Summer kitchen from a metal profile. Summer kitchen in the country. Projects, photos, ideas and recommendations. An example of the construction of an open country summer kitchen

A simple summer kitchen option for a summer cottage is available for any budget and your skill level.

If you wish, the kitchen can be made completely closed, but then you can only use gas and electric ovens in it, and a brazier and a wood-fired barbecue can be placed next to the kitchen.

A simple summer kitchen with a barbecue and barbecue with your own hands.

This summer kitchen option is only used for cooking over an open fire. It includes a barbecue, work table and a canopy sink. The dining area and barbecue are located on the adjacent area.

For the construction of the summer kitchen, the ground was first leveled, a layer of gravel and sand was laid on it, and the pillars were concreted under the support pillars of the canopy.

At the next stage, we lay the tiles on the prepared site. In the area intended for the barbecue, there will be no tiles, it will be with sand, just decorate the edges of the site with curb tiles. Then we lay out the circular masonry under the brazier with refractory bricks.

We install the canopy: first, the support pillars, then we connect them with floor beams, the roof of the canopy slopes away from the site. We sheathe the frame of the summer kitchen with wooden planks.

We cover the brazier with decorative masonry made of natural stone.

We install a slate roof, sheathe the inside of the summer kitchen with a magnesite slab intended for outdoor use. Installing a work table, sink and barbecue.

Such a summer kitchen can be made by hand in just a couple of days off.

Summer kitchen with a bar.

The design of this summer kitchen included a shed for the summer kitchen itself and a pergola for the dining area. The summer kitchen includes an oven, barbecue and eventually a pizza oven.

Using this kitchen as an example, you can see that a summer kitchen with your own hands can be built in several stages. At the first stage, everything is being built, except for the pizza oven, which so far is only in the plans, but there is no ability to build it and the means to hire a master to build it. It was postponed for the next year.

The order of work is standard - we level the site, concreting the pillars under the supports, laying a gravel-sand cushion on the site, and paving the site.

Because the summer kitchen is located in a quiet corner of the garden, then they decided not to close it on three sides, but to make only the rear blank wall. Simple laying of their cinder blocks forms the work surface. The table top was made of wooden beams.

The very process of building such a kitchen is not very laborious and any summer resident can afford such a summer kitchen project.

A simple summer kitchen near the house with your own hands.

Unlike summer residents, the owners of a private house have a serious plus - they do not need to go anywhere and the construction process can be more calm and measured. The construction of this kitchen began with the paving of this beautiful area in front of the house with natural stone combined with cobblestone. When the site was ready, it was decided that it could also be used for a summer kitchen next to the house.

First, the pillars were concreted under the canopy supports and installed. The entire kitchen will be made of concrete slabs and support platforms will also be concreted under them.

In order to make a concrete countertop, they made a formwork, covered it with foil, and put reinforcement. The places for the sink and barbecue were marked with containers of the corresponding sizes. After the concrete had hardened, the formwork was removed and the edges sanded.

We are erecting a working table for our summer kitchen from concrete blocks, bringing the water inlet to the place intended for the sink.

Our summer kitchen with our own hands is almost ready - a sink is installed, on the right side of the countertop there is a place for a barbecue, in the lower left part there is a place for a barbecue.

Additionally, a storage cabinet was built next to the summer kitchen.

This is where the pillows from the furniture will be stored, which will be in the dining area.

We covered the roof of the summer kitchen with transparent polycarbonate, finished the decorative fence around the kitchen to give the building a more finished look.

A simple and beautiful DIY kitchen can really be made inexpensively and easily.

But what a pleasure it is to enjoy your dinner outdoors in the garden!

Do-it-yourself summer kitchen next to the gazebo.

A small shed next to the main gazebo can be turned into a small summer kitchen.

Styled wooden furniture made from scrap materials will add a relaxed atmosphere of comfort to this corner of your garden.

If necessary, you can host a large enough company here - you just need to put up a large table.

So a simple canopy next to the gazebo can turn it into a dining area for a summer kitchen.

Summer kitchen with a do-it-yourself stove.

If you know how and love to cook in the oven, it is not necessary to follow the general fashion for barbecues and barbecues. Add an extension to your gazebo, make a stove in it - and you have a wonderful summer kitchen, not like the others.

By the way, grill and barbecue may well find their place in your summer kitchen.

This option is great for areas with cold summers, where while you are standing near the stove it is warm, but when you sit and dine, you want comfort, not refreshing coolness.

You already have a gazebo - it can be used as a dining room on cooler days. And for summer days, you can simply install a table between the house and the gazebo.

For the barbecue itself, an ordinary canopy tied to a gazebo and a small work table next to it for cooking will be enough for you.

So, if you are creative about what you already have, then it is not necessary to build a new free-standing structure for a summer kitchen. By smartly adding small elements, you can significantly increase the functionality of existing buildings.

A simple summer kitchen with your own hands can be built with a very modest budget, you just need to turn on your creativity and it can be built quickly and inexpensively.

If you have approached this process wisely, then you can always expand, complete and improve your summer kitchen.

Do you agree that a simple summer kitchen with our own hands is within the power of each of us?

