 1600 | 2 | 3 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.03 |
| - Bituminous | ||||||
| Petroleum bitumens for construction and roofing | 1400 | 0 | 0 | 0.27 | 0.27 | 0.008 |
| Also | 1200 | 0 | 0 | 0.22 | 0.22 | 0.008 |
| Also | 1000 | 0 | 0 | 0.17 | 0.17 | 0.008 |
| Asphalt concrete | 2100 | 0 | 0 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 0.008 |
| Products made of expanded perlite on a bitumen binder | 400 | 1 | 2 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.04 |
| Also | 300 | 1 | 2 | 0.09 | 0.099 | 0.04 |
One more nuance. The table shows two modes of operation, A and B. Which one to choose?
To do this, we look at another schematic map that divides the country's territory according to humidity zones:
Now let's turn to the table, which will tell you which of the modes should be chosen:
One more important remark should be made before starting the calculations. Only those layers are taken into account that provide a snug fit to each other, without ventilated air spaces. So, if the roof or wall is made with a ventilation gap, then all layers above it are no longer taken into account. For the same reason, corrugated roofing material cannot be taken into account.
For example, roof slopes have the following design: a continuous sheathing of their plywood, on top of which a soft bitumen coating is laid. Under it is a layer of insulation (which will be calculated), and from below there is a filing with natural clapboard. This means that the calculation will take into account, in addition to thermal insulation, three more layers - bituminous coating, plywood and natural wood.
In order not to tire our readers with long calculations, we suggest using a special calculator that allows you to calculate the thickness of insulation for walls, slopes and attic floors, in the design of which, in addition to thermal insulation, there are up to three layers.
Poroshenko Petr Alekseevich
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