How to attach a galvanized roof gutter. How to fix the gutter: step-by-step installation instructions. How to fix modern plastic gutters

The final touch in the arrangement of the roof is the installation of a drain, and it is desirable that it does a good job of the task, eliminating excessive moisture in the walls and the surrounding area. This material describes in detail the procedure from the choice of a suitable drain and to a convenient plan for how to fix the gutter and pipe, once again without rearranging the ladder.

To install a drain from scratch, you will need:

Decide on the type of drain (manufacturer, material, color).
Determine the configuration of gutters and risers and their distribution.
Select the required size of the drain.
Count the number of materials and purchase them.
Mount the system.

In any hardware store, there are ready-made gutter kits made of PVC or galvanized steel with a special coating, square or round cross-section and a wide range of colors. These characteristics have to be selected in accordance with the type of roofing material so that the gutter fits harmoniously into the overall picture. For now, it is enough to take with you from the store a brochure listing the elements of the drain you like and its brief description. But then you need to arm yourself with paper and a pencil.

Watercourse elements. 1. Chute. 2. Knee. 3. Trumpet. 4. Tee. 5. Outside corner of the gutter. 6. Gutter connector. 7. Internal corner of the gutter. 8. Funnel. 9. Gutter plug. 10. Bracket for drain pipe. 11. Knee-bend

How to distribute gutters and pipes

To calculate the required materials, it is necessary to determine the number and positions of vertical downpipes (risers) and gutters that fit with an inclination to each riser.

A gutter is installed along the lower edge of each roof slope. With a roof length of up to 10 m, one riser with a funnel at the edge of the gutter is sufficient. For slopes 11-25 m long, funnels are spread along two edges, and the slope of the gutter is formed in two directions from about the middle of the site. It is better to indicate the border at the point from which at least one funnel can be laid an integer number of gutters, given their length - three meters.

At a hipped roof or roll roof, it is possible to bring gutters from two adjacent sides of the roof into one funnel, however, the total length of the gutters, converging at one point over 20 m, should not be exceeded.

To bypass roofs of complex shapes, for example, near a building with an extension, when the roof planes converge with an internal corner, it is advisable to place a riser in the corner without using corner elements. If the corner is involved, then the length of the gutter “around the corner”, when viewed from the funnel, should not be more than 10 m.

Based on the voiced rules, on the plan of the house "top view" points of gutters and funnels, as well as gutters, are distributed, marking areas with the same slope. If possible, you should distribute the elements so that you have to cut the gutters less and use whole elements of three meters.

It is important to take into account the design of the funnel in the gutter kit used. This can be an overhead element that is attached to a regular gutter with a hole cut in the bottom, or a special tee to which the gutters are connected using connectors and a riser pipe.

The minimum allowable slope is established by a set of rules and is equal to 1 mm for each meter of running gutter. Manufacturers, however, recommend a slope of 3-5 mm per meter for PVC gutter systems and 2-4 mm per meter for metal structures.

The outer edge of the gutter is 2-3 cm below the roof plane. The edge of the roofing material that forms the roof canopy must be above the center of the gutter. So there will be less risk that the fall of the snow mass and icing in the winter will break the gutter.

The vertical pipe is lowered so that the lower edge of the bend directed towards the drainage funnel or the outer edge of the blind area is at a height of 20-30 cm.

Calculation of materials

The cross-sectional area of the gutter is set in accordance with SP17.13330.2011 equal to 1.5 cm 2 per 1 m 2 of the roof area. Having distributed the gutters, it is enough to take the length of the largest section, multiply by the width of the roof slope and calculate the cross-sectional area of the gutter. Choose from round or square kits. The area will have to be clarified in the technical documentation, since in the store they are sorted mainly only by width (90-150 mm) and height.

To find out the cross-section of riser pipes, you need to calculate the average annual amount of precipitation falling on the roof of the building according to the instructions of SP 32.13330.2012, and then select the appropriate pipe diameter in accordance with the requirements of SP 30.13330 in terms of throughput from the table for ventilated risers.

You can use the tables provided by the manufacturers of drainage systems, where the effective roof area is calculated first, and then the appropriate size of the system is selected, depending on the value of the average annual rainfall in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe location of the building.

Effective roof area: S = (A + B / 2) C, where A is the width of the horizontal projection of the roof slope, B is the height, and C is the length of the roof.

When the standard size of the gutter has already been determined, you can proceed to the selection of the kit elements.

On a riser along a straight wall you will need:

funnel gutter;
two elbows for approaching the wall;
one knee for the lower elbow;
two fasteners for each pipe and one for the funnel of the gutter.

The upper bends are connected by a connecting pipe with seals, and the main part of the drain is formed by straight pipe sections. To bypass the protrusions on the wall, you will need an additional four elbows and two connecting pipes.

At the junction of the pipe and the gutter, you need a tee or a segment 300-400 mm long with a hole in the bottom for an overhead funnel.

The gutters are connected to the tee. The number of troughs has already been determined at the distribution stage. The lengths should be arranged so that the number of complete gutters is obtained with a minimum of waste.

The ends of the gutter are closed with plugs. For hip or roll roofs, all gutters can be combined with corner pieces instead of plugs. The number of selected elements is selected accordingly.

The number of joints with a seal is calculated by the number of joints between the gutters and with the tee / funnel.

Each individual gutter element is fastened with brackets at the ends, 150 mm away from the edge, and fastenings are distributed along the rest of the length at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other, which corresponds to the standard pitch of the pitched roof rafters.

Six brackets with a basic pitch of 500 mm are required to fix a standard three-meter gutter. For each tee, two fasteners are required separately on both sides.

Installation of gutters

The best option is to fix it with brackets on the cornice board, but if it is not there or the board is not designed for an additional load, then the brackets should be fixed to the lathing and rafters before laying the roofing material or to the walls. All types of fasteners can be alternated if necessary. The set of available fasteners should be specified in advance in the selected drainage system.

Procedure:

On the side where the gutter will be laid at the highest point, on the opposite edge from the funnel, fix the bracket so that the central axis along the gutter after installation is strictly under the roof edge, and the outer edge is lowered below the roof plane by 20-30 mm, the distance to the end of the roof should be no more than 150 mm. Tie a long piece of string or twine to the mount you have installed.
Use two vertical lines to mark the position of the tee.
The second bracket should be secured 150 mm away from the tee mark. Lower it in relation to the first bracket to maintain the desired slope. Tie a string from the first fastener, marking the required level to distribute the rest of the fasteners.
Secure the tee and funnel hardware.
Distribute and fix the intermediate brackets according to the position of the gutter joints.
Start the installation of the elements from the tee and funnel and then all the elements of the gutter.

The gutters must be laid with a gap of 10-15 mm to compensate for thermal expansion and are fixed with connectors. When all the elements of the gutter are fixed, you can proceed to the installation of vertical risers.

The edge of the gutter is closed with a sealed plug

Fastening pipes

There are two main types of fasteners: brick and wood wall. In the first case, a single-point anchorage is meant, in the second, a V-shaped base plate with two anchorage points spread apart. In both cases, the pipe is secured with a hose clamp.

For anchoring, it is necessary to pre-mark on the wall the places for drilling holes for fastenings:

a knee that fits to the wall from the side of the funnel of the gutter;
two fasteners for each pipe segment, retreating from the ends by about 150-200 mm;
the lower knee that completes the drain.

In the case of a V-shaped mount, first a clamp with a bracket is put on each pipe and elbow, a vertical drainage system is assembled on the wall, drilling holes in the wall and fixing the mounts with self-tapping screws.