Take a steam bath in the house in the summer, if you can spend time outdoors? Not a good idea. And cooking or spinning is even worse. It is much more pleasant and useful to spend time under a canopy or in a light, ventilated building, which many call a "summer kitchen". A do-it-yourself summer kitchen is easy to build, especially open options.

Open summer kitchen: views and photos

An open one is rather an open gazebo or veranda. A very good option for the warm season. Not in all regions, even in summer, you can be outdoors for a long time. Then they make closed summer kitchens - this is already a small house that can be built using any technology that seems most attractive to you.

Summer kitchen - annex

Let's start with open areas. If it is supposed to move the main activity to fresh air for the summer, it will be more convenient to attach the summer kitchen to the existing house. In this case, do. Most often, they make it open first. The easiest way is to make a wooden extension. In a very open version, these can be simply pillars supporting the roof.

The simplest option is a few pillars supporting a light roof - a do-it-yourself summer kitchen is ready

This option is very good for the southern regions, where most of the year you can stay outside for as long as you like. For more northern regions or if it is a permanent residence, it is usually decided to make the extension more closed. First, they make a railing, and then they often think about how to close the spans with something else: I want to extend the "period of use". As a result, the open summer kitchen becomes closed.

The most common material for this kind of extension is wood. She is flexible, forgives many mistakes, which can later be corrected without analysis of the structure, therefore it is easy to work even without skills. It is also lightweight, because the foundation for a summer kitchen made of wood can be made lightweight - columnar or

The second most popular material is brick or decorative stone. In the presence of "straight" hands and adherence to technology, and with this material, amateur developers can work. You should not undertake the construction of a house without experience, but you can try to fold the pillars and partitions under the summer kitchen.

But since even a pillar made of brick or stone weighs more than a hundred kilograms or more, a more solid base is required for it. If you consider that it will still take the load from the roof, then you will have to make pillars or piles with good bearing capacity.

Carrying out to the side of the house - an open terrace with an oven and barbecue

If you are thinking about putting brick walls later, it is better to immediately fill in the pile-strip foundation, and deepen the tape below the freezing depth. If this option is not suitable - the freezing depth is large or the soils do not allow, you will either have to make a monolithic slab, or abandon brick walls, making them using a different technology, even if they are of the same tree or a summer kitchen built with your own hands is good because knowing all design features to the smallest detail, you can subsequently upgrade the building.

Freestanding building

Some people don't really like the kitchen smells that can enter the house from the extension. Then a small building is erected at some distance from the house. The presence of summer kitchens is almost an obligatory attribute of private houses in the southern regions. Before the era of air conditioners, cooking in the heat in the room was a real torture: the high temperature "overboard", heated walls, and even the heat from the stove - conditions are hellish, while the rest of the rooms are also heated. That is why they made at least small detached houses-gazebos, in which they put a gas stove and a cylinder with liquefied gas in cities, in the villages they put a small stove. Some even cooked on "kirogas" or a kerosene stove.

Modern climatic technology makes it possible to negate all these inconveniences, but detached summer kitchens are still being built. They are often still used as a guest house - by making them.

The cheapest option is roof support pillars. They can be wooden, brick or combined - consisting of a base of stone, and the top of a bar. This is the best option from the point of view of operation: the wood is protected from the effects of most of the precipitation, and at the same time the weight is not very large.

One of the easy options

What to make the floor of

The floor in such a kitchen can be planked. It is easier to do it, but many are confused by the fact that the wood will be practically unprotected. There are two ways to solve the problem. The first is to use effective protective impregnations such as oils or wood wax for outdoor use. They do not create a shiny surface, but they protect well from moisture and dirt. Using varnishes for summer kitchens is not the best idea. They begin to burst and crack, in order to renew the old coating, the old must be removed completely, while oils and wax require only thorough preliminary cleaning, after drying, a fresh layer can be applied.

This terrace is treated with Pinotex Terrace Oil

The second way is to use not wood, but wood-polymer composite (WPC). These are boards that consist of a mixture of wood fibers and polymers. They look and feel very much like wood. With the only difference that they almost do not change size depending on humidity, however, thermal expansion is present. Such boards are called "decking" or "planken" depending on the profile of the board. There is also "garden parquet". This is a covering made of the same material, only assembled into boards, like parquet. They can be simply laid on the ground without any preparation.

The terrace and the floor in the summer kitchen are made of WPC - wood-polymer composite

The advantages of WPC include a long period of operation without changing the original properties. It is calculated for tens of years, but varies greatly depending on the manufacturer. The downside is not the most affordable price. Perhaps this is due to the fact that the technology is relatively new, not yet fully mastered, although there are also Russian manufacturers of such products.

Stone or specialized tiles withstands the effects of weather better, but the installation of such a floor is not an easy matter. If you just put it on a gravel-sand bed, locking it in the fall, in frost the tiles can crack or bounce. We have to make a monolithic insulated slab, observing all the technology: with a sand and gravel layer, insulation, reinforcement, concrete pouring. The dimensions of this slab are 50-60 cm larger along the perimeter than the planned building. In general, the costs and work are serious, although it is convenient to operate.

One floor option is large concrete slabs of high grade concrete

After a time when the concrete gains strength (at least 2 weeks should pass, and this is at an average temperature of + 20 ° C), the coating can be laid. You can use flagstone - stone cut into layers, you can use porcelain stoneware, or frost-resistant tiles.

A simpler option is to lay out the site with paving slabs. But this is an exclusively summer option. But - without fiddling with the foundation.

If a summer kitchen is being built with your own hands in the country, this is perhaps the best option. It turns out inexpensive and practical.

Closed summer kitchen

Those who want to have an all-season summer area for gatherings or cooking, erect more capital buildings. Most often, these are buildings using frame technology - quickly and relatively inexpensively, more expensive, but more thoroughly - from a log or bar.

Option "frame" - racks from a bar sheathed with clapboard

In the case of a frame building, everything is very simple: with a small step, racks from a bar are placed (you can even spliced boards), then they are sheathed on both sides with some kind of finishing material. What - of your choice, even a clapboard - wooden or plastic, a blockhouse, any other material. Inside, to save money, they are often sheathed with plywood, fiberboard, gypsum fiber board, OSB or something similar. If desired, it can be insulated. The frame is sheathed on one side, insulation is laid (usually mineral wool), the sheathing is mounted on the other side. You can insulate not only immediately, but after some time, you only have to remove the trim on one side.

What does the "skeleton" of a summer kitchen look like using frame technology

The frame building is also convenient in that it can be given any shape, and the foundation can be relatively light - depending on the soil - pile or tape. Such foundations are also needed for wooden buildings - from a log or a bar. All the rules are the same here. It is important to find or order a project, but assembling is a matter of technology.

Naturally, you can build from any other materials - from foam blocks - to bricks or even rubble. It's all about the amount that you plan or can spend on this building. The construction of foam concrete, aerated concrete, some building blocks, adobe will also cost inexpensively. A cinder block, like adobe, can be made independently, so the choice of material is only yours, and then everything is built according to all the rules. With only one deviation: insulation for a summer kitchen is either not done at all, or made to a minimum. Another point - heating, as a rule, is absent, and this must also be taken into account when choosing materials for construction, and for decoration.

Photo report of the construction of a summer kitchen with an open veranda

A summer kitchen was being built with the opportunity to “sit outside”. Therefore, the option with an open veranda was chosen. The base of the house is assembled from a bar of 200 * 200 mm, internal walls - from 150 * 100 mm. Outwardly, I like the carriage, but it is godlessly expensive, because the timber was suspended to create a similar relief.

The foundation is columnar. Since the construction is light, the soil is normal, the posts were buried only 60 cm.

The harness was assembled from a bar 200 * 200 mm. It was pre-soaked with an antiseptic. The corners were connected as usual - they made cuts. The crossbars were mounted on metal U-plates. The timber was not rigidly fastened, since there will be heaving all the same, so that the building has the opportunity to "walk".

The racks were made from a bar of 200 * 200 mm, the inner filling was from 150 * 100 mm.

The walls were assembled pretty quickly and without problems: there was no cut, just pieces of timber of the required length were nailed to the racks. The roof is made of a gable, with a slight slope angle. On the one hand, the extension of the rafter legs is greater - in order to make a canopy from the side of the veranda, which will also cover from the slanting rain.

The ceiling lining is made of unedged boards, which were then brought to mind on our machine.

Ceiling lining - board

Summer kitchen design: photo

After the construction of the summer kitchen, another problem arises: it is necessary to arrange it. The arrangement includes not only the choice of a table and chairs, it is also necessary to somehow organize the working area, store the fuel somewhere for the stove, which is often placed here.

Happy owners of suburban areas have an excellent opportunity not only to plant potatoes, but also to enjoy outdoor recreation, away from the bustle of the city. Someone cannot imagine their vacation without a noisy company of friends with a barbecue or barbecue in addition, someone is more pleasant to spend time in silence or reading a book. The arrangement of a recreation area in the country depends, first of all, on the purpose that it will fulfill, and on the size of the site itself.

A standard plot of 6 acres significantly limits the imagination. A spacious gazebo or complex architectural forms cannot be built here.

But we will try to create a multifunctional structure in combination with a summer kitchen. In this article we will tell you how to build a summer kitchen with your own hands.

Tools for building a summer kitchen in the country

Decent power woodworking machine. Dry planed wood costs three times as much. If you have time, you can process the wood yourself, if you have extra money - buy ready-made.
Timber chain saw It is better to use a light, electric one.
Jigsaw. The more powerful the better.
Screwdriver
Drill
Belt sander for edging.
Electric planer
Circular hand saw
Hacksaw
Brushes

Materials for the construction of a summer kitchen

Beam 100 × 100
Boards 25 mm thick
Waste oil
Roofing material
Paint or Pinotex
Linoleum
Nails
Self-tapping screws
Stapler and staples

Preliminary calculations showed that the size of the building of 3 × 4m will be quite enough so as not to occupy all the free space of the site.

The basis of our construction will be a frame made of 100 × 100 timber. This is the most optimal, inexpensive and reliable solution. After cutting to the required length, each element must be planed on the machine and planed with a planer. It is necessary to process not only the visible parts of the structure, but also all other parts, having abundantly soaked them with used oil.