To compensate for thermal expansion, the socket connection is not made all the way to the stop, leaving a gap of 10-15 mm. In order not to miss this moment, it is advisable to check the depth of the socket in advance and set the appropriate marks along the pipes.

There is no need to use O-rings or sealant to connect pipes on a straight section of the path - only when connecting tees.

More details about the installation process of ready-made drainage systems in the video:

Obstacle avoidance

To avoid obstacles along the riser, bends with a turn of 30 ° and connectors between them are used.

If this is a ledge in the wall, then four elbows and two connecting pipes are required. It is more convenient to first assemble two elbows and a connector, fixed along the ledge, and then connect to the upper part of the drainage system and continue the installation of the lower section.

If a “step” is formed on the wall, only two knees are required. It is easier to fix the pipes in vertical sections and then mount the elbow.

It is better to take the distance from the knee to the angle of the protrusion equal to approximately 1/3 of the pipe diameter or equal to the extension of the brackets used.

To avoid obstacles along the route of installation of the chute, corner elements for the inner and outer turns are used. Elements, like the gutter itself, should be fastened taking into account the general slope, bypassing the edge of the roof along the contour, and not in a straight line between the extreme positions.

After installation, you should check the operation of the drain by supplying water under pressure to the extreme upper points of the gutters. It should flow evenly along the entire length of the channel towards the funnel and down the pipes.

The system for collecting rainwater from the roof slopes and draining it into the storm sewer, or at least further from the foundation of the house, is mandatory for arrangement, therefore it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating the lathing for further roofing. However, there are roof structures that involve fixing the drainage systems after roofing work. In addition, other situations occur, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.

How to install gutters if the roof is already covered

So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the decision is facilitated by the fact that the manufacturers of drainage systems, having foreseen various cases in which it is necessary to mount a common structure, make them in different versions. They will be discussed below.

Varieties of modern drainage systems by material of manufacture

Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only available material for the manufacture of drainage systems was galvanized steel, from which they, by the way, are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced by metal structures with a polymer coating, or completely made of plastics. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and a long service life, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, the "new generation" gutters quickly became very popular among buyers.

Since consumers often have a question about which option is better - ordinary galvanized, metal, polymer-coated or completely plastic, there are a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should be noted right away that each from materials from which gutters are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.

Plastic gutter system can be called the most optimal option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes, resistant to winter frosts and summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosive processes, is inert to ultraviolet and other external negative influences.

Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide fastening surface, so they fit snugly against the wind board and are securely held on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration like metal brackets. Therefore, all structural details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.

The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the prices for structures made of other materials - this can be called the most significant of their disadvantages.

with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. Systems withstand external natural influences well, they look very elegant outwardly, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.

However, steel parts with a polymer protective coating are not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching. Well, damage to the polymer coating leads to the occurrence of corrosion processes, which means that the duration of the structure's functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even during installation work. Need extra care when assembling and handling fasteners.

Galvanized steel sheet gutters are among the most inexpensive options. Their appearance is not aesthetic enough. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches, corrosion can also quickly do with how bad deed.

The advantage of metal systems is that some of their parts can be much more easily adjusted to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.

You can also casually recall the less popular materials from which gutters for buildings with a certain design solution are made - it can be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. The reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly “biting”. If such systems are chosen, then brackets can also be selected for them, which can be fixed to the eaves of the already roofed roof.

In principle, support brackets of different designs can be selected for drainage systems made of any material, since they are sold not only complete with the main parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders fit the shape and size of the gutter.

Find out how to do it by studying the instructions in a special article on our portal.

When do you have to install the gutters after the roof has been covered?

Now it is necessary to somewhat clarify the moments when circumstances can force the installation of the drainage system after the roofing material has been laid on the roof slopes. So, there are several reasons for this installation:

This process itself, exactly in this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if the ventilation of the roofing system will be carried out through the perforated parts of the soffits installed under the eaves of the roof. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more effective, therefore they plan to fix the drainage gutter on the frontal (wind) board.
Forced fixing of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished form, and the former owner did not foresee their installation in advance.
Very widespread the reason when the old drainage system is completely outdated and worn out - the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and did not perform their function properly.

Gutter prices

gutters

If in the rafter system it was used for, which, according to the technology, should go to the eaves overhang. Therefore, in this version, it is no longer possible to fix the brackets for laying the gutters to the crate and they must be fixed to the wind board.

How gutter systems are installed along eaves

Types of brackets for attaching gutters

Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. The choice of the right model will depend on the place and method of fixing the drainage system.

Brackets can be long, short and versatile:

Long hooks are most commonly used for securing under roofing to decking. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before the installation of a discharged or solid sheathing.
The short brackets can be used to install the gutter system on the frontal board or on the wall of the building. This type of hooks is installed both before laying the roof covering on the rafter system, and after the roof has been equipped. In addition to the frontal board or wall, sometimes this type of brackets is fixed to the end surface of the rafter legs or filly. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be much lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the fibers.
The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible structure that can be used for the installation of drainage systems both before the roofing material is laid down, and after this process. The adjustable length allows them to be used both long and short.

Methods for securing gutters

First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems, with a wall-mounted roof covering. This will make it possible to determine which of them is applicable in each specific case.

So, there are four ways to fix the brackets to the elements of the rafter system:

On the rafter legs, both on the front and on the top or side of them.
On the wind (frontal) board.
Under the roof, on the bottom board of the sheathing or on plywood (smallpox) of the solid sheathing.
To the edge of the roof covering.

The first way is to rafters or crate

If the brackets are fixed before the installation of the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the sheathing. In this case, support long-legged hooks that if necessary, the correct location of the gutter can be bent or they can be left straight. In addition to them, for the installation of drainage systems in this case, sometimes universal brackets are also used.

Fastening hooks to boards (sheets) of lathing

If the roofing has already been installed, for example, if the old drainage system needs to be replaced and it is planned to fix the brackets in this way, then the lower row of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.

To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of the coating. Rigid roofing material must be removed carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in operation for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary costs. And not every material lends itself to dismantling without breaking the integrity or without deformation, especially if it is fixed with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.

In a situation where the roof is equipped, laid on a plywood base, you can try to gently lift only the lower edge of the roofing material that runs along the eaves. Then, put the brackets on a solid crate and secure with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafter legs through the plywood covering. The next step is to return the bituminous tile or roofing material to its original position and fix it to the surface using bitumen mastic.

Video: Installation of a drainage system with edge dismantling of tile roofing

In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try using another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists in securing the hooks to their lateral beams. For this, brackets are purchased or manufactured with a bent, unfolded mounting platform - an example is shown in the figure above.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

It should be remembered that such installation is possible only if the rafter legs have a sufficiently large cross-sectional size, for example, 120 × 50 or 150 × 50 mm. In addition, it must be taken into account that the hooks must be fixed so that the roof covering hangs over the gutter, overlapping ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise water overflow may occur in case of heavy rain.

Therefore, if the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafter is chosen, then first you need to make a fitting, which will show whether this installation method is possible.

The second method is to attach the brackets to the frontal board

The easiest way is to install the brackets on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various fasteners.

The frontal board is fixed on the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs it can be wide or narrow. The choice of the type of bracket will depend on this parameter.

Suitable for installing the drainage system on the frontal board:

Long brackets, in the event that the frontal board has big enough width. These holders are made of metal and have a leg the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the frontal board.

The short brackets are designed for attaching them to the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as to the end side of the rafters. As already mentioned, the latter option is undesirable, the reliability of fixation will be questionable due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood grains.

Plastic short hooks most often have a wide base in the area of the mounting pad, so they will hold the gutter firmly.

In addition to conventional brackets, you can find their adjustable options on sale. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have a special device that allows you to set the slope of the position of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function cannot be dispensed with, for example, when arranging a drainage system on an obliquely fixed wind board or on the crown of a log cabin.

Bracket prices

bracket

Another option for attaching gutters to the frontal board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special holding brackets. First, a guide is fixed on the wind board, which is immediately given the necessary slope. Then, brackets are put on from the side of the profile and moved along the guide, with an arrangement at the required distance. It is not necessary to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this fastening system. In addition, when mounting it, you do not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you only need to set the profile with the desired slope in level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.

However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang is of a suitable width.

When installing individual brackets, first a horizontal line is bounced on the wind board with a slope of three to five millimeters for each running meter of the gutter towards the drain funnel. Then, from the end edge of the frontal board, you need to retreat from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the place where the first bracket is installed.

Further, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (some manufacturers' systems allow a larger step - this is stipulated in the installation instructions). In the area where the drain funnel is installed, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.

After carrying out such a markup, you can proceed to fixing the brackets on the frontal board.

The third method is to attach the brackets directly to the edge of the roof covering.

This method is applicable for installing a gutter system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material... The fastening of the hooks-holders is carried out using special clamps (clamps), which fix the brackets along the edge of the roof.

There are different types of clamps, to secure some of them it will be necessary to carefully drill through holes in the roofing material, at least 50 mm away from its edge. Others have a construction that does not require drilling in the roof as they are clamped along the edge of the roof. This option is fixed with a screw, which, by analogy with a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.

If the brackets will be fixed to the wave coverage, then this must be done exactly at the lower or upper point of the wave. It is recommended to put rubber gaskets under the metal fastening lugs of the clamp, both on the upper and lower sides of the roofing material, so the load on it will be slightly lower, and the compression will be softer.

For this method of installing a drain, both metal and plastic brackets are suitable. Ordinary metal long hooks can be altered by yourself, bending them in the right way, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic must be purchased ready-made.

Since in this option all the load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a set with a small mass.

The fourth way - with an additional long bracket

In this version, an additional metal L-bracket is used to attach the short gutter holders. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.

This method of fastening sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with a previously laid roof covering without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120 ÷ 150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafter legs, and there is no desire to fix the brackets to the edge of the roof, or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.

There are other ways to install a gutter system with a previously covered roof:

So, if it is necessary to equip a drainage system on an already covered slope, the brackets can be fixed directly on the wall surface, carefully measuring and marking.
Hooks are sometimes attached to a securely positioned soffit if it is of a suitable width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed on metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the soffit surface, by analogy with the picture shown above.
If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen, they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then a hole of the corresponding diameter is first drilled in it, into which the pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled with concrete, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, it is necessary to wait until the solution has completely solidified.

If you plan to lay the gutter on pins hammered into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the funnel of the downspout is ensured.

The pull-up pendant mount is not as popular as the options described above, but sometimes this design is indispensable. This bracket has special bends, one of which picks up the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, there is a bushing with an internal thread on the holder, through it, as well as the upper part of the gutter wall, a fastening element is screwed into the wall or frontal plate.

This type of fastening can be used to fix the gutter both on the frontal board and on the ends of the rafter legs.

If such fastenings are chosen, then the chute must be closed from above with a protective mesh, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the lintels, collecting dust and dirt flowing down with water with roofs, and over time, a cork forms in the gutter. In order to prevent overflow of water due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.

By the way, you can notice that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.

Parameters of gutters and the angle of inclination of their installation

Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of fixing the gutter system, before going to the store for it, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge in heavy rain.

In addition, you need to decide on the cross-section of pipes into which storm drains will flow from the gutter, since if you purchase a pipe of not large enough diameter, it may not cope with the flows, and the water will go over the edge of the gutters - to the walls and under the foundation.

To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. On this score, there are certain standards. So, if the length of the eaves of the ramp is up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a vertical drain pipe. With longer eaves, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to install two pipes - at the corners of the building.

So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the cornice to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated in the above diagram with the letter Y, as well as the length of the cornice line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the catchment area of one roof slope.

As you can see in the drawing, the gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, in the lower part of which the downpipe is mounted.

If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and from it two gutters sloping towards the corners of the structure, where the gutters are installed.

Slope of the gutter gutters should be 3 ÷ 5 mm for each running meter of the gutter length.

Now it is worthwhile to figure out what dimensions of the gutter and drainage pipe must be selected, taking into account the calculated catchment area.

S (area) of the catchment area, m2	Chute section, mm.	The cross-section of the downspout with a slope of the gutter in one direction, that is, with the installation of one funnel, mm.	The cross-section of the downspout with a slope of the gutter in two directions, that is, with the installation of two funnels, mm.
60 ÷ 100	115	87	-
80 ÷ 130	125	110	-
120 ÷ 200	150	-	87
160 ÷ 220	150	-	110

If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and shows other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.

Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system
Gutter -75 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -100 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 110 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -150 mm, gutter pipe 110 mm
The size of the catchment area, m2
95	148	240	205	165	370
48	74	120	100	82	180
42	50	95	80	65	145

Gutter prices

gutter

Other elements of the drainage system

Now, having figured out the principles and methods of installing the drainage system, and how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.

So, in addition to downpipes, gutters and brackets-holders for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays its own important role in the design:

Plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket, used to seal the joints of individual gutters. Typically these parts will be needed in two-pipe gutter systems, or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
The plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on both sides of the gutter.
Drain or outlet funnel, connected to the drain gutter on one or both sides, depending on the chosen installation scheme. The lower part of the funnel is hermetically connected to the vertical drainpipe.
Elbow - This part is designed to create bends on the downpipe. If the wall is flat, then an elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and in the lower part to drain water away from the basement of the house. If the gutter and downpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has big enough width, thanks to which it is far from the wall, and the lower part of the pipe vertically enters into, then the elbows may not be used at all.
Brackets for fixing the downpipe to the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps, in which the pipe is fixed.
Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the gutter and downpipe holders will be attached.

Brackets for gutters are installed at a distance of 500 ÷ 800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the cornice and choose the optimal installation pitch.
Brackets-clamps for holding downpipes are fixed on or into the wall with a pitch of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm.
The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. Two or one of them can be installed on each slope.
Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they must be purchased with a margin, given that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always use the surplus.

For each of the joints of the individual parts of the gutter, special rubber connectors and a roofing sealant must be provided. It is also used to seal end caps.

Installation of the drainage system

Tools required for the job

A few words must be said about the tools that will be required to carry out the installation of the drain. It is necessary to correctly understand that the set of tools may differ depending on what material the gutter structure is made of - metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:

Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will not turn out very neat and it will have to be cleaned.
Shears for cutting sheet metal.
Hammer and (or) - for fastening structural parts
A hammer drill for drilling holes in a brick or concrete wall for installing brackets-clamps for a downpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
Pliers will be needed for metal structures.
A rubber mallet (mallet) is required when installing the plugs.
Building level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, long cord - for marking operations.
Reliable stepladder or scaffolding - for convenience and safety.

Metal hacksaw prices

hacksaw for metal

In the same section, you should immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut the elements of drainage systems using a hacksaw or metal scissors, and in no case with a "grinder" (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.

When cutting with a grinder, the metal or plastic heats up a lot. This leads to the burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cutting area of the metal and melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, a polymer protective layer applied to a metal pipe or gutter can begin to peel off even up to 50 mm around the cut, making the metal virtually unprotected against moisture.

That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the craftsmen and cut the details. drains only with tools that indicated above.

We believe that everything you need to install the drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to the consideration of installation work.

The sequence of installation work - step by step

So, if the roofing cake is already installed, the most widespread An option for fixing the gutter is to fix the short holders on the wind board. And It should be noted that many roofers find short hooks more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:

The short holders do not need to be bent as they are ready for installation.
If it is necessary to repair the gutter, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since you do not have to resort to dismantling part of the roof covering. Therefore, the work can be done independently without calling the masters.
The cost of the short brackets is slightly lower than the price of the long brackets.

Any installation work, including the installation of the drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the gutter brackets must be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended that you first draw up a drainage arrangement scheme. In this case, a system with one funnel and a drainpipe will be considered.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The layout begins with determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50 ÷ 100 mm from the edge of the wind board. Further, a nail is driven into this point, so that a cord can be tied to it. After that, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the upper edge of the frontal board to the hammered nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the windboard, where the downspout is planned to be installed. With the help of a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire frontal board. To make things easier, you can use a tinted paint cord. Tied to the nail, the cord is stretched along the length of the windboard to the mark made on the opposite side of it.
	Further, focusing on the drawn horizontal, you need to beat off the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific slope value, which should be 4 ÷ 5 mm per linear meter of the cornice, you need to determine its exact slope length. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board, the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28 ÷ 35 mm. At the end point of the line from the horizontal, the found value is measured, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and the inclined line is beaten off. The markup can be done in a slightly different way. Having found the desired point, the bracket is immediately fixed in it, and a cord is already tied to it. The rest of the actions are carried out in the same way as in the first version of the markup. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The installation step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer).
	The next step is to fix two brackets along the two extreme points of the marking, between which a cord is pulled, which will help to fix the intermediate holders exactly along the marked line. So, the crosshairs of the projection from the horizontal to the inclined line, as well as the stretched cord, will indicate the exact attachment point of the hooks.
	Next, the intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them, you need to prepare two or three self-tapping screws. There may be more of them - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer for fixing the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed on so that they come into contact with the cord in the same way as the outer brackets.
	After the holders have been screwed to the wind board, the cord must be removed and the hooks must be checked again that the hooks are installed correctly. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width so that water will flow directly into the gutter without overlapping its edge.
	Next, you need to check the distance between the roof covering and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a rail on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30 ÷ 40 mm. This parameter is important due to the fact that if the edge of the bracket is lowered lower, the water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding from the cover, forms a cork in the groove of the gutter. In this case, the metal version of the bracket is convenient, since, if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised.
	The next step, according to the previously drawn up scheme, is to mark the hole on the gutter for installing the funnel and downpipe. The size of the hole must match the diameter of the waste pipe. Then, along the marked lines, using a hacksaw for metal, two cuts are made at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration.
	Further, the holes need to be adjusted - rolled to the pipe diameter. This operation is performed using pliers.
	The edges of the hole are slightly bent outward - this will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative metal coating as little as possible.
	The next operation - a funnel is attached to the hole in the gutter and hooks onto it with a folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has "ears" that must be bent inward of the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter in the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and be bent away from it. Thus, you get the most reliable fastening of two parts - the gutter and the funnel. Here it is necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed on the gutter. Such a modification of this element makes installation easier, but the cost of systems with latches is also higher.
	The next step is the cutting of seals for the side gutter plug with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers, in any case, it must be flexible enough, bend easily and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. The seals can be supplied with the gutter system, or they can be purchased separately in the same stores where the gutters are sold.
	Further, the sealant must be laid in the grooves along the edge of the plug, which will adjoin the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and the metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in the case under consideration, the second side of this gutter will be joined with another segment that goes beyond the corner.
	Then the plug is installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with the seal installed in it can be quite difficult to put on the metal edge. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue, for which you need to gently tap the plug from the outside, along the lower contour. Then it will fit snugly into the seat.
	Instead of a rubber seal, a roofing sealant can be used, which is applied before installing the plug on the edge of the gutter. Then, another layer must be applied after they are combined from the inside of the gutter, at the junction of these two elements.
	It must be said that some masters, for greater reliability, use both components for sealing, that is, first install the sealant, and then additionally from the inside of the gutter, apply a layer of roofing sealant. Until the sealant has lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in soapy water. From the outside, such a seal will not be visible and will not spoil the appearance of the drain.
	The next step is to install the gutters into the brackets fixed to the wind board. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, it is necessary to calculate in advance how many such elements are required for the entire cornice. In order not to cut the gutter with the funnel and plug installed, it should be installed first. After installing the gutter in the brackets, you need to gently press on it so that the outer fold of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. There are different options for gutters in shape, but they are installed in brackets and snap into place in almost the same way.
	At the junction of two gutter segments when they are installed in the brackets, a retainer is installed under the joint, which has a rubber gasket and a special lock that snaps into place on the outer edge of the gutter. Each subsequent chute, when installed from the side of the funnel, is wound inside the previously installed one - this will ensure a free drain of water.
	The latch is wound behind the back wall of the joint and put on over its edge. From the outer edge of the gutter, it is snapped into place with a special clamp. To increase reliability, the gutter joint is covered from the inside with the same roofing sealant. Apply the sealant in a thin layer and then smooth it with your finger, as it should not obstruct the flow of water.
	This illustration shows two ways of joining two pieces of gutters or a corner element of the system, if provided by the project. The first one, described above, is the latch. And the second is the rivets that secure the retainer to the back and front walls of the gutters. However, in order to install them, you will have to prepare a special tool. If the riveter is on the list of household tools, he will greatly speed up and simplify any installation work related to thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the others and it is much easier to install it, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above.
	You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter using a metal strip, which is attached with a self-tapping screw with a wide head or rivet to the front edge of the gutter, from its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed to the roof covering or to the wind board. In the second case, the strip will have to bend slightly. Metal strips can be cut from the remnants of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow load and spring ice. In addition to such braces, hooks are additionally screwed onto the wind board between the brackets to hold the gutters, which only engage on the rear edge. These elements will remove some of the load not only from the holding brackets, but also from the guy wires.
	Now you can proceed to the installation of the vertical part of the gutter. The first step in the funnel installed on the gutter is to mount an elbow, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60 ÷ 70 mm from the wall, since the standard clamp holder is designed approximately for this parameter.
	The elbow is put on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second elbow is measured, which determines the vertical direction of the downpipe. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe that will connect the two bends. To the resulting value, add 35 ÷ 40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements.
	Further, the segment is put on top of the knee installed on the funnel, and the second knee of the structure is put on the second side of it. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid leaks of the system at the joints of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above must go inside the lower one.
	The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be fixed at its lower end, which will set the direction for the water flows passing through the drain. However, it is necessary to provide for the fact that 80 mm of the resulting size will go to join the flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point that needs to be taken into account is that the standard pipe length, like the gutter, is 3000 mm, and the wall often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections.
	Now you need to mark and mount in the wall or fix the brackets for the vertical pipe on it. They are installed with a pitch of 1200 ÷ 1800 mm, however, if the vertical pipe consists of several sections, then their joints must also be reinforced with clamps.
	However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but below it by 100 mm. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after the clamps are attached to it, so that after connecting the individual sections, immediately fix the drain in the brackets.
	Starting the assembly of the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the top pipe section is inserted into the next section. To make one section of the pipe easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly due to bends that can be made with pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can be done only if the drainage system is made of metal. The plastic will crack immediately if you try to bend it in this way.
	At the end of the pipe installation, a lower elbow is put on and fixed with a bracket on its lower edge. This element is usually located at a height of 150 ÷ 300 mm from the blind area. If it is planned to install or already installed a drainage system or storm sewer under the drain pipe, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And quite often the pipe is completely included in the storm water inlet.

So, the methods of installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowledge of the nuances of the calculation and information about what fasteners are used for such structures, you can choose the best option. Such that to the maximum extent will approach the specifics of the roof structure, suit the master in terms of the complexity of execution and financial capabilities.

There is no need to explain the purpose of the roof over the house. One of the functions is to protect the attic or attic from precipitation, i.e. from water leakage. But, flowing down the slopes of the roof, water inevitably falls on the walls and foundation. As a result, the load-bearing elements of the building structure are destroyed very quickly.

The destructive effect of water can be avoided by installing a roof drainage system. Before we start a master class on installing gutters, a little theory.

Types of drainage systems

The gutter system has two signs of classification, which determine the technology of its installation:

1. By the method of manufacture - homemade, industrial.

Handicraft production, i.e. homemade roof drain. In favor of this system are facts such as the ability to make a beautiful and unusual gutter with your own hands. Making a homemade system does not involve significant costs. In addition, it can be mounted in a user-friendly way. An unconditional drawback in the need for constant maintenance, since gutters are usually made of galvanized steel, which quickly decays. Among the conditional shortcomings - the complexity of the docking of individual elements and a mediocre appearance.

Factory production (factory). This method assumes adherence to all standards and parameters. That is, if necessary, you can easily dock different elements from different supplies of the same manufacturer.

2. According to the material used - plastic, metal.

According to the method of installation, an adhesive system is distinguished (installation is carried out using glue) and an adhesive system (installation on rubber bands).

The advantages of plastic gutters:

immunity to ultraviolet light. A high-quality plastic drainage system will not burn out during the entire period of operation;

not subject to corrosion;

the glue system does not require maintenance, since the "cold welding" method is used, during which the elements are joined at the molecular level;

strength;

light weight;

operating temperature range -40 ° С + 70 ° С;

ease of installation;

the presence of different colors;

a wide variety of component elements allows you to create a drainage system of the desired configuration, which makes it indispensable for installation on broken roofs.

Disadvantages of PVC gutters:

plastic can collapse from mechanical stress. Therefore, such systems cannot be installed in high-rise buildings. The plastic drainage system is mounted only on a low-rise private house;

repair unsuitability. A destroyed element cannot be restored;

a plastic drainage system with sealing rubber bands requires periodic replacement of the seals, which entails the disassembly / assembly of the elements;

high coefficient of linear expansion.

The gutter system made of a metal profile has several varieties: galvanized, copper, galvanized with a polymer coating (painted). The main difference between them: cost and duration of operation. The appearance is shown in the photo.

Advantages of metal gutters:

strength;

reliability;

withstand significant snow loads and other environmental influences;

do not support combustion;

operating temperature range -60 ° С + 130 ° С;

dimensional stability.

Disadvantages of metal gutters:

high price;

significant weight of the entire system;

complexity of installation;

small selection of colors;

the appearance of rust when the protective layer is damaged (with the exception of a copper drainage system);

the small number of elements makes it suitable only for installation on roofs with angles of 90 °.

Which drainage system is better, plastic or metal, it is difficult to answer unequivocally, it all depends on the specific operating conditions and other factors. In any case, the choice of a drainage system should be based on quality indicators, not price.

From the standpoint of this classification, we will consider how to properly mount the drainage system with our own hands.

Installation of the drainage system - instructions

Like any construction process, the gutter installation technology includes the selection of a system, material and calculations.

There are several options for drainage systems, depending on their capacity. For example, 100/75, 125/90, 150/110. This marking shows the ratio of the pipe diameter to the gutter. Clearly the system of circular section 125/100 and square section - in the photo.

Advice. Each manufacturer has its own sizes of gutters, pipes. Their configuration is also different. Therefore, do not even try to dock systems from different manufacturers.

Such a variety of systems is needed so that each user can choose the one that suits his needs.

The choice of the drainage system

To choose the right water drainage system you need:

familiarize yourself with the maximum rainfall in your area;

calculate the area of the slope (S). Not all, but the largest in size. It is its size that will be decisive for choosing a gutter.

S = (A + B / 2) x C

Nuance. For flat roofs (the slope angle does not exceed 10 °), the formula takes the form
S = A x C

Based on these measurements, select the desired system in the table.

After the system is selected, you need to determine the type and calculate the amount of materials. To do this, we will prepare drawings or diagrams of planes with dimensions. They will simplify the calculation and then the installation of the drainage system.

Calculation of the drainage system

Let us illustrate, using the example of a house, how to calculate the amount of materials for a drainage system.

Drainage gutter - semicircular (semicircular section) and rectangular (rectangular section).

Designed to collect precipitation (rain and melt water) from the roof.

The length of the gutter is 3-4 m. It is fixed using hooks and brackets, which are installed in 60-90 cm increments, ensuring the slope of the gutter is at least 1 cm for every 3-4 meters.

Their number in linear meters is equal to the perimeter of the roof base. That is, the length of all surfaces on which the gutter will be mounted. Dimensions of the gutter - sold by the piece at 3 and 4 lm.

For a house of the size from our example, you will need 3-meter gutters - 10 pcs. 4 meters - 1 pc.

Nuance. Round all dimensions to the full length of the gutter. The fewer connections, the easier, more reliable and cheaper the final installation will be.

The corners of the gutter (external (external) and internal, 90 and 135 degrees).

The corner gutter is designed to change the direction (distribution) of water flows. Installation method: mounted on the outer and inner corners of the roof.

We'll need 4 outside corners and 2 inside corners, all 90 degrees.

If the house or cottage has sharp or obtuse corners, you need to choose the system in which such corners exist.

Advice. A variety of corners can be made from a plastic gutter by cutting out part of the gutter and connecting the halves at the desired angle. Parts are connected using glue - cold welding.

Drains, connectors, gutter plugs.

For our example - 4 funnels, 2 plugs. There can be 5 or 17 connectors. Depending on the installation features of a particular system. In most gutter systems, the corners are fixed directly to the gutter. But in some - with the use of a connector.

In drainage systems, where the installation is carried out with the use of glue, it is necessary to use ordinary connectors and compensation.

Compensation is installed with a roof length of more than 8 lm. Its installation is carried out without the use of glue. This connector is designed to compensate for the linear expansion of the chute during heating / cooling. For our example, we would need 4 regular connectors and one compensation connector.

Advice. One funnel receives water from 10 lm. gutters. If the wall is longer, you need to put two funnels. In our example, we did just that. In this case, the distance between two adjacent funnels cannot exceed 20 lm.

Gutter hooks.

The hooks can be long or short. The first ones are designed to hang the gutter on the rafters and are attached before installing the roofing material. The second (short) ones are used for attaching the gutter to the frontal board, respectively, it is possible to install it on a finished roof, i.e. covered with roofing material.

The gutter fastening hook is installed with an interval of 60 cm. In this case, it is mandatory to install it near corners, funnels, plugs and at the joints. In our example, there are 68 hooks.

Downpipes (for vertical drains), pipe fittings / brackets.

The pipe can be round or rectangular. Designed for vertical water flow.

The pipe bracket is designed for fixing the pipe to the wall. According to the method of installation, they are distinguished “on a stone” (for fixing on a brick, stone or concrete wall. Fixation by means of hardware) and “on a tree” (for fixing on wooden walls (timber, log, OSB). Fixation by means of self-tapping screws).

The number of pipes is determined by the number of funnels. In our example, there are 4 funnels, which means there are also 4 pipe installation locations. their length is equal to the total length of all walls along which the installation is planned. Pipes are also sold in lengths of 3 and 4 meters. You need to round up, since the joints on the pipe are also undesirable. Those. if your house is 3.5 m high, you need to buy a 4 m pipe. 0.5 will go to waste or other needs.

Pipe fasteners are installed every meter. At the same time, their installation is required near the knees.

Pipe elbow, drain (drain elbow).

If the structure of the house is similar to that shown in the photo, then for each riser (we have 4 of them) you need two universal elbows (8 in total) and one drain (4 in total).

Distance L is measured as shown in the figure.

Material prepared for the site www.site

Nuance. makes some adjustments to the calculation of the drainage system. The height of the attic wall affects the number and installation of gutters. The diagrams below show what needs to be considered when calculating.

Installation of a drainage system made of plastic (PVC)

1. Installation of drain funnels (roofing, storm, water intake) on the roof.

The gutter hooks closest to the funnel are installed at a distance of 2 cm from it. They serve as holders.

Advice. The angle of inclination in relation to the funnel is 2 ° or 3-4 mm. 1 m. It is convenient to check the slope using a nylon thread.

With a wall length of 10 to 20 meters, it is more expedient to install the gutter in the following ways:

Simple slope (straight) - the funnel is installed at the end of the slope.
Double slope: "from the middle" or "towards the middle".

In the first case, the middle gutter is at its highest point, and the water moves to the funnels located at the corners of the building. In the second case, at the highest point there are two extreme troughs and the water moves to a funnel located in the middle between them. If the length of the gutter exceeds 22 meters, three funnels or a more powerful system are installed.

3. Installation of a connector for a conventional and compensation gutter (if necessary).

Gutter connectors are installed between the brackets. Equal distance from them.

4. Cut the chute into pieces of the required length. It is advisable to clean the cutting place.

5. Connection of gutters with a funnel. The gutter is laid on brackets adjacent to the funnel, taking into account the linear expansion of the plastic.

The hole for the funnel can be drilled in the desired place of the gutter using - a crown.

Some manufacturers mark the roof outlets in such a way as to facilitate installation. That is, a temperature scale is indicated on the side of the funnel. After checking the temperature overboard, the chute is set at the desired level.

In adhesive systems, the funnel is one of the elements that do not use glue during installation.

If provided, a sealing rubber is installed at the junction of the gutter and funnel.

When laying the gutter, the connector must be smeared with glue or sealed with an elastic band.

The expansion joint is mounted without the use of glue.

Nuance. It is better to make a "teardrop" for the water to drain in a given direction at the end of the drain pipe.

7. Installation of corners and gutter plugs is carried out in the same way.

Both the corner and the plug are mounted using glue or rubber bands.

8. Fastening of clamps and installation of drainpipes.

At the calculated distance, holes are drilled for fastening the clamp.

Pipe installation begins with the installation of an elbow (if necessary) or pipe into the funnel.

Adhesive or rubber seal is required.

Nuance. The lower pipe is inserted into the upper one with a gap of 2 mm. (linear expansion compensation).

The pipe is attached to the wall with a clamp. Which is installed in pre-drilled holes.

If necessary, a system of splitters (tees) is mounted.

The low tide must be mounted so that the water from it does not destroy the foundation of the house. For example, an ebb tide diverts water into a drainage channel or directly into a drainage well.

Installation of a plastic drainage system - video

Installation of a metal gutter system

A step-by-step guide, instructions for installing roof gutters from a metal profile with your own hands.

1. Installation of the two outer brackets.

They can be installed on a rafter system or on a curtain rail (frontal).

Advice. For a normal outflow of water from the roof, the angle of inclination of the gutter towards the funnel should be 3-4 mm per 1 m.

The bracket is mounted on three self-tapping screws.

With a wall length of more than 10 m, a simple (straight) slope is performed. If the length is more than 10 m - double.

2. Cut open the gutters.

The saw site is cleaned with a file.

Advice. The movement of the saw is carried out in the direction "away from you".

3. Cut out the hole for the funnel.

Advice. The hole diameter should be slightly larger than the funnel diameter.

To properly install roof gutters, you need to take care of this even at the design stage of the building. This will make it possible to choose the best option for the system, not only taking into account its cost, but also depending on the engineering features of individual structures. Mainly of the type of gutter fastening, there are options for fixing these elements of gutters to the crate, and there are options for fastening to the cornice board. The production of work consists of several stages, each of which has a significant impact on the final quality of gutter fastening and their functionality.

It is impossible to properly install gutters without preliminary planning. What should you do?

Despite the peculiarities of roofing systems and differences in, there are general installation rules for all types of structures.

Completion of spillways

The complete set and design characteristics of systems have a significant impact on the way gutters are installed on the roof of houses.

What are the main elements of gutters?

Item name	Description and installation features
	They are used for fastening gutters, they can be fixed to the battens (hooks) or to the eaves (brackets). The first (hooks) are made only from a metal strip, bent to give a slope to the drainage system manually during installation. The main feature is the need for installation before the start of roofing work, otherwise the first row of coatings will have to be dismantled. It is now considered an obsolete design and is rarely used. More often brackets are used, which are fixed to the cornice board or the overhangs of the rafter legs. They can be made of plastic or metal. The most modern models have the ability to fine-tune the position of the gutter after fixing the elements to the board.
	They take water from the slopes and direct it to the funnels. They are mounted along the entire perimeter of the building with a slope of up to 4–5 mm per linear meter. They can be round or square in shape, there are options for self-production of gutters. Installation is done after the completion of the roof covering. To protect the elements from falling snow, snow holders can be additionally used, this is an active method. A passive method of protecting gutters from mechanical damage is to observe the difference in height between the continuation of the roof projection and the upper edge of the drainage system element. For correct installation, it is necessary to make preliminary calculations of the roof, the parameters of the gutters are selected depending on the area of the slopes. Simultaneously with this data, you need to calculate the number of funnels. They must have time to pass all the rainwater during peak loads, one funnel per 10 m of the gutter is recommended.
	Most often they have an angle of 90 °, but sometimes they also have an angle of 135 °. To seal the joints with the gutter, rubber or adhesive seals are used. During installation, you should pay attention that the distance from the angles of rotation to the brackets does not exceed 10-15 cm. The strength of the system in these places is lower, a more reliable suspension is required.
	They are installed on gutters and direct the collected water into vertical pipes. Correct fastening is impossible without preliminary calculation; installation of one funnel for every 10 m of gutters is considered universal. But a specific decision should be made after a careful analysis of the area of the slope and the maximum precipitation in a given climatic zone. The funnels can be walk-through (mounted anywhere in the gutter) and left or right. The latter are installed only at the ends of the system; the design has special plugs, which simplifies the installation process and increases the reliability of the entire system.
	They allow you to change the direction of the water flow and connect several system elements to one vertical pipe. They are inserted into a socket-type connection; during installation, you need to pay attention to the direction of the elements in relation to the movement of water.
	During installation, it is necessary to monitor the distance between the fixing points of the elements, depending on the material of manufacture and the diameter of the pipe, it fluctuates within 1.2–1.8 m. The type of fixation to the front wall changes taking into account the materials of its manufacture. Clamps can be plastic or metal.
	They have different lengths, but most manufacturers adhere to the 3 m standard. The diameter is selected taking into account the water debit, the quantity, installation location and total length are calculated even before the start of the installation of the drainage system.

Gutter prices

Gutters

The main mistakes in installing roof gutters

Correct installation of the system guarantees not only high efficiency, but also the durability of the functioning of the drainage systems. Metal products can deform from excessive loads caused by gross violations of the installation technology, and plastic ones crack and require a complete replacement.

What mistakes do inexperienced roofers often make?

Incorrect slope of the gutters. To ensure normal water drainage, it is recommended to make a slope within 3-5 mm per one running meter. If the slope is greater, then at the end of the slope the gutter is too far away from the edge of the roofing and water does not enter it. If the slope is insufficient or the mounting line of the brackets is not straight, then stagnant areas will form. Dust and dirt quickly accumulate in them, then mosses grow, completely blocking the lumen of the gutter. As a result, the gutter system stops working and the gutter needs to be cleaned. It is difficult and time-consuming to do this, and it is not always possible to correct the mistake made. Sometimes it is necessary to undermine the installed roof, which always has negative consequences in the future.
Insufficient number of brackets. All structures are designed for the maximum possible bending load, taking these data into account, manufacturers recommend the optimal distance between the fixation points. For plastic structures, the brackets should be no more than 50 cm apart, for metal structures this parameter increases to 60 cm. You never need to save on the number of brackets, the cost of several elements is incomparably lower than the cost of eliminating negative consequences.
Incorrect coupling of couplings. Due to a violation of technology, leaks appear in these places. Rubber elements or adhesive joints are used as seals. During installation, every effort should be made to ensure complete tightness and high reliability of all connections. Additional brackets must be installed on both sides of the coupling element.
Violation of the recommended spatial position of the gutter. If the plane of the roof continues, then it should pass over the trailing edge of the gutter at a distance of about 20–25 mm. Why exactly these parameters? Only they simultaneously provide a safe, sharp snow melt from the roof and full intake of all rainwater. Decreasing the gap will cause snow or ice to damage the integrity of the gutter, while increasing the gap will cause water to enter the ground rather than into the gutter. Another dimension must be strictly observed - the vertical projection of the edge of the roofing should be located as close as possible to the center of the gutter. The permissible deviation cannot exceed 1/3 of its width. Failure to comply with this parameter also causes rainwater to drain past the drainage system.

Each type of system has its own minor structural differences, but they only affect the installation technology, and the principles are common to everyone.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Video - How to calculate the drainage system?

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Work should be started only after a sketch of the drainage system has been drawn, the fixation points and the number of brackets and clamps have been determined. The sketch contains sections for the installation of funnels and vertical drain pipes with all elbows and couplings. The range and quantity of materials are known, all items are purchased.

Step 1. Refit the funnel of the drainage system, it should be located at the lowest point of the eaves.

Before attaching using a bubble bubble or any level rail, check that the element is in the correct position. Place a level on the roof covering, raise / lower the funnel until its opposite side is set at a distance of ≈ 2 cm from the bottom plane of the tool. Mark the places of fixation of the funnel.

Remember that the protrusion of the roof edge should not exceed 1/3 of the gutter diameter. If mistakes were made during the installation of the eaves (frontal) board or roof, then they should be corrected. The optimal way out is to adjust the position of the board, tear it off and shorten or lengthen the filly of the rafter system.

Step 2... Fix the brackets on both sides of the funnel, the distance between the elements is 2-3 cm.

Step 3. Install the gutter brackets. In our example, they are plastic and are fixed to the cornice board. There is an option for attaching brackets made of metal strips to the crate, they must be installed before the roof is covered.

There are two ways to properly mount the brackets.

First.

Second.

The test thread can be pulled with an emphasis on the upper surface of the brackets. The specific decision should be made on site, taking into account the location of the elements and the characteristics of the roof of the building.

The slope of the brackets is 2 cm by 10 m

Practical advice. Renowned manufacturers offer universal gutter hooks. They are fixed to the crate and have two degrees of adjustment: vertical position and angle of inclination. This allows all position parameters to be inserted after the element has been screwed onto the rafter system and the roof has been covered. Metal hooks are also installed before the roof coverings, but the hooks have no adjustment, the process of correct installation should be done immediately using one of the described methods.

Step 4. After fixing all the brackets, you can start assembling and installing the gutter. It is recommended to cut the elements with an ordinary hacksaw for metal or a grinder with an abrasive disc. Clean the ends with a sharp knife, they are easily cut along the line.

Practical advice. To correctly install the funnel and connect it to the gutters, use a gas lighter to slightly heat the edges of the cut and, while the plastic is warm, bend it in the right place. Such a simple operation will ensure the complete drainage of water from the gutter into the funnel.

On the inside of the funnel there are lines with printed numbers. These marks indicate the optimal position of the ends of the gutters, which corresponds to the air temperature at the time of installation of the elements. Be sure to fulfill this condition. The fact is that plastics have large coefficients of thermal expansion, if the recommendations are not followed, that is, there are risks of swelling or falling of the ends from the funnel.

Important. It is strictly forbidden to stick or use additional sealants to connect the gutters in this type of funnel. Individual elements should be able to move slightly to one side or the other, depending on fluctuations in ambient temperature.

To increase the length of the gutters, special connectors are used, they are glued and snapped on. You need special glue, it is sold complete with a drainage system. The turning corners of the gutters also sit on the glue. A minimum of three strips of adhesive, each approximately 5 mm thick, are required. The couplings slide over the groove and rotate until they click. The distance of the brackets to the angle of rotation is not more than 5 cm. At the points of attachment of the turns, clamps are additionally installed, they increase the reliability and stability of the assembled units, exclude the occurrence of excessive bending loads.

Step 6. Install the plugs on the gutters, they are also glued with a special compound.

There are options when manufacturers use rubber gaskets instead of glue. This method of sealing is less reliable, rubber parts lose their ductility over time and leaks may appear in some places. The use of silicone sealants as a supplement is ineffective. Silicone, under the influence of moisture and negative temperatures, will peel off from the plastic already in the second year of operation of the drainage system.

If the installation diagram of the drainage system assumes the presence of two ends of the gutters on one slope, then their arrangement is carried out in this order.

This completes the installation of the horizontal elements of the drainage system, you can begin the installation of vertical pipes.

Installation of vertical drainage systems

The complexity of the work is that the vertical bends have several corners to connect to the funnel. The number of different turns depends on the architectural features of the building.

Step 1. Measure the distance from the funnel to the wall of the house, select two corners and measure the length of the coupling segments. The missing distance should be increased with a piece of straight pipe. It is cut off with a hacksaw or grinder, the edges must be cleaned of burrs.

Step 2. Glue the top elbow to the funnel, the rest should only be inserted. The upper knee is made non-separable for one reason - it is impossible to screw the clamp in this place, the knee rests only on the funnel.

Step 3. Mark where the pipe clamps are to be attached. There are two ways to do this. The first is to beat off a vertical line along the entire height of the house and drill holes for the clamps on it at the required distance. The second - using a level, mark the installation points of the elements alternately for each clamp, with a level to maintain the vertical position. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, make a decision on the spot, taking into account your qualifications.

Marking the position of the pipe clamps

Step 4. Drill a hole for a plastic dowel, fix the base of the clamp. Work carefully, with excessive force, the plastic can crack, you will have to replace the element with a new one.

If the wall of the house has a layer of foam or mineral wool insulation, then the length of the dowel should be increased so that there is a hole in the solid wall at least 3 cm deep.

Step 5. Insert the pipe into the corner and secure it in position with a hose clamp. Manufacturers recommend installing at least two clamps on one whole piece of pipe, it will turn out about each coupling, two on each side.

The plastic clamps have lettering. The upper clamp is screwed on so that the arrow points to the letter "A" on the stand.

The lower clamp is fixed in position "B", an arrow must point to this letter. The fact is that the holders of the clamps have different thicknesses of the thrust surfaces, the arrow indicates reinforced, it is in this direction that the main forces will act.

If, due to the peculiarities of the size of the building, the connection of two pipes is required, then a gap must be left in the coupling for their free movement. The gap is at least two centimeters wide.

Installation work ends with gluing a knee for supplying water to the blind area, to the receiver of the reclamation system or to a container for collecting rainwater. Then it is used for watering or for other economic purposes.

Video - Correct installation of the drainage system

Roofing from corrugated board is a complex, multi-stage process that requires compliance with many nuances. The roof of any building - be it a modest country house or a capital city structure - consists of a large number of structural elements, each of which needs to be correctly and carefully installed.

If you show negligence and dishonesty at least at one stage of the construction of a roof made of corrugated board, its operation can become a torment for many years. One of the important elements of the roof structure is the gutter, the structure of which we will discuss in this article.

What is a drainage system for and what does it look like?

It is necessary to protect the facade of the house from rain moisture, as well as drainage of water from the adjacent territory, which is especially valuable if a concrete blind area or paving slabs are laid around the perimeter of the house, which over time may suffer from water flows spilled from a height of 6-8 meters. Installing a drainage system will allow rainwater to be subordinated to engineering, so that it will not flow where it has to, but, for example, to flower beds or in any other direction - all at the request of the homeowner.

What is the corrugated roof gutter made of?

The main components are the under-eaves gutter, funnels and pipes for drainage of water as intended. Gutters come in different cross-sectional shapes: mostly rectangular, semicircular and curly gutters, the color range of which can be easily matched to the roofing material. In addition, under-eaves gutters are divided into closed and open: if in the gutters of the first type the funnels are located directly in the gutter, then in the open gutters the funnel is presented independently, as a separate element. Both closed and open gutters have their advantages and disadvantages.

Closed under-eaves gutters look elegant on the building and represent a single, solid structure, although their narrow funnel holes sometimes have to be cleaned of accumulated dirt and leaves. In addition, in rare cases in winter, the drainage channel is narrowed by ice.

Open gutters with separate gutters are characterized by increased passability, however, in this case, it is necessary to ensure high-quality fastening of the funnel to the gutter, otherwise, with strong gusts of wind, the structure will emit a very unpleasant rumble. In individual construction, more and more often, preference is given to closed-type gutters, while cheaper open sub-eaves gutters are more typical of urban high-rise buildings.

Installation instructions for roof drainage

The first step in constructing a drainage system from the roof is to measure its length, which is necessary to determine the number of funnels and, accordingly, spillways. If the length of the roof does not exceed 8 meters, you can limit yourself to one funnel, otherwise the number of funnels must be increased to two. Suppose, for simplicity, the length of the roof is 10 meters, and the installed sub-eaves gutter will have two slopes, starting from the center.

The next step is to measure the height of the house, based on which the length of the pipes for water drainage will be determined. When buying pipes, it is important not to forget about elbows and fasteners - braces designed to hold the gutter, and pipe girths with bolted locks. In addition, for the drainage device, you will need two plugs for the gutter (left and right) and screws remaining from the installation of the roof. The color of the gutters is usually matched to the color of the main roof structure, although exceptions are possible.

As for whether the holders for the gutters should be installed before or after the installation of the roofing, it is not clear: according to the instructions, the gutters are installed first, and only then the roof is covered, and the edges of the corrugated board are adjusted to the drain channel. However, this approach also has its drawback associated with the inconvenience of roofing in the absence of truck cranes, aerial platforms and other expensive equipment.

Another alternative approach is to install a gutter for an existing roof using scaffolding, and this begins by marking the places of the future gutter holders (usually they are located every 0.8-1 m). After that, you need to bend the central holder (for example, using a vise) so that it fixes the sub-eaves gutter almost in the middle relative to the edge of the roof, while moving slightly outward. This arrangement of the gutter allows you to extinguish the flow of water on its outer side, otherwise the water will splash out.

Having determined empirically the angle of bending of the central holder, they begin to prepare the rest of the holders, depending on the length of the roof, each time increasing the bend by 0.5-1 cm (thus, the longest will be the extreme holder, lowered from the center by 3-5 degrees). The same thing needs to be done symmetrically with the other side of the roof, and as a result we get two slopes in opposite directions.

This video presents an easy and quick way to cut and drill multiple gutter holders at once:

The next step is to install the holders and the gutter itself. It is produced like this:

The straight end of the holder is inserted under the roof into the lower wave adjacent to the batten
Using a screwdriver with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, a hole is drilled in the roof and the holder, the holder is connected to the roof with a self-tapping screw, and this operation is repeated for all holders
Slightly squeezing the gutter, insert it into the holder with its lower edge, and after light pressure with a characteristic click, the gutter snaps into place. When working in pairs, it is convenient to insert the chute into several holders at once
When joining the gutters, you need to make sure that the edge that goes down is inserted into the next section of the gutter (this is done so that water, when flowing through the channel, drains from the docking edge, and does not flow under it)
After installing the under-eaves gutters, extreme plugs are installed, fixed for strength with roofing screws

For more information on installing gutter hooks (gutter holders), see this video tutorial:

The next stage of the gutter installation is marking the place for the funnel, cutting the hole and fixing the funnel to the gutter. For this, it is recommended to use rivets or roofing screws shortened with a grinder. Unlike rivets, in the second case, due to rubber gaskets, an absolutely tight connection is obtained, while aluminum rivets loosen in the mounting holes over time, and leaks appear. All the necessary joints, plugs and funnels must be treated with silicone, and this is where the work with the gutters can be considered complete.

It remains to install the spillway pipes and check the operation of the entire drainage system. The main steps for installing spillway pipes are as follows:

Marking of places for installing pipe holders using a plumb line
Drilling holes and installing pipe holders
Alternate installation of the elbows: the upper - into the funnel, the lower - into the upper and then into the pipe. In order to ensure greater rigidity, it is allowed to fix the upper edges of the knees with self-tapping screws
Fastening the drain pipe with locks (in order to avoid splashing on the wall, it is important that the lower end of the pipe is at a distance of no more than 10-12 cm from the blind area)

The last stage of work on the installation of the drainage system on the roof is testing the operation of the drainage using an eggplant with water. If water runs from the center of the roof to the edges, and then into the pipe through the funnel, then the installation of the drainage system can be considered successful.

How to attach a galvanized roof gutter. How to fix the gutter: step-by-step installation instructions. How to fix modern plastic gutters

How to distribute gutters and pipes

Calculation of materials

Installation of gutters

Fastening pipes

Obstacle avoidance

Varieties of modern drainage systems by material of manufacture

When do you have to install the gutters after the roof has been covered?

Gutter prices

How gutter systems are installed along eaves

Types of brackets for attaching gutters

Methods for securing gutters

The first way is to rafters or crate

Video: Installation of a drainage system with edge dismantling of tile roofing

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

The second method is to attach the brackets to the frontal board

Bracket prices

The third method is to attach the brackets directly to the edge of the roof covering.

The fourth way - with an additional long bracket

Parameters of gutters and the angle of inclination of their installation

Gutter prices

Other elements of the drainage system

Installation of the drainage system

Tools required for the job

Metal hacksaw prices

The sequence of installation work - step by step

Types of drainage systems

1. By the method of manufacture - homemade, industrial.

The advantages of plastic gutters:

Disadvantages of PVC gutters:

Advantages of metal gutters:

Disadvantages of metal gutters:

Installation of the drainage system - instructions

The choice of the drainage system

Calculation of the drainage system

The corners of the gutter (external (external) and internal, 90 and 135 degrees).

Drains, connectors, gutter plugs.

Gutter hooks.

Downpipes (for vertical drains), pipe fittings / brackets.

Pipe elbow, drain (drain elbow).

Installation of a drainage system made of plastic (PVC)

Installation of a plastic drainage system - video

Installation of a metal gutter system

Completion of spillways

Gutter prices

The main mistakes in installing roof gutters

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Video - How to calculate the drainage system?

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Installation of vertical drainage systems

Video - Correct installation of the drainage system

What is a drainage system for and what does it look like?

What is the corrugated roof gutter made of?

Installation instructions for roof drainage