This procedure is not carried out because of the economy - the oil protects the wood from decay, therefore, the structure itself will last for more than one season. The ends, the most vulnerable point, must be smeared several times while the oil is absorbed. It is better to take the oil itself relatively light. Before starting work, try on a piece of wood to make sure you have the right shade.

As a foundation, I used ordinary sand concrete blocks. A small hole must be dug under each block and covered with sand. We also pour sand around the blocks themselves. It makes no sense to make a solid foundation cushion.

We connect the ends of the timber in the simplest way - in half a tree. To do this, mark 100 mm (after jointing a little less), remove half in thickness, then connect with nails. Be sure to fasten the joints from the inside with corners on long self-tapping screws. The corners should be large enough: you can buy special ones, with a stiffener, or simply cut with a grinder from any available metal.

This method provides sufficient strength and stability of the structure. The frame can be safely lifted around the corner, if suddenly some part settles due to the lack of a foundation. In spring, light buildings often "walk", sometimes they have to be leveled a little.

If you want to save money, it is better to buy ordinary boards and plan yourself. The price difference is enormous. Day work and boards in perfect shape. We saturate the lower side and ends with used oil before laying, but the top of the boards after the end of the work. To speed up drying, you can slightly dilute the oil with turpentine.

The frame itself is erected from the same timber. With correct calculations, it should turn out almost without waste, given the standard length of 6 meters (in reality, about 6.2 meters). A height of 2 meters will also be sufficient if calculated individually.

I decided to complicate the roof a little. A lean-to on such a small structure would look bad. An ordinary gable with a ridge does not look very nice either. I had to tinker a little, but I did without a skate. I decided to use metal tiles as a covering.

Roof lathing. For the lathing, I used 25 mm boards, also planed on the machine. It is better to soak them in advance on the ground, so as not to turn your head up later. Impregnation is all necessary for the same reason of protection from decay. In addition, paint adheres much better to treated boards and requires less paint. But I decided that I would not paint the ceiling additionally. The structure of the tree looks quite decorative anyway.

The next stage is the installation of the lathing. First of all, an ordinary roofing material is spread on the roof, overlapping, as expected. It is advisable to immediately make waterproofing in case of rain. It is not so expensive, besides, when installing metal tiles, there are leaks in places where a self-tapping screw is screwed in. Considering the small thickness of the boards, I did not use branded self-tapping screws with gaskets - the ends would stick out very aesthetically.

We sheathe the walls with the same boards. Initially, there were thoughts about the lining, but I had to abandon it for a number of reasons. As you know, it is much thinner, less durable, and the price is much higher. A more frequent frame is needed under the lining; you cannot screw the same shelves onto it in the selected places, because during construction it is difficult to determine what and where will have to be placed.

But the boards also have their drawbacks. The board, no matter how tightly it is nailed, dries out over time, cracks form. In heavy slanting rain, a little water flows inward. I solved this problem as follows: sheathed the frame with linoleum in the color of the tree and secured it with staples and a stapler.
It turned out quickly and conveniently. But this procedure can only be performed next year. Initially, the boards fit almost perfectly on the machine.

In the end, we ended up with the following:

It is advisable to coat the floor with working off before winter. In summer, this cannot be done - it dries for too long, even taking into account turpentine. Indoors, this method is not suitable - the smell lasts for a long time, and the fumes are not very useful. But in the open air they are not felt at all! Further painting does not take much time, but I decided to leave the floor in this state for the winter, since the paint can peel off due to snow and rain.

So, our building is ready. Inside there is a summer kitchen with a sink in the dug-in barrel, several shelves for children's toys, and even a computer. More than 10 people are comfortably seated at a folding table during the holiday. Everything is under a roof, but at the same time - in the fresh air. Nearby there is a barbecue so as not to go far.

In such a summer cottage kitchen, you can have breakfast and dinner until late autumn, because you can stay at home in the city as well. And then nature is around, the birds are singing ...

Arrangement of a summer kitchen in the country gives a lot of positive moments. First, outdoor cooking turns the routine into a pleasant pastime. Secondly, for the period of mass harvesting of canned vegetables, compotes and preserves, you can get rid of fumes and odors in a country house. And third - if you equip the summer kitchen with your own hands, then in the future you will not have to look for a place for evening gatherings with relatives and weekends with friends.

Summer brick kitchen with do-it-yourself barbecue

Special aroma and appetizing appearance of dishes prepared on B-B-Q, will be appreciated by both adults and children. For the summer cottage, you can buy a factory structure that allows you to cook food on a grill, however, a brick-built summer kitchen with a barbecue oven can serve not only as equipment for frying meat and fish, but will also become the central figure of the country recreation area.

We present to your attention a barbecue oven by E. Gudkov, which you can build with your own hands. It combines all the advantages of a grill and a hob with a hotplate. Using the detailed instructions, in which the drawings and ordering are given, it will not be difficult to fold such a stove with your own hands.

Oven project for a summer kitchen. Photo

Construction of the foundation of the summer kitchen

The design proposed for repetition has an impressive weight, so the arrangement of a good reason for it is imperative. To build a slab foundation, you need concrete reinforced with metal mesh.

Materials and tools

Our building is not so responsible as to use high-quality and expensive building mixtures, therefore, M200 grade concrete will suffice. For its preparation, you can use the following ratio of building materials:

1 hour - cement grade 400;
4 hours - crushed stone or coarse gravel (fraction 30 mm);
2 hours - coarse river sand.

Make sure that the content of impurities in the sand does not exceed 10 parts of its volume, and in rubble - a value of 2%.

Using the proposed proportion will require the following consumption of building materials per 1 cubic meter. m. of concrete:

Cement M400 - 325 kg;
Sand - 1.3 t
Crushed stone - 1.3 t
Water - 205 liters.

To strengthen the foundation, you will need a mesh frame made of class A3 reinforcement. Starting to mark the base, add 20 cm to each side to the dimensions of the future furnace. With a building size of 1.4 × 1 m, a foundation measuring 1.6 × 1.2 m is laid out.

Summer kitchen foundation project. Photo

When starting to pour the base, prepare:

narrow, round and square rammers;
scraper, trowel, trowel;
a probe for removing air bubbles from the mixture;
shovels for soil and mortar;
trowel;
a board for fine leveling the surface.

How to lay concrete correctly

In order to build a solid foundation, it is imperative to consider soil features Location on. Water-saturated, swelling, peaty and other specific soils will require additional strengthening before arranging the base for the furnace.

To mark out foundation, it is enough to drive the pegs into the ground, check the diagonals and pull the cord. In this case, the dimensions of the pit for the tiled foundation must correspond to its size (in our case, 1.6 × 1.2 m). Since the building is intended for outdoor use, the ground under its base will freeze and thaw in winter. Therefore, in some cases, a sand cushion up to 1 m thick may be required.

It will be correct to protect the bottom and walls of the pit when arranging a sand cushion geotextile, which will prevent erosion of the base by groundwater. Ramming is performed in several stages. To do this, add sand every 10-15 cm, which, after compaction, is additionally shed with water.

For the purpose of waterproofing and in order to avoid leaks of concrete into the sand, two layers are laid on the prepared place roofing material... Further along the contour of the pit, every 0.5 m, racks for formwork boards are driven in and fastened with slopes. They fix and moisten the formwork.

Before pouring concrete, perform the installation fittings, for which a grid is installed at a height of 20-30 mm from the bottom over the entire surface of the foundation. Then, using vertical bridges, a second reinforcing belt is installed at a distance of at least 20 mm from the upper plane of the foundation slab.

They try to pour and compact the concrete in one go. In this case, the solidity of the structure and a certain period of concrete hardening will be ensured.

A prerequisite for high-quality concreting is to maintain optimal humidity, so the foundation is covered tarpaulin... After 3 - 4 hours after pouring, they cover the surface of the base of the furnace with sawdust or sand. The concrete is moistened with water for 1 - 2 weeks, until the foundation is completely set.

The formwork is removed only when the corners of the structure acquire sufficient strength. The construction of the furnace can be started no earlier than two weeks after the concrete work.

Construction of Gudkov's barbecue oven

To erect the furnace body you will need fireclay refractory or red clay brick in the amount of 465 pcs. Refractory material is preferred because it can withstand elevated temperatures with ease. If you decide to use ordinary ceramic bricks, then make sure that the material is properly fired. Cracks, voids, insufficient firing are unacceptable. Not suitable for barbecue ovens and sand-lime bricks.

In addition, you need to prepare the following oven parts:

a cooking stove with one burner measuring 500 × 420 mm;
grill 500 × 420 mm for barbecue;
sheet metal 600 × 500 mm;
door for removing soot 140 × 140 mm;
blower door 140 × 270 mm;
loading door 270 × 250 mm;
grates 300 × 200 mm;
metal corner with shelf length 32 mm, thickness 4 mm - 4 pcs. 500 mm each and 6 pcs. 600 mm each;
steel wire OE2mm - 10 m;
asbestos cord OE5 mm - 10 m.

Masonry mortar

When building a kiln, bricks are laid on a clay-sand mortar using plastic varieties of red clay and coarse sand sifted on a sieve. The ratio of materials is chosen, depending on the fat content of the clay:

add to 1 tsp of oily clay - 2.5 tsp of sand;
for 1 hour of medium clay - 1.5 hours of sand;
for lean clay, the ratio is 1: 1.

You can determine the degree of fat content of clay by the content of sand in it:

from 2 to 4% - oily;
up to 15% - average;
from 30% - skinny.

To prepare a working mixture, the clay is soaked for 1 day, and then, gradually stirring, add sand to it. To prepare the solution, you can also use special high-temperature prefabricated mixtures, which can be found in the retail network.

Furnace body

It is best to start work on the furnace with the construction of a temporary canopy, under which it will be possible to work in any weather. To avoid mistakes during installation, the body of the building can be laid out dry.

Construction begins with wetting the brick. Red ceramic bricks are immersed in water for one or two minutes, and fireclay bricks are rinsed from dust.

Laying bricks is performed with bandaging the seams in half a brick, observing the thickness of the seams from 3 to 5 mm (the lower value is for refractory material). It is important that chips and cracks on the surface do not face the inside of the working chamber or chimney.

As the installation progresses, you will need to install oven appliances. To ensure the reliability of the structure, a wire is attached to the metal parts of the furnace, which is embedded in the masonry. Since metal and ceramics expand in different ways when heated, it is imperative to make a thermal gap of 3 - 5 mm, which is subsequently eliminated with an asbestos cord.

Ordering

After the level of the combustion chamber is completely removed, a brazier or metal grate is installed on the corners comfort plate.

Metal corners are also used as a support when arranging a vault. The chimney can be 270 × 140 mm, 270 × 270 mm and 400 × 140 mm. To reduce the formation of soot on the inner walls of the chimney, they are plastered.

For finishing the barbecue oven, plastering, pasting with tiles or tiles, as well as simple jointing are used.

After the summer kitchen with barbecue is built, do not rush to test the oven at full capacity. To avoid cracks, the stove must be heated with small portions of wood for a week.

Do-it-yourself summer kitchen in the country. Step-by-step instruction

The proposed design of the summer kitchen combines a hob, a small Russian oven, and work surfaces that provide additional convenience in the cooking process. Installed under a canopy made of boards or polycarbonate, the open kitchen will take over all the responsibilities of preparing all kinds of dishes and seaming in the summer.

Summer kitchen project. Photo

The main materials that will be needed for construction:

cinder blocks;
red or fireclay bricks;
finishing materials;
formwork.

Having chosen a place for future construction, they begin to draw up drawings and calculate the amount of materials. The step-by-step instructions below will help you organize all the stages of building a summer kitchen.

The foundation for a summer kitchen. Photo

Foundation construction

Having marked out the pit for the foundation with the help of pegs and a cord, they begin excavation work. Having reached the depth of the pit of 35 cm, its walls are strengthened with formwork boards, and the bottom is covered with a 5-cm layer of gravel and compacted.

Equip two-layer armored belt made of metal mesh and vertical steel rods. Make sure that the reinforcement does not touch the boards, and after pouring it was protected with a layer of concrete with a thickness of at least 20 mm.

After pouring, the concrete is compactedvibrating screed, cover with foil and leave for 2 weeks until complete setting.

DIY summer kitchen. Step-by-step instruction

Hull masonry

Laying begins from the corner, constantly controlling the geometry of the rows and corners using a level and a plumb line.

To shift the rows by half a brick, the laying of the second row begins with a bandage.

Having passed two rows, they equip the blower by mounting its door into the front wall. In the overlap of the working space, a grate is installed above the blower, and the combustion chamber door is installed one row higher. The combustion zone itself is made low, one or two rows of bricks above the loading hole, otherwise the flame will not reach the stove with combs.

The furnace body is erected at a height that is convenient for further operation.

Do-it-yourself summer kitchen in the country. Photo

After completing the masonry, the seams are filled with mortar and smoothed with a float.

Tabletop installation

Arrangement of the working surface begins with the laying of support rods from steel reinforcement... Formwork is mounted on them, which is poured with concrete.

After the concrete has set, the worktop is finished with flagstone, carefully leveling the individual fragments and the gaps between them. At the final stage, the walls of the summer kitchen are plastered or revetted with heat-resistant finishing materials.

Choosing a stove for a summer kitchen

Of course, in the summer kitchen, you can install an electric stove or a gas stove powered by a bottle of liquefied gas, however, truly delicious dishes are obtained in a real wood-burning stove. In the carefully heated space of a miniature Russian stove, you can cook hot dishes in cauldrons or bake surprisingly aromatic pies and pizza.

There are many articles written about how to put the stove in a summer kitchen. Our design uses the simplest scheme of a Russian stove. For its construction, a semicircular vault with a side channel is performed, which is led out into a common chimney.

Do-it-yourself oven for a summer kitchen. Photo

How to make a stove for a summer kitchen. Photo

The outer cladding of a wood-burning hearth can be made of sandstone, carefully adjusting the fragments of the trim to each other. After that, the seams are filled with mortar and smoothed with a spatula and a float.

Summer kitchen roof

After the oven and the working area are equipped, they begin to equip the roof of the summer kitchen. To maintain the style in which the proposed construction with a wood-burning stove is built, it is best to make a gable roof.

The roof of the summer kitchen with your own hands. Photo

For this, a frame made of a wooden bar with a size of at least 100 × 100 mm is installed around the working space, after which an overlap is made of wooden boards, metal tiles or other materials.

Summer kitchen design and finishing options

When equipping a summer kitchen, I want to get not only the functionality and convenience of an open working area, but also a beautiful structure, designed in the style of other buildings and structures of the summer cottage. A kitchen located near the house can be placed on a large veranda adjacent to one of the entrances. A well-equipped barbecue area will eliminate the need to install a portable grill. Ornamental plants and shrubs are planted around the summer kitchen. If there is a need to shade structures, then all kinds of arches and props are used. A pergola installed near the summer kitchen will provide the necessary shade on hot days and create a secluded corner for leisurely conversations and get-togethers with friends.

Summer cuisine. Photo

In the process of creating an optimal working area, the main thing is not to overdo it with decorative elements. It is important to understand that, after all, the main purpose of the summer kitchen is cooking, therefore, if you want to cook on it every day, then you will not be able to do with one barbecue. We'll also have to install an electric, gas or wood-burning stove. It will be difficult without other benefits of civilization, so the work area is complemented by a sink, all kinds of cabinets and shelves.

In the fresh air, not only the appetite is stronger, but the food is absorbed much better. In warm weather, you don't want to sit indoors at all. Winter preservation is also easier to do outside. In the article we will tell you how to build a summer kitchen for a summer house with your own hands, demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photo and video instructions.

Choosing a type

All types of summer kitchens can be classified into two categories:

open;
closed.

Closed kitchens resemble a small house-like structure, which often does not have much insulation. The advantage of such a solution will be protection from insects, better protection from bad weather, as well as from the wind. An open kitchen option on one or more sides can be protected with a fabric, wood or other wall. The advantage of such a solution will be a greater unity with nature. Among the open types of buildings, there are options:

With barbecue. In this case, you have the advantage of cooking your favorite dish over an open fire. The barbecue will be available in any weather. If you additionally mount the oven, then you can please your friends with pizza.
With a gazebo or pergola. It's nice to sit among the greenery. This is exactly the solution in which the entire structure will eventually be shrouded in grapes, ivy or other climbing plants.
Carport adjacent to the house. The easiest way to build. Requires the least investment. But there is a negative point. When cooking, all steam and smoke will go towards the house. This can damage walls or other finishing materials.

Preparation stages

Once you've chosen one of the possible options, it's time to create a small project.

Choosing a location. It is good when there is an opportunity to place the kitchen in a cozy garden, where a pleasant atmosphere of tranquility reigns. At this stage, it is necessary to take into account the proximity of the location of various communications. They will definitely be needed. Electrical appliances will need wiring. When preparing food, you cannot do without water and after that you need to put it somewhere. Do not place the building close to driveways and roads. Then your meal will not be spoiled by unpleasant odors. If there is a toilet on the street, then it is better to leave it as far away as possible.
We dwell on the material for construction. If you are planning a closed kitchen, then you can approach it like a frame building, in this case you will need wood. A good option would be a building made of foam blocks or bricks. The open one will most likely be made of wood, or one or two of its walls will be of the material that was listed earlier.
We decide on the roof. On an open structure, soft tiles will look great, but this is a rather expensive solution, although it cannot be ruled out, because the roof area will be small. A good option would be metal or corrugated board. Perhaps, waiting for your turn, you have sheets of slate or ondulin - they will also work.
It is also worth considering in the project what equipment is planned to be purchased for the summer kitchen.

Foundation

A summer kitchen is usually thought of as a lightweight construction. This means that the foundation can immediately protrude and the floor, and, perhaps, pouring is not required at all.

First, you need to clear the selected area from all debris and vegetation.
A small layer of top soil is removed.
One of the corners of the future building is marked with a wooden peg or a metal rod. Next, three more elements are installed. To position them correctly, it is necessary to measure the diagonals for identity. A fishing line or strong twine is pulled between them, which will serve as a guide.

If the building will consist of a canopy, then after these steps you can proceed as follows:

The entire perimeter of the marked site is dug to a depth of 30 cm.
The bottom is leveled and compacted.
Sand is poured inside with a layer of 10‒15 cm. It is also leveled and well rammed.
The remaining space is filled with screenings and the final leveling is performed.
Next, on our "cake", which has been prepared, paving or other tiles, which are intended for the street, are laid. This can be done on a dry cement mortar, which, after spilling with water, will fix the entire base well.
Pits are dug at four corners, their depth should be at least 50 cm. Formwork is installed inside. A crate is made of reinforcement, which will be the basis of a reinforced concrete structure. It fits inside and is filled with solution. With the help of a vibrator, the whole mixture is rammed. While the concrete has not yet hardened, two metal plates are inserted in the middle, to which we can fix wooden pillars that will support the walls and roof.

This option of the base will be relevant in the case when the soil is dense enough. In cases where groundwater can approach very close to the surface or displacements of the upper layer are noticed, a more solid foundation must be provided. Also, if you plan to finish building a stove or barbecue on such a foundation, then separate concrete supports will need to be laid for them.

In order to make a foundation slab, we need to take the first three steps from the previous instructions. Next, we take on the following:

Cooking 8 pieces of reinforcing rods. Four of them should be 10 cm shorter than one side of the future structure, 4 others 10 cm shorter than the other. If the building is square, then they will all turn out to be the same size.
We lay four of them according to the shape of our future structure and fix them to each other. Then, every 40 cm, we tie longitudinal and transverse jumpers. Prepare the second mesh in the same way. We connect the two gratings with jumpers to such a height that the future slab rises above the surface by at least 5 cm.
We lower the entire structure into the middle of the dug hole, install the formwork and fill it with concrete. We ram with a vibrator. We level it with slats and let it stand for several weeks.
In fresh concrete around the perimeter with a step of a meter, you can place metal plates on the width of the future timber for the walls. Or it can only be done in the corners.

It is very important that the floor is above the ground. Thanks to this, rainwater will not flow. It is also good to make a slight slope of the floor so that rainfall, which will be carried by the wind, can flow freely into the drain or simply through the door.

In the case when it is planned to build a closed kitchen made of brick or foam block, this version of the foundation may be enough. Also, for these needs, you can build a shallow or columnar tape foundation. In this case, such a large-scale excavation is not carried out.

A trench is being dug to a depth of 50 cm along the entire perimeter of the future kitchen. The width will depend on the thickness of the walls. In any case, the foundation should be 10‒15 cm wider.
A layer of sand is poured onto the bottom, which is leveled and spilled with water.
A metal base-lattice is made according to the principle as in the previous instruction. She fits into a trench.
Formwork is installed with the expectation that the future foundation rises 20-30 cm above the ground.
Fill with cement mortar, ram and level it. Let it stand for 2-3 weeks.

The supply of all communications must be carried out in parallel with the laying of the foundation, so that later you do not have to hammer holes in it or dig under it. To prevent the pipes from being clogged with mortar, they must be closed in advance with a cloth and plastic oilcloth.

Open kitchen

This option can be built most quickly. We have already laid the foundation and support for the supports. If you plan to close the kitchen on one or both sides with walls made of bricks or other material, then the first step is to start building these partitions.

At the corners of the future walls, we dig a metal square pipe or profile 50 × 50 mm into the ground. We set it up by level. We do this so that the planks are close to the masonry. They will guide us.
Pull the fishing line between them. We raise it to the height of the first row of bricks that will be laid. We set it up by level.
We prepare a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 3. This will be sufficient for our purposes.
We make laying, focusing on the stretched fishing line, and also periodically recheck ourselves with a level.
As soon as the first row is completed, raise the line for the next and so on until the very end.
In order for the structure to be more stable, a reinforcing mesh can be laid in the seams.

If you do not plan on having walls of this nature, then the process will be much easier.

We fasten a beam to the metal plates that we laid during the manufacture of the foundation, which will serve as a support. When the whole structure is of great length, then it is necessary to foresee in advance the need to install 3-4 pillars on one side. Their length should be equal to the height of our building, and the dimensions of the sides should be 15 × 15 cm or 15 × 10 cm.
We set them in level so that they are strictly vertical. The beams of one wall must be longer so that we can organize the roof slope.
We immediately reinforce our posts with the upper strapping. It can be made from the same logs. We fix it with metal corners.
To give more stability to the entire structure, you can install two jibs near each post. They can be fixed to the support with self-tapping screws, and to the base with an anchor bolt.
We mount beams for our future roof. In order for them to better hold in the places of their abutment to the harness, it is better to perform cuts. We fix it with metal corners.
We make a crate under the flooring, as recommended by the manufacturer. We lay the roofing material.
To create more comfort, one side (or more) can be sewn up using a wooden lining or a block of house. On the other, make a wooden lattice. You can equip supports for climbing green plants.

In the case when it is planned to build a pergola, after laying the ceiling beams, nothing else needs to be done. They can be stained or varnished. Further, the plants themselves will do their job, creating a shade, when they fully grow.

Closed kitchen

At the design stage, it may have been decided to erect walls from a foam block or brick, then this can be done according to the principle with the installation of vertical landmarks, which was mentioned above. The walls may not be too thick. In some cases, laying in half a brick is allowed. But always consider the weight of the future roof. In the future, the outside of the building can be sheathed with siding or a block house. For interior decoration, a house block, lining or other material that will be frost-resistant is also suitable, because it is unlikely that someone will constantly heat the room on purpose in winter.

A timber is laid on the walls, which will act as a Mauerlat. Its size can be 10 × 15 cm. It is fixed with anchor bolts or studs, which must be bricked up during the construction of the walls. Under it, it is imperative to lay waterproofing in the form of roofing material or bikrost. A rafter system is installed on the logs. It can be for both a gable and a pitched roof (for this option, it will be enough to make one wall higher than the other, then beams are simply installed between them). The lathing is mounted on the beams and the roofing is laid. The ceiling is hemmed from the inside.

You can go simpler and stop at the wireframe version. For it, we need beams of the same size as for the vertical columns from the instructions for an open kitchen. We make the foundation out of them. We lay them around the perimeter of our foundation on two layers of roofing material or bikrost, which will serve as waterproofing. We make a bandage between them. To do this, at the edge of each log, there is a depression half the depth and width equal to the width of the log. Checking the diagonals. We fix them together with self-tapping screws and internal metal corners. Next, we fix it to pre-prepared plates or anchors to the foundation.

We mount corner support posts from the same timber. With a step of 60 cm, we install additional vertical supports from a board measuring 10 × 5 cm.For greater rigidity, we fasten the jibs for each main support. We carry out the top strapping and install the rafter system for the future roof. We do this by analogy with the open kitchen option.

Home stretch

Even if a barbecue or a stove is planned in our kitchen, this does not exclude the presence of a gas or electric stove, which are much more convenient to use. It is necessary to take care of the installation of the sink, mixer, as well as the support for the dishes on which it will dry. It is good if there is a cabinet in which you can hide cutlery, as well as pots. You need to take care of the dining table, as well as comfortable furniture on which you can relax. For greater comfort, it is better to carry out the main and decorative lighting.

For an open kitchen project, it is best to ensure that all lighting fixtures are preferably IP68 rated. In this case, you do not have to worry about any elements being damaged by rainwater.

Don't go casual about your summer kitchen project. Let it be, in a sense, a design decision. After all, it will serve not only as a place for eating, but also as a recreation area with family and friends